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GLOBAL TRAVELLER                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        GLOBAL TRAVELLER
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                              set sail for
                                             A decade or so after being
                                             handed back to China,
                                             the former British and




      HOnG KOnG
                                             Portuguese colonies of
                                             Hong Kong and Macau,
                                             now Special Administrative




        & mAcAu
                                             Regions, continue to shine
                                             as beacons of business and
                                             havens of hospitality. There’s
                                             plenty to do here, from                                                                                               sights 26                                 Tastes 32                             city Guides 35
                                             indulging in the bountiful                                                                                         China, sort of                            the sum of these parts                Functional and savvy mini guides
                                                                                                                                                                Go bigger picture in Hong Kong and        The Canton region of South China is   to Hong Kong and Macau
                                             five-star luxuries to simple
                                                                                                                                                                Macau, from trekking the former’s high-   where dim sum originates; Hong Kong
                                             pleasures like hiking or                                                                                           gradient greenspaces to bungee jumping    and Macau are where it shines
                                             swimming at one of the                                                                                             off the latter’s tallest tower
                                             many public beaches. Both
                                             cities are very safe, and
                                             despite rapid development,
                                             it’s not all about skyscrapers
                                             and sky-high prices.
                                             Not by a long shot,
                                             as GLEn WATsOn reports




                                                                              pHOTOs: GETTY IMAGES (MAIN IMAGE); CORBIS (TOp MIDDLE); GRAHAM UDEN (TOp RIGHT)




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          Sights:

      china, sort of




      Although they are unmistakeably Chinese cities, Hong Kong and
      Macau are increasingly international ports of call for business and
      for pleasure. But going to these melting pots to simply complete
      a deal or be dealt a few cards would mean missing out on the
      spectacular scenery, world-class restaurants and other experiences
      that buoy the city states’ global aspirations and reputations

      HONG KONG
                                                                                                                         pHOTOs: PHILIPP ENGELHORN (TOp); GETTY IMAGES (MIDDLE & AbOvE RIGHT)


      AsIA’s WORLD cITY: Take a Hike                                                                                                                                                            HAPPY VALLEY: Off to the Races                                 There are special offers for out-of-town visitors, so                      OPENING
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          SPREAD: Explore
      Hong Kong’s oft-criticised tourism board has been         The Peak, on Hong Kong Island is 552m.                                                                                          Many people say that you haven’t been to Hong Kong          remember to take your passport. Obtaining a tourist                           victoria Harbour,
      promoting the Asia’s World City slogan for many              The MacLehose trail system in Kowloon spreads                                                                                until you’ve placed a bet at Happy Valley racecourse        badge (US$13/$19 for major race meetings) gives you                           by junk

      years – much to the chagrin of the city’s residents,      across much of the Sai Kung area in the northeast.                                                                              on a Wednesday night (along with the 30,000 or so           access to club members’ betting halls and trackside areas.                    THIS SPREAD,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          FAR LEFT:
      who believe there must be a better way to describe,       The annual Oxfam Trailwalker charity event in                                                                                   other spectators). You can stick to the ground-level beer   information: www.hkjc.com                                                     Trekking on The
      and promote, their home. But such an international        November sees about 3,800 people in four-person                                                                                 garden and food area, which lets you slide right up to                                                                                    peak, overlooking
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Hau Hoi                                                          Tei pang   Central and
      city in population, attitude and outlook is hard to       teams attempt to complete the 100km route within                                                                                the rail and watch the horses and jockeys galloping             Wan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               (Deep
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Wan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                (MiRS     Wanchai
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Bay)                                                             Bay)
      describe in a single tagline or sound bite.               the 48-hour time limit. A record time of 11 hours and                                                                           towards the finish line, or you can go all the way to the                                        Lo Wu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          TOP: Century-old
         Visitors taking a car or the Airport Express train     52 minutes was set last year.                                                                                                   top of the grandstand for a bird’s-eye view. Races have                                                                                   po Lin Monastery
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          on Ngong ping
      into the city probably won’t fail to notice Hong Kong’s      Visit a bookstore in Hong Kong to find local                                                                                 been held here since the 1840s.                                                     New Territories                        Hoi Ha
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          plateau, Lantau
      many large, green mountains. The word “Kowloon”           hiking books, such as Hong Kong Pathfinder by Martin                                                                               There is also a much larger track facility in Sha Tin                                    HONG KONG                                     Island

      approximates “nine dragons” in Cantonese; even            Williams, and The Leisurely Hiker’s Guide to Hong Kong                                                                          (Kowloon side) that offers weekend racing and has                                                      Kowloon                            ABOVE: The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Lady Millenary
      though this area to the north has eight peaks (the        by Pete Spurrier.                                                                                                               seating for 75,000 spectators, about double the capacity                                                                                  Handicap Race,
      invisible one refers to an emperor, also considered a                                                                                                                                     of Happy Valley. The season is from September to June              Lantau Island                      Hong Kong
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Island
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          at the Audemars
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Aberdeen                                      piguet Queen
      dragon). The highest peak, Tai Mo Shan, is 957m.          information: www.discoverhongkong.com,                                                                                          and entry costs US$1.30. Children under 18 aren’t                                                               Stanley                   Elizabeth II
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Cheung             Lamma
      Hong Kong’s next highest point of land is Lantau          www.drmartinwilliams.com, www.oxfamtrailwalker.org.hk,                                                                          allowed. The Jockey Club’s staff will help you fill out                             Chau               Island
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Cup meeting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          at the sha Tin
      Peak (Fung Wo Shan) at 934m. Victoria Peak, aka           www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkwalkers.net                                                                                           the betting slips.                                                                                                                        Racecourse




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      OuTLYInG IsLAnDs: Great Escapes
      Catch a ferry at the Central piers (in front of IFC Mall
      and Airport Express) and within an hour or so you can
      be on the peaceful islands of Lamma, Cheung Chau or
      Lantau. Quiet these islands may be compared to the city,
      but you will also find pubs, restaurants, beaches, hiking
      and biking trails, along with inexpensive guesthouses
      and holiday flats if you feel like staying overnight.
          Lamma is the third-largest island in Hong Kong.
      The ferry takes 30 minutes, about half the time it takes
      for the other islands. Lamma’s beaches make some
      favourite stops on the island and many enjoy walking
      the paved path across this mountainous island towards
      the seafood restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan, which also
      has a ferry service from Central. The walk takes about
                                                                                                                         pHOTOs: SNAPPERMEDIA (TOp); PHOTOLIBRARY (MIDDLE)




      an hour, with rest stops (there are no cars on Lamma).
          Cheung Chau is a small island shaped like a peanut
      and it only takes a few minutes to walk across it to        Cheung Chau is a small island      TOP: A slower
                                                                                                     way of life among
      the main beach. This island is home to a large fishing      shaped like a peanut and it only   the fishing
                                                                                                     community of
      community, as well as the annual Bun Festival in May.       takes a few minutes to walk        Cheung Chau
                                                                                                     island
          The largest island is Lantau, home to the airport and
                                                                  across it to the main beach
      Disneyland. But it is also where you’ll find Mui Wo, a                                         ABOVE:
                                                                                                     Fishermen on
      village where you can relax before or after a hike on the                                      Cheung sha
      Lantau Trail system. Catch a taxi or bus towards Cheung                                        beach, Lantau
                                                                                                     Island
      Sha beach, the longest in Hong Kong and home to a
      South African barbecue restaurant called The Stoep.
      information: www.lamma.com.hk, www.cheungchau.org,
      www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkkf.com.hk, www.nwff.com.hk


