1. Fiber Testing and Evaluation Fajar Pitarsi Dharma
Surakarta,
14-15 September 2022
2. Agenda Grade Cotton
Fiber Fineness
Fiber Strength and Elongation
Fiber Length
Maturity Fiber
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3. Introduction
Fiber Testing and Evaluation determines how good
fiber are, that compared with the standard.
Fiber testing and Evaluation determines the value of
cotton fiber in every quality checked
Fiber testing and evaluation is important to
determines the price of cotton and what can we do in
spun process.
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5. Cotton Grade
testing
Pengujian grade serat
kapas merupakan proses
pembandingan serat
dengan standar (grade
box) secara visual yang
dilakukan oleh seorang
cotton classer
6. Factors affecting the grade of cotton
Impurities
a. Vegetable matter
b. Mineral material
c. Sticky contaminations
d. Other foreign matter
e. Fiber Fragments
Neps
1. up to 150 = very low;
2. 150 - 250 = low;
3. 250 - 350 = average;
4. 350 - 450 = high;
5. above 550 = very
high.
Dust
1. Additional stress on
personnel
2. Environmental
Problems
3. Effects on the product
4. Stress on the
Machines
7. Impurities
Vegetable matter
1. Vegetable matter in
cotton are:
a. Husk portions
b. Seed fragments
c. Stem Fragments
d. Leaf Fragments
e. Wood Fragments
Mineral material
1. Mineral Material in
cotton are:
a. Earth
b. Sand
c. Ore dust picked up in
transport
d. Dust picked up in
transport
Sticky contaminations
a. Honewdew (insect
sugar)
b. Grease, oil, tar
c. additives
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8. Impurities
Other Foreign Matter
a. Metal fragments
b. Cloth fragments
c. Packing material
Fiber fragments
1. Fiber particles (which finally
make up the greater portion
of the dust)
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9. Impurities
1. This foreign material can lead to extreme
disturbances during processing.
2. Metal parts can cause fires or damage card
clothing.
3. Cloth fragments and packing material can lead
to foreign fibers in the yarn and thus to its
unsuitability for the intended application.
4. Vegetable matter can lead to drafting
disturbances, yarn breaks, filling-up of card
clothing, contaminated yarn, etc.
5. Mineral matter can cause deposits, high wear
rates in machines (grinding effects, especially
apparent in rotor spinning), etc.
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10. Impurities
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11. Impurities
American cotton as given in the literature of the Trützschler company. The scale
below represents the degree of trash:
• up to 1.2 % = very clean;
• 1.2 - 2.0 % = clean;
• 2.1 - 4.0 % = medium;
• 4.1 - 7.0 % = dirty;
• 7.1 % and more = very dirty.
ITMF publishes biannually a survey on cotton contamination and states most
affected origins.
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12. Neps
1. Neps are small entanglements or knots of
fibers. In general, two types of neps can
be distinguished: fiber neps and seedcoat
neps, that is, small knots that consist only
of fibers and others containing foreign
particles such as husk, seed or leaf
fragments.
2. There is a relationship between maturity
index and neppiness. Neppiness is also
dependent, exponentially, on fiber
fineness, because fine fibers have less
longitudinal stiffness than coarser fibers.
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Based on the consolidated findings of Uster Technologies Inc.
(Zellweger Luwa AG), the following scale represents the amount of
neps per gram in 100 % cotton bales:
• up to 150 = very low;
• 150 - 250 = low;
• 250 - 350 = average;
• 350 - 450 = high;
• above 550 = very high.
14. Dust
Dust consists of small and microscopic
particles of various substances, which are
present as suspended particles in gases and
sink only slowly, so that they can be
transported in air over substantial distances.
In accordance with a classification system
established by the International Committee
for Cotton Testing Methods (ITMF), the
following types are to be distinguished:
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Particle Size (µm)
Trash Above 500
Dust 50-500
Microdust 15-50
Breathable dust Below 15
15. Problem Created by dust
Additional stress on personnel:
1. • dust is unpleasant, e.g. for
eyes and nose;
2. • it can induce allergies;
3. • it can induce respiratory
disease (byssinosis).
