WIL

1. BACKYARDBIODIVERSITY
Gardening for Wildlife
1
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................3
Why Natives?.........................................................................................................3
Gold Coast Vegetation Groups ...............................................................................3
GARDEN DESIGN .....................................................................................................4
Site Analysis ...........................................................................................................4
PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE...............................................................................7
Site Preparation .....................................................................................................7
Planting Guide........................................................................................................8
Garden Maintenance .............................................................................................8
HABITAT GARDENING............................................................................................11
Indoor And Balcony Gardens ................................................................................12
NATIVE PLANT PROPAGATION...............................................................................14
LOCAL NATIVE PLANTS TO GROW .........................................................................15
Ground Covers and Scramblers............................................................................16
Grasses, Sedges, and Rushes................................................................................17
Ferns and Epiphytes.............................................................................................18
Vines and Climbers...............................................................................................19
Shrubs..................................................................................................................20
Small Trees...........................................................................................................21
Large Trees...........................................................................................................22
Cycads and palms.................................................................................................23
Aquatic Plants ......................................................................................................24
GLOSSARY OF BOTANICAL TERMS .........................................................................25

2. 2
LIST OF LOCAL NATIVE PLANT NURSERIES............................................................. 26
FURTHER RESOURCES........................................................................................... 26
REFERENCES......................................................................................................... 26

3. 3
INTRODUCTION
o Explanation of biodiversity
o Why plant local natives?
o What are native plants?
o Factors impacting native vegetation
 Urbanisation
 Climate change etc
o Background for the Gold Coast
o Vegetationgroups
o What are local plants?
o Native to a certain place
Gardening for Wildlife
Why Natives?
Gold Coast is home to more than 1730 species of local native plants. They come in a
diverse range of textures, colours and sizes and can be used in any style of garden
including formal, contemporary, tropical and cottage gardens.
Why should I grow local native plants?
 they attract native birds, butterflies and frogs to your garden
 they often require less water
 they provide a food source and habitat for local fauna
 native plants are adapted to the local conditions
 native gardens are unique and attractive and complement the Gold Coast's
landscape character
 gardens filled with local native plants provide much needed additional
resources for wildlife
 they can help you avoid having environmental weeds escape from your
garden into waterways and natural areas.
Gold Coast Vegetation Groups
o veg group map
Local native plants are those that occur naturally in a location. Native vegetation
grows in groups of local native plants and these groups vary depending on local
conditions such soil, landform, aspect and climatic features such as rainfall.
When selecting the most suitable local native plants for your backyard it is useful to
understand the type of native vegetation which naturally grows on your property. It
is also important to understand the type of vegetation community birds might
come from.
When you plant the right local native plant in the right place, you save time,
money, effort, energy and you do less maintenance. You also create the most
appropriate habitat for local birds.
This map shows the historic location of vegetation groups found on the Gold Coast.

4. 4
GARDEN DESIGN
The Gold Coast with its stunning native vegetation offers a wide selection of garden
designs. That can not only look amazing and complement established flora but also
provide vital habitat for local fauna.
Successful gardens require a thorough understanding of your land, plant
requirements and what you want to get out of the garden. Whether that be a
functional outdoor space, a grove of native bushfoods, revegetating for wildlife or a
combination of all three!
Site Analysis
The first steps in designing any garden is knowing the characteristics of your land.
This will allow you to identify the pros and cons, limitations, and possibilities of
your space.
Step 1: What exists?
In the beginnings stages it is best to create a visual representation of your land
through a scaled drawing of your property. This is best done either on graph or
sketch paper and includes features such as:
o Land size: finding and taking accurate measurements of your land parcel,
established vegetation, hard landscaping features (decks, pathways, ponds,
etc.), and building dimensions will give you can good idea of potential
gardening areas.
o Retaining features: label any features (trees, paths, old garden beds, etc.) that
you might want it remove.
o Slopes: indicate if you want to retain sloping areas or work to flatten them out
before planting.
o Aspect: take note of where north is. This will help you find the direction of the
sun over your property and which areas get the most sun and shade
throughout the year.
Remember: shade can always be added artificially or through larger trees, but
sunny areas cannot be moved.
o Wind directions: knowing where cold winter winds or cooling summer breeze
come from can inform you if you want to plant a natural wind break or keep an
area open to summer breezes.
o Existing views: locate any views from windows or within the yard that you want
to keep open or screen for privacy.
o Water needs: locate water outlets and either very dry or wet areas to ensure
that the water needs of plants can be met with ease.
o Soil: the type and condition of your current soil will indicate how much work
needs to be put in to make the land suitable to plant.
o Large trees: identify areas that are not suitable for larger trees to be planted.
Full grown trees will cast shade below them, have vigorous roots that impact
nearby buildings or plumbing or create problems with leaves dropping in
gutters, ponds, or pools.

