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1. DEVELOPMENTS IN
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY
FINISHES FOR COTTON
FABRICS AND GARMENTS
R.B.Chavan
Dept. of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology,
Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1
2. PRESENT CONCEPT
POLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE
WOMB TO TOMB
NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY
RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL
MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS
ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO
LABLES
GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS
EVEN AT HIGH COST
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 2
3. COTTON DOMINATES
READILY AVAILABLE
AFFORDABLE PRICE
HYDROPHILIC
COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL
CLIMATE
BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 3
4. CONVENTIONAL COTTON
CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY
USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS
DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS
RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY
PROCESSES
WATER POLLUTION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 4
5. ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING
FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER
CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)
RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED
DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF
CULTIVATION
COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS
ORGANIC COTTON
GREEN COTTON
NATURAL COTTON
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 5
6. NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME
PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR
COLOURS
NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE
LOW STAPLE LENGTH
INFERIOR STRENGTH
POOR SPINABILITY
REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON
CULTIVATION
NOT TO BE DYED
ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING
DYEING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 6
7. ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO
MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE
PRODUCT
VALUE ADDITION
IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 7
8. IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON
EASY CARE/DURABLE
PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
SOFTENING
ENZYME/BIO FINISHING
WATER PROOF BREATHABLE
FINISHING
SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES
UV PROTECTION
EMERGING FINISHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 8
9. EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE
FINISHING
CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE
AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS
AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE
TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT
TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING
IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY
LOSS IN STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 9
10. PROCESS ROUTE
FABRIC FINISHING
PRE CURE
POST CURE
GARMENT FINSIHING
DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 10
11. PRE CURE PROCESS
PAD DRY CURE
· MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR
FABRIC FINISHING
· UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF
CHEMICALS
· BETTER PROCESS CONTROL
· CARRIED OUT AT MILL
LEVEL
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 11
12. POST CURE PROCESS
PAD DRY AT MILL LEVEL
• SENSITIZED FABRIC
• TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT
• GARMENT MAKING
• PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES
• CURE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 12
13. STEPS
PAD (60-70% PICK UP)
DRY AT 70oC, 8-10% MOISTURE
CONTENT
SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY)
GARMENT MAKING
GARMENT PRESSING
GARMENT CURING 150-160 oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 13
14. PRECAUTIONS
PRE FINISHING STAGE
GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)
FREE FROM SIZE
HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH
SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER
50% LOSS ON FINISHING
USE MERCERIZED COTTON
ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS
FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 14
15. PRECAUTIONS
TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING
• CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED
• FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR
• MANY STORE UNDER
REFRIGERATION
• SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE
THAN 3 MONTHS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 15
16. FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM
MERITS
PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT
DESIRED PLACES
NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING
GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING
MINIMIZED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 16
17. POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED
CAREFUL SELECTION OF
SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS
STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT
FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM
OFFERS ONLY ONE CHANCE
ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE
RECTIFIED
RESIN STRIPPING AND
REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE
DAMAGE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 17
19. DIP PROCESS
DIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT,
M:L :: 1:5)
WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED
ROTATE FOR 20 min.
HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP)
TUMBLE DRY AT 70oc, MOISTURE CONTENT
10-12%
TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT
IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES
CURE AT 150 oc – 160 oc for 8-10 min
EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 19
20. TUMBLE METHOD
PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING
MACHINE DRUM
SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY
APPLICATION
ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min
TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING
OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT
IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR
ADDITIONAL TIME
HYDROEXTRACT
OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 20
21. IMPORTANT FEATURES
M:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1
TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30
rpm
TUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD
NOT EXCEED 70 oc
MOISTURE RETENTION AFTER
DRYING 10-12%,
IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRY
LOAD SIZE 50 Kg.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 21
22. CHEMICALS USED
CROSS LINKING AGENT
LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU
EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER
CATALYST
MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID
WETTING AGENT
HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION
IMPART HAND
IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE
AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE
IMPART SOFT HAND
IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY
SILICONE ELASTOMER
IMPART SPRINGINESS
IMPROVE STRENGTH
ACRYLATES
IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 22
24. FINISHING STAGE
AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD
NOT BE < 10%.
LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH
GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH
SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED,
LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN
STRENGTH
1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS
FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE
UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10%
EXTRA RESIN
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 24
25. GARMENT STAGE
STONE WASH AND OTHER FINISHES ARE
GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE FINISH
USE LOWER (I50oc) FOR WHITE GARMENTS
TO AVOID YELLOWING
POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES,
SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS
SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH
CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 25
26. QUALITY CONTROL
PHYSICAL TESTS
DRY AND WET CRA
SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING
%RESIN ADD-ON
TENSILE STRENGTH
ABRASION RESISTANCE
DIMENSIONAL STBILITY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 26
27. CHEMICAL TEST
Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE
HYDROXIDE)
PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED
GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)
· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE
· PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION
PUT COVER SLIDE
· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE
· RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE
· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS
RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 27
28. SWELLING RATING MEANING
NONE 5 FULLYCROSS
LINKED
SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS
LINKED
MODERATE 3 MODERATE
CROSS LINKED
MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS
LINKED
HEAVY
HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED
RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED
DISSOLVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 28
29. ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS
MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS
LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED
(DMeDHEU)
EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE
RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING
DRYING AND CURING,
GARMENT STORAGE AND USE
WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF
IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH
ENVIRONMENT
KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS
EFFECTS
ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 29
30. CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM
DMDHEU
WASH AFTER FINISH
ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE
ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA
MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO
PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE
ETHERIFIED PRODUCT
ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE EXPENSIVE
AND LESS EFFECTIVE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 30
31. POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)
WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF
BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON
CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE
GOOD CRA
GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION
DURABLE TO WASHING
EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED
COMMERCIALIZATION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 31
32. CITRIC ACID
LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID
LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE
COMPARED TO BTCA
YELLOWING ON CURING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 32
33. MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING
DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON
PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS
ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS
STEP 1
DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS
FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
STEP 2
ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE
REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI
METAL SALTS OF PHOSPHORUS
SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH2PO 2.H2O)
MOST SATISFACORY
CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE
FORMATION AND CROSS LINKING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 33
34. OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS
PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE
GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285
DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7
VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE
WASHING
ORDER OF DURABILITY -
BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 34
35. DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH
PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY
MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE
EXPENSIVE
REDUCING AGENT
AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER
INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE
RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR
COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE
SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 35
36. COST OF BTCA
HIGH COST OF BTCA
WAYS TO REDUCE COST
SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE
PROCESS
USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT
PURIFICATION
FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY
MIXING OTHER PCAs
TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE
FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE
FABRIC STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 36
37. YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA
UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
PRODUCTS FORMED ARE
TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC
ACID, CITRACONIC ACID
YELLOW IN COLOUR
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 37
38. MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING
INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS HYDROXYETHYL
GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR PEG
TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS
YELLOWING
OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA
PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO
UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING
FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR
YELLOWING PREVENTED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 38
39. POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE
STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE
DURING ALKALINE WASH
WAY OUT
MODIFY OH IN CA
INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN
FINISH BATH
-COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA
BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA
ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 39
40. SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH
HIGH COST
NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST
YELLOWING
THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION
SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED
IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL
DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS
RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE
COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER
POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL
ALCOHOL
FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 40
41. SOFTENERS
SILICONE SOFTENERS
CLASSIFICATION
NON REACTIVE
REACTIVE
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL
NON REACTIVE
BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS)
SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO
ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 41
42. SILICONE SOFTENERS
REACTIVE SILICONES
PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR
SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP
BETTER DURABILITY
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS
INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY
etc)
IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON
FIBRE
VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 42
43. ECO FRIENDLINESS
PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY
DISPERSED DROPLETS
ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS
BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME
MINOR PART OF SLUDGE
IF SLUDGE IS
INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA,
WATER AND CO2
AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL
NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED
THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO
DEGRADATION
SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR
WEIGHT PRODUCTS
DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO
BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO
NATURAL SILICA.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 43
44. EFFECTS
PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT
NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC
BACTERIA
DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS
DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT
NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR
PLANT SURVIVAL
DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE
NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND
ANIMAL LIFE
NO SIGNIFICANT BOD
NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 44
45. WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH
IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET
ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR
POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE
LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER
WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS
SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000
SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR
SPORTS WEAR
SKI WEAR
TRACK SUITS
RAIN WEAR
MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 45
46. CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE
FABRICS
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS
LAMINATED FABRICS
COATED FABRICS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 46
47. HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS
OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE
SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS
WIND PROOF
EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY
NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER
FINISHING
USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING
WHERE WIND PROOFING AND WATER
VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT
USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND
CHEATER
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 47
48. LAMINATED FABRICS
ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC
WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE
LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE
BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE
BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH
BIAXIAL STRETCHING
MECHANICAL FIBRILATION
CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE
INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON
SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX
TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF
