Born in 1937, married Barbara, but lost her 43 years later. I felt as if the world had stopped. But a change sort of evolved. I travelled to Europe. I bought an old car, a GPS and compass and was off, wandering around on winding, single lane roads often unsealed, through small towns and villages.

1. Karen and Compass, Phe and Me - On Roads without Lines
Graeme Robin ...Travel
An introduction
(This journey is available in full in BOOK 4, available soon)
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2. About me
I was born in 1937, married Barbara in 1963, but lost her to a dreadful cancer 43 years later. I felt
as if the world had stopped. Life was suddenly not as precious as it had been. I didn’t care much.
But a change sort of evolved.
I travelled to Europe. I bought an old car. Then a GPS. Then a
compass. That made four of us – Karen (the robot voice on
the GPS) and Compass (just that), Phe (for Fiat - a 1993 left-
hand drive diesel sedan) and Me.
Suddenly it was “we” and not “I”’.
We started to drive around Scandinavia, Iceland the Arctic
Circle and into Russia all the time avoiding the major roads
and highways as far as possible – in other words, On Roads
Without Lines. We were just wandering around on winding,
single lane roads often unsealed, through small towns and
villages, seeing the people at their normal everyday lives and
work. Trying to get a feel for each country - to put a tag on it. I took a lot of photos and kept a
daily journal. So a book evolved.
Had this suddenly put meaning back into my life? It felt good so instead of selling Phe at the end
of the first four months I kept her for another four months of journeying this time behind what
used to be the “Iron Curtain” and another book evolved. It felt good so instead of selling Phe at
the end of the second four months I kept her for another four months of journeying this time
around Spain Portugal and Morocco and another book evolved. It felt good so instead of selling
Phe at the end of the third four months I kept her for another four months of journeying this
time to the Italy the Middle East and the Balkans and another book has evolved.
All have been marvellous experiences of discovery - so good that I would like it to continue for
the rest of my life! How long is this old bugger going to last!
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

3. An introduction to ...
Karen and Compass, Phe and Me
On roads without lines
The border guards that carried guns and ammunition have long since gone and these areas are no
longer the exclusive domain of mysterious and scary spy novels. Only a short twenty years ago these
were frightening places with erratic political leaders, secret police and armies, rockets with nuclear
warheads and border guards with guns and bullets. Well, that was twenty years ago when there was
an Iron Curtain. Fast forward to the present day and a group of four tourists - one human and the
other three inanimate - are driving down one of these same roads at 3 am after discovering that the
Iron Curtain has really rusted away. It has has been replaced by a Lace Curtain, and when you pull the
lace aside the countries and the people behind it are friendly, helpful and welcoming.
The title of the book, “Karen and Compass, Phe and Me” introduces us to the four main characters on
this fascinating journey of discovery through Eastern Europe. It is the special interaction of these four
characters during their five months of travel that makes the book what it is. Karen is the Australian
robot voice that is built into the GPS that was bought in Belgium last year and she has to direct the
driver to an exact address without any U-turns or mistakes. Phe is a shortened name which started
as 1993 Fiat 2-litre manual sedan, born in Italy but whose early years were spent in France. Compass
plays only a minor role but takes on very important ones at various times when figuring out where
north is when Karen is rendered useless in remote areas. The role of Me, the main character, is played
by the book’s author Graeme Robin but he is often referred to as “Him” or “Grumpy” or “Dopey” or
whatever, depending upon the circumstances at the time. One time he even gets to be called “Stupid
old fart!” There are many, many “bit part” characters and they are the pictures of people and places
and things, each one with a caption that breathes life into the photograph and simultaneously adds to
the narrative.
The main character, “Grae” must be an affectionate type of guy because he seems to be able to
attract friendship and warmth from all manner of people wherever he goes. Maybe it is because he is
vulnerable. He is old - over seventy - and he is alone. His back is bent and he walks with a limp. He is
driving a cheap, little old car, but when this bloke from the other side of the world fronts up at some
out-of-the-way place in Bulgaria, the people take notice and like to give him a hand if they can. There
is another important character - an invisible one - who appears from time to time in this saga, only
gently, but often enough to make the reader aware of her presence. She is Graeme’s wife and best
friend of forty-three years, Barbara, who was stolen from him by a deadly cancer in mid-December
2006.
We get the inescapable feeling that he is really using his three mechanical companions as a staff to
lean on and to protect himself from the reality that he is travelling alone. We are left to wonder if
perhaps Phe, Karen and Compass are there as a substitute for the real companion that the cancer
stole. The arrangement of the words in the title, “Karen and Compass, Phe and Me”, also gives a
special hint about the pairing of the four main characters. The central theme of the book develops the
notion of travelling through a country and not just from one destination to another. In other words,
the “journey” between destinations can be, and most often is, more pleasurable than the destination
itself. The two main characters, Phe and Me, are allowed to enjoy the journey while the other pair
have the mission of getting them to each destination. The other fascinating thread that arises from this
breaking into two pairs is that a love triangle of sorts is set up when Karen gradually becomes more
jealous of Phe’s special attention when she is spoken to so lovingly and even gets a gentle welcoming
pat on the dashboard each morning.
The story really begins when the four gather at the The Left Hand Drive Place in Basingstoke in
England where Phe has spent the winter.
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

