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Development of Denim effect
on
knitted fabric

Prepared by:
Md. Salim Azad Didar

TTH ID: SEU-10
Department of Textile Engineering
SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
Mobile: 01671412254
Email: salim_didar16@hotmail.com
The growth paradox

Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
Growth in Knit & Woven Exports

Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
How Far are we?

X
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
About Denim
• The story of jeans begins in the mid19th century simultaneously in two
European cities: Nîmes in France, where
the fabric itself was created, the socalled “Serge de Nîmes” which led to the
name “denim”.
• The classical denim is a heavy fabric
made from 100% cotton and woven
from coarse indigo dyed warp and grey
undyed weft yarn.
• The traditional denim is hard- wearing,
high density fabrics with a high mass
per unit area and a 3/1 or 2/1- twill
weave and 1/1 chambray construction.
Comfortable
Risky
Adventurous
Relaxing
Glamorous
Attractive
Aggressive Smart Casual Dynamic
Energetic
Fashionable
Universal
LIFESTYLE
World Market
Analysis
World Market Analysis
• The world market for denim jeans is projected to exceed
$65 billion by the year 2015.
• This is primarily driven by a rapid rise in the number of
customers purchasing denim jeans that offer better fit,
superior style, durable quality, and an affordable price tag.
• Denim is the most preferred clothing of today’s youth and
accounts about 3% of total world fabric production.
• Conventional woven denim is not as soft in texture as other
knit fabrics and so applications of denim in fashion design
is limited.
• The immense numbers of almost two billion pairs of jeans
are produced each year, claiming about 10 percent of the
worldwide cotton harvest
Denim in Bangladesh
• Bangladesh has come up as the third most important
exporter of denim apparel to US after Mexico and China and
second highest to EU after China.
• Bangladesh is also one of the cheapest production centers
for apparel around the world.

• In Bangladesh the market for denims is dominated only by
jeans wear. Therefore we need to focus on fashionable
elements on denim fabric.
• This lead to the idea of creating denim effect on knitted
fabric.
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Woven fabric

Knit Fabric
Why knit Denim
•
•
•
•
•
•

Value addition
Softness
Stretch ability
Comfort
Pliability
Breathability
Knitted denim creating new business opportunities
Recent survey on children’s denim products showed that
• comfort,
• softness and easy care,
Parents and Children
• lightweight and
• fabric quality of the attributes.
Knitted denim fabric with its
• delicate structure,
• clear lines,
• soft, breathable comfort,
• playing quality thin features is the ultimate solution putting
both fashion and comfort in balance.
With the varieties of knitted denim continues to expand,
knit denim can be used as
•Absorbent,
•Antibacterial

•Health Care Purposes, as well as in
• T Shirts,
•Children's Clothing,
•Sleepwear,
•Underwear,
•Sportswear,
•Casual Wear,
•Fashion, Etc.
Woven Denim Production Process Flow Chart
• Cotton → Spinning mills → Yarn → Dying & sizing factories
→ Weaving → Denim fabric → Finishing → Cut and sew →
Garment washing factories → Quality inspection &
Packaging→ Wholesale markets Retailers → Consumers

Rope Dyeing

Weaving
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Flow Chart of knit denim
Yarn

Yarn

Indigo dyeing of
yarn

Yarn Dyeing

Beams are created

knitting

Converted to Indigo
cheese

Finishing
Reactive dye process

Knitting

Finishing
Indigo dye process
Comparison between woven and knitted denims
Woven

Knitted

Rigid

Highly extensible

Easy to tear

Difficult to tear

Gets Crease And Wrinkled easily

Highly Crease resistant

Stiffer

Limb

Air Permeability is Less

Air Permeability is More
Merits of knitted denim
The knitted denim offers the following advantages in comparison
with its woven counterpart:

 The comfort ability of knit denim garments is better than woven
denim garments.
 It mold and move easily with body movement.
 Its stretch ability is good.
 It resists wrinkles.
 Knit fabrics are soft and drape well.
 Air Permeability is more in knit fabrics

 Most important perhaps is that knits relate well to contemporary
life-styles.
Popular Denim Brands & buyers
Knit Denim products
Products
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Stretch denim
Capris
Jumpers
Vest
Leggings
Woman shorts
Skirts
Denim blouse

•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Pajamas
Denim Skinny jeans
Jacket
Denim cardigan
Denim Shirt
T shirt
Polo Shirt
Children jeans
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric
Methodology
Yarn Details
• Yarn Type

: 100% cotton combed
yarn, ring spun

• Yarn count

: 24/1

• Yarn origin

: India “Shankar”

