The presentation contains brief explanation about the Emollients, its types with detailed examples. Brief classification of Rheological additives is also presented along with the applications in cosmeceuticals.

1. GUIDED BY:
Ms Ankita Patel
Ms Bijal Prajapati
Dept. of Pharmaceutics,
Parul Institute of Pharmacy
PREPARED BY:
Priya Mathuria
M.Pharm

2. CONTENTS
• Emollient
Introduction
Types of emollient
Agents used in emollient
Skin reaction
Safety measures
• Rheological additives
 Introduction
 Classification
 Application
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3. EMOLLIENT
• Emollients are medical moisturising
treatments applied directly to the skin to
soothe and hydrate it.
• They cover the skin with a protective film
to trap in moisture.
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REFERED: http://www.ouh.nhs.uk/patientguide/leaflets/files/120521emollients.pdf

4. 4
REFERED: https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1366&bih=693&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=U-
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5. • Emollients are often used to help manage dry,
itchy or scaly skin conditions such as eczema,
psoriasis and ichthyosis.
• They help prevent patches of inflammation and
flare-ups of these conditions.
• They help to repair the damaged natural barrier
of the skin, also protect from irritation and
infections and can reduce redness, swelling and
itching.
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6. TYPES OF EMOLLIENTS
• Emollients are available as:
CREAMS
SOAP SUBSTITUTES
OINTMENTS
LOTIONS
BATH ADDITIVES
SPRAY
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REFERED : https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/emollients/#types-of-
emollients

7. CREAMS
• These are not particularly greasy.
• They are absorbed quite quickly so do not stain clothes.
• They are good for daytime use.
• Examples: Diprobase cream Cetraben
Hydromol cream E45 cream
Oilatum cream Doublebase
Aveeno cream
Containing antibacterial: Dermol 500
Containing urea: Calmurid Hydromol extra
• Examples for shower(cleansing): Dermol shower, E45 Shower
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8. SOAP SUBSTITUTES
• Soap dries the skin and can make it itchy. Use soap
substitutes for all washing. These cleanse the skin
effectively BUT do not lather like soap.
• Many creams and ointments may be used as soap
substitutes.
• Examples:
Cetraben Diprobase cream
Wash E45 Emulsifying ointment
Hydromol ointment Epaderm.
Dermol 500 (which contains antibacterial)
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9. OINTMENTS
• These are greasy and are particularly useful for very dry or itchy
skin because they hydrate the skin better than creams.
• They do take longer to be absorbed and may make your clothes
greasy.
• Some people prefer to use these at night.
• Examples:
50% white soft paraffin in liquid paraffin (50/50 mix)
Epaderm
Hydromol
Emulsifying ointment
WARNING: Skin products containing white soft paraffin and
emulsifying ointment are easily ignited with a naked flame or a
cigarette.
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10. LOTIONS
• They are good for hairy or damaged areas of skin
(such as weeping eczema)
• They are thin and can spread easily
• But they're not very moisturising
• Example: Dermocalm lotion
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11. BATH ADDITIVES
• Bubbles (like soap) can irritate and dry skin. Emollient
bath additives should be added to the bath water to help
to moisturise your skin and leave a fine film on skin after
bathing.
• TAKE CARE as they will make the bath slippery.
• Examples:
Oilatum Bath E45
Balneum Hydromol
Diprobath Aveeno bath oil
With antimicrobials: Oilatum plus (with anti microbial)
Dermol 600
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12. SPRAY
• They are good for hard-to-reach areas
• They are also used for sore or infected skin that
shouldn't be touched
• They are quickly absorbed
• Example: Emollin 50:50 spray: A spray formulation
easier to apply
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13. AGENTS USED IN EMOLLIENTS
Lanolin and its derivatives
• Lanolin is a nautral wax
• It helps to maintain the epidermis in a normal
condition
• Its hydrophobic and adhesive character makes it
an excellent occlusive agent and a good emollient
• Lanolin derivatives are
o Lanolin alcohol
o Modified lanolins: Liquid lanolins
Esterified lanolin alcohol
Acetylated lanolin alcohol
Polyoxyalkylene lanolins
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REFERED: M .Vimaladevi : Textbook of Cosmetics; CBS Publishers &
Distributors; Page no. 31-38