5. 5
Site Plan Example
IMAGE HERE
Step 2: What are your needs and want?
Once you know what you are working with, you can now start thinking about you
need and want in your garden. While doing this, always keep in mind what your
budget is!
The best way to do this to make a list of the things you need (essential elements
such as garden sheds, entertainment areas, clotheslines, pathways, etc.) and the
things you want (the garden style, special plants, artworks or sculptures, animal
attracting plants, etc.) and an estimate of their cost.
Ask yourself important questions such as:
o Do you prefer a cottage garden, a bush garden or a neatly pruned
architectural garden style? These will have differing costs and levels of
maintenance.
o What plant and flower colours and textures appeal to you?
o Do you want a frog pond?
o A bench under a tree to sit and relax?
o More birds or butterflies in your garden?
o Do you want to reduce or remove your lawn?
o Do you want a meandering path through different areas of the garden?
This will help in shaping the overall design of your garden. It may take time to
decide on a garden style, so collecting images, creating mood boards of ideas, and
visiting other gardens will assist in getting started and creating a vision. Creating a
list of criteria that plants will have to meet will help you in narrowing down and
speeding up your selection process.
Remember: with the Gold Coasts wide range of native plants, almost any garden
style is achievable!
Step 3: Look at your existing plants
Remember to work with your site and not against it to save time and money. Ask
yourself questions such as:

6. 6
o What plants do you need or want to remove?
o Is this process going to require multiple stages and specific equipment?
o Do local native plants work with existing exotic plants?
o Will your exotic plants outcompete any natives planted near them?
o Do you have a good range of plant layers from trees to groundcovers for
wildlife?
o What type of soil do you have? Go to page INSERT for more info on testing
and improving soils.
These factors will ultimately help you decide where and what you can plant.
Step 4: The research
Now comes the fun part of choosing your plants! With your desired garden style in
mind, create a list of the plants that meet your criteria.
Remember: to always consider a plants soil, moisture and sunlight requirements
and potential size when fully grown, as well as how it fits into your garden style!
If you are planning a larger garden or multiple garden beds, it is best to work in
sections when choosing plants. This can be done by indicating areas of differing
water or sun levels, or areas that are going to be different garden styles! For
example, a shady, damp area will require plants to be moisture and shade loving
such as ferns and other rainforest species.
Your plant list should also include how many and the cost of each plant that needed
to fill out a particular area. Tubestock (plants in 15cm tall plastic tubes) may be
smaller in the beginning but will generally catchup and outgrow larger, more
mature stock. They are also cheaper and easier to establish in difficult sites with
poor soils.
Remember: width is an important factor to consider. Always consider the final
spread of the fully grown plant when selecting how many you will need!
Make a list of other materials you will need during and after planting such as mulch,
water crystals/gel, digging and safety equipment, etc. and their related costs.
Pages INSERT can be used to help you make selections based on plant habit.
Step 5: Develop a plan
Once you have a good idea of all the features and plants you need and want in your
garden, it is time to develop a garden plan! To help develop this plan consider:
o What needs to be done before plants can be bought?
o What plants need to be planted first to create the base of your garden?
It is best to focus on one area at a time, so you are not overwhelmed. It doesn’t all
have to be done immediately, so prioritising certain areas and following a well
thought out plan will help reduce stress and work.
Finalising sketches
Using bubble diagrams to draw the basic shapes and outlines of your garden beds
and the mature width of your plants will help in developing this plan. They can be
drawn over the top of your site plan to give accurate planting placements and more
information of which plants are suited to which spots.
Remember: it is easier to change garden features on paper than after you have
broken ground, so do has many sketches as possible until you are completing happy
with everything!

