Vegetable Gardens: Grow Food, Save Water - City of Aurora

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4. Modern Food Production’s Environmental Impacts
Population growth. The Earth’s current population is 6.7 billion, and scientists estimate 9
billion by 2040.
Soil degradation. The main causes of soil degradation is erosion, contamination, and over-
production. The outcome is a substantial reduction in the productivity of the land.
Climate change. Believe what you will of its causes, the fact is that global weather patterns
are changing. This process may have significant impacts on water resources around the
world because of the close connections between the climate, hydrologic cycle and wildlife.
Limited water resources. The world's supply of clean, fresh water is steadily decreasing.
Water demand already exceeds supply in many parts of the world and as the world
population – and therefore demand – continues to rise, so will water needs.
Energy. The current industrial agriculture system is partially accountable for high energy
costs. The average conventional produce item travels 1,500 miles, using as much as one
gallon of gas per hundred pounds.
Health. The method of crop production is linked to that crop’s nutritional value, it’s
incidences of disease, and it’s contamination by pesticides/herbicides. All of these factors
have proven effects on the people and animals who eat that crop.
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5. The public response to current food production practices is varied. Some may be trends, others are here for the
long haul.
Urban Horticulture & Agriculture. Producing food in the urban environment occurs on two levels: small-scale
horticulture and larger-scale agriculture. When you hear “urban horticulture”, think of yard vegetable gardens.
Victory gardens sprouted during the world wars, a relief measure by citizens to reduce food production pressure.
These gardens typically feed only one individual or group. When you hear “urban agriculture”, think farms.
These are organizations that are purchasing large plots in urban (or suburban) centers and growing larger
amounts of produce for others, whether or not its for charity or sale. Community gardens could be considered
urban agriculture. Both urban horticulture and agriculture are methods for producing inexpensive, local and
organic foods. It addresses issues of perceived or real food security and safety.
Composting. Composting is a valuable aid to sustainable agriculture. “Composting ‘upcycles’ organic kitchen and
yard waste and manures into an extremely useful humus-like, soil end product, permitting the return of vital
organic matter, nutrients, and particularly bacteria, that are vital to plant nutrition to the soil.”
Watershed. Pesticide, herbicide, and bacterial run-off into watersheds is a real issue in agriculture and livestock
production. Protecting watersheds is vital to protecting irrigation and drinking water quality.
Rainwater Harvesting & Diversion. “Traditionally, rainwater harvesting has been practiced in arid and semi-arid
areas, and has provided drinking water, domestic water, water for livestock, water for small irrigation and a way
to increase ground water levels.” Harvesting is illegal in Colorado, while diversion is perfectly legal.
Local Food. Purchasing food that is produced locally (in your town, county, state, or region). The concept of the
foodshed is similar to that of a watershed; it is an area where food is grown and eaten. Said to build strong and
self-reliant food economies, the “eat local” movement is sweeping the country. Those who prefer to eat locally
are sometimes called “localvores” or “locavores.” This means possibly eating a lesser variety of foods, and eating
in-season. Many locavores also believe in sustainable production methods and believe that “since food is needed
by everyone, everywhere, every day, a small change in the way it is produced and marketed will have a great
effect on health, the ecosystem and preservation of cultural diversity.”
Organics. “Health food is a term that has been used in the United States since the 1920s and refers to specific
foods claimed to be especially beneficial to health” but organic food refers to a specific certification process
backed by the USDA. To be certified organic, a food must never be treated by most herbicides, pesticides,
artificial additives or dyes. Organic foods are not bioengineered. Organic meats are from animals that were not
treated with hormones and antibiotics.
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7. The results from converting a 1,000 square foot plot from turf grass to a vegetable
garden were significant. At the Aurora Municipal Center (AMC), the amount of water
used for irrigation dropped from 13,000 gallons over the course of the year to 2,500
gallons. At the Griswold Water Treatment Facility, the water use dropped from
10,250 gallons to 3,500 gallons. Irrigation at both properties was reduced from
23,250 gallons to 6,000 gallons. This is an average reduction of 74%.
Figures are based on our 1st year findings.
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9. Household Size. It takes an average of 200 sq.ft. to grow the amount of fruits/veggies
needed by one person during the growing season at intermediate yields. To grow all
the food for one person's needs for the whole year requires at least 4,000 square
feet.
What is your available space? What does it look like, how big is it, how much light
does it receive?
