3. PLASTERING PROCEDURE:
PLASTER WON’T STICK TO JUST ANY SURFACE AND
YOU DON’T WANT IT TO START FALLING AWAY, SO
ENSURE YOUR SURFACE IS READY TO BE PLASTERED.
MAKE SURE IT IS CLEAN – REMOVE BITS OF EXISTING
PLASTER, DUST OR WALLPAPER.
CHECK THE SUCTION OF YOUR WALL.
HIGH SUCTION POROUS BACKGROUNDS CAN SUCK THE
MOISTURE FROM THE PLASTER MEANING IT DRIES TOO
QUICK – SO YOU MAY NEED TO WET THE WALL BEFORE
YOU START.
WHEN WETTING YOUR WALLS USE A FINE MIST SPRAY
GUN TO AVOID HAVING TO KEEP REACHING DOWN TO
RE-WET YOUR BRUSH.
4. ONCE THE WATER STARTS RUNNING DOWN THE WALL,
YOU KNOW YOU’VE CONTROLLED THE SUCTION.
LOW SUCTION BACKGROUNDS, SUCH AS PAINTED
SURFACES WILL ALSO NEED TO BE PROPERLY PREPARED.
WHILE PLASTERBOARD OR BACKING COAT CAN BE
SKIMMED OVER WITHOUT PREPARATION – EXISTING
PLASTER OR PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES WILL NEED
TREATING WITH A BONDING AGENT, SUCH AS A MIX OF
PVA GLUE AND WATER TO ENSURE THE PLASTER STICKS
TO THE WALL.
YOU COULD ALSO TRY ADDING A HANDFUL OF SAND TO
THE PVA MIXTURE TO GIVE IT A ROUGHER TEXTURE AND
BETTER ADHESION.
CLEAN AS YOU GO ALONG – IT MAY SOUND OVER THE TOP
BUT IT’S VITAL TO HAVE CLEAN BUCKETS, TOOLS AND
EQUIPMENT TO ENSURE YOUR PLASTER DOESN’T GO OFF
AND YOU GET A BETTER FINISH THAT LASTS.
5. • ALSO, DRY PLASTER IS A NIGHTMARE TO REMOVE FROM YOUR TOOLS AND CAN CAUSE
DRAGS IN THE PLASTER FINISH ON YOUR NEXT JOB!
• ALWAYS USE CLEAN WATER, AGAIN TO AVOID CONTAMINATING YOUR PLASTER AND
MAKE IT GO OFF OR SET TOO QUICK.
• ALWAYS MIX PLASTER BY ADDING PLASTER TO THE WATER AND NOT THE OTHER WAY
AROUND.
• ADD JUST ENOUGH PLASTER FIRST TO MAKE A HEAP ON THE TOP OF THE WATER AND
MIX IT SO THAT IT’S LUMP FREE, THEN SLOWLY ADD THE PLASTER TO GET THE CORRECT
CONSISTENCY EITHER WITH A WOODEN STICK OR MIXER DRILL.
• PLASTER AND WATER MIX TOGETHER ROUGHLY HALF AND HALF – SO HALF A (CLEAN)
BUCKET OF WATER SHOULD MAKE A FULL BUCKET OF PLASTER.
• THE PLASTER SHOULD BE THE CONSISTENCY OF MELTED ICE CREAM – TRY STANDING A
STICK IN IT – IF IT CAN STAND UP, THE PLASTER IS MIXED RIGHT.
• PLASTER MUST BE APPLIED WHEN A SURFACE FEELS TACKY, BUT NOT TOO WET, TO HELP
IT BOND TO THE SURFACE WELL.
6. . WHEN PLASTERING A ROOM, TRY NOT TO DO TWO WALLS THAT ARE TOUCHING EACH OTHER AS
YOU RISK DAMAGING ONE WALL WHILE PLASTERING THE OTHER.
• KEEP IT COOL IN THE ROOM YOU ARE PLASTERING – RADIATORS SHOULD BE TURNED OFF OR THE
PLASTER WILL DRY OUT TOO QUICKLY, MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO APPLY AND CRACK.
• BEGINNERS SHOULD START ON A SMALL AREA FIRST TO ENSURE THEY’RE GETTING THE
TECHNIQUE RIGHT.