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Final Garden Design Example
- Different examples of sites using native plants from lists
o Courtyards to modest backyard to large properties
IMAGE HERE
PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE
Now that you developed a thorough plan, you need to know how to plant and
maintain your garden! There are three basic elements for this is to be successful:
site preparation, planting technique and maintenance.
Site Preparation
To find and create the ideal planting location for your plants, you need to consider
its moisture and sunlight requirements, as well as its mature size.
Testing and Improving Soils
While local native plants will be suited to the original soils of the area, the soil on
your land may be depleted or imported which is common in urban development.
For a quick and simple soil type test, take a handful of slightly moist soil and try to
mould into a log shape. To test soil drainage ability, dig a hole and fill with 30cm of
water. Use the following table to identify soil type, soil drainage and improvement
suggestions.
Soil Type Texture Test Result Drainage Test Result Possible Solutions
Sand
Poor nutrient-
carrying capacity
Cannot be moulded
and feels very gritty
Water is drained in
less than 1 hour
= poor water holding
capacity
Mix compost into top 30cm
Add 75mm organic mulch
layer on top.
Loam
A rich soil
consisting of a
mixture of sand,
clayand decaying
organic materials
Can be moulded
but only into
shorter rolls and
feels slightly gritty
and crumbly
Water is drained in
2-5 hours
= good balance of
drainage and water
holding capacity
Maintain with ongoing
mulching and compost
additions.
Clay
High nutrient-
carrying capacity
Can be moulded
into long, thin rolls
and feels smooth
but pliable
Water is drained in
more than 10 hours
= poor drainage
Add gypsum to responsive
clays.
Till soil (e.g. with rotary hoe)
to 30cm.
Add organic mulch to soil
surface only.
For a more in-depth soil analysis of pH and salinity levels, a simple home testing kit
will need to be used. INSERT IMAGE of texture test example

