1. DIFFERENT COUNT USED
IN TEXTILE
Md. Robiul Hasan Ovy
Daffodil International University
Dhaka, Bangladesh

2. The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and
must be known before calculating the quantity of yarns for a
known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the
length of yarn in relation to the weight.
Three systems of yarn count are currently in use: the fixed
weight; the fixed length and the Tex systems. The fixed
weight can be used with British and American weights and
systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are
based on metric weights and measures. Tex is an
internationally agreed system of yarn numbering that
applies to all types of yarns, regardless of the method of
production.

3. Conversion:
In normal practice is unnecessary to go
through such a calculation each time a
conversion is required and generally a
conversion factor can be used. In the case of
converting from one direct subsystem to
another, one merely multiplies the know liner
density by the conversion factor to get in
different counts, similarly, when converting
from one indirect subsystem to
another, when converting from indirect to
direct or vice versa then the factor must be
divided by the know quantity.

4. Basically, two types of yarn counting system:
1. Direct system
2. Indirect system.
Another system is classified as third type of count and that
is “Tex”. Tex is also called Universal count. International
Organization for Standardization (ISO) fixed the relationship
between weight and length for Tex. The greater the
weight, the thicker the yarn and Tex will be greater number.
We will discuss it under Direct system.

5. Direct System:
In this system, the count of yarn expresses the no of weight
units in one length unit. Higher the count, coarser the yarn. This
system is generally used for Man made fibre, jute, silk etc.
Now, let’s see the how count is mathematically calculated.
Let,
N = The yarn number or count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit of weight of the system.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit of length of the system.
Now, Count,
N = (W×l)/(L×w)

6. Tex count:
Tex is calculated as Weight of yarn in gm
present in 1000 meter length. It is a universal
system of counting the yarn. This system is
therefore a direct system, simply defined and
simply to use.
Denier:
Denier is calculated as Weight of yarn in gm
present in 9000 meter length. It is basically
used for man made fiber. The denier system of
measurement is used on two and single
filament.

7. Pounds per spindle:
The yarn number or count in the pound per
spindle system is the weight in pounds of
14400 yds of yarn. This count is used for
jute.
Militex:
Count in militex system is the weight in
kilogram of 1km of yarn.
Kilotex:
Count in the kilotex system is the weight in
kilogram of 1km of yarn.

8. Properties:
 It is also called the direct number system'
 This system is based on the weight of a
given length of yarn
 So the numbers you see refer to this weight
 It is a metric system which involves much
simpler methods of calculation

9. Indirect System:
In this system, the count of yarn is expresses the no of length
unit in one weight unit. Here, when count is higher, then yarn
will be finer. The system is usually used for
cotton, worsted, metric, French, linen (wet spun) etc.
Let,
N = The yarn number or count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit of weight of the system.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit of length of the system.
Now, Count,
N = (L×w)/(l×W)

10. English count (Ne)
English Count is Calculated as No. of hanks of 840 yds
present in 1 lb of yarn.
French count (Nf)
French count is calculated as No. of hanks of 1000 meters
present in ½ kg of yarn
Metric count (Nm)
Metric Count is calculated as No. of hanks of 1000 meters
present in 1 kg of yarn.
Worsted count
Worsted Count is Calculated as No. of hanks of 560 yds
present in 1 lb of Yarn. It is basically used for Wool.

11. Properties:
This is based on the length of yarn that makes up a given
weight
 The weight is fixed and the length is variable, so the numbers
you see relate to length
 This is the original and traditional method used for calculating
the thickness of a yarn
 The count or indirect system is very complex
 Each fibre, (wool, cotton, worsted, silk, etc.) uses a slightly
different method of calculation
 To further complicate matters, some countries and locations
have developed their own variations of the system

12. Conclusion:
In all different branches of the textile industry it has been
found necessary to adopt some method of numbering the
different sizes of yarn; this invariable custom is practiced
partly in order that yarns of different thickness maybe
distinguished each other, and partly of the important and
essential function of facilitating calculations when weight
has to be taken into account in the process of
manufacturing . so it is very important in textile field.