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H2 2019
THEBLACKBOX_H22019
8+1TRENDSSHAPINGFASHION&INNOVATION
October 2019_The Black Box #2
TOTHEBLACKBOX_
WELCOME
WELCOME
Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion
The Black Box serves as a vessel to help individuals, startups and
companies interested in the Fashion Innovation landscape, to better
navigate this complex yet fascinating era of tremendous changes.
As the movement has been gaining steam, the need remains to
underline that the key shake-ups unlocking the possible futures of
fashion and technology nowadays go way beyond game changing
products and business models. As shown in this prospective trends
report, to foster a brighter and more sustainable future, industries
now need to undertake major transformation that go past the
potential economic success of hit-product releases; through what we
believe are purpose-led approaches, meaningful initiatives and one
of a kind experiences, throughout their respective value-chains and
overall products lifecycles, for the greater good. We hope you’ll enjoy
discovering these findings, resulting of our exploratory process and
Intelligence core business that we consider a crucial part of our
efforts to frame the conversation about what’s next.
3
GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_
October 2019
Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion
_The Black Box #2
AVAILABLEHEREAT€1,250* * EX VAT
The 50+ page full version
of this trends review includes:
➡ A selection of the best cases illustrating each trends
application through diverse takes on experiences and
approaches by brands in the Fashion & Technology
fields and organizations
➡ Our dedicated suggestions to help you adopt these
trends and stay ahead of the curve
➡ A special perk, in the form of a Bonus Key Trend
embodying the current zeitgeist, as a dedicated
reward for supporting our current efforts
8TRENDSSHAPINGTHEFUTURE_
SUMMARY
SummaryWelcome
October 2019
Trends Bonus Conclusion
_The Black Box #2
I. TAKE LASH
II. META-CLOTHING
III. SPACEGASM
IV. MISGUIDED DESIGN
V. BELIEVABILITY CRISIS
VI. QUESTIONING CRITICISM
VII. THE RESALE ARMS RACE
VIII. DATA MANICHAEISM
5
TABLEOFCONTENT
TRENDS_
SummaryWelcome Trends Bonus Conclusion
October 2019_The Black Box #2
6
TRENDI.TAKELASH
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
I.TAKELASH
_The Black Box #2
The last few months have seen
numerous moves from Fashion and
Luxury brands in favor of sustainability
efforts in the industry, yet the public
response seems unwavering. As with
the current protest against Big Techs,
press releases and pact signing are
increasingly perceived as hollow,
toothless, or worse, useless marketing
ploys; signaling how sustainability itself,
as a concept, is losing its meaning in
the process.
7
INSHORT_
TRENDI.TAKELASH
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
_The Black Box #2 October 2019
2019 saw Fashion and Luxury houses take steps
in the right direction (be it spontaneously or after
being pressured to), reacting to the desire for a
more sustainable approach for the industry
becoming mandatory, through the will of young
generations and protestors alike. Yet, while
headlines felt encouraging at first, it took little to
no time for people (individuals and experts) to
notice that few were putting their money where
their mouth is. Indeed, pacts and evolving
business practices towards a greener, more
responsible product development process fail
continuously to show a sheer possibility of being
a greater goal than their quest for profitability.
8
WHATITMEANS_
TRENDI.TAKELASH
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
_The Black Box #2 October 2019
9
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDI.TAKELASH _The Black Box #2
According to the UN, the fashion industry dumps an estimated 92
million tons of textile waste into landfills each year. That figure could
increase by up to 60% in the next decade.
Weary of what they now consider to be only media hype, consumers
are still waiting for fashion and luxury brands to show a sincere
willingness to take risks to right their many wrongs. The long term
risk of this situation lies in the possibility of seeing the public turn on
them, as seen with tech companies (even though, Big Tech are still
stronger than ever, even after the intense backlash they endured and
their ability to remain, in a sense, inescapable). As the environmental
challenge becomes more and more political each day, so is the
viewpoint of people: every communication efforts now stirs suspicion
and comes under scrutiny.
However, such mental block lies in the complexity to widely educate,
being correctly understood and changing consumption habits, that
translate in a lack of sustainability street cred from brands. While
some are aware of the complexity of the Fashion supply-chain, many
are still believing a one size fits all, perfect solution lies somewhere.
Such belief, built on our collective tech-solutionist approach to our era (the
evergreen "there’s an app for that" motto), prevents to realize that even recent
developments aren’t infaillible. The Adidas & Stella McCartney’s Inifinite
Hoodie pilot project, while appreciated as a Proof of Concept, still faces many
hurdles to become a mainstream development process. Take back programs,
an interesting opportunity to tackle the fashion recycling problem, often ends
up becoming another way to stand out and profit at the same time, at the
expense of a more sustainable way of enjoying fashion and needed
investments to revamp supply chains. In the meantime, figures tend to show
our throwaway culture persists, with about 40 to 50 per cent of collected
clothing in the US being too damaged to salvage, according to the Secondary
Materials and Recycled Textiles Association, forcing even the most proactive
brands to store damaged products indefinitely, until they figure out what to do
about them.
As the online interest in recycling fashion is constantly growing every month,
myths about recycled remain to be deconstructed, as much as presenting the
whole industry’s current shift as a meticulous work in progress rather than a
radical and simplistic turn.
10
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
II.METACLOTHING
TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2
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TRENDII.METACLOTHING
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
_The Black Box #2 October 2019
The very concept of buying and owning
clothes has extended beyond individualism
(in between what we want and what is
expected of us) and flaunting. The thirst for
speculation and making gains from wares
has ignited fashion, thanks mainly to the
‘Cop or Drop then Resale’ mentality born
from the Streetwear and Sneakers
phenomenons. Considering the virtual world
not as unreal, but as an extension of the real
world — and of the self — Fashion and
Luxury might morph into something
purchased not to be owned or (necessarily)
worn in our daily lives, but rather as an asset
that will increase in monetary value over
time.
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WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2 October 2019
This luxury inside Luxury itself saw its
inception in the specific relationship
millennials had towards iconic pieces for
the last five to ten years (regarding it as
a financial investment or a safe haven),
but also in consumption habits
observable in Japan in the 80’s, which
set the resale practice decades before it
became common in the U.S. Seeing its
immaterial dimension extending further,
way beyond the sensory, tastes and
desires; luxury not only became
ubiquitous but now exceeds its
traditional representations in various
ways.
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WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2
The physical importance of Fashion and Luxury clothing feels like
less and less relevant in front of the immaterial and invisible, as
individuals are focusing mainly on maximizing their consumption,
motivated by hype and the need to belong to an enticing community
and, even more, profit from it financially speaking. While it could be
dismissed as a simple sign of hard economic times, such consumer
behavior knows no bounds and can be observed in any parts of the
world, making it something driven as much by necessity as
profiteering. This current global movement can be interpreted as a
step further in the growth of the immaterial significance and definition
of clothing (along the influence of social media and gaming), which
might shorten the lifecycle of new products all the while further
fueling the resale market and allowing digital clothing to take off.
With virtual becoming increasingly real and the real world
increasingly virtual (with virtual influencers being an embodiment of
this merger), designing clothes for individuals wanting to earn
currency might become a thing, be it real money or social clout.