8. 8
Weeds
Weeds, invasive or pest plants, are ones that thrive and invade areas that they
don’t naturally occur. They are not limited to exotics but can also include non-local
native plants. Weeds should be controlled before and after planting to reduce
completion. This can be done manually or chemically depending on the situation.
They are problem because they can out-compete native plants for light, water, and
nutrients. In a short time replacing natives and effectively removing food sources
and habitats for local wildlife. Therefore, it is important to know weeds of the Gold
Coast to avoid planting them or to consider removing them.
To help reduce weeds both in and outside your garden, always dispose of green
waste appropriately in Green bins. Cuttings and seeds can be carried by natural
means such wind, water, and wildlife, or by people such as on tools, vehicles,
clothing, or pets. So always make sure these things are clean before going into the
garden or other natural areas.
For a more detailed look into weeds found on the Gold Coast see the
Environmental Weeds and Native Alternative booklet, info on Pages INSERT.
Planting Guide
Once your site has been prepared you can begin digging holes and planting!
It is best to start once the weather begins to cool during Autumn, as the milder
conditions will give new plants time to establish before Winter. Try to avoid any
planting during the hot Summer months.
INSERT IMAGES of Steps
Step 1
Before digging, lay out pots where they will be planted. This will give you a great
indication of how the finished garden will look and allow you to adjust as you go.
Step 2
Dig a hole slightly deeper and at least twice as wide as the pot size. Loosen the soil
around the sides of the planting hole. For dry soils, fill the hole with water and
allow it to drain away.
Step 3
To assist in removing the plant use sharp, clean secateurs to remove any
particularly long or coiled roots protruding from the bottom of the pot. It is not
necessary to tease the root ball and it is best to avoid disturbing the roots as much
as possible.
Step 4
To remove the plant, turn the pot upside down and gently squeeze the sides of the
pot until the plant loosens. Place the plant in the hole a little lower than the rim.
Step 5
Fill the hole back in with soil, making sure that the root ball is well covered. To the
give the plant a boost, include a little native plant slow release fertiliser and water
crystals/gels. Don’t place fertiliser at base of the hole as this may encourage root
rot or fertiliser ‘burn’.
Step 6
Firmly press the backfill down with your hands, shaping a small ditch around the
plant to hold water. Place mulch around ditch 10cm deep but avoid placing it
against the stem of the plant as this may encourage collar rot.
Step 7
Thoroughly water each plant after planting to settle soil around the root system.
After this, plants may require a good deep soaking once a week for the first few
months, particularly during dry periods. Less water is needed once they mature.
Garden Maintenance
While it may depend on your garden style, with more formal hedging requiring
additional upkeep, native plants make great low maintenance gardens. With a little
work every so often your native garden can look healthy, neat, and beautiful.

9. 9
Creating a calendar or reminders for planting times, fertilising schedules and other
maintenance task will help you keep on top of them and keep your garden thriving!
Watering
Most local Gold Coast plants (aside from wetland and a few rainforest species) are
either very tolerant or prefer dry conditions. Once they are fully established very
little to no additional water is required. Only in cases of heat waves should they be
closely monitored and given a good soaking if they show signs of wilting. It should
be applied to the base of the plant for a long, deep watering.
To reduce the amount of mains water spent on gardens, a rainwater tank is always
a good idea if space allows. For large gardens dripline irrigation can also be an
efficient way to deliver water to your plants. To make it even easier, tap timers can
be installed to reduce over-watering and to maintain gardens for when you are
away.
Mulch
Good quality mulch should be spread over your garden to a minimum depth of
10cm. This can not only improve soil structure, nutrient availability, water retention
and prevent future weed growth but also provide habitat for wildlife. Mulch creates
a natural leaf litter look that insects and lizards use for shelter and foraging. For
established gardens, leaving leaf litter naturally generated by trees can help save
time and money.
It is also best to ensure that the mulch you select is made from a sustainable
resource. With chipped waste wood and green waste mulches generally being a
good option.
Remember to:
o Always ensure that any green waste has been well composted before
use, to kill any weed seeds that may be present.
o Check for and remove mulch-borne seedlings to prevent weed
invasion.
o Avoid pine bark mulch as it can burn native plants or slow their growth.
o Avoid hot, steaming mulch, as this indicates that it is still composting.
Fertiliser
Most native plants have adapted to Australia’s low nutrient soils and generally do
not require additional fertilisers. With a good layer of quality mulch being enough,
as it slowly breaks down and naturally adds nutrients to your soil. However, if your
notice plants showing signs of nutrient deficiencies, adding a small amount of
commercial slow-release fertiliser designed for native plants, will help give them a
boost back to being healthy.
INSERT IMAGES of symptoms if possible
Common signs of nutrient issues:
o Excess nitrogen symptoms:
 Rapid growth with reduced flowering and fruit formation.
 Plants appear overly green, with thin stems.
 Soft new foliage that can be attractive to pests and susceptible to
diseases.
o Excess phosphorus symptoms:
 Lack of growth.
 Apparent iron deficiency (yellowing between the veins of youngest
leaves).
 Red colours starting in oldest leaves.
 Drop of oldest leaves.
 Tip death in the worst cases.
 Susceptibility to root rot fungi such as phytophthora.
o Other deficiencies visible on leaves:
 Nitrogen — Yellowing of the older leaves, usually at the base of the
plant.

