Sustainability: Ecology & Economy // Snapshot Series
materials:selfridges
1. Cassandra Stephens/ Gerda Ivanauskaite/
Natalya Courtney Johnson/ Nelson Tseng/ Zach Hopkins
M A T E R I A L S
V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
2.
3. S U P R I S E D / A M A Z E D / A M U S E D
“Excite the mind, and the hand will reach for the pocket.”
“Selfridges are pioneers in the fast-changing retail
landscape, using technology to enhance shopping
experiences and engage our customers in new and exciting
ways.”
“Selfridges aims to respect the environment, drive positive
change, sell products responsibly and also to inspire
people.”
“We are inspired by our customers and the world around us,
which is why we are constantly evolving, innovating and
refining what we do.”
5. TREND SYNOPSIS
KEY DRIVERS01 / PRODUCT WASTE
KEY DRIVERS02 / EDUCATION
KEY DRIVERS03 / INTERACTIVE TECH
CROSS SECTOR ANALYSIS
CONSUMER TRIBES
RETAIL STRATEGIES
ART DIRECTION
MATERIAL DIRECTION
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6. TREND
-
SYNOPSIS
The modern day consumer takes pride in knowing that the brands they buy have
a positive impact on todays environment. The main focus on this trend is to
educate people on the drastic changes that our planet is going through,whether it
bethroughwordofmouth,technologyorprint.Globalwarmingisuponusandmore
brands&companiesneedtotakepartinthebettermentofourenvironmentinorder
tomakeadifference.Consumersneedtobeeducatedonthechangesinourclimate
and educated on brands that either have a negative or positive impact on the world
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7. 1.Consumers are now looking for purpose, and assessing your brand’s
long-term contribution to society and the planet.
2. Waste is now a resource and opportunity. Find ways to convert cast-off
materials intoenergy, materials for high-end garments, or materials to be used
in building spaces.
3. Synthetic tweaking is the future. Sell products and promote campaigns that
shift the GM debate away from benefits to business, and toward benefits to
consumers.
4.Leave a lasting legacy. Make education the focus of your corporate social
responsibility and help address matters to society and the environment.
5.Be an educator. Knowledge-hungry consumers are increasingly searching for
experiences that educate as well as entertain them.
“G-Star RAW has created garments using textiles woven in part from
recovered ocean plastic, which threatens the health of the planet’s oceans.
Demand for the products creates a further incentive to clean up eco-systems”
W H A T T H I S M E A N S F O R
O U R B R A N D
:
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9. INTRODUCTION
:
As people are in the world where everything is quick and easy, it is so easy to
discard products that can still be used just to get the next ‘best thing’. The
average person generates 4.3 pounds of waste per day. This is 1.6 pounds more
than most produced back in 1960.Wastage is becoming a constant issue among
the world,landfills are full of waste and rubbish,causing visual and environmental
pollution.Approximately 55% of 220 million tons of waste generated each year in
the United States ends up in one of the over 3,500 landfills. Municipal solid waste
landfillsarethesecond-largestsourceofhuman-relatedmethaneemissionsinthe
UnitedStates,accountingforapproximately22percentoftheseemissionsin2008.
Since the consumers are becoming more environmentally aware. For the
future of retailers, they will have to demonstrate the transparency of the
process, and think of the end use of products. Retails will have to take the
responsibility to inform customers the process of producing from the
start to the end, and further more to ensure the products cause zero waste
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11. I M P A C T
The new ideal of reducing waste influences impact and transform the
thinking of whole system. It changes the process of demand and supply. Before
the zero waste idea was introduced, companies produce products first and sell
it to the customers, then created the demand of the market. But now, the ideal
of reducing waste forced to opposite the demand and supply process. As the
zero waste ideal is rising, the supply are now based on demands, companies
make products based on customers’ wants, and needs. This allows reducing
unnecessary supplies, and to reduce waste.