The recent sale of the Iridescence dress (created by Dapper Labs, a company
that makes consumer blockchain products, designed by The Fabricant, a
virtual fashion house based in Amsterdam and purchased for nearly $10,000
on Ethereum in a charity auction at a blockchain conference in New York)
might be the perfect business case to illustrate it: while the garment can’t be
worn in the real world, it is designed to be tailored for the buyer based on a
photograph and still making room for its IRL equivalent to be conceived if
necessary; making it kind of worth it for superstar influencers and supposedly
for environmentally-conscious consumers seeking attention on social platforms
(contributing to their #OOTD streak without worrying about sustainable and
physical aspects of clothes - …and forgetting about the environmental footprint
of digital objects). Earlier this year, Carlings launched its own digital collection,
a move also embraced in other forms by brands such as New Balance and
Gucci on Genies avatars, making it an increasingly interesting area and
appealing manner of engaging a younger audience, all the while building a
new entry point for future potential consumers and boost brand desirability in a
singular way.
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TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
III.SPACEGASM
TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2
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TRENDIII.SPACEGASM
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
_The Black Box #2 October 2019
As Space exploration earns its
stripes back, the sceneries of rocket
launches are rapidly becoming
clearer than ever in our collective
imaginaries. While governments and
private organizations are indeed
speeding things up to make space
tourism a reality, the theme is
already the basis of present ads, and
might become a key element of
desirability in the near future beyond
communication.
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WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2 October 2019
First were the future spacesuits, then space terminals
and a Roadster sent to orbit the Sun. Now, NASA’s
announcement that the ISS is (metaphorically) open for
business and tourists. Space tourism is poised for an
amazing commercial growth at low-earth orbit (100 to
1,240 miles above the planet’s surface), as big players
and several startups are making several plans spanning
from space hotels to in-space manufacturing, marketing
activities, healthcare research and more. Astronauts and
private space cowboys will even be able to visit the ISS
as early as 2020, meaning that pioneering (and wealthy)
individuals will soon need to pack up accordingly. A
welcome opportunity for brands and beyond, embodying
the coming of age of a whole new aesthetic and a new
step towards the future of design.
17
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2
Venturing beyond the confines of our planet could bring along a
whole new take on design with it, functionally and aesthetically
speaking. Considering the plans for new space stations to open (like
Orion Span’s Aurora Station projected to be open for visits in 2022),
people will soon be waltzing in zero gravity while gazing upon earth,
meaning that leaving in space will progressively become an
important part of a growing number of consumer's lifestyles. While it
would take a decade for it to go mainstream, the best time to
experiment and develop an offering for it might be right now, as
technologies to enable access to space are thriving, with visionaries
exploring deep space travel (cf. Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin) and
envisioning a village on the moon, with unobstructed views of the
planet and gourmet food served. Being among the first movers in this
segment might unlock incredible opportunities and possibilities of
creating unique, singular and exclusive products and experiences
beyond the ones available at the moment.
As the future of luxury gets drawn before our very eyes, the ultimate frontier
will soon become a major canvas for creators, innovators and designers of all
kind. This could become a reality in low orbit and here on earth as well.
Indeed, the challenges of life in outer-space already offer trails about current
challenges our societies is trying to overcome (making our industries greener,
using innovative materials, galvanizing upcycling, easing the automation
transition…) as well as challenges we have relevantly exploiting cutting edge
technologies (3D/4D printing for instance, as seen with the AI spacefactory’s
NASA-award-winning ‘MARSHA’ mars habitat). Be it creatively or scientifically
(high and low-tech innovations), this era might see revolutions developed in
orbit applied locally, making breakthroughs discovered and applied during
space exploration viable alternatives to our modern ways of producing/
creating/building/living.
18
TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
IV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN
_The Black Box #2
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INSHORT_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2 October 2019
Fashion Tech experimentations, while
still niche, are getting bigger and
bolder, with emerging concepts filled
with audacity all the while seeming very
convincing. Yet, many of those
innovations are often conceived without
taking into account the real impacts nor
anticipating the potential unintended
consequences they can produce in the
near future – if they went mainstream –
for the future of mankind and the
environment alike.
20
WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2 October 2019
Exploiting cutting edge technologies and putting
them into garments, accessories or any other
everyday life objects long felt like a dreamlike
possibility. Designers and creators of all sorts
are rushing to bring innovative products to
market with the best intentions possible, doing
their very best to compete in a whole new space
that demands agility, leaving little to no room for
taking into account all the possible future risks.
As these young creators are fighting hard to
reach success, the window for choosing the
most desirable futures of clothing is
unfortunately narrowing.
21
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2
Be it connected clothes or garments reacting to your brain
frequencies, the possibilities seem endless, and so are the potential
unintended consequences of such innovative products. Beyond the
invasive aspects of some prototypes – going as far as reading your
emotions, in an era when we have a hard time figuring out what to do
with data – one of those emerging concept might end up deciding the
very future of the Fashion and Luxury industries. Consequently, it is
now critical for creatives to get closer to researchers and
professionals working in the field of soft sciences (sociology,
anthropology, philosophy…). More than ever, critical structures and
support are needed as individuals are furthering their exploration of
fashion as a mean of self-expression. Designing for an intelligent
future is no small task, and while taking into account all the possible
causes and effects on people's lives can feel overwhelming, willful
ignorance shouldn’t be the only way out of it.
As things are, the goal shouldn’t be to shatter hopes and dreams, but to
provide individuals with the necessary knowledge to leverage such faith in
their project and anticipate the future properly, helping them to end up happy
and, hopefully, making their businesses profitable by bringing in one last key
component: trust. Meeting the needs of your stakeholders and anticipating
their future demands will prove decisive in the long run, as being trustworthy is
currently deciding the very fate of any modern brands. While both innovating
and managing risks, surrounded by like-minded minds and disagreeing ones
as well, first-movers gain the ability to secure a long lasting competitive
advantage and be in a position of defining a future-proof standard.
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TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
V.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS
TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2
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INSHORT_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2 October 2019
Fashion-tech companies rapidly got
public, with investors rushing to these
fresh stocks that promise gains through
algorithms, though many fashion-tech
firms are unprofitable and could soon
face rising costs.
Riding on that phenomenon are
companies that take advantage of
investor’s (and customers’ alike)
interest for the emerging segment, all
the while masquerading their defective
or even, sometimes, non-existing
product, behind hype.
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WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2 October 2019
Many are still scratching their heads when
getting a sense of what Fashion Tech means: is
technology the core enabler of innovative
business models or is technology simply
exploited as a glossy finishing word?
In spite of its still nebulous definition, many
companies lately filed for IPOs and became the
hottest thing for investors, many others are
taking advantage of the phenomenon, claiming
they provide fashion with a tech backbone to
take advantage of the hype, through deceitful
publicity stunts that hurt the entirety of the
market.
25
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2
“Hype is real […] If a product goes viral for any reason, whether
because people think it’s incredible or people think: ‘Oh my God, I’d
never wear that thing,’ what we see is that it causes this dramatic,
often 1,000%-plus spike in searches for that particular product.” Katy
Lubin, Lyst’s vice-president of communications.