Determine your produce preferences. Different vegetables have remarkable size
differences. One squash plant, for instance, will take up 10 sq feet or more! One
lettuce plant will take up 1 sq foot.
Annuals & Perennials. Some vegetables and fruits are perennials, meaning they lay
dormant through the winter or re-seed. Most are annuals, meaning you have to
establish new plants every year. Some require multiple seasons to produce.
How much time do you have to devote to a garden? If you only have time to weed 20
sq ft, don’t plant a 200 sq ft plot.
Experience. Are you new to gardening? Start small! Take time to learn about
succession planting. You can plant only one planting of squash per season, but you
can plant two plantings of lettuce: one in the early spring, one in the fall.
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10. Sizing factors: spacing, planting configuration, seasonality/succession
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11. Include an adequately sized walkway, 2-4’ depending on your comfort and tools you
will use (wheelbarrows and wheelchairs need a wider berth than your feet). To give
you a visual comparison, 2’ is the width of a small paver, 4’ is the width of a
residential sidewalk.
Design tools are available online, see the Design Online slide on page 24.
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12. Companion planting, aka intercropping or polyculture. It’s not an exact science, but
there is some evidence that companion planting is beneficial. Companion planting
exists to benefit certain plants by providing natural pest control, encouraging
pollinators, and adding vital nutrients.
Inter-planting particular herbs and flowers amongst your crops can work in multiple
ways:
1. Attract predators. By planting flowers and herbs among your vegetables, you can
attract beneficial insects and birds, which are natural predators to those pests
that eat brassica leaves.
2. Chemical deterrents. The African marigold, along with other plants, are well
known for companion planting, as they exude chemicals from their roots that
repel pests and protect neighboring plants.
3. Spatial/physical. Companion planting also works in a spatial way. For example,
tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with lower-growing, shade-
tolerant species, resulting in higher total yields from the land. This is called spatial
interaction, and can also yield pest control benefits. The presence of prickly vines
is said to discourage raccoons from ravaging sweet corn.
4. Encouraging pollinators. Planting bright flowers next to crops that require
pollination will attract pollinators like bees and butterflies.
5. Nutrient fixation. Some crops are naturally “nitrogen fixers”, meaning they feed
nitrogen into the soil, making it unnecessary to use nitrogen fertilizers in the next
season. Crop rotation in this technique is essential. Soybeans and legumes are
nitrogen fixers.
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13. Examples:
Cabbage is believed to pair well with Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile,
Spinach, Chard. Onion family plants are believed to repel aphids, weevils, carrot flies,
moles, fruit tree borers; controls rust flies and some nematodes. HOWEVER,
cabbages are believed to inhibit growth of peas & beans.
Asparagus pairs well with Tomato, Parsley, Basil. Parsley repels asparagus beetles.
REMEMBER! Some plants may INHIBIT others.
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15. There are six items to consider during your planning process.
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16. Proximity It’s convenient to have garden close to house and/or water source
Code. Keep in mind the Aurora Zoning Code, which states that residents must have
50% long-lived (perennial) plant material in the front yard. So if you want a front yard
garden, make sure you have at least an equal square footage of perennials.
Exposure to sun and wind. Leafy veggies tolerate shade. Fruit-producing plants need
full sun. Any windbreaks you build should not restrict sunlight. Living windbreaks’
(like shrubs or corn) roots may interfere if they are planted too close
Terrain and drainage. Ideal terrain is flat or has a slight southern slope. Veggies
need good drainage and deep fertile soil. Plant with our natural contours/slopes in
mind. Plant at right angles to slope to utilize the drainage to your best advantage.
Fencing to keep out animals – dogs, bunnies…
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17. Rows are the traditional method and resembles large-scale agricultural practices
Blocks or wide rows create shade, reduce evaporation. This method prices 5 to 10 times
more non-compacted soil space!
Raised beds have either sloped, natural sides or you can build up structured boxes. Build
supported edges at least 10” high for a retaining structure. These require increased time,
labor and money to build. However, they’re good looking, good for areas adjacent to lawns
or gardens with limited space, and good for gardeners with disabilities.
The process: 1. mark out perimeter 6. break up sod
2. cut sod 7. add compost
3. loosen soil 8. fill frame with topsoil
4. add frame 9. let settle for a week
5. invert cut sod
Mixed beds are beds that interplant with first year xeric plant material. Many veggies and
veggie verities have ornamental qualities that blend nicely with purely aesthetic plants.
