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1. Images: photo

2. Light
-Natural light
-Flash light
-A mix of ambient light and flash.
• Most safe in a cloudy day.
• If you are photographing in sunlight, try to position yourself so that
the sun hits your subject from the side, this will give you nice
'modeling' and help create a 3D effect in the picture.
• Sunlight behind the subject can give a very pleasing 'backlight' effect
but be careful that you are not getting 'flare' in the lens, which
degrades the contrast of the image.

3. A picture taken in the middle of the day, the overhead
sun casts deep shadows into the kids' eyes, spoiling an
otherwise quite nice little group portrait.
This picture was taken at the same time as the one on the
left but here the sun is behind the subject.

4. Composition: The
rule of the third
• The rule of thirds is one of the most
important rules of photographic
composition. Landscape photographers
are particularly fond of this one, but it
works well for many types of subject.
• The rule of thirds simply says that, instead
of placing the main focus of interest in
the center of the frame, which makes for
a very static composition, that you look to
position it on an intersection of the
thirds. That is to say one third up and one
third in or two thirds up and one third in
etc.

5. Example
Never, ever put the horizon in the middle
(almost never).
The tree takes on more importance in this picture because it
now sits on the intersection of the vertical and horizontal
third, which is a very powerful position in the frame.

6. Reasons for the rule of
the third
1. The first is a more general feeling that a
subject in the center of the frame is 'at
rest', it's not going anywhere it feels . . .
And a bit boring.
2. Moving the subject, or main point of
interest, away from the center of the
frame shakes things up, makes the
viewer work a little, it just makes the
picture more dynamic.
3. The emphasis can be either horizontal,
vertical or both.
4. Rule of the third for smartphone
http://iphonephotographyschool.com/the-
rule-of-thirds/

7. Use Diagonals
Setting your subject matter on a diagonal will almost always make for a more dynamic picture.
points. Move around the subject and look for a diagonal.

8. Framing images
1. Head Room
https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules
-Too much headroom makes the person appear to be sinking. Most
novice photographers and videographers will frame shots of people
with too much headroom.
-Too little headroom places visual emphasis on the person's chin and
neck. When framing shots of people, pay attention to where the eyes
appear.

9. Framing images
2. Lead room
-Leave extra space in the direction your subject is looking. This is also
called a nose room. Leave extra space in front of a moving person or
object, like a runner, bicycle, or automobile when following the action.
https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules
https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules
3. Background
Make sure what's in the background of your shot doesn't draw your
viewer's attention from your main subject.
https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules

10. Look at the background
Make sure there are no undesirable objects.
Especially, in the corners of the frame, behind the head, bright colors

11. Viewpoint & cropping
The first, most obvious difference between one viewpoint and another is the background. If a subject
that cannot easily be moved, the only way to change what is in the background is to choose a
different viewpoint. Do not think that you can crop the picture while editing, it will damage the
quality.

12. Exposure
• In photography, 'exposure' means the amount of light that falls onto the
sensor of your digital camera. In modern cameras the exposure is usually
set to automatic by default and, most of the time, it can be left there and
will produce beautiful pictures.
• The amount of light falling on the film is governed by four things.
1. The 'shutter speed' which is the amount of time the shutter is open, measured in
fractions of a second.
2. The amount of light reflected from the scene which, if you are outdoors, you can
do very little about.
3. The 'aperture setting' which is the size of the hole through which the light enters.
Aperture settings are measured in 'f stops'.
4. The ISO setting. This is the 'sensitivity' of the sensor.

13. Shutter speed
• Shutter Speed refers to the amount of
time the shutter is open. This is
usually measured in fractions of a
second, a 'normal' (hate that word!)
shutter speed would be around
1/125th of a second with a standard
lens or mid-range zoom lens on the
camera.
• The shorter the time that the shutter
is open the sharper the photo will be.
If you are taking fast moving objects
such as cars, cyclists or people running
you need to select fast shutter speeds
to capture the sharpest picture you
can.

14. Apertures
• The size of the aperture you choose
governs the 'Depth of Field'. A smaller
aperture will give you a greater depth
of field and a larger aperture will give
you a more restricted depth of field.
• Depth of field, or the lack of it, is
much more noticeable when taking
close-ups. It is often desirable to
render the background of your
picture out of focus. This is easy to
achieve by selecting a larger aperture.
• Conversely, when photographing very
small objects getting everything in
focus can be quite a challenge and
may require a very slow shutter
speed in order to be able to use the
smallest aperture available.

15. Shutters Speeds and Apertures
• Pre-set numbers.
• On a normal sunny day you might see something like '125 16' or '500
5.6‘ in your viewfinder. The first number is the 'shutter speed' and is
simply the time that the shutter will be open for, expressed as a
fraction of a second. So 125 means that the shutter will be open for
1/125th of a second, and 500 means that it will be open for 1/500th
of a second. 1/500th of a second is referred to as a 'faster' shutter
speed than 1/125th, which is a 'slower' shutter speed.