1. Bangladesh University of Textiles
(BUTex) 1
ON
The assignment On Modern Processes
of Denim Apparel Manufacturing
s
2. Subject: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing
Subject Code: 551
Topics: Modern Processes of Denim Apparel
Manufacturing
Submitted To :
Dr. Md. Mashiur
Rahman Khan
Head of the Dept. of
AME
Submitted By :
Rishad Ahmed
ID: 2014-2-4-007
3. Denim is a kind of a clothing which is noted for
their strength and comfort. They have been worn
by sailors and gold miners as sturdy work pants,
by the young as a statement of their generation,
and by the fashionable, who are conscious of the
prestige conveyed by designer names.
Denim cloth itself has an unusual history. The
name comes from serge de Nimes, or the serge of
Nimes, France. Originally, it was strong material
made from wool. By the 1700s, it was made from
wool and cotton.
4. Yarn Manufacturing
Yarn Dyeing
Weaving
Fabric mercerization
Cutting and sewing
Washing
Finishing
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Generally denim garments are made from cotton fabric
extracted from coarser count cotton yarn. But in recent
trend, polymerized yarn such as spandex or polyesters
are also using to give stretch and comfort to wearer.
Denim yarn composition may be either 100% cotton or
98% cotton+ 2% spandex..
6. Denim fabric mainly Yarn dyed fabric where only warp yarns
are dyed with vat dye where Indigo is used as dye. With the
process of oxidization using airflow indigo set in yarn to
give its blue cast. Also sulfur dyes and disperse dyes are
used.
denim is usually dyed with chemically synthesized indigo
before being woven. Large balls of yarn, called ball warps,
are dipped in the indigo mixture several times so that the
dye covers the yarn in layers. (These many layers of indigo
dye explain why blue jeans fade slightly with each
washing.) it is known that a small amount of sulfur is often
used to stabilize the top or bottom layers of indigo dye.
The dyed yarn is then slashed; that is, it is coated with sizing
(starchy substances) to make the threads stronger and
stiffer. Once this operation is complete, the yarn threads are
ready to weave with un dyed weft yarn threads.
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8. The yarn is weave on large mechanical looms. Denim
is not 100 percent blue, as the blue dyed threads
forming the warp (long, vertical threads) are combined
with white threads forming the weft (shorter,
horizontal threads). As denim is warp faced twill
fabric it shows indigo in face & white in back weft
Denim fabric is about 10-13 oz depending upon
coarseness of fabric
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9. RHT Twill LHT Twill Warp & Weft Facing
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10. Bangladesh University of Textiles
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At this point the denim fabric is ready for
finishing, a term referring to a variety of
treatments applied to cloth after it is woven.
With denim, finishing is usually fairly simple.
The cloth is brushed to remove loose threads
and lint, and the denim is usually skewed in a
way that will prevent it from twisting when it
is made into clothing. The denim may then
be sanforized, or preshrunk. Preshrunk denim
should shrink no more than three percent after
three washings.
11. Once the desired design is
selected, patterns from the
design are cut from heavy
paper or cardboard. The pieces
of denim are then cut with
high speed cutting machines
from stacks 100 layers thick.
Excluding rivets, buttons, and
zippers, a pair of blue jeans
contains about ten different
pieces, from the pockets to the
leg panels to the waistband
and belt loops. Automatic
cutting tools using CAD is
used to increase marker
efficiency
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13. Serial
No
Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine
1 Back Pocket Rolling 2 Needle Machine 1
2 Marking Table
3 Back Yoke Joining in Folder System Feed of the Arm m/c 1
4 Back Rise Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1
5 Back Rise Top Feed of the Arm m/c 1
6 Back Pocket Positioning on Marker
Table
7 Back Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1
8 ¼” Stitch on Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1
Back part Joining:
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14. SL.
no Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine
1 Pocket Matching
2 Ironing
3 Coin Pocket Attaching 2 Needle m/c 1
4 Label Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1
5 Coin Pocket Attaching with Front Facing Plain Stitch m/c 1
6 Number Match with Front Part
7 Coin Pocket Joining with Front Part Plain Stitch m/c 2
8 Front Pocket Rolling 2 Needle m/c 1
9 Pocket Tuck Plain Stitch m/c 1
10 Pocketing Over Lock Over Lock m/c 1
11 Single Fly Join with Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 1
12 Pocket ¼” Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 1
13 Front Pocket with Front Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 1
14 Zipper Joining 2 Needle m/c 1
15 J – Stitch 2 Needle m/c 1
16 Double Fly Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1
17 Front Rise Stitch 2 Needle m/c 1
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15. SL. Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine
1 Back & Front Part Match on Table
2 In Seam Plain Stitch m/c 1
3 Top Seam on In Seam Feed of the Arm m/c 1
4 Side Seam Over Lock m/c 2
5 Hemming Plain Stitch m/c 1
6 Waist Belt Matching by Number
7 Waist Belt Sewing KANSAI 2
8 Edge Neatening of Down Part of the Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2
9 Waist Top Part Making
10 Waist Top Part Edge Neatening Plain Stitch m/c 2
11 Checking by LQC
12 Belt Loop Matching
13 Loop Tuck on Down Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2
14 Loop Joining with Top Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 2
15 Final Inspection
16 Loop & Back Part Bar Tacking Bar Tack m/c 2
17 Side Pocket Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 1
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21. The process of cloth making involves treating the
fabric with a number of chemicals in order to produce
clothing with such desirable characteristics such as
durability, colorfastness, and comfort. Each step of
finishing the cotton fabric (dyeing, sanforizing, etc.)
produces byproducts, most of which are
biodegradable.
Byproducts of denim manufacture include organic
pollutants, such as Starch and dye, which can be
treated through biological methods. These organic
wastes may not be dumped into streams or lakes
because of their high Bio chemical Oxygen demand.
To decompose, such waste materials utilize so much
oxygen that the life forms in the body of water would
be denied the oxygen necessary for survival.
Denim manufacturers process their own wastes in
compliance with all relevant government regulations.
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22. Offer Sample
Sample showcase
Sample selection
Buyer’s speck sheet
Prototype pattern
Sample for approval
(If ok)
Production Pattern
Bulk Production (Garment making)
Inspection
Packing Shipment
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23. FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEM
Size of defects Penalty
3 inches or less 1 point
Over three inch but
not 6 inch
2 point
Over 6 inch but not
9 inch
3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
Defect Pts /100 square meter = (Total
penalty point * 36*100)/
(fabric width in inch *fabric length
in yards)
ANANTA maintains P.P to be
approved at 28/lot & 24/consignment
to achieve higher quality
Scope of quality control, quality
assurance & testing
a. Testing Lab
b. Research & development(R&D)
In Apparel section, Quality Control:
a) In Marker making
b) In Spreading section
c) In Cutting section
d) In Sewing section
e) In Pressing & Finishing section
Fabric inspection
24. PREMIUM BUYER:
C&A
GAP
BESTSELLER
H&M ETC.
MARKETING STRATEGY
I ) Market search
ii) Market development
iii) Customer’s motivation
iv) Production follow up
v) Technical assistance of customer
Again
Ø To prepare cost sheet by dealing with
the buyer.
Ø To take different steps by discussing
with the high officials & merchandisers
Ø To maintain a regular & good relations
hip between commercial officer &
merchandisers
Ø To maintain a communication with the
buyers and buying houses
Ø Communicate with better criteria of
the products
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25. Respected Teacher & mates Present Here
&
Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan
Head of the Dept. of AME
,
Department of Apparel manufacturing Engineering.
Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex}.