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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           cITY Of DREAms: Pinch me
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           The new kid on the Cotai block opened in June; you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           may want to get some fresh air before you explore City
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           of Dreams (COD). It’s billed as an integrated resort,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           which means it offers dining, high-end shopping, live
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           entertainment and several hotels, including a Hard
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Rock Hotel with the obligatory casino. Macau has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           overtaken Vegas in revenues and many more casinos
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           will be built over the coming years, but at least all of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           this gambling malarkey has brought excellent live music
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           and DJs to Macau, something seriously lacking in Hong
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Kong. The opening of the Hard Rock should bolster
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           what the Venetian has been offering so far: big-name
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           bands like The Police, Black Eyed Peas and Linkin Park.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Other entertainment includes several bars, a dome-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           shaped theatre called The Bubble that shows short
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           films for free, and a live Dragone show opening next
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           year as a permanent fixture. In Cotai, however, several
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           developments have been stalled thanks to the global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           economic downturn. One of them is Macao Studio City,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           another “integrated” entertainment and hotel concept
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           that is set to eventually include a Playboy Mansion.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              The Cotai area is surreal, but then most of Macau
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           has been that way for a long time.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           information: www.cityofdreamsmacau.com, www.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           hardrockhotels.com, www.dragone.be, www.macaostudiocity.com



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           cOLOAnE IsLAnD: Au naturel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           The southern ‘island’ houses the famous Fernando’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           restaurant and is a 20-minute drive from the Macau
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           ferry terminal. A historic and peaceful place, Coloane
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           has beaches, parks, golf, hiking, go-karts, a small zoo, a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           nature museum, a yacht club and, perhaps surprisingly,

      MACAU                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                more than one restaurant.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               This is a good area to be based when visiting Macau,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           except you’ll need to cope with the hapless taxi drivers.
      GAmBLInG In mAcAu: High stakes                               its massive gaming floor and Grand Canal Shoppes.         ABOVE: Dealers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                CHINA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Hotel options range from the five-star Westin
                                                                                                                             await punters at
      Whether you take the high-speed ferry or an even             The Macau Grand Prix, held every November, is a                                                                                                                                         Resort, with its 18-hole golf course and direct access



                                                                                                                                                pHOTOs: AFP/GETTY IMAGES (AbOvE); GRAHAM UDEN (TOp RIGHT);
                                                                                                                             Macau’s Grand
      faster helicopter from Hong Kong, there is much to           must-see and side bets are common. Less common            Lisboa hotel and                                                                                                              to the black sands of nearby Hac Sa Beach, to the


                                                                                                                                                AJ HACkETT (MIDDLE RIGHT); MAG INOO (MAp ILLusTRATIONs)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Macau Peninsula
                                                                                                                             casino
      see and do in Macau. Despite the recent invasion and         is the sight of Macanese competitors in the event’s                                                                                                                                     romantic and family-run Pousada de Coloane hotel
      major construction by Las Vegas casino operators, this       terrifying scooter races.                                 TOP RIGHT:                                                                                                                    on Cheoc-Van Beach. It has 30 rooms with balconies
                                                                                                                             The Dragone’s
      former Portuguese colony still retains a taste of its past       No doubt you will also see the main tourist sights,   Treasure show                                                                                                                 costing about a third of the Westin’s room charge.
                                                                                                                             in The bubble at
      (including the world’s oldest trade, and many historic       such as the St Paul’s Church ruins and Senado Square      City of Dreams
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               For dining options, the Pousada has a Portuguese
      sites and restaurants such as A Lorcha and Fernando’s).      (while here, look for a basement coffee shop Singing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             MACAU                         restaurant and you’ll find similar fare at Café Nga Tim
                                                                                                                             RIGHT: Done
      Macau’s taxi drivers are notoriously bad. Try pointing to    Bean Cafe).                                               with rolling?                                                                                                                 and Espaco Lisboa. In Coloane Village, seek out Lord
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Taipa Island      Macau
      your destination on a map as they don’t seem to speak            Top off a visit to Macau by doing something           plummet instead,                                                                                              International   Stow’s Bakery or one of its cafes to enjoy some egg tarts,
                                                                                                                             off Macau Tower                                                                                                  Airport
      English, Cantonese or Portuguese.                            crazy, like a bungee jump off the Macau Tower. AJ                                                                                                                                       cheesecake and British-style breads and pastries. Note
          If you’re a punter, the options include Stanley Ho’s     Hackett runs an operation offering a variety of thrills                                                                                                    Cotai
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Strip
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           that the restaurants on Coloane often close before 10pm.
      landmark Grand Lisboa casino, the Sands, Wynn,               – including the world’s highest jump at 233m.                                                                                                                                               Hong Kong residents often visit Macau and head
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Ka Ho
      MGM Grand and about two dozen more that are                  information: www.macautourism.gov.mo, www.grandlisboa.                                                                                    CHINA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Village         straight to Coloane, bypassing the glitzy casinos. It’s
      usually open 24 hours. You will want to visit Cotai (a       com, www.sands.com.mo, www.mgmgrandmacau.com,                                                                                                               Coloane
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           a lovely place to spend a lazy afternoon or weekend.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Village
      reclaimed area between Coloane and Taipa) to check           www.wynnmacau.com, www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo,                                                                                                                                          information: www.starwoodhotels.com (for Westin),
      out the monstrous Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel with           www.venetianmacao.com, www.mjc.mo, www.ajhackett.com                                                                                                                                    www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo, www.lordstow.com


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          Tastes:                                                                                                                                                                                   who react to seafood. Pork is often    WHERE TO GO fOR DIm sum In...