14. STEROLS
• Cholesterol is the only sterol used
• It lessen the irritating and defatting action of
emollient
• It helps emollient to penetrate into the epidermis
and impart suppleness to skin
PHOSPHOLIPIDS
• They are complex fat soluble substance
• They act as an emollient
• Example: Lecitin, excellent emulsifier, emollient as
well as surfactant
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15. FATTY ACID
• Stearic acid is the only one of choice
• Its helps to retain consistency of the end product
FATTY ACID ESTERS
• They leave a thin oily film on the skin which is greasy
because of their oily and low viscocity characteristic
• Example: Butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate,
Isopropyl palmitate, polyesters (like glyceryl-
monostearate)
FATTY ALCOHOLS
• They produce occlusive films that help to induce
hydration of skin
• Example: Cetyl and stearyl alcohols
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16. SKIN REACTIONS
Emollients can sometimes cause a skin reaction, such as:
• An overheating, burning sensation or stinging that
doesn't settle after a few days of treatment – usually
caused by a reaction to a certain ingredient contained in
the emollient
• Blocked or inflamed hair follicles (folliculitis) that may
cause boils rashes on the face that can aggravate acne
• If you experience any of these symptoms, talk to your
doctor, nurse or pharmacist.
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REFERED: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/emollients/#types-of-
emollients

17. SAFETY MEASURES
Follow this general safety advice when using emollients:
• Keep away from fire, flames and cigarettes when using paraffin-
based emollients. Dressings and clothing soaked with the ointment can be
easily ignited.
• Use a clean spoon or spatula to remove emollients from a pot or
tub. This reduces the risk of infections from contaminated pots.
• Take care of slipping when using emollients in a bath or shower,
or on a tiled floor. Protect the floor with a non-slip mat, towel or sheet.
Wearing protective gloves, wash your bath or shower after with hot water
and washing up liquid, then dry with a kitchen towel.
• Never use more than the recommended amount of bath additive.
It may cause skin irritation if the concentration is too high, particularly
when used with antiseptic bath oils.
• Be careful of using aqueous cream. It can cause burning, stinging,
itching and redness for some people, especially children with atopic eczema.
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18. 18
TAKEN FROM: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdNPiW4ZULk

19. • Rheology is the science of flow.
• Every time a lotion is poured, a cream squeezed
from a tube or a lipstick applied, rheology is
involved.
• Even when products are at rest, it plays an
important part in controlling stability and
suspension.
• Understanding a formulation’s rheological needs
enables to create the best possible products
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20. • The rheology of a system is described in terms of
its viscosity
• Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as
the force applied by the resulting rate
• Shear stress is the force per unit area applied
and shear rate is the resulting velocity gradient
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21. • A material which maintains a constant viscosity, regardless of
shear rate, has Newtonian flow (Fig.2). Dilatant flow (Fig.2) is a
form where viscosity increases with shear, sometimes
encountered in highly pigmented/filled systems.
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22. • The rate of recovery of a system when stress is removed
is also very important. When a shear thinning system
shows delayed viscosity recovery, it is described as
thixotropic (Fig.3).
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23. • Pseudoplastic flow (Fig. 4), also known as shear thinning
behaviour, and typical of many commercial systems, is
when viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate.
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24. • Cosmetics experience shear rates varying from 0.001 s-1,
from gravitational forces; to over 20,000 s-1, when a cream
is spread or an aerosol antiperspirant sprayed (Fig 1)
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25. ELEMENTIS Specialties Rheological
Additives for Cosmetics
• ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives can be
broadly divided between aqueous-phase thickeners
and non-aqueous-phase thickeners.
• But it is important to remember the advantages of oil-
phase viscosity modification that can greatly improve
emulsion based products.
• ELEMENTIS Specialties additives for cosmetics are
based on naturally occurring materials: highly refined
and beneficiated hectorite clay or castor oil derivative
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26. 1. Aqueous-phase thickeners
Rheoluxe Associative Thickeners
• The Rheoluxe family of rheology modifiers are non-ionic
polymeric thickeners designed specifically for the personal
care market.
• Rheoluxe consists of urethane based and Polyether Polyol
based associative thickeners with superior performance in
difficult systems such as those containing high salt levels or
with extremes in pH.
• Due to its structure, Rheoluxe is soluble in water, but
associates with lipophilic materials to build viscosity.
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27. Associative thickeners – mechanism of action
• Associative thickeners increase the viscosity of
aqueous systems through a system of molecular
associations and interactions.
• The thickeners consist of water soluble polymeric
chains modified with hydrophobic caps.
• The hydrophobic caps of the polymer associate,
that is build a structured network with other
hydrophobes in the formula.
• This results in micelle type structures that form a
network resulting in significant viscosity build.
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28. 28

