Milady Ch 17 Hairstyling

1. History. Tools. Wet Styling. Heat Styling. Updos
MILADY
HAIRSTYLING

2. THE WHY??
• Historical and technical knowledge of
hairstyling will prepare you for the
constant changes of fashion
• Inspiration is often found in the past.
• Hairstyling is a foundational skill
that allows you to articulate
creativity and deliver a specific
outcome
• Guests rely on you to teach them -
how to style it for their lifestyle and
fashion needs. Hairstyling skills will
allow you and your guest to stay
contemporary, unique & modern

3. DAY 1- Fingerwaves, Pincurls, Rollers
DAY 2- Thermal, Tools, Products
DAY 3- Hair Pressing
DAY 4- Upstyles & Review

5. Factors that may influence setting and
dressing services:
• Hair cut
• Hair growth patterns
• Hair length
• Hair density
• Head and face shape
• Hair texture
• Hair elasticity
• The occasion for which the style is required
Each of these factors will need to be discussed
Applying the correct techniques when setting hair
will let you know if you need volume, lift and or
curl
Hair can be rolled to sit on base or off base and the
wind can be directed to suit the style
CONSULTATION

6. Wet-Styling Tools
• Combs
• Brushes- boar bristle/teasing/nylon
• Rollers (short, medium, or long)
• Clips (duckbills, double-pronged,
single-pronged)
• Pins
• Clamps

7. Shaping and directing the hair into
alternate parallel waves using
fingers, comb, waving lotion, and
hairpins or clips
FINGERWAVING
• Foundation of hairstyling; evolved
• Finger dexterity, strength, consistency
• Wet, Dry comb out, thermal set
• Made famous by Bette Davis; Had the first
“celebrity” hairstylist
• “Jazz age” loved the fashion but frightened the
conservative
• Short hair was more “acceptable "when softened
& feminine
• Egg whites were often used to give sheen until
proper product were developed

8. • Makes hair pliable and holds it in place
• Made of karaya gum( Indian Gum )- Tree
from India; thickener/binder
• Diluted for use on fine hair
• Concentrated for regular or coarse hair
• Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry
• Avoid excessive amounts of
FINGERWAVING LOTION

9. HORIZONTAL-
parallel to floor
VERTICAL-
up & down

10. PINCURLS
• Damp curl held in place by a pin
• Wet hair- long lasting set because of
BOND formation
• Dry hair- Cool down of iron work
• Longevity
Serve as the basis for patterns,
lines, waves, curls & rolls

11. • Parts of a Curl
• Base- Stationary; Immoveable
• Stem- Between; Gives direction &
mobility
• Circle-Size of circle is width of
wave
PINCURLS
• Anchoring Pincurls- Pincurl clips or bobby pins
• Try NOT to clip both sides
• Cotton can be used in between prong & scalp

12. • No-stem
Min Mobility
On base
Long lasting
• Half-stem
Med Mobility
Half base
• Full-stem
Greatest
movement
Off base
PINCURLS- MOBILITY- Amount of movement; determined BY STEM
NO
STEM
HALF
STEM
FULL
STEM

13. • Molded in circular movement for curl
• Begin at open end of a shaping.
PINCURLS- Shaping for placement

14. • Open-center curls
Smooth/Uniform
• Closed-center curls
Decrease in size
PINCURLS

15. • Forward movement-
Towards face
• Reverse movement-
Away from face
• Upward movement-
Toward top of head
• Downward movement
• Clockwise
• Counterclockwise
PINCURLS
UPWARD
UPWARD&
DOWNWARD
• Opposite directions create a wave

16. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
• Rectangular base-
Front hairline; upswept
• Triangular base-
Fringe; no splits
• Arc base- C Shape,
Half moon; Carved from
shaping; cure of head
• Square base-
Curly hair, not a lot of
volume; need to stagger

17. Pin Curl Techniques
• Ribboning-
Thumb & back of
comb; Creates
tension
• Waves-
Opposite direction

18. • Carved/sculptured curls-
Sliced from shaping without lifting; Can ribbon
• Ridge curls-
Behind fingerwave
• Skip waves-
Usually on side of
head
Pin Curl Techniques

19. Creating Volume with Pin Curls
• Cascade curls- Stand up curls
Height; 90 degrees
• Barrel curls- Large center
opening
Rectangular stand up; mimics
marcel iron

20. Rollers VS Pincurls
• Speed
• Increased strength
• Greater creativity
• Rollers are a much faster way to set the hair- 1 Roller is equivalent to 2-4
pincurls
• Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension, which gives a stronger and
longer-lasting set.
• Variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative
possibilities for an

21. Parts of a Roller Curl
• Base- Where roller is placed;
Same length & width of
roller; Determines VOLUME
• Stem- Gives direction &
mobility
• Curl- Size of curl; Wrapped
around roller

