1. No.
January 2010
£1.80
12
FASHION
Second-hand Style
HOW TO..
Sew in a shoulder pad
FOOD
Budget Dinner Party
HOW TO..
Make chocolate
cheesecake brownies
CRAFT
HOW TO
Make a hair bow clip
SEX
Striptease artist or
Stripper?
DIY
HOW TO..
Fix a bicycle puncture
MONEY
15 ways to save
2. Editor’s
Letter wrong, I don’t ever wish to be thrifty and fashionable. As a
a housewife; in fact the idea generation our imaginations
makes my spine arch in distaste, have been captured by the trend
but I do enjoy a well kept living for ‘older pursuits’ and we want
space, and – I’m going to say to be self sufficient but stylish.
it – I do love to throw a dinner That’s why No.12’s domestic-
party. DIY advice will be accompanied
While I’m no longer into with exciting fashion stories
painting everything Barbie and engaging features, along
pink, my enthusiasm for a bit with the most affordable and
of DIY home improvement still covetable shopping. And we
retains all the vigour of my inner won’t sacrifice substance in
child’s. But what has changed is our aim to bring you a stylish
my willingness to learn how to guide to living, as young
deliver results when it comes writers present their inquisitive
to the more practical problems and considered thoughts on
in life, such as knowing how to issues from the Sex and the
As a girl my most prized change a tyre - whether that be City generation to the ‘art’ of
possession was my all-in-one on a bicycle or a car - I wouldn’t Burlesque in this month’s issue.
deluxe kitchen, from which I know where to start. Speaking No.12 is a magazine for the
was known for rustling up the to some of my friends, it seems woman who laughs at the idea
best home-made pies, cakes and that I’m not alone. One friend of a housewife: your rented
treats. When I wasn’t ‘cooking’ in particular spoke of her room is your distinctively
I adored my Barbie dolls and mortification at having to ask fashioned living space, inviting
longed to be able to live in the two male passers by to change your mates round for dinner
perfectly pink palace I had her tyre after it got a puncture is a fabulous frugal dinner
created for them out of old recently. So our handy cut-out- party, your handmade hair clip
cereal packets. Of course I grew and-keep guides should help is a bespoke accessory, and
up, and with teenage mood you make a start. your wardrobe is your most
swings came a rebellion against The current lack of money is treasured possession; No.12 is
anything remotely girly – I still making itself known, and a fashion and lifestyle magazine
blamed my absurd expectations for many of us with a University for a younger generation.
of future life on deeply rooted degree this isn’t a situation that Let the residents at No.12 guide
gender stereotyping as sold by will be resolved by the ending of you through…
my once-beloved toy kitchen, the recession. So spending the
and vowed from then-on to be
free from those restraints (cue
bra burning). Now, frankly, I
don’t care. Hand me a pinafore
pennies you do have on things
that look great, but don’t cost
the earth is a skill we’ve all had
to develop. No.12 is a fashion
Liv
and a mixing bowl and I’m and lifestyle magazine for savvy Olivia Fisher,
away once again. Don’t get me young women who want to be Editor.
5
3. Meet
the residents
THE HOmEBODY
mS. mAKEr THE FOODIE THE DOmESTIC GOD
mISS KNOWITAll THE CASH QUEEN THE FASHIONISTA
7
4. Strictly
FlAT 1. THE FOODIE’s diNNer party oN a budget
Starter
come eat with me ZOE + GARETH
Gareth is an artist and illustrator,
who currently orders stationery for
a family planning clinic.
Zoe is a tortured artist, when
she’s not working on her latest
masterpiece she welcomes shoppers
Main
to the store she works in.
Everyone loves a
challenge. Everyone TONY + OWAIN
Tony ‘the rock god’ is in a band
loves food. No-one’s got called the Kins of leon. They
impersonate the Kings of leon.
any money. So why not Owain is an actor by trade, but
is currently working as a teacher.
combine all of these
Dessert
‘Nuff said.
massive generalisations
and host a dinner party, BETHAN +CHRISTIANA
on a budget.
