General Fashion Manual

G l F hi M lGeneral Fashion Manual
Prepared by: Ehab Saber Jan.: 2015

elinen timeashionFa
3 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

n 17th
century
hion
(1600s)
of fasory o
Charles II introduced the men's dress code for English
courts men were expected to wear a long coat, a
waistcoat, a cravat, a wig and knee breeches ( trousers ).
histoThe

19th
centuryn
(1800s)
hion
The half coat came into style in the early 19th century,
towards the end of the century this morphed into the
of fas
y p
looser and more comfortable ( morning coat ) in the late
19th century the dinner jacket was invented and started
to be worn to informal events.
ory ohistoThe

Early 20th
century
(1900s)
it ith h t j k t l h lf t• suit with shorter jacket replaces half coat
• Suitable for everyday or business wear
• Black tie and tuxedo become the choice for formal occasions
• High‐waist, straight‐leg trousers pair with double‐breasted
waistcoatswaistcoats
Fashion Icons:
•Charlie Chaplin
•Al Capone
•Rudolph valentine

1930s
Suiting trends
• Loose –fitting coats come into vogue.
• Trousers tapered at the ankle.
• Double-breasted suits still popular.
• Shoulders squared with padding.
Fashion Icons:
•Clark Gable•Clark Gable
•Henry Fonda
•The duke Windsor7 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1940s
Suiting trends
• With the rationing of fabrics due to the war
• Well prompts fabric rationing
• Suits and jackets cut as straight as possible
• Grey flannel become popular
Fashion Icons:
•Frank Sinatra
•Humphrey Bogart•Humphrey Bogart
•Fred Astaire

1950s
Suiting trends
• Pleated-front trousers return
• Leisure wear becomes more popular• Leisure wear becomes more popular
• Suits worn mainly for the office or special
rights out
Fashion Icons:
*dean martin
*Cary grant*Cary grant
*James dean

1960s
Suiting trends
• Mood comes into vogue
• Skinny fit suits• Skinny-fit suits
• Ankle –length trousers
• Collarless jackets
Fashion Icons:
•The Beatles•The Beatles
•Michael Canine
•Brian Jones10 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1970sn
Suiting trends
hion
• Jackets feature wide lapel
of fas
• colorful trousers
• Single‐button jackets
ory ohisto
Fashion Icons:
•David Bowie
k
The
•Mick Jaggier
•Burt Reynolds

1980s
Suiting trends
• Power suits come into fashion
• Some favor linen and slouchy fabrics
• Pleated‐front trousers in vogue
Fashion Icons:
•Richard careRichard care
•Michael Douglas
•Don Johnson

1990s
Suiting trends
• Slim‐fit suits return
• Emphasis on minimalistic design
• Skinny trousers with slim tie
Fashion Icons:
•Brad Pitt•Brad Pitt
•Christian Bale
•George Clooney13 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

2000s
Suiting trends
• Luxury fabrics popularized by celebrities
• Emphasis on individuality
• Accessories like pocket squares returnAccessories like pocket squares return
Fashion Icons:
•David BeckhamDavid Beckham
•Robert Downey
•P. Diddy

2010s
Suiting trends
• Bespoke, masculine suits in favor
• Similar to tailored styles of 1960s
• Solid and plaids acceptable as long as they are well‐made
• Classic style with modern touches
Fashion Icons:
•Jon Hamm•Jon Hamm
•Justin Timberlake
•Idris Elba15 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

DETAILS OF A SUIT
A suit is a wardrobe necessity. Even if you do not plan on wearing one every day,
you'll need it for job interviews, business meetings, funerals, weddings and other
special occasions.
While you have many options to play with, from fabric to stitching to detailing,
correct fit is key. To look sharp, the fit must be right.

SUIT & BLAZER FITS
It really is all about the fit. The saying "the suit makes the man" is
right: a badly‐fitted suit actually can make you look less dressed
up than no suit at all.up than no suit at all.

