An Understanding Of Historical Photographs Through Interpretation Of

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Excerpt of An Interpretation of Historical Photographs Sophie Coker University of Rhode Island Textile Merchandising and Fashion Design

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Arcuri 1 Arcuri 9 Malia Arcuri Marie Aja-Herrera FASH 247-02 May 10, 2020FASH Test 3 17th and 18th Century During the 17th century France, England, and Spain continued to rule Europe; The late 16th century was all about a mannerist style, however, that soon morphed into a Baroque style and quickly spread like wildfire throughout Europe. During this time, early puritan settlers had just made it to America and set up roots in New England; Places such as Holland had developed a prosperous middle class and England relied on the aristocracy as they had in the past. At the time textile machinery was gradually evolving and a new loom was introduced. In the 17th century fashion plates were being produced in Paris, these plates are similar to a modern-day fashion magazine (picture Vogue painted on a large plate with a caption) and have helped historians set the scene for what garments and everyday life may have looked like back then. When it comes to men’s costumes not much shifted from the early 16th century to the 17th century, however, they began wearing cravats which were scarf like pieces that separates the shirts and were worn in place of collars. Instead of doublets which were very popular among men in earlier centuries they began wearing surouts and justacorps; these jackets had straight sleeves with cuffs and buttons down the front and the main difference was the fact that they covered the breeches completely. Breeches during the 17th century became slimmer and less full then other years and stopped right at the knee. Men’s wigs also grew much larger and were often worn in the natural colors they came in. Some things that stayed the same were shoes, men still preferred shoes over boots. Women’s costume during the 17th century saw no major changes as well; The necklines became squarer and less reveling and corsets became visible. Corsets became visible at the front of the bodice and formed a V at the waist, since they were visible it meant they became heavily decorated and elaborate. A new dress cut also appeared at this time, the bodice and skirt were cut together in one length from shoulder to hem; this became known as Mantua and historians believe it to have evolved from middle-eastern robes. The final garment was very full both in the front and back and was always worn over a corset and overskirt. If women were to wear it to a formal event then the skirt was pleated and belted in the back, often skirts were pulled to the back and fastened to have a draped effect on the body. Fig. 1 & 2. Mantua style dress (Maker unknown. Mantua, 1708. Silk and metal. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1991.6.1a, b. Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991. Source: The Met) We saw a change in the shape of women’s shoes during this time, they became more pointed, heels became higher, and the shoes became narrower. The design became more decorated and elaborate and leather became used more and more. Pantof.

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