Container gardens allow veggies to grow almost anywhere. Make sure your containers are
large enough to give roots room to grow and have enough soil to retain moisture.
Perennials can go in your front yard, and keep you in line with the 50% coverage code
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18. We recommend planning for deep beds. If given the opportunity in loose soil, you
can see (as pictured) how far plant roots will dig down into the soil.
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19. Plant spacing. Determine the size of your desired plants and each plant’s light and
water needs. Remember to provide supports (tomato cages) to the plants that need
them: tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, etc.
Irrigation Zones. Group fruits and veggies according to water needs and put these
groupings on separate irrigation zones if needed.
Succession. Remember that many plants can be planted in multiple seasons. You can
have a spring / summer / winter plant rotation. This can save space.
Companion. You will need a little extra space for your companion plants (marigolds),
although some companion plant seeds can be sowed in the same holes as your crop
seeds.
Going Vertical. A solution for space constraints! Some plants like tomatoes, herbs,
etc do well in containers or “green walls” like the one above. Think about making
your vining plants, like cucumbers and some squash, grow vertically on strong
supports.
Inter-planting can save space. If you have shorter, shade-tolerant plants like lettuces,
put them closer to taller, sun-loving vegetables like eggplant.
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20. Know your soil makeup: nutrient levels, pH, particle content. Even with a decent makeup,
plan to add compost and other amendments like bone meal or fish emulsion at least once to
different plantings.
PH effects: Availability of nutrients, Microorganism activity, Plants’ competitive ability,
Physical condition of soil (if lime used), Solubility/potency of toxic elements, Presence of
disease
Aurora has generally loamy soil and clayey subsoil (examples: Renohill-Buick-Litle Association
in Lowry AFB Bombing Range). Fondis and other soils that have high shrink-swell potential
can cause damage to a building’s foundation. Homes built on fondis should have specially-
designed foundations. If you have heavily clay soil, add organic matter such as compost or
grass clippings.
Front range soil is almost consistently alkaline. It is difficult to increase or decrease the pH of
soil. You can add acid peat moss, or use acid-forming fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate or
aluminum sulfate.
At home pH kits have been rated and found wanting – for accurate and comprehensive
results, look into CSU tests (for ph, salts, and nutrient levels, recommendations) for $28
What is soil quality and soil health? When soil is at its best it can absorb and hold moisture,
supports plant and animal life, and helps purify the air by storing CO2 in the soil (carbon
sequestration) which helps the environment by giving cleaner air.
How to improve Soil Health. Any activity to the soil affects the soil quality. Conservation
tillage practices, crop rotation, pest and nutrient management, and soil testing help produce
better soil health. Leaving organic matter on the soil surface each year (at least 2
tons/acre/year) helps build up the organic layer.
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21. Spacing: know each plant’s sizes at planting and maturity
Water and sun requirements – group similar plants together
Color, texture, height, seasonal interest – think of all these factors as you design
Reproduction: seeds, runners, division – this will affect maintenance AND how plants
will “fill in” (desirable or undesirable)
Money Saving Tips:
• Share and trade with neighbors
• Check out “big box store” sales
• Coupons
• *Be careful with mail order plants, the quality may be lacking
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22. As a rule of thumb, vegetables use around ¼ inch of water per day, depending on
temperature, wind, and stage of crop development. Determine the best method for
you, depending on your irrigation zones you want to/be able to use multiple methods
Stick your fingers in the soil! It’s the best way to determine if your veggies need
watering or if you’re overwatering. Irrigate if the top 3 inches are dry.
Automate your irrigation system but be sure to put it on a different schedule than
turf! Veggies don’t need as much water.
For veggie gardens, use an organic mulch like small wood chips, newspaper, or straw
that will break down over the fall and winter, enriching your soil.
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23. Drip/bubblers are versatile
Pop-ups / Overhead
• Pop-ups output level is approx 1½ inches per hour
• Use Larger drops for higher absorption rates
• May be able to use heads from separate zone
• Only use at evening, night or early morning
• Follow city watering restrictions
• Some diseases are associated with overhead, creates favorable conditions for
mold etc
Soaker hoses show some problems, can clog
Hand watering and soaker hoses are best for small area or containers
Hand water takes more time but is more efficient and you can do it anytime
For optimal efficiency, go with the drip/bubbler – it can be precisely targeted and
there’s less evaporation. Space them every 12” in dense plots under mulch
You can realize up to 50% water savings by converting to low pressure/filter or use
spigot attachment/timers . Check out our Irrigation 101 class.
