1. FOOD AND DRINK 5 MIN
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The Best Barbecue
in New York (of All
Places)
From Central Texas brisket to Carolina
ribs, this fast-paced Yankee city does
slow-cooked Southern standards
surprisingly well
By Troy Segal | Billy
Kentucky is known for fried chicken.
Chicago does deep-dish pizza. New
England makes clam chowder. And New
York is famous for … barbecue? Well,
maybe not famous – yet. But increasingly,
all over town, places are smokin’, and
serving up a succulent array of ribs meats,
plus the proverbial sides and suitable
libations to go with.
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2. juxtapose different regional specialties.
Mostly, though, the town does with barbecue
what it does with so many other things:
Research the goods, choose the best and
offer them up, seasoned with its unique
urban flair.
Blue Smoke
Think of Blue Smoke as a real adult
restaurant, one that just happens to
specialize in barbecue. It’s the brainchild of
local restaurateur Danny Meyer, the man
who knocked the stuffiness out of fine dining
with beloved New York institutions
Gramercy Tavern and The Modern, and who
elevated fast food to a fine art with the
now-ubiquitous Shake Shack. That
translates here into a kind of upscale-
lowbrow experience. The décor is a cross
between country and industrial – a
converted rural factory whose exposed brick
walls and workmanlike light fixtures have
been trucked out with red-leather
banquettes, distressed wood tables and big
tin stars dangling from the walls. There’s a
full bar (unusual for ’cue joints) serving
traditional and contemporary cocktails and
wine. And the menu is full of ingeniously
elegant touches: cornbread madeleines,
smoked chicken wings and, to accompany
the meats, a slice of hot garlic bread,
instead of the traditional white sandwich
bread. Speaking of the meats (let’s not
forget the main event, after all), they include
the traditional baby backs, pulled pork and
chicken, plus some ramp-it-up options like
hickory-smoked prime rib and lamb belly. As
we said: barbecue for grownups.
www.bluesmoke.com
116 E 27th St., 212-447-7733
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3. Classic French cuisine and his attention to
flavourful details and preparation caused the
place to become one of New York’s most
beloved rib joints. Not that there’s anything
haute about the dining experience here.
Food is ordered and collected cafeteria
style, to be consumed at picnic-tables in a
bare (rib)-bones back room – the urban
version of a roadhouse, literally: The plain
building is surrounded by car dealerships on
its stretch of the far West Side. All the better
to concentrate on the copious servings of
classics from all over barbecue country. St.
Louis sticky ribs. Memphis dry rub ribs.
Huge beef ribs. There’s plenty of non-red
meat on offer, too, including massive honey-
glazed turkey legs, and beer-can half
chicken. And, for once, the side dishes are
not afterthoughts, but religious experiences
in themselves, from the bourbon peaches to
the sweet potatoes with bananas to the
creamed spinach that Daisy May’s swears
contains no dairy.
www.daisymaysbbq.com
623 11th Ave. 212-977-1500
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
A Harlem fixture for more than a decade,
Dinosaur sits on the edge of the Hudson
River, a big, urban barn of a place with
wood columns and beamed ceilings and
vintage monster-movie posters on exposed
brick walls. Though the distressed wood
tables are well spaced, the place begins to
roar as the seats fill and the soundtrack
morphs from R&B and soul to Motown and
hip-hop. St. Louis-style rib racks (smoked
with a dry rub, then glazed with sauce) reign
here, though combo plates with hot link
sausages, brisket, pilled pork and chicken
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4. barbecue beef ribs, chicken wings with
hoisin sauce and a side of fried rice. This
fare is not for the faint-hearted: It comes out
spicy, and the three sauces on the table –
the “garlic chipotle pepper,” the “Wango
Tango habanero” and the “sensuous
slathering bar-b-que” – aren’t geared to cool
things down. For that, try one of the beer
cocktails or the chocolate icebox pie for
dessert.
www.dinosaurbarbque.com
700 W. 125th St., 212-694-1777
604 Union S., Brooklyn, 347-429-7030
Ducks Eatery
Reggae and calypso fill your ears while a
smoky-sweet aroma fills the air at this
intimate East Villager, tucked into a side
street (onto which it spills, doubling its
capacity, when its glass front wall opens in
summer). Its menu isn’t so much traditional
barbecue as it is an homage to smoked
foods from all lands, resulting in a sort of
barbecue meets Caribbean meets the Deep
South mélange. Served on wood planks, the
small plates include charcuterie and smoked
mussels, while the meant-for-sharing mains
include smoked goat neck, fried duck, dry
rub ribs (served rarer than the norm,
resulting in incredibly juicy meat). If you
happen in on a Tuesday, grab the melt-in-
your-mouth brisket special; otherwise, make
do with the brisket jerky appetizer,
accompanied by funkily named libations of
liquor or beer, concocted behind the
white-tiled bar and served in Mason jars.
