strike at Indian designs exports private ltd. by 800 women for increase in wages and better working conditions

1. STRIKE AT INDIAN
DESIGNS EXPORTS PRIVATE
LTD.
SUBMITTED BY :
ALKA RATHI
IISU/2020/ADM/31579
SEM VI

2. CASE
In November 2020, over 800 women garment
workers went on strike over being paid less than
the minimum wage at a factory in Andhra
Pradesh, India owned by Indian Designs Exports
Private Ltd. The workers allege they are paid as
little as 6,000 rupees (US$80) per month and face
harassment by their managers and poor working
conditions. They are calling for a pay rise to
11,000 rupees per month, a transport allowance,
a free canteen, reduced workload, and an end to
harassment. Columbia Sportswear, FatFace, Gap,
H&M, John Lewis and White Stuff are named as
buyers from Indian Designs Exports' on its
website.

3. Business & Human Rights Resource Centre
invited Indian Designs, Columbia Sportswear,
FatFace, Gap, H&M, John Lewis and White Stuff
to respond to the allegations and workers'
demands. Indian Designs said it pays all workers
legal wages and addressed each of the
demands in its response. John Lewis, Gap,
FatFace and Columbia Sportswear responded
and said while Indian Designs is one of their
suppliers, they do not source from the
Anantapur factory. H&M said it is in close
contact with both the supplier and worker
representatives and based on the information it
has, all workers have been paid according to
national law; however, it will continue the
dialogue to ensure all concerns are addressed.
The full responses can be found below. White
Stuff did not respond.

4. COMPANY RESPONSES
• John Lewis' response re. Indian Designs
"Indian Designs is one of our suppliers but
we do not source from the factory where
the protest took place. We have a
longstanding relationship with Indian
Designs and our audits show that they pay
their employees, who produce clothing
for us, the correct wages and also offer
additional benefits."

5. GAP'S RESPONSE RE.
INDIAN DESIGNS
We are aware of the allegations at Indian Designs’
factory in Hindupur, and are closely monitoring the
situation to ensure that both our Code of Vendor
Conduct, as well as all national and provincial labor
laws are adhered to. While we do not work with the
main factory at the center of this dispute, we have
used an associated washing unit for Gap Inc.
production. We have encouraged Indian Designs to
engage in dialogue with the Centre of Indian Trade
Unions (CITU), and to subsequently initiate a
conciliation process with the Deputy Labour
Commissioner. Our expectation is that through social
dialogue, factory management, workers, and their
representatives will be able to reach a mutually
agreed upon resolution that will address all of the
issues that have been raised.

6. H&M'S RESPONSE RE.
INDIAN DESIGNS
Our team in India is in close contact with the
supplier and worker representatives to find a
solution to the situation. According to the
information we have, all workers employed
by the supplier are paid in accordance with
national law. We have done an investigation
into the particular concerns of harassment
through the internal workplace committee
consisting of worker representatives, put in
place to especially address and verify such
concerns. However, the records indicate no
cases have been found. We will continue the
dialogue and follow up to ensure all
concerns are properly addressed.

7. FATFACE'S RESPONSE
RE. INDIAN DESIGNS
While we do not manufacture anything in the Anantapur
Indian Designs facility, we continue to work closely with
our supplier to review the practices in the factory that
we do use. Indian Designs are a key partner to FatFace
and as such they are actively engaged in our Responsible
Sourcing programme. We are working with the Group
level management to identify any necessary
improvements as a result of the situation in Anantapur,
and will ensure that these are implemented in all of
their facilities. To help achieve this, we are engaging
with other Ethical Trading Initiative member companies
that are working with this supplier to collaborate on
identifying and implementing any necessary changes.
We will continue to closely monitor the situation and
are confident that this is the right approach to help
improve conditions for workers across all sites operated
by Indian Designs.

8. Columbia Sportswear's
response re. Indian Designs
Columbia Sportswear Company takes
allegations of failure to pay legal
wages to workers seriously. Columbia
Sportswear Company does not
produce goods at Indian Designs
Exports Private Ltd. factory in Andhra
Pradesh, India. We encourage all our
vendor partners, including Indian
Design, to actively engage with
workers to address their issues and to
engage in an ongoing dialogue with
worker representatives.

9. WHITE STUFF
No Response.