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Indian Economy Overview
1. The economy of India is the fourth largest in the world, with a GDP of $3.63 trillion at 
PPP, and is the tenth largest in the world with a $691.9 billion at 2004 USD exchange 
rates and has a real GDP growth rate of 6.2% at PPP.

2. Growth in the Indian economy has steadily increased since 1979, averaging 5.7% 
per year in the 23­year growth record. 

3. Indian economy has posted an excellent average GDP growth of 6.8% since 1994 
India, the fastest growing free­market democracy in the world, registered a growth rate 
of                 8.2               percent                  in               FY                 2004.


4. India has emerged the global leader in software and business process outsourcing 
services, raking in revenues of US$12.5 billion in the year that ended March 2004. 

5.   Agriculture  has  fall   to   a   drop   because   of   a   bad  monsoon  in   2005.  There   is   a 
paramount need to bring more area under irrigation.

6. Export revenues from the sector are expected to grow from $8 billion in 2003 to $48 
billion in 2009.

7. India’s foreign exchange reserves are over US$ 102 billion and exceed the forex 
reserves of USA, France, Russia and Germany. This has strengthened the Rupee and 
boosted                         investor                      confidence                        greatly.


8. A strong BOP position in recent years has resulted in a steady accumulation of 
foreign exchange reserves. The level of foreign exchange reserves crossed the US 
$100 billion mark on Dec 19, 2003 and was $142.13 billion on March 18, 2005.

9.  Reserve money growth  had  doubled to  18.3% in 2003­04 from 9.2 in 2002­03, 
driven entirely by the increase in the net foreign exchange assets of the RBI. 

10. Reserve money growth declined to 6.4% in the year 2005.

11. During the financial year 2004­05, broad money stock  increased by 7.4 per cent 

12. Economics experts and various studies conducted across the globe envisage India 
and China to rule the world in the 21st century.




                                                      1
Exports
The competitive advantage that India enjoys across a range of sectors has led to rapid 
increase in India's exports. Back on the robust 23.88 per cent growth in exports during 
2006­07, cumulative value of exports during 2007­08 grew by 23.02 per cent to total 
US$ 155.51 billion as against US$ 126.41 billion in the corresponding period last year.

       Spice exports grew by 20 per cent in export volumes in April­May, totalling up to 
   •
       98,570 tonnes as against 82,210 tonnes a year back.
       Jewellery   exports   rose   22.27   per   cent   during   2007­08   compared   to   the 
   •
       corresponding period last fiscal, to reach US$ 20.88 billion.
       Automobile Exports grew by 22.30 per cent during 2007­08 over 2006­07, with 
   •
       Two Wheelers growing by 32.31 per cent and Commercial Vehicles by 19.10 
       per cent.
       Software and services exports grew by 26.33 per cent to register revenues of 
   •
       US$  27.49  billion  during  April­December  2007  as  against  US$  21.76  billion 
       during same period last year. It is estimated that annual exports are likely to 
       grow to US$ 43.89 billion during 2007­08.
       Foreign tourist earnings have increased by 30.1 per cent during 2007 to touch 
   •
       US$ 11.62 billion compared to US$ 8.93 billion in 2006. During January­April 
       2008, foreign tourists earnings further rose by 28.9 per cent to US$ 4.84 billion.

The new fiscal (2008–09) has continued the robust performance of the economy on 
the trade front. Exports have risen by a healthy 31.5 per cent to US$ 14.4 billion during 
April 2008, as against US$ 10.95 billion during the corresponding period last year. 
With such continued buoyancy on the trade front, the Government has set a target of 
US$ 200 billion in export earnings for the current fiscal year.

WHAT IS ECONOMIC SELF-RELIANCE?

Economic   self­reliance   (ESR)   represents   a   different   way   of   thinking   about   the 
processes and outcomes of economic development. ESR is an individual's ability to 
garner and hold economic resources in excess of their basic needs. 

The concept of ESR recognizes that there are individuals who are unable (due to 
physical   or   mental   disability)   to   garner   any   surplus   resources,   individuals   with 




                                                 2
surpluses large and secure enough to meet any conceivable need, and individuals at 
every point in between. ESR affects the entire spectrum. 

ESR   is   also   context   specific;   what   constitutes   basic   needs   for   someone   in   a 
developed country will differ drastically from someone in a developing country. But the 
core principles of economic development are the same throughout the world. 

WHY IS ESR IMPORTANT?

Individuals  who  are  economically  self­reliant  have  greater  resilience  in   the  face  of 
negative  economic  shocks.  Those  with  greater  resilience  will  suffer  lower  intensity 
(less   severe)   or   shorter   duration   (quicker   recovery).   ESR   represents   a   type   of 
insurance against the disruptions caused by adverse economic events. 

More important than its insurance value, ESR provides a solid platform from which 
people  can  develop  and  reach  their  full   human  potential.  Once  people  possess  a 
sustainable   surplus,   they   can   turn   their   attention   to   the   pursuit   that   psychologist 
Abraham Maslow termed self­actualization: developing and expressing talents, skills, 
emotions, and values to the fullest extent.2 It's hard to reach our full potential when we 
are worried about our next meal. 




