1. R e e n a A h l u w a l i a
Going
Beyond
Boundaries
Wearing the mantle of a
celebrity jewellery designer is
generally not easy. But it is a
breeze for Reena Ahluwalia, who
takes up challenges as easily as
her next breath. She reveals how
she goes about making distinctive
masterpieces and talks about her
amazing journey into the world
of jewellery that began
16 years ago.
By Shanoo Bijlani
Cosmic
Marvel‘Stars of Africa’ 18 karat
white gold and diamond
orbital pendant by
Reena Ahluwalia for
Royal Asscher.
Hypnotic
SpellRhodium-plated sterling
silver pendant with black
enamel and floating
diamonds from the
‘Shining Stars’ collection
by Reena Ahluwalia for
Royal Asscher.
RoyalAsscher
52 india’s first Luxury jewellery magazine november-december 2011

2. 53india’s first Luxury jewellery magazine november-december 2011
ame follows her
every step as she scripts her path
to stardom in the world of gems
and jewellery. Sought after by the
likes of renowned jewellery brand
Royal Asscher1
to design its Stars of
Africa2
collection, this India-born
Canadian artist’s work has even
been featured on a Belgian postage
stamp. Her 101-carat diamond jewel
‘Bel Canto’ was featured in a special
five-stamp collection entitled
“Antverpia 2010” by the Belgian
Postal Service to highlight Antwerp
as a celebrated diamond centre.
Even the late iconic British
fashion designer Alexander
McQueen didn’t fail to notice her
as he showcased one of her award-
winning pieces in his Spring/
Summer 2000 collection-debut in
New York.
In February 2009, her specially
designed diamond settings were
installed in the Legislative Mace
of Ontario, Canada. Reena was
invited to design the settings for
the first two diamonds mined from
the Victor Mine – Ontario’s first
f
Creative Charisma

3. diamond mine owned by De Beers3
.
These diamonds were set in the
Mace of Ontario, a sceptre-like
object that held a symbolic place in
the regalia of the British Parliament
during the 14th century.
She has won so many national and
international awards and honours
that she has long stopped counting.
Virtuoso at Work
Reena wears her laurels with a casual
air.Yes, she does feel honoured
and thrilled when she is invited to
collaborate with the likes of Royal
Asscher, but fame is just a by-product
of her hard work. For her, what is
imperative is the cut of the gemstone
and cutting-edge design.
Showy strokes, fluid forms, edgy
and innovative concepts, and
perfect finish coalesce to form
superlative and chic jewels.The
first-generation jewellery designer
loves to tell stories through her
flawless and unparalleled designs.
“My stories can take different turns,
shapes and colours, unexpected or
expected.These concepts are based
on my experiences, ideas that are
abstract or otherwise, prompted by
things I observe and recall.”
And what inspires her?
“Inspiration can come from
anywhere. It stays in my head and
over time, becomes an occupation
of my mind. Fluidity of the natural
world; geometry in things I see
around; cultural and visual cues
that I take from my travels, art,
architecture, machinery, poetry,
fashion or history... anything can
inspire me. I always record my
thoughts in the form of notes,
research and preliminary drawings.
I revisit these and compile my
thoughts based on what speaks
to me and makes an immediate
emotional connection. By this point
I fairly know what I want to say,
what story I have in my mind, and
how I would like to tell it through
my jewels.
“I continue to explore by
manually making detailed multiple
technical drawings of the pieces to
fine-tune the forms, mechanisms
and its emotional appeal. It is
imperative for me and I am good
at drawing as well.Then I finalise
pieces that best convey the story
that I have in mind.Then, the
drawing goes to CAD, for 3D
rendering, and the piece is honed
in the workshop and crafted with
utmost care. Once ready, I test
the pieces for quality, feel and
functionality.”
Reena single-handedly creates all
her pieces and loves the process of
jewellery making.“Preoccupation
with the materials and processes are
very important to the way I work.”
RoyalAsscher
Ringed!(From top) Rhodium-plated sterling sil-
ver dome-shaped ring beautified with
white enamel and floating-diamonds;
18 karat rose-plated sterling silver
featuring floating-diamonds and black
enamel; and rhodium-plated sterling
silver, floating-diamonds and flared
out design in black enamel. All rings
are from the ‘Shining Stars’ collection
by Reena Ahluwalia for Royal Asscher.
Yellow
BeautyA four carat fancy yellow cushion cut
yellow diamond is surrounded by 2.21
carat colourless diamonds all mounted
in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold.
By Reena Ahluwalia for Diaco Inc.
54 india’s first Luxury jewellery magazine november-december 2011
Reena’s 101-carat diamond jewel ‘Bel Canto’ featured
on a Belgian stamp.

