Finnsailer 34 Owners Manual

OWNERS´S

MANUAL

FOR

FINNSAILER
34

OY FISKARS AB

FINNSAILER 34
Owner´s Manual
Contents: Technical Specification
The Factory
Standard Standing Rigging
Standard Running Rigging
Extra Equipment
Self-tacking Jib and Furling Genoa Arrangement
Deck Fittings
Sails
Engine and Accessories
Fuel System
Steering
Fresh water
Toilet
Cooker
Zinc
Electrical System
Instruction for Upkeep of Glassfibre Reinforced Plastic
Boat Hull
1. New Boat
2. Used Boat
Repair of a Fibreglas Boat
1. Surface Cracks
2. Air Bubles
3. Fissures
4. Cavities
5. Entirely Blistered Bottom
6. General Scratching
7. General
Commissioning the Boat
1. Keyes and Locks
2. Starting and Stopping Procedure
Checkings to be made Weekley
Launching and Docking
Storage during Winter
Piping Diagram
Electrical Diagram

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
LOA 10,40 m
Length incl. bowsprit 10,90 m
LWL 8,36 m
Beam, max. excl. rub. strake 3,45 m
Draft 1,58 m
Displacement 6700 kg
Sail Areas:
Main 24,0 m2
Jib 14,0 m2
Genoa (optional) 33,0 m2
Mizzen (optional) 7,3 m2
Fuel Tank Capacity 200 litres
Fresh Water Tank 150 litres
Engine: Perkins 4.108 38 kW (51 BHP) / 4000 rpm
Indirect injection
Bore 3.125 in (79,37 mm)
Cubic capacity 107,4 in3 (1,76 litres)
Number of cylinders: 4
Hurth mechanical gear box. Reduction 2,14:1
Propeller Shaft: Acid proof 35 mm, length 1220 mm
Propeller: 2-blade bronze, right-handed 17”x11”
Alternator: 55 A / 12 V
Batteries: 1 starting battery 12 V / 100 Ah
1 for general use 12 V / 100 Ah
Instruments: >Finnsailer 34 specification
Rudder: A GPR rudder blade
Rudder stock of acid proof steel
Steering: Edson steering pedestal with brake
THE FACTORY Oy Fiskars Ab Boatyard was the first yard in Finland and
Scandinavia expressly built for volume production of
glassfibre reinforced plastic boats. We have a long history
of fruitful cooperation with Lloyd´s Register of Shipping,
who have approved our works, materials and methods.
All Fiskars boats are produced by hand laying up techniques
in GRP moulds. This is the bes way to ensure that the
finished products has the even, predicted glassfibre
distribution and glass content the designers have intended
and on which the Lloyd´s approval is based.

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FINNSAILER 34 Sloop
Standard Standing Rigging
No Part Pcs Particulars Code / Type
1 Mast 1 Length 12440 mm Selden 160/132
2 Spreader 2 Length 1000 mm Selden
3 Boom 1 Length 4350 mm Selden 128/90
4 Backstay 1 Length 13790 mm ∅ 7x19
+ rigging screw 1/2 Hasselfors 800 55
5 Upper shroud 2 Length 11700 mm ∅ 7x19
6 Lower shroud back 2 Length 5440 mm ∅ 7x19
7 Lower shroud fore 2 Length 5420 mm ∅ 7x19
8 Inner forestay 1 Length 10620 mm ∅ 7x19
9 Fore stay 1 Length 12790 mm ∅ 7x19
10 Hallliard winch 2 Genoa and Main Barlow 16
Halliard
11 Reefing winch 1 Main Barlow 16
12 Cleat 7 165 m/m Selden 511-015

