Final Report

1. Joinery ,Fitting And Finishing

2. Joinery & its details
• Joinery is a part of woodworking that involves joining
together pieces of wood, to create furniture, structures,
toys, and other items. Some wood joints employ
fasteners, bindings, or adhesives, while others use only
wood elements. The characteristics of wooden joints -
strength, flexibility, toughness, etc. - derive from the
properties of the joining materials and from how they are
used in the joints. Therefore, different joinery techniques
are used to meet differing requirements. For example, the
joinery used to build a house is different from that used to
make puzzle toys, although some concepts overlap.

3. Different kind of Wooden Joints
• 1. BUTT JOINT :The Butt Joint is an easy woodworking joint. It joins two pieces
of wood by merely butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest joint to
make. It is also the weakest wood joint unless you use some form of reinforcement.
It depends upon glue alone to hold it together.
• 2. BISCUIT JOINT:A biscuit joint is nothing more than a reinforced Butt joint. The
biscuit is an oval-shaped piece. Typically, a biscuit is made of dried and
compressed wood, such as beech. You install it in matching mortises in both pieces
of the wood joint. Most people use a biscuit joiner to make the mortises.
• 3. BRIDLE JOINT :A bridle joint is a woodworking joint, similar to a mortise and
tenon. You cut a tenon on the end of one piece and a mortise into the other piece to
accept it. You cut the tenon and the mortise to the full width of the tenon piece.
This is the distinguishing feature of this joint.

4. • 4. DADO (JOINERY) :A dado is a slot cut into the surface of a piece of wood.
When viewed in cross-section, a dado has three sides. You cut a dado perpendicular
to the grain. It is different from a groove, which you cut parallel to the grain.
• 5. MORTISE AND TENON WOODWORKING JOINTS :One of the strongest
woodworking joints is the mortise and tenon joint. This joint is simple and strong.
Woodworkers have used it for many years. Normally you use it to join two pieces
of wood at 90-degrees.
• 6. FINGER JOINT :A finger joint or box joint is one of the popular woodworking
joints. You use it to join two pieces of wood at right angles to each other. It is much
like a dovetail joint except that the pins are square and not angled.

5. • 7. LAP WOOD JOINT: A half lap joint is one of the frequently used woodworking
joints. In a half lap joint, you remove material from each piece so that the resulting
joint is the thickness of the thickest piece.
• 8.. POCKET-HOLE JOINERY: ONE of the more popular woodworking joints is
the Pocket-Hole Joint. It is nothing more than a Butt joint with Pocket Hole
Screws. The pocket holes require two drilling operations. The first is to counter
bore the pocket hole itself, which takes the screw head contained by the piece. The
second step is to drill a pilot hole whose centreline is the same as the pocket hole.
• 9. DOVETAIL WOOD JOINT :The dovetail joint, or simply dovetail, is a strong
woodworking joint. It is great for tensile strength (resistance from pulling apart).
You use the dovetail joint to connect the sides of a drawer to the front.

6. • 10. RABBET WOODWORKING JOINTS :A rabbet is a recess cut into the edge of
a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a rabbet is two-sided and open to
the end of the surface. An example of the use of a rabbet is in the back edge of a
cabinet.
• 11. TONGUE AND GROOVE WOODWORKING JOINTS :One of the more
popular woodworking joints is the edge-to-edge joint, called tongue and groove.
One piece has a slot (groove) cut all along one edge. The other piece has a tongue
cut on the mating edge.

7. Basic Woodworking Tools
• Power jointer and thickness planer
• Circular saw
• Hand saws, a router and two router bits.
• Jigsaw
• Combination square and tape measure
• A power drill or two
• Rasps, files, a random-orbit sander, a smoothing plane and a block plane.
• Joinery gadgets
• Chisels and a wooden mallet.
• A hammer and some screwdrivers.
• A Workmate, a puttering bench and clamps.

8. Wood Spiral Hanger Stand
• Spiral assembly consists of hundreds of joints. Many of these joints are
small and relatively delicate. Many of the joints in a spiral staircase are
doweled or use mortise and tenon joints, which are nothing more than one
small piece of wood penetrating into a corresponding piece of wood. You
can't take them apart; the assembly is too complicated. But you can
reinforce them.
• Preferably used joint in case of Wooden Spiral Hanger :
 DOVETAIL WOOD JOINT
MORTISE AND TENON WOODWORKING JOINTS

9. Construction Details :
• Tighten all the bolts you can find. Depending on the design, there will be a series of 1/2-inch bolts
securing individual brackets at the bottom and at the top where individual balusters are fastened to the
stairs and underneath the handrail. They will be in pairs. Use a 1/2-inch socket and ratchet to tighten
each bolt up and down the staircase until all of the brackets are tight.
• 2
• Insert a 1/4-inch drill bit into a drill/driver. Place your hands on the staircase handrail. Wiggle it from
side to side. Identify joints where you can see movement. Drill diagonally upward or downward through
the joint at a 30-degree angle. Ensure the bit penetrates through both components of the joint. Visualize
where the dowel or tenon penetrates into the joint and angle the bit to penetrate through it. If you're not
sure if the joint is loose, drill through it anyway. It's OK to do all the joints if you want.
• 3
• Inject glue into the holes, using the tip of the glue bottle. Tap a dowel into the hole with a hammer so that
it emerges out the other side of the hole. Place a clamp on the joint to add pressure to it, if possible. If you
have limited clamps, do as many as you can. Leave the clamps on for one hour, then take them off and do
another section. Wait 24 hours after you place the last clamp.
• 4
• Remove all the clamps. Trim the ends off of each dowel, using a coping saw. Trim them flush with the
joint. If you can't get the saw into a tight space, use a chisel to cut the end off of the dowel.
• 5
• File off the cut ends of the dowels, using a fine-tooth file. Ensure to file them flush and smooth. Try to
refrain from scratching or gouging the handrail, but if you do damage it slightly, use a piece of 100-grit
sandpaper to smooth any scratches on the staircase.
• 6
• Color the repaired joints with a color-matched stain marker. Color the ends of the dowels and any sanded
places to finish.