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12. C O N S E Q U E N C E
”There is no longer a stigma in buying value for money clothing as seen with the
growth of Primark, this has translated into removing the stigma of buying what
was once known as second hand - now re-branded into the term ‘vintage’”. said
by Maria Malone, the principal lecturer in fashion business at the Manchester
Fashion Institute. This year, the 48th Vintage Kilo events, came out with a new
offer inspired by the trends of re-cycling. The even this year allows customers
from Kilo shop not only to buy vintage and second handed appeals, but also get
to re-model or re-work clothes by adding embroidery, patches and other
additions. According to this situation, the market reduces waste by offer
consumers to purchase second-hand items, and make them into unique
personal products.
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13. The method of consuming lesser from the nature makes designers started to
develop new method to create their designs. Kristel Peters, a Berlin based
shoe designer, made shoes out of a fungus called Mycelium.The shoes
can be grown in the desire shape and are totally biodegradable. Another
Barcelona based fashion designer, Martin Across, designed his collection
inspired by nature. He uses raw materials like rigid body tissues; felt, wool
and neoprene to create the collections. Harmony Paris, a high-end French
fashion brand produces its ready-to-wear collections using the method
of mono materiality and by only using natural fabrics. More designers are
taking the responsibility to contribute sustainability to the environment
by making the procession of their design more recyclable and eco friendly.
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14. F U T U R E
“Growth without rapacious consumption of resources. Finding and realising new
valueinexisting,alreadyusedmaterials.Keepingmaterialsandtheirmoleculesinplay.”
“It is about fundamental systems change. We are not talking about taking
what we have and making it more efficient, it’s about opportunity!” said Dame
Ellen MacArthur, who launched the circular economy movement. According to this
status, the future of the zero waste idea will transform into a perfect whole circular
economy system, where the cost materials and waste of producing would be zero.
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17. INTRODUCTION
:
“The run of record-setting months means 15 of the most abnormally warm
months have occurred since March 2015. There has never been a run of hot
months like this in the 1,641 months (136+ years) of data at the NOAA’s
disposal.The global average temperature is the clearest indicator of climate
change and each month on record is a testament to what’s happening to the
planet because of human carbon pollution. With all the record-warm months,
it’s no surprise that NOAA still projects 2016 will be the hottest year in at least
137 years.In NASA’s dataset, August marks the 11th record-setting month in
a row. That streak goes back 15 months through July in data from the NOAA.
Each agency handles the global temperature data slightly differently and uses
a different period of comparison, leading to slight differences in the month-
ly and yearly temperature numbers. Overall, though, both datasets show clear
agreement in the overall warming trend.That trend is what Gavin Schmidt,
director of NASA’s Goddard Institute for Space Studies, and other climate
scientists emphasise. It is that excess heat that has accumulated over dec-
ades thanks to rising levels of greenhouse gases that accounts for the bulk of
this year’s record warmth, with El Niño providing only a small boost.“Monthly
rankings, which vary by only a few hundredths of a degree, are inherently
fragile,” Schmidt said in a statement. “We stress that the long-term trends are
the most important for understanding the ongoing changes that are affecting
our planet”
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19. More brands are assigning economic value to aspects of the natural world that
formerly were not quantified. Puma has implemented an environmental profit
and loss system in which the company assigns monetary value to natural
assets such as clean air, fresh water and productive land. This enables the
company to gauge whether its activities ultimately benefit the environment.
The store will no longer be connected to the grid for day-to-day power needs.
Livin Studio’s project Fungi Mutarium imagines technology that enables edible
fungi to be grown on discarded plastic. The project imagines a future in which
plastic waste could be converted back into organic matter, blurring the lines
between the natural and the synthetic.
I M P A C T
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20. Brands and designers are looking at waste as a source of energy and nutrition.
In July 2014, Sainsbury’s worked with waste management firm Biffa to convert
food waste into electricity using anaerobic digestion at its store in Cannock,
near Birmingham.
C O N S E Q U E N C E
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22. The store will no longer be connected to the grid for day-to-day power needs.
Livin Studio’s project Fungi Mutarium imagines technology that enables edible
fungi to be grown on discarded plastic. The project imagines a future in which
plastic waste could be converted back into organic matter, blurring the lines
between the natural and the synthetic.
F U T U R E
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25. INTRODUCTION
:
The relationship between humans and technology is highly related. The use of
technology has become so vital in our lives. Consumers expect to be able to use
technology in alomst every perspective.This situation has transform the retailers
to ensure they are using technology to create convinence and omni experience.
