1. Sustainability of Textile Industry
[Type the document subtitle]
COURSE CODE: MGT-4027
COURSE TITLE: INDUSTRIAL COMPLIANCE & ISO CERTIFICATION
SUBMITTED TO:
NAZMUL HAQUE
LECTURER
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGG.
SUBMITTED BY:
Siful Islam Jony ID: 2013000400031
Mofizur Rahman Sazal ID: 2013000400036
MD. Mazadul Islam Ripon ID: 2013000400016
Moniruzzaman ID: 2013000400035
SUBMISSION DATE:
2. 1
Sustainability:
Sustainable Textiles
We put a lot of effort into our textiles, or human-made fabrics. Across the world and throughout history,
textiles have been the base of some of the most lucrative economies and networks of exchange in the world.
Ever heard of the Silk Road? Textiles are important, and it's not just because we need them to stay warm.
We enjoy our textiles. But, we want to be able to feel good about our textiles. Just as we want to make sure
that we are making responsible habits in the food products we purchase and consume, we need to be aware
of the impact of our role as economic consumers of textiles. In accordance with that agenda, many people in
the world are pushing for more sustainable textiles, or ethically produced fabrics. We may look good in our
textiles, but we want to feel good about them too.
Defining Sustainability
Sustainable living is becoming more and more of a concern in the 21st century, as the impacts of human
production and waste are becoming inescapably apparent. We apply this term to food production,
international trade, commercial industries, and now textiles. But, what exactly is sustainable living? The
goal of sustainability is the creation of cycles of behavior with the greatest long-term benefits for the
greatest number of people. There are three defining elements of this: economic, social, and environmental
Through the utilization of recycled material for the manufacturing of clothing, this provides an additional
realm of economic world profit. Sustainable Clothing will provide a new market for additional job
opportunities, continuous net flow of money in the economy, and the reduction of raw materials and virgin
resources. Source reduction or
reducing the use of raw materials
and virgin resources can
ultimately reduce carbon
emissions during the
manufacturing process as well as
the resources and carbon
emissions that are related to the
transportation process. This also
prevents the unsustainable usage
of extracting materials from the
Earth by making use of what has
already been used (i.e.
recycling).
The "three pillars" of sustainability bounded by the environment (earth, life)
3. 2
What constitutes a sustainable textile?
Broadly speaking, the answer lies in four main factors: raw material extraction, textile production, added
chemistry and end-of-life.
Raw material extraction for example, addresses the land and water used to grow natural fibers like cotton
and wool, or the impacts of extracting fossil fuels for synthetic fibers such as polyester or nylon.
Production considerations include the water and energy used for manufacturing, the impact of production
waste and a company's social responsibility towards its workers and the communities that surround its
production facilities. Added chemistries, including dyes, finishes and coatings, may impact the health of
textile workers as well as consumers of the final product.
Finally, the end-of-life scenario, including textile biodegradability and the reclamation infrastructure
required to turn it into new raw material, strongly affect its sustainability.
Goals of Sustainability
The sustainable development professional network thinks, acts and works globally. In 2012, the United
Nations Conference on Sustainable Development met to discuss and develop a set of goals to work towards;
they grew out of the Millennium Development Goals (MDG) that claimed success in reducing global
poverty while acknowledging there was still much more to do. The SDG eventually came up with a list of 17
items which included amongst other things:
The end of poverty and hunger
Better standards of education and healthcare - particularly as it pertains to water quality and better
sanitation
To achieve gender equality
Sustainable economic growth while promoting jobs and stronger economies
All of the above and more while tackling the effects of climate change, pollution and other
environmental factors that can harm and do harm people's health, livelihoods and lives.
Sustainability to include health of the land, air and sea
Finally, it acknowledged the concept of nature having certain rights - that people have stewardship of the
world and the importance of putting people at the forefront of solving the above global issues through
management of the environment and of consumption (for example, reducing packaging and discouraging
food waste as well as promoting the use of recyclable materials).
History of Sustainability
Humans have, since the Neolithic Agricultural Revolution and maybe even before then, been a consumer
rather than a replenished of environmental resources. From hunter-gatherer societies that moved into an area
to use up its resources in a season before setting up camp or moving on, only to return the following year to
do the same, the development of a surplus economy saw permanent settlements. Slash and burn farming
replaced natural wilderness often with uniform crop plantation and camps gave way to settlements, then
eventually villages, towns and cities which would put pressure on the environment.