Rainwater diversion is a great way to more effectively use rainwater. Check out the
online class.
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24. Creating a design to scale will assist in knowing your seed and plant quantities.
What and how much?
Plant what you’ll eat and in appropriate quantities. Don’t plant two squash plants if
you live alone – trust me. You’ll find that you’ll learn as you go. Discover which
veggies and fruits you prefer. Try something new every year.
Remember code – front vs. backyard
Check out our class “Preparing for your Design Consultation” available online or in a
classroom with instructor.
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25. Multiple spatial design tools are available online for free.
www.GrowVeg.com
Garden Planner Online at www.smallblueprinter.com/garden/planner – tutorials are
also available.
Other free tools, like “Family Feeder Calculator” and “Soil Calculator” are available at
www.vegetablegardenplanner.com
For larger plots, the “Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator” at www.landshareco.org
are a good resource.
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27. Needed tools:
Spade
Bow rake
Hose
Trowel
Gloves
Alternative tools:
Digging fork
Hoe
Recommended:
Wheelbarrow
Rototiller
Garden Journal
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28. All you need are stakes, twine, and a measuring tape. In one of the pictured
examples, somebody used poles or dowels of equal length.
Before you begin, mow.
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29. Removal of sod
Killing turf with round-up not recommended for organic vegetable gardening
Methods
Spade
sharpen spade edge
cut out blocks of turf with spade at low angle
Sod cutter can rent at store like home depot
Fall Prep
best time to prepare bed
don’t have to physically remove turf, just turn over the
sod blocks and use a spade to chop the blocks into pieces
work well-rotted manure and/or other compost or
leaves into soil
add 6 inches of topsoil for a raised bed
fall prep allows time for natural decomposition
Spring
Remove and compost turf
not enough time to decompose
Or turn under in raised bed
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30. Fall is best time (unless you’ve put down a cover crop)
- soil has time to settle, fewer air pockets
- organisms can rebuild disturbed structure
- light forking will expose clumps to freeze and thaw cycle
How you dig is just as important as what you add.
Do not work wet soil
- will damage soil structure/oxygen
- soil that sticks to tools is generally too wet to work
Topsoil layer has more organic matter
Methods of loosening topsoil:
Rototilling
• First two years
• Unnecessary tilling disturbs natural aggregates, promotes surface
crusting & compaction
Methods of loosening subsoil:
Why? Subsoil layer contains minerals, or micronutrients, that vegetables need
in small quantities they usually can’t get in the topsoil
• provides additional depth (below 9 inches) for roots
• increases water holding capacity
Forking – simple & relatively quick process
• eliminates the need of chopping with a spade
• loosens soil without disturbing layers or weed seeds
• Use a digging fork or a broadfork (has two handles, tines are deeper,
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31. Amending is vital. Organic amendments feed soil (aka build soil) and soil feeds your plants! Soil-clay and sandy
soils will both benefit from organic amendment, as it improves texture and breaks up fine clay particles.
Amendment also increases the water holding capacity of sandy soils. Incorporate amendment thoroughly and
deeply; it is helpful to apply during soil tilling. All amendments are depleted over time, so replenish at least
biannually.
Compost is decomposed plant material. Add 2-3 inches of compost to your garden every year. Choose material
free of insecticides, herbicides and weed seeds. A great compost is your recycled debris from last years’ garden,
as long as it is mildew/weed free. Wood chips or fresh grass trimmings are not recommended, as they will deplete
nitrogen from the soil. If you have only partially decomposed plant material, add this mixture in the fall so it has
time to decompose fully.
Manure is animal waste. Fresh (warm) manure has the potential to “burn” roots and may be contaminated by
bacteria (including e. coli), so add this only in the fall so it has time to decompose fully. Look for aged/composted
manure which does not smell and is dark in color. Manure may be high in salts, so add only 1 inch per season.
Cover crops aka green manure are crops that are planted in the fall and allowed to die naturally in the winter.
They then decompose with tilling in the spring, adding nutrients and aerating the soil. It virtually eliminates your
need to haul in and add amendment! Plus, it provides extra fall shade, making a less desirable environment for
weeds. Make sure to mow and tilled in at least 3 weeks before planting.
Peat moss is low in nutrients and is not recommended. Plus, peat moss harvesting practices are questionable -
peat moss bogs are fragile ecosystems, and peat harvesting greatly disrupts these ecosystems.