       The sum of These Parts
                                                                                                                                                                                                    combined with shrimp, for example.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Hong Kong
                                                                                                                                                                                                    It is best to go with someone who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           • Luk Yu Tea House 24-26 stanley st, Central,
                                                                                                                                                                                                    can read Chinese characters and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            tel: +852 2523 5464
                                                                                                                                                                                                    speak Cantonese. Often there are        It’s as traditional as you can get at this historic    An elegant and highly acclaimed
                Carnivores and vegetarians will smile, but smokers and outdoor lovers may frown when                                                                                                order slips to fill out or a trolley    place                                                  restaurant serving traditional dim sum
                  it comes to ingesting the Pearl River Delta’s world-class, award-winning and heart-                                                                                               will have signs indicating the         • Lung King Heen Four seasons Hotel, 8 Finance          at lunch
                            warming local and international fare, as GLEn WATsOn reports                                                                                                            contents within its metal walls or      st, Central, tel: +852 3196 8888
                                                                                                                                                                                                    pile of bamboo steamers. You may        Contemporary and traditional dim sum, in a            macau
                                                                                                         the trendy nightspot Dragon-i on                                                           get lucky and be seated next to an      Michelin-three-star eatery with a great view of       • Lua Azul Macau Tower, Largo da Torre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Victoria Harbour                                       de Macau, tel: +853 8988 8700
                                                                                                         Wyndham St above Lan Kwai Fong                                                             English-speaking local offering to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           • Dragon-i uG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham               Those in the know say the traditional
                                                                                                         has a daily lunch buffet (about                                                            help you (and no doubt trying to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            st, Central, tel: +852 3110 1222                       dim sum here is the best in town
                                                                                                         US$19).                                                                                    make you gnaw the skin off chicken
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Contemporary dim sum lunch buffet at the              • The Eight Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida
                                                                                                             Time Out Hong Kong magazine                                                            feet, which aren’t so bad). At the      city’s trendiest restaurant/bar                        de Lisboa, tel: +853 2803 7788
                                                                                                         food editor Angie Wong, who                                                                very least, the point-and-eat method   • Dim Sum Gourmet G/F, 108 Tsat Tsz Mui Rd,             A bit formal, but the food is very good
                                                                                                         also co-edited the Zagat restaurant                                                        usually works, too.                     North point, tel: +852 2811 1366                      • Tim’s Kitchen Lisboa Hotel, Avenida
                                                                                                         guide for Hong Kong, recommends                                                                Finally, some suggestions for       Health-conscious and family-run shop that uses         de Lisboa, tel: +853 8803 3682
                                                                                                         Tim Ho Wun in Mong Kok,                                                                    a dim sum deflowering: order            vegetable oil, lean pork, little salt and no MSG       This tiny venue serves an amazing
                                                                                                         Kowloon. It is owned by the former                                                         some heung pin cha (jasmine tea)       • Tim Ho Wun G/F, phase 2, Tsui Yuen Mansion, 2-        variety of dim sum

                                                                                                         dim sum chef at Michelin three-                                                            to go with siu mai (pork and            20 Kwong Wa st, Mong Kok, tel: +852 2332 2896         • Hero Chinese Restaurant shop 004
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Run by the former dim sum chef at Lung King            Amsterdam, Fisherman’s Wharf,
                                                                                                         star restaurant Lung King Heen                                                             shrimp dumpling), har gow (shrimp
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Heen, Four Seasons Hong Kong                           Avenida da Amizade e Avenida
                                                                                                         at Four Seasons Hong Kong hotel                                                            dumpling), char siu bao (barbecue
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           • Yan Toh Heen InterContinental Hotel,                  Dr, sun Yat-sen, tel: +853 2872 8807
                                                                                                         in Central. Tim Ho Wun has                                                                 pork bun), ngau yuk (beef balls).       18 salisbury Rd, Tsim sha Tsu, Kowloon,                This well-known Sichuan restaurant
                                                                                                         excellent dim sum and is cheap                                                             Then for dessert try ma lai go          tel: +852 2313 2323                                    chain also serves traditional dim sum
                                                                                                         and cheerful, Wong says. “There’s                                                          (steamed sponge cake).
                                                                                                         no fuss, no views and no napkins.”
                                                                                                         But there can be long queues.
                                                                                                             In Macau, since you’ll probably
                                                                                                         be near the two flashy Lisboa hotels
      ABOVE: Making      EATING WELL IS SOMETHING                    Roughly translated, dim sum         at some point, go for dim sum at
      dumplings, to
      be cooked in       that bankers and gamblers enjoy          means touch your heart, or little      The Eight (Grand Lisboa) or Tim’s
      bamboo steamers    almost as much as making money,          heart, and is like Japanese sushi      Kitchen (Lisboa Hotel). Lua Azul
      OPPOSITE PAGE,     judging by the epicurean delights        – except the pieces are cooked,        in the iconic Macau Tower is also
      TOP: Har gow, or   available in Hong Kong and Macau.        usually by steam. The Canton           recommended.
      shrimp dumplings
                         Despite all that’s new or in the news    region of South China is where
                         when it comes to food and drink          dim sum originates; Hong Kong          Tummy tea-sers
                         in these Special Administrative          and Macau are where it shines.         The term for going to eat dim sum
                         Regions of China, residents                                                     is yum cha, which means drinking
                         continue to find solace and synergy      follow your stomach                    tea. The story goes that as teahouses
                         in the delicious morsels that            Dim sum can be found everywhere,       became popular, so did the need
                         originate from here.                     from three-Michelin-star restaurants   for some nibbles. Centuries
                                                                  to mom-and-pop shops and               later, this dining experience has
                                                                                                                                                 pHOTOs: GETTY IMAGES (AboVe); CORBIS (ToP RIGHT)




                         Hunger for history                       convenience stores. In Hong Kong,      spread around the world and any
                         In two cities seeing such                it’s popular to go for traditional     Chinatown worth its salty soy
                         rapid change and commercial              dim sum at places like City Hall       sauce will have at least a few places
                         (over)development, there’s a definite    in Central (a five-minute walk east    serving dim sum. Hong Kong and
                         public yearning to maintain a            from the Airport Express station).     Macau have hundreds, possibly
                         grasp on what little heritage is left.   Metal trolleys whiz around a loud      thousands, of dim sum outlets open
                         Which brings us to dim sum, those        room packed full of tables that can    from sunrise until mid-afternoon
                         delightful little portions of meat,      seat people by the dozen (at least).   or, increasingly, late evening. The
                         seafood, vegetables, intestines,         Forget about cosy teahouses, large     popular teas are the earthy pu-er
                         chicken feet and anything else on        dim sum places are borderline          or lighter heung pin (jasmine).
                         hand, that will tempt, tickle or         nuthouse and great fun.                    People with food allergies should
                         trample the taste buds.                      For contemporary dim sum,          avoid dim sum, particularly those