A statistic from Forrester Research, predicts that in 2017, 3.5 billion people half
of the globe’s population are going to adapt the usage of internet regularly. This
means that brands need to adopt ways within the store where consumers can
use their devices and interact with the store. This may be through social media
that they can access through the store or interactive screens where they can
watch videos. Furthermore, the usage of virtual reality is also becoming more
apparent has been used in runways and museums. An example of this that
Dior has adapted this technology and use it to provide experience for people
who want to enter the backstage of its fashion show through Dior VR headset.
BritishMuseumhasalsoappliedtheusageofVRinsomeofitsexhibitions.Through
its cooperation with Samsung,the Birth Museum operate a Digital Discover Centre,
whichallowspeopletoseeits3DscannedcollectionsthroughSamsungVRheadsets.
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27. I M P A C T
Consumers will become more active on social platforms that enable them
to share visuals such as images and videos. Retailers are developing a new
style of consumer experiences by applying smart devices in store. This
is a new way of shopping which allows the consumers to preview products
through technological devices. The “Memory Mirror” is a new in-store smart
mirror, which memorises and provides the consumers with the opportunity of
viewing every product that they have tried on in a video format. Also the new
phone application “Snap. Find. Shop” is a new kind of search engine, which
functions by matching the snap shot in order to find out the product in the image.
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28. C O N S E Q U E N C E
The increase of new forms of technology means that people are more
vulnerable to ‘new forms of crime and manipulation’ stated by LSN on their
hyper-reality (2016) article. This is due to a rising concern of hacking into
individuals personal data such as banking accounts and passwords. Wearable
devices are becoming more personal to consumers and integrating themselves
into their lives. Physical and virtual realities are completely intertwined an
example being the Apple watch.
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30. F U T U R E
There will be a lack of staff within the store due to technology being able
to do the same job, so staff are needed less. This reflects back to the
impacts of memory mirror and also the app that can be used within store.
Wearable technology will also become a vital part in consumers lives.
They will want to be able to interact with these types of products whilst
doing normal tasks like shopping. This demonstrates a merge
between human biology and technology. Because technology is becoming
personal to the consumer in store, it is becoming a part of who they are.
Today, smart prosthetics have been transformed from health supporting
equipment into fashionable and socially accepted equipment.People have started
toviewindividualswithprostheticnotashavingphysicaldisabilitiesbutrelatethem
to futuristic, fashion icons. For example, Rebekah Marine a model who has bionic
arm appeared on the New York Fashion Week in 2015. She presented her i-limbs
not as a disadvantage but under the headlights of the fashion runway. ‘In a world
now with mobile VR and AR in which we all can become the creators and content,
the boundaries will become more and more blurred,’ says James Edward Marks.
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34. CONSUMER TRIBE 01
MILLENNIALS
“WE
WANT IT
NOW”
Millennials are part of a ‘we want it now’ generation which has lead to a surge
in on demand services including Netflix, Uber and Deliveroo.
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35. Millennials make up a huge proportion of society. They are born between 1980 and 2000, which
means that they were born in a time where there were significant changes to their lifestyle. For
example new technological innovations and economic turmoil. As a consequence they would expect
different things compared to the previous generations.
Millennials are a social generation who often broadcast their lifestyles on a range of social media
platforms including Facebook and twitter. By doing this, these consumers gain instant gratification
due to likes, shares and comments. This could be due to the fact they grew up in a digital world. In
terms of retail these consumers receive instant gratification by experiencing the product first hand
in store.
52% of these consumers enjoy concepts like e-vouchers, secret sales and click and collect. They
are also less likely to purchase a product on their phones if it is more than $100, meaning bigger
purchases are made in store. This is so they can truly experience the product.
Millennials are three times more likely to buy their products from brands who are concerned with
ethics and sustainability rather than purchasing with luxury brands. This means they are concerned
with their impact in the world and want to make positive changes for the future as they will want to
raise their offspring in a better world. Millennials prefer stores to offer them an experience rather
than it just being a place where they buy their goods.They will use technology to look at price
comparisons and reviews when buying a product.