SLIM FITSLIM FIT
Just like it sounds, Slim fit is fitted closer to
•Slimmer shoulder base
the body, without excess fabric. That doesn't
mean it fits like a superhero bodysuit; Slim Fit
can be worn by a lot of different body types.
•Slimmer through the
body
•Narrower sleeve
•Shortest rise•Shortest rise
•Slimmest leg

SMART FIT – MODERN FIT
Smart fit falls between the other two: it's not
SMART FIT MODERN FIT
•Less Wider shoulder base
too boxy, but it has more room than a Slim Fit.
smart Fit is a great choice for guys who want
something a little more fashion‐forward than
Less Wider shoulder base
Classic Fit, but are not sure they can pull off
Slim Fit.
•Narrower through the body
•Shorter riseShorter rise
•narrower leg

REGULAR FIT
TRADITIONAL FIT – CLASSIC FIT
l f f bl d
•Wider on the shoulders
Regular fit is comfortable and easy to wear.
It's cut generously through the chest and
waist, which means less constriction for you,
but still maintains a clean body shape
•Looser waist
but still maintains a clean body shape.
•Looser‐fitting pants

FIND YOUR PERFECT FIT
l l l id fireal men real style guide to fit

Sometimes looking sharp is all about
wearing clothes properly

The Gentleman's Guide to Wearing A Suit. Detailing the small details
you need to get right when wearing a suit!

BUTTONSBUTTONS

SLEEVESSLEEVES
fixedfunctional

TYPE OF LAPELS

VENTSVENTS
2 back opening One back opening

TYPE OF POCKETS
FLAP POCKETHACKING POCKETBESOM POCKET FLAP POCKETHACKING POCKETBESOM POCKET
PATCH POCKETBELLOWS POCKET PATCH POCKETBELLOWS POCKETTICKET POCKET

TROUSERS

Regular fit – Traditional fit
•Standard lapel
•Wider on the shoulders
Regular fit Traditional fit
•Looser waist
•Longer length jacket•Pleated pant •Longer length jacket
i h l
•Pleated pant
•Straight legs
•Looser‐fitting pants

Smart fit – Modern fitSmart fit Modern fit
•Less Wider shoulder base
•Narrower lapel
•Narrower through the body
•slightly longer in the length
•Flat front pant
•Shorter rise
•narrower leg

Slim fitSlim fit
•Slimmest lapel
•Slimmer shoulder base
•Narrower sleeve •Slimmer through the body
•Shorter jacket
•Shortest rise
•Slimmest leg

TYPES OF COLLAR

TYPES OF CUFFS

TIESTIES
POCKET SQUARE
BOUTONNIERE
CUFFLINKS

POCKET SQUARE
Pocket squares are a must for your blazer
or jacket ‐ will give your look that edge.
4 reasons to wear a pocket square:
/1829656072317899http://www.pinterest.com/pin/
How to fold a pocket square
SSmlQ87y6F7https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

BOUTONNIERE
• The boutonniere is a type of lapel pin, when you
use a flower on its own without a pin.
• It just goes to show how the addition of somethingj g g
so small can totally transform a look or help to
emphasize the image you wish .Its effect is to draw
attention to a particular part of your outfit.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MytLA0tM8I4
_pfspHs7J2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m

CUFF LINKS
Cuff links first appeared in the
early 17th century as an
adornment alternative to the
ribbons and lace previously favored
by the nobility and came into
middle‐class fashion during the
Industrial Revolution.
They remain a refined furnishing
that adds elegance to any shirt
h h ffwith a French cuff.
Cuff links should match your belt
buckle, wristwatch, collar bar and
h ld l d l k h ldtie holder; colored links should
complement your shirt and tie.