Riding on hype to market a supposedly groundbreaking product
leads consumers to expect perfection when cashing on it. And like
most individuals nowadays, people start to worry only after
technology had its way with them. Zozo's Zozosuit case illustrates
such matter to perfection: after sending millions of its products to
shoppers for free (promising the perfect fit from any brands in return),
the service was shut down, leading to the discovery that the project
was treated as a marketing expanse rather than the promising
concept it was supposed to be. Those scam-like operations are
gaining in popularity, invading other commercial areas and eroding
customers and investors’ trust at the same time.
On the opposite side of the spectrum is Farfetch, which found success with its global
distribution platform, after rapidly building its network of retailers and partners, all the
while assembling a vast, relevant offering. Yet, the company seems to be struggling
while supposedly switching its business model (following its acquisition of Stadium
Goods and New Guards Group); making it unclear what its ambitions are for traders,
while some suppose the current and possibly future M&A move suggests that the
company's end goal might be to build the fashion and luxury conglomerate of the
future.
Contrarily to the latter example, these multiplying untested (and sometimes non-
existing) models prove specifically problematic, as customers are willing to be more
and more experimental, eager to be early adopters of what could be the future of
fashion (who end up feeling confused, used and then pessimistic about the emerging
segment). An appetite that gets trampled by bad press, not so long after they became
extensively discussed amongst journalists, experts and people on social media,
based only on their sole announcements and press releases. Instead of moving the
market in the right direction, such fads instill doubts in the minds of the general public
and contribute in making anything that relates to fashion and innovation part of a
speculative bubble. As trust from the stock markets remain until now, due to the
promise of high-growth and the supposed nimbleness of the current Fashion Tech
champions, we need to focus on the fact that agility – though very valuable – doesn’t
equate strategy.
26
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
VI.QUESTIONING
CRITICISM
TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2
27
INSHORT_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019
There’s a new guard of fashion critics
and it is here to stay, giving a second
wind to a journalistic approach on
fashion creations, shows and the
industry as a whole, an exercise that
lost visibility these last few years. For
the sake of greater transparency and
establishing a new kind of authority
(and LOLs, lots lof LOLs), those
individuals act as vigilantes rather than
influencers, calling out knockoffs and
other injustices on instantaneous
platforms, sometimes in a debatable
manner.
28_The Black Box #2
WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM October 2019
Fashion Vigilantes, in a sense, remind us of
Celebrity Editors (and sometimes with them,
fashion meme makers). Having become the go-
to source for crowds to gain access and
knowledge on a very different field, their
popularity show why fashion brands and retailers
are so right to take their e-reputation and social
listening practices so seriously: away from
traditional news, freedom, culture and critical
judgement are kings, and no one can escape it.
However, what makes it a complicated matter is
the way their (mostly) anonymous voice spread
through social media, spanning controversy
more often than understanding.
29
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2
“Someone once said they thought Joan Rivers had sent us from
hell to keep doing her work. It's the best compliment we've ever
gotten.” Diet Prada to Vogue UK, June 2018
Is it a matter of manner, or is the burn so unbearable? Like a sign of
times, anonymity is (kind of) the new fame, and along with it, the
ability to associate in-depth research and criticism with the sufficient
dose of laughter, in a digestible way. But establishing oneself as an
individual with an opinion that matters sometimes comes with serious
downsides. While their actions become a positive force for change
(about social issues, such as diversity, equality, cultural
appropriation…), things often turn to confrontation, especially with
people not being happy with Instagram and other social platform’s
sways. Not everybody is amused by the amount of drama generated,
especially considering how the virtual world is integrated in people’s
lives nowadays. And if some brands are pretty wary of this situation
and take the relevant steps to address it, a certain number of
individuals go as far as labelling it the destruction of freedom of
expression and the tyranny of political correctness.
Censorship or common sense? While critics spend their time arguing on the
risk to the industry of public shaming and sometimes dismissing it as poor
quality journalism, in the name of sheer creativity and true progressiveness;
some might want to take a moment to understand the times they are living in
now: the public hasn’t necessarily changed or isn’t necessarily easily offended,
but it now has a voice brands can’t just ignore. Though this doesn’t mean there
should be laws to creativity, ever, they shouldn’t deny a socially aware public
its newfound way of exercising its freedom of expression. Rejecting scrutiny
won’t achieve any other effect than the loss of customers, at a time when the
always-on fashion consumer is increasingly diverse, young and
uncompromising.
30
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
VII.THERESALE
ARMSRACE
TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2
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INSHORT_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2 October 2019
Fashion brands have become
accustomed to product drops as a
practice and frantically exploit it as a
mean to underline the scarcity of some of
their most iconic product from their
product offering and archives, helped by
the surge of second hand platforms and
marketplaces. However, it seems no one
was ready to anticipate the downsides of
product drops as experienced in the past
by the Sneakers market: as of now, the
bot market is thriving into new areas
(designer clothes and exclusive pieces),
setting fashion consumers in an arms race
mentality.
32
WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2 October 2019
The internet’s depth is kind of shady, and while
it’s common knowledge, brands currently
underestimate how much individuals are
tempted and courted to cheat the system to lay
their hands on the rarest and most sought after
goods. In this motivation lies an ever growing
underground ecosystem, which endangers
Fashion and Luxury brands' product strategies,
all the while fueling the resale market for
ridiculous amounts of money. The priority now, is
to figure out how to curb this phenomenon
before it becomes a widespread practice and a
cybersecurity issue.
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WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2
« […] finalphoenix had stumbled into a lively ecosystem of hype bots
—bots just designed to grab clothing, probably to impress others—
scrapers, and resellers, some who use black hat tactics and bribery
to get what they want to turn a profit. » Inside the Black Market for
Bots That Buy Designer Clothes Before They Sell Out, by Joseph
Cox for Vice.
Hacker culture is everywhere, it is already part of our lives even in
the most basic ways. As individuals, we tend to sometime cheat
some internet systems in order to enjoy all the benefits without the
downsides. Using a VPN nowadays, for instance, is now a common
practice and has even become a standard commercial offering. Yet,
such behavior is nothing new in the realm of online shopping,
considering how some used a proxy service in the past to shop
products only available in certain parts of the world. Now bots are
becoming the new black for people in search of designer clothes and
frustrated with them going instantly sold out. What was perceptible in
entertainment (with ticket scalpers), on the sneaker market and
during any Supreme online drops is now crawling in the Fashion and
Luxury industry.
Social media also played its part in the phenomenon, especially considering
how it became a household word due to the many scams (currently, 53% of all
login attempts on social media are scammers, automated break-in efforts by
fraudsters according to Arkose Labs), frauds and disinformation campaigns
people grew accustomed with. We might be on the verge of a breaking point,
at which such practices get applied on any brand’s customers account,
endangering the integrity of their private information while black hat tactics and
bribery allow malevolent individuals to take advantage of a brands’ popularity
and scarcity. Watching the emergence of Fashion and Luxury buying bots,
autofills and other monitoring tools, might just be the beginning of something
that could become a serious cybersecurity issue, all the while frustrating any
brand’s core consumers enough to put customer loyalty in jeopardy. Even
worse would be to see this becoming mainstream, with any individuals relying
on automated software to buy limited-release shoes as soon as they go on
sale; triggering in the long run an actual arms race in the virtual world,
powered by the deep web.
