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Color cosmetics and makeup products
Overview, Formula composition, trends and innovation
Dr.Naphatsorn Kumar
School of Cos...
Outline
• Overview of color cosmetics
• Formula composition
• Trends and innovation for makeup products
(Image source: Goo...
Introduction
• Makeup products are used since ancient time
• For improving appearance, sun protection and
medical applicat...
Ancient Asia
(Image source: Google Images)
Advances in makeup products
• Advances in pigments research
– New optical properties give distinctive look
• Advances in i...
Formulation
• Pigments play a major roles
• Classification of pigments
– Organic pigment
– Mineral pigment: Titanium dioxi...
Organic pigments
• Only those that allowed by FDA
• Organic pigments are created by the precipitation reaction of
soluble ...
Nacreous pigments
• or Pearlescents
• Create frosted appearance
• Divided into 3 classes
– Guanine or Natural pearl essenc...
Spring/Summer 2015 color trends
9(Roberts, 2015)
Fall winter 2015/2016 Color trends
• Nude tone
• Face contouring
• Soft focus
• “Enhance rather than erase”
(Harrington an...
Base makeup
• or Face makeup
• Helps make skin look natural and beautiful
• Masks imperfections on skin
• New pigments: pi...
Importance of Base makeups
(www.allnaturalskincare.com)
Foundations
• Dosage forms: liquid, gel, cream, solid cream, stick, cake,
mousse
• Popular foundations: o/w, si/w, oil-fre...
Products
14
(Image source: Google images)
• Common pigments:
– Mica: transperent, glow
– Titanium dioxide: good covering, UV protection but hard feel
– Silica: oil ...
Face powders
• Provide coverage complexion of
imperfections, oil control, matte finished
and smoothness
• Provides long la...
Face powder ingredients
• Talc and Serecite: spreadability
• Chalk and Kaolin: absorbability
• Magnesium stearate: adheren...
Functional base makeup
• Barrier improving makeup: contain ceramides
• Moisturizer makeup: moisturizing ingredients
• Anti...
Physicians formula Youthful wear spotless foundation SPF15
Sunscreen: Octinoxate 3%
Others: Isododecane, Cyclohexasiloxane...
Photogenic pigments
Hylamide Photography foundation
Fractionated Blurring Silica Suspension
• Nano fractions of silica-bas...
Products in trends
• Mousse texture in jar
• Mousse spray
• Cushion
• Spray
• Photogenic/Photoready
(Image source: Google ...
Cushions
(Image source: Google images)
Next cushion = Air cushion
(Yonwoo Co Ltd.)
Air cushion from Korea
For ingredients: http://asianskincareblog.blogspot.com/2014/12/sum37-air-rising-tf-dazzling-cushion...
Next step: Metal cushion
su:m 37 air rising TF glow cover metal cushion
VDL beauty metal cushion foundation
(Image source:...
Blusher
27(Source: Google images)
Point makeup
• Lip products
• Eye products
(Image source: Google images)
Lipsticks
• Consist of oils, waxes and pigments + other ingredients
• Waxes will give hardness to lipsticks and adhesive e...
Matte vs Gloss lipsticks
• For matte lipsticks
– Talc, Nylon, Silica, Polymethylmethacrylates are useful for matte look
• ...
Functional lipstick and lip care products
• Lipsticks that contain peptides that exert plumping effects
• Some are contain...
Examples
Duwop Lip venom
Hydrogenated Polyisobutane, Jojoba (Simmondsia
Chinensis) Seed Oil, Avocado (Persea Gratissma)
Oi...
Examples
MD formulation The Temps Perfecting Lip Plumper
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane,
Ethylen...
Trends in lip makeups
• Matte lip liquid
• Duo or Trio colors lipstick
• Lip tint in oil (Tint-in-oil lipgloss)
• Color ch...
(Image source: Google Images)
(Image source: Google Images)
(Image source: Google Images)
(Image source: Google Images)
YSL Tint-in-oil Lip gloss
Consists of apricot kernel oil, coriander fruit oil, jojoba seed oil
and Passiflora edulis seed ...
(Image source: Google Images)
(Image source: Google Images)
Eye products
• Eye products required extra care
• Prevention of contamination which may lead to the eye infection
• For ey...
Eye trends
• Metallics are the element to luxury look
• New palettes usually contain metallic shade
Novel eyeshadow
Rice starch eyeshadow from Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics
Ingredients:
Mica (CI 77019), Zinc Stearate, Capry...
Mascara
• Special product with particular development
• Choice of mascara depends on types of eyelashes and the
require ef...
Functional mascara
• Lash stimulator mascara with Biotinoyl tripeptide-1
• Example: Clarins Be-long mascara
Ingredients
Wa...
References
• Harrington L and Dobos KA. (2015). Beauty trends for fall/winter 2015-2016.