Environmental problems:
1. • dust deposits;
2. • accumulations, which can
fall into the machines;
3. • contamination of the air-
conditioning.
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16. Problem Created by dust
Effects on the product:
1. • quality deterioration directly;
2. • or indirectly through machine
faults.
Stress on the machines:
1. dust accumulations leading to
operating disturbances;
2. jamming and running out of true;
3. increased yarn unevenness;
4. more end breaks;
5. rapid wear of machine
components (e.g. rotors)
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17. Relationship between Fiber and Yarn on
Ring Spun Yarn
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18. Standard Cotton Grade
Cotton Grade categorized with 5 color
classification,
• gray,
• white,
• spotted,
• tingged dan
• yellow-stained.
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19. Gray White Spotted Tinged Yellow-
stained
GMG Good Middling GM Sp GMT GMYS
SMG Strict Middling SM Sp SMT SMYS
MG Middling M Sp MT MYS
SLMG Strict Low
Middling
SLM Sp SLMT
Low Middling LM Sp LMT
Strict Good
Ordinary
Good Ordinary
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20. Fiber Fineness
(Cotton)
The fineness determines
how many fibers are
present in the cross-section
of a yarn of given
thickness.
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Fiber fineness influences
primarily:
• spinning limit;
• yarn strength;
• yarn evenness;
• yarn fullness;
• drape of the fabric;
• luster;
• handle;
• productivity of the process.
21. Specification of
Fineness
With the exception of wool and hair
fibers, fiber fineness cannot be
specified by reference to diameter as in
the case of steel wire, because the
section is seldom circular and is thus
not easily measurable. As in the case
of yarns and fibers, fineness is usually
specified by the relation of mass
(weight) to length:
𝑡𝑒𝑥 =
𝑚𝑎𝑠𝑠 (𝑔)
𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑘𝑚)
𝑜𝑟 𝑑𝑡𝑒𝑥 =
𝑚𝑎𝑠𝑠 (𝑑𝑔)
𝑘𝑚
Mic VALUE FINENESS
up to 3.1 Very fine
3.1-3.9 Fine
4.0-4.9 Medium (premium
range)
5.0-5.9 Slihtly coarse
Above 6 coarse
23. Strength and
Elongation
The minimum strength for a textile fiber
is approximately 6 cN/tex (about 6 km
breaking length)
Some significant breaking strengths of
fibers are:
• polyester fiber 35 - 60 cN/tex
• cotton 15 - 40 cN/tex
• wool 12 - 18 cN/tex
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24. Strength
In relation to cotton,
the strength of fiber bundles was
measured and stated as the Pressley
value. The following scale of values
was used (93 000 p.s.i = 93):
• 93 and above = excellent
• 87 - 92 = very strong
• 81 - 86 = strong
• 75 - 80 = medium
• 70 - 74 = fair
• 70 and below = weak
HVI instrument
For the commonly used HVI-CC
calibration the following scale of
values is used (1/8 in. gauge
strength g/tex) [27]:
• 32 and above = very strong
• 30 - 32 = strong
• 26 - 29 = base
• 21 - 25 = weak
• 20 and below = very weak
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25. Elongation
permanent elongation: that part of the
extension through which the fiber does
not return on relaxation;
elastic elongation: that part of the
extension through which the fiber does
return on relaxation;
breaking elongation: the maximum
possible extension of the fiber until it
breaks, i.e. the permanent elongation
and the elastic elongation together.
26. Elongation
The greater crease-resistance of
wool compared with cotton
arises, for example, from the
difference in their elongation:
• cotton 6 - 10 %;
• wool 25 - 45 %
The following scale represents
the cotton fiber elongation
• below 5.0 % = very low;
• 5.0 - 5.8 % = low;
• 5.9 - 6.7 % = average;
• 6.8 - 7.6 % = high;
• above 7.6 % = very high
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27. Fiber strength and
Elongation standard
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28. Fiber Length Testing
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29. The influence of length
Fiber length influence:
1. spinning limit;
2. yarn strength;
3. yarn evenness;
4. handle of the product;
5. luster of the product;
6. yarn hairiness;
7. productivity.