34
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
VIII.DATAMANICHAEISM
TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2
35
INSHORT_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019
As our anxieties and fears about
the malicious use of data grow
everyday, with the news cycles
and privacy announcements from
tech giants, our collective vision
seems to be reduced to a good
vs. bad narrative. People are now
becoming increasingly convinced
that no alternatives exist for this
important piece of information to
provide any benefits at all, in a
fair and sustainable way.
36
WHATITMEANS_
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019
It is of paramount importance that we collectively
go beyond this simplistic dynamic when debating
about data use. The current discourse, while
more important than ever considering the harm it
did the last few years, still prevents us to
consider this subject holistically. With everybody
worrying how their data are being handled and
used, the fight for data rights is ramping up, but
sill faces many hurdles putting every brands at
risk: the internet divide between the East and the
West, disruptors and big players playing by
different rules and malevolent individuals/entities
over the web (think ransomware and other
hacks).
37
WHYITMATTERS_
October 2019
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2
Faced with its incredible potential, especially in regards to the
sustainability improvements it can unlock, Fashion and Luxury
brands are keeping an eye on the global reckoning over data privacy.
Forced to cope with this reality, it is becoming increasingly
complicated to reconcile it with their expansion plans to leverage the
technology. Brands and retailers are looking for ways to leverage
vast amounts of consumer data to keep their pricing strategies
competitive and tailor their offering (inspired by Amazon’s success,
which personalization strategies represented 35% of its sales in 2018
according to a McKinsey & Co's report); while facing the hard task of
convincing reluctant consumers to hand over more information.
Figures from Retail Economics tend to show that even though the
next decade seems very promising for the industry – under the
condition that the relevant technology gets fully implemented – two
out of three respondents declared they do not trust retailers to act
responsibly and protect their data. Combined with half of those
surveyed saying they were unwilling to share personal data such as
body shape, weight or height to enhance product recommendation
accuracy, the use of big data analytics feels trickier than ever.
It thus comes along with a need to govern and curate data with extreme care,
forcing brands and retailers to define the winning formula that reconciles
trustworthiness, convenience and data security, fostering deeper engagement
from individuals and creating compelling and innovative experiences. With the
high-street on the verge to get really smart, expectations and concerns will
grow consequently and stronger sets of privacy laws will ensue. Whilst
societies around the world are still trying to figure out the benefits and
drawbacks of breaking up Big Tech, the winning brands in the future will be
those able to stray away from the data-for-services bargain, and bring forth a
singular, ethical, acceptable and as safe as possible value proposition that is
worth it in the eyes of fashion and luxury consumers.
38
TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary
October 2019
TRENDVII+1.????? _The Black Box #2
GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_
VIII+1.ACCESS
LOCKED
XX
THE
MULTIVERSE
AGE
6
SummaryWelcome
TREND8+1 October 2019_The Black Box
Trends Bonus ConclusionSummary
40October 2019
Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion
_The Black Box #2
* EX VAT
The Black Box serves as a vessel to help individuals, startups and
companies interested in the Fashion Innovation landscape, to better
navigate this complex yet fascinating era of tremendous changes.
As the movement has been gaining steam, the need remains to
underline that the key shake-ups unlocking the possible futures of
fashion and technology nowadays go way beyond game changing
products and business models. As shown in this prospective trends
report, to foster a brighter and more sustainable future, industries
now need to undertake major transformation that go past the
potential economic success of hit-product releases; through what we
believe are purpose-led approaches, meaningful initiatives and one
of a kind experiences, throughout their respective value-chains and
overall products lifecycles, for the greater good. We hope you’ll enjoy
discovering these findings, resulting of our exploratory process and
Intelligence core business that we consider a crucial part of our
efforts to frame the conversation about what’s next.
GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_
AVAILABLEHEREAT€1,250*
The 50+ page full version
of this trends review includes:
➡ A selection of the best cases illustrating each trends
application through diverse takes on experiences and
approaches by brands in the Fashion & Technology
fields and organizations
➡ Our dedicated suggestions to help you adopt these
trends and stay ahead of the curve
➡ A special perk, in the form of a Bonus Key Trend
embodying the current zeitgeist, as a dedicated
reward for supporting our current efforts
SLIDE 1 & 61 - TOBIAS BJØRKLI
SLIDE 2 - MARCUS LÖFVENBERG
SLIDE 3 & 40 - PIXABAY
SLIDE 5 - JACKSON
SLIDE 6 - BOB BLOB
SLIDE 7 & 8 - MARCUS SPISKE
SLIDE 9 - MIKA BAUMEISTER
SLIDE 10 TO 13 - THE FABRICANT
SLIDE 14 - JOEL FILIPE
SLIDE 15 TO 17 - NASA
SLIDE 18 - PAWEL CZERWIŃSKI
SLIDE 19 - AHMETATILAKAR (TUMBLR)
SLIDE 20 - ANDY HYD
SLIDE 21 - TOBIAS CARLSSON
SLIDE 22 - CICRET BRACELET
SLIDE 23 - WISEWEAR
SLIDE 24 - REUTERS/MIKE BLAKE
SLIDE 25 - ZOZO/ZOZOSUIT
SLIDE 26 - THE NEW YORK TIMES - "WE’RE ALL DRINKING DIET
PRADA NOW" BY JONAH ENGEL BROMWICH (MARCH 2019)
SLIDE 27 - HIGHSNOBIETY - OP-ED / "THE AGE OF POLITICAL
CORRECTNESS WILL KILL GREAT FASHION" BY EUGENE RABKIN
(APRIL 2019)
SLIDE 28 - VOGUE UK - "DIET PRADA HAS BEEN SENT BY JOAN
RIVERS TO KEEP DOING HER WORK" - BY ALICE NEWBOLD (JUNE
2018)
SLIDE 29 - VOGUE ITALIA - "DI LIBERTA CREATIVÀ E POLITICALLY
CORRECT" - BY ANGELO FLACCAVENTO (MARCH 2019)
SLIDE 30 - GLODI MIESSI
SLIDE 31 - REINHART JULIAN
SLIDE 32 - ERIK MCLEAN
SLIDE 33 - MOTHERBOARD - "INSIDE THE BLACK MARKET FOR
BOTS THAT UY DESIGNER CLOTHES BEFORE THEY SELL OUT" -
BY JOSEPH COX (JUNE 2019)
SLIDE 34 - IBRAHIM RIFATH
SLIDE 35 - SERGE KUTUZOV
SLIDE 36 - LUCAS GALLONE
SLIDE 37 - LIANHAO QU
40
CREDITS_
October 2019
Welcome Summary Trends
_The Black Box #2
Bonus Conclusion
42October 2019_The Black Box #2
All rights reserved. Futur404, its logo, and Not Found_Yet are trademarks of Futur404. This document is not
intended to provide specific advice on your circumstances. If you require advice or further details on any matters
referred to, please contact a Futur404 representative. This document makes descriptive reference to trademarks
that may be owned by others. The use of such trademarks herein is not an assertion of ownership of such trademarks
by Futur404 and is not intended to represent or imply the existence of an association between Futur404 and the
lawful owners of such trademarks.
