Presentation on Plain Weave and some Elementary terms of Textilel Design Plain weave Interlacing

1. Present by Mahbubay Rabbani Mim
DHAKA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING
AND TECHNOLOGY,GAZIPUR
Course Name:-Fabric Structure and Design
Submitted to-
Shamsuzzaman Sheikh,
Assistant Professor,
Department of Textile Engineering,DUET

2. Fabric Structure and Design
Fabric
A Fabric is defined as the structure made out of interlacement of Warp and Weft Yarns.
Structure
It is defined as the order of interlacement of Warp and Weft.
Design
It is defined as a plan which gives the appearance of the structure.
Weave
It is defined as the order of interlacement of fabric,
for example, 1/1 (1 up, 1 down) which indicates that every thread goes once up and once
down
i.e., there are two intersections one in warp and one in the weft.

3. Classification
Woven fabric is classified based on the structure:-
Simple structure
Compound structure
Simple structure
The ends and picks are interlaced with one another at right angle. Threads of each group are respectively
parallel to each other. Only one series of ends and picks are used in the construction.
Compound structure
More than one series of ends and picks are used in the structure. Some threads may be not found in the
parallel formation one to another
Identification of warp and weft yarn in a woven fabric:
• Warp count is better than weft count.
• Warp yarn is more twisted than weft yarn
• Yarn which contains size particles is warp yarn.
• Normally stripe effect is done in warp direction (both woven and printed fabric).
• Warp yarns are relatively hairy yarn.
• Warp crimp is expected to be less than weft crimp due to high warp tension on the loom.
• The selvedge direction is warp.

4. Graphical Reprentation of a Design
Warps are in vertical direction and Wefts are in horizontal direction in a
point paper.
A complete design consists of:-
 Base design
 Main design
 Drafting Plan
 Lifting Plan
Base design:-The main design is produced depending on it.
Main design:- It is the big one of the base design.
Drafting Plan:- It indicates the drawing the warp yarn through the eye of
heald frames according to design.
Lifting Plan:- It indicates the selection of heald frames to be raised or
dropped on each sequential supplement of weft yarn.

5. Drafting Systems
8 following types:-
• Straight draft → Used in twill design.
• Skip draft → Used in weaving very densely fabric.
• Broken draft → Used to produce herringbone twills, diaper design and etc.
• Group draft → Used for producing check and stripe fabric.
• Pointed draft /V- draft →Used to produce fabric with symmetrical design e.g. jig-jag twill, diamond.
• Curved draft → Used to produce decorated weave with large repeat unit.
• Divided draft →Used to derived weaves, double warp weaves, two ply weaves, pile weaves etc.
• Combined draft → Used to produce some special type of fabrics different type of drafts are required
to be mixed
.
Straight
draft
Pointed
draft
Skip draft Broken draft Combined draft

6. Some Terminology
Contact fields:-These are the contact points between warp and
weft crossing at right angle. The number of contact fields
always equals the product of the number of warp and weft
threads.
contact fields= 𝑅𝑁𝑤𝑎 × 𝑅𝑛𝑤𝑒
= 3×3
= 9
Interlacing field:-These are the points where a yarn of one
system of threads changes its position in relation to the other
system.
Interlacing ratio:-The interlacing ratio of a fabric is the ratio
between the actual number of interlacing fields and the
maximum number of interlacing fields. The degree of
interlacing is the interlacing ratio expressed in percentage.
Texture:-A term referring to the appearance or hand of a fabric
and especially such features as structure coarseness, openness.
This signifies the general quality of a fabric, developed by the
interlacement of yarn used weight, bulk, how it feels when
handled etc. are also express by the term texture Materials,
count of the yarns relative density of threads are its main
factors.

7. Plain Weave
The simplest and most common weave. Threads interlacing in alternate order. Both sides of the weave are
identical. Texture is firmer than any other ordinary cloth. It is the most produced woven fabrics. Two heald
shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave.
Derivatives of plain weave

8. Warp Rib and Weft Rib
Warp Rib Weft Rib
Two or more weft yarns are passed over or under a
warp yarn.
Two or more warp yarn is passed over or under a
weft.
It produces rib or cord effect in the weft direction. It produces rib or cord effect in the warp direction.
The number of ends are more than the number of
picks in the unit space.
The number of picks is more than the number of
ends in unit space.
Warp yarn single yarn and weft yarn bundle yarn. Weft yarn single yarn and warp yarn bundle yarn.
Warp
Rib(Regular)
Weft Rib
(Regular)
Warp Rib
(Irregular)
Weft Rib
(Irregular)

9. Rib and Matt
Rib weave Matt weave
It produce rib or cord effect. It is the combination of warp and weft rib.
Repeat size may not be square Repeat size may be squared.
Tight structure Loose structure.
Rib fabric are less flexible and wrinkle resistant
than matt.
Matt fabric are more flexible and wrinkle resistant.

10. Stitch Matt , Fancy Matt and other Matt Weaves
Stitch matt
Fancy Matt
Stitch Matt:- This matt design is used to avoid the looseness of yarn in the
fabric. Here stitch is used in the center in the weave.
Fancy Matt:-It is produced by combining maat ,warp and weft ribs.Here
stitch is used randomly in the weave.
Regular Matt:-In that design the square boxes is produced and that‘s why
form the equal spaces in the cloth.
Irregular Matt:-In that case the boxes are not equal and that‘s why form the
unequal spaces in the cloth
Regular Matt Irregular Matt

11. Behave against the load and End Uses
The warp and weft thread cross at right angles, aligned so they form simple cross section pattern. Threads
interlacing in alternate order. Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent threads. The
interlacing points are more in plain weave than any other design. So, it is said that plain weave shows more
compactness and resistance against extended load.
Plain weave ornamentation
i. The thread in both warp and weft vary in color, raw material
types of construction and in thickness.
ii. Threads of different colors are combined in check form.
iii. By using fancy slob yarns.
iv. By combining different orders of denting.
v. By using different twisted yarns such hard twisted weft produce crepon effect etc.
End Uses:-
Canvas
Muslin
Blanket
Cambric
Shari
Shirting etc.

12. Thank You!