29. • The Rheoluxe range of products provides viscosity control
in all types of emulsion systems, creating an exceptional
sensory profile.
• Supplied as easy to handle solutions, Rheoluxe can be
added at any point in the production process.
• Rheoluxe is heat stable, although cold process systems are
possible
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30. HECTORITE
• Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering
several advantages. hectorite’s special
properties, compared with bentonite, are:
• lower iron content
• lighter colour
• higher swelling capacity
• greater gel strength
• no crystalline silica
• Due to its small size, platelet shape and large
surface area, hectorite is able to form strong,
stable viscous gels.
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31. BENTONE hydrophilic Clays
• BENTONE MA, EW, and LT rheological
additives provide thixotropy and suspension
control to the aqueous phase.
• BENTONE MA and EW additives form gels by
producing an open, 3-dimensional network of
the individual clay platelets as shown in Figure5
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32. • BENTONE LT forms a similar network, but it is
strengthened by the presence of a special
cellulose, greatly enhancing stability and
thickening characteristics.
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33. 2.Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives
• Surfactants can influence the rheological behaviour of
hydrophilic clays.
o Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated, can adsorb
onto the clay surface. This rarely causes problems either in flow
control or activity of the formulation.
o Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and weaken the
gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate or minimise any
problems can normally be found.
o Cationic surfactants interact strongly and should be avoided.
• Organic and silicone-based liquids used in oil and wax-based
cosmetics, and as the non-aqueous-phase in emulsions, benefit
greatly from ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives.
• Outstanding rheological properties are developed using
BENTONE organoclay rheological additives in their powder
form or, even better, with BENTONE GEL additives, their
predispersed forms.
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34. • ADVANTAGES
• thermostable viscosity control
• thixotropic flow
• suspension control of pigments and actives
• emulsion stabilisation
• silky skin feel
BENTONE organophilic Clays
• Hectorite is now reacted with special vegetable
quaternary ammonium salts to produce organoclays
able to thicken and gel organic liquids.
• The correct choice of BENTONE additive is
determined largely by the polarity of the system to
be thickened.
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35. • BENTONE organoclays
form thixotropic gels by
developing hydrogen
bond bridges between the
edges of adjacent platelets
as shown in Figure
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36. BENTONE GEL
• BENTONE GEL additives are optimally dispersed and activated
predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties organoclays.
• Benefits include:
• optimally dispersed
• high-shear dispersion not necessary
• no polar activation required
• easy to handle and use
• can be added at any appropriate and convenient stage in
manufacture
• A wide range of gels made from various cosmetics oils, esters and
solvents are available.
• The use of a BENTONE GEL enables to achieve the maximum
efficiency from the organoclay without the need for careful
shearing and activation.
• On the production scale, time is saved and the highest degree of
reproducibility attained, leading to potential cost savings.
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37. Thixcin R Rheological Additive
• For the highest degree of thixotropy in aliphatic
liquids, Thixcin R additive is the product to use.
• In addition to its effective rheological properties, it
gives water repellence, stabilises emulsions and acts
as a stiffening agent in lipsticks and ointments.
• It can also be used as a dry binder in pressed powder
systems.
• It is a castor oil derivative.
• It requires temperature-controlled activation within
the range 55-60°C (130-140°F) and high-shear
mixing to develop its full structure.
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38. APPLICATION
• Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant)
• maintain homogeneity in molten and setting
stages
• gain improved pay-out
• increase high-temperature integrity
• eliminate oil migration
• reduce “creasing” around lips and eyes
• Mascara
• improve film-build
• increase water-resistance
• eliminate oil migration
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39. • Emulsions
• elevate drop-point temperature of water-in-oil
creams
• eliminate syneresis
• improve emulsion stability
• enable cold-process emulsification
• create novel viscosity effects
• UV Sunscreen
• eliminate ultrafine Ti02 skin-whitening
problems
• enhance sun protection factor (SPF)
• optimise use of sunscreen actives
• reduce separation and settlement
39

40. • Antiperspirants aerosols
• uniform distribution of active ingredients
• soft and dry skin feel
• significant less whitening
• reduced separation and settlement
40
REFERED:
http://www.elementisspecialties.com/esweb/webprodliterature.nsf/allbydo
cid/3BCB996F45DEBB93852575FB004C77BA/$FILE/Rheology%20cosmet
ics%20brochure%20Dec-2013.pdf