                                                   3
Export-Import Bank of India
Export­Import   Bank   of   India   is   the   premier   export   finance 
institution   of   the   country,   set   up   in   1982   under   the   Export­
Import Bank of India Act 1981. Government of India launched 
the institution with a mandate, not just to enhance exports from 
India,   but   to   integrate   the   country’s   foreign   trade   and 
investment   with   the   overall   economic   growth.   Since   its 
inception,   Exim   Bank  of   India   has   been   both   a   catalyst   and   a   key   player   in   the 
promotion   of   cross   border   trade   and   investment.   Commencing   operations   as   a 
purveyor of export credit, like other Export Credit Agencies in the world, Exim Bank of 
India   has,   over   the   period,   evolved   into   an   institution   that   plays   a   major   role   in 
partnering Indian industries, particularly the Small and Medium Enterprises, in their 
globalisation  efforts,  through  a   wide  range  of  products  and  services  offered  at   all 
stages of the business cycle, starting from import of technology and export product 
development to export production, export marketing, pre­shipment and post­shipment 
and overseas investment. 



THE INITIATIVES 

        Exim Bank of India has been the prime mover in encouraging project exports 
    •
        from India. The Bank provides Indian project exporters with a comprehensive 
        range of services to enhance the prospect of their securing export contracts, 
        particularly those funded by Multilateral Funding Agencies like the World Bank, 
        Asian Development Bank, African Development Bank and European Bank for 
        Reconstruction and Development. 

        The   Bank   extends   lines   of   credit   to   overseas   financial   institutions,   foreign 
    •
        governments and their agencies, enabling them to finance imports of goods and 
        services from India on deferred credit terms. Exim Bank’s lines of Credit obviate 
        credit   risks   for   Indian   exporters   and   are   of   particular   relevance   to   SME 
        exporters. 




                                                      4
The   Bank’s   Overseas   Investment   Finance   programme   offers   a   variety   of 
•
    facilities for Indian investments and acquisitions overseas. The facilities include 
    loan to Indian companies for equity participation in overseas ventures, direct 
    equity   participation   by   Exim   Bank   in   the   overseas   venture   and   non­funded 
    facilities such as letters of credit and guarantees to facilitate local borrowings by 
    the overseas venture. 

    The   Bank   provides   financial   assistance   by   way   of   term   loans   in   Indian 
•
    rupees/foreign   currencies   for   setting   up   new   production   facility 
    expansion/modernization/upgradation of existing facilities and for acquisition of 
    production   equipment/technology.   Such   facilities   particularly   help   export 
    oriented Small and Medium Enterprises for creation of export capabilities and 
    enhancement of international competitiveness. 

    Under its Export Marketing Finance programme, Exim Bank supports Small and 
•
    Medium Enterprises in their export marketing efforts including financing the soft 
    expenditure   relating   to   implementation   of   strategic   and   systematic   export 
    market development plans. 

    The Bank has launched the Rural Initiatives Programme with the objective of 
•
    linking Indian rural industry to the global market. The programme is intended to 
    benefit rural poor through creation of export capability in rural enterprises. 

    In order to assist the Small and Medium Enterprises, the Bank has put in place 
•
    the   Export  Marketing  Services  (EMS)  Programme.  Through  EMS,  the   Bank 
    seeks  to   establish,  on  best  efforts  basis,  SME  sector  products  in   overseas 
    markets,   starting   from   identification   of   prospective   business   partners   to 
    facilitating placement of final orders. The service is provided on success fee 
    basis. 

    Exim Bank supplements its financing programmes with a wide range of value­
•
    added information, advisory and support services, which enable exporters to 
    evaluate   international   risks,   exploit   export   opportunities   and   improve 
    competitiveness, thereby helping them in their globalisation efforts. 




                                             5
 




    Indian
    Textile
    Industry


       6
7
Indian Textile Industry
The term ‘Textile' is a Latin word which cones from the word ‘texere' which means ‘to 
       weave'. Textile originally referred to a woven fabric but latter on the term textile 
       as well as the plural textiles refers to fibers, filaments and yarns. Textile industry 
       occupies a significant position in India.
The primary contribution of textile industry :

        Export earning for the country, textile industry occupies 16% of the country's 
   •
        export earning. 
        Generating   employment,   second   largest   employment   generator   after 
   •
        agricultural sector 
        Industrial   output   sums   up   to   14%   of   total   industrial   production   and 
   •
        approximately contributes to 30 % of total export products. 

