1. HIGH ALTITUDE
MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR
HIGH ALTITUDE AND COLD WEATHER NUTRITION
Steve Billig
Vegetarian Nutrition Center

2. • Nutrition for endurance athletes
• Expedition eating

3. STEP 1:
• Become experienced winter campers
– Learn to cook in your vestibule

4. A DAY IN THE LIFE
Morning: 2 – 3 hours
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Awake
Get dressed
Nature’s calls
Breakfast
Melt snow
Break camp
Gear up
Climb
Evening: 4 hours
• Make camp
• Make dinner
• Melt snow

5. COOKING STYLES
• Expedition (group) cooking
• Personal food
• cooking
• rehydration
• cold food

6. FOOD PACKING STRATEGIES
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Complete day(s) stuff sacks
Meal bags (e.g., breakfasts, dinners)
Active and storage bags
Caching food

7. NUTRITION
(caveat: Everyone is unique.
Know your own body)
two categories of nutrients
Energy nutrients
• Carbohydrates
• Protein
• Fat
Non-energy nutrients
• Vitamins
• Minerals
• Fiber
• Anti-oxidants
• Water

8. HYDRATION
• Dramatic effect on performance
• Start out well hydrated
• Need frequent, regular gulps
– keep water easily accessible, use timer
• Use sports drinks to add calories (carbs not
protein) and electrolytes
• 2 ½ quarts is standard max. May need to
replenish.
• Standard for assessing hydration
– urine color

9. PHASES OF THE DAY
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Pre climbing:
Climbing:
Post climbing:
Other meals:
front-load energy/water
continuous energy/water
focus on recovery
focus on nutrition and
energy

10. FOODS FOR PHASES
• Pre climbing:
– Mostly carbs: cereals, breads, pastas, dried fruit, Pop Tarts,
candy bars, sports drinks
– Simple carbs/sugar to closer to the activity
• Climbing:
– Simple carbs: sports bars, granola bars, sports drinks, gels.
Limit nuts.
• Post climbing:
– Start within ½ hour, mix of carbs and protein
– Recovery bars or drinks, sandwich with high protein food
• Other meals:
– Bump up protein, fats and real food (meat, sausage, beans,
grains, cheese, nuts, halva)
– Eat for pleasure

11. HOW MUCH FOOD?
• Calorie goal: 2,500 – 5,000 per day
– Expect to lose weight
– Vary by climbing/rest/weather days
• Weight goal
– Max 2 lbs/person/day
• How to increase calories:
– fats
– drinking calories

12. FOOD AND MOOD
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Lift spirits
Alleviate high altitude anorexia
Try out all foods
Bring treats

13. TIDBITS
• In cold weather, everything that
contains moisture will freeze
– jelly, honey, cheese
– tooth paste
– sun screen
– contact lens fluids
– wet wipes