allan@futur404.com
noemie@futur404.com
theblackbox@futur404.com
futur404.com
Station F - Parvis Alan Turing 75013 PARIS
H2 2019
THEBLACKBOX_H22019
TRENDSSHAPINGFASHION&INNOVATION

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THE_BLACK_BOX | TRENDS SHAPING FASHION & INNOVATION | H2_2019 (LITE)

  • 2. October 2019_The Black Box #2 TOTHEBLACKBOX_ WELCOME WELCOME Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion
  • 3. The Black Box serves as a vessel to help individuals, startups and companies interested in the Fashion Innovation landscape, to better navigate this complex yet fascinating era of tremendous changes. As the movement has been gaining steam, the need remains to underline that the key shake-ups unlocking the possible futures of fashion and technology nowadays go way beyond game changing products and business models. As shown in this prospective trends report, to foster a brighter and more sustainable future, industries now need to undertake major transformation that go past the potential economic success of hit-product releases; through what we believe are purpose-led approaches, meaningful initiatives and one of a kind experiences, throughout their respective value-chains and overall products lifecycles, for the greater good. We hope you’ll enjoy discovering these findings, resulting of our exploratory process and Intelligence core business that we consider a crucial part of our efforts to frame the conversation about what’s next. 3 GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_ October 2019 Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion _The Black Box #2 AVAILABLEHEREAT€1,250* * EX VAT The 50+ page full version of this trends review includes: ➡ A selection of the best cases illustrating each trends application through diverse takes on experiences and approaches by brands in the Fashion & Technology fields and organizations ➡ Our dedicated suggestions to help you adopt these trends and stay ahead of the curve ➡ A special perk, in the form of a Bonus Key Trend embodying the current zeitgeist, as a dedicated reward for supporting our current efforts
  • 5. I. TAKE LASH II. META-CLOTHING III. SPACEGASM IV. MISGUIDED DESIGN V. BELIEVABILITY CRISIS VI. QUESTIONING CRITICISM VII. THE RESALE ARMS RACE VIII. DATA MANICHAEISM 5 TABLEOFCONTENT TRENDS_ SummaryWelcome Trends Bonus Conclusion October 2019_The Black Box #2
  • 7. The last few months have seen numerous moves from Fashion and Luxury brands in favor of sustainability efforts in the industry, yet the public response seems unwavering. As with the current protest against Big Techs, press releases and pact signing are increasingly perceived as hollow, toothless, or worse, useless marketing ploys; signaling how sustainability itself, as a concept, is losing its meaning in the process. 7 INSHORT_ TRENDI.TAKELASH TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary _The Black Box #2 October 2019
  • 8. 2019 saw Fashion and Luxury houses take steps in the right direction (be it spontaneously or after being pressured to), reacting to the desire for a more sustainable approach for the industry becoming mandatory, through the will of young generations and protestors alike. Yet, while headlines felt encouraging at first, it took little to no time for people (individuals and experts) to notice that few were putting their money where their mouth is. Indeed, pacts and evolving business practices towards a greener, more responsible product development process fail continuously to show a sheer possibility of being a greater goal than their quest for profitability. 8 WHATITMEANS_ TRENDI.TAKELASH TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary _The Black Box #2 October 2019
  • 9. 9 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDI.TAKELASH _The Black Box #2 According to the UN, the fashion industry dumps an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste into landfills each year. That figure could increase by up to 60% in the next decade. Weary of what they now consider to be only media hype, consumers are still waiting for fashion and luxury brands to show a sincere willingness to take risks to right their many wrongs. The long term risk of this situation lies in the possibility of seeing the public turn on them, as seen with tech companies (even though, Big Tech are still stronger than ever, even after the intense backlash they endured and their ability to remain, in a sense, inescapable). As the environmental challenge becomes more and more political each day, so is the viewpoint of people: every communication efforts now stirs suspicion and comes under scrutiny. However, such mental block lies in the complexity to widely educate, being correctly understood and changing consumption habits, that translate in a lack of sustainability street cred from brands. While some are aware of the complexity of the Fashion supply-chain, many are still believing a one size fits all, perfect solution lies somewhere. Such belief, built on our collective tech-solutionist approach to our era (the evergreen "there’s an app for that" motto), prevents to realize that even recent developments aren’t infaillible. The Adidas & Stella McCartney’s Inifinite Hoodie pilot project, while appreciated as a Proof of Concept, still faces many hurdles to become a mainstream development process. Take back programs, an interesting opportunity to tackle the fashion recycling problem, often ends up becoming another way to stand out and profit at the same time, at the expense of a more sustainable way of enjoying fashion and needed investments to revamp supply chains. In the meantime, figures tend to show our throwaway culture persists, with about 40 to 50 per cent of collected clothing in the US being too damaged to salvage, according to the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association, forcing even the most proactive brands to store damaged products indefinitely, until they figure out what to do about them. As the online interest in recycling fashion is constantly growing every month, myths about recycled remain to be deconstructed, as much as presenting the whole industry’s current shift as a meticulous work in progress rather than a radical and simplistic turn.
  • 10. 10 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 II.METACLOTHING TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2
  • 11. 11 INSHORT_ TRENDII.METACLOTHING TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary _The Black Box #2 October 2019 The very concept of buying and owning clothes has extended beyond individualism (in between what we want and what is expected of us) and flaunting. The thirst for speculation and making gains from wares has ignited fashion, thanks mainly to the ‘Cop or Drop then Resale’ mentality born from the Streetwear and Sneakers phenomenons. Considering the virtual world not as unreal, but as an extension of the real world — and of the self — Fashion and Luxury might morph into something purchased not to be owned or (necessarily) worn in our daily lives, but rather as an asset that will increase in monetary value over time.
  • 12. 12 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2 October 2019 This luxury inside Luxury itself saw its inception in the specific relationship millennials had towards iconic pieces for the last five to ten years (regarding it as a financial investment or a safe haven), but also in consumption habits observable in Japan in the 80’s, which set the resale practice decades before it became common in the U.S. Seeing its immaterial dimension extending further, way beyond the sensory, tastes and desires; luxury not only became ubiquitous but now exceeds its traditional representations in various ways.
  • 13. 13 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDII.METACLOTHING _The Black Box #2 The physical importance of Fashion and Luxury clothing feels like less and less relevant in front of the immaterial and invisible, as individuals are focusing mainly on maximizing their consumption, motivated by hype and the need to belong to an enticing community and, even more, profit from it financially speaking. While it could be dismissed as a simple sign of hard economic times, such consumer behavior knows no bounds and can be observed in any parts of the world, making it something driven as much by necessity as profiteering. This current global movement can be interpreted as a step further in the growth of the immaterial significance and definition of clothing (along the influence of social media and gaming), which might shorten the lifecycle of new products all the while further fueling the resale market and allowing digital clothing to take off. With virtual becoming increasingly real and the real world increasingly virtual (with virtual influencers being an embodiment of this merger), designing clothes for individuals wanting to earn currency might become a thing, be it real money or social clout. The recent sale of the Iridescence dress (created by Dapper Labs, a company that makes consumer blockchain products, designed by The Fabricant, a virtual fashion house based in Amsterdam and purchased for nearly $10,000 on Ethereum in a charity auction at a blockchain conference in New York) might be the perfect business case to illustrate it: while the garment can’t be worn in the real world, it is designed to be tailored for the buyer based on a photograph and still making room for its IRL equivalent to be conceived if necessary; making it kind of worth it for superstar influencers and supposedly for environmentally-conscious consumers seeking attention on social platforms (contributing to their #OOTD streak without worrying about sustainable and physical aspects of clothes - …and forgetting about the environmental footprint of digital objects). Earlier this year, Carlings launched its own digital collection, a move also embraced in other forms by brands such as New Balance and Gucci on Genies avatars, making it an increasingly interesting area and appealing manner of engaging a younger audience, all the while building a new entry point for future potential consumers and boost brand desirability in a singular way.
