2. FABRIC LENGTH
Fabric length is the distance from end to end, along the selvedge of a
fabric.
ISI suggested the following 3 methods to measure the length of a
fabric-
• By using a measuring table
• By using measuring scale
• By using a measuring machine (Trumeter)
4. Fabric width:
Fabric width is the distance from one selvedge to the other,
measured perpendicular to the length of the fabric.
Measurement of fabric width:
i. Sampling: Collection of samples from bulk production
ii. In the standard method, (B.S. Hand book) it is
recommended that the fabric should be exposed to a
standard atmosphere for at least 24 hours (Conditioning
at standard atmosphere) before final width
measurements are taken.
selvedge
5. iii. Measurements should take before and after
conditioning. Then it should be watched that if there is
any change in width.
iv. On a piece of cloth, 10 width measurements should be
made at points distributed at roughly equal distances
throughout the full length of the fabric piece.
v. If full length is not used a sample length not less than 1
yard should be used and width measurement should be
taken at least 3 places.
vi. Then, in both cases, mean width should be calculated.
6. • [Conditioning of test samples (Standard Atmospheric Condition):
It is recommended that the fabric should be conditioned in the
standard testing atmosphere at 652%RH and 202oC(or272oC,for
tropical countries) temperature, in a fully relaxed state.]
7. Fabric thickness:
Thickness is a parameter of a fabric which controls:
handle, creasing, thermal resistance, heaviness or stiffness in use and
many other properties of fabric.
Principle: The Principle of the measurement of fabric thickness is
expressed in B.S. Hand book as follows.
“Essentially, the determination of the thickness of a compressible
material such as a textile fabric consists of the precise measurement of
the distance between two plain parallel plates when they are
separated by the cloth, a known arbitrary pressure between the plates
are applied and maintained. It is convenient to regard one of the plates
as the pressure foot and the other as the anvil.”
8.
9. Instruments for measuring fabric thickness:
• Reynolds and Branson thickness tester.
• Heal’s thickness gauge.
• Shirley thickness gauge.
• Mag Ana thickness tester
10. Fabric thickness gauge
Pressure foot
Dial to indicate thickness
Weight pan
Indicator
Lifter to place the sample piece
Anvil
Support column
Load
11. Shirley thickness gauge:
For testing the thickness of compressible materials
like carpets, sponge rubber, foam, felts etc., Shirley
thickness gauge is used.
Specification/Description of the machine (Shirley):
1. Range of measurement: 0-2’’
2. Least count of dial gauge: 0.001’’
3. Area of pressure foot: 10 inch2, 1inch2
4. Load on the pressure foot: i. to 1 lb/inch2
i. ii. to 10 lb/inch2
Mag Ana thickness tester:
This instrument is suitable for most of fabrics like
woven fabric, knitted and layered fabric, pile fabric,
unsized, heavily sized fabric, coated fabric and resin
treated fabric.
Specifications of the machine (Mag Ana):
Range of measurement: 0.01to10mm
Least count of dial gauge: 0.01 mm
Diameter of anvil: 56mm
Diameter of pressure foot: 25mm, 10mm
Load on the pressure foot: i. 78.5 gm
ii.68.7 gm
12. Parts of the instrument:
• Pressure weight
• Weight pan
• Indicator
• Lifter to place the sample piece
• Dial to indicate thickness
• Support column
• Pressure foot
• Testing base (Anvil)
• Base
• Rubber bush to place on the table
13. Procedure:
• Sampling: Collection of samples from fabrics
Samples should be collected from at least three places from fabric e.g.
i. two samples from the two sides and
ii. one from the middle.
• The specimen should be conditioned at standard atmospheric condition.
• The pressure foot is lifted with the help of the lifting lever.
• The specimen is placed on the anvil just below the pressure foot and the pressure foot is gently
lowered on to the specimen.
• The reading of the dial gauge is noted to get the thickness of the specimen at normal load.
• Then, the weights are placed in the top pan of the tester in an increasing order and readings are
noted.
• The above procedure is repeated for at least five locations to obtain the value of thickness of
randomly distributed location over the whole of the sample.
• Selvedges, wrinkles, folds, knots, missing ends, missing picks, float, starting marks, irregularity
and some of visible defects should be avoided.
• The mean value of all the readings of thickness is calculated and the average thickness of the
sample is reported.
14. Points to be considered in measuring thickness:
i. The shape and size of pressure foot:
A circular foot of diameter inch is usually used. The ratio of foot diameter and cloth thickness
should not be less than 5: 1.
ii. Shape and size of Anvil:
If a circular anvil is used it should be at least 2 inch greater in diameter than the pressure foot.
Where the sample is larger than the anvil, the anvil should be surrounded with a suitable support
.e.g. a smooth plane board.
iii. Applied pressure:
Recommended pressure is specified e.g. 0.1 lb/inch2 or 10.0 lb /inch2. Suitable weights may be
added to pressure foot to obtain these pressures.
iv. Velocity of pressure foot:
The pressure foot should be lowered slowly on sample i.e. it needs slow and careful movement.
v. Time:
The thickness is read from the dial of the instrument when the movement of pointer has stopped.
vi. Indication of thickness:
A clock type dial is usually built into a thickness tester.