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FINNSAILER 34 Sloop
Standard Running Rigging
1 Genoa Halliard 2 Shackle Selden 307 005
St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m
Braided polyester rope
14 m ∅12 mm
2 Main Halliard 1 Shackle Selden 307 005
St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m
14 m ∅10 mm
3 Jib Halliard 1 Shackle Maritim 180308
26 m ∅6 mm
4 Topping lift 1 Shackle Selden 307 001
St. wire ∅ 4-133, 13 m
14 m 12 mm
5 Self-tacking jip sheet 1 Braiden polyester rope
19 m ∅12 blue
1 block Lewmar 9117
1 block Lewmar 9127
6 Kicking strap 1 Braided polyester rope
10 m ∅10 mm
1 block Lewmar 9157
1 block Lewmar 9187
7 Fitting Shackle 5/16 Maritim 180308
Shackle 5/16 Maritim RKS-08
8 Genoa Sheet 2 Braided polyester rope
2x18 m ∅12 mm blue
9 Reefing Line 2 Braided polyester rope
10 m and 14 m ∅10 mm
10 Main Sheet 1 Braided polyester rope
28 m ∅10 mm
1 block Lewmar 9157
1 block Lewmar 9187

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FINNSAILER 34 Sloop
Extra Equipment
1 Mizzen mast 1 Length 8300 mm Selden 121/92
2 Spreader 2 Length 850 mm Selden
3 Mizzen Boom 1 Length 2200 mm Selden 85/58
4 Upper shroud 2 Length 7970 mm ∅ 5x19
5 Lower shroud 2 Length 4020 mm ∅ 5x19
6 Topping shroud 1 Length 12230 mm ∅ 4-133
7 Backstay 1 Length 9000 mm ∅ 7x19
+ 2x4190 ∅ 6x19 wire
+ 2 rigging screws 7/16
8 Mizzen topping lift 1 Shackle Selden 307-001
17 m ∅6 mm
9 Mizzen Hallliard 1 Shackle Selden 307-005
St. wire ∅3x133 8,5 m
10 m ∅10 mm
10 Halliard winch 1 Mizzen Barlow 16
11 Kicking strap 1 Braided polyester rope
9 m ∅10 mm
1 block Lewmar 9157
1 block Lewmar 9187
12 Mizzen sheet 1 Braided polyester rope
15 m ∅10 mm
1 block Lewmar 9157
1 block Lewmar 9187
13 Flagg-staff Selden
14 Stay sail haillard 1 Shackle 1/4 R Maritim 6553
18 m ∅10 mm

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15 Halliard winch 1 Stay sail Barlow 16
16 Stay sail sheet 1 Braided polyester rope
10m ∅12 mm
17 Furling genoa gear 1 Reefkit Rotostay type E
Length 13,180 mm ∅7 mm
18 Genoa sheet 2 See standard running rigging
19 Spinnaker pole boom 1 Length 4000 mm Selden
20 Halliard winch 1 Spinnaker Barlow 16
21 Spinnaker halliard 1 Braided polyester rope
28 m ∅12 mm red
Snap shackle Lewmar 5112
Block Lewmar 9117
22 Boom lift 1 Braided polyester rope
16 m ∅10 mm red
23 Spinnaker sheet 2 Braided polyester rope
16 m ∅12 mm red
24 Downhaul 1 Shcackle 5/16
Block Lewmar 5217
Braided polyeste rope
14 m ∅12 mm red

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FINNSAILER 34
SELF-TACKING JIB AND FURLING GENOA ARRANGEMENT
1 Block 5 Single with universal head Lewmar 9117
2 Block 1 Single and becket with
universal head Lewmar 9127
3 Block 2 Single with universal head Lewmar 9217
4 Self-tacking jib sheet 1 Braided polyester rope
19 m ∅12 mm blue
5 Genoa sheet 2 Braided plyester rope
18 m ∅12 mm blue
6 Furling genoa gear 1 Reefkit
Length 13.180 mm ∅7 mm Rotostay type E
7 Furling genoa adjustement 1 Braided polyester rope Rotostay
∅8 mm

