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The Toxicology of
Personal Care Products
& Cosmetics




Cleveland State University, Fall 2005
The Problem


The Evidence


Recommendations
The Problem

        The Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act
             defines cosmetics as:

“articles other than soap, which are applied to the
human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
    attractiveness, or altering the appearance.”
This definition includes:
    •   Baby Products       •   Makeup
    •   Bath items          •   Mouthwash
    •   Deodorant           •   Nail care
    •   Fragrances          •   Skin care
    •   Hair care           •   Toothpaste

Americans spend about $8 billion a year on cosmetics –
       some 85% contain synthetic fragrances.
What’s wrong with fragrances?

• Herbs, flowers, spices
• Pheromones (musk)
• Crude oil isolates -
  benzene, toluene,
  naphthalene, phenol and
  xylene
• Byproduct – VOCs
• Indoor Air pollutant
Fragrances and Indoor Air Quality

VOCs
• Central nervous system
• Allergies, asthma & migraines
• Hypersensitivity – 15%
   - Initial exposure, re-exposure
   - Degenerative diseases
   - Neurological disorders
In the 1990’s, research efforts increase

• MCS causes debate in the medical community

• Groups aim to prove link between chemical
  exposures and health problems

• Strategy – use government / industry data
The Evidence
  Environmental Working Group

• Several in-depth reports
• Reviewed 7,000+ ingredients; 14,108 products
   – crossed w/scientific and regulatory databases
  –   11% tested for safety
  –   Hundreds deemed “unsafe for use in cosmetics”
  –   Many known to cause cancer, birth defects, etc.
  –   Proposition 65, OSHA, EPA, NIH, Superfund
Other studies used

                     • Centers for Disease Control
                        – Third National Report
                          on Human Exposure
                          to Environmental Chemicals
                     • Healthcare without Harm
                        – Not Too Pretty
                        – Pretty Nasty
                     • All find toxins in cosmetics
Breast Cancer and Cosmetics
• 1 in 7
• Paraben preservatives
 & the estrogen patch
• Alcohol & breast cancer
   • Increases activity of ER+
   • Fragrances, 80% by volume
   • Dose = 30 glasses of table wine
Other cancer concerns
• Cosmetics grade talc – ovarian cancer

• Formaldehyde in nail polish

• Ethylacrylate - Maybelline mascara
  – Unsafe according to Intl Fragrance Association


• Coal Tar Dye - Neutrogena
     • Bladder cancer & non-hogkins lymphoma
Neurotoxins
              • Central nervous function
                • Shampoos – MIT
                • Nail polish - formaldehyde
              • Neurological disorders
                ADD/ADHD, autism,
                cerebral palsy, dyslexia,
                MS, Parkinson’s,
Reproductive Effects
• Teratogens, Mutagens,
  Endocrine Disruptors

• Phthalates – Purpose
   – Genital abnormalities and
     thelarche (68%, 6-24 mos)


• Musk – PBT
   – Passes from mother to child
   – German U studies –
     damages cellular DNA
Other environmental effects
               • Modern wastewater and
                 sewage treatment
                 methods can’t remove
                 fragrance compounds

               • Toxic burden for animals

               • Petroleum =
                 environmental effects
Are my products going to hurt me?
poi·son - A substance taken internally or applied
externally that is injurious to health or dangerous to life.

  •   Cumulative /combined effects
  •   Low-dose effects
  •   Timing
  •   Genetic vulnerability
  •   Bioaccumulative chemicals
      should be avoided
Policies
 FDA is the regulating agency

   – Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act
      • Requires no pre-market safety testing


   –Fair Packaging & Labeling Act
      • Labeling exemption, trade secrets, “fragrance”
Cozy for industry
• No law requires product registration, ingredient data
  or even reports on product-related injuries or illness.