Whenever you go, save room for the
smoked chocolate pot de crème for dessert.
www.duckseatery.com
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5. and it remains a family-friendly rodeo today.
Everything about it is huge, from the menu
to the portions, from the roadhouse-
cum-sports bar set to the crowds – which
tends to happen when a place is smack dab
in the middle of Times Square (seating tip:
ask for the more intimate upstairs, its walls
lined with menus from restaurants around
the country). But while the memorabilia-
bedecked digs suggest tourist trap, as do
certain dishes (seriously, barbecue
nachos?), the ’cue is solid, with respectable
representations of sauce-slathered
Memphis spare ribs, Carolina pulled pork
and Texas brisket, along with some
Southern classics like chicken-fried steak
and catfish fillet. Beer pairings are
suggested with most mains – though you
can get anything you like from the bar, from
daiquiris to lemonade – and, in one nice
break with ’cue-joint tradition, sides and
cornbread are included with entrees.
Another pleasant touch: towels instead of
napkins on the table, and a hot towel at the
meal’s end. You’ll find it useful.
www.virgilsbbq.com
152 W. 44th St., 212-921-9494
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6. the standouts – or even a crispy chicken
sandwich from blackboards above the
counter; the efficient servers push your tray
on down the line, adding on at your request
pickled vegetables or decadent sides like
the dirty frites (French fries “smothered” with
burnt ends), plus drinks (basically, a dozen
beers on tap or in bottles, and soda pop).
Then, loaded tray in hand, you seek out
what seating you can in the big large room
with a hipsters’ cafeteria vibe: whitewashed
brick and reclaimed wood walls and tables,
metal chairs, bare light bulbs. Style-wise,
Quinn’s draws on a couple of regions – the
emphasis on beef reflects Texas, while the
vinegary tomato sauce bespeaks North
Carolina. While the eats are worth
savouring, while light pours in from the
full-length windows, the scene isn’t
conducive to lingering overall. But it does
make the perfect pit stop for a quick lunch or
dinner.
www.mightquinnsbbq.com
103 2nd Ave., 212-677-3733
(and several other locations)
Hill Country Barbecue Market
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7. emphasis on smoked beef, from shoulder to
prime rib, and sausage, though there’s
plenty of pork too, and daily specials
chalked on a blackboard. While the digs are
rustic saloon, the system is traditional
meat-market style: You stand in line to order
the mains by weight, and your hand-carved
helpings – served on butcher paper, with
slices of white bread – are punched on a
ticket card you’ve been given at the door
(don’t lose it; it’s your bill). Same approach
at a different station for hot and cold sides,
like green bean casserole, mac’n’cheese
and “Texas caviar” (a black-eyed peas
salad). From sausage to ice cream, many
ingredients are imported from Texan
purveyors. Back at the table, you can
season the food with a choice of sauces, a
denim-clad server brings drinks, either
alcoholic or non- (we’re partial to the sweet
tea), apps and desserts. If you’re still feeling
lively afterwards, wander downstairs, while
live bands are playing most nights.
www.hillcountry.com
30 W. 26th St., 212-255-4544
345 Adams St., Brooklyn, 718-885-4608
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Published Thursday, May 26th 2016
Header image credit: Courtesy Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
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8. Roll Up to
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9. Five New York
Food Carts
New York was probably into street
food before you were, so go learn
from the masters. From burritos to
dosas, here are five Manhattan
munchie wagons worth a detour
By Tess Rose Lampert | Billy
While it can seem as though there’s a food
cart on every corner in New York, not all
sidewalk meals are created equal, and
knowing which ones are legit is important
insider knowledge. Going for the wrong $5
gyro can leave you full of remorse, and
being able to rattle off the best food carts is
a point of pride for New Yorkers – knowing
where to find the best street eats is a sign of
your authenticity.
