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Pure materials. Pure benefit. American Apparel Producers' Network Tuesday May 4, 2010 “ Sustainability in the Textile Value Chain”
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda
bluesign technologies ag ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],The company
bluesign technologies ag ,[object Object],[object Object],Vision bluesign ®  standard Textile manu- facturers Fibre manu- facturers Chemical Suppliers Brands &  Retailers
bluesign ®  member ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Brands and retailers
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda
 
 
 
 
 
World resources Mass flow Global Mass Flows Past Present Future unchangend development freezing current state corporate improvements and private economisation factor 10 Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules
 
 
 
 
 
 
What you cannot see at the end-product Waste water treatment
What you cannot see at the end-product Exhaust-air
What you cannot see at the end-product Work place conditions
What you cannot see at the end-product Waste management
What you cannot see at the end-product Efficiency in processing
What you cannot see at the end-product ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Use of chemicals
What you cannot see at the end-product ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],End-of-pipe situation
Textile production chain ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Need for chemicals
 
Retailer/Brand situation Strict control mechanism in the supply chain Consumers assume that retailers are managing all risks (EHS, ethical) on their behalf ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],"Brand Protection" Consequence Brand ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
What happened in the last 20 years?
Current “ECO” approaches … ,[object Object],…  the Solution? Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
Analyses show ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Harmful substances in textile products!
Approach by brands and retailers ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs
Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet l
Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet ll
Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet lll
If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care! Consequence Practical experience
Agenda ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
The bluesign ®  standard ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Worldwide industry standard
The bluesign ®  standard ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Set-up
EHS Aspects …  …  in textile production work place ground-water  contamination Soil contamination NO x CO 2 UFP‘s CH 4 SO 2 water raw material energy waste water waste products emission noise
Conventional approach Focus on end-product End-product Brands need more information Textile production chain Blackbox STOP
bluesign ®  approach bluesign ®  standard Input Process / Technology Focus on input streams  End-product Textile production chain Blackbox Monitoring & Optimisation STOP STOP
Input stream management ,[object Object],The five pillars of the bluesign ®  standard
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],The bluesign ®  standard in summary Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda
 
Environmental Impacts … …  of the textile industry ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Water
Resource management ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Resource inflation ric i  = 1.0   1.55 1.0   1.77 1.0   2.24 1.0  1.67 1.0  2.61 BAT current
Resource management Cost inflation BAT rif 2.01 Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m 3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh cif 2.09 Cost savings 897’000 €
Examples from manufacturing sites Resource management Manufacturer Cost inflation factor Savings expected Savings realized ROI of bluesign in Knitwear EU 1.05 587.460.-€ ca. 250.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.06 242.587.-€ ca. 170.000.-€ < 2 Months Woven’s Asia 1.07 354.270.-€ ca. 240.000.-€ < 1 Month Knitwear Asia 1.07 106.260.-€ ca.  80.000.-€ < 4 Months Knitwear Asia 1.56 565.000.-€ ca. 340.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s Asia 1.22 486.000.-€ ca. 400.000.-€ <3 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.09 238.000.-€ ca. 190.000.-€ 3 Months Knitwear Asia 1.32 268.670.-€ ca. 220.000.-€ 2 Months Woven’s EU 1.10 532.070.-€ ca. 356.000.-€ < 1 Month Woven’s Asia 1.48 4.245.980.-€ ca.2.450.000.-€ <1 Week Knitwear EU 1.23 328.900.-€ ca. 100.000.-€ < 2 Month
Example from manufacturing site ,[object Object],[object Object],Resource savings
 