The new move in suits and sport coats is the
big, proud pattern, inspired by the natty armor
of Italian magnates and British royalty. Here'sg y y
how to tell your glen plaid from your gun check
and put it all together like a boss

Difference bet. Sport coat & Blazer
DIFFERENCE BET. SPORT COAT & BLAZER
There are characteristics and qualities that
are exclusive to each, though it’s become
common and acceptable to use the terms
interchangeablyinterchangeably.
Some things to look for in a classic sport coat
are weightier fabrics (think tweed, corduroy,
wool, cashmere) and flapped pockets.
Blazers tend to be more casual by nature,
typically offered in cotton, lightweight wools
and silk.
Blazer pockets don’t necessarily have flapsp y p
and tend to skew towards the casual.
However, with the hybrid jackets out there
today and so many modern design elements,
these traditional rules have becomethese traditional rules have become
somewhat hackneyed. We recommend
focusing less on what you call it and more on
how you wear it.

Plaid blazersYou can be forgiven if you can't tell the names of
diff h k d l id
PLAID BLAZERS
different checked plaid
But now, suddenly, that's changing. Yep, fall/Winter
suits and jackets in ultra traditional fabrics have
been resurrected. They're popping up on the
runways and accordingly in stores,
So what's the difference between a jacket you might
see on Prince Charles and one you'll see on the
Milan runway now?
It starts with the fit. no more sacks, but these new
they are cut slimmer and shorter, with higher
armholes, minimal lining, and natural shoulders.
The other key to making these trade jackets fresh is
to style them up aggressively.
Instead of going with a white shirt and a solid tie,
attack a patterned jacket with more patterns. Here,
we'll show you exactly how it's done—and make
sure you never wonder what the hell glen plaid
looks like ever again.

Glen PlaidChecked Plaid

Blanket PlaidHounds tooth

Wi dWindowpane

Horizontal stripes Pi t iHorizontal stripes Pinstripes

Ch lk t iChalk stripes

HerringboneHerringbone

all colors fit into three categories: cool, warm and neutral .while you can select all
your colors from the same group, it is often possible to achieve a more powerful
effect by introducing a color from one of the other groupseffect by introducing a color from one of the other groups.

Warm colors
Warm colors tend to have an exciting effect, however when these colors are used g ,
alone they can over‐ stimulate, generating, emotions of anger and violence when
choosing warm tones adding colors from another group will help to balance this.

cool colors
Cool colors tend to have a calming effect on the viewer .used alone how‐ever, these g ,
colors can have a cold or impersonal feel, so when choosing cool colors, it may by
wise to add a color from another group warmth to your palette

Natural colors
Neutral colors are a great selection to mix with cool or warm palette .they are great for
backgrounds in designs and tend down the use of other bold colors. black is added to
create a darker shade while white is added to create a lighter " tint "

MIXING COLORS

Pastel colors
Pastels or pastel colors are the family of colors which, when
described in the color space, have high value and low to
intermediate saturation. The name comes from pastels, art media
characteristic of this color family The colors of this family arecharacteristic of this color family. The colors of this family are
usually described as "soothing“ "soft", "near neutral", "milk",
"washed out“.
Lemon, Mauve, Powder Blue, Rose, Peach, Sea foam, Ivory, Lavender, Jade,
Mint.

Mauve Blue Rose SimonYellow Light Green
Ivory Lavender Mint GreenJade Green

Earth tone is a color scheme that draws from a color palette of browns, tans, warm
grays, and greens. The colors in an earth tone scheme are muted and flat in an
emulation of the natural colors found in dirt, moss, trees and rocks. Many earthemulation of the natural colors found in dirt, moss, trees and rocks. Many earth
tones originate from clay earth pigments, such as umber, ochre, and sienna.