The outer boroughs are home to worthwhile
street food that is even cheaper and more
traditional than most of the options on
Manhattan, but that’s not to say the main
island doesn’t have its fair share of gems
tucked away. Among the many carts there
are a few that have stood the test of time
and become New York City icons. From
chicken and lamb gyro over rice to what
many still consider the best tacos in the city,
these five food carts are the essential street
food stops (sticking to Manhattan for now).
Halal Guys
Having started with one stand and a
clientele of mostly Muslim cab drivers in
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10. street food, which they describe as “a
complex melting pot of Middle Eastern and
Mediterranean flavours.” If there’s a Halal
Guys cart nearby, the enticing smell of
seasoned meat with onions and peppers
wafts down the avenues and draws in
people of every nationality, especially during
the late night post-drinking hours. While
there are countless outposts for a quick gyro
or meat and rice plate around the city, the
Halal Guys, with their recognizable yellow
signs and shirts, set themselves apart with
their sauces – it’s not uncommon for a drunk
patron to take off running down 6th Avenue
with a bottle of their proprietary white sauce.
(Reminder: Stealing is wrong.) On any given
night, you can expect a long line of people,
mostly intoxicated, happily waiting 15 or
more minutes for a plate of food rather than
get immediate service from a nearby halal
cart. It’s worth the wait.
www.thehalalguys.com
Multiple locations, including West 53rd
Street and 6th Avenue, 347-527-1505
Tacos Morelos
This local favourite has been gracing the
streets of New York for as long as anyone
Halal Guys
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11. like anything special at first glance. And
truth be told, there’s no gourmet twist: Tacos
Morelos is just good, honest food that is as
close to authentic as anything else in New
York. The fact that it is the go-to spot for
local Mexicans reaffirms its legitimacy. The
tacos rank among the best year after year
even as upscale restaurants that grind their
own masa have come onto the scene. The
inexpensive food is made to order and
served up quickly with a smile. While
Morelos eventually added a nearby brick-
and-mortar restaurant, the quick service
food from the truck easily outshines it.
Multiple locations, including 2nd Street at
Avenue A, 347-772-5216
NY Dosas
Long before vegan food became a citywide
trend, Thiru Kumar was serving up his
dosas in Washington Square Park to hungry
NYU students and faculty. This beloved
outpost for authentic south Indian street
food rivals the best sit-down versions (some
of which are in places like Queens). NY
Dosas draws long lines every day for lunch.
It helps that Kumar is impossibly friendly
and the prices impossibly low. The
crepe-like dosa is made from fermented
lentil batter. It gets stuffed with your choice
of curried vegetables and is served with a
cup of lentil soup, and the entire meal
– almost too much to finish in one sitting –
costs less than $10. This pioneering cart is
one of New York’s best-kept dining secrets.
www.facebook.com/NYDosas
West 4th Street at Sullivan Street,
917-710-2092
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12. addicted to Trini pepper sauce, for starters,
this is a must-visit. The Boys’ menu
combines standard halal cart-style meat
over rice – but with unique Caribbean spices
and sauces – with Trinidadian staples like
bake and shark, and doubles. Owner Fatima
and her son run the cart and have become
just as beloved as the food they serve,
offering island hospitality to their loyal
customers. Their office worker lunchtime
crowd is so steady that this cart is only
opened until 3pm during weekdays.
43rd Street at 6th Avenue
Calexico
This taco cart eventually spawned multiple
brick-and-mortar locations, but it still proudly
peddles tacos and burritos on the streets of
New York. The owners sought to share the
cooking they grew up with in their hometown
of Calexico, Calif. – namely, family recipes
born from a mix of Californian and Mexican
cultures. The result is a special style of food
that pretty much everybody loves. The Soho
street cart still draws a daily crowd of hungry
office workers and hipsters looking for their
Tex-Mex – or more accurately, Cal-Mex –
fix. The tacos, huge burritos, burrito bowls
and quesadillas are worth trying, while but
the absolute must-have is the “sweet
chipotle crack sauce,” aptly named for its
addictive quality.
www.calexico.net
Multiple locations including Prince Street at
Wooster Street
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13. Advice Food and Drink
New York Recommends
Roll Up to
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