  • 14. 14 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 III.SPACEGASM TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2
  • 15. 15 INSHORT_ TRENDIII.SPACEGASM TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary _The Black Box #2 October 2019 As Space exploration earns its stripes back, the sceneries of rocket launches are rapidly becoming clearer than ever in our collective imaginaries. While governments and private organizations are indeed speeding things up to make space tourism a reality, the theme is already the basis of present ads, and might become a key element of desirability in the near future beyond communication.
  • 16. 16 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2 October 2019 First were the future spacesuits, then space terminals and a Roadster sent to orbit the Sun. Now, NASA’s announcement that the ISS is (metaphorically) open for business and tourists. Space tourism is poised for an amazing commercial growth at low-earth orbit (100 to 1,240 miles above the planet’s surface), as big players and several startups are making several plans spanning from space hotels to in-space manufacturing, marketing activities, healthcare research and more. Astronauts and private space cowboys will even be able to visit the ISS as early as 2020, meaning that pioneering (and wealthy) individuals will soon need to pack up accordingly. A welcome opportunity for brands and beyond, embodying the coming of age of a whole new aesthetic and a new step towards the future of design.
  • 17. 17 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDIII.SPACEGASM _The Black Box #2 Venturing beyond the confines of our planet could bring along a whole new take on design with it, functionally and aesthetically speaking. Considering the plans for new space stations to open (like Orion Span’s Aurora Station projected to be open for visits in 2022), people will soon be waltzing in zero gravity while gazing upon earth, meaning that leaving in space will progressively become an important part of a growing number of consumer's lifestyles. While it would take a decade for it to go mainstream, the best time to experiment and develop an offering for it might be right now, as technologies to enable access to space are thriving, with visionaries exploring deep space travel (cf. Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin) and envisioning a village on the moon, with unobstructed views of the planet and gourmet food served. Being among the first movers in this segment might unlock incredible opportunities and possibilities of creating unique, singular and exclusive products and experiences beyond the ones available at the moment. As the future of luxury gets drawn before our very eyes, the ultimate frontier will soon become a major canvas for creators, innovators and designers of all kind. This could become a reality in low orbit and here on earth as well. Indeed, the challenges of life in outer-space already offer trails about current challenges our societies is trying to overcome (making our industries greener, using innovative materials, galvanizing upcycling, easing the automation transition…) as well as challenges we have relevantly exploiting cutting edge technologies (3D/4D printing for instance, as seen with the AI spacefactory’s NASA-award-winning ‘MARSHA’ mars habitat). Be it creatively or scientifically (high and low-tech innovations), this era might see revolutions developed in orbit applied locally, making breakthroughs discovered and applied during space exploration viable alternatives to our modern ways of producing/ creating/building/living.
  • 19. 19 INSHORT_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2 October 2019 Fashion Tech experimentations, while still niche, are getting bigger and bolder, with emerging concepts filled with audacity all the while seeming very convincing. Yet, many of those innovations are often conceived without taking into account the real impacts nor anticipating the potential unintended consequences they can produce in the near future – if they went mainstream – for the future of mankind and the environment alike.
  • 20. 20 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2 October 2019 Exploiting cutting edge technologies and putting them into garments, accessories or any other everyday life objects long felt like a dreamlike possibility. Designers and creators of all sorts are rushing to bring innovative products to market with the best intentions possible, doing their very best to compete in a whole new space that demands agility, leaving little to no room for taking into account all the possible future risks. As these young creators are fighting hard to reach success, the window for choosing the most desirable futures of clothing is unfortunately narrowing.
  • 21. 21 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDIV.MISGUIDEDDESIGN _The Black Box #2 Be it connected clothes or garments reacting to your brain frequencies, the possibilities seem endless, and so are the potential unintended consequences of such innovative products. Beyond the invasive aspects of some prototypes – going as far as reading your emotions, in an era when we have a hard time figuring out what to do with data – one of those emerging concept might end up deciding the very future of the Fashion and Luxury industries. Consequently, it is now critical for creatives to get closer to researchers and professionals working in the field of soft sciences (sociology, anthropology, philosophy…). More than ever, critical structures and support are needed as individuals are furthering their exploration of fashion as a mean of self-expression. Designing for an intelligent future is no small task, and while taking into account all the possible causes and effects on people's lives can feel overwhelming, willful ignorance shouldn’t be the only way out of it. As things are, the goal shouldn’t be to shatter hopes and dreams, but to provide individuals with the necessary knowledge to leverage such faith in their project and anticipate the future properly, helping them to end up happy and, hopefully, making their businesses profitable by bringing in one last key component: trust. Meeting the needs of your stakeholders and anticipating their future demands will prove decisive in the long run, as being trustworthy is currently deciding the very fate of any modern brands. While both innovating and managing risks, surrounded by like-minded minds and disagreeing ones as well, first-movers gain the ability to secure a long lasting competitive advantage and be in a position of defining a future-proof standard.
  • 22. 22 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 V.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2
  • 23. 23 INSHORT_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2 October 2019 Fashion-tech companies rapidly got public, with investors rushing to these fresh stocks that promise gains through algorithms, though many fashion-tech firms are unprofitable and could soon face rising costs. Riding on that phenomenon are companies that take advantage of investor’s (and customers’ alike) interest for the emerging segment, all the while masquerading their defective or even, sometimes, non-existing product, behind hype.
  • 24. 24 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2 October 2019 Many are still scratching their heads when getting a sense of what Fashion Tech means: is technology the core enabler of innovative business models or is technology simply exploited as a glossy finishing word? In spite of its still nebulous definition, many companies lately filed for IPOs and became the hottest thing for investors, many others are taking advantage of the phenomenon, claiming they provide fashion with a tech backbone to take advantage of the hype, through deceitful publicity stunts that hurt the entirety of the market.