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FINNSAILER 34
No Part Pcs Material Product No / Type
1 Bow fitting 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.021-83M2
2 Bowsprit 1 Teak TuVe 356.011-78M2
3 chain plate 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1
4 Sheet fitting 3 Stainless steel Tuteka
5 Deck hatch 2 Al. frame+acryl GEBO 500x500
6 Slider 1 Al. Hack anodis FICO 1165
7 Jib sheet track + 1 Al silver anodis FICO 1169 – 1500
7 Track end stop 2 PVC FICO 1176
7 Sliding track stop 2 Al. black anodis FICO 1177
8 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.055-58T2
9 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1
10 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.055-58T2
11 Sheet track 2 Al. silver anodis Vaassen B-9006-2500
11 Track and stop 4 PVC Vaassen B-19006
12 Traveller 2 Al. silver anodis Vaassen A-5428
13 Windscreen wipers 3 Wiper 155021581
14 Boom seating 1 Teak TuVe 356.054-41MA4
15 Hand rail 1+1 Al. silver anodis Jokova
16 Scupper 2 Chrom. brass
17 Genoa sheet winch 2 Chrom. bronze Barlow 24 (Lewmar 40)
18 Cleat 2 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-21
19 Chain plate 2 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.022-55R1
20 Aft pulpit 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.025-18Li3
21 Navigation light 1 Stainless steel Hella
22 Fore pulpit 1 Stainless steel Tuteka 356.024-85Ma2A
23 Navigation light 1+1 Stainless steel Hella
24 Fairlead 4 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-13B
25 Cleat 4 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-24B
26 Hatch fastener 1 Stainless steel Tuteka
27 Anchor box hinges 2 Chrom brass Nicro 1691
28 Fender rail PVC black (rail)
29 Life line Stailess / PVC
5/8 and 3/4 Niiniranta
30 Ventilator 5 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-30
31 Deck waste fitting (extra) 1 PVC PAR 38101-0000
32 Mast foot 1 Al. black anodis Selden
33 Signal horn 1 Chrome brass Fiam SIMO TP/NCL 12V
34 Filler screw 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-17 water
35 Ventilator 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-31
36 Tank ventilator 1 Chrome brass Maritim 14-04
37 Filler screw 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-17 fuel
38 Sheet winch (spin.) 2 Chrome brass Barlow 16 (Lewmar 8)
39 Cleat 2 Al. silver anodis Jukova V-21
40 Mast foot (mizzen) 1 Al. black anodis Selden
41 Bathing steps 1 Al. silver anodis Jukova 356.038-49T2
Teak steps

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FINNSAILER 34
SAILS Finnsailer 34 is fitted with sails made by Neil Pryde. Self-
tacking jib, which is standard, facilitates sailing and makes
tacking pleasant.
Mainsail is fitted with jiffy reefing and jiffy reef locks on
boom make reefing easy and fast.
Furling genoa and mizzen are optional.
You should see to it that reefing an change of sails are made
in time as too big sails lead to a heeling of the boat and
unnecessary strain on the rig.
When the sailing season is over, check the sails carefully,
carry out repairs required as well as the general service of
the sails.