• START WITH AN AREA WHICH ONLY TAKES 30 MINS OR LESS FOR THE FIRST COAT.
• ENSURE YOU FOLLOW THE SIX STAGES OF PLASTERING CORRECTLY AND CONFIDENTLY – FROM THE
FIRST COAT TO THE FINAL FINISH.
• A GOOD PLASTER FINISH CAN BE ACHIEVED WITH A COMBINATION OF CONFIDENT FIRM PRESSURE
AND THE CORRECT ANGLE OF YOUR TROWEL.
• DON’T TRY AND GET YOUR SURFACE PERFECT IN THE FIRST COAT – IT TAKES TOO MUCH TIME AND
THE PLASTER MAY DRY TOO SOON – IMPERFECTIONS CAN BE IRONED OUT IN LATER STAGES.
• WHEN YOU FIRST APPLY YOUR TROWEL TO THE CEILING OR WALL, START WITH ONE EDGE OF THE
TROWEL ANGLED AWAY FROM IT.
• AS THE PLASTER ON YOUR TROWEL GETS LESS AND LESS WITH YOUR MOVEMENT, THE ANGLE
BETWEEN YOUR TROWEL AND THE SURFACE GETS SMALLER.
• WATCH FOR SPILLAGE WHEN REDUCING THE ANGLE OF YOUR TROWEL!
7. IF YOU’RE DOING A CEILING, DON’T STAND DIRECTLY UNDER YOUR TROWEL, JUST IN CASE
YOU GET PLASTER IN YOUR EYE!
• ARTEX CEILINGS CAN BE PLASTERED BY JUST USING A THICKER COAT OF PLASTER.
• DON’T GO INTO THE EDGES BETWEEN THE CEILING AND WALL STRAIGHT AWAY WITH
YOUR PLASTER – IT CAN BE WORKED INTO THE EDGES AT A LATER DATE AND AVOID LUMPS
OF PLASTER CLUMPING IN THE CORNERS.
• BUT, WHEN YOU DO DO YOUR CORNERS, MAKE SURE THEY’RE FLAT – IT MAKES THE
WHOLE WALL LOOK GOOD!
• ENSURE THE THICKNESS OF THE PLASTER IS EVEN ON THE FIRST AND SECOND COAT. USE
FIRM PRESSURE TO ENSURE IT IS FLAT WITH NO BULGES.
• YOU DON’T NEED TO WORRY TOO MUCH ABOUT SMOOTHNESS OR TROWEL MARKS AT
THIS STAGE, JUST THAT IT’S FLAT AND EVEN.
• MAKE SURE THE FIRST THIN COAT IS WET AND PLIABLE WHEN YOU APPLY THE SECOND
COAT.
• DON’T WORRY ABOUT FILLING EVERY LITTLE HOLE AT THIS STAGE – IT’S BETTER TO
AVOID YOUR PLASTER FIRMING UP TOO QUICK.
• AFTER THE FIRST TWO COATS, THE ‘TROWELLING UP’ PROCESS BEGINS. THIS IS TIME TO
FILL ALL THOSE HOLES, REMOVE YOUR TROWEL MARKS AND GET IT SMOOTH.
8. • Make sure before you start the plaster is
tacky – pliable enough to push the plaster
into the holes, but not so wet you make
new holes.
• As the plaster sets it will darken in
colour, which means it’s time for the final
trowel.
• Don’t over polish the plaster on the final
dry trowel stage – it should be even and
slightly polished, but feel like eggshell –
any smoother, it makes paint and
wallpaper a nightmare to stick to.
9.
10. SPECIFICATION
• R.C.C. Frame structure.
• External & Internal walls in AAC blocks
• Internal wall finish with Gypsum, Gypsum to ceiling and OBD
paint.
• Rolling shutters to each shops & doors to Offices.
• Flooring-2’X2’ vitrified tiles.
• Finished toilets with branded fixtures for offices & common
area.
• Vitrified Flooring in passages and pavers in walkway area.
11. • Common area lighting and Lifts with backup.
• High visibility of all shops from all level with large frontal display.
• Spacious layout that respects liberty for shops and privacy for offices.
• Multiple entrances.
• Excellent finishes and aesthetic to provide a soothing effect.