• CSP

: 2420

• IPI

: 29.8

• CV%

: 7.0

• TPI

: 17.74

• Type of twist

: Z twist

• M/C brand for producing yarn

: Rieter
Figure: Yarn package

Photo Courtesy: Akij Textile Mills Ltd.
Yarn Dyeing

Photo Courtesy: Knit Concern yarn dyeing Ltd.
Yarn Dyeing Machine Specification

Machine type

: Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine

Brand

: Fongs

Origin

: China

Yarn quantity given for dyeing

: 6.4 kg

Yarn quantity received after dyeing

: 6.18 kg
Flow Chart of yarn Dyeing
Grey yarn received
Soft winding
Batching
Yarn Dyeing in Package
form
Hydro extractor
Dryer

Rewinding
Packing
Delivery
Yarn Dyeing Recipe

•
•
•
•
•

Total Weight of Yarn:
Liquor ratio:
No. of cone:
Yarn Type:
Dye color:

6.4 Kg
1:10
8
24/1 Ne
Navy blue

Dyeing(Dyes and Chemicals):
• Dekol-SN:
1.5 g/L
• Triplex-2146:
0.3 g/L
• Parma. NF:
0.25 g/L
• Rema. 4% Red RGB : 2.024 g/L
• Rema. 4% Navy RGB : 3.76 g/L
• Glauber salt:
80 g/L
• Soda:
5 g/L
• Caustic:
2 g/L
• Temperature:
90 ◦C
• Time:
40 min
• PH:
6.00
YARN DYEING

Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine

Hydro extractor
YARN DYEING

Radio Frequency Dryer

Rewinding
Photo Courtesy : knit concern yarn Dyeing Ltd.
Knitting
Knitting Methods
Yarn Type: 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Yarn count
CSP
IPI
CV
TPI
Dyed yarn : 6.18 kg;
Grey yarn : 6 kg;
Lycra
: 40 D;

: 24/1 Ne
:2420
:29.8
:7.0
: 17.74
No. of cones = 51
No. of cones = 48
No. of cones = 48
Knitting Machine specification
• Machine type
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Brand
Model
Cylinder Diameter
Needle gauge
Number of feeder
Number of needle
Rotation

: Single jersey Circular
knitting machine
: Well Run
: SHS-90
: 32”
: 24 G
: 96
: 2412
: Anticlockwise
Cleaning before Installation

Cleaning of CAMs

Cleaning of cylinders
Sinker CAM & Sinker Arrangement

Figure : Sinker placement

Figure: Sinker CAM

Figure: Placement of Sinker CAM
Needle Setup

Figure : Needle Setup
CAM Setup

Figure: CAM setup
Yarn Setup

Figure : Yarn Feeding
Lycra Attachment & Stitch Length Setup

Figure : Lycra Attachment

Figure : Stitch Length Setting
Maintaining Tension

Figure : Tension of the Yarn maintained

Take Down

Figure : Fabric Takedown
Inspection

Figure :Fabric Inspection

Photo Courtesy: Shohan knit Composite
Details On Produced Fabrics

N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
Data Analysis
Experimental Data on Knit Denim

Experimental Data for Woven Denim
Visual Comparison Of Knit and woven Denim

Tuck Denim

Knit Denim

Woven Denim
Shrinkage
Spirality
Color fastness to wash
GSM before wash
GSM after wash
Fabric production cost:
24/1 Ne 100% cotton combed yarn price
Cost of 100 Kg of yarn = 4.5x100

=$4.5 per Kg
= $450

Yarn Dyeing cost
Process loss
Actual yarn dyed
Yarn dyeing cost for 96 kg

= $2.5 per Kg
= 4%
= 96 Kg
=$240

Knitting cost
Process loss
Actual Fabric to be produced
Knitting cost for 93kg yarn

= $0.31 per Kg
= 7%
= 93kg
=$28.83

Total Cost= $450 + 240+28.83

=$718.83

Total cost to produce 1 kg of Knit Denim

= $7.73 per kg
Further developments
1. Knitting with indigo dyed yarn of proper flexibility in cone
form
2. Fading effect on reactive dyed yarn by advanced garments
washing technology
3. Creating options for cost minimization by knitting with
rotor yarn, polyester etc.
4. Creating new designs using other knitting machineries.
And more….
Conclusion
• To earn more= To invest more
• Adding value to our product is the ultimate solution to
boost and sustain in the future
• The two fabrics that got developed during this research are
softer and comfortable as well as less complicated to be
produced.

• Knit denim is the fabric of the future, a future that we must
understand and adapt so as to survive in this competitive
market.
Message
• Value Addition

• Technical textile

• Nanotechnology

• Non woven

• Plasma Technology
• Composite material

“I Believe”
Acknowledgement
• Md. Mahamudul Islam, Lecturer
• Prof. Fakhrul Hasan Murad, Chairman, Department of Textile
Engineering, Southeast University
• Prof. A.N.M Ahmedullah,
• Prof. Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah –Ur- Rahman

Shohan Knit
Composite
Knit Concern Yarn Dyeing Ltd.