GCI September 2015;30-32.
• Koric...
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Overview, formulation and trends of color cosmetics

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Overview, formulation and trends of color cosmetics and makeup products

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Overview, formulation and trends of color cosmetics

  1. 1. Color cosmetics and makeup products Overview, Formula composition, trends and innovation Dr.Naphatsorn Kumar School of Cosmetic Science, MFU naphatsorn.kum@mfu.ac.th (Image source: Google Images)
  2. 2. Outline • Overview of color cosmetics • Formula composition • Trends and innovation for makeup products (Image source: Google Images)
  3. 3. Introduction • Makeup products are used since ancient time • For improving appearance, sun protection and medical applications (Image source: Google Images)
  4. 4. Ancient Asia (Image source: Google Images)
  5. 5. Advances in makeup products • Advances in pigments research – New optical properties give distinctive look • Advances in ingredients – Polymers that have distinctive feel • Functional makeup – Combination of makeup and care – Alphabet products: AA, BB, CC, DD, EE, etc. (Image source: Google Images)
  6. 6. Formulation • Pigments play a major roles • Classification of pigments – Organic pigment – Mineral pigment: Titanium dioxide and iron oxides – Nacreous pigment (Image source: Google Images)
  7. 7. Organic pigments • Only those that allowed by FDA • Organic pigments are created by the precipitation reaction of soluble dye with some minerals such as aluminium and calcium hydroxides • Called “Lakes” (Image source: Google Images)
  8. 8. Nacreous pigments • or Pearlescents • Create frosted appearance • Divided into 3 classes – Guanine or Natural pearl essences from fish scale – Bismuth oxychloride: Metallic look – Mica and surface-treated mica (Image source: Google Images)
  9. 9. Spring/Summer 2015 color trends 9(Roberts, 2015)
  10. 10. Fall winter 2015/2016 Color trends • Nude tone • Face contouring • Soft focus • “Enhance rather than erase” (Harrington and Dobos, 2015) (Image source: Google Images)
  11. 11. Base makeup • or Face makeup • Helps make skin look natural and beautiful • Masks imperfections on skin • New pigments: pigments that coated with silicone or fluoride oil will give specific sensory profile, some pigments have auto- adaptive effect with can adjust to light (Image source: Google Images)
  12. 12. Importance of Base makeups (www.allnaturalskincare.com)
  13. 13. Foundations • Dosage forms: liquid, gel, cream, solid cream, stick, cake, mousse • Popular foundations: o/w, si/w, oil-free, water-free (anhydrous) • Dosage form vs skin types – o/w and si/w: normal and oily – w/o and w/si: dry and normal – Oil-free: oily – Anhydrous: concealing effect
  14. 14. Products 14 (Image source: Google images)
  15. 15. • Common pigments: – Mica: transperent, glow – Titanium dioxide: good covering, UV protection but hard feel – Silica: oil control • A surface treated pigments: give extra sensory and special characteristics – Silicone treated: smooth feel but lipid miscible will collapse when contact with skin sebum – Perfluoroalkyl phosphate and fluoro compounds treated: excellent oil and water repellency – Polymer coated: for UV protection
  16. 16. Face powders • Provide coverage complexion of imperfections, oil control, matte finished and smoothness • Provides long lasting effect and absorbing extra oil from foundations • Face powders: loose powder and compact powder (Image source: Google images)
  17. 17. Face powder ingredients • Talc and Serecite: spreadability • Chalk and Kaolin: absorbability • Magnesium stearate: adherence • Zinc oxide and Titanium oxide: coverage • Pigments: color • Mica: improve skin feel, product adhesion and skin adhesion • Nylon and Polyamide: improve skin feel (Image source: Google images)
  18. 18. Functional base makeup • Barrier improving makeup: contain ceramides • Moisturizer makeup: moisturizing ingredients • Anti-aging makeup: antioxidants, anti-wrinkle agents • Sun protection: sunscreens • Whitening and lightening (Image source: Google Images)
  19. 19. Physicians formula Youthful wear spotless foundation SPF15 Sunscreen: Octinoxate 3% Others: Isododecane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Mica, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacr Copolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Ceramide 3, Olive Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Nylon-12, Polyamide-5, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Polysilicone -11 Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water, Phenoxyethanol. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides
  20. 20. Photogenic pigments Hylamide Photography foundation Fractionated Blurring Silica Suspension • Nano fractions of silica-based prisms create light confusion for reduced visible lines and pores immediately without looking like traditional makeup, while specifically creating a perfect backdrop to highlight facial features through the camera lens(Image source: Google Images)
  21. 21. Products in trends • Mousse texture in jar • Mousse spray • Cushion • Spray • Photogenic/Photoready (Image source: Google images)
  22. 22. Cushions (Image source: Google images)
  23. 23. Next cushion = Air cushion (Yonwoo Co Ltd.)