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                                                                City Guide
                                                            Hong Kong
                                                                   In BRIEf: Since the ’97 handover,         the best of the best. The afternoon tea set     therapist’s healing hands. Tel: +852 3196
                                                            the group of islands that make up Hong           in the lobby is a must-do. A fleet of Rolls-    8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong
                                                            Kong has been through a lot (SARS, bird          Royce cars is at your service, too. Salisbury
                                                            flu, Asian and global economic downturns)        Rd, tel: +852 2920 2888, www.peninsula.com            DRInK: Try to get a member
                                                            and yet it continues to thrive as a business                                                     to invite you to the historic foreign
                                                            centre. It’s fast paced and international in           EAT: Bo innovation is the brainchild      Correspondents’ Club beside Lan Kwai
                                                            its make-up and outlook. It’s transparent,       of Michelin two-star “Demon Chef” Alvin         Fong. The main bar is huge and the smaller
                                                            has income tax rates sitting below 20% and       Leung. His small “X-treme Chinese”              jazz bar downstairs often has live music.
                                                            is highly efficient. There is no sales tax and   creations are molecular, marvellous and         2 Lower Albert Rd, Central, www.fcchk.org
                                                            corruption and bribery are serious offences.     even mischievous at times. Try the chef’s
                                                            It is densely populated with seven million       set dinner menu, which features a dozen              sHOP: The ifC mall in Central
                                                            citizens and full of skyscrapers, but there is   or so dishes.                                   (above Airport Express and beside
                                                            an abundance of green space. Air pollution       2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnson Rd, Wanchai,       Exchange Square) is a convenient place to
                                                            and water quality remain concerns.               tel: +852 2850 8371, www.boinnovation.com       meet up, shop, eat, drink, catch a film or do
                                                                                                                                                             business over lunch or dinner.
                                                                  DIsTAncE: Chek Lap Kok Airport             aqua restaurant towers above The                8 Finance St, Central, www.ifc.com.hk
                                                            on Lantau Island is 40km from the central        Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsu (TST) and
                                                            business district, on Hong Kong Island.          thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows               DAY TRIP: Take the 30-minute
                                                            Getting to the CBD takes about 25 minutes        it has impressive views of Hong Kong            train across the border to shenzhen for
                                                            on the Airport Express train (US$13). A          Island. The Aqua Group also serves food         cheap shopping, food and drink. Check if
                                                            taxi (US$45) to Central in the CBD takes         and drink aboard the Aqua Luna red-sail         you need a China visa first. China Travel
                                                            about 40 minutes.                                Chinese junk in the harbour.                    Service can quickly arrange visas and tours.
                                                                                                             29/F & 30/F, One Peking Rd, tel: +852           www.ctshk.com
                                                                 ORIEnTATIOn: Central is the main            3427 2288, www.aqua.com.hk
                                                            business district and home to Lan Kwai                                                                 KIDs In TOW: ocean park in
                                                            Fong and SoHo bar and restaurant areas.               PLAY: If you don’t want to do the          Aberdeen is thriving despite the arrival of
                                                            The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition          usual “eat and party” in Lan Kwai Fong,         Hong Kong Disneyland on Lantau Island.
                                                            Centre is two subway stops (about 2km)           SoHo or Wanchai then maybe you’d prefer         It’s fun and educational and has included
                                                            to the east, in Wanchai. Victoria Harbour        a night of shopping amid the hustle and         new attractions to meet demand. Be sure to
                                                            separates Hong Kong Island from Kowloon.         bustle of crowded Causeway Bay or mong          visit the giant pandas. www.oceanpark.com.hk
                                                                                                             Kok. Shop until midnight at the surreal
                                                                 sLEEP: the Grand hyatt in                   Temple Street night market in Jordan (one            cOncIERGE TIP: Victoria peak (aka
                                                            Wanchai has more than 500 rooms, many            MTR stop above TST).                            The Peak) offers the best views of the city.
                                                            with harbour views. It has an awesome                                                            Catch the Peak Tram or a taxi (US$6.50) to
                                                            outdoor pool area and is connected to the             sPA: the spa at Four Seasons Hong          get up there.
                                      pHOTO: GETTY IMAGES




                                                            convention centre.                               Kong has a brilliant outdoor pool area,
                                                            1 Harbour Rd, tel: +852 2588 1234,               which puts it slightly ahead of the many             READ: A Modern History of Hong Kong
                                                            www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com                     top-notch spas in the city. The Spa’s organic   by Steve Tsang; Asian Godfathers: Money and
                                                                                                             product line, ila, is sourced ethically and     Power in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia by
                                                            Over in Kowloon, the peninsula offers            is combined with music, mantras and the         Joe Studwell.


34    connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009                                                                                                                                    OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect         35
GLOBAL TRAVELLER
     ultimate guide




          City Guide
      Macau
            In BRIEf: Gambling in Macau used             prices and abundant seating make                        DAY TRIP: If you have a China
      to be a rather shabby pastime, but the             ristaurante Litoral a great choice. It’s just     visa, you can walk over to the mainland
      arrival of the Vegas-style glitz and glamour       a few doors down from the equally good            city of Zhuhai for the day or a few nights.
      has brought with it large, bright, open and        but more intimate a Lorcha. Macanese              It’s not an expensive place and Bar Street
      luxurious gaming halls with shopping,              owner/chef Manuela Ferreira is said to use        is good fun, with several dining options,
      eating, sleeping and entertainment centres.        family recipes that go back at least 100          live bands and flair bartenders who juggle
      The trickle-on effect created boom times           years. 261-A & 289 Rua do Almiirante Sergio,      bottles as well as flaming objects.
      in Macau, tempered slightly by the global          tel: +853 2896 7878 & 2831 3193 (respectively)
      economy and a tightening of visa approvals                                                                KIDs In TOW: If the kids are all
      for mainland punters. It’s still a fun place to         PLAY: Gamble, let it ride, c’mon             played out after visiting macau tower,
      visit, even if you don’t gamble. As for doing      lucky seven, hold ’em or fold ’em, baby           spend some quiet time at one of the many
      business, use caution and be prepared for          needs a new pair of shoes. Once you               parks or beaches, or go to the quite
      frustration. Things don’t happen here as           satisfy that urge to place bets, head to          interesting maritime museum located
      quickly as Hong Kong.                              the Venetian macao to check out the               across from the A-Ma Temple near A
                                                         permanent Cirque du Soleil show Zaia.             Lorcha restaurant. www.macautower.com.
           DIsTAncE: The Macau ferry and                 The hotel also attracts big-name live             mo, www.museumaritimo.gov.mo
      heliport terminal is within the main city,         music and sporting events.
      but you’ll still want to catch a taxi or hotel     www.venetianmacao.com                                  cOncIERGE TIP: The best views
      shuttle bus when you arrive. The Venetian                                                            are from 338m Macau Tower. Another
      runs its Cotai Jet Hong Kong/Macau ferry                  sPA: Rated as Asia’s best hotel spa by     option is to walk or take the cable car up
      service to Taipa, which is also where the          AsiaSpa mag, altira spa towers over Taipa         to Guia hill, the highest point in Macau,
      airport is located.                                with exquisite views of the City Centre.          for panoramic views in a garden setting.
                                                         Treatments are invigorating and wet-spa
            ORIEnTATIOn: Macau is divided                facilities are spectacular. Altira Macau Hotel,        READ: Strolling in Macau. A Visitor’s
      into three sections: the City Centre in the        tel: +853 2886 8886, www.altiramacau.com          Guide to Macau, Taipa and Coloane by
      north and the Taipa and Coloane islands                                                              Steve Bailey; Roll the Bones: The History of
      due south (about 5km and 10km away,                      DRInK: A great place to start the           Gambling by David Schwartz.
      and connected by roads and bridges). The           night is the chic Cinnebar in the Wynn
      business district is in the centre. Hotels, bars   Macau. With indoor and outdoor seating,
                                                                                                             cWT’s TIPs Of THE TRADE
      and restaurants abound in all three areas.         free snacks, cocktails and very comfy seats,
                                                                                                             HONG KONG & MACAU
                                                         you may not want to go anywhere else.               Taxi: HK taxi drivers live off their tips,
            sLEEP: Macau and Zhuhai                      Rua Cidade de Sintra, tel: +853 8986 3838,          especially if they just rent their cars and
                                                                                                             don’t own them, so try to give them 10%.
      holiday inn hotels are reasonably priced           www.wynnmacau.com
                                                                                                             Macau taxi drivers are generally terrible,
      InterContinental Group properties. Holiday                                                             so only tip if you get a good one.
      Inn Macau, 82-86 Rua de Pequim, City Centre,            sHOP: The Venetian Macao’s Grand               Tipping: A 10% service charge is
                                                                                                                                                           pHOTO: GETTY IMAGES