Bethan is a Vet Nurse. She has a
Split into four teams, the eight special voice that she only uses
guests are contributing £5 per when talking to the animals.
head for a four course meal; Christiana is an administrator by
the four courses actually being day and a burlesque dancer by
night. All clothes were kept on in
Coctails
three, with a cocktail round for
added fun. Each team of two the making of this feature.
is responsible for providing
a different course. With two
vegetarians on the invite list,
this makes the challenge all the
more difficult, with the “chefs” AMY + OLIVIA
having to provide a vegetarian Amy likes Vodka.
option too. Sounds like it’s Olivia likes Gin.
just as well we’ve got a cocktail
round included.
Left: The dinner guests attempt
home-made pizzas
10 11
5. FlAT 1. THE FOODIE’S rECIPES
Grilled Red Pepper and Individual Chocolate
Goats Cheese Quiche Mousses
with a White Wine sauce with an Orange Crème
GRILLED RED PEPPER & GOATS CHEESE QUICHE THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
Ingredients (To feed a dinner party of 8): 4 red ramero pointy peppers (80p), local grocery 6 eggs Ingredients: 175g dark chocolate (54p), 1 egg yolk, 4 egg whites (£1.42 for 6), 25g sugar (93p/kg),
(£1.42), 250g goats cheese (£2.52), local grocery lettuce (42p), shortcrust pastry (£1.81). splash of milk. (Total: £6.07)
(Total: £6.97) In the cupboard: 1 cube veg stock, olive oil, oven proof dish. Gently melt the chocolate in a glass bowl over some simmering water. Alternatively, melt it gradually
Grill the peppers whole until the skins turn black. When the skins are completely black, place the in a microwave – but try not to burn it. Add a splash of milk to your melted chocolate. In a separate
peppers in foil and leave to sweat. line your quiche dish with foil – this makes it easier to remove bowl whisk the egg whites until peaky. (Test from the foodie: you should be able to hold the bowl
when cooked. line the bottom of the quiche dish with pre-rolled pastry, which will form the base upside down without the mixture falling out). Add the sugar little by little, still whisking. Fold about
of the quiche. Crack 6 eggs into a bowl and whisk. Add a splash of milk and season with salt and a quarter of the whites into the cool melted chocolate, whisk briefly then add the rest of the egg
pepper. Once the peppers have been left for 5 mins, remove from foil. Peel off the skin to reveal the whites. Spoon into individual ramekins, leave to cool then place in the fridge for 2 hours until set.
fleshy part of the pepper and remove seeds. Slice pepper into bite size pieces. Carefully layer slices
of goats cheese and the pre-grilled pepper in the quiche dish. Pour in the whisked eggs and place in
the oven on gas mark 5/180 for 30 mins. THE ORANGE CRÈME
Ingredients: 600ml of double cream (£1.68), 250g sugar (93p/kg), juice and zest of 5 oranges
(£1.50). (Total: £4.11)
WHITE WINE SAUCE
Boil the cream in a saucepan then simmer. Add the sugar, gently stirring while it dissolves. Simmer
Ingredients: 1 shallot (22p), 2 cloves of garlic (10p), 1 onion (16p), mini bottle of white wine until thick then add the juice and zest from the oranges. Simmer for 30 mins. leave to cool then
(£1.89). (Total: £2.37) place in the fridge overnight to allow it to set. Once set, spoon a small scoop on to each individual
Finely chop the onion, shallot and 2 cloves of garlic and add to a pan with a small knob of butter. chocolate desert.
Once the onions start to become translucent, gradually add the white wine. Add a sprinkle of sugar
and reduce over a low heat to remove the alcohol smell. Add ¾ cube of oxo and a pinch of salt and
pepper. ORANGE AND POLENTA BISCUITS
Ingredients (makes around 25): 170g/6oz butter (69p), 170g/6oz sugar (£1.28), 255g/9oz polenta
(57p), 100g /3 ¾ plain flour (43p), zest of 2-3 oranges, finely chopped (45p), 2 large eggs (£1.42
ASPARAGUS AND FIGS for 6). (Total: £4.84)
Ingredients: local grocery baby asparagus tips (90p), 6 fresh figs (£1.00). (Total: £1.90) rub the butter, sugar, polenta and flour together before mixing in the orange zest and the eggs.
