The document discusses the importance of conservation and restoration of period woodwork. It provides examples of case studies that illustrate how to identify original architectural woodwork, understand patina, and prepare and finish woodwork properly. The case studies demonstrate both appropriate and inappropriate techniques, such as using solvent strippers versus caustic strippers for preparation. The document emphasizes preserving history and heritage through following best practices like using sympathetic cleaning methods and reversible materials and techniques.
2. What we are going to talk about
• The importance of conservation and restoration
• Conservation and restoration of period woodwork
• Case studies will be used to illustrate how to;
• Identify original architectural woodwork
• Understand the importance of Patina
• Prepare the woodwork for refinishing
• Identify and apply the correct finish to woodwork
• Materials and techniques you can use - and those you must avoid!
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3. What is the difference between conservation and
restoration?
Conservation
To preserve against
further deterioration
Restoration
To restore the original
appearance and
functionality
- without erasing history!
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4. Why is conservation and restoration so important?
History Heritage Identity
We can’t rewrite our history
Our heritage is our unique identity and needs to be preserved
How do we safeguard our heritage?
Unified policy
Wider education
Sharing best practice
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5. Identifying what you see and making the right decision
What is the
purpose of
the
woodwork?
What type
of finish is
required - if
any?
Aesthetic
Interior doors, panelling,
mouldings, rails and furniture
Durability
Exterior doors, windows, floors
and staircases
Aesthetic
Preparation will be gentle
by hand
Finish will be softer;
Shellacs,Waxes and Oils
Durability
Preparation can be more
vigorous
Finish will be harder;
Varnishes and Lacquers
QUESTION QUESTIONANSWER
ANSWER ANSWER
ANSWER
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6. Late 19th century exterior oak doors coated with a thick modern
exterior lacquer
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16. An example of over cleaning a17th century staircase
caustic soda
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17. Preparation
How to safely prepare a wood surface
Solvent Strippers
A traditional stripper still used in
period woodwork restoration
today
Removes finishes gradually without
damaging the surface
No discolouration
Patina can be partially preserved
with care
A finer cleaner finish
Prevents irreversible damage
Time consuming and costly
Caustic Strippers
NEVER used in period woodwork
restoration
Main ingredient sodium or
potassium hydroxide - stains the
wood surface by reacting with the
natural acids
Staining permanently masks all
original patina
Dissolves glues and weakens joints
Eco Strippers
A modern stripper used in period
woodwork restoration today
Removes finishes gradually without
damaging the surface
No discolouration
Patina can be preserved with care
A finer cleaner finish
Prevents irreversible damage
Time consuming and costly
Methylated Spirits
A modern stripper used in period
woodwork restoration today
Removes finishes gradually without
damaging the surface
No discolouration
Patina is preserved
A finer cleaner finish
Prevents irreversible damage
Time consuming and costly
Reviver Solutions
& Detergents
A modern stripper used in period
woodwork restoration today
Removes finishes gradually without
damaging the surface
No discolouration
Patina is preserved
A finer cleaner finish
Prevents irreversible damage
Time consuming and costly
CLEANING STRIPPING
ONLY USE WHEN REVIVER SOLUTIONS,
DETERGENTS AND METHYLATED SPIRITS ARE NOT
STRONG ENOUGH
NEVER USE ON PERIOD
WOODWORK
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18. Late17th century oak paneling painted with lead based paints
at the turn of the century
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21. Materials and Techniques
What to use and how to use it - and what to avoid
Materials
Preparations:
Reviver solutions & Detergents
Methylated Spirits
Finishes:
ConservationVarnish
French Polishes
Oils
Shellacs
Water Lacquers
Waxes
New timber for old repairs
Techniques
Hand cleaning with suitable
preparations
Blunt hand held scrappers
Fine wire wools
Stiff brushes
Ultra fine sand paper
- only to be used in very specific instances
Hot air gun
- with extreme caution
SUITABLE NOT SUITABLE
Materials
Preparations:
Caustic strippers
Coarse sand paper
Finishes:
PolyurethaneVarnish
Marine Paints
MarineVarnishes
Screw and nails to repair joints
Irreversible glues to repair joints
Techniques
Sand blasting
Sanding below 150 grit
- unless extenuating circumstances
Blow lamps
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22. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century solid oak floor
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23. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor
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24. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor
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25. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor
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26. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor
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27. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of late 18th century oak floor – a repair
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28. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of a late 18th century oak floor – applying the correct
finish by hand
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29. New timber for old repairs
New timber for old repairs
Restoration of late 18th century oak floor – fully restored
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30. Sandpaper
What really happens when coarse sandpaper is used on wood?