• Industry panel finds 9 ingredients unsafe in 30 years

• FDA and other regulated industries
   – Drugs, foods
   – “Revolving door” hiring
What do industry trade groups have to say?
Latest news
 • EU bans ingredients
   – (U.S. companies provide alternatives)


 • Arnold signs law
   – California Safe Cosmetics Act November 2005


 • Calvin Klein’s “Eternity”
More changes needed
• Consumers rely on FDA, the agency
  charged with regulation and public
  notification

• Enforce federal code requiring products
  with untested ingredients to carry warning

• Provide full disclosure
Precautionary principle

               “Preventative anticipation.“
  Willingness to take action in advance of scientific
  proof on the grounds that further delay will prove
costly to society and nature, and in the longer term, is
        selfish and unfair to future generations.
The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics
The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics
The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics
The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics

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The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics

  • 1. The Toxicology of Personal Care Products & Cosmetics Cleveland State University, Fall 2005
  • 3. The Problem The Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act defines cosmetics as: “articles other than soap, which are applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.”
  • 4. This definition includes: • Baby Products • Makeup • Bath items • Mouthwash • Deodorant • Nail care • Fragrances • Skin care • Hair care • Toothpaste Americans spend about $8 billion a year on cosmetics – some 85% contain synthetic fragrances.
  • 5. What’s wrong with fragrances? • Herbs, flowers, spices • Pheromones (musk) • Crude oil isolates - benzene, toluene, naphthalene, phenol and xylene • Byproduct – VOCs • Indoor Air pollutant
  • 6. Fragrances and Indoor Air Quality VOCs • Central nervous system • Allergies, asthma & migraines • Hypersensitivity – 15% - Initial exposure, re-exposure - Degenerative diseases - Neurological disorders
  • 7. In the 1990’s, research efforts increase • MCS causes debate in the medical community • Groups aim to prove link between chemical exposures and health problems • Strategy – use government / industry data
  • 8. The Evidence Environmental Working Group • Several in-depth reports • Reviewed 7,000+ ingredients; 14,108 products – crossed w/scientific and regulatory databases – 11% tested for safety – Hundreds deemed “unsafe for use in cosmetics” – Many known to cause cancer, birth defects, etc. – Proposition 65, OSHA, EPA, NIH, Superfund
  • 9. Other studies used • Centers for Disease Control – Third National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals • Healthcare without Harm – Not Too Pretty – Pretty Nasty • All find toxins in cosmetics
  • 10. Breast Cancer and Cosmetics • 1 in 7 • Paraben preservatives & the estrogen patch • Alcohol & breast cancer • Increases activity of ER+ • Fragrances, 80% by volume • Dose = 30 glasses of table wine
  • 11. Other cancer concerns • Cosmetics grade talc – ovarian cancer • Formaldehyde in nail polish • Ethylacrylate - Maybelline mascara – Unsafe according to Intl Fragrance Association • Coal Tar Dye - Neutrogena • Bladder cancer & non-hogkins lymphoma
  • 12. Neurotoxins • Central nervous function • Shampoos – MIT • Nail polish - formaldehyde • Neurological disorders ADD/ADHD, autism, cerebral palsy, dyslexia, MS, Parkinson’s,
  • 13. Reproductive Effects • Teratogens, Mutagens, Endocrine Disruptors • Phthalates – Purpose – Genital abnormalities and thelarche (68%, 6-24 mos) • Musk – PBT – Passes from mother to child – German U studies – damages cellular DNA
  • 14. Other environmental effects • Modern wastewater and sewage treatment methods can’t remove fragrance compounds • Toxic burden for animals • Petroleum = environmental effects
  • 15. Are my products going to hurt me? poi·son - A substance taken internally or applied externally that is injurious to health or dangerous to life. • Cumulative /combined effects • Low-dose effects • Timing • Genetic vulnerability • Bioaccumulative chemicals should be avoided
  • 16.
  • 17. Policies FDA is the regulating agency – Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act • Requires no pre-market safety testing –Fair Packaging & Labeling Act • Labeling exemption, trade secrets, “fragrance”
  • 18. Cozy for industry • No law requires product registration, ingredient data or even reports on product-related injuries or illness. • Industry panel finds 9 ingredients unsafe in 30 years • FDA and other regulated industries – Drugs, foods – “Revolving door” hiring
  • 19. What do industry trade groups have to say?
  • 20. Latest news • EU bans ingredients – (U.S. companies provide alternatives) • Arnold signs law – California Safe Cosmetics Act November 2005 • Calvin Klein’s “Eternity”
  • 21. More changes needed • Consumers rely on FDA, the agency charged with regulation and public notification • Enforce federal code requiring products with untested ingredients to carry warning • Provide full disclosure
  • 22.
  • 23. Precautionary principle “Preventative anticipation.“ Willingness to take action in advance of scientific proof on the grounds that further delay will prove costly to society and nature, and in the longer term, is selfish and unfair to future generations.