4. They cross the English Channel and head for the old Iron Curtain countries. Our foursome then
sets out to zig zag through many countries of the former USSR. They soon find that the traditional
ways of the locals takes the author back 50 years in time to when he himself was young and there
were grocers instead of supermarkets, horse and carts instead of cars and when the push bikes did
not have ten-speed gears. Will the people that they meet talk English? Not bloody likely! But they do
understand sign language! Graeme Robin’s unique writing style succeeds in bringing this tale and its
characters to life, with vivid descriptions that allow the anecdotes to really flow and make the book
very readable. Many of the slang words and expressions will not be found in our dictionaries but you
will know many of them anyway. You will also grow to love his “Graeme-isms” such as a favourite one
which is “touristing”, and that just has to be the present participle of the verb “to tourist” doesn’t it?
The photographs, which are interspersed with text, are many, varied and wonderful and are
guaranteed to give prospective travellers itchy feet. There is a map of Europe with the introduction
and one of each country that they pass through is included at the start of each chapter to assist the
reader to become intimately involved with the journey. Footnotes throughout have been added to
help unlock the colloquial language from Australia and beyond. This book may not fit readily into a
back pack but will be a great companion for anyone of any age who is doing the planning towards a
trip to these areas and wanting to tread in the author’s footsteps. It will also appear on many coffee
tables when tourists return and will be a reminder of their enjoyable journey. Yes, the border guards
that carried guns and ammunition have long since gone, but today it is very welcoming to hear the
new border guards say, “Have a nice holiday, Mr Robin.”
Enjoy your journey.
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

5. INTRODUCTION TO THE FOUR MAIN CHARACTERS IN THIS BOOK
Karen
Hello, my name is Karen and I am the Australian female voice that is built into the Global Positioning
System that he bought in Belgium last year. He could have chosen a male Australian voice or even an
English voice but he chose me – and I am pleased that he did because it has been a lot of fun. I don’t
think he likes me as much as he likes Phe because I hear him talking to her sometimes, especially when
I make a mistake, (well, we are all human aren’t we?), and lead us into a church graveyard and he tells
Phe, “Karen is a nerd” or “Karen – what a drop kick.” Most of the time he is very complimentary when
I lead us all to the exact address without any U-turns or mistakes. Sometimes it is very difficult to find
a particular youth hostel at a certain street address in large cities like Vienna, Prague or Moscow. I do
get cross with him though when I tell him to “make a U-turn,” and he doesn’t and so I tell him again,
and he still doesn’t take any notice, and then a third time I tell him and just to spite me he presses the
“MUTE” button. Gee! That makes me s-o-o-o mad. I can hear all that is going on but I am unable to
voice my opinion.
One day in Norway last year, I knew that we were going in the wrong direction and must have said,
“Make a U-turn” at least 20 times until he imposed the gag and turned on the mute. We must have
travelled for at least 30 minutes before he saw a lake that should not have been there and decided to
switch me back on, did a U-turn and said, “Sorry, Karen!”
Compass
Hello there, my name is Compass, and I also come from Belgium. I joined the other three at the be-
ginning of our travels but I don’t think they like me very much because they reckon I always point to
the north. Well, it is not my fault that our car has all of that steel in her dash-board. The steel attracts
my needle and no matter how hard I try I just cannot pull it away from pointing north. He should
have bought a more up-to-date car with a dash-board made of plastic and then I could easily show
them a south or west or even nor-nor-east sometimes. I work okay in the back seat but he doesn’t
want me to be there where he cannot see me. It’s just not fair!
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

6. Phe
Hello, my name is Phe. Well, that’s what he calls me. My full name is really 1993 Fiat Tempara 2-litre
turbo powered diesel manual sedan. I like “Phe” better too, don’t you? Being a Fiat, I was born in Italy
but spent all of my early years in France until eventually, I ended up in the car-yard of The Left Hand
Drive Place in Basingstoke in England. I had been there for a while, stuck down in the back corner
with another cheap car, a Citroen I think, while all of the glamour pusses like the Mercs and Jags were
up the front doing a good job at keeping likely buyers from reaching the Citroen and me.
Then one day in early June, this lovely young fellow came down the back and said to the grumpy old
man with him, “This is just the sort of car you need, Graeme.” The Grump didn’t say much and didn’t
even kick my tyres, but after they talked for a bit the two of them got in, and with Colin the boss, took
me for a spin around the block. Colin and the nice young fellow drove me well, and it was good to get
out and feel the breeze again after all those weeks cooped up at the back of the shop, but when the
Grump took the wheel we were all very, very, very scared. He couldn’t drive a car very well, especially
one with the steering wheel on the left. How we got back in one piece I don’t know. My front right
tyre hit the gutter at least four times and he missed the gears more times than I could count. Anyway,
they disappeared into the office and didn’t come back so I sighed with relief and settled back into
my corner of the yard. That was Saturday. On Monday morning, first thing, I was being all spruced up
ready for a Roadworthy Certificate and to be picked up by the Grump on Friday. I was not a happy
chappy!
Well, that is how it all started. He took a long time to get used to driving a left-hand drive car and a
long time to get used to driving on the right-hand side of the road. Nevertheless, it is all fine now and
I like him a lot. I think he likes me too as he often tells me, “Phe, you are my best mate this side of the
equator” and I know that he means it. Every morning he pats my dash-board and says “Good morn-
ing, Phe” and tells me where we are going on that particular day. He says, “Sorry” every time we hit a
bad pothole or when he crunches the gears. Nice! I didn’t like him when we first met and he didn’t
like me either, but all of that has changed and it will be sad for both of us when, in November, he gets
on a plane to fly back to Australia – and to his other car. I will get shoved inside a stuffy old barn over
the winter in England waiting for his return in June. Oh well, that’s life!
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