Akij Textile mills Ltd.
Thank
You…
QUESTIONS

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Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric

  • 1. 3rd season of country’s first ever competition for textile, garment & fashion design students. Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric Prepared by: Md. Salim Azad Didar TTH ID: SEU-10 Department of Textile Engineering SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Mobile: 01671412254 Email: salim_didar16@hotmail.com
  • 2. The growth paradox Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
  • 3. Growth in Knit & Woven Exports Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
  • 4. How Far are we? X
  • 7. About Denim • The story of jeans begins in the mid19th century simultaneously in two European cities: Nîmes in France, where the fabric itself was created, the socalled “Serge de Nîmes” which led to the name “denim”. • The classical denim is a heavy fabric made from 100% cotton and woven from coarse indigo dyed warp and grey undyed weft yarn. • The traditional denim is hard- wearing, high density fabrics with a high mass per unit area and a 3/1 or 2/1- twill weave and 1/1 chambray construction.
  • 10. World Market Analysis • The world market for denim jeans is projected to exceed $65 billion by the year 2015. • This is primarily driven by a rapid rise in the number of customers purchasing denim jeans that offer better fit, superior style, durable quality, and an affordable price tag. • Denim is the most preferred clothing of today’s youth and accounts about 3% of total world fabric production. • Conventional woven denim is not as soft in texture as other knit fabrics and so applications of denim in fashion design is limited. • The immense numbers of almost two billion pairs of jeans are produced each year, claiming about 10 percent of the worldwide cotton harvest
  • 11. Denim in Bangladesh • Bangladesh has come up as the third most important exporter of denim apparel to US after Mexico and China and second highest to EU after China. • Bangladesh is also one of the cheapest production centers for apparel around the world. • In Bangladesh the market for denims is dominated only by jeans wear. Therefore we need to focus on fashionable elements on denim fabric. • This lead to the idea of creating denim effect on knitted fabric.
  • 14. Why knit Denim • • • • • • Value addition Softness Stretch ability Comfort Pliability Breathability
  • 15. Knitted denim creating new business opportunities Recent survey on children’s denim products showed that • comfort, • softness and easy care, Parents and Children • lightweight and • fabric quality of the attributes. Knitted denim fabric with its • delicate structure, • clear lines, • soft, breathable comfort, • playing quality thin features is the ultimate solution putting both fashion and comfort in balance.
  • 16. With the varieties of knitted denim continues to expand, knit denim can be used as •Absorbent, •Antibacterial •Health Care Purposes, as well as in • T Shirts, •Children's Clothing, •Sleepwear, •Underwear, •Sportswear, •Casual Wear, •Fashion, Etc.
  • 17. Woven Denim Production Process Flow Chart • Cotton → Spinning mills → Yarn → Dying & sizing factories → Weaving → Denim fabric → Finishing → Cut and sew → Garment washing factories → Quality inspection & Packaging→ Wholesale markets Retailers → Consumers Rope Dyeing Weaving
  • 19. Flow Chart of knit denim Yarn Yarn Indigo dyeing of yarn Yarn Dyeing Beams are created knitting Converted to Indigo cheese Finishing Reactive dye process Knitting Finishing Indigo dye process
  • 20. Comparison between woven and knitted denims Woven Knitted Rigid Highly extensible Easy to tear Difficult to tear Gets Crease And Wrinkled easily Highly Crease resistant Stiffer Limb Air Permeability is Less Air Permeability is More
  • 21. Merits of knitted denim The knitted denim offers the following advantages in comparison with its woven counterpart:  The comfort ability of knit denim garments is better than woven denim garments.  It mold and move easily with body movement.  Its stretch ability is good.  It resists wrinkles.  Knit fabrics are soft and drape well.  Air Permeability is more in knit fabrics  Most important perhaps is that knits relate well to contemporary life-styles.
  • 24. Products • • • • • • • • Stretch denim Capris Jumpers Vest Leggings Woman shorts Skirts Denim blouse • • • • • • • • Pajamas Denim Skinny jeans Jacket Denim cardigan Denim Shirt T shirt Polo Shirt Children jeans