Acrylic is a synthetic fiber with soft, wool –like feel
A li f b i t d t b i t t t li ht & i kliAcrylic fabric tends to be more resistant to sunlight & wrinkling
Many dress contain acrylic fibers.
Acrylic is machine washable and retain color very well
A natural fiber obtained from the under‐hair of the camel
it is relatively close to cashmere
appropriate for coats and jackets very soft hand
Canvas in heavy firm strong fiber often made of cotton

Cashmere wool is a yarn made from fibers obtained from the goatsCashmere wool is a yarn made from fibers obtained from the goats
appropriate for all climates a high moisture content allows
insulation properties to change with the RH in thaw air
hair fiber are collected during spring china mania Pakistan turkey
central Asia produce pure cashmere
cotton is soft natural vegetable fiber that grow around the seed g g
of the cotton plant
cotton is a fabric of medium strength and dye as well
cotton absorbs moisture
most fabric made from cotton are machine washablemost fabric made from cotton are machine washable

Denim is a cotton twill textile that mostly used for jeans
it can also be combined with LYCRA to add stretch
denim suitable for pants jackets and skirts
Flannel is a warm medium‐weight fabric made from cottonFlannel is a warm medium weight fabric made from cotton
Gabardine is a durable tightly woven twill with diagonal ribs
it can be woven in many different fibers alone or blended
cotton rayon and wool are the most common fiber

herringbone is twill weave producing zigzag pattern resemblingherringbone is twill weave producing zigzag pattern resembling
the varying diagonals of a fish backbone
Silk is a protein fiber that can be woven into textiles.
Poplin is a tightly woven medium weight fabric made of cotton orp g y g
polyester/cotton blend.
It is often given a water-repellant finish. Poplin is commonly used for
shirts. Poplin is machine-washable.71 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

Linen is produced using the flax plant.
Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily
unless blended with manufactured fibersunless blended with manufactured fibers.
Jersey is a slightly elastic machine knit dress fabric
Jersey knits are usually made of wool or cotton but can
also be made from rayon or synthetic fibers.
Rayon is synthetic textile fiber made from generated cellulose that is
d i d f t bl tt R h ilk f l l tderived from vegetable matter. Rayon has a silky feel, lustrous
appearance, good qualities and dyes as well.

How to dress for an interview?
FORMAL
BUSINESSBUSINESS
INTERVIEW
ATTIREATTIRE

How to dress for an interview?
CASUAL
BUSINESSBUSINESS
INTERVIEW
ATTIREATTIRE

Dressing FOR THE OCCASION
EVER WONDERED WHAT YOU SHOULD
BE WEARING TO EACH OCCASION ?BE WEARING TO EACH OCCASION ?
Here is a guide to the top 4 suits and blazers that will keep you
looking fresh , sharp and occasion appropriate.

WHEN TO WEAR ?
EVENING WEDDINGSEVENING WEDDINGS
EVENING WEDDINGS RECEPTION
CORPORATE DINNER PARTIES

corporate
WHEN TO WEAR ?WHEN TO WEAR ?
WORK FOR A BANK
INTERVIEW WITH CORPORATE AGENCYINTERVIEW WITH CORPORATE AGENCY
CASUAL EVENING WEDDING79 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

WHEN TO WEAR ?WHEN TO WEAR ?
INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE AGENCY
DINNER AND EVENTS DRINKS WITH FRIENDSDINNER AND EVENTS DRINKS WITH FRIENDS
DINNER DATE80 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

WHEN TO WEAR ?
INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE AGENCY
COUNTRY WORK
MEETING THE PARENTS FOR THE FIRST TIME81 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

How to dress for your body type??
( f )( for men )

For bulky or fat man
• V-neck collar and long sleeves t-shirts
and sweaters are perfect for him , this
type of collar will draw the eye
downwarddownward.
•Turtle neck and t-shirts should be
shunned away
• For bulky and fat man horizontal
stripes are absolute no ,they should
avoid wearing these patternsavoid wearing these patterns
• They should always opt for jackets
with no vents or single vents , so not
f i j k t d bl ithprefer wearing jackets and blazers with
double vents
• Pinstripes suits are the best dress-upp p
clothing for fat people .