OY FISKARS AB
FINNSAILER 34
ENGINE AND ACCESSORIES
Engine is the well-known Perkins 4.108 M diese engine,
max. BHP 51 (38 kW)/4000 rpm with a Hurth mechanical
gear box, reduction 2,14:1. Further particulars in the
engine handbook. The engine is flexibly mounted.
The shaft is of 30 mm dia SIS 2324 acid proof steel of
high tensile strength.
The bearing nut should be tightened when gland start
to drip. Use tool provided. Do not over tighten as the
will lead to overheating gland packing. It is actually
better to allow a drop of water to enter every now and
then than to tighten to complete dryness.
A flexible, dry tube is used for the first part of the
exhaust line. It is heat insulated, and runs to a
standpipe silencer made of steel. The cooling water is
injected into the silencer, and the outer part of the
exhaust line is therefore of synthetic rubber. The
skin fitting is of steel, with a stainless steel
exterior ring.
A strainer is fitted to the cooling water inlet
seacock. It should be checked from time to time. See
checking routine lists. (Drawing No. 356.017-68R1).
Use the following greases in all the boats made by Oy
Fiskars Ab Boatyard that are equipped with Perkins
engine:
Engine: Rotella SAE 10-30 W
Coupling: Donax T 6
Hydraulic steering control Tellus 23
Prop shaft stuffin box: Retinax A
All these oil qualities are made by Shell.
If you use some other manufacturer´s oil, please
notice that the corresponding qualities that are found
in the comparison tables, should be used.
FUEL SYSTEM Finnsailer 343 is fitted with a stainless steel fuel tank
of 200 l, situated on starboard side in the cockpit. The
filler fitting is on starboard side deck.
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The tank is fitted with an overflow tube and an inspection
cover. This contains outlets for fuel gauge transmitter,
heater etc. The fuel supply is 8 mm Aeroquip 2556-6 or
similar approved type hose, with a CAV fuel filter, fitted
the the SB side of the engine room bulkhead. The return
pipe is of 8 mm nylon.
The boat is also equipped with an electric blower the
engine and battery room.
Some countries require special valves and fuel supply tube
materials, in which case the above-mentioned parts are
changed.
STEERING Finnsailer 34 is fitted with Edson steering pedestal. The
steering is mechanical and the brake is in pedestal. The
rudder angle is limited by stops fitted the radial drive
wheel. The rudder blade is made of GRP and the rudderstock
of acid proof steel.
FRESHWATER The boat is equipped with a stainless steel water tank,
capacity 150 litres. The tank is filled from the deck on SB
side, through a deck screw marked “WATER”. Filling hose is
1 1/4” hose of approved type.
A PAR 6950 pressure water pump as well a Raritan calorifier
are fitted as standard. The calorifier is fitted below the
cockpit on port side.
TOILET A Lavac marine toilet is fitted as standard. The outlet
tubes are fabric-reinforced plastics. Spherical valve is
used as shut-off valve. A waste tank can be fitted as
optional extra.
COOKER A 3-flame liquid gas cooker with oven is standard
equipment. The gas bottle has its own compartment in the
anchor box.
The gas pipes are made of copper and carefully installed.
At each end of the copper pipe there is a flexible tube,
which is joined with tube clamps to the copper pipe system.
These tubes should be carefully checked each year and
replaced at once should there be any cracks, or at least
replaced every five years. You should also check the
tightness of the clamps from time to time, since even a
small leak will lead to an accumulation of poisonous and
volatile gas in the bilge.
The cooker is equipped with an automatic flame
extinguisher. The gas bottle and its installation are in
accordance with the requirements of the Finnish ordinances
and official regulations.

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In case of the gas bottle and its installation are
discordant with the ordinances of the future homeland of
the boat, the owner will be responsible for the cost of the
changes required.
To adjust the flame in the oven, dismantle the bottom
plate. On the left side at the rear you will find the
adjustment socket.
If the flame dies out, or the flame is small and unstable,
excess air is supplied to the burner. Decrease air inlet.
If the flame is yellow, too little air is supplied to the
burner. Increase air inlet.
ZINK In order to prevent corrosion of the underwater metal
parts, the boat is fitted with a zinc. The zinc is fixes to
the propeller nut.
It depends on the local circumstances how long the zinc
will last. It should always be checked and replace if
required when the boat is taken out of water. 3 months
should be the maximum period between checking’s.
N. B. The zinc must never be painted!

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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Finnsailer 34 is fitted with an electrical system based on
a 55 A/12 V alternator. One 100 Ah battery is provided for
consumption, and one 100 Ah battery for starting the
engine. The main switch of the batteries is to the right of
the main companionway.
As the starter battery is separated from the other battery,
it can only be used for starting the engine. The boat is
equipped with an automatic alternator system charging the
batteries while the engine is running.
After the engine is started, the charging light should go
out. The ampere meter shows the amount of charging current
fed to the batteries. The emptier the batteries are, the
farther on the +-side the ampere meter goes. When the
batteries have been charge up, the meter returns to 0-
position.
When leaving the boat, the main switches must be turned
off.
Directions for care of the batteries:
1. Keep the batteries and the area around them clean and dry.
2. Remove the lids of the filling holes of the batteries and
clean out the air openings.
3. Check the amount of accumulator fluid and add distelled
water if needed. The level of the fluid should always be
kept a little above the upper edge of the battery plates.
Do not overfill the elements, since excess acid will run
out of the air openings, and corrode the area around the
batteries. Use only distilled water. Never use fire when
checking the batteries, since the mixture of oxygen and
hydrogen, which develops when the battery is charged, is
very volatile. Never move accumulator fluid from on element
to another.
4. Check the tightness of the cable clips at the poles of the
batteries.
5. Grease the clips and the poles with Vaseline to avoid
oxidizing.
6. Make certain that the batteries are secure on their stands
and will not move when the boat gets out into the open sea.
7. The batteries are ventilated. Check the there are no loose
odds and ends closing the air holes.