Fertilizer. There are many different types of fertilizer, with different effects on soil and plant material. Some liken
fertilizer supplements to artificial life support and advocate soil building over fertilizing, but soil building takes
time. What we know for sure is that plants grow best with steady, uninterrupted growth, and adding organic
amendment is the best place to start. Consider using fertilizer as a once-a-year supplement, especially for leafy
crops which require more nitrogen.
Natural types of fertilizer: compost tea, guano, worm castings, bone meal, fish emulsion
To remember when applying fertilizer: Applications near seedlings can burn roots
Too much fertilizer can limit fruiting
Soil Tests. Determine the chemical composition of your soil. See slide #19 for details.
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32. There are really only two techniques for planting. You either start with seeds or start with a
seedling.
Seed sowing reduces your overall garden cost because seeds are inexpensive. You can start
your seeds indoors or outdoors depending on the plant type and time of year.
Outdoor sowing:
• Sow outdoors when soil conditions meet requirements of that particular seed’s
germination.
• Start with a smooth surface
• Create furrows with hoe or wood edge
• Drill into soil with a finger to a depth related to seed size
• Cover and gently pat soil to establish seed-soil contact
• Water
• Label rows
Transplanting:
• Seedlings MUST be hardened off at least 2 weeks in advance of transplanting
• Start with a smooth surface
• Mark spots for planting
• Trowel back soil
• Plant (with amendment if needed)
• Firmly pack soil
Hardening off means acclimatizing seedlings to harsher outdoor conditions. You can start
the process with an indoor fan, blowing it on your seedlings for 20 minutes, increasing to an
hour a day. After they begin to strengthen, transition to placing them outdoors for 20
minutes, building to a few hours a day. The seedlings will strengthen after at least 2 weeks to
and become ready for transplant.
Check out the CSU article http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/gr110416.html.
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33. When to plant, when to plant?
Each plant has a different soil and germination temperature requirement.
There are generally three planting times:
Early (cool) season
• hardy means 2-4 weeks before last frost date
• semi-hardy means 0-2 weeks before last frost date
• e.g. lettuces, pole beans
Mid (warm) season
• tender means at last frost date
• very tender means 2 weeks after last frost date
• e.g. strawberries, tomatoes, squash
Late (cool) season
• plant hardy and semi-hardy plants at least 6 weeks before the first frost
• great for succession planting
• e.g. lettuces, cabbage
Frost free dates along the Front Range generally means May 5th-October 10th
Check out this CSU factsheet (Garden Note #720) for more information:
http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/720.pdf
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34. Mulch is a surface covering applied to the garden bed. It’s benefits include:
• retains moisture
• prevents erosion
• keeps plants clean
• provides a place to walk
• creates a tidy look
• prevents crusting
• prevents weeds
• prevents compaction
Careful! Mulch may slow soil warming in the spring. It may keep the soil more moist
than you planned on, so adjust your irrigation accordingly. Mulch can be a harbor for
pests, but it can also be an attractant to birds and other predators who prey on pests.
Make sure to mulch thickly, about 3”, to discourage beetles. This is not for everybody,
but letting 2-3 of your chickens pick at your garden bed over the fall and winter will
get rid of insects, eggs, and seeds! Plus, a few chickens will add great fertilizer to
your soil. (Current city law bans chickens in residential zones, but some homes are on
agriculture zones that allow this use)
Organic vs. Inorganic
Plastic is not recommended. They warm soil, are expensive, need to be disposed of,
add nothing positive to the soil, and prevent water and oxygen from flowing between
soil layers.
Wood chips, straw, grass clippings, newspaper all decompose and add nutrients to
your soil. Apply 3 inches of material when plants are about 6 inches tall.
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36. Watering affects produce quality and yields. Vegetable gardens in CO generally require
between 1 inch and 1.5 inches per week, but pay attention to the weather and adjust
accordingly!
Critical Stages. Veggies do not go dormant like bluegrass, they produce best with steady and
uninterrupted growth. Maintain even water moisture. That said, water is most critical at the
following stages: (1) seed germination, (2) 1st few weeks of development, (3) after transplant,
(4) flower and fruit production.
Variables
These techniques require less water: mulch, closer spacing, clay soils, highly composted
These techniques require more water: raised beds and sandy soil
Other variables: Sun, heat, wind and soil type
Plant Choice High yield/small fruiting varieties need more water
Beans and corn use more water
Tomatoes and vine crops need less water, they’re often overwatered
Watering Schedule
Before seedlings emerge: Hand water , maintain consistent moisture!