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 Phosphorus — Reddish purple and drying of tips on young leaves.
 Potassium — Edges of older leaves look scorched; yellowing
between the veins; dead spots.
 Magnesium — Mottling, yellowing parts, sometimes reddened
leaves; dead spots.
o Deficiencies on younger leaves with distorted terminal buds:
 Calcium — Young leaves become hooked, then begin to die back
from the tips and edges.
 Boron — Young leaves become pale at the base; other leaves
appear twisted.
 Zinc — Yellowing between veins; dead spots become large.
o Dead spots on young leaves:
 Manganese — Small dead spots appear in areas that have yellowed
but veins remain green.
o Pale colouring in leaves:
 Iron — New leaves become pale and, in some cases, white, but
veins remain green.
 Sulphur — New leaves, including their veins, become pale yellow,
but older leaves remain green. Veins become chlorotic.
Non-Chemical Pest and Disease Control
Prevention is key to defending your garden from pests and diseases. Keeping plants
healthy and well cared for is an important step in stopping problems before they
happen. By following some of these actions you can help minimise the use of
pesticides and herbicides, creating a healthier garden for you and your local
wildlife!
Non-chemical actions:
o Make sure plants are grown in the right conditions to keep them healthy.
o Make sure there is good ventilation between plants and don’t over water
as this encourages fungal diseases.
o Regularly check your garden for pets or emerging diseases.
o Remove pests manually by hand or with a jet of water.
o Remove and properly dispose of heavily infected plant tissue to reduce
spread.
o Attract predatory animals such as birds, lizards, frogs, ladybugs, praying
mantis and other insects will help control pest populations.
o Use well tested home remedies such as ground up eggshells to deter snails
and shallow dishes of linseed or fish oil to catch earwigs.
o Accept that by using environmentally friendly, non-chemical methods there
are going to be some plant losses or blemishes and that’s OK!
Try your best to avoid using commercial herbicides and pesticides, as they can
often leach from gardens into stormwater systems. From there they can end up
polluting waterways and harming the local plants and animals. If a pest or disease
problem gets too out of hand, make sure you thoroughly research any products
before applying them to your garden. Make them a last resort and not the first
thing to turn to!
Pruning and Hedging
- Tips on how to prune hedges
- When to prune
- What pruning does / benefits

11. HABITAT GARDENING
Your native garden can not only look fantastic and enhance your outdoor
experience but also provide food and shelter (from predators, competitors, and the
weather) for native animals. Which will in turn benefit you with pollination, seed
dispersal, pest control, waste breakdown and soil maintenance!
Here are some basic garden features to consider if you want to attract and create
safe habitat for your local wildlife. To see plants that attract certain animals see
Pages INSERT and check their uses.
o Layers
Gardens created with layers from the ground up create a variety of food sources
and habitats. Layers starting from leaf litter, ground covers, grasses, up to bushy
shrubs and finally to the canopies to tall trees create structural diversity that mimic
natural forests. Using dense or prickly shrubs will also provide native wildlife with
shelter, as well place to build their home and raise their young.
o Food
Plants that produce a variety of nectar, pollen, seeds, fruit, leaves and roots will
attract and cater to a broader range of animals. Dead plant material can also be
used as a food source, especially to insects. Which will in turn attract insect eating
animals, creating a mini, self-sustaining food web in your garden.
o Water
A fresh, reliable source of water, especially in the hotter months will attract and
keep wildlife in your garden healthy. Positioning a shallow, pedestaled bird bath
next to dense or prickly shrubs will offer birds protection from predators while
bathing or drinking. However, make sure the bird bath is not too deep and has a
platform of some kind to allow any animals that fall in to get out.
o Pets
Responsible pet ownership is one of the most important factors in preserving and
protecting our native wildlife. Supervising dogs and keeping cats inside, especially
during the night, will ensure that your efforts to attract wildlife are not undone.
For more information on building and retaining habitat for butterflies, frogs, koalas
and native bees and a detailed look at tree hollows as homes, refer to the specific
City of Gold Coast booklets. The information for these can be found on page
INSERT.
11