The primary sectors which comprise of the textile industry
•  Manmade fiber mill textile mill industry
•  Filament yarn industry
•  Deconcentrated power loom sector 
•  Woolen textile industry 
•  Silk industry 
•  Jute industry
•  Handicraft industry 



Textile industry is constituted of the following segments

• Readymade Garments
• Cotton Textiles including Handlooms (Millmade / Powerloom/ Handloom)
• Man­made Textiles
• Silk Textiles
• Woollen Textiles
• Handicrafts including Carpets




                                               8
• Coir
• Jute




Advantages and Limitations of Textile Industry

Indian textile industries enjoy certain favorable factors which contribute in retaining its 
leading   position   in   national   and   international   scenario.   These   factors   can   be   fully 
utilized to ensure further growth and development. 

         Large raw material base including  cotton,  wool,  silk,  jute  and other manmade 
    •
         fibers. 
         Huge capacity of production 
    •
         Easy accessibility to large scale skilled man power 
    •
         Entrepreneurship 
    •
         Flexible production process 
    •


But there are certain limitations as well which constrict the pace of growth in textile 
sector. 

         The whole industry is split up 
    •
         Cotton quality 
    •
         Limitation and hazards in procedure of processing 
    •
         Labor reform problems 
    •
         Infrastructural limitations and bottlenecks 
    •


Major products of textile industries

         Awnings, textile 
    •
         Blankets and  Towels 
    •
         Bags or sacks, textile 
    •
         Blinds, textile 
    •
         Canvas goods, textile 
    •
         Fabrics, textile 
    •
         Felts ( except floor coverings) 
    •
         Glass fiber fabric 
    •



                                                   9
Household linen, Lace 
    •
        Narrow fabric 
    •
        Netting, textile 
    •
        Piece goods 
    •
        Ropes (except wire ropes) 
    •
        Sail cloth 
    •
        Sewing thread / String 
    •
        Tarpaulin 
    •
        Trimmings, textile 
    •
        Yarns 
    •


Main aspects of Textile industry

        Textile apparel which includes clothing and garment 
    •
        Textile fabric 
    •
        Fibers, yarns and threads 
    •
        Textile chemical , Textile products , Textile machinery, Textile services 
    •


                   Textile Industry in India
Textile Industry in India is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. It 
holds significant status in India as it provides one of the most fundamental necessities 
of the people. Textile industry was one of the earliest industries to come into existence 
in India and it accounts for more than 30% of the total exports. In fact Indian textile 
industry is the second largest in the world, second only to China. 

Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic 
requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value­addition at every 
stage   of   processing.   Textile   industry   in   India   has   vast   potential   for   creation   of 
employment opportunities in the agricultural, industrial, organised and decentralised 
sectors & rural and urban areas, particularly for women and the disadvantaged. 

Till the year 1985, development of textile sector in India took place in terms of general 
policies. In 1985, for the first time the importance of textile sector was recognized and 
a   separate  policy  statement  was  announced  with  regard  to   development  of  textile 
sector. In the year 2000, National Textile Policy was announced. Its main objective 
was: to provide cloth of acceptable quality at reasonable prices for the vast majority of 
the population of the country, to increasingly contribute to the provision of sustainable 
employment and the economic growth of the nation; and to compete with confidence 
for an increasing share of the global market. The policy also aimed at achieving the 
target of textile and apparel exports of US $ 50 billion by 2010 of which the share of 



                                                   10
garments             will            be             US              $            25             billion.



Strengths of Indian textile Industry

       India has rich resources of raw materials of textile industry. It is one of the 
   •
       largest producers of cotton in the world and is also rich in resources of fibres 
       like polyester, silk, viscose etc. 
       India is rich in highly trained manpower. The country has a huge advantage due 
   •
       to   lower  wage  rates.  Because  of  low  labor  rates  the   manufacturing  cost  in 
       textile automatically comes down to very reasonable rates. 
       India is highly competitive in spinning sector and has presence in almost all 
   •
       processes of the value chain. 
       Indian garment industry is very diverse in size, manufacturing facility, type of 
   •
       apparel produced, quantity and quality of output, cost, requirement for fabric 
       etc. It comprises suppliers of ready­made garments for both, domestic or export 
       markets. 




Weaknesses of Indian textile Industry

       Indian textile industry is highly fragmented in industry structure, and is led by 
   •
       small scale companies. The reservation of production for very small companies 
       that was imposed with the intention to help out small scale companies across 
       the country, led substantial fragmentation that distorted the competitiveness of 
       industry.   Smaller   companies   do   not   have   the   fiscal   resources   to   enhance 
       technology or invest in the high­end engineering of processes. Hence they lose 
       in productivity. 
       Indian   labour  laws   are   relatively   unfavorable   to   the   trades  and   there   is   an 
   •
       urgent need for labour reforms in India. 
       India   seriously   lacks   in   trade   pact   memberships,   which   leads   to   restricted 
   •
       access to the other major markets. 


Outlook for Indian textile Industry

The outlook for textile industry in India is very optimistic. It is expected that Indian 
textile industry would continue to grow at an impressive rate. Textile industry is being 


                                                  11
modernized  by  an   exclusive  scheme,  which  has  set   aside   $5bn  for   investment  in 
improvisation of machinery. India can also grab opportunities in the export market. The 
textile industry is anticipated to generate 12mn new jobs in various sectors.