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR UPKEEP OF GLASSFIBRE FEINFORCED PALASTIC (GRP)
BOAT HULL
The boat owner’s care of his boat is essential for
maintaining the quality and value of the boat. The
following measures are of vital importance as regards the
underwater part of the boat:
1. New Boat
- washing
- roughening or grease removal
- removing of dust
- painting with primer
- painting with antifouling
Instructions
Wash the underwater part of the bottom with warm water
water with washing powder in. Use brush.
The best result is achieved by roughening with fine emery
paper. (e.g. Esso Covar).
In case of roughening, remove the dust with aceton. Use
plastic gloves, and remember that aceton is dangerous for
health and flammable.
The next step is painting with primer in accordance with
factory’s instructions. Primer is used to ensure that
antifouling adheres properly to the oyt surface of the
hull. Primers are usually chloric rubber basic.
The last thing to do when primer has become dry, is
painting with antifouling according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. Antifouling is used to protect the bottom of
the boat against harmful microorganisms and to prevent
water from penetrating into the laminate. Use chloric
rubber basic antifouling for hard surface, which is easy to
polish. Do not use antifouling containing copper as this
contributes to corrosion. Apply preferably two layers of
antifouling. Observe the factory’s instructions of how long
it will take to dry, and how soon the boat may be launched.
See to it that the conditions correspond to those required
in the instructions. Do not forget to treat also the parts
under the support of the cradle.
2. Used Boat
Take the boat on land 6 month after launching and wash the
bottom with warm water and soft brush. For polishing, wash
also the part of the hull, which is above the waterline.

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When the boat has become dry (in room temperature this
takes one week, and outside in a dry place if temperature
is under 10°C four weeks), brush off the peeling
antifouling with hard brush. If required, paint the
originals surface with primer. After that, paint with
antifouling according to the instructions given above.
N. B. When removing antifouling do not use lacquer or colour
removers.
If there are scratches or other damages on the surface of
the hull, they must be repaired before further treatment.
Follow the repairing instruction below.
In countries with cold winters, it is preferable that the
boat is stored on land. It should be taken out of the water
sufficiently early to have enough time to dry up, or other
wise the laminate may be damaged if there is water inside
and it freezes.
Make sure that there is no water in the bilges. Rainwater
and especially soap water are harmful – oil and grease are
not. Repair the damages on the inner surface in the same
way as those on the outer surface.
N. B. Remember to wash, wax and polish also the part of the
bottom above the waterline. Car wax may be used. Renew
waxing twice during a sailing period. When doing this, you
can be sure that the exterior surface of your boat looks
like new still after many years.
REPAIR OF A FIBERGLASS BOAT
1. Surface Cracks
Dry the crack and clean it carefully. Put masking tape on
both sides of the crack. Mix about 4% of catalyst and later
about 2-4% of accelerator in and appropriate quantity of
gelcoat. These can be mixed in a glass jar, a tin dish or a
pasteboard case. Fill the crack with gelcoat up to the
tape, remove the tape and let cure. Grind with a file or
smoothing plane-iron, make smooth with water sandpaper Mo.
400 and polish with Farecla paste.
2. Air Bubbles
Even up the edges of the bubble and clean them carefully.
Draw masking tape round the hole. Take suitable quantity of
gelcoat and mix 10-15% of colour paste and catalyst and
accelerator (as mentioned in para 1) with it. Fill the hole
almost to the edges with this mixture, and let cure. Add
one more layer of gelcoat to the tape level,