10. •
Design Steps :

13. Techniques for Oak Finishes
Proper sanding
• I sand oak to 220 grit. Although lots of people stop at 180 grit, I find going
one more step really polishes the dense latewood and enhances its contrast
with the coarse early wood.
Scuff-sand carefully
• Scuff-sand with 280- or 320-grit paper between coats of shellac and
varnish. A light touch is all that’s needed. Care must be taken not to sand
through one layer of finish into the next.
Create a ground colour with dye
• Many great oak finishes begin with a “ground colour” dye, typically a
yellow or reddish brown. The ground color establishes the finish’s
predominate undertone. Apply the dye liberally to bare wood with a brush
or spray bottle. Blot up any excess with a clean rag..
Add a barrier coat of shellac
• Shellac sealer brings the dyed oak to life. At the same time, it creates a
barrier that prevents dyes or stains from bleeding into the next layer of
finish. The barrier coat also creates distinct, well-defined layers that really
add depth and beauty. Shellac is also used as a barrier coat between a
colored glaze layer and the final topcoat.It should say something like
“universal sanding sealer” and “100-percent wax-free formula.”

14. Glaze deepens the grain contrast
• A glaze layer is the secret ingredient to a great oak finish. A dark glaze
emphasizes oak’s beautiful strong grain. Glaze is nothing more than a thick
stain applied over a sealed surface..
Top coating protects the color
• A protective topcoat adds depth and durability. Typical topcoats are oil-
based or water-based varnish or lacquer. They protect the finish you’ve
laboured so diligently to create, as well as the wood beneath it. Dewaxed
shellac is the perfect sealer because it’s compatible with any topcoat you
choose.

15. Four proven finishes for oak
• A good finish should highlight the best characteristics of the wood it goes on. I’ve put
together four finish recipes that make the most of oak’s contrasting grain. The first
three recipes use two different color layers, each separated by a seal coat of shellac.
Light penetrates and reflects back through the layers, giving these finishes stunning
depth and beauty. The fourth is a simple, out-of-the-can recipe that produces a
surprisingly good-looking finish.
• Mission oak
This finish is designed specifically for quarter sawn white oak. Sanding the dye coat ever so
lightly really enhances the ray flecks.
1. Apply a 50-50 mix of Trans Tint Dark Mission brown and medium brown dye tothe bare wood
and let it dry.
2. Very lightly scuff-sand the dyed wood with 320-grit paper.
3. Seal the dye with a barrier coat of wax-free shellac.
4. Scuff-sand.
5. Glaze with Varathane dark walnut gel stain.
6. Seal with wax-free shellac and scuff-sand when dry.
7. Apply a topcoat of your choice.

16. Golden oak
• This is a classic oak finish familiar to any antique lover. The glaze layer darkens the
open-pored early wood and contrasts beautifully with the brownish-gold latewood.
This finish looks best on red oak.
1. Trans Tint honey amber dye to the bare wood and
let it dry.
2. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry.
3. Glaze with Varathane dark walnut gel stain.
4. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry.
5. Apply a topcoat of your choice.
Deep, dark, red oak
• This finish looks great on plain sawn red oak boards and is impossible to get
straight out of a can. The red dye is incredibly strong. But the gel stain is applied
without a barrier coat so it darkens both the early wood and latewood.
1. Apply Trans Tint bright scarlet to the bare wood and let it dry.
2. Apply Minwax jet black mahogany gel stain.
3. Seal with wax-free shellac and scuff-sand when dry.
4. Apply a topcoat of your choice.
.

17. Simple, but nice, oak finish
• This finish is as easy as it gets. Its results are not as spectacular as those of
the other three recipes. But it makes up for its plainer look with ease of
application.
• 1. Apply two coats of Rocker's Mission Oak Wipe-On gel stain.
• 2. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry.
• 3. Apply a topcoat of your choice.

18. Material Estimation ,Costing and Valuation
• Skpm Timber (Suppliers)
• Contact Person: Sanjeev Mohan
• D-65, First Floor, Shubham Enclave, Paschim Vihar
• New Delhi - 110063, Delhi, India
• +91-8048025213
• https://www.indiamart.com/skpmtimber/

19. • Founded in 1983, we, SKPM Timber, are the leading Wholesaler, Supplier
and Importer of Wood Chip Boards, Maple Wood, White Oak Wood,
Basralocus ,Lumber Wood, Cherry Walnut Wood, White Ash Lumber,
Steam Beach Wood, Merbau Wood, IPE Wood, Teak Wood, Red Oak.
These are highly used in the market owing to their smooth surface, termite
resistance, sturdiness, durability, long life and unmatched quality. Experts
develop this range in a compliance of most modern trends with customer
requirements.
• Other product

20. • Features: Oak Wood
• Excellent finish
• Durable
• High tensile strength
• Rs 1,400Cubic Feet(s)
• Features: White Oak Wood
• Termite resistance
• Unmatched quality
• Low prices
• Rs 1,300Cubic Feet(s)

21. Prototype Product

22. Actual Product dimensions
6’5’6’’
6’’
8’’
4’’
8’’