• Plenty of parking area.
• Options of different sizes for shops and offices.
• Energy efficient design incorporating natural lights.
• Plenty of landscape area located at different locations.
12. DETAILS OF SITE .
SITE NAME : NIRMAN BHARTI CITY CENTER
ADDRESS : CTS NO. 17849 /17850 VEER SAVARKAR MARG ,
NIRALA BAZAAR AURANGABAD.
PROJECT
DEVELOPER : CITY BHARTI TECHNO HERITAGE LLP.
ARCHITECT : MANOJ KALA
(SPACE OLYMPIA , SUTGIRNI CHOWK , GARKHEDA ,
AURANGABAD. )
13. CONTD. . .
CONTRACTOR : ESSEN CONSTRUCTION
PROJECT
COMMENCEMENT DATE : 27TH APRIL 2014
ESTIMATED DATE OF
COMPLETION : 31ST AUGUST 2018
ESTIMATE PROJECT : RS. 15,00,00,000 /-
COST
14. WHETHER PERMISSION TAKEN FROM AMC:- YES
WATER SUPPLY SOURCE: - BORING.
ELECTRICITY AVAILABLE :- YES
METHOD OF CONCRETE MIXING:- CONCRETE MIXER
NUBMER OF LABOUR WORK :- 25
LABOUR CHARGES :- 400-500/SQ.FT.
26. MANUFACTURING OF ACC BLOCK
ACC IS PRODUCED USING NO AGGREGATE LARGER THAN SAND.
QUARTZ SAND, CALCITE GYPSUM, LIME (MINERAL) AND/OR CEMENT AND WATER
ARE USED AS A BINDING AGENT.
ALUMINUM POWDER IS USED AT A RATE OF 0.05%–0.08% BY VOLUME
(DEPENDING ON THE PRE-SPECIFIED DENSITY).
IN SOME COUNTRIES, LIKE INDIA AND CHINA, FLY ASH GENERATED FROM
THERMAL POWER PLANTS AND HAVING 50-65% SILICA CONTENT IS USED AS AN
AGGREGATE.
27. WHEN AAC IS MIXED AND CAST IN FORMS, SEVERAL CHEMICAL REACTIONS TAKE
PLACE THAT GIVE AAC ITS LIGHT WEIGHT (VIZ. 20% OF THE WEIGHT OF
CONCRETE)
ALUMINUM POWDER REACTS WITH CALCIUM HYDROXIDE AND WATER TO
FORM HYDROGEN
DURING MANUFACTURING OF BLOCK CHEMICAL REACTION TAKES PLACE
WHICH EVOLVE HYDOGEN FROM MIX AND IT GIVE SOLID SURFACE BUT
STILL SOFT.
IT IS THEN CUT INTO EITHER BLOCKS OR PANELS, AND PLACED IN
AN AUTOCLAVE CHAMBER FOR 12 HOURS
28. DURING THIS STEAM PRESSURE HARDENING PROCESS ARE CARRIED,
WHICH GIVES AAC ITS HIGH STRENGTH AND OTHER UNIQUE
PROPERTIES.
AFTER THE AUTOCLAVING PROCESS, THE MATERIAL IS READY FOR
IMMEDIATE USE ON THE CONSTRUCTION SITE.
IT CAN CARRY LOADS OF UP TO 8 MPA (1,160 PSI), APPROXIMATELY 50%
OF THE COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH OF REGULAR CONCRETE.
SINCE 1980, THERE HAS BEEN A WORLDWIDE INCREASE IN THE USE AND
PRODUCTION OF AAC MATERIALS. .
AAC IS INCREASINGLY USED BY DEVELOPERS, ARCHITECTS, AND HOME
BUILDERS WORLDWIDE.
33. SOLUTION OF PROBLEM FACED
• BLASTING IS ADOPTED
• DEWATERING BY MEANS OF MOTOR.
34. A
TEP-1 (PREPARATION OF SURFACE FOR PLASTERING)
KEEP ALL THE MORTAR JOINTS OF WALL ROUGH, SO AS TO GIVE A GOOD BONDING TO
HOLD PLASTER.