After emergence: Back off to get good root establishment
Remember: Always physically check soil moisture, get your fingers in the dirt!
Temporary wilting is okay with some plants during the hottest part of day
Clay soil? Water less frequently but for longer periods
Sandy soil? Water more frequently for shorter periods
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37. Pests compete with garden crops and impair growth!
Solutions
Integrated pest management (IPM) for weed, disease, insect and critters. Use
multiple methods at the same time or in the same season.
• use the least invasive or toxic method
• use deterrents that work with nature
• make educated decisions
• industrial methods (chemicals) upset natural balance
Like with most things, Prevention is the key!
• Concentrate on plant health, not pests
• Give your plants assistance
• Companion planting (see slide on page #12)
• Natural repellants
• Onion family plants
• Marigolds
• Rosemary
• Avoid monocultures (large areas of same crop)
• Harvest on time to reduce likelihood of rotting plants that attract insects
• Rotate crops to reduce likelihood of diseases establishing in soil
• Row covers to keep out birds and insects
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38. Weeds compete for water, nutrients and light, and harbor pests. Use all of the
following techniques for weed management:
• Hoe
• Pull them (and get the ROOTS) when they are young
• Mulch
• Glyphosate (Round Up brand for perennial weeds) but not on an organic garden
• Nontoxic pre-emergent will prevent seed germination
Disease is generally a symptom of plant stress. Support is available! Contact a CSU
extension agent for insect and disease identification. Do not just spray everything
with a pesticide! There are some inexpensive alternatives to chemicals. For example,
an equal mixture of milk and water sprayed on leaves covered in powdery mildew will
reduce the mold’s spread.
Insects. Depending on the species, use multiple methods:
• Hand pick pests
• Biological controls -natural enemies are used (e.g. ladybugs eat aphids)
• Beneficial predators
• Bt bacteria and diatomaceous earth
• Natural pesticides: garlic spray, hot pepper wax, insecticidal soap, neem
Critters have favorite veggies. Don’t plant them! Alternatively, create a physical
barrier. Use fencing and crop covers.
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40. The Colorado Master Gardener Program offered through CSU Cooperative Extension
has Fruit Trees, Fruit, and Vegetable Classes among many others. Check out
http://cmg.colostate.edu/
Other public classes are available through CSU. Contact information at
www.ext.colostate.edu
Aurora Water Conservation offers many classes online and in the classroom. Check
out Xeriscape: Start to Finish, Meal Prep, Water Diversion, Irrigation 101, to name a
few. See all our offerings here:
www.auroragov.org/AuroraGov/Departments/AuroraWater/WaterConservation/Outd
oorWater/042654?ssSourceNodeId=658&ssSourceSiteId=621
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41. Edible Front Range Magazine is a quarterly magazine that celebrates the abundance of local,
seasonal food in along Colorado’s Front Range.
Grow Local Colorado “is a new project being developed by community leaders, gardeners,
locavores, farmers and businesses to help more people grow more food locally.” Its website
is a resource hub for information, expertise and partnerships for establishing a garden at
your home, business, or public space.
Denver Urban Gardens (DUG) assists with the development and management of over 80
community gardens in the metro area. “Primarily serving low to moderate income
populations in urban neighborhoods, DUG provides opportunities for participants to
supplement their diet with produce grown in nearby public gardens.”
Community Roots. “Boulder, Colorado's community farming project is the brain child of
founder Kipp Nash, who has devoted his attention to the ways in which we can connect our
communities to bring traditionally rural ways of living into an urban context. Kipp utilizies the
available land in urban settings (particularly front yards) to produce organically-grown
produce, which is then sold at the Boulder Farmer's Market or via a CSA membership
program (or given to those who have donated their land).”
Your Backyard Farmer provides “you with an organic vegetable farm right outside your door,
customized to your family's size and dining choices. We do the work, you enjoy the healthful
harvest! The farmer comes to you.”
Kitchen Gardeners International was founded in Maine but has spread internationally. “Our
mission is to empower individuals, families, and communities to achieve greater levels of
food self-reliance through the promotion of kitchen gardening, home-cooking, and
sustainable local food systems.” This organization has been influential in the White house
garden initiative.
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42. Contact Diana Denwood if you have:
1. Questions
2. Interest in volunteering at the city’s xeriscape and vegetable garden
3. Interest in starting or participating in a community garden
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