Boil the asparagus for 5 mins until tender – don’t over cook it. Add a couple of tips to the plate for Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for an hour until slightly firm. Place a large square of
decoration. Add a scoop of fresh fig and a curl of celery to decorate. greaseproof paper on a baking tray and spoon small teaspoons of the mixture in lines 5cm/2” apart.
Bake in a pre-heated oven at 190 degrees/Gas 5 for around 5-6 mins until the outside edges of your
biscuits are slightly golden. remove from the oven and leave to cool for 15 mins before eating.
16 17
6. FlAT 2. THE HOmEBODY’s the comfiest purchases for the JaNuary bLues
Creature Comforts
An expert on being
a lady of leisure
03
01
02
04
05
06
07
Everyone has a different opinion on the true
meaning of ‘living.’ For some it’s money, for some
its adventure but I would imagine that more often
than not, the notion of good living is associated 08
with comfort – and style. When both of these
factors come together you might imagine that
you’ve struck the perfect combination. Designer
Sophie Goodenough seems to have done just that
with her redesign and renovation of her beloved
VW camper van. She talks to us on page 26
about her very personal style and the challenge
of ripping apart an old van in order to make
something quite beautiful. While Sophie talks
about an adventurous life on the road, writer 09
laura James considers women in a very different 10
context in her article, ‘Sex and the City?’ (page
34). She questions the so-called liberation of the 01.PANDA BEANIE HAT, £12.99, River Island. 02.LUxURY FAUx FUR CUSHION,
SATC generation and the re-emergence of the £15, www.very.co.uk. 03.TOFFEE ALMOND BODY GLAZE, £2.49, Bayliss and Harding.
celebrated housewife. I give some words of advice 04.TAN AND BLACk LEOPARD BERET, £16, Accessorize. 05.CUPCAkE BATH
in my monthly column on page 32, and opposite FIZZERS, £3, Asos. 06.STAR ROBE AND SOCkS, £35, House of Fraser. 07.JACk RUSSELL
I offer some indulgent purchases to cushion the CUSHION, £29.50, Marks and Spencers. 08.BEN DE LISI DOG CUSHION, £15, Debenhams.
effects of the January come-down. 09.BOBBLE HAT, £15, Asos. 10.CHUNkY kNIT POCkET SCARF, £5, George at Asda.
24 25
7. FlAT 2. THE HOmEBODY’S a LiviNg space with a differeNce
Dream camper van
8. FlAT 2. THE HOmEBODY’s a LiviNg space with a differeNce
The vw camper There’s something about a VW
camper van that makes the
‘Because [the festival’s] so
big everyone has cars to
van has a certain possibility of being free from the
daily grind, those ever-growing
travel around, and they were
completely crazily decorated.
power that might
bills, and the responsibility to like there was a pirate ship
stay awake during that mid on wheels with a band playing
just urge you to
afternoon meeting with the - huge jelly fish, little cars -
boss from hell so much more the most insane things I’ve
plausible. ever seen. But I didn’t really
shun your nine- It asks you to imagine road-
tripping through Southern
consciously think, ‘Oh I’d love
to have one of those.’
to-five in favour America, enjoying the freedom
of vast landscapes and living life
It wasn’t until a couple of years
later that Sophie decided she
of a life on the on your terms. would love to have a van of her
own to travel to festivals in. ‘I
road. Sophie
I t’s the called all my tutors and said,
please tell me this is a good idea,
Goodenough tells ultimate because I really want to do it.’
drive-off-into- Their response was encouraging
the homebody how the-sunset
but they were also concerned
that no-one had ever done
she completely dream.
anything quite so, in Sophie’s
words, ‘insane and huge’.
renovated and Following a group road trip
‘It got to the beginning of the
first term back and one of
re-designed her
to The Burning man project my tutors said, “don’t do it”.