7. Me (Graeme)
G’day, my name is Graeme, or “He” or “Him” or “Grumpy,” depending on who you have been talking
to. The story of my life was pretty straight-forward and normal. I was born in 1937, and married
Barbara in 1963. We have two daughters and one son, all of whom are married and also have three
children each. All of our lives changed dramatically when we lost Barb to a sudden and deadly cancer.
It was devastating. She and I had been best mates for more than forty years and we had been
through good times and tough times together. As the vows said, “For richer, for poorer, in sickness and
in health, for all the days of our lives” – and that’s the way it was. There had been plenty of “blues” but
also plenty of good times. We had been a close and loving family for all of those years, and when she
was taken from us the hole that was left in our lives was just so huge that none of us had any idea
how to fill it and start over again. There is nothing unique about this story – it happens to so very
many people throughout the world every day of every year – but that doesn’t ease the pain. I didn’t
cope with it very well.
In May the following year, I left for a tour of Turkey with a bloke by the name of Hamit Ozturk, who
was born in Turkey, but has lived and worked in Newcastle, in Australia, for 30-odd years and each
year he takes a small group of Australians back to his country of birth. It was a great experience and
one I would thoroughly recommend. In my case I was anxious about travelling alone for the first time
in many years but that worked out fine. In the back of my mind I wanted to buy a car in Turkey after
Hamit’s tour was finished and set sail north to Scandinavia. Well, that didn’t quite work out, but I did
finish up in England on my nephew’s doorstep and he helped me get to the Left Hand Drive Place in
Basingstoke where I met what was to become “my best mate north of the equator!” Yes, I didn’t like
her much at first, but Italian-French sheilas tend to grow on you and so we set sail across the channel
to Brugge in Belgium – our first stop.
First stop, all right! That was when the reality and enormity of the job ahead struck me. I could only
speak English and this was a huge barrier. I was armed with a mobile phone and a world directory of
the Youth Hostels International, so in theory all I had to do was to ring ahead and book a relatively
cheap bed in a youth hostel for the following night. Great! Get to Brugge. Now where is that darned
hostel? I parked Phe and started asking directions. Four times I did this and the last time was barely
fifty metres from the address, and I still had to have it pointed out to me.
It worked out reasonably well in Brugge as all the people I had asked spoke good English, but how
would I cope in places where English was not so good? The answer came almost by accident. Before
leaving Dover I had bought an electric fridge to keep the milk (and beer) cold, but when it was
plugged into the cigarette lighter socket – no workeeee. I pulled out the lighter socket and found that
it had no wires behind it. (I knew this bloody car was no good.) There was a Bosch centre in Brugge,
and while waiting for the bloke to rewire the lighter socket, I asked about Global Positioning Systems
(GPS), or as others call them, “Satellite Navigation” (SatNav), and after a very short while became the
owner of “Karen,” who is the most amazing piece of technological equipment ever devised to help a
70-year old dope find his way around the world. It’s beaut in three ways. Firstly, you just type in the
address and she will take you there. Secondly, once you are settled into the hostel or hotel you can go
for a scenic drive around town, or look for a supermarket, or whatever, and when you are finished just
press the button and she will bring you back home. Finally, it is often extremely difficult and frustrating
to find your way out of a town, especially if road signs are thin on the ground or are in a language
other than English – but Karen always comes to the rescue – no worries!
But then, I have always been taught to “hedge your bets” – so I bought a Compass!
Hear more about Graemes’ travels at http://robingrahamtravel.blogspot.com

8. Graeme's BOOK 2
'Karen and Compass, Phe and Me - On Roads without Lines - Book 2'
is available to buy both in print and online
BOOK 2 includes Graeme’s full journey through:
Estonia and the Baltic States
Poland
Ukraine
Hungary
Romania
Bulgaria
Turkey and Georgia
and Greece
To buy BOOK 2, visit: http://www.perendale.com/browse/travel/robin/