The textile industry is the largest industry of modern India.   It accounts for over 20 
percent of industrial production and is closely linked with the agricultural and rural 
economy.  It is the single largest employer in the industrial sector employing about 38 
million  people.   If employment in allied sectors like ginning, agriculture, pressing, 
cotton trade, jute, etc. are added then the total employment is estimated at 93 million. 
The net foreign exchange earnings in this sector are one of the highest and, together 
with carpet and handicrafts, account for over 37 percent of total export earnings at 
over US $ 10 billion.  Textiles, alone, account for about 25 percent of India’s total forex 
earnings.

India’s textile industry since its beginning continues to be predominantly cotton based 
with about 65 percent of fabric consumption in the country being accounted for by 
cotton.  The industry is highly localised in Ahmedabad and Bombay in the western part 
of   the   country   though   other   centres   exist   including   Kanpur,   Calcutta,   Indore, 
Coimbatore, and Sholapur.

The   structure   of   the   textile   industry   is   extremely   complex   with   the   modern, 
sophisticated   and   highly   mechanised   mill   sector   on   the   one   hand   and   the 
handspinning and handweaving (handloom) sector on the other.  Between the two falls 
the   small­scale   powerloom   sector.     The   latter   two   are   together   known   as   the 
decentralised sector.  Over the years, the government has granted a whole range of 
concessions to the non­mill sector as a result of which the share of the decentralised 
sector has increased considerably in the total production.   Of the two sub­sectors of 
the decentralised sector, the powerloom sector has shown the faster rate of growth.  In 
the   production  of  fabrics  the   decentralised  sector  accounts  for  roughly  94  percent 
while the mill sector has a share of only 6 percent.
Being an agro­based industry the production of raw material varies from year to year 
depending on weather and rainfall conditions.  Accordingly the price fluctuates too.

India's trade in textiles and its share in world trade can be categorized as follows:

                               India’s Trade in Textiles Annual Growth Rate
                                                Compound
                                                       (CAGR) of different segments
                                   (1998)
 Type               India's Share in                   Type              CAGR (1993-98)
                    World Trade
                                                       Yarn              31.79%
                                               12
                                                       Fabric            9.04%

                                                       Made-ups          15.18%
Yarn       22%
Fabrics    3.2%
Apparel    2%
Made-ups   9%


Over-all   2.8%




                  13
SECTOR- WISE ANALYSIS

(i) Readymade Garments: Readymade Garments account for approximately 45% 
of   the   country’s   total   textiles   exports.   During   the   year   2004–2005,   Readymade 
Garment exports were US$ 6 billion, recording an increase of 4.1% as compared to 
the   corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the Readymade Garment 
exports have amounted to US$ 7.75 billion, recording an increase of 28.69 % over the 
exports   during   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter   of   2006­2007   the   Readymade 
Garment exports have amounted to US$ 2.17 billion, recording an increase of 15.70% 
over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006.


(ii) Cotton Textiles including Handlooms:  Cotton Textiles i.e. yarn, fabrics 
and made­ups (Mill made / Powerloom/ Handloom) constitute more than 2/3rd of our 
exports   of   all   fibres/yarns/made­ups.   During   2004–2005,   Cotton   Textile   exports 
including Handlooms were US$ 3.54 billion, recording a decline of 1.5% as compared 
to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the Cotton Textiles exports 
have amounted to US$ 4.49 billion, recording a healthy increase of 26.78% over the 
exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­
2007 the Cotton Textiles including Handlooms exports have amounted to US$ 1.25 
billion, recording an increase of 25.70% over the exports during the corresponding 
period of 2005­2006. 


(iii) Man-made Textiles:  During 2004 –2005, man­made Textiles exports were 
US$  2.05  billion,  recording  a   growth  of   12.6%  as   compared  to   the   corresponding 
period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the man­made Textile exports have amounted to 
US$   2.00   billion,   recording   a   decline   of   2.47%   over   the   exports   during   the 
corresponding period of 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the Man­
made Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.52 billion, recording an increase of 
13.15% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006.


(iv) Silk Textiles: During 2004–2005, Silk Textiles exports were US$ 0.59 billion, 
recording a  growth  of 9.0%  as  compared to the  corresponding  period  of  2003­04. 
During 2005­2006 the silk exports have amounted to US$ 0.69 billion, recording an 
increase of 16.37% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005. 
During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the Silk Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 
0.165   billion,   recording   an   increase   of   4.23%   over   the   exports   during   the 
corresponding period of 2005­2006.



                                               14
(v) Woolen Textiles:  During 2004–2005, woolen Textiles exports were US$ 0.42 
billion, recording a growth of 23.4% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­
04.   During   the   period   of   April­March,   2005­2006   the   woolen   Textile   exports  have 
amounted to US$ 0.47 billion, recording an increase 13.63% over the exports during 
the   corresponding  period   of   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter  of   2006­2007   the 
Woolen Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.114 billion, recording an increase of 
11.96% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006.