                                                                                                             automatically added to the bill at most
      tel: +853 2878 3333, www.ichotelsgroup.com         Canal shoppes is a spectacular place,
                                                                                                             restaurants and bars, very little of which
                                                         with a painted blue sky above the 9.3ha             goes to your server. – Sheila Chan,head
           EAT: It’s hard to put one Macanese            replica of Venice. It’s complete with canals        of Program Management and Traveller
                                                                                                             & Transaction Services, HK
      restaurant above the others, but in this           and gondoliers and hundreds of high-end
                                                                                                             For more HK & Macau tips, see p68
      case the quality of food, great service, low       shops. www.venetianmacao.com


36    connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009

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Hong Kong + Macau Guide - Connect magazine

  • 1. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide set sail for A decade or so after being handed back to China, the former British and HOnG KOnG Portuguese colonies of Hong Kong and Macau, now Special Administrative & mAcAu Regions, continue to shine as beacons of business and havens of hospitality. There’s plenty to do here, from sights 26 Tastes 32 city Guides 35 indulging in the bountiful China, sort of the sum of these parts Functional and savvy mini guides Go bigger picture in Hong Kong and The Canton region of South China is to Hong Kong and Macau five-star luxuries to simple Macau, from trekking the former’s high- where dim sum originates; Hong Kong pleasures like hiking or gradient greenspaces to bungee jumping and Macau are where it shines swimming at one of the off the latter’s tallest tower many public beaches. Both cities are very safe, and despite rapid development, it’s not all about skyscrapers and sky-high prices. Not by a long shot, as GLEn WATsOn reports pHOTOs: GETTY IMAGES (MAIN IMAGE); CORBIS (TOp MIDDLE); GRAHAM UDEN (TOp RIGHT) 24 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 25
  • 2. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide Sights: china, sort of Although they are unmistakeably Chinese cities, Hong Kong and Macau are increasingly international ports of call for business and for pleasure. But going to these melting pots to simply complete a deal or be dealt a few cards would mean missing out on the spectacular scenery, world-class restaurants and other experiences that buoy the city states’ global aspirations and reputations HONG KONG pHOTOs: PHILIPP ENGELHORN (TOp); GETTY IMAGES (MIDDLE & AbOvE RIGHT) AsIA’s WORLD cITY: Take a Hike HAPPY VALLEY: Off to the Races There are special offers for out-of-town visitors, so OPENING SPREAD: Explore Hong Kong’s oft-criticised tourism board has been The Peak, on Hong Kong Island is 552m. Many people say that you haven’t been to Hong Kong remember to take your passport. Obtaining a tourist victoria Harbour, promoting the Asia’s World City slogan for many The MacLehose trail system in Kowloon spreads until you’ve placed a bet at Happy Valley racecourse badge (US$13/$19 for major race meetings) gives you by junk years – much to the chagrin of the city’s residents, across much of the Sai Kung area in the northeast. on a Wednesday night (along with the 30,000 or so access to club members’ betting halls and trackside areas. THIS SPREAD, FAR LEFT: who believe there must be a better way to describe, The annual Oxfam Trailwalker charity event in other spectators). You can stick to the ground-level beer information: www.hkjc.com Trekking on The and promote, their home. But such an international November sees about 3,800 people in four-person garden and food area, which lets you slide right up to peak, overlooking Hau Hoi Tei pang Central and city in population, attitude and outlook is hard to teams attempt to complete the 100km route within the rail and watch the horses and jockeys galloping Wan (Deep Wan (MiRS Wanchai Bay) Bay) describe in a single tagline or sound bite. the 48-hour time limit. A record time of 11 hours and towards the finish line, or you can go all the way to the Lo Wu TOP: Century-old Visitors taking a car or the Airport Express train 52 minutes was set last year. top of the grandstand for a bird’s-eye view. Races have po Lin Monastery on Ngong ping into the city probably won’t fail to notice Hong Kong’s Visit a bookstore in Hong Kong to find local been held here since the 1840s. New Territories Hoi Ha plateau, Lantau many large, green mountains. The word “Kowloon” hiking books, such as Hong Kong Pathfinder by Martin There is also a much larger track facility in Sha Tin HONG KONG Island approximates “nine dragons” in Cantonese; even Williams, and The Leisurely Hiker’s Guide to Hong Kong (Kowloon side) that offers weekend racing and has Kowloon ABOVE: The Lady Millenary though this area to the north has eight peaks (the by Pete Spurrier. seating for 75,000 spectators, about double the capacity Handicap Race, invisible one refers to an emperor, also considered a of Happy Valley. The season is from September to June Lantau Island Hong Kong Island at the Audemars Aberdeen piguet Queen dragon). The highest peak, Tai Mo Shan, is 957m. information: www.discoverhongkong.com, and entry costs US$1.30. Children under 18 aren’t Stanley Elizabeth II Cheung Lamma Hong Kong’s next highest point of land is Lantau www.drmartinwilliams.com, www.oxfamtrailwalker.org.hk, allowed. The Jockey Club’s staff will help you fill out Chau Island Cup meeting at the sha Tin Peak (Fung Wo Shan) at 934m. Victoria Peak, aka www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkwalkers.net the betting slips. Racecourse 26 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 27