  24. 24. Air cushion from Korea For ingredients: http://asianskincareblog.blogspot.com/2014/12/sum37-air-rising-tf-dazzling-cushion.html
  25. 25. Next step: Metal cushion su:m 37 air rising TF glow cover metal cushion VDL beauty metal cushion foundation (Image source: Google Images)
  26. 26. Blusher 27(Source: Google images)
  27. 27. Point makeup • Lip products • Eye products (Image source: Google images)
  28. 28. Lipsticks • Consist of oils, waxes and pigments + other ingredients • Waxes will give hardness to lipsticks and adhesive effect to skin • Oils will give slippery and soft effect on application • Pigments: – Titanium dioxide: give opacity, intensity and coverage – Pearlescent: give color highlight (Image source: Google Images)
  29. 29. Matte vs Gloss lipsticks • For matte lipsticks – Talc, Nylon, Silica, Polymethylmethacrylates are useful for matte look • For gloss lipsticks – High level of waxy substances (Image source: Google Images)
  30. 30. Functional lipstick and lip care products • Lipsticks that contain peptides that exert plumping effects • Some are contain blood circulations stimulants
  31. 31. Examples Duwop Lip venom Hydrogenated Polyisobutane, Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) Seed Oil, Avocado (Persea Gratissma) Oil, Flavor (Aroma)*, Propylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Red 6 Lake (Cl 15850) * Claimed that it is cinnamon
  32. 32. Examples MD formulation The Temps Perfecting Lip Plumper Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Ozokerite Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Menthoxypropanediol, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Squalene, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Sorbitan, Isostearate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Atelocollagen, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Flavor
  33. 33. Trends in lip makeups • Matte lip liquid • Duo or Trio colors lipstick • Lip tint in oil (Tint-in-oil lipgloss) • Color changing lipstick • Lip tattoo (wrapping tint) (Image source: Google Images)
  34. 34. (Image source: Google Images)
  35. 35. (Image source: Google Images)
  36. 36. (Image source: Google Images)
  37. 37. (Image source: Google Images)
  38. 38. YSL Tint-in-oil Lip gloss Consists of apricot kernel oil, coriander fruit oil, jojoba seed oil and Passiflora edulis seed oil (Image source: Google Images)
  39. 39. (Image source: Google Images)
  40. 40. (Image source: Google Images)
  41. 41. Eye products • Eye products required extra care • Prevention of contamination which may lead to the eye infection • For eyeshadows: their formula compositions is comparable to face powder, with smaller pigment size and wider color range • For eyeliner: usually comes in liquid, with extra-fine pigment size
  42. 42. Eye trends • Metallics are the element to luxury look • New palettes usually contain metallic shade
  43. 43. Novel eyeshadow Rice starch eyeshadow from Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Ingredients: Mica (CI 77019), Zinc Stearate, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Lauroyl Lysine, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Lonicera caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera japonica Flower Extract. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Chromium Oxide Greens (CI 77288), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI 77510), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 42090).
  44. 44. Mascara • Special product with particular development • Choice of mascara depends on types of eyelashes and the require effects • Formulations can be water-based, solvent-based and hybrids • Film-former is the important ingredient in mascara, as its film will thicken, lengthen, or darken the eyelashes, according to the film-former types
  45. 45. Functional mascara • Lash stimulator mascara with Biotinoyl tripeptide-1 • Example: Clarins Be-long mascara Ingredients Water, Glyceryl stearate, Microcrystalline wax, Carnuaba wax, Castor oil, Stearic acid, Butylene glycol, Pentylene glycol, VP/Hexadecene copolymer, Palmitic acid, Acrylates copolymer, Polyvinyl alcohol, Glycerin, Aminomethyl propanediol, Sodium dehydroacetate, Panthenol, Biotinoyl tripeptide-1  CI77491, CI77492, CI77493, CI77891, CI77510, CI77742, CI77007, CI77163, CI77289, CI77288, CI42090, CI19140
  46. 46. References • Harrington L and Dobos KA. (2015). Beauty trends for fall/winter 2015-2016. GCI September 2015;30-32. • Korichi R and Trachant J-F. (2014). Decorative products in In Barel AO, Paye M and Maibach HI. eds. Handbook of cosmetic science and technology, 4th ed. pp. 439-451. • Mason S. (2015). The color essentials. GCI January/February 2015:18-21. • Mohiuddin O. (2014) Color cosmetics Trending toward multifunctionality. Cosm & Toil 129(1):18-20. • Rigano L. (2014). Cheek to cheek: deciphering stains and blushes. Cosm & Toil 129(1):54-59. • Roberts R. (2015). Spring/summer 2015 Color trends. GCI January/February 2015;22-24.

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