  • 25. 25 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDV.BELIEVABILITYCRISIS _The Black Box #2 “Hype is real […] If a product goes viral for any reason, whether because people think it’s incredible or people think: ‘Oh my God, I’d never wear that thing,’ what we see is that it causes this dramatic, often 1,000%-plus spike in searches for that particular product.” Katy Lubin, Lyst’s vice-president of communications. Riding on hype to market a supposedly groundbreaking product leads consumers to expect perfection when cashing on it. And like most individuals nowadays, people start to worry only after technology had its way with them. Zozo's Zozosuit case illustrates such matter to perfection: after sending millions of its products to shoppers for free (promising the perfect fit from any brands in return), the service was shut down, leading to the discovery that the project was treated as a marketing expanse rather than the promising concept it was supposed to be. Those scam-like operations are gaining in popularity, invading other commercial areas and eroding customers and investors’ trust at the same time. On the opposite side of the spectrum is Farfetch, which found success with its global distribution platform, after rapidly building its network of retailers and partners, all the while assembling a vast, relevant offering. Yet, the company seems to be struggling while supposedly switching its business model (following its acquisition of Stadium Goods and New Guards Group); making it unclear what its ambitions are for traders, while some suppose the current and possibly future M&A move suggests that the company's end goal might be to build the fashion and luxury conglomerate of the future. Contrarily to the latter example, these multiplying untested (and sometimes non- existing) models prove specifically problematic, as customers are willing to be more and more experimental, eager to be early adopters of what could be the future of fashion (who end up feeling confused, used and then pessimistic about the emerging segment). An appetite that gets trampled by bad press, not so long after they became extensively discussed amongst journalists, experts and people on social media, based only on their sole announcements and press releases. Instead of moving the market in the right direction, such fads instill doubts in the minds of the general public and contribute in making anything that relates to fashion and innovation part of a speculative bubble. As trust from the stock markets remain until now, due to the promise of high-growth and the supposed nimbleness of the current Fashion Tech champions, we need to focus on the fact that agility – though very valuable – doesn’t equate strategy.
  • 26. 26 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 VI.QUESTIONING CRITICISM TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2
  • 27. 27 INSHORT_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019 There’s a new guard of fashion critics and it is here to stay, giving a second wind to a journalistic approach on fashion creations, shows and the industry as a whole, an exercise that lost visibility these last few years. For the sake of greater transparency and establishing a new kind of authority (and LOLs, lots lof LOLs), those individuals act as vigilantes rather than influencers, calling out knockoffs and other injustices on instantaneous platforms, sometimes in a debatable manner.
  • 28. 28_The Black Box #2 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM October 2019 Fashion Vigilantes, in a sense, remind us of Celebrity Editors (and sometimes with them, fashion meme makers). Having become the go- to source for crowds to gain access and knowledge on a very different field, their popularity show why fashion brands and retailers are so right to take their e-reputation and social listening practices so seriously: away from traditional news, freedom, culture and critical judgement are kings, and no one can escape it. However, what makes it a complicated matter is the way their (mostly) anonymous voice spread through social media, spanning controversy more often than understanding.
  • 29. 29 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVI.QUESTIONINGCRITICISM _The Black Box #2 “Someone once said they thought Joan Rivers had sent us from hell to keep doing her work. It's the best compliment we've ever gotten.” Diet Prada to Vogue UK, June 2018 Is it a matter of manner, or is the burn so unbearable? Like a sign of times, anonymity is (kind of) the new fame, and along with it, the ability to associate in-depth research and criticism with the sufficient dose of laughter, in a digestible way. But establishing oneself as an individual with an opinion that matters sometimes comes with serious downsides. While their actions become a positive force for change (about social issues, such as diversity, equality, cultural appropriation…), things often turn to confrontation, especially with people not being happy with Instagram and other social platform’s sways. Not everybody is amused by the amount of drama generated, especially considering how the virtual world is integrated in people’s lives nowadays. And if some brands are pretty wary of this situation and take the relevant steps to address it, a certain number of individuals go as far as labelling it the destruction of freedom of expression and the tyranny of political correctness. Censorship or common sense? While critics spend their time arguing on the risk to the industry of public shaming and sometimes dismissing it as poor quality journalism, in the name of sheer creativity and true progressiveness; some might want to take a moment to understand the times they are living in now: the public hasn’t necessarily changed or isn’t necessarily easily offended, but it now has a voice brands can’t just ignore. Though this doesn’t mean there should be laws to creativity, ever, they shouldn’t deny a socially aware public its newfound way of exercising its freedom of expression. Rejecting scrutiny won’t achieve any other effect than the loss of customers, at a time when the always-on fashion consumer is increasingly diverse, young and uncompromising.
  • 30. 30 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 VII.THERESALE ARMSRACE TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2
  • 31. 31 INSHORT_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2 October 2019 Fashion brands have become accustomed to product drops as a practice and frantically exploit it as a mean to underline the scarcity of some of their most iconic product from their product offering and archives, helped by the surge of second hand platforms and marketplaces. However, it seems no one was ready to anticipate the downsides of product drops as experienced in the past by the Sneakers market: as of now, the bot market is thriving into new areas (designer clothes and exclusive pieces), setting fashion consumers in an arms race mentality.
  • 32. 32 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2 October 2019 The internet’s depth is kind of shady, and while it’s common knowledge, brands currently underestimate how much individuals are tempted and courted to cheat the system to lay their hands on the rarest and most sought after goods. In this motivation lies an ever growing underground ecosystem, which endangers Fashion and Luxury brands' product strategies, all the while fueling the resale market for ridiculous amounts of money. The priority now, is to figure out how to curb this phenomenon before it becomes a widespread practice and a cybersecurity issue.
  • 33. 33 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVII.THERESALEARMSRACE _The Black Box #2 « […] finalphoenix had stumbled into a lively ecosystem of hype bots —bots just designed to grab clothing, probably to impress others— scrapers, and resellers, some who use black hat tactics and bribery to get what they want to turn a profit. » Inside the Black Market for Bots That Buy Designer Clothes Before They Sell Out, by Joseph Cox for Vice. Hacker culture is everywhere, it is already part of our lives even in the most basic ways. As individuals, we tend to sometime cheat some internet systems in order to enjoy all the benefits without the downsides. Using a VPN nowadays, for instance, is now a common practice and has even become a standard commercial offering. Yet, such behavior is nothing new in the realm of online shopping, considering how some used a proxy service in the past to shop products only available in certain parts of the world. Now bots are becoming the new black for people in search of designer clothes and frustrated with them going instantly sold out. What was perceptible in entertainment (with ticket scalpers), on the sneaker market and during any Supreme online drops is now crawling in the Fashion and Luxury industry. Social media also played its part in the phenomenon, especially considering how it became a household word due to the many scams (currently, 53% of all login attempts on social media are scammers, automated break-in efforts by fraudsters according to Arkose Labs), frauds and disinformation campaigns people grew accustomed with. We might be on the verge of a breaking point, at which such practices get applied on any brand’s customers account, endangering the integrity of their private information while black hat tactics and bribery allow malevolent individuals to take advantage of a brands’ popularity and scarcity. Watching the emergence of Fashion and Luxury buying bots, autofills and other monitoring tools, might just be the beginning of something that could become a serious cybersecurity issue, all the while frustrating any brand’s core consumers enough to put customer loyalty in jeopardy. Even worse would be to see this becoming mainstream, with any individuals relying on automated software to buy limited-release shoes as soon as they go on sale; triggering in the long run an actual arms race in the virtual world, powered by the deep web.