CLEAN ALL THE JOINTS AND SURFACES OF THE WALL WITH A WIRE BRUSH, THERE
SHOULD BE NO OIL OR GREASE ETC. LEFT ON WALL SURFACE.
IF THE SURFACE IS SMOOTH OR THE WALL TO BE PLASTERED IS OLD ONE, THEN RAKE
OUT THE MORTAR JOINT TO A DEPTH OF AT LEAST 12 MM TO GIVE A BETTER BONDING
TO THE PLASTER.
IF THE PROJECTION ON THE WALL SURFACE IS MORE THAN 12 MM, THEN KNOCK IT OFF,
SO AS TO OBTAIN A UNIFORM SURFACE OF WALL. THIS WILL REDUCE THE
CONSUMPTION OF PLASTER.
IF THERE EXIST ANY CAVITIES OR HOLES ON THE SURFACE, THEN FILL IT IN ADVANCE
WITH APPROPRIATE MATERIAL.
ROUGHEN THE ENTIRE WALL TO BE PLASTERED.
WASH THE MORTAR JOINTS AND ENTIRE WALL TO BE PLASTERED, AND KEEP IT WET
FOR AT LEAST 6 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING CEMENT PLASTER.
35. A
STEP-2 (GROUND WORK FOR PLASTER)
IN ORDER TO GET UNIFORM THICKNESS OF
PLASTERING THROUGHOUT THE WALL SURFACE,
FIRST FIX DOTS ON THE WALL. A DOT MEANS
PATCH OF PLASTER OF SIZE 15 MM * 15 MM AND
HAVING THICKNESS OF ABOUT 10 MM.
DOTS ARE FIXED ON THE WALL FIRST
HORIZONTALLY AND THEN VERTICALLY AT A
DISTANCE OF ABOUT 2 METERS COVERING THE
ENTIRE WALL SURFACE.
CHECK THE VERTICALITY OF DOTS, ONE OVER
THE OTHER, BY MEANS OF PLUMB-BOB.
AFTER FIXING DOTS, THE VERTICAL STRIPS OF
PLASTER, KNOWN AS SCREEDS, ARE FORMED IN
BETWEEN THE DOTS. THESE SCREEDS SERVE AS
THE GAUGES FOR MAINTAINING EVEN
THICKNESS OF PLASTERING BEING APPLIED.
36. A
STEP-3 (APPLYING FIRST COAT OR UNDER COAT OR RENDERING COAT)
IN CASE OF BRICK MASONRY THE THICKNESS OF FIRST COAT PLASTER IS IN GENERAL12
MM AND IN CASE OF CONCRETE MASONRY THIS THICKNESS VARIES FROM 9 TO 15 MM.
THE RATIO OF CEMENT AND SAND FOR FIRST COAT PLASTER VARIES FROM 1:3 TO 1:6.
APPLY THE FIRST COAT OF PLASTER BETWEEN THE SPACES FORMED BY THE SCREEDS
ON THE WALL SURFACE. THIS IS DONE BY MEANS OF TROWEL.
LEVEL THE SURFACE BY MEANS OF FLAT WOODEN FLOATS AND WOODEN STRAIGHT
EDGES.
AFTER LEVELING, LEFT THE FIRST COAT TO SET BUT NOT TO DRY AND THEN ROUGHEN
IT WITH A SCRATCHING TOOL TO FORM A KEY TO THE SECOND COAT OF PLASTER.
37. A
STEP-4 (APPLYING SECOND COAT OR FINISHING COAT OR FINE COAT)
THE THICKNESS OF SECOND COAT OR FINISHING COAT MAY VARY BETWEEN 2 TO 3 MM.
THE RATIO OF CEMENT AND SAND FOR SECOND COAT PLASTER VARIES FROM 1:4 TO 1:6.
BEFORE APPLYING THE SECOND COAT, DAMP THE FIRST COAT EVENLY.
APPLY THE FINISHING COAT WITH WOODEN FLOATS TO A TRUE EVEN SURFACE AND
USING A STEEL TROWEL, GIVE IT A FINISHING TOUCH.
AS FAR AS POSSIBLE, THE FINISHING COAT SHOULD BE APPLIED STARTING FROM TOP
TOWARDS BOTTOM AND COMPLETED IN ONE OPERATION TO ELIMINATE JOINING
MARKS.