22. Choosing Roller Size
• C-shaped curl-
1 turn around
• Wave-
1 ½ turns around
• Curls-
2 ½ turns
around

23. ROLLER SET/ BASE CONTROL
ON ON HALF
OFF
OFF
HALF
OFF
OFF
135
90
45 • Base- hair at scalp
• Placement = volume
• Longer hold then marcel
• Tool size determines section size
• Proper tension
• Proper product based on texture & desired end result
• Great foundation for upstyling

24. Roller Placement
• On base-
Higher than 90
• Half base-
90
• Off base-
Below 45
• Indentation
Opposite directions meet
Recession

25. Rollers
• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only;
heated electrically or by steam,
thermal protectant
• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair
only for 5 to 10 minutes (not
allowed in some states); wet hair
can snag

26. Back-Combing Technique
Teasing, Matting, Ratting, French Lacing
• Section hair.
• Insert comb.
• Press comb to scalp.
• Create cushion base.
• Repeat for volume.
• Smooth hair- 45 degree angle;
lightly over surface

27. Back-Brushing Technique
Ruffling
• Hold strand.
• Place brush.
• Roll brush.
• Turn brush.
• Blend hair.
• Complete styling.

28. REVIEW
• What is the process of shaping hair into alternate
parallel waves?
• What makes fingerwaves more pliable?
• What are the 3 parts of a curl?
• What is the mobility of a curl?
• What is the difference between Open center curls
and Closed?
• Which base is good for the front hairline?
• Why do need to ribbon the hair?
• How many times does the hair need to wrap around
a roller for a full curl?
• What is an indentation?
• What are some other terms for backcombing?

29. • Keeps curly hair smooth and straight while
retaining a beautiful shape.
• Hair is wrapped around the head to give it a
smooth, rounded contour, similar to that attained
with rollers
• Wet hair responds better when relaxed
• Short hair is “Molding”
• When wrapping hair, very little volume is
attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted
• Height can be achieved by placing large rollers
directly at the crown, with the remainder of the
hair
Hair Wrapping

30. Thermal Styling
• The process of drying and styling
damp hair in one operation
• Today’s women desire styles that
require less time and effort to
maintain.
What we think we look like
VS What we actually look like

31. Blow-Dry Styling Tools
• Blow-dryer
• Handle
• Slotted nozzle
• Small fan
• Heating element
• Speed/heat controls
• Diffuser

32. Combs, Picks, Clips
• Length and spacing of the teeth vary
from one comb to another
• Teeth that are close remove definition
from the curl and create a smooth
surface
• Widely spaced teeth shape larger
sections of hair for a more textured
surface
• Combs with a pick at one end lift the
hair away from the head.

33. Brushes
• Classic styling brush- Anti static, little
volume, nylon
• Paddle brush- Long hair, cushion release,
vertical brushing
• Grooming brush- Boar/Nylon; distribute
oil; polish
• Vent brush- Speeds drying; add lift
• Round brush- Natural/ Mixed; sizes
• Teasing brush

34. Styling Products
• Foam or mousse
• Gels
• Liquid gels or texturizers
Molding
• Straightening gels
• Volumizers
• Pomade or wax
• Silicone shiners
• Hair spray or finishing
spray

35. Blow-Dry Cautions
• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.
• Direct air flow.
• Direct hot air away from scalp.
• Move in back-and-forth motion.
• Partially dry before style blow-drying.

36. Blow-Dry Procedures
• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair
• Diffusing long, curly hair
• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume
• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight
style

37. Thermal Hairstyling
• Methods of waving and curling straight or
pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special
manipulative techniques
• Temperature of Iron depends on TEXTURE

38. Thermal Irons
• Four parts
• Rod handle
• Shell handle
• Barrel or rod
• Shell

39. Flat Irons
• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across
• Used to create smooth, straight styles
• Edge closest to Stylist if the INNER EDGE

40. Testing Thermal Irons
• Heat iron.
• Clamp heated iron over
tissue.
• Note if paper scorches.
• Let cool as needed.

41. Care of Thermal Irons
• Wash with soap and water.
• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.
• Baking soda & Hydrogen Peroxide;
soft sponge
• Relaxer
• Oil joint.
• Wrapping cords

42. Thermal Iron Comb
• Hard rubber, Carbon
• Size
• Holding comb

43. Practice with Cold Irons
• Grasp handles with dominant hand.
• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front
and thumb in front of upper handle.

