1. The Toxicology of
Personal Care Products
& Cosmetics
Cleveland State University, Fall 2005

2. The Problem
The Evidence
Recommendations

3. The Problem
The Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act
defines cosmetics as:
“articles other than soap, which are applied to the
human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance.”

4. This definition includes:
• Baby Products • Makeup
• Bath items • Mouthwash
• Deodorant • Nail care
• Fragrances • Skin care
• Hair care • Toothpaste
Americans spend about $8 billion a year on cosmetics –
some 85% contain synthetic fragrances.

5. What’s wrong with fragrances?
• Herbs, flowers, spices
• Pheromones (musk)
• Crude oil isolates -
benzene, toluene,
naphthalene, phenol and
xylene
• Byproduct – VOCs
• Indoor Air pollutant

6. Fragrances and Indoor Air Quality
VOCs
• Central nervous system
• Allergies, asthma & migraines
• Hypersensitivity – 15%
- Initial exposure, re-exposure
- Degenerative diseases
- Neurological disorders

7. In the 1990’s, research efforts increase
• MCS causes debate in the medical community
• Groups aim to prove link between chemical
exposures and health problems
• Strategy – use government / industry data

8. The Evidence
Environmental Working Group
• Several in-depth reports
• Reviewed 7,000+ ingredients; 14,108 products
– crossed w/scientific and regulatory databases
– 11% tested for safety
– Hundreds deemed “unsafe for use in cosmetics”
– Many known to cause cancer, birth defects, etc.
– Proposition 65, OSHA, EPA, NIH, Superfund

9. Other studies used
• Centers for Disease Control
– Third National Report
on Human Exposure
to Environmental Chemicals
• Healthcare without Harm
– Not Too Pretty
– Pretty Nasty
• All find toxins in cosmetics

10. Breast Cancer and Cosmetics
• 1 in 7
• Paraben preservatives
& the estrogen patch
• Alcohol & breast cancer
• Increases activity of ER+
• Fragrances, 80% by volume
• Dose = 30 glasses of table wine

11. Other cancer concerns
• Cosmetics grade talc – ovarian cancer
• Formaldehyde in nail polish
• Ethylacrylate - Maybelline mascara
– Unsafe according to Intl Fragrance Association
• Coal Tar Dye - Neutrogena
• Bladder cancer & non-hogkins lymphoma

12. Neurotoxins
• Central nervous function
• Shampoos – MIT
• Nail polish - formaldehyde
• Neurological disorders
ADD/ADHD, autism,
cerebral palsy, dyslexia,
MS, Parkinson’s,

13. Reproductive Effects
• Teratogens, Mutagens,
Endocrine Disruptors
• Phthalates – Purpose
– Genital abnormalities and
thelarche (68%, 6-24 mos)
• Musk – PBT
– Passes from mother to child
– German U studies –
damages cellular DNA

14. Other environmental effects
• Modern wastewater and
sewage treatment
methods can’t remove
fragrance compounds
• Toxic burden for animals
• Petroleum =
environmental effects

15. Are my products going to hurt me?
poi·son - A substance taken internally or applied
externally that is injurious to health or dangerous to life.
• Cumulative /combined effects
• Low-dose effects
• Timing
• Genetic vulnerability
• Bioaccumulative chemicals
should be avoided

17. Policies
FDA is the regulating agency
– Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act
• Requires no pre-market safety testing
–Fair Packaging & Labeling Act
• Labeling exemption, trade secrets, “fragrance”

18. Cozy for industry
• No law requires product registration, ingredient data
or even reports on product-related injuries or illness.
• Industry panel finds 9 ingredients unsafe in 30 years
• FDA and other regulated industries
– Drugs, foods
– “Revolving door” hiring

19. What do industry trade groups have to say?

20. Latest news
• EU bans ingredients
– (U.S. companies provide alternatives)
• Arnold signs law
– California Safe Cosmetics Act November 2005
• Calvin Klein’s “Eternity”

21. More changes needed
• Consumers rely on FDA, the agency
charged with regulation and public
notification
• Enforce federal code requiring products
with untested ingredients to carry warning
• Provide full disclosure

23. Precautionary principle
“Preventative anticipation.“
Willingness to take action in advance of scientific
proof on the grounds that further delay will prove
costly to society and nature, and in the longer term, is
selfish and unfair to future generations.