(an annual experiment in Saying that to me made me so
camper van in
a temporary community determined to do it. It was a
dedicated to radical self- real kick up the backside.’
expression held in the Nevada When Sophie first bought
order to sell this desert), recent lCC graduate
Sophie Goodenough decided
the van, before it started its
transformation, it was a less
dream. to buy her own camper van
and completely do it up
than eye catching burgundy
red colour with school-room
using her own designs for grey carpet tiles glued onto
her final university project. the interior ceiling and walls.
It was Sophie’s road-tripping The furnishings comprised of
experience to The Burning man a makeshift bed, old kitchen
in 2006 that provided much of units, and what Sophie describes
the inspiration for her camper as a really nasty sink and fake
van project. wooden floor. Not exactly
28 29
9. Sex
FlAT 2. THE HOmEBODY’s the returN of the ceLebrated housewife
and the city?
Laura James often pays only lip service to
those issues, such as HIV and
considers the so- abortion, which in the US at
least, would very rarely play a
called liberation
role in a prime time television
show.
of the Sex and the
Whilst I do not want to attempt
to re-explain the controversies
of what has, undeniably,
City generation become an important narrative
within our cultural psyche, I
and the return do wish to focus on the ways
in which the show essentially
of the celebrated creates a number of binaries
for its lead female figures: to
housewife. HBO’s wildly successful
marry or, quelle horreur, grow
into an old spinster; to have
children or to not have children
television series, ‘Sex and the (but constantly angst over the
City’, caused something of a stir fact that they have not pro-
when it was broadcast on our created). What I am attempting
screens from 1998-2003. much to pinpoint is the fact that the
has been made of the ways show simply exacerbated the
in which it liberated female lack of choice females (and this
sexuality and attempted to is specifically females within the
grapple with the problematics developed world) face within
of abortion, HIV and marriage. the trajectory prescribed for
Conversely, many critics them via narratives of cultural
have also voiced deep-seated and social norms, without,
concerns over the show’s it seems, really grappling or
portrayal of women’s sexual challenging these clichéd routes
relationships with men and the written for women.
‘i can do multi-tasking’
ways in which the programme Whilst the programme may
34 35
10. 15Ways
FlAT 4. THE CASH QUEEN’s peNNy piNcher
to save money
4 Take a packed
lunch to work
Dig out your plastic Barbie lunchbox
and call it retro. If you add up the £5
you spend on lunch a day that’s £100 a
month. In 5 months you could have saved
enough to buy this wonderous Chloe
1
daytripper, £475, net-a-porter.co.uk -
and have enough for change.
6
Make a
5
shopping list
When you go to the supermarket
Make Soup
only buy what you need. You Sell
can help yourself by planning unwanted items making soup is really simple, costs
your meals ahead; try so little and will keep you going for
Go to a car boot sale with a few
lovefoodhatewaste.com for either lunch or dinner for at least
boxes of junk and you’ll be surprised
three days. Find tasty soups at
2
weekly meal plans. at what people will buy – just don’t
7
soup-aholic.blogspot.
be tempted to bring home any tat
com
with you. Find your nearest at
Swap-shop carbootjunction.co.uk Start a
Dinner Club
8
Also known as ‘swishing’, get a group
of your friends together, all bring an Save money by buying bulk
unwanted item and swap party pieces Use your and have a dinner party on
Follow these to your heart’s content. Don’t limit
yourself to clothes and have themed
local grocers
In london most high streets
a budget by starting a weekly
supper club. Take it in turns to
simple tips to keep nights like books or home-ware. It’s
a good idea to bring a few things
have a diverse selection of fruit
and veg shops with produce from
visit friends’ houses and make
dinner for each other.
your purse full
9
each to avoid any swishing all over the world. make the
squabbles. most of these and pay their
and your pennies Revamp
very cheap prices.
plentiful.