(vi) Handicrafts including Carpets:  During 2004 –2005, handicrafts including 
carpet exports were US$ 1.01 billion, showing a decline of 6.6% as compared to the 
corresponding   period   of   2003­04.   During   2005­2006   the   handicrafts   exports   have 
amounted   to   US$   1.24   billion,   recording   an   increase   of   22.24%   over   the   exports 
during   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter   of   2006­2007   the   Handicrafts   including 
Carpets exports have  amounted to US$ 0.301 billion, recording a marginal decline of 
1.31% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006.


(vii) Coir:  During  2004  –2005,  coir   exports  were  US$  0.106  billion,  recording  a 
growth of 35.7% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­
2006 the coir exports have amounted to US$ 0.134 billion recording an increase of 
27.19% over the exports during 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the 
Coir exports have amounted to US$ 0.032 billion, recording an increase of 10.03% 
over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006. 


(viii) Jute:  During 2004 –2005, jute exports were US$ 0.276 billion, recording a 
growth of 14% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­
2006 the Jute exports have amounted to US$ 0.295 billion, recording an increase of 
6.64% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005.




                                                 15
Global Scenario
The textile and clothing trade is governed by the Multi­Fibre Agreement (MFA) which 
came into force on January 1, 1974 replacing short­term and long­term arrangements 
of the 1960’s which protected US textile producers from booming Japanese textiles 
exports.  Later, it was extended to other developing countries like India, Korea, Hong 
Kong, etc. which had acquired a comparative advantage in textiles.   Currently, India 
has bilateral arrangements under MFA with USA, Canada, Australia, countries of the 
European Commission, etc.   Under MFA, foreign trade is subject to relatively high 
tariffs and export quotas restricting India’s penetration into these markets.  India was 
interested   in   the   early   phasing   out   of   these   quotas   in   the   Uruguay   Round   of 
Negotiations but this did not happen due to the reluctance of the developed countries 
like the US and EC to open up their textile markets to Third World imports because of 
high labour costs.   With the removal of quotas, exports of textiles have now to cope 
with  new  challenges in  the  form of growing non­tariff  /  non­trade barriers  such  as 
growing regionalisation of trade between blocks of nations, child labour, anti­dumping 
duties, etc.

Nevertheless,  it   must  be  realised  that  the  picture  is  not  all   rosy.    It   is  now  being 
admitted universally and even officially that the year 2005 AD is likely to present more 
of a challenge than opportunity. If the industry does not pay attention to the very vital 
needs of modernisation, quality control, technology upgradation, etc. it is likely to be 
left behind.  Already, its comparative advantage of cheap labour is being nullified by 
the use of outmoded machinery.

With the dismantling of the MFA, it becomes imperative for the textile industry to take 
on competitors like China, Pakistan, etc., which enjoy lower labour costs.  In fact the 
seriousness of the situation becomes even more apparent when it is realised that the 
non­quota exports have not really risen dramatically over the past few years.   The 
continued dominance of yarn in exports of cotton, synthetics, and blends, is another 
cause for worry while exports of fabrics is not growing.   The lack of value  added 
products in textile exports do not augur well for India in a non­MFA world.

Textile exports alone earn almost 25 percent of foreign exchange for India yet its 
share in global trade is dismal, having declined from 10.9 percent in 1955 to 3.23 
percent in 1996.   More significantly, the share of China in world trade in textiles, in 



                                                  16
1994, was 13.24 percent, up from 4.36 percent in 1980.  Hong Kong, too, improved its 
share from 7.06 percent to 12.65 percent over the same period.  Growth rate, in US$ 
terms, of exports of textiles, including apparel, was over 17 percent between 1993­94 
to  1995­96.   It  declined  to  10.5 percent  in 1996­97 and  to  5  percent  in  1997­98. 
Another disconcerting aspect that reflects the declining international competitiveness 
of Indian textile industry is the surge in imports in the last two years.  Imports grew by 
12 percent in dollar terms in 1997­98, against an average of 5.8 percent for all imports 
into India.   Imports from China went up by 50 percent while those from Hong Kong 
jumped by 23 percent.  

Global factors influencing textile industry
The history of the textile and clothing industry has been replete with the use of various 
bilateral   quotas,   protectionist   policies,   discriminatory   tariffs,   etc.   by   the   developed 
world against the developing countries. The result was a highly distorted structure, 
which imposed hidden costs on the export sectors of the Third World.  Despite the fact 
that GATT was established way back in 1947, the textile industry, till 1994, remained 
largely   out   of   its   liberalisation   agreements.     In   fact,   trade   in   this   sector,   until   the 
Uruguay Round, evolved in the opposite direction. Consequently, since 1974 global 
trade   in   the   textiles   and   clothing   sector   had   been   governed   by   the   Multi­fibre 
agreement,   which   was  the   sequel   to   an   increasingly  pervasive   quota   regime   that 
began with the Short­term arrangement on cotton products in 1962 and followed by 
the Long­Term arrangement.  After the successful conclusion of the Uruguay Round in 
1994, the MFA was replaced by the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), which 
had the same MFA framework in the context of an agreed, ten year phasing out of all 
quotas by the year 2005.   