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Paved Lawn Exotic Native Habitat Natural
bush
Plant
Species
Very
few
plants
Mainly lawn
with a few
trees or
shrubs that
could be
native or
exotic
Predominantly
exotic plants
with some
variety of
species
Predominantly
native plants
with some
variety of
species
A variety of
local native
species that
would occur
naturally.
Full variety
of native
plants that
occur
naturally.
Plant
Community
Structure
None Very limited.
Only mown
grass and
scattered
trees or
shrubs
Limited by the
style of
garden
desired.
Limited by the
style of
garden
desired.
Some layers
but possibly
not largest
trees.
All
vegetation
layers.
Other
Habitat
Features
None None Some created
features such
as mulch,
rocksor water
depending on
the style of
garden
Some created
features such
as mulch,
rocksor water
depending on
the style of
garden
Some
features
such as
rocks, logs
and leaf
litter that
could be
natural or
created.
Wide
variety of
natural
features
such as
leaf, litter,
logs, rocks
and water.
Living with Wildlife
While there are many benefits to having native wildlife in your garden, they are still
animals and won’t always do what you want, and they may enjoy your plants a little
too much!
If you want to prevent young trees and shrubs from being eaten it may be
worthwhile protecting them with staked tree guards until they are established. The
same goes for food trees. If you want to protect fruit produced, fine mesh can be
used to cover either the whole tree or fruiting branches.
If you find any injured or sick wildlife contact INSERT INFO.
INDOOR AND BALCONY GARDENS
Native gardens are not only limited to houses with large backyards. Many native
plants can also grow wonderfully indoors or on balconies.
To find plants that can grow indoors, it is best to start with rainforest species that
have adapted to low-light conditions. From there a plants growing preferences and
abilities will need to be considered. See Pages INSERT for plants lists and check
which ones are “pot suitable”.
Maintenance:
o Use a good quality native potting mix for your potted plants – these will
drain well and contain fertiliser in the mix.
o Top up pots every 6 months.
o Apply a small amount of mulch around the top – gravel can work well for
indoor plants.
o Wipe leaves to remove dust with a moist rag. Dusty leaves cut down the
amount of light available to the plants.
o Inspect plant for mealy-bugs and scale and treat with horticultural oil.

13. 13
Watering:
o Water requirements will vary according to the light, humidity, and
temperature conditions that the plants are growing in.
o Most plants like to stay moist but not drowning, so having pots with
drainages holes are a must.
o Tip out any water sauces after watering to ensure the plant isn’t sitting in
water.
o Consider plants with a water storage system, as they will be more tolerant
of missed watering.
Location:
o It is best to choose a place that resembles the natural growing conditions of
the plant.
o Avoid hot, north-facing positions that could burn shade loving plants.
Filtered light is usually ideal.
o Be mindful of heaters, fires and air-conditioners that can dry out plants.
o If your plant isn’t thriving in one location, try another till you get the best
spot. You may also need to move plants throughout the seasons as the sun
changes direction.
For balcony gardens consider:
o Weight: pots and soils are heavy, and watering adds to this. Make sure
your balcony can support this weight.
o Space: make the most of it but remember you may still want to use the
balcony as well.
o Light/Shade: some balconies are always sunny, others only in the
morning and some vary across the balcony. Take note of this when
placing plants.
o Wind: the higher and more exposed your balcony is the windier it gets.
This is important as plants can dry out and topple over but also can blow
off the balcony in high winds.
o Neighbours: be considerate of others. Ensure the plants don’t grow into
neighbouring balconies, and when watering, it does not cascade onto
balconies below.
o Check Rules: are there body cooperate rules about what can be placed on
balconies make sure they are followed.
o Plant examples:
 Hot sunny balconies facing North/West, including near the beach
– think of growing dune species such as INSERT example species.
 Shady, cool balconies facing South/East – think of rainforest
understory species such as INSERT example species.