3 Buy own
Check out craftynest.com
for great ideas on how to
11 Switch your
10
brand goods reclaim and re-decorate
energy provider
on a budget. Ask for
OK, so own brand bread at 19p isn’t the Jaw-dropping gas and electric bill?
most appetising or particularly nutritious a ‘short’in That moneyman actually knows
option, but canned goods and frozen food Starbucks what he’s talking about.
can be a bargain. Aldi do a great range There is a little-known size Visit uSwitch.com to compare
of continental meats and cheeses, also of coffee that is available in prices and get yourself
their famous anti-ageing face cream Starbucks that is smaller than a cheaper deal.
is a steal at £1.89 and it has been their smallest advertised
widely celebrated by beauty coffee – a tall – and is
journalists. 20p cheaper.
52 53
11. Good Morning
Midnight
Vintage-inspired lingerie
that’s worth waiting for
Photography by Sean Collymore
Styling by Olivia Fisher
Hair and makeup by Katrin Rees
model Katya S at Profile
COAT,
Vintage Nicole Farhi
DIAmOND VAN DOrEN BrA £30,
DIAmOND VAN DOrEN BrIEFS £18.50
SUSPENDEr BElT £31,
Kiss Me Deadly
STOCKINGS £6,
Flirt at Fairy Goth Mother
12. VIrGINIA BrA, £80,
SUSPENDEr BElT £70,
Mademoiselle Fred at Fairy Goth Mother
DElACrOIx SIlK BrIEFS, £17.50,
Kiss me Deadly
BlACK SIlK rOBE,
sourced from second hand
13. lA rED CHOC BOx BrA £70,
Miss La La presents at Fairy Goth Mother
DElACrOIx SIlK FrENCH KNICKErS £25.50,
Kiss me Deadly
14. GYPSY rOSE lEE BrAlETTE £20,
GYPSY rOSE lEE KNICKErS £17.50,
What Katie Did
WHITE FrIll rOBE £80,
‘In Bloom’ at Fairy Goth Mother
15. FlAT 5. THE FASHIONISTA’s how to sew iN a shouLder pad
a simple guide for giving your existing pieces this season's shoulder
HOW TO.. silhouette
STEP 1: Step 2:
sew in a You can buy a wide Fold the shoulder pad
shoulder
range of shoulder pads in half lengthways and
in various sizes, try mark the fold with a
John lewis or local pin at each end. make
pad haberdashery stores for
the best choice. Tailor
your choice to the look
sure the head of the pin
is on the outside edge
of the shoulder pad so
you want to achieve. that you can remove it
Balmain – punchy and when the pad has been
bulbous, Gucci – strong placed in the garment.
and sharp, marc Jacobs –
over-sized and powerful.
Step 3: Put the fold against the shoulder
seam on the garment (or where the seam would be if there
isn’t one). Pin the pad to the material at each end of the shoulder
seam. Take out the original marker pins.
Step 4:
At one end of the seam, sew a few stitches into the pad, through to the fabric. Secure the thread. Sew
six or seven stitches into the pad at this spot, then secure the thread before cutting off the tail end.
Step 6:
Voila!
Step 5: Shoulders
Do the same at the other to rival the
end of the shoulder seam, best of the
then repeat the process season.
with the other shoulder.
16. You don’t have to
spend a million
dollars to look a
lost & million miles from
found thrifty in these
second-hand finds.
Photography by Arved Colvin-Smith
Styling by Olivia Fisher
model Zara at Profile
makeup by Lina Dahlbeck (using mAC)
Hair by Michael Jones
Boots by Christian Louboutin
All other pieces sourced from second hand
17.
18.
19. FlAT 6. THE DOmESTIC GOD’s how to fiX a puNcture oN a bicycLe
since cycling is the stylish way to travel du jour, before long we’ll all
HOW TO.. be poised on our bicycles without a clue what to do if disaster strikes. Tools you will need:
beware, the streets are a minefield of debris waiting to strike you
fix a puncture and your tyres down at any given moment. don’t forget to pack this 1 x pliers / adjustable spanner,
on a
bicycle handy how-to guide in your pannier before you set off and you’ll be
prepared for the worst.
You may have quick release tyres if you have a
particularly swish bicycle, if not you’ll have to
ask a friendly neighbour to borrow one.
2 x cutlery, Surprisingly not for a mid-fix
snack but rather you can use the blunt ends of
your knives and forks as handy tools.