                                           Current Scenario

Textile exports are targeted to reach $50 billion by 2010, $25 billion of which will go to 
the US. Other markets include UAE, UK, Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Canada, 
Bangladesh and Japan. The name of these countries with their background can give 
thousands   of   insights   to   a   thinking   mind.   The   slant   cut   that   will   be   producing   a 
readymade garment will sell at a price of 600 Indian rupees, making the value addition 
to be profitable by 300 %.

Currently,   because   of   the   lifting   up   of   the   import   restrictions   of   the   multi­fibre 
arrangement  (MFA)  since   1st   January,   2005   under  the   World   Trade   Organization 



                                                       17
(WTO) Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, the market has become competitive; on 
closer look however, it sounds an opportunity because better material will be possible 
with the traditional inputs so far available with the Indian market.

At present, the textile industry is undergoing a substantial re­orientation towards other 
then clothing segments of textile sector, which is commonly called as technical textiles. 
It is moving vertically with an average growing rate of nearly two times of textiles for 
clothing applications and now account for more than half of the total textile output. The 
processes in making technical textiles require costly machinery and skilled workers.

The   application   that   comes   under   technical   textiles   are   filtration,   bed   sheets   and 
abrasive materials, healthcare upholstery and furniture, blood­absorbing materials and 
thermal  protection,  adhesive  tape,  seatbelts,  and  other  specialized  application  and 
products.


                                           Strengths

India enjoys benefit of having plentiful resources of raw materials. It is one of the 
largest producers of cotton yarn around the globe, and also there are good resources 
of fibres like polyester, silk, viscose etc.

There is wide range of cotton fibre available, and has a rapidly developing synthetic 
fibre industry.

India has great competitiveness  in spinning sector and has presence in almost  all 
processes of the value chain.

Availability   of   highly   trained   manpower   in   both,   management   and   technical.   The 
country has a huge advantage due to lower wage rates. Because of low labor rates the 
manufacturing cost in textile automatically comes down to very reasonable rates.

The installed capacity of spindles in India contributes for 24% share of the world, and it 
is one of the biggest exporters of yarns in the global market. Having modern functions 
and favorable fiscal policies, it accounts about 25% of the world trade in cotton yarn.

The apparel industry is largest foreign exchange earning sector, contributing 12% of 
the country's total exports. The garment industry is very diverse in size, manufacturing 
facility, type of apparel produced, quantity and quality of output, cost, requirement for 
fabric etc. It comprises suppliers of ready­made garments for both, domestic or export 
markets.




                                                  18
Weakness

Massive Fragmentation:

A   major   loop­hole   in   Indian   textile   industry   is   its   huge   fragmentation   in   industry 
structure, which is led by small scale companies. Despite the government policies, 
which made this deformation, have been gradually removed now, but their impact will 
be seen for some time  more. Since most of the companies are small  in size, the 
examples of industry leadership are very few, which can be inspirational model for the 
rest of the industry.

The industry veterans portrays the present productivity of factories at half to as low as 
one­third of levels, which might be attained. In many cases, smaller companies do not 
have the fiscal resources to enhance technology or invest in the high­end engineering 
of  processes.  The  skilled  labor  is  cheap  in   absolute  terms;  however,  most  of  this 
benefit is lost by small companies.

The uneven supply base also leads barriers in attaining integration between the links 
in   supply   chain.   This   issue   creates   uncontrollable,   unreliable   and   inconsistent 
performance.

Political and Government Diversity:

The reservation  of production for very small companies that  was imposed  with an 
intention   to   help   out   small   scale   companies   across   the   country,   led   substantial 
fragmentation  that distorted the competitiveness of  industry. However,  most of  the 
sectors   now   have   been   de­reserved,   and   major   entrepreneurs   and   corporate   are 
putting­in huge amount of money in establishing big facilities or in expansion of their 
existing plants.

Secondly, the foreign investment was kept out of textile and apparel production. Now, 
the Government has gradually eliminated these restrictions, by bringing down import 
duties on capital equipment, offering foreign investors to set up manufacturing facilities 
in India. In recent years, India has provided a global manufacturing platform to other 
multi­national companies that manufactures other than textile products; it can certainly 
provide a base for textiles and apparel companies.

Despite some motivating step taken by the government, other problems still sustains 
like various taxes and excise imbalances due to diversification into 35 states and 
Union Territories. However, an outline of VAT is being implemented in place of all 
other tax diversifications, which will clear these imbalances once it is imposed fully.


                                                   19
Labour Laws:

In India, labour laws are still found to be relatively unfavorable to the trades, with 
companies having not more than ideal model to follow a 'hire and fire' policy. Even the 
companies have often broken their business down into small units to avoid any trouble 
created by labour unionization.

In past few years, there has been movement gradually towards reforming labour laws, 
and it is anticipated that this movement will uphold the environment more favorable. 