4. 3
Sometimes, the environmental pressures forced people into making these changes in the first place (growing
human population being one of those pressures) and often eventually they had to move on to somewhere
new where the environmental could better sustain them and their practices, or make further changes to their
existing environment. There was no real concept of sustainable living, even if the people of the distant past
understood that soil had a maximum fertility that could be exhausted and replenished with livestock.
It is widely acknowledged that many societies collapsed due to an inability to adapt to the conditions
brought on by these unsustainable practices. Whether that was introducing alien species that upset the
balance of the ecosystem, cutting down too many trees at once or even a failure to adapt to natural
fluctuations in the climate, we are far more aware in the modern world about the potential damage caused by
human action. Cultural change often led to survival of those societies beyond what might have been
expected under the circumstances.
Though some Renaissance and Enlightenment philosophers would express concern about resources and
over-population and whether these were sustainable in the long term, these people were not taken seriously
at the time other than as a hypothetical question. It would take until the 20th century before we would
understand the impact that we could have on our environment. Environmental damage, pollution,
destabilising soils by cutting down trees, fossil fuels and other environmental issues led to a growing
concern about the environment and whether we were or could damage our own ecosystem. The United
Nations was founded after World War II and in 1945, UNESCO was established to promote the importance
of human culture and of science. Today, their remit is "to contribute to the building of peace, the eradication
of poverty, sustainable development and intercultural dialogue through education, the sciences, culture,
communication and information".
By the late 20th century, the science of climate change was firmly established. We knew by the 1980s about
the problems of the greenhouse effect and the destruction of the ozone layer and coming very late in the
century, an awareness of the notion that some of our resources - particularly fossil fuels - were finite and that
we should make efforts to move to renewable methods of power. It was then that we saw the social,
economic and scientific birth of the environmental movement.
Sustainable Materials
Let's talk more about these ideas as they pertain specifically to textiles. Sustainable textiles begin with
sustainable materials. Many of our modern textiles are created using synthetic textiles. Many people don't
realize this, but most synthetic materials are actually developed using petroleum. Petroleum based fibers
include polyester, nylon, and spandex. Anything relying on petroleum, which is naturally limited in quantity
and inherently extractive, is not sustainable.
Natural materials tend to be much more sustainable. However, some materials are more sustainable than
others. Hemp, bamboo, and soy are sturdy, versatile plants with minimal environmental impact. Sheep have
a lower environmental impact than goats.
However, this is where we need to consider the other elements of sustainability as well. Cotton is not as
environmentally friendly as hemp, but is much softer. Cashmere comes from goat wool, not sheep wool. So,
to make sure that textiles are economically sustainable, we need to learn to produce them in sustainable
ways. One major way to do this is to reduce the use of pesticides. Integrated Pest Management systems
involve using non-chemical methods to protect plants like cotton. Ladybugs and other predatory insects can
be used to eliminate harmful pests, and even some plants naturally repel insects and rodents.
5. 4
Material Patterns:
Considering the Economic, Environmental, and Social Impacts of the Global textile industry:
Economic Development
This is the issue that proves the most problematic as most people disagree on political ideology what is and
is not economically sound, and how it will affect businesses and by extension, jobs and employability. It is
also about providing incentives for businesses and other organisations to adhere to sustainability guidelines
beyond their normal legislative requirements. Also, to encourage and foster incentives for the average
person to do their bit where and when they can; one person can rarely achieve much, but taken as a group,
effects in some areas are cumulative. The supply and demand market is consumerist in nature and modern
life requires a lot of resources every single day; for the sake of the environment, getting what we consume
under control is the paramount issue. Economic development is about giving people what they want without
compromising quality of life, especially in the developing world, and reducing the financial burden and “red
tape” of doing the right thing.
Social Development
“Apparel production is a springboard for national development, and often is the typical starter industry
for countries engaged in export‐oriented industrialization.”