  • 3. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide OuTLYInG IsLAnDs: Great Escapes Catch a ferry at the Central piers (in front of IFC Mall and Airport Express) and within an hour or so you can be on the peaceful islands of Lamma, Cheung Chau or Lantau. Quiet these islands may be compared to the city, but you will also find pubs, restaurants, beaches, hiking and biking trails, along with inexpensive guesthouses and holiday flats if you feel like staying overnight. Lamma is the third-largest island in Hong Kong. The ferry takes 30 minutes, about half the time it takes for the other islands. Lamma’s beaches make some favourite stops on the island and many enjoy walking the paved path across this mountainous island towards the seafood restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan, which also has a ferry service from Central. The walk takes about pHOTOs: SNAPPERMEDIA (TOp); PHOTOLIBRARY (MIDDLE) an hour, with rest stops (there are no cars on Lamma). Cheung Chau is a small island shaped like a peanut and it only takes a few minutes to walk across it to Cheung Chau is a small island TOP: A slower way of life among the main beach. This island is home to a large fishing shaped like a peanut and it only the fishing community of community, as well as the annual Bun Festival in May. takes a few minutes to walk Cheung Chau island The largest island is Lantau, home to the airport and across it to the main beach Disneyland. But it is also where you’ll find Mui Wo, a ABOVE: Fishermen on village where you can relax before or after a hike on the Cheung sha Lantau Trail system. Catch a taxi or bus towards Cheung beach, Lantau Island Sha beach, the longest in Hong Kong and home to a South African barbecue restaurant called The Stoep. information: www.lamma.com.hk, www.cheungchau.org, www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkkf.com.hk, www.nwff.com.hk 28 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 29
  • 4. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide cITY Of DREAms: Pinch me The new kid on the Cotai block opened in June; you may want to get some fresh air before you explore City of Dreams (COD). It’s billed as an integrated resort, which means it offers dining, high-end shopping, live entertainment and several hotels, including a Hard Rock Hotel with the obligatory casino. Macau has overtaken Vegas in revenues and many more casinos will be built over the coming years, but at least all of this gambling malarkey has brought excellent live music and DJs to Macau, something seriously lacking in Hong Kong. The opening of the Hard Rock should bolster what the Venetian has been offering so far: big-name bands like The Police, Black Eyed Peas and Linkin Park. Other entertainment includes several bars, a dome- shaped theatre called The Bubble that shows short films for free, and a live Dragone show opening next year as a permanent fixture. In Cotai, however, several developments have been stalled thanks to the global economic downturn. One of them is Macao Studio City, another “integrated” entertainment and hotel concept that is set to eventually include a Playboy Mansion. The Cotai area is surreal, but then most of Macau has been that way for a long time. information: www.cityofdreamsmacau.com, www. hardrockhotels.com, www.dragone.be, www.macaostudiocity.com cOLOAnE IsLAnD: Au naturel The southern ‘island’ houses the famous Fernando’s restaurant and is a 20-minute drive from the Macau ferry terminal. A historic and peaceful place, Coloane has beaches, parks, golf, hiking, go-karts, a small zoo, a nature museum, a yacht club and, perhaps surprisingly, MACAU more than one restaurant. This is a good area to be based when visiting Macau, except you’ll need to cope with the hapless taxi drivers. GAmBLInG In mAcAu: High stakes its massive gaming floor and Grand Canal Shoppes. ABOVE: Dealers CHINA Hotel options range from the five-star Westin await punters at Whether you take the high-speed ferry or an even The Macau Grand Prix, held every November, is a Resort, with its 18-hole golf course and direct access pHOTOs: AFP/GETTY IMAGES (AbOvE); GRAHAM UDEN (TOp RIGHT); Macau’s Grand faster helicopter from Hong Kong, there is much to must-see and side bets are common. Less common Lisboa hotel and to the black sands of nearby Hac Sa Beach, to the AJ HACkETT (MIDDLE RIGHT); MAG INOO (MAp ILLusTRATIONs) Macau Peninsula casino see and do in Macau. Despite the recent invasion and is the sight of Macanese competitors in the event’s romantic and family-run Pousada de Coloane hotel major construction by Las Vegas casino operators, this terrifying scooter races. TOP RIGHT: on Cheoc-Van Beach. It has 30 rooms with balconies The Dragone’s former Portuguese colony still retains a taste of its past No doubt you will also see the main tourist sights, Treasure show costing about a third of the Westin’s room charge. in The bubble at (including the world’s oldest trade, and many historic such as the St Paul’s Church ruins and Senado Square City of Dreams For dining options, the Pousada has a Portuguese sites and restaurants such as A Lorcha and Fernando’s). (while here, look for a basement coffee shop Singing MACAU restaurant and you’ll find similar fare at Café Nga Tim RIGHT: Done Macau’s taxi drivers are notoriously bad. Try pointing to Bean Cafe). with rolling? and Espaco Lisboa. In Coloane Village, seek out Lord Taipa Island Macau your destination on a map as they don’t seem to speak Top off a visit to Macau by doing something plummet instead, International Stow’s Bakery or one of its cafes to enjoy some egg tarts, off Macau Tower Airport English, Cantonese or Portuguese. crazy, like a bungee jump off the Macau Tower. AJ cheesecake and British-style breads and pastries. Note If you’re a punter, the options include Stanley Ho’s Hackett runs an operation offering a variety of thrills Cotai Strip that the restaurants on Coloane often close before 10pm. landmark Grand Lisboa casino, the Sands, Wynn, – including the world’s highest jump at 233m. Hong Kong residents often visit Macau and head Ka Ho MGM Grand and about two dozen more that are information: www.macautourism.gov.mo, www.grandlisboa. CHINA Village straight to Coloane, bypassing the glitzy casinos. It’s usually open 24 hours. You will want to visit Cotai (a com, www.sands.com.mo, www.mgmgrandmacau.com, Coloane a lovely place to spend a lazy afternoon or weekend. Village reclaimed area between Coloane and Taipa) to check www.wynnmacau.com, www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo, information: www.starwoodhotels.com (for Westin), out the monstrous Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel with www.venetianmacao.com, www.mjc.mo, www.ajhackett.com www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo, www.lordstow.com 30 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 31