1 x puncture outfit, I wonder what
accessories come with this so-called puncture
ensemble? Not overalls and a headscarf
unfortunately, although I can imagine it
could look quite chic styled in the right way.
Get your kit from Halfords or your local
bicycle shop, it contains the glue and patches
you need to repair the puncture.
Instructions:
1) Using the pliers undo the nuts on the wheel (unless you have quick release wheels) and take the
wheel out from the bicycle frame. 2) Place the blunt end of your spoon/fork under the rim edge of the
tyre. Pull back the tyre and hold down towards the spoke area (as the pesky tyre will try to spring back).
3) Place the blunt end of another spoon/ fork approx 3 inches away from where you started. Pull
back the tyre and repeat around the circumfrence of the wheel. Now you can access the inner tube.
4) Undo the valve screw to the inner tube, (you can do this with your fingers) and push the valve
inside the hole in the rim in order to pull the inner tube out. 5) Get a bowl of water or fill your
sink with water. 6) Pump air into inner tube using a bicycle pump so there is enough air to inflate
it. Place the inflated tube in water and you will be able to see where the air is leaking out. 7) Dry
the inner tube and circle the puncture with some chalk (from your puncture outfit). 8) Take a
patch from your repair kit putting glue on both the patch and the area around the puncture. leave
to cure before placing the patch on the tube. Put something heavy on top for 10 mins approx while
it sets. 9) replace the inner tube putting the valve in the rim first. 10) replace the tyre with the
blunt end of the cutlery, being careful not to pinch the inner tube. 11) Before replacing the wheel
re-inflate the tyre to check it has been repaired fully. Put your tyre back on and cycle off into the
caz Nicklin, founder of cyclechic.co.uk sunset (or just along the high st).
20. Striptease
FlAT 7. mISS KNOWITAll’s
artist or stripper?
Were they not just well (un)
dressed strippers? The three
subgenres of cabaret, variety
and burlesque are constantly
changing, and perhaps this is
the main reason that very little
definite categorisation has been
accomplished and therefore the
terms have become confused.
Cabaret to be cabaret performers and
confusingly have all been billed
In short I believe that cabaret is
an intimate performance genre
chanteuse Amy under the blurred terms of
cabaret, burlesque and variety.
that consists of entertaining
satirical skits, songs, and/
Dowd discusses
The term cabaret instinctively
or improvisations and most
conjures up images of back
importantly must break down
the confusion
streets in European cities
the fourth wall to engage with
hosting dark, underground
the audience. Variety, however
bars, cafés or strip clubs that
surrounding provide an intimate form
of entertainment. Through
is the name given to the overall
evening’s performance and
cabaret, variety popular contemporary images
of cabaret our interpretation is
can often consist of singers,
burlesque, and circus acts
and burlesque distorted from the reality of the
cabaret genre that thrived at the
performing all in one night.
Cabaret can exist in a variety
and the taboo of
show but variety cannot exist
turn of the century in Europe.
in cabaret. As soon as one
Under the umbrella of cabaret
stripping.
includes a juggler, for example,
the words variety and burlesque
into a cabaret performance it
both play a prominent role and
immediately becomes variety.
perhaps the main problem with
This considered, from what I
For the past five years I have the alternative entertainment
have witnessed in performance,
been searching for a type scene in the UK is that we get
the assumed sub-genre of
of theatre that is intimate, the terms confused.
burlesque does not belong
provocative and predominantly Through my quest to understand
under the term cabaret.
late night. During this quest, in these three performance types,
Within the contemporary
Britain alone, I have witnessed which I believe are entirely
cabaret scene in Britain today
a woman climb into a toilet, separable, I have been faced
burlesque is perhaps the
a woman pull a handkerchief with some conflict when
buzzword that has caused the
from her vagina, a woman push understanding the intentions of
most confusion. missbehave,
a sword through her tongue the performance genre dubbed
a noted mainstream cabaret
and a woman meow like a cat, burlesque. I began to wonder
performer believes that ‘cabaret
live on stage. What unites these what afforded these burlesque
has almost become a British
women is that they all claim artists such a glamorous term. marguerite delish performs hot farmer
100