  • 30. Yarn Details • Yarn Type : 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun • Yarn count : 24/1 • Yarn origin : India “Shankar” • CSP : 2420 • IPI : 29.8 • CV% : 7.0 • TPI : 17.74 • Type of twist : Z twist • M/C brand for producing yarn : Rieter
  • 31. Figure: Yarn package Photo Courtesy: Akij Textile Mills Ltd.
  • 32. Yarn Dyeing Photo Courtesy: Knit Concern yarn dyeing Ltd.
  • 33. Yarn Dyeing Machine Specification Machine type : Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine Brand : Fongs Origin : China Yarn quantity given for dyeing : 6.4 kg Yarn quantity received after dyeing : 6.18 kg
  • 34. Flow Chart of yarn Dyeing Grey yarn received Soft winding Batching Yarn Dyeing in Package form Hydro extractor Dryer Rewinding Packing Delivery
  • 35. Yarn Dyeing Recipe • • • • • Total Weight of Yarn: Liquor ratio: No. of cone: Yarn Type: Dye color: 6.4 Kg 1:10 8 24/1 Ne Navy blue Dyeing(Dyes and Chemicals): • Dekol-SN: 1.5 g/L • Triplex-2146: 0.3 g/L • Parma. NF: 0.25 g/L • Rema. 4% Red RGB : 2.024 g/L • Rema. 4% Navy RGB : 3.76 g/L • Glauber salt: 80 g/L • Soda: 5 g/L • Caustic: 2 g/L • Temperature: 90 ◦C • Time: 40 min • PH: 6.00
  • 36. YARN DYEING Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine Hydro extractor
  • 37. YARN DYEING Radio Frequency Dryer Rewinding Photo Courtesy : knit concern yarn Dyeing Ltd.
  • 39. Knitting Methods Yarn Type: 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun • • • • • • • • Yarn count CSP IPI CV TPI Dyed yarn : 6.18 kg; Grey yarn : 6 kg; Lycra : 40 D; : 24/1 Ne :2420 :29.8 :7.0 : 17.74 No. of cones = 51 No. of cones = 48 No. of cones = 48
  • 40. Knitting Machine specification • Machine type • • • • • • • Brand Model Cylinder Diameter Needle gauge Number of feeder Number of needle Rotation : Single jersey Circular knitting machine : Well Run : SHS-90 : 32” : 24 G : 96 : 2412 : Anticlockwise
  • 41. Cleaning before Installation Cleaning of CAMs Cleaning of cylinders
  • 42. Sinker CAM & Sinker Arrangement Figure : Sinker placement Figure: Sinker CAM Figure: Placement of Sinker CAM
  • 43. Needle Setup Figure : Needle Setup
  • 45. Yarn Setup Figure : Yarn Feeding
  • 46. Lycra Attachment & Stitch Length Setup Figure : Lycra Attachment Figure : Stitch Length Setting
  • 47. Maintaining Tension Figure : Tension of the Yarn maintained Take Down Figure : Fabric Takedown
  • 48. Inspection Figure :Fabric Inspection Photo Courtesy: Shohan knit Composite
  • 49. Details On Produced Fabrics N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
  • 50. N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
  • 51. Data Analysis Experimental Data on Knit Denim Experimental Data for Woven Denim
  • 52. Visual Comparison Of Knit and woven Denim Tuck Denim Knit Denim Woven Denim
  • 58. Fabric production cost: 24/1 Ne 100% cotton combed yarn price Cost of 100 Kg of yarn = 4.5x100 =$4.5 per Kg = $450 Yarn Dyeing cost Process loss Actual yarn dyed Yarn dyeing cost for 96 kg = $2.5 per Kg = 4% = 96 Kg =$240 Knitting cost Process loss Actual Fabric to be produced Knitting cost for 93kg yarn = $0.31 per Kg = 7% = 93kg =$28.83 Total Cost= $450 + 240+28.83 =$718.83 Total cost to produce 1 kg of Knit Denim = $7.73 per kg
  • 59. Further developments 1. Knitting with indigo dyed yarn of proper flexibility in cone form 2. Fading effect on reactive dyed yarn by advanced garments washing technology 3. Creating options for cost minimization by knitting with rotor yarn, polyester etc. 4. Creating new designs using other knitting machineries. And more….
  • 60. Conclusion • To earn more= To invest more • Adding value to our product is the ultimate solution to boost and sustain in the future • The two fabrics that got developed during this research are softer and comfortable as well as less complicated to be produced. • Knit denim is the fabric of the future, a future that we must understand and adapt so as to survive in this competitive market.
  • 61. Message • Value Addition • Technical textile • Nanotechnology • Non woven • Plasma Technology • Composite material “I Believe”
  • 62. Acknowledgement • Md. Mahamudul Islam, Lecturer • Prof. Fakhrul Hasan Murad, Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University • Prof. A.N.M Ahmedullah, • Prof. Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah –Ur- Rahman Shohan Knit Composite Knit Concern Yarn Dyeing Ltd. Akij Textile mills Ltd.