  • 5. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide Tastes: who react to seafood. Pork is often WHERE TO GO fOR DIm sum In... The sum of These Parts combined with shrimp, for example. Hong Kong It is best to go with someone who • Luk Yu Tea House 24-26 stanley st, Central, can read Chinese characters and tel: +852 2523 5464 speak Cantonese. Often there are It’s as traditional as you can get at this historic An elegant and highly acclaimed Carnivores and vegetarians will smile, but smokers and outdoor lovers may frown when order slips to fill out or a trolley place restaurant serving traditional dim sum it comes to ingesting the Pearl River Delta’s world-class, award-winning and heart- will have signs indicating the • Lung King Heen Four seasons Hotel, 8 Finance at lunch warming local and international fare, as GLEn WATsOn reports contents within its metal walls or st, Central, tel: +852 3196 8888 pile of bamboo steamers. You may Contemporary and traditional dim sum, in a macau the trendy nightspot Dragon-i on get lucky and be seated next to an Michelin-three-star eatery with a great view of • Lua Azul Macau Tower, Largo da Torre Victoria Harbour de Macau, tel: +853 8988 8700 Wyndham St above Lan Kwai Fong English-speaking local offering to • Dragon-i uG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Those in the know say the traditional has a daily lunch buffet (about help you (and no doubt trying to st, Central, tel: +852 3110 1222 dim sum here is the best in town US$19). make you gnaw the skin off chicken Contemporary dim sum lunch buffet at the • The Eight Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida Time Out Hong Kong magazine feet, which aren’t so bad). At the city’s trendiest restaurant/bar de Lisboa, tel: +853 2803 7788 food editor Angie Wong, who very least, the point-and-eat method • Dim Sum Gourmet G/F, 108 Tsat Tsz Mui Rd, A bit formal, but the food is very good also co-edited the Zagat restaurant usually works, too. North point, tel: +852 2811 1366 • Tim’s Kitchen Lisboa Hotel, Avenida guide for Hong Kong, recommends Finally, some suggestions for Health-conscious and family-run shop that uses de Lisboa, tel: +853 8803 3682 Tim Ho Wun in Mong Kok, a dim sum deflowering: order vegetable oil, lean pork, little salt and no MSG This tiny venue serves an amazing Kowloon. It is owned by the former some heung pin cha (jasmine tea) • Tim Ho Wun G/F, phase 2, Tsui Yuen Mansion, 2- variety of dim sum dim sum chef at Michelin three- to go with siu mai (pork and 20 Kwong Wa st, Mong Kok, tel: +852 2332 2896 • Hero Chinese Restaurant shop 004 Run by the former dim sum chef at Lung King Amsterdam, Fisherman’s Wharf, star restaurant Lung King Heen shrimp dumpling), har gow (shrimp Heen, Four Seasons Hong Kong Avenida da Amizade e Avenida at Four Seasons Hong Kong hotel dumpling), char siu bao (barbecue • Yan Toh Heen InterContinental Hotel, Dr, sun Yat-sen, tel: +853 2872 8807 in Central. Tim Ho Wun has pork bun), ngau yuk (beef balls). 18 salisbury Rd, Tsim sha Tsu, Kowloon, This well-known Sichuan restaurant excellent dim sum and is cheap Then for dessert try ma lai go tel: +852 2313 2323 chain also serves traditional dim sum and cheerful, Wong says. “There’s (steamed sponge cake). no fuss, no views and no napkins.” But there can be long queues. In Macau, since you’ll probably be near the two flashy Lisboa hotels ABOVE: Making EATING WELL IS SOMETHING Roughly translated, dim sum at some point, go for dim sum at dumplings, to be cooked in that bankers and gamblers enjoy means touch your heart, or little The Eight (Grand Lisboa) or Tim’s bamboo steamers almost as much as making money, heart, and is like Japanese sushi Kitchen (Lisboa Hotel). Lua Azul OPPOSITE PAGE, judging by the epicurean delights – except the pieces are cooked, in the iconic Macau Tower is also TOP: Har gow, or available in Hong Kong and Macau. usually by steam. The Canton recommended. shrimp dumplings Despite all that’s new or in the news region of South China is where when it comes to food and drink dim sum originates; Hong Kong Tummy tea-sers in these Special Administrative and Macau are where it shines. The term for going to eat dim sum Regions of China, residents is yum cha, which means drinking continue to find solace and synergy follow your stomach tea. The story goes that as teahouses in the delicious morsels that Dim sum can be found everywhere, became popular, so did the need originate from here. from three-Michelin-star restaurants for some nibbles. Centuries to mom-and-pop shops and later, this dining experience has pHOTOs: GETTY IMAGES (AboVe); CORBIS (ToP RIGHT) Hunger for history convenience stores. In Hong Kong, spread around the world and any In two cities seeing such it’s popular to go for traditional Chinatown worth its salty soy rapid change and commercial dim sum at places like City Hall sauce will have at least a few places (over)development, there’s a definite in Central (a five-minute walk east serving dim sum. Hong Kong and public yearning to maintain a from the Airport Express station). Macau have hundreds, possibly grasp on what little heritage is left. Metal trolleys whiz around a loud thousands, of dim sum outlets open Which brings us to dim sum, those room packed full of tables that can from sunrise until mid-afternoon delightful little portions of meat, seat people by the dozen (at least). or, increasingly, late evening. The seafood, vegetables, intestines, Forget about cosy teahouses, large popular teas are the earthy pu-er chicken feet and anything else on dim sum places are borderline or lighter heung pin (jasmine). hand, that will tempt, tickle or nuthouse and great fun. People with food allergies should trample the taste buds. For contemporary dim sum, avoid dim sum, particularly those 32 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 33
  • 6. GLOBAL TRAVELLER GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide ultimate guide City Guide Hong Kong In BRIEf: Since the ’97 handover, the best of the best. The afternoon tea set therapist’s healing hands. Tel: +852 3196 the group of islands that make up Hong in the lobby is a must-do. A fleet of Rolls- 8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong Kong has been through a lot (SARS, bird Royce cars is at your service, too. Salisbury flu, Asian and global economic downturns) Rd, tel: +852 2920 2888, www.peninsula.com DRInK: Try to get a member and yet it continues to thrive as a business to invite you to the historic foreign centre. It’s fast paced and international in EAT: Bo innovation is the brainchild Correspondents’ Club beside Lan Kwai its make-up and outlook. It’s transparent, of Michelin two-star “Demon Chef” Alvin Fong. The main bar is huge and the smaller has income tax rates sitting below 20% and Leung. His small “X-treme Chinese” jazz bar downstairs often has live music. is highly efficient. There is no sales tax and creations are molecular, marvellous and 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central, www.fcchk.org corruption and bribery are serious offences. even mischievous at times. Try the chef’s It is densely populated with seven million set dinner menu, which features a dozen sHOP: The ifC mall in Central citizens and full of skyscrapers, but there is or so dishes. (above Airport Express and beside an abundance of green space. Air pollution 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnson Rd, Wanchai, Exchange Square) is a convenient place to and water quality remain concerns. tel: +852 2850 8371, www.boinnovation.com meet up, shop, eat, drink, catch a film or do business over lunch or dinner. DIsTAncE: Chek Lap Kok Airport aqua restaurant towers above The 8 Finance St, Central, www.ifc.com.hk on Lantau Island is 40km from the central Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsu (TST) and business district, on Hong Kong Island. thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows DAY TRIP: Take the 30-minute Getting to the CBD takes about 25 minutes it has impressive views of Hong Kong train across the border to shenzhen for on the Airport Express train (US$13). A Island. The Aqua Group also serves food cheap shopping, food and drink. Check if taxi (US$45) to Central in the CBD takes and drink aboard the Aqua Luna red-sail you need a China visa first. China Travel about 40 minutes. Chinese junk in the harbour. Service can quickly arrange visas and tours. 