14. 14
NATIVE PLANT PROPAGATION
Many plants can be propagated easily using very basic tools and methods.
Seeds
Pre-treatment
o Boiling Water
o Abrasion
o Stratification
o Fire
o Smoke
http://anpsa.org.au/seed.html
Cuttings
http://anpsa.org.au/cuttings.html
Divisions
o rhizomes
o Plants that sucker
o Layeringspecies
o aerial roots
http://anpsa.org.au/division.html
Grafts
Australian Native Plants Society (Australia) - Propagation by Grafting (anpsa.org.au)
Spores
http://anpsa.org.au/APOL13/mar99-14.html#spore

15. 15
LOCAL NATIVE PLANTS TO GROW
Garden in layers, that is, leaf litter, grasses, ground covers, shrubs, and trees, to
provide a diversity of food and shelter.
Flowering of several the same species at the same time will be more noticeable and
an incentive for wildlife to visit.
These lists should be used as a guide for plant selection not an exhaustive list.
Plants may not reach their full height in pots or in smaller backyards.
o Select feature plants for each group to feature pictures of
o Add a bit of background/introduction on what the tables can be used for
o Think about how images will be incorporated with tables

16. 16
Ground Covers and Scramblers
Ground covers and scramblers are herbaceous or slightly woody plants that represent the lowest layer of vegetation in a given plant community.

17. 17
Grasses, Sedges, and Rushes
Grasses, sedges, and rushes are

18. 18
Ferns and Epiphytes
Ferns and epiphytes are

19. 19
Vines and Climbers
Vines and climbers are twining or winding plants with long, woody, or herbaceous stems that use the support of vegetation and other structures to climb towards sunlight.

20. 20
Shrubs
Shrubs are woody, perennial plants, typically with several stems arising at or near the ground.

21. Small Trees
Small trees here are woody, perennial plants typically with a single stem, bearing lateral branches some distance from the ground and growing to a height of 15m or less.
Name
H (m)
W (m)
Habit Foliage Flowers Fruits
Growing
Preferences
Propagation Uses
Sickle-leaved Wattle
Acacia falcata 2 - 5
1 - 2
Upright or spreading
branches; open foliage;
slender trunk
Narrowly elliptic; curved
phyllodes; to 15cm; grey-
green to light green
Racemes or panicles of;
spherical; pale yellow to
cream flowers; fluffy
Pods; straight to slightly
curved; to 12cm long
Full sun
Good drainage
Seed: boil or
scarification
Bee: nectar,
butterfly:
host,
E - Autumn to winter
Brisbane Wattle
Acacia fimbriata
Upright or spreading
branches; dense foliage;
Linear; straight to slightly
curved phyllodes; to 4cm
Raceme of; spherical; bright
to pale yellow flowers; fluffy
Pods; straight to slightly
curved
Full sun to part
shade
Seed Butterfly:
host,
5 - 8
E
3 - 5 short trunk long; light green - Winter to spring Minimal
Early Black Wattle
Acacia leiocalyx
subsp. leiocalyx
6 - 8
n/a
Upright or spreading
branches; dense foliage;
flaky, red brown bark
Elliptic; straight to curved
phyllodes; to 15cm long
Spikes to 10cm of; pale
yellow to yellow flowers;
perfumed
Pods; Curved, twisted, or
coiled; to 12cm long
seed
Full sun
Good drainage,
sandy
Bee: nectar,
butterfly:
host,
PC RV E - Winter to spring
Long-leavedWattle
Acacia longissima 2 - 6
Upright or spreading
branches; smooth, grey bark;
Linear; straight phyllodes; to
18cm; dark green
Spikes of; pale yellow to
white flowers
Pods; Straight to slightly
curved; to 14cm long
Full sun to full
shade
Seed: boil or
scarification
Butterfly:
host,
E WE
1 - 2 slender form - Spring to autumn Some moisture
Beach Acronychia
Acronychia
imperforata
Dense foliage; rounded form;
responds to pruning
Elliptic to obovate; glossy
green; to 6cm long
Cymes of; yellowish or
creamy-white flowers; to
9.5mm wide; 4 distinct
petals; several long stamen
Spherical to obovoid;bright
yellow to yellow-orange; to
15mm wide
Full sun to part
shade
Pot
tolerant,
bush food,
bird: fruit
6 - 10
4 - 6
EC PC RF - Summer to autumn
Glossy Acronychia
Acronychialaevis
Rounded from; dense foliage;
smooth, pale bark
Elliptic to obovate; to 9.5cm
long; above and below glossy
green; aromatic
Clusters of; creamy-white
flowers;to 7mm wide; 4
distinct petals; several long
stamen
White to purplish; Spherical;
to 14mm wide
Full sun to part
shade
Good drainage
Bush food,
6 - 12
n/a
WE RF - Summer
21