Distant Geographic Location:

There are some high­level disadvantages for India due to its geographic location. For 
the foreign companies, it has a global logistics disadvantage due the shipping cost is 
higher   and   also   takes   much   more   time   comparing   to   some   other   manufacturing 
countries like Mexico, Turkey, China etc. The inbound freight traffic has been also low, 
which affects cost of shipping ­ though, movement of containers are not at reasonable 
costs.

Lack of trade memberships: 

India is serious lacking in trade pact memberships, which leads to restricted access to 
the other major markets. This issue made others to impose quota and duty, which put 
scissors on the sourcing quantities from India.

                                             Opportunities

It   is   anticipated   that   India's   textile   industry   is   likely   to   do   much   better.   Since   the 
consumption of domestic fibre is low, the growth in domestic consumption in tandem is 
anticipated with GDP of 6 to 8 % and this would support the growth of the local textile 
market at about 6 to 7 % a year.

India can also grab opportunities in the export market. The industry has the potential of 
attaining $34bn export earnings by the year 2010. The regulatory polices is helping out 
to   enhance   infrastructures   of   apparel   parks,   Specialized   textile   parks,   EPZs   and 
EOUs.

The Government support has ensured fast consumption of clothing as well as of fibre. 
A single rate will now be prevalent throughout the country.

The  Indian manufacturers  and  suppliers  are  improving  design skills, which  include 
different fabrics according  to different markets. Indian fashion industry and  fashion 


                                                       20
designers are marking their name at international platform. Indian silk industry that is 
known for its fine and exclusive brocades, is also adding massive strength to the textile 
industry.

The industry is being modernized via an exclusive scheme, which has set aside $5bn 
for investment in improvisation of machinery. International brands, such as Levis, Wal­
Mart, JC Penny, Gap, Marks & Spencer and other industry giants are sourcing more 
and more fabrics and garments from India. Alone Wal­Mart had purchased products 
worth $200mn last year and plans to increase buying up to $3bn in the coming year. 
The clothing giant from Europe, GAP is also sourcing from India.

Anticipation 
As   a   result   of   various   initiatives   taken   by   the   government,   there   has   been   new 
investment of Rs.50,000 crore in the textile industry in the last five years. Nine textile 
majors invested Rs.2,600 crore and plan to invest another Rs.6,400 crore. Further, 
India's  cotton  production  increased by 57% over  the  last  five years; and 3  million 
additional spindles and 30,000 shuttle­less looms were installed.

Forecast till 2010 for textiles by the government along with the industry and Export 
Promotion Councils is to attain double the GDP, and the export is likely attain $85bn. 
The industry is anticipated to generate 12mn new jobs in various sectors.




                                                  21
Multi –Fibre Agreement (MFA)

On January 1st, 1974, the Arrangement Regarding the International Trade in Textiles, 
      otherwise   known   as   the   MFA   came   into   force.     It   superseded   all   existing 
      arrangements that had been governing trade in cotton textiles since 1961.  The 
      MFA sought to achieve the expansion of trade, the reduction of barriers to trade 
      and the progressive liberalisation of world trade in textile products, while at the 
      same time ensuring the orderly and equitable development of this trade and 
      avoidance of disruptive effects in individual markets and on individual lines of 
      production in both importing and exporting countries.  Though it was supposed 
      to be a short­term arrangement to enable the adjustment of the industry to a 
      free trade regime, the MFA was extended in 1974, 1982, 1986, 1991, and 1992. 
      Because of the quotas allotted, the MFA resulted in a regular shift of production 
      from quota restricted countries to less restricted ones as soon as the quotas 
      began to cause problems for the traders in importing countries. The first three 
      extensions of the MFA, instead of liberalising the trade in textiles and clothing, 
      further intensified restrictions on imports, specifically affecting the developing 
      country   exporters   of   the   textile   and   clothing   products.     Increased   usage   of 
      several   MFA   measures   tended   to   further   erode   the   trust   which   developing 
      countries had originally placed in the MFA.

The MFA set the terms and conditions for governing quantitative restrictions on textile 
      and   clothing   exports   of   developing   countries   either   through   negotiations   or 
      bilateral   agreements   or   on   a   unilateral   basis.     The   bilateral   agreements 
      negotiated   between   importing   and   exporting   country’s   contained   provisions 
      relating to the products traded but they differed in the details.   The restraints 
      under the MFA were often negotiated, or unilaterally imposed at relatively short 
      intervals, practically annually. The quotas could be either by function or fibre




                                                22
Under the MFA, product coverage was extended to include textiles and clothing made 
       of wool and man­made fibres (MMF), as well as cotton and blends thereof. 
       With regard to applications of safeguard measures, import restrictions could be 
       imposed unilaterally in a situation of actual market disruption in the absence of 
       a   mutually  agreed  situation.    However,  in   situations  involving  a   real   risk  of 
       market disruption only bilateral restraint agreements were possible. The Textile 
       Surveillance   Body   (TSB)   was   set   up   to   monitor   disputes   regarding   actions 
       taken in response to market disruptions.

