Herbal lipsticks are gaining popularity due to being safer than synthetic lipsticks. They aim to enhance beauty with less toxicity. An ideal lipstick imparts uniform color, makes lips soft, is stable, and applies easily. Herbal lipsticks are formulated with natural pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients. They are tested for color consistency, melting point, breaking load, microbial contamination, and rancidity. Formulating herbal lipsticks involves color grinding, mixing, moulding, and packaging. The global herbal lipstick market is growing and several Indian brands offer herbal lipstick options.
2. Introduction
oLipsticks are used to impart an attractive colour & glossy moisture appearance to the lips.
oLipstick is a cosmetic product which contains pigments, oils, waxes & emollients that apply texture,
colour & protection to the lips
3. Why Do We Need Herbal
Lipsticks
Nowadays herbal cosmetics are gaining popularity, of course, because they’re safer than their synthetic counterparts. Synthetic ingredients
may cause allergies and often they are carcinogenic.
Herbal lipsticks aims to bring out the best of nature in enhancing a woman’s, beauty and confidence with less toxicities and side
Fun Fact-On an average a woman eats about 4-9 pounds of lipstick in her lifetime !!!!
4. Ideal properties of a lipstick
oIt should be nontoxic & nonirritant to the lips.
oIt should impart uniform color to the area of application.
oIt should make lips soft.
oIt should have stability towards environmental conditions.
oIt should completely free from grittiness
oThe container should operate easily.
5. Types of Lipsticks available in market
1. BALM TINTS- Lip care with a dash of color Balm tints are perfect for everyday wear at home, for college or for work. These balms
are usually available in a crayon form and leave your lips moist with natural-looking color. Some of the balms are also available with SPF
protection to keep your lips nourished.
2. MATTE BALMS : Goodness of balm with matte finish. They offer all the goodness of a balm with the coverage and color payoff of
a matte lipstick.
3. LIQUID MATTE LIPSTICKS : The moisturizing matte. This liquid lipstick is the newest additions which after a few minutes
of application, transform into a semi-matte to a matte finish on your lips.
6. 4. STAIN OR LIP TINTS: More color, less shine. Stain lipsticks are definitely easy to use if you want a lipstick which
lasts throughout the day. his low maintenance lipstick can be the best option for a super busy day
5. CREAMY LIPSTICK: A combo of texture and gloss! These lipsticks are effortless to apply with a gliding flow. They are
rich in oils and butter and therefore, are excellent for nourishing lips.
6. MATTE LIPSTICK: A sophisticated velvet finish. Matte lipsticks give your lips a pure color with a smooth and even
texture. These are contrary to sheer or glossy lipsticks which are all about a lustrous look.
7. 7. SATIN/SHEER LIPSTICK: A little shine and spark. Sheer lipsticks are the first choice of women
who love a little spark on their lips. These lipsticks are enriched with moisturizing oils so that your lips don’t
remain dry.
8.GLOSSY LIPSTICKS: The glamorous lustre! these lipsticks give a shiny, watery finish to your lips,
which is awesome for dry and thin lips. The luminosity factor is high in these lipsticks. The good part is that
they are deeply hydrating as well.
9. TRANSFER-RESISTANT LIPSTICKS: stays committed to your lips for long.
8. 10. NUDE LIPSTICKS: be’you’ tiful.
11. LACQUER LIPSTICKS: The word 'lacquer' essentially means to give something a smooth, glossy finish. Lacquers have a thick
and creamy consistency with an ultra glossy texture that will give your lips a sheen.
12. PEARL/FROST LIPSTICKS: best for the 90’s theme looks.
10. Colour Grinding- pigments & dyes are available as amorphous powders therefore, we need
to convert it to powder form with the help of roller mill & colloidal mill.
Mixing & melting- the raw materials like oils & waxes are melted in a separate stainless steel container.
Then the oil & waxes are mixed with colour pigments. Then the mixture is passed through roller mill
grinding the pigments to avoid grittiness. After the pigment mass is grounded & mixed it is added to hot
wax until uniform colour & consistency is observed.