22. 22
Large Trees
Large trees woody, perennial plants typically with a single stem, bearing lateral branches some distance from the ground and growing to a height of 15m or more.

23. 23
Cycads and palms
Cycads and palms are

24. 24
Aquatic Plants
Aquaticplantsare

25. 25
GLOSSARY OF BOTANICAL TERMS
o Guide to leaf shapes
o Diagrams helpful
o https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/Leaf_mor
phology.svg
o Basal
o Phyllodes
o Fruit types
o Drupe
o Achene
o Capsule
o Pod
o Berry
o Nut
o Spores
o Fruit
o Samaras
o Fruitshapes
o Diagramshelpful
o Spherical
o Ovoid
o Ellipsoid
o Obovoid
o Oblong
o Winged
o Inflorescence types
o Diagramshelpful
o Panicles
o Cymes
o Spikes
o Raceme
o Axillary
o Terminal
o Umbels
o Heads
o Solitary
o Stalks
o Tubular
o Other
o Stipe
o Lithophyte
o Epiphytic
o Diecious
o Buttressed
o Aril

26. 26
LIST OF LOCAL NATIVE PLANT NURSERIES
FURTHER RESOURCES
City of Gold Coast Information Booklets:
Environmental Weeds and Native Alternatives
Our Nature: Butterflies
Our Nature: Frogs
Our Nature: Koalas
Our Nature: Native Bees
Our Nature: Hollows are Homes
REFERENCES
Plant list info from:
- Australia Native Plant Society www.anpsa.org.au/sgap1a.html
- Australian National Herbarium www.anbg.gov.au/gnp/index.html
- Australian Tropical Rainforest Plants Edition 7 www.canbr.gov.au/cpbr/cd-
keys/RFK7/key/RFK7/Media/Html/index_rfk.htm#
- PlantNET: NSW Flora Online
www.plantnet.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/search/simple.htm
- Wattle - Acacias of Australia
https://apps.lucidcentral.org/wattle/text/intro/index.html
- Bushfood https://tuckerbush.com.au/
Booklet info from:
- Australia Native Plant Society www.anpsa.org.au/sgap1a.html
- Green Gardening Guide (sixth edition) – Brisbane City Council
- Identifying nutritional deficiencies in backyard plants
https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/identifying-nutritional-deficiencies-backyard-
plants?page=0%2C3
- Monash Gardens for Wildlife – City of Monash
- Native Plant Propagation http://anpsa.org.au/propagat.html,
http://anpsa.org.au/APOL13/mar99-14.html#spore
- Sustainable Gardening Australia https://www.sgaonline.org.au/,
https://www.sgaonline.org.au/sustainable-garden-design/