THINGS THAT ARE A MUST HAVE
THE FIT SHOULD BE
CLOSE , BUT NEVER
TIPS
TOO TIGHT
CONTRAST SHIRTSTRAIGHT LEG JEANSV-NECK T-SHIRT

THINGS TO AVOID

For tall and skinny man
• If you have a lean and thin figure , opting for
horizontal and diagonal stripes instead of
vertical stripes ones would make the best
look horizontal stripes will make yourlook , horizontal stripes will make your
shoulder look broader
• Tall and skinny men should avoid wearing
monochromatic looks , a similar color all over
your lean body will make your look all the
more thinner
• Experiment with different shades and colors
• Lighter colors like white , cream , light
h d f bl d l ill kshades of blue , grays and pastel , will make
your look visually bulky and large
• Patterns such as windowpane and classicPatterns such as windowpane and classic
plaid make you look fuller

THINGS THAT ARE A MUST HAVE
TIPS
FIND A TAILOR YOU
TRUST , HE WILL
HELP YOU FIND THE
RIGHT FIT

THINGS TO AVOID

For short man•DO stick with vertical patterns.
h ll h h ’ h h k h k•DO go with small patterns. Whether it’s gingham, stripes, checks, or whatever, make
sure it’s small.
• DO wear clothes that fit close to the body. (Think slim, not skinny.)
•Should make use accessories such as a tie or a hat and watch , Accessories confine
the attention of people on the face there by making them overlook the height
•DON’T wear broad, horizontal patterns.
•DON’T wear shoes with thick soles to look taller. NEVER buy “risers” (shoes that are
created for the very purpose of adding inches) .
•for short man people square toed shoes are the perfect choice
•DON’T buy baggy clothes. They won’t make you look bigger. In fact, they make you
look smaller and younger.
•DON’T wear double‐breasted jackets Stick with single‐breasted one or two button•DON T wear double‐breasted jackets. Stick with single‐breasted, one or two button
jackets.
•DON’T shy away from tailoring. Basic alterations can go a long way.
•Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes your legs look shorter. • Don’t wear fat
ties and wide lapels; keep it slim.

WHAT TO DO
AND
WHAT NOT TO DOWHAT NOT TO DO

Shirts & ties
Matching solid colors is easy , but combining patterns is the way to go if you
want to add some character to your outfit . There is no right or wrong , just stay
away from looking like an optical illusion by following these basic rules
FRIST RULE OF THUMB
Start with your shirt : establish the primary color of your shirt and then
choose a tie with a similar color anywhere in its pattern.

SECOND RULE OF THUMB
Your collar and tie should be in proportion with each other.
Also remember to pair large patterns with smaller ones, you want your
patterns to visually complement each other.

THE “SOMETIMES, ALWAYS, NEVER “3-BUTTON RULE
SINGLE BREASTED SINGLE BUTTON SUIT
Very easy to remember:
When standing you must button the only button
h i i bWhen sitting you must unbutton
SINGLE BREASTED TWO BUTTON SUIT
The top button must be fastened when standing
And the second button should never be fastened
Jacket must be unbuttoned when seated
SINGLE BREASTED THREE BUTTON SUIT
There are two options :
When standing fasten top tow buttons and leave theWhen standing fasten top tow buttons and leave the
third unfastened or fasten only the middle button

D & d ’Do & don’t
•WEAR DEODORANT, BRUSH YOUR TEETH, TRIM AND POLISH NAILS ,
YBRUSH YOUR HAIR
•WEAR APPROPRIATE JEWELRY
W•WEAR NATURAL LOOKING MAKEUP
•DON’T WEAR OVERPOWERING COLOGNE ORDON T WEAR OVERPOWERING COLOGNE OR
PERFUME
•DON’T TRY OUT ELABORATE HAIR STYLE
•DON’T WEAR TRENDY CLOTHING, KEEP IT CLASSIC

Basic wardrobe for men

The fabulous four
If you are in the process of building your classic wardrobe, you don’t
need ten suits to start with; you only need the timeless four.
These are the Fabulous Four:
1. The Standard Blue:
Great for business, lunches, summer dinners, or casual parties.
Can be worn with black or brown shoes, even white if you’re
daring. Reflects well by a pool. Standard blue means navy,
with no room for paler shades.
2. The Classic Gray:
f h d k d h d l k d d lAppropriate for everything and even makes a red‐head look dandy. Grays also are
the best with patterns, especially anything in the chevron family. Start with plain,
move to window‐pane. Even such, the gray is never controversial. It’s
the Switzerland of suits.
3. The Basic Black:
Our favorite and the perennial classic, it’s a fit at the Oscars or your sister’s wedding,
the perfect compliment to a good white shirt, beloved by gangsters, designers, and p p g y g g g
undertakers (those jobs with the highest doses of fashion‐conscious aptitudes;
respectively, aggression, vanity, and wisdom). If you only own one suit, this is it. You
can even be buried in it.
4. Any of the above, with pinstripes.

How many jackets do I need??
We think there are three essential jackets every men should
own:
1 ‐ A navy blazer:y
navy is a classic choice – timeless‐ confidence, it can be worn
casually with chino and oxford shirt or dressed up with a more
formal pant, shirt and tie.
2 – A tweed blazer is a fall essential that works well with jeans
As the weather gets cooler, it can also be worn in place of a
winter overcoat when layered with a cashmere or wool sweater
of turtleneck.
3 – A linen sport coat, which instantly dresses up everything from a
mercerized cotton polo to tailored shirt.

Basic casual wardrobe
WHITE SHIRT DENIM V-NECK TEES DENIM SHORTS BASIC CARDIGAN
BASIC BAG
STRUCTURED BLAZER
TRENCH COAT
DENIM JACKETS CHINO PLAID SHIRT

How to roll sleeves ???

The turn up vs. the roll
Roll Turn upRoll Turn up
THE RULE:•THE RULE:
•If the fabric is formal ( wool suit pant) say turn up.
•If the fabric is casual ( chinos – jeans ) say roll and enjoy the cool look.

Turn‐up on pants of just about any
fabric is preferred.
When you're dealing with heavier corduroys and tweeds, the turn‐
up give the pants some weight, so they fall better.
Go for a turn‐up, make it at least an inch and a
quarter deep.
As for the break, keep it classic, where the front of your pants hits
the top bit of your shoes and the back of them touches the tops of
your heels.
That always works—but if you know what you're doing, then you
can play around a bit and
show a little ankle.
Bring a pair of shoes to the tailor's to get the length just right
Always follow that old rule 'Measure twice, cut once.’ It's easy to
go a little shorter, but it's impossible to go a little longer."

TURN UP
TURNED UP BEST FOR
RTALL MEN , UN TURNED
UP FOR SHORT

Matching your shoes with your suit

Skinny tie – slim tie

Knit ties
Tweed, with check, spotted pocket square and knitted tie...somehow it works , , p p q

What is the right Tie Bar Length?

How to knot your tie???

6 ways to wear a scarf
1 2The SophisticateThe City Slicker
1 2

3 4The ConnoisseurThe Ivy Leaguer
3 4

5 6The WeekenderThe Jet Setter
5 6The WeekenderThe Jet Setter

Blazer, sports coat, suit difference, p ,
•Solid•Solid
•No Patten
•Metal buttons
•Has pattern
•Has color
•Different weights
•Has matching pants

the gentleman's guide to shoes

D bl b t d it•Double‐breasted suits
•Grey flannel
•Colorful trousers
•Skinny‐fity
•wide lapel
•Single‐button jackets
•Power suits
•fixed buttons•fixed buttons
•Functional buttons
•Primary
•Secondary
•Turtleneck
•Banker shirt
•Fasten
•tertiary
•Corporate
•Confine
•Deep v‐neck
•Contrast shirt
•Vogue
•Chucks converse
Deep v neck
•Vertical stripes
•alterations
•Roll
• turn up
•Metal buttons

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