Moulding- once the lipstick mass is mixed & free of air, it is ready to be poured in tubes. The molten mass is dispensed
into a mould, which has a bottom portion of metal & a shaping tube. Lipstick is poured upside down so that bottom of
the tube is at the top of the mould & excess material is scraped out. The lipstick is cooled & separated from the mould
& bottom of the tube is sealed. The lipstick is passed through a flame test to seal the pinholes & to give a finishing to
the product
Labelling & packaging- the lipstick is retracted & tube is capped. The lipstick is ready for
labelling & packaging
11. Theformula
Ingredients Importance of the ingredient
Bees wax Hard Wax (hardness)
Coconut oil Hard Wax (hardness)
Olive oil Soft Wax (for gloss)
Castor oil Blending Agent
Edible colouring matter from Beta vulgaris
& Curcuma longa
Colouring Agents
Vanilla essence Flavouring Agent
Lemon oil
Shikakai Powder
Rose oil
Anti-oxidant
Surfactant
Perfuming Agent
12. The Formula contd…..
• 1.Wax: Wax provides the structure to the solid lipstick. E.g. – bees wax, carnauba wax, coconut oil
• 2.Oil: It is the addition of oil that gives lipstick its shine and translucent effect. Oil also acts as a blender for
pigments
• 3.pigments & dyes: These are used in lipsticks to impart the desired color or shade to the lipstick.
• 4. Fragrance is used for imparting a pleasant scent to the lipstick and to mask the smell of other ingredients.
• 5. Preservatives and antioxidants are added to the lipstick to increase its shelf life and to prevent it from becoming
stale or rancid.
14. Evaluation Tests for Herbal
Lipsticks
.
Colour control: colour control test is done with the help of colorimeter equipment which gives a
numerical reading of the shade when mixed, so that it can identically match with the previous
batches
Determination of melting point: the lipstick base should have a melting point 60-75 degrees
Centigrade.
Breaking load test is used to find the value of maximum load a lipstick can withstand before it
breaks . The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to a number of weights hanging from it. The
weight at which it breaks is called its breaking load.
16. Microbial testing
• Contamination from raw materials, molds, storage kettles or lipstick container can lead to microbial
growth.
• The test consist of plating a known mass of the sample on two selected culture media specifically
suitable for the growth of bacteria fungi incubating them for a specified period to permit the
development of visual colonies for counting.
• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm
17. Rancidity
• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
• It leads to obnoxious odour, bad taste & sticky product & sometimes change of colour of the
product.
• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its peroxide number
18. •SOFTENING POINT:
A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to which it will subjected in the consumers handbag.
• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy to apply in the hot as in cold weather.
• Softening point range 50-550C.
• Method: Ring & Ball Method
19. Ring & ball method
• A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it.
• Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving a tablet of lipstick
fitted into the ring.
• This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.
• Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.
• A beaker containing 500 ml water a room temp. is placed on a hot plate having a magnetic
stirrer.
• A steel ball is delicately placed on the lipstick tablet.
• The bar is with support is then inserted into the beaker till it submerges into it.
• Heating & slow agitation is then begun.
• Temp is monitored using a thermometer. The temp at which the lipstick mass & steel balls are
loosened & falls to the bottom of the beaker is the Softening point
20.
21. Defects in the formulation of Lipstick
• FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
1. SWEATING: caused due to high oil content or inferior oil binding.
2. BLEEDING: separation of colored liquids from waxy bases.
3. BLOOMING: due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol.
4. STREAKING: expected to be caused due to titanium dioxide.
• MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
1. LADDERING: lipstick does not look smooth or homogenous.
2. DEFORMATION: noticeable in softer formulae.
3. CRATERING: shows up flaming when stick develops dimples.
22. Advantages of using Herbal
Lipsticks
• Since all the ingredients were derived from organic plants, the phytonutrients in them proved to be
effective.
• There was the elimination of the skin chapping or flaking.
• These lipsticks are generally formaldehyde-free and paraben-free due to which they do not cause any
irritation to the skin and are considerably safer to use.
• Exposure to carcinogenic components and other toxins got reduced by a big deal.
• Chemical accumulation was prevented and these did not have any side effects.
23. Globalmarket of herbal lipsticks
• The Global Natural and Organic Lipstick Market is expected to register a growth rate of 5.3%
during the forecast period. The market is expected to garner a value of approximately USD 1.4
billion by the end of 2024.
• Reference: https://www.marketresearchfuture.com/reports/natural-organic-lipsticks-market-3895
• https://www.statista.com/statistics/673641/global-market-value-for-natural-lipsticks/
24. Brands available in India
• Enn’s Closet Typhoon Enn Matte, Rs. 925
• Disguise Cosmetics Comfortable Satin Matte Lipstick In Burgundy Chef 03, Rs. 500
• Fae Beauty In Too Cheeky, Rs. 800
25. • SoulTree Lipstick In Cantaloupe, Rs 550
• Lotus Make-Up Ecostay Matte Lip Lacquer In Rose Bloom, Rs 725
27. THANK YOU
• An assignment on Industrial Pharmacy-II
• Made by- Priyansha Singh (roll no.-1738)
B.Pharm- 7th semester student
• Submitted to- Dr. Amita Sarwal
(Asst. Prof. Pharmaceutics- University Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, PU)