The low barriers to entry that make textile and apparel production so pervasive also make scoping and
quantifying its full social impact nearly impossible. However, even conservative estimates suggest that
this industry directly employs more than 40 million people worldwide. In some developing countries, the
textiles and apparel industries are a particularly important source of manufacturing employment, which
is often associated with lifting individuals out of poverty. Key examples of this include Cambodia
(80.1%), Mauritius (72.8%), Sri Lanka (49.2%), Bangladesh (35%), Pakistan (42.9%), and Madagascar
(45%). (McNamara 2008) The derivative effects of this scale of employment are clearly immense. The
government of India has estimated that every direct textile industry job means another 1.2 jobs in allied
industries.
The societal impact of this kind of work cannot be understated. In a detailed study of the textiles
Industry in Madagascar, Alessandro Nicita and Susan Razzaz (World Bank) found that moving from
Inconsistent, subsistence, or marginal employment to a job within the textiles and apparel production
Industry would increase an individual’s purchasing power by 24% on average – a change sufficient to lift
them out of poverty.
Environmental Protection
Textile processing industry is characterized not only by the large volume of water required for various unit
operations but also by the variety of chemicals used for various processes. There is a long sequence of wet
processing stages requiring inputs of water, chemical and energy and generating wastes at each stage. The
other feature of this industry, which is a backbone of fashion garment, is large variation in demand of type,
pattern and colour combination of fabric resulting into significant fluctuation in waste generation volume
and load. Textile processing generates many waste streams, including liquid, gaseous and solid wastes, some
of which may be hazardous. The nature of the waste generated depends on the type of textile facility, the
processes and technologies being operated, and the types of fibres and chemicals used. The overview on the
amounts of waste generated within the textile processes are summarized in.
6. 5
Textile industry overview
The textile industry is a significant contributor to many national economies, encompassing both small and
large-scale operations worldwide. In terms of its output or production and employment, the textile industry
is one of the largest industries in the world.
The textile manufacturing process is characterized by the high consumption
of resources like water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process
sequence that generates a significant amount of waste. The common practices
of low process efficiency result in substantial wastage of resources and a
severe damage to the environment. The main environmental problems
associated with textile industry are typically those associated with water body
pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluents. Other environmental
issues of equal importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic
Compounds (VOC)’s and excessive noise or odour as well as workspace
safty.
7. 6
Process flow elements sustainability Risks:
The Latest in Sustainable Textiles:
We economize on our driving by using shared resources, or we bike to work, or walk to save on our carbon
footprint. We reduce our energy usage where we can by buying appliances that conserve water and
electricity and we lobby for energy-smart concepts like solar or wind energy production. And yet, one of the
world’s greatest culprits in environmental pollution is something we use every day and probably give the
least consideration to its environmental impact: our clothes.
Conventional textile production is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. The World Bank
estimates that the textile industry is responsible for as much as 20 percent of industrial pollution in our rivers
and land. Finding ways to curb the environmental pollution caused by textile production starts with finding
new ways to produce fabrics that don’t require toxins and large amounts of water, and which minimize harm
to local the ecology. “We use low-impact dyes and we follow all fair-trade guidelines for our employees,”
explains Schwab. That ethical criterion even extends to their supply chain. “We go out of our way to make
8. 7
sure that anyone who is connected with our company has fair working conditions and pays an above average
wage.” Synergy also donates a portion of its proceeds to “nonprofits working on environmental or social
justice and educational activities.”
The materials Synergy uses represent only a few of the sustainable textile choices on the market these days,
although they are among the more favored by consumers. The following is a brief list to highlight some of
the differences between sustainable and conventional textile production methods.
Organic Cotton
As the name implies, organic cotton is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Textiles made of
organic cotton require less water to manufacture than conventional cotton textiles and are often more
comfortable.
For the consumer, the advantages are obvious, says Schwab. “It is softer [and] it feels better on the skin. The
skin is your largest organ, so you are not absorbing the chemicals.”
Organic cotton requires specialized equipment that allows the cotton to be harvested easily without
conventional methods. Some fair trade cooperatives don’t advertise organic cotton, but still strive for a
sustainable, humanely produced product. Still, the use of third-party certification, such as used by Mata
Traders, that supports worker cooperatives and non-toxic dyes have their own sustainability value.
Silk
Silk is produced by moths, and conventional methods destroy the moth and cocoon in the process.
Sustainable products, such as Ahimsa silk, use methods that don’t kill the moth pupa. Eco-friendly silk is
produced primarily in India, North Asia and Africa.