POLYESTER FABRIC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 48
49. COATED FABRICS
IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES
SOLVENT EXCHANGE
PHASE SEPARATION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 49
50. SOLVENT EXCHANGE
DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE
SOLVENT
THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC
DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS STRUCTURE
BY PASSAGE THROUGH AQUEOUS POLYMER
COAGULATION BATH
EXAMPLE
POLYMER: POLYURETHANE
SOLVENT: DMF
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 50
51. PHASE SEPARATION
DISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF
SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE
COAT THE POLYMER, DRY
EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING
NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT
PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS
LAYER
UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)
POLY URETHANE COATING
SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE
NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG
HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING
REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 51
52. BIO FINISHING
APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR
FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND
GARMENTS
CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S
PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH)
ON INDIGO DYED DENIM
PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 52
53. MECHANISM
CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE
ENZYMES WORKING TOGETHER
SYNERGISTICALLY
1. ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE
: HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY
2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO
CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND
PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE
3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE
CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN
OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 53
54. ENZYME TYPES
1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)
2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)
3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)
TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 54
55. BIO POLISHING
• TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM
• PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE
• WEIGHT LOSS 3-5%
• STRENGTH LOSS 2-7%
• MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC
HYDROLYSIS
• MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED
GARMENTS
• ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE
STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE
• AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN
ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH
HANDLE
• NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR
BIOSTONING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 55
56. ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE
CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS
PATHOGENIC BACTERIA
ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA
FUNGI
GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE
DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION
RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B
HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH
HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION
NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC
OR GARMENT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 56
57. SURGICAL APPARELS
A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE
BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD
THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE
GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES
ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL
APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL
FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND
NURSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 57
58. UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY
CLOTHING
ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE
USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED
DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION
SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC
FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE
PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED
THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 58
59. REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI
BACTERIAL FINISH
DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY
CLEANING
NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER
ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER PROPERTIES
(BREATHABILITY)
COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER
FINISHING CHEMICALS
READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE
SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF
DYES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 59
60. PROTECTION MECHANISM
CONTROLLED RELEASE
THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM
FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL
OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA
REGENERATION MODEL
SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO
AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA.
e.g.
ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING
LAUNDERING
EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 60
61. PROTECTION MECHANISM
BARRIER OR BLOCKING
INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR
COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO
TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS
THROUGH FABRIC
FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT
SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST
BACTERIAL GROWTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 61
62. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
PAD-DRY-CURE
APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG
WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS
VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS
CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID
POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB
METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 62
63. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
GRAFTING
GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE)
ONTO CELLULOSE
IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION
MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART
ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY
USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 63
64. FINISHING TECHNIQUES
BARRIER COATING
COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI
METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL
OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE)
ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER
THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE
GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA
STABLE TO 40 WASHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 64
65. SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES
IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND
SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE
IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED
GARMENTS
MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES
ARE BASED ON
MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC
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66. SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES
THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING
-COOH GROUPS
OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS
FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS
MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH
IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY
FLURO CHEMICALS
PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER
REPELLENCY
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67. EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION
PADDING
LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE
LICK ROLL
POROUS BOWL
VACUUM EXTRACTION
FOAM APPLICTION
ALTERNATE METHODS
LAMINATION
COATING
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68. EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
NEXTEC PROCESS
· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA
· NOVEL PROCESS
· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED
OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER
· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER
RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE
FABRIC HANDLE
· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART
· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,
· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,
· UV PROTECTION
· FLAME RESISTANCE
· MICROBIAL BARRIER
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69. NEXTEC PROCESS
THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION
PROCESS ACHIEVED USING
SILICONE BASED POLYMERS
POLYURETHANE
POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS
THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS
AND GARMENTS
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70. PLASMA TREATMENT
TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY
ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE
· HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC
· DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED
THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE
· WETTABILITY
· ADHESION
· CROSS LINKING
· BIO COMPATIBILITY
· CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS
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71. MERITS
· LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION
· DRY TREATMENT
· ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY
· OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FOR COTTON
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72. USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY
BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC
MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY
USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH
IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE
INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH
FINSHING
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73. UV PROTECTION
· INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON
EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV
RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF
OZONE LAYER
· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED
BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR
GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV
ABSORBERS
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74. CONCLUSIONS
· DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO
COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
· IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON
· GIVE VALUE ADDITION
· MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING
EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
· IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW
CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR IMPARTING
DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC
AND GARMENTS.
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