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37. This tribe is called ‘‘the teenage crowd’’ who are aged 16-26 they love technology and eating healthy
as they are also known for being the ‘‘generation salad’’.
The generation is very digital as they have different types of technologies that they use on a
daily basis. They also use mobiles to stay in touch with their friends by using social media such as
snapchat and WhatsApp according to Sparks& Honey.This generation is very competitive and wants
more in life. They are all about travelling and having an impact on the world (change the world).
They expect stores to be optimistic, funky, upbeat and full of energy. Generation D ‘‘seek
experiential spaces that feel more like homes-from- home, dens or clubs, rather than anonymous
boxes’’ stated by Retail consultancy Fitch.They are all about being unique and independent as they
prefer working on their own rather than collaborating.As mentioned before generation D are also
known as Generation salad because of their love for greens and healthy snacks that are good for you.
According to NPD research they have said that there will be ‘‘an 11% rise in fresh food
consumption over the next five years. The typical target market of Selfridges is consumers aged
18-35, this fits in generation D.
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39. Generation i are a tribe of ‘click, press and delete’ They are born after 2002 making them the
youngest tribe yet the most advanced tribe in terms of understanding technology from an early age.
They are digital intuitive and their brains work interactively ,Using their phones, tablets, laptops and
any other type of interactive screen is apart of their life and apart of who they are, Social media is
also a massive part of their lives with Instagram, facebook and twitter being there platforms of self
worth.
They are also known as the ‘influences’ and will influence their parents or the older generation such
as generation X, on what to buy as they are deemed the most knowledgeable on the latest gadget or
luxury such as a car or a phone.
They are ‘cyber space’ shoppers showing 78% of female teenagers shop online and 82% of male
teenagers shop online.
They are used to supply and demand quickly and will become impatient or intolerant to things that
are not done straight away.
They like play as well as purchase and become engaged with a purchase that allows you to play
interactively or physically.
What is unique about this tribe is that they are not gender specific, it is a tribe that combines boys
and girls and any colour or toy is not gender specific.
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40. RETAIL STRATEGIES
SUMMARY
The in-store space will be in an exhibition format, which will allow consumers not
onlytoshopbuttobeeducatedandtobepartofthesustainablejourney.Thein-store
space will be divided into four parts,which will be the entrance, click and show,
designercollectionspace,andpaypoint.Bywalkingfromtheentrance spacetothe
pay point, consumers will experience, interact, and be part of the Material World.
The first part will be the entrance space. The space aim to provide a learn,
feel, and scan experience to the consumers. Moving on to second space, there
is going be an interactive technology journey, showing consumers to the
transparency of Selfridges and introduce garments and designers. The third
part of the space would be a selling point, which will be selling sustainable
fashion collections. The last part of this visual journey would be the pay point.
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44. RETAIL STRATEGIES
WINDOW
The Window will be holding the theme of up cycling. In the middle of
the window there will be a huge ball shape lighting made by plastic
bottles, and recyclable materials. At the back of the rounded light, there
will be an digital screen showing the videos of the key drivers. At two
sides of the window, will be demonstrating collection of Martin Across.
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46. RETAIL STRATEGIES
ENTRANCE
Learn, Feel, and scan will be the purposes of the entrance space. There will
be information about materials provided to consumers when they enter the
space. At the back of the window, there is going to be a projected screen with
introducing innovative eco- materials. Through the screen consumers will
learn about new sustainable materials and feel the atmosphere of the trend. By
walking further into the space, there will be six open fixtures demonstrating
sustainable materials, which allow consumers to touch and feel the textures.
Surrounded by the six open fixtures there is also going to be a large light box
with QR code in the middle. By scanning the QR code the consumers will
received more information and details about the demonstrated materials.
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48. RETAIL STRATEGIES
The space CLICK and Show will be a rounded interactive digital space. The aim
of this space is to provide an unique futuristic shopping experience and show
the transparency of the designers.
There will be screens demonstrating different materials in the space. Once the
consumer clicks the material, the screen will show the consumer the garments
and designers that uses the material. This strategy allows the consumer to see
the transparency of Selfridges, and further more to introduce collections in the
next space, the Designer Collection Space.