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remove the tapes and let cure. Make smooth and polish as in
para 1.
Very small bubbles may be directly filled with gelcoat and
immediately covered with tape. When the gelcoat has
stiffened, the tape can be removed and the surface can be
ground.
3. Fissures
Make the edges thinner from the inside of the boat,
about 5 cm in both directions, and grind an area of
some 5 cm in breadth. Take 4-5 pieces of fibreglass
mat, the first one should be 5 cm wide, the
following pieces should all overlap the preceding
layer by 5 cm. Take a sufficient quantity of
gelcoat, mix with catalysts as mentioned in para 1.
Put the mat pieces on a cardboard or plywood and
saturate them carefully with gelcoat, and hand-lay
the pieces with a brush. In order to get a durable
result, you should absolutely check that there is no
air between the layers. When the gelcoat has cured,
grind with coarse sandpaper and paint with topcoat.
The outside of the fissures should be mended as
described in para 1 or 2.
Wash the brush immediately after use with acetone.
4. Cavities
Make the edges thinner and grind an about 5-10 cm wide area
from the inside. Grind the area where the mat is to be
laid, too. Apply a mould-shaped plywood, plate, fibreglass
or gelcoat sheet outside the cavity, and keep it tightly in
place against the boat. Take a suitable quantity of
gelcoat, mix with the catalysts as mentioned in para 1.
Paint the hole and let dry. Take 4-5 pieces of the
fibreglass mat, the first layer should overlap the edges of
the hole by about 5 cm, and the following ones overlap the
preceding layer by about 5 cm. Take a sufficient amount of
gelcoat, mix with catalysts as mentioned in para 1.
Saturate the pieces carefully with gelcoat on a cardboard
or plywood sheet, put them on the cavity and hand-lay with
a brush. When this has cured, grind with coarse sandpaper
and paint with Nortop interior paint. The sheet that has
been used as mould on the outside can be removed. Make
smooth with a file grind with water sandpaper No. 400 and
polish with Farecla paste.

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If the cavity is big you should not take more gelcoat at a
time than can be used during 20 minutes, to avoid getting
hardened gelcoat in the jar.
5. Entirely blistered bottom
Before you start repairing, make sure that the temperatrure
in the room where the work is done is at least +18°C, and
that there is not dust, draught or moisture. The bottom of
the boat must be absolutely dry. The repair is done as
follows:
- sanblasting or grinding
- application of gelcoat
- puttying
- dust removal
- spraying of polyurethane colour paint
- Painting with antifouling
Remove the old gelcoat by sandblasting or grinding. You can
do this outdoors before the laminate has become dry.
The best gelcoat is neopenthylglycol basic tixotropic air
drying resin, which is normally hardened in accordance with
manufacturer’s instructions. You can spray it apply with
brush.
When gelcoat is dry, putty with tixotropic polyester paste,
which is hardened in the same manner as the gelcoat. Use
rubber spatula.
When grinding, use first rough grinding paper and finish
with fine grinding paer (e.g. Norton No. 180).
The best way of removing dust is to clean the hull
carefully with vacuum cleaner. Do not forget to clean also
the grinding dust from the floor so that it does not stick
to the hull.
Spray the urethane colour paint in accordance with the
factory’s instructions, preferably by spraying 2-component
colour paint.
Pain the bottom with antifouling according to the
instructions given above in connection with the treatment
of a new boat.

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6. General scratching
Use the same methods as for entirely blistered bottom.
Grind the surface and remove all dust carefully. Spray with
urethane colour paint in accordance with instructions given
above.
7. General
About 20°C is a suitable temperature for fibreglass
work. The room must not be moist. Wash the tools
with acetone. Use goggles when you mix the
stiffeners. The catalyst and accelerator must not be
mixed together, it might start burning or explode.
Al plastics need their own catalysts and
accelerators recommended by the manufacturer.
COMMISSIONING THE BOAT
1. Keys and Locks
You will have noticed that the locks are of different Abloy
types, with keys that fit all locks on board. A code number
is given to you with the keys, which you have to use when
ordering new keys. Normally though, the yard will have
recorded your key codes, so there is still a chance that
you can get a replacement key even if you loose your last
one. For maximum safety, note your key code here:
.................................
2. Starting and Stopping Procedure
To start the Perkins 4.108 M engine, follow the starting
procedure outlined in the Perkins handbook. The following
procedure is based on Perkins instructions:
- Before starting, you will switch on the electrical main
switch.
- Check that the cooling water seacock is open. It is
required by many insurance companies, and in fact also
by prudence, that all seacocks are be shut when leaving
the boat. Therefore, make it a matter routine always to
check the seacock. In a new boat also check cooling
water taps in engine block.
- Check heat exchanger for cooling water level. Top up if
needed.
- Check engine oil level. Check gearbox oil level.