44. Other Types of Curls
• End curls

45. • Volume-base thermal curls
• Max lift
• Section off base.
• Hold strand at 135-degree
angle.
• Slide iron over strand.
• Wrap strand over rod with
medium tension.
• Maintain position for 5
seconds.
• Roll curl and place on base.
Other Types of Curls

46. • Full-base thermal curls
– Section off base.
– Hold strand at 125-degree angle.
– Slide iron over strand.
– Wrap strand with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place firmly on base.
– Strong curl
– Directly in center of base
Other Types of Curls

47. • Half-base thermal curls
• Moderate lift
• Half base
• Section off base.
• Hold hair at 90-degree angle.
• Slide iron over hair strand.
• Wrap strand over rod with medium
tension.
• Maintain position for 5 seconds.
• Roll curl and place it half on base.
Other Types of Curls

48. Other Types of Curls
• Off-base thermal curls
• Low volume
• Section off base.
• Hold hair at 70-degree
angle.
• Slide iron over strand.
• Wrap strand over rod
with medium tension.
• Maintain position for 5
seconds.
• Roll curl and place off
base.

49. Safety Measures
• Get instructions for use of irons.
• Keep irons clean.
• Do not overheat.
• Test temperature.
• Handle carefully.
• Place hot irons in safe place to cool.
• Don’t place handles too close to heater.

50. • Properly balance irons in heater.
• Use hard rubber or nonflammable
combs.
• Do not use metal combs.
• Place comb between scalp and
iron.
• Curl only clean, dry hair.
• Avoid fishhooks.
• Use gentle setting on chemically-
treated hairair.
Safety Measures

51. REVIEW
• What is the process of drying and styling
damp hair in 1 process?
• What are some examples of brushes?
• What are some examples of products?
• What should you base the temperature of
your iron on?
• What kind of comb should you use?
• What is thermal hairstyling?
• What are some guidelines for Thermal
safety?
• What sizes do flat irons come in?
• What are some types of base placement for
the marcel?

52. Thermal Hair Straightening-
Hair Pressing
• Soft press- Removes 50-60%; one side
• Medium press- Removes 60-75%; 1 time each side
• Hard press - Removes all curl; twice to each side

53. Analysis of Hair and Scalp
• Wave pattern of hair
• Length of hair
• Texture of hair
• Feel of hair- wiry, soft
• Elasticity of hair
• Shade of hair- Lightener?
• Condition of hair
• Condition of scalp- Abrasions?

54. Texture and Feel of Hair
• Coarse, overly curly
• Medium
• Fine
• Wiry- less sebum

55. Conditioning Treatments
• Cosmetic preparations
• Thorough brushing
• Scalp massage- make scalp
more flexible

56. Pressing Combs
• Construction
• Handles- Wood; not absorb heat
• Teeth- More space = less straight
• Tempering the comb
• Heat comb.
• Remove comb.
• Coat in oil/petroleum
• Cool and rinse to remove excess oil
• Burns off any polish from manufacturer-
better heat distribution

57. • Heating the comb- gas, electric
• Testing the temperature
• Attachment
• Cleaning the comb
Pressing Combs

58. • Cleaning the comb
• Wipe clean of loose hair,
grease, and debris.
• Remove carbon with emery
board, steel wool, or fine
sandpaper.
• Immerse in hot baking-soda
solution for one hour.
• Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Pressing Combs

59. Pressing Oil Benefits
• Makes hair softer
• Prepares hair for pressing
• Prevents hair from burning
• Helps prevent breakage
• Conditions hair after pressing
• Adds sheen
• Helps retain press

60. What to Avoid When Pressing
• Excessive heat or pressure on
hair and scalp
• Too much pressing oil on hair
(can attract dirt)
• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp
• Too-frequent hair pressing (can
weaken hair)
• Double Press- Hard Press- Not
always needed

61. • Keep comb clean and carbon free.
• Avoid overheating pressing comb.
• Test comb temperature.
• Adjust temperature.
• Touch up presses- Humidity
• Use comb carefully to avoid burning
skin.
• Prevent smoking/burning of hair.
• Use moderately warm comb at temples
and nape.
• Grey hair can discolor from heat
• Wiry hair can withstand more pressing
• Flexible scalp requires MORE tension

62. Injuries
• Immediate physical damage
• Not immediately evident

63. Special Considerations
• Pressing fine hair
• Pressing short fine hair
• Pressing coarse hair
• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

64. REVIEW
• What is a pressing comb?
• What are 3 presses you can perform?
• What do the teeth spacings do?
• What material are they made out of?
• What does tempering the comb mean?
• What are the benefits to pressing oil?
• What are some safety measures to take
with the pressing comb?
• How do you clean it?

65. Styling Long Hair: Updos
• Valuable service
• Weddings
• Proms
• Other evening events

66. Client Consultation
• Determine client desires.
• For wedding, use
magazines, suggest trial
run, bring headpiece.
• Suggest trial run.
• If bridal, bring headpiece.

67. Styling Long Hair
• Knot: also called a chignon
• Twist: elegant, sleek look that
can go anywhere
• Pleat: traditional updo used for
weddings and black-tie events
(sometimes called a classic
French twist)

68. REVIEW GAME