CLICK and SHOW
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50. RETAIL STRATEGIES
DESIGNERS
COLLECTION
The designer collection space will be mainly a selling point. It is aim to
continue the experience journey by introducing and selling sustainable
fashion designs. It will be a space that continues the sustainable experience from
previous spaces and will be selling limited edition and collections of those
innovative and sustainable designers, such as Christian Raeburn,
Harmony Paris.There are also going to have glass boxes demonstrating innovative
designs such as the fungus shoe by Krystal Peters, and magnate cloud.
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52. RETAIL STRATEGIES
PAY POINT
The pay point will be the end of this visual journey. This point’s aim is to
inform the customer what this shopping experience mean to the environment.
At the back of the pay desk, there will be a digital screen playing Paris ice
melting video. The purpose is to educate and to inform the customers the
contribution they made by purchasing sustainable fashion.
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54. RETAIL STRATEGIES
PERFECT IMPERFECTION is a concept of using different parts of different
mannequins to recreate unique perfect personalise mannequins. This concept is
inspired by the ideal of rebirth, all the mannequins will be a remix of diffrent old
matters to create new stuffs.
MANNEQUINS:
PERFECT
IMPERFECTION
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56. ART
DIRECTIONS
“The artist Vilde J. Rolfsen, produced landscapes in the colours of dawn
represented using plastic bags. The series “Plastic bag landscapes” seems
to represent real landscapes. The artist plays with the form of plastic bags,
wrinkles, and lights for a lifelike effect.”
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57. Moira Bateman is a contemporary visual artist living in Minneapolis. Her work
draws on an interest in a wildness present in both nature and ourselves.
River water and prairie burn ash stained silk, pigment, beeswax and stitching.
The Momenta Animale dresses are made with linen, steam dyed with onion skin,
nuno-felted with raw Navajo Churro wool, and hung on weathered wood and
metal yokes.
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58. DESIGN
DIRECTIONS
:
NATURAL MATERIALS
Martin Across, a Barcelona based fashion designer. He designs his collections
inspired by nature, and uses raw materials like rigid body tissues, felts wool and
neoprene.
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59. Dana Cohen a designer had this idea of ‘Worn again’.The worn again collection
made from up-cycled textiles, Shows us a new way of inventing garments with
out anymore waste, time or money and showing that something of beauty can
be created from something discarded.Her collection features brightly coloured
knitted garments inspired by a Jackson Pollock painting, she decided that each
colour combination would reference one of his paintings.
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62. INNOVATIVE
DIRECTIONS
:
BIO MATERIALS
Wiktoria Szawiel, an interior designer, who designs interiors and furnitures
using natural and recyclable materials and methods. She investigated new and
eco ways to produce her works, by using fuses wood and rattan within milky
clear resin, freezing the items into solid shapes of her interiors.
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63. Kristel Peters, who made shoes out of a fungus called Mycelium. The shoes can
be grown in the desire shape and are totally biodegradable.
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65. Coffee ground, the residual product that remains
from every cup of coffee, which is a new most
popular sustainable material that has been used in
these years.
Mycelium Mycelium,is a natural, self-assembling
glue, digesting crop waste to produce
cost-competitive and environmentally
responsible materials that perform.
Bioplastics are made from natural materials such
as corn starch. It has been made from traditional
petrochemicals, which are designed to break down
more quickly. Eco/recycled plastics, which are
simply plastics made from recycled plastic
materials rather than raw petrochemicals.
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67. Coconut fibres are extracted from the shell of the
coconut and are highly resistant to tearing and
scrubbing. Particularly notable are the very good
heat-insulating properties, given the many air
pockets they contain. Coconut fibre panels can also
be used for noise insulation and for protection from
microwaves.
Bio-Luminum tiles are made of 100% recycled air-
craft aluminium and are thus a sustainable design
solution which closes yet another loop.
EcoX,is concrete material comes from the USA
and consists of 75% recycled glass. It creates an
extraordinary appearance of the material, which is
available in sheets, lends itself particularly to use
in furniture, dividing walls, shop fittings, and even
sculptural objects.
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