Example of how polish ‘pools’ in the grooves made by
the sandpaper scoring the surface of
the wood
Example of how polish is displaced evenly across the
surface of wood that has been sympathetically cleaned
back and stripped
by hand
Wood Surface
POLISH
Wood Surface
Sanding causes damage the fibre in the wood
The surface becomes rough to the touch
Absorbency factor of the wood is increased significantly
As a result polish applied will cause the fibres to expand - resulting in an uneven finish
This is called ‘furring the grain’
The original patina is permanently lost
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31. Sandblasting
What happens when a sand blasting machine is used on wood?
Advantages
of sandblasting
What sandblasting
really does
Quick
Cheap
Natural character
destroyed
Quality destroyed
Patina destroyed
Mouldings and details
destroyed
Fibers are damaged
Pitted surface that cannot
be cleaned
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32. An unfortunate example of the costly devastation that sand
blasting causes
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33. An unfortunate example of the costly devastation that
sand blasting causes – continued!
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36. Stains
Different types of stains and how to use them correctly
Soluble when mixed
with methylated spirits
Light fast
Typically used for
general colour change
Suitable for use on all
wood surfaces
Methanol Stains Nitro Stains Water StainsSpirit StainsFumesEarth PigmentsOil Stains
Soluble when mixed
with turpentine or
thinners
Can be used to colour
polishes applied with
a spray gun
Slightly more aggressive
than methanol based
stains
Soluble when mixed
with turpentine
Widely used in all
manner of staining
Ideal for use as a ‘base
colour’ - a milds stain
that provides an even
base colour over which
a main colour can be
built
Naturally occurring
minerals
- mostly iron oxides
E.g. Ochre, Umber,
Sienna
Used since prehistoric
times - cave paintings
Used to produce a
‘blind’ to block grain
Raises the grain
Bichromate of potash
Potassium
permanganate
Ammonia
Nitric acid
Staining of wood is
caused by a chemical
reaction with the wood
Used on woods prone
to uneven natural
colouring
E.g. Pine
Soluble when mixed
with methylated spirits
Quick to dry
Can be mixed with
shellac based polishes
to provide colour
Probe to fading
Soluble when mixed
with water
Produces the best
quality colours
Slow to dry
Can NOT be used with
unsealed wood - it will
‘fur’ and raise the grain
Ideal for use on antique
wood with good patina
Professional use only
NON AGGRESSIVE AGGRESSIVE
VERY
AGGRESSIVE
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37. Finishes
Different types of finish and how to use them
Soluble when mixed
with turpentine
Typically used as a
‘barrier’ to preserve the
surface of the wood
from the final finish
being applied
Conservation
Varnish
Waxes Oils
Water
Lacquers
Shellac
Polishes
French
Polishes
Soluble when mixed
with turpentine
Can be used on
interior woodwork that
does not need re-
polishing
Applied as a final step
to all manner of
finishes for it’s silky
appearance
Soluble when mixed
with methylated spirits
Widely used for all
types of interior
woodwork
Can be applied in thin
coats - low build
Not suitable for hard
wearing surfaces that
require a durable finish
E.g. floors
Applied by hand with a
‘Rubber’ - cotton wool
wrapped in a cotton
sheet
Boiled Linseed Oil:
Soluble when mixed
with turpentine
Widely used for all
types of interior
woodwork
Slow to dry - up to 1
week per coat
Flooring Oil:
Quick to dry
Tough and durable -
high build
REVERSIBILITY EXCELLENT
Soluble when mixed
with methylated spirits
Widely used for all
types of interior
woodwork
Can be applied in thin
coats - low build
Not suitable for hard
wearing surfaces that
require a durable finish
E.g. floors
REVERSIBILITY GOOD
Soluble when mixed
with water
Widely used for floor
finishing -
Tough and durable -
high build
REVERSIBILITY OK
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38. Important things to remember . . .
1. Conservation of the remaining original woodwork
2. Conservation of any original patina
3. Sympathetic cleaning methods
4. Reversibility of methods and the correct materials to use
5. Never use a sandblaster!
6. ALWAYS consult a professional conservator restorer!
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39. Sharing best practice starts with you
English
Heritage
PM
Contractor
Architect
Local
Authority
Restorer
Surveyor
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40. Questions . . .
Vincent Reed Ltd
Little Washbrook Farm
Brighton Road
Hurstpierpoint
West Sussex
BN6 9EF
Tel: 01273 833 869 / 07815 751 005
email: info@vincentreed.com
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41. Some recommended ‘light’ reading . .
• The Elements of Style: A Practical Encyclopedia of Interior Architectural Details, from 1485 to the Present
• Stephen Calloway (Editor), Elizabeth Cromley (Editor)
• Period House Fixtures and Fittings 1300-1900 (England's Living History) [Paperback]
• Linda Hall (Author)
• The Victorian House Explained (England's Living History) [Paperback]
• Trevor Yorke (Author)
• Three Centuries of Architectural Craftsmanship (Library of Period Detailing) [Paperback]
• C AMERY (Author)
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