4.  Royal Asscher is renowned for cutting the largest diamond ever found, the 3,105-carat Star of Africa (Cullinan) diamond in 1908. Royal Asscher was
the first company in the world to patent a diamond cut – the ‘Asscher Cut’ in 1902. The jewellery firm also invented the famous ‘Royal Asscher Cut’
introduced in 2001.
 The “Stars of Africa” collection was launched by Royal Asscher in 2009 with half globe rings featuring floating diamonds. In 2010, the firm invited
Reena Ahluwalia to innovate and design full-globe floating diamond pendants and earrings. The jewellery consists of diamond globes (symbolising
earth’s rotations) encircled by orbits (signifying education, health-care and empowerment for the people of Africa) and the free-floating diamonds
represent the shining spirit of people. In 2011, another collection was unveiled called the “Shining Stars” collection inspired by the day and night
landscape of the African Savannah. The line uses plated sterling silver and ceramics as two additional materials and retails from $1950 upwards.
Both the “Stars of Africa” and “Shining Stars” collections benefit the “Star of Africa” Initiative, Royal Asscher’s African-focused fund-raising
programme.
 De Beers is the second-largest diamond mining company in the world.
Flexible Approach
Reena loves to travel and explore
the world. “Had I not been a
jewellery designer, I would perhaps
have been an archaeologist, or
followed another artistic pursuit
or been a year-round traveller with
no boundaries. I love the sense of
discovery!” she admits.
Her creations reflect her
philosophy of discovery and she
is not rigid about discarding her
ideas that don’t work out. “I do that
when I feel the forms and elements
in my designs are not capturing
or communicating the intended
message effectively. It’s great to allow
yourself to be open and flexible.”
However, a lot of thought and
planning goes into each and every
piece that is crafted by her, and she
unveils her new collection once every
year.“I take time to create collections
that are innovative and meaningful.”
When commissioned for an
assignment, does she go on a
different creative trajectory to work
on those pieces? “For me every
commission starts with a fresh
approach. It is necessary because
that enables me to carve a new path
of thinking to satisfy the project’s
specific requirements. I find it
exciting to work on projects that
are different from each other, and
let me experiment and widen my
creative depths.”
Besides her design projects,
Reena is also a part-time professor
in the jewellery & gemmology
department at George Brown
College,Toronto.ThisToronto-based
designer sells her jewellery in North
America,Asia, and Europe, and
caters to private clients around the
world.
How does a person whose head
is brimming with creative thoughts
recharge herself? What is her de-
stressing mantra? Reena informs,
Creative Charisma
Floating
Fantasy‘Stars of Africa’ 18 karat
white gold earrings with
floating diamonds by
Reena Ahluwalia for
Royal Asscher.
Gothic
MystiqueA knock-out 18 karat white gold
pendant decorated with 28.96
carat shield cut kunzite, 3.48
carat pear shaped tanzanite, 1.55
carat pavé-set tanzanite, 6.24
carat pavé-set pink sapphires.
RoyalAsscher
“I stop, breathe deeply and step out.
I have to say that it refreshes me,
and helps me reboot and refocus.”
This confident and experimental
designer also has a piece of advice
to those who would like to step into
the world of jewellery designing:
“Be authentic, be yourself.There is
no short cut to success.Work hard
and stay honest to your work. Know
that each experience counts – good
or bad. Ask, explore, experiment,
evaluate, integrate and implement.”
That’s a tough act to follow! n
55india’s first Luxury jewellery magazine november-december 2011