Like organic cotton, “green” silk is often softer because it lacks the harsh dyes that are common in
conventional silk production. There are a variety of types of sustainable silk, each with their own unique
colors and characteristics. The most common is produced by a creamy white-colored silk worm that is found
on the mulberry tree in India. The Ethical Silk Company, based out of Ireland, specializes in products made
from this delicate weave. Tussur silk, also from India and Mopani silk, from Africa, are darker, rich-
colored silks.
Hemp
Popular lore places this versatile plant in the category of marijuana. While it is technically a member of the
cannabis family, its textile use is less controversial (and a lot less psychoactive). Its true benefits can be
found in its durability and ruggedness, although as a fabric, hemp is surprisingly comfortable to wear. It also
blends nicely with other lighter materials like cotton and silk. It is a fast-growing plant that is easily
managed, can be grown organically and used for everything from clothing and nutritious food to paper and
building materials.
Few textile companies use hemp right now, but that is likely to change with the passage of the latest Farm
Bill, which contained a provision to legalize hemp farming. Nine states have already passed laws supporting
its cultivation.
9. 8
Bamboo
Bamboo is used quite differently today than in early Chinese culture, when it was used as a source for shoes
and corsets. Today, weavers blend it with other fabrics through complex processes that soften the fabric.
There are two ways that bamboo can be used to produce fabric. The first involves pulverizing the woody
fiber until it can be combed and spun into a yarn. It is a labor-intensive process that makes the end linen
product more expensive.
The second way involves solvents that break down the fibers and create a viscose bamboo solution that is
eventually hardened and spun into fibers. Techniques can vary, and not all manufacturers use sustainable
methods to break down the fibers.
So why is bamboo considered a sustainable source for textiles? In a word: adaptability. It is an extremely
fast growing plant that doesn’t need to be replanted each year, doesn’t require massive amounts of pesticides
and is a great air cleaner for global warming concerns. As Schwab points out, the advent of cultivated
bamboo plantations that negate the demand for clear-cut forest harvesting has made bamboo a worthwhile
choice for some textiles.
Wool
The versatility and popularity of wool dates back thousands of years and can be found wherever sheep have
been cultivated. It’s been used as a source for clothing in both cold and warm climates, although it gains its
fame in part from its insulating properties in chilly, windy environment of the British Isles. Because of its
natural ability to wick away moisture, it’s a favorite fabric during the winter. It is also used for summer
throws and light blankets.
Sustainable wool is harvested from sheep that are raised in humane conditions. Research shows that
adequate living conditions and reduced stress results in less disease and a better agricultural product.
Organically raised sheep have been shown to have better immune systems that can withstand the parasites
and diseases that commonly plague conventionally raised animals.
Wool is naturally hypoallergenic, and many people who have allergy sensitivities find that organic wool,
which is void of chemical dyes, soaps and residues, are a comfortable fabric for year-round apparel. The
U.S.-based apparel company Appalachia specializes in unique organic wool products.
New Trends
Newer trends that present exciting opportunities for textiles, says Schwab, include ocean products like
seaweed, which have so far only been used by those who can afford to invest and promote its textile
production. Hemp blends are another area that has value, particularly if hemp production does take off in the
U.S. “I think there could be thousands of new materials that could come out in blends,” says Schwab, who
admits that affordable production of hemp or seaweed needs larger companies to invest first, increase
availability and “help bring the price down.” Doing so “makes it practical” for smaller manufacturers when
there is increased demand and production. And it makes it affordable for the consumer to support
sustainable products. “If the mainstream companies would devote 1 percent to sustainability, we could
change the whole industry,” says Schwab.
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Conclusion:
In total, the global textile industry does not operate environmentally friendly and sustainably right now.
However, there are numerous starting points to improve the sustainability. Modern chemistry will be an
essential component on this path. Cleaner production is an attractive approach to tackle environmental
problems associated with industrial production and poor material efficiency. Since the cleaner production
approach has been successfully implemented in some areas in the textile sector, it shows that significant
financial saving and environmental improvements can be made by relatively low-cost and straightforward
interventions. This improves the quality of products and minimizes the cost of production, enabling the
branch to compete in the global market. Moreover, Cleaner Production also improves the company’s public
image by highlighting the steps it has taken to protect the environment.