29/F & 30/F, One Peking Rd, tel: +852 www.ctshk.com ORIEnTATIOn: Central is the main 3427 2288, www.aqua.com.hk business district and home to Lan Kwai KIDs In TOW: ocean park in Fong and SoHo bar and restaurant areas. PLAY: If you don’t want to do the Aberdeen is thriving despite the arrival of The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition usual “eat and party” in Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong Disneyland on Lantau Island. Centre is two subway stops (about 2km) SoHo or Wanchai then maybe you’d prefer It’s fun and educational and has included to the east, in Wanchai. Victoria Harbour a night of shopping amid the hustle and new attractions to meet demand. Be sure to separates Hong Kong Island from Kowloon. bustle of crowded Causeway Bay or mong visit the giant pandas. www.oceanpark.com.hk Kok. Shop until midnight at the surreal sLEEP: the Grand hyatt in Temple Street night market in Jordan (one cOncIERGE TIP: Victoria peak (aka Wanchai has more than 500 rooms, many MTR stop above TST). The Peak) offers the best views of the city. with harbour views. It has an awesome Catch the Peak Tram or a taxi (US$6.50) to outdoor pool area and is connected to the sPA: the spa at Four Seasons Hong get up there. pHOTO: GETTY IMAGES convention centre. Kong has a brilliant outdoor pool area, 1 Harbour Rd, tel: +852 2588 1234, which puts it slightly ahead of the many READ: A Modern History of Hong Kong www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com top-notch spas in the city. The Spa’s organic by Steve Tsang; Asian Godfathers: Money and product line, ila, is sourced ethically and Power in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia by Over in Kowloon, the peninsula offers is combined with music, mantras and the Joe Studwell. 34 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect 35
  • 7. GLOBAL TRAVELLER ultimate guide City Guide Macau In BRIEf: Gambling in Macau used prices and abundant seating make DAY TRIP: If you have a China to be a rather shabby pastime, but the ristaurante Litoral a great choice. It’s just visa, you can walk over to the mainland arrival of the Vegas-style glitz and glamour a few doors down from the equally good city of Zhuhai for the day or a few nights. has brought with it large, bright, open and but more intimate a Lorcha. Macanese It’s not an expensive place and Bar Street luxurious gaming halls with shopping, owner/chef Manuela Ferreira is said to use is good fun, with several dining options, eating, sleeping and entertainment centres. family recipes that go back at least 100 live bands and flair bartenders who juggle The trickle-on effect created boom times years. 261-A & 289 Rua do Almiirante Sergio, bottles as well as flaming objects. in Macau, tempered slightly by the global tel: +853 2896 7878 & 2831 3193 (respectively) economy and a tightening of visa approvals KIDs In TOW: If the kids are all for mainland punters. It’s still a fun place to PLAY: Gamble, let it ride, c’mon played out after visiting macau tower, visit, even if you don’t gamble. As for doing lucky seven, hold ’em or fold ’em, baby spend some quiet time at one of the many business, use caution and be prepared for needs a new pair of shoes. Once you parks or beaches, or go to the quite frustration. Things don’t happen here as satisfy that urge to place bets, head to interesting maritime museum located quickly as Hong Kong. the Venetian macao to check out the across from the A-Ma Temple near A permanent Cirque du Soleil show Zaia. Lorcha restaurant. www.macautower.com. DIsTAncE: The Macau ferry and The hotel also attracts big-name live mo, www.museumaritimo.gov.mo heliport terminal is within the main city, music and sporting events. but you’ll still want to catch a taxi or hotel www.venetianmacao.com cOncIERGE TIP: The best views shuttle bus when you arrive. The Venetian are from 338m Macau Tower. Another runs its Cotai Jet Hong Kong/Macau ferry sPA: Rated as Asia’s best hotel spa by option is to walk or take the cable car up service to Taipa, which is also where the AsiaSpa mag, altira spa towers over Taipa to Guia hill, the highest point in Macau, airport is located. with exquisite views of the City Centre. for panoramic views in a garden setting. Treatments are invigorating and wet-spa ORIEnTATIOn: Macau is divided facilities are spectacular. Altira Macau Hotel, READ: Strolling in Macau. A Visitor’s into three sections: the City Centre in the tel: +853 2886 8886, www.altiramacau.com Guide to Macau, Taipa and Coloane by north and the Taipa and Coloane islands Steve Bailey; Roll the Bones: The History of due south (about 5km and 10km away, DRInK: A great place to start the Gambling by David Schwartz. and connected by roads and bridges). The night is the chic Cinnebar in the Wynn business district is in the centre. Hotels, bars Macau. With indoor and outdoor seating, cWT’s TIPs Of THE TRADE and restaurants abound in all three areas. free snacks, cocktails and very comfy seats, HONG KONG & MACAU you may not want to go anywhere else. Taxi: HK taxi drivers live off their tips, sLEEP: Macau and Zhuhai Rua Cidade de Sintra, tel: +853 8986 3838, especially if they just rent their cars and don’t own them, so try to give them 10%. holiday inn hotels are reasonably priced www.wynnmacau.com Macau taxi drivers are generally terrible, InterContinental Group properties. Holiday so only tip if you get a good one. Inn Macau, 82-86 Rua de Pequim, City Centre, sHOP: The Venetian Macao’s Grand Tipping: A 10% service charge is pHOTO: GETTY IMAGES automatically added to the bill at most tel: +853 2878 3333, www.ichotelsgroup.com Canal shoppes is a spectacular place, restaurants and bars, very little of which with a painted blue sky above the 9.3ha goes to your server. – Sheila Chan,head EAT: It’s hard to put one Macanese replica of Venice. It’s complete with canals of Program Management and Traveller & Transaction Services, HK restaurant above the others, but in this and gondoliers and hundreds of high-end For more HK & Macau tips, see p68 case the quality of food, great service, low shops. www.venetianmacao.com 36 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009