  • 34. 34 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 VIII.DATAMANICHAEISM TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2
  • 35. 35 INSHORT_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019 As our anxieties and fears about the malicious use of data grow everyday, with the news cycles and privacy announcements from tech giants, our collective vision seems to be reduced to a good vs. bad narrative. People are now becoming increasingly convinced that no alternatives exist for this important piece of information to provide any benefits at all, in a fair and sustainable way.
  • 36. 36 WHATITMEANS_ TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2 October 2019 It is of paramount importance that we collectively go beyond this simplistic dynamic when debating about data use. The current discourse, while more important than ever considering the harm it did the last few years, still prevents us to consider this subject holistically. With everybody worrying how their data are being handled and used, the fight for data rights is ramping up, but sill faces many hurdles putting every brands at risk: the internet divide between the East and the West, disruptors and big players playing by different rules and malevolent individuals/entities over the web (think ransomware and other hacks).
  • 37. 37 WHYITMATTERS_ October 2019 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary TRENDVIII.DATAMANICHAEISM _The Black Box #2 Faced with its incredible potential, especially in regards to the sustainability improvements it can unlock, Fashion and Luxury brands are keeping an eye on the global reckoning over data privacy. Forced to cope with this reality, it is becoming increasingly complicated to reconcile it with their expansion plans to leverage the technology. Brands and retailers are looking for ways to leverage vast amounts of consumer data to keep their pricing strategies competitive and tailor their offering (inspired by Amazon’s success, which personalization strategies represented 35% of its sales in 2018 according to a McKinsey & Co's report); while facing the hard task of convincing reluctant consumers to hand over more information. Figures from Retail Economics tend to show that even though the next decade seems very promising for the industry – under the condition that the relevant technology gets fully implemented – two out of three respondents declared they do not trust retailers to act responsibly and protect their data. Combined with half of those surveyed saying they were unwilling to share personal data such as body shape, weight or height to enhance product recommendation accuracy, the use of big data analytics feels trickier than ever. It thus comes along with a need to govern and curate data with extreme care, forcing brands and retailers to define the winning formula that reconciles trustworthiness, convenience and data security, fostering deeper engagement from individuals and creating compelling and innovative experiences. With the high-street on the verge to get really smart, expectations and concerns will grow consequently and stronger sets of privacy laws will ensue. Whilst societies around the world are still trying to figure out the benefits and drawbacks of breaking up Big Tech, the winning brands in the future will be those able to stray away from the data-for-services bargain, and bring forth a singular, ethical, acceptable and as safe as possible value proposition that is worth it in the eyes of fashion and luxury consumers.
  • 38. 38 TrendsWelcome Bonus ConclusionSummary October 2019 TRENDVII+1.????? _The Black Box #2 GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_ VIII+1.ACCESS LOCKED
  • 39. XX THE MULTIVERSE AGE 6 SummaryWelcome TREND8+1 October 2019_The Black Box Trends Bonus ConclusionSummary
  • 40. 40October 2019 Welcome Trends BonusSummary Conclusion _The Black Box #2 * EX VAT The Black Box serves as a vessel to help individuals, startups and companies interested in the Fashion Innovation landscape, to better navigate this complex yet fascinating era of tremendous changes. As the movement has been gaining steam, the need remains to underline that the key shake-ups unlocking the possible futures of fashion and technology nowadays go way beyond game changing products and business models. As shown in this prospective trends report, to foster a brighter and more sustainable future, industries now need to undertake major transformation that go past the potential economic success of hit-product releases; through what we believe are purpose-led approaches, meaningful initiatives and one of a kind experiences, throughout their respective value-chains and overall products lifecycles, for the greater good. We hope you’ll enjoy discovering these findings, resulting of our exploratory process and Intelligence core business that we consider a crucial part of our efforts to frame the conversation about what’s next. GETYOURHANDSONTHEFULLREPORT_ AVAILABLEHEREAT€1,250* The 50+ page full version of this trends review includes: ➡ A selection of the best cases illustrating each trends application through diverse takes on experiences and approaches by brands in the Fashion & Technology fields and organizations ➡ Our dedicated suggestions to help you adopt these trends and stay ahead of the curve ➡ A special perk, in the form of a Bonus Key Trend embodying the current zeitgeist, as a dedicated reward for supporting our current efforts
  • 41. SLIDE 1 & 61 - TOBIAS BJØRKLI SLIDE 2 - MARCUS LÖFVENBERG SLIDE 3 & 40 - PIXABAY SLIDE 5 - JACKSON SLIDE 6 - BOB BLOB SLIDE 7 & 8 - MARCUS SPISKE SLIDE 9 - MIKA BAUMEISTER SLIDE 10 TO 13 - THE FABRICANT SLIDE 14 - JOEL FILIPE SLIDE 15 TO 17 - NASA SLIDE 18 - PAWEL CZERWIŃSKI SLIDE 19 - AHMETATILAKAR (TUMBLR) SLIDE 20 - ANDY HYD SLIDE 21 - TOBIAS CARLSSON SLIDE 22 - CICRET BRACELET SLIDE 23 - WISEWEAR SLIDE 24 - REUTERS/MIKE BLAKE SLIDE 25 - ZOZO/ZOZOSUIT SLIDE 26 - THE NEW YORK TIMES - "WE’RE ALL DRINKING DIET PRADA NOW" BY JONAH ENGEL BROMWICH (MARCH 2019) SLIDE 27 - HIGHSNOBIETY - OP-ED / "THE AGE OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS WILL KILL GREAT FASHION" BY EUGENE RABKIN (APRIL 2019) SLIDE 28 - VOGUE UK - "DIET PRADA HAS BEEN SENT BY JOAN RIVERS TO KEEP DOING HER WORK" - BY ALICE NEWBOLD (JUNE 2018) SLIDE 29 - VOGUE ITALIA - "DI LIBERTA CREATIVÀ E POLITICALLY CORRECT" - BY ANGELO FLACCAVENTO (MARCH 2019) SLIDE 30 - GLODI MIESSI SLIDE 31 - REINHART JULIAN SLIDE 32 - ERIK MCLEAN SLIDE 33 - MOTHERBOARD - "INSIDE THE BLACK MARKET FOR BOTS THAT UY DESIGNER CLOTHES BEFORE THEY SELL OUT" - BY JOSEPH COX (JUNE 2019) SLIDE 34 - IBRAHIM RIFATH SLIDE 35 - SERGE KUTUZOV SLIDE 36 - LUCAS GALLONE SLIDE 37 - LIANHAO QU 40 CREDITS_ October 2019 Welcome Summary Trends _The Black Box #2 Bonus Conclusion
  • 42. 42October 2019_The Black Box #2 All rights reserved. Futur404, its logo, and Not Found_Yet are trademarks of Futur404. This document is not intended to provide specific advice on your circumstances. If you require advice or further details on any matters referred to, please contact a Futur404 representative. This document makes descriptive reference to trademarks that may be owned by others. The use of such trademarks herein is not an assertion of ownership of such trademarks by Futur404 and is not intended to represent or imply the existence of an association between Futur404 and the lawful owners of such trademarks.
  • 43. allan@futur404.com noemie@futur404.com theblackbox@futur404.com futur404.com Station F - Parvis Alan Turing 75013 PARIS H2 2019 THEBLACKBOX_H22019 TRENDSSHAPINGFASHION&INNOVATION