The MFA permitted certain flexibility in quota restrictions for the exporters so that they 
       could  adjust  to   changing  market  conditions,  export  demands  and  their  own 
       capabilities. The MFA also provided for higher quotas and liberal growth for 
       developing countries whose exports were already restrained. The MFA asked 
       the participants to refrain from restraining the trade of small suppliers under 
       normal circumstances.  In general, developed countries, under MFA, chose not 
       to impose restrictions on imports from other developed countries

The TSB ensured compliance by all parties to the obligations of bilateral agreements 
       or unilateral agreements.  It called for notification of all restrictive measures.  A 
       Textiles   Committee   –   established   as   a   management   body   consisting   of   all 
       member countries – was the final arbiter under the MFA and worked as a court 
       of appeal for disputes that could not be resolved under TSB.


The eventual outcome of prolonged negotiations was the Agreement on Textiles and 
Clothing.

                   Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)
The ATC calls for a progressive phasing out of all the MFA restrictions and other 
       discriminatory measures in a period of 10 years.   In contrast to the MFA, the 
       ATC is applicable to all members of the WTO.

The   Agreement   on   Textiles   and   Clothing   (ATC)   is   made   to   abolish   MFA   quotas 
marked   a   significant   turnaround   in   the   global   textile   trade.   The   ATC   mandated 
progressive phase out of import quotas established under MFA, and the integration of 
textiles and clothing into the multilateral trading system before January 2005.


                 Estimated Gains in USA and EU For China and India



                                                23
(US $ Billions)

                         Textiles                            Clothing                       Total
Markets       Present         Future (2014)      Present (2003) Future (2014)               2014
              (2003) 

Gains in  China      India    China   India      China     India    China   India   China      India

USA        3.6       1.5      13.0    5.0        12.0      2.3      67      13      80         18 

           (20)      (8.4)    (32)    (13.5)     (16.9)    (3.2)    (42)    (8)     (40)       (9) 

EU         2.8       1.9      12      8          12.3      3.0      60      16      72         24 

           (5.3)     (3.2)    (12)    (8)        (12.2)    (3.0)    (30)    (8)     (24)       (8) 


                  Textiles and Garments Exports from India

  The share of textiles and garments exports in India’s total exports in the year 2003­04 
  stood at about 20 percent, amounting to US $ 12.5 billion. The quota countries, USA, 
  EU and Canada accounted for nearly 70 percent of India’s garments exports and 44 
  percent of India’s textile exports. Amongst non­quota countries, UAE is the largest 
  market for Indian textiles and garments; UAE accounted for 7 percent of India’s total 
  textile exports and 10 percent of India’s garments exports.

  In terms of products, cotton yarn, fabrics and made­ups are the leading export items in 
  the textile category. In the clothing category, the major item of exports was cotton 
  readymade garments and accessories. However, in terms of share in total imports by 
  EU and USA from India, these products hold relatively lesser share than products 
  made of other fibers, thus showing the restrain in this category.


                    Critical Factors that Need Attention

  Though India is one of the major producers of cotton yarn and fabric, the productivity 
  of cotton as measured by yield has been found to be lower than many countries. The 
  level of productivity in China, Turkey and Brazil is over 1 tonne / hector, while in India it 
  is only about 0.3 tonne / hector. In the manmade fiber sector, India is ranked at fifth 
  position in terms of capacity. However, the capacity and technology infusion in this 
  sector need to be further enhanced in view of the changing fiber consumption in the 
  world. It may be mentioned that the share of cotton in world fiber demand declined 
  from around 50 percent (14.7 mn tons) in 1982 to around 38 percent (20.12 mn tons) 




                                                 24
in 2003, while the share of manmade fiber has increased from 44 percent (13.10 mn 
tons) to around 60 percent (31.76 mn tons) over the same period.

Apart from low cost labour, other factors that are having impact on final consumer cost 
are   relative   interest   cost,   power   tariff,   structural   anomalies   and   productivity   level 
(affected   by   technological   obsolescence).   A   study   by   International   Textile 
Manufacturers Federation revealed high power costs in India as compared to other 
countries like Brazil, China, Italy, Korea, Turkey and USA. Percentage share of power 
in total cost of production in spinning, weaving and knitting of ring and O­E yarn for 
India ranged from 10 percent to 17 percent, which is also higher than that of countries 
like Brazil, Korea and China. Percentage share of capital cost in total production cost 
in India was also higher ranging from 20 percent to 29 percent as compared to a range 
of 12 to 26 percent in China.

In India, very few exporters have gone in for integrated production facility. It is noted 
that   countries   that   would   emerge   as   globally   competitive   would   have   significantly 
consolidated  supply   chain.  For   instance,   competitor   countries   like   Korea,   China, 
Turkey, Pakistan and Mexico have a consolidated supply chain. In contrast, apart from 
spinning, the rest of the activities like weaving, processing, made­ups and garmenting 
are all found to be fragmented in India. Besides, the level of technology in the Indian 
weaving sector is low compared to other countries of the