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- When you left the boat should have turned the stern
gland grease press until resistance is felt. Check the
resistance in press and turn if necessary.
- Check fuel oil level on the gauge. The fuel level must
not be close to zero, as this increases the risk of air
locks in the fuel system. Make yourself familiar
- with the way the fuel gauge works and what the readings
mean in actual fuel reserve. This you can do when
filling up the first time if you do it in known
increments and not the corresponding readings.
- Operate engine room blower for a minimum of 2 minutes.
- Check oil pressure gauge to see that it gives a reading.
- Check ampere meter for reading and the charging light
should go out.
- Check gear oil pressure warning light: should be off.
- Water temperature reading should slowly rise, but reach
normal level only after casting off.
- Check that cooling water comes out with exhaust.
When manoeuvring your Finnsailer 34 for the first time,
remember that the propeller is turning clockwise and thus
the stern will pull BB when you reverse. This can be used
to your advantage, because it will help you to land in
restricted places. If you approach with your BB side
towards the quay, the final reverse will not only stop the
boat, but also pull your stern in towards the quay.
If you will leave the boat, you should turn the stern gland
grease press until resistance is felt. This will stop the
gland from leaking.
Close seacocks and pump out bilge water, close main switch
when leaving the boat.

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CHECKINGS TO BE MADE WEEKLY
- Check the battery fluids
- Check the running and the standing rigging
- Check the general condition of sails
- Check the navigation and mast lights
- Check the windscreen wipers and the signal horn
- Check the gas bottle
- Check the seacocks
- Check the bolts of the engine mount
Further, it is advisable to check the following
points:
- Seawater filter
- Bolts of the propeller shaft flange
- Points mentioned in the handbooks of the engine and
accessories
LAUNCHING AND DOCKING
The boat is usually launched or docked with the help of a
crane. It should be remembered that especially a wet
glassfibre boat is very slippery. The cables should be at
least 20 m long to keep the angle of list suitably small.
The cables should be attached to the fastening bollards of
the boat in such a way as to keep them from sliding
longitudinally when the boat is lifted. When the crane has
tightened the cables, pieces of board should be placed
under the cables at the edge of he deck to protect the
fender rail from pressure damage. After this the hoisting
may begin. The boat should be lifted in a horizontal
position and both cables should have equal loads.
The boat having been docked, its bottom should be washed
and possible weeds and shells scraped off. Only wooden
scrapers should be used, as harder ones may damage the
glassfibre plastic surface. When the bottom has dried it
should be checked thoroughly. If the boat has run aground
or touched bottom, this may have left scratched which
should be found out and repaired before the boat is
launched again.

OY FISKARS AB
After launching, check the alignment of the propeller shaft
and the fastening of motor and rudder shaft while propeller
shaft is rotating.
STORAGE FURING THE WINTER
The boat is shored in a straight upright position, either
on its docki9ng sled or on specially made trestles. The
important thing is to let the weight of the boat rest on
the keel, not on the side of the boat. The bow should be a
little elevated, to make the bile water collect in the
stern.
When the boat is well shored up, it should be emptied of
loose equipment. Cushions and curtains should be taken away
to dry. To clean the inside of the keel in its entire
length you should take away a necessary amount of floor
boards. At the same time you should empty the water pipes
under the floor. The space should be left open for airing
during the winter. The fuel tanks should be filled up
completely to prevent water from condensing on the inside.
The fresh-water tank should be emptied, as also the toilet
bowl and pipes. The fresh-water pumps should be removed for
cleaning and dry storage. If they are left in the boat,
make certain that they contain no water.
All bottom and side valves should be opened and it should
be checked that all water leaves he pipe system.
The deck fittings should be thinly greased with Vaseline to
prevent them from oxidizing.
The care and maintenance of the engine during winter is
described in detail in the manufacturer’s directions for
the use of the engine. These should be followed in order to
keep the engine in good condition.
The batteries should be removed and take to a battery
service for the winter.
If the boat is to be left in the open air for the winter, a
roof of covering should be made for protection. It should
also be ascertained that all the nooks and crannies of the
boat are adequately ventilated. This will help to avoid the
damaging effects of damp on the interior of the boat

Finnsailer 34 Owners Manual

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Finnsailer 34 Owners Manual