 
Everest Textile Co., Ltd. ,[object Object],[object Object],Progress after screening
Resource management Moving toward BAT Resource Inflation Factor (rif) Cost Inflation Factor (cif) Initial-Screening Optimum 0 1 2 3 1 1. Re-Screening 2. Re-Screening 2.5 1.75
Comparison current practice – BAT Cotton knits (batch) 591 325 30 60.3 27.2 1.64 Worst Average BAT Water [l/kg] Total Energy [kWh/kg]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda
bluesign ®  screening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Full factory analysis
bluesign ®  screening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Outcome
bluesign ®  applications ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Behind the scenes
 
bluesign ®  bluetool – the science gateway ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits
bluesign ®  bluefinder – the advanced search engine ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits
bluesign ®  blueguide – the comprehensive database ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda
End-of-Life Amount of waste (Switzerland) Source: NZZ Folio 709 kg per person and year Textiles correspond to 0.9 % of total waste
End-of-Life Options for textiles today ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
End-of-Life Example re-use
End-of-Life ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Examples recycling
End-of-Life ,[object Object],[object Object],Basic principles for recycling
Recycling Limits for recycling
Composting ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Limits for composting
„ End-of-Life“ thinking ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Consequence for design
 
Conclusion ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Reducing the ecological footprint
Thank you bluesign technologies ag EMPA Building Lerchenfeldstrasse 5 CH-9014 St. Gallen Fon  +41 (0) 71 272 29 90 Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99 [email_address] www.bluesign.com

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AAPN Miami 2010

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  • 2. Pure materials. Pure benefit. American Apparel Producers' Network Tuesday May 4, 2010 “ Sustainability in the Textile Value Chain”
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  • 13. World resources Mass flow Global Mass Flows Past Present Future unchangend development freezing current state corporate improvements and private economisation factor 10 Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules
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  • 20. What you cannot see at the end-product Waste water treatment
  • 21. What you cannot see at the end-product Exhaust-air
  • 22. What you cannot see at the end-product Work place conditions
  • 23. What you cannot see at the end-product Waste management
  • 24. What you cannot see at the end-product Efficiency in processing
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  • 30. What happened in the last 20 years?
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  • 37. If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care! Consequence Practical experience
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  • 41. EHS Aspects … … in textile production work place ground-water contamination Soil contamination NO x CO 2 UFP‘s CH 4 SO 2 water raw material energy waste water waste products emission noise
  • 42. Conventional approach Focus on end-product End-product Brands need more information Textile production chain Blackbox STOP
  • 43. bluesign ® approach bluesign ® standard Input Process / Technology Focus on input streams End-product Textile production chain Blackbox Monitoring & Optimisation STOP STOP
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  • 50. Resource management Cost inflation BAT rif 2.01 Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m 3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh cif 2.09 Cost savings 897’000 €
  • 51. Examples from manufacturing sites Resource management Manufacturer Cost inflation factor Savings expected Savings realized ROI of bluesign in Knitwear EU 1.05 587.460.-€ ca. 250.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.06 242.587.-€ ca. 170.000.-€ < 2 Months Woven’s Asia 1.07 354.270.-€ ca. 240.000.-€ < 1 Month Knitwear Asia 1.07 106.260.-€ ca. 80.000.-€ < 4 Months Knitwear Asia 1.56 565.000.-€ ca. 340.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s Asia 1.22 486.000.-€ ca. 400.000.-€ <3 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.09 238.000.-€ ca. 190.000.-€ 3 Months Knitwear Asia 1.32 268.670.-€ ca. 220.000.-€ 2 Months Woven’s EU 1.10 532.070.-€ ca. 356.000.-€ < 1 Month Woven’s Asia 1.48 4.245.980.-€ ca.2.450.000.-€ <1 Week Knitwear EU 1.23 328.900.-€ ca. 100.000.-€ < 2 Month
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  • 56. Resource management Moving toward BAT Resource Inflation Factor (rif) Cost Inflation Factor (cif) Initial-Screening Optimum 0 1 2 3 1 1. Re-Screening 2. Re-Screening 2.5 1.75
  • 57. Comparison current practice – BAT Cotton knits (batch) 591 325 30 60.3 27.2 1.64 Worst Average BAT Water [l/kg] Total Energy [kWh/kg]
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  • 67. End-of-Life Amount of waste (Switzerland) Source: NZZ Folio 709 kg per person and year Textiles correspond to 0.9 % of total waste
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  • 72. Recycling Limits for recycling
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  • 77. Thank you bluesign technologies ag EMPA Building Lerchenfeldstrasse 5 CH-9014 St. Gallen Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90 Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99 [email_address] www.bluesign.com