Productivity is influenced via:
1. the end-breakage rate;
2. the quantity of waste;
3. the required turns of twist
(which affects the handle);
4. general spinning conditions
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30. Specification of length
The trade and the processor
commonly use the following data,
such as:
1. classifying staple (trade staple,
classer’s staple length);
2. upper quartile length (with end oriented
methods);
3. upper half mean length or mean length
(according to weight) (x– );
4. 1 %, 2.5 %, 5 % or 50 % span length
measurements (as setting staples) (e.g.
2.5 % span length).
The following length groupings
are currently used in stating the
trade staple (classer‘s staple) for
cotton:
1. short staple: 1˝ or less;
2. medium staple: 1 1/32˝ - 1 1/8˝;
3. long staple: 1 5/32˝ - 1 3/8˝;
4. extra-long staple: 1 13/32˝ and above.
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31. Specification of length
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1. The following length groupings are
currently used in stating the trade
staple (classer‘s staple) for cotton:
1. tufts of cotton fibers that are on the clamp the loose
fibers to the right of the clamp are removed. For
example, the number of fibers is 12,000 strands, if we
assume the clamping line moves to the right until the
position of the number of fibers is only 300 strands or
equal to 2.5% of 12,000 fibers.
2. The distance is 2.5% span length (2.5% SL). In this
way 67.7% SL and 50% SL can be described. This
measurement approach is considered closer to the real
situation, namely the fibers are arranged randomly as
in the process.
32. Fibre Length Testing
Machine
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Machine for fiber length testing is
Fibrograph. Fibrograph machine are:
• Fibrograph digital
• Fibrosampler dan sisir
• Kapas kalibrasi
• Sikat
Testing standard for fiber length using SNI
ISO 4913:2010
33. Evaluation of maturity
— Microscopic method
The cotton fiber consists of cell wall and lumen. The
maturity index is dependent upon the thickness of this cell
wall. Schenek [1] suggests that a fiber is to be considered
as mature when the cell wall of the moisture-swollen fiber
represents 50 - 80 % of the round cross-section, as
immature when it represents 30 - 45 %, and as dead
when it represents less than 25 %. Since some 5 %
immature fibers are present even in a fully matured boll,
cotton stock without immature fibers is unimaginable: the
quantity is the issue.
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34. Maturity
Immature fibers have neither adequate
strength nor adequate longitudinal
stiffness, they therefore lead to:
• loss of yarn strength;
• neppiness;
• a high proportion of short fibers;
• varying dyeability;
• processing difficulties, mainly at the
card.
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It can be assumed that fibers of under 4 - 5 mm
will be lost in processing (as waste and fly),
fibers up to about 12 - 15 mm do not contribute
much to strength but only to fullness of the
yarn, and only those fibers above these lengths
produce the other positive characteristics in the
yarn.
35. Maturity
Penyebab terjadinya kapas tidak
dewasa
1. Kekeringan (draught) –
2. Kedinginan (frost : beku)
Immaturity fiber :
a. Lebih mudah putus selama proses
b. Mempunyai kecenderungan untuk
membentuk nep
c. Mempunyai kecenderungan membelit di
sekitar daun dan kotoran-kotoran,
sehingga lebih sulit dibersihkan dan
meningkatkan jumlah limbah.
d. Mengurangi kenampakan benang.
e. Warna tidak rata dalam pencelupan.
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Kedewasaan (%) Nilai
70-73 Muda
74-79 Sedang
>80 Dewasa
36. Maturity can be
tested with:
1. Microscope
2. Micromate
3. AFIS
4. NIR
Standard reference Maturity test with
microscope is SNI ISO 4912:2010
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37. ~ TERIMA KASIH ~
Don’t just get involved. Fight for your seat at the table. Better yet, fight
for a seat at the head of the table.” - Barack Obama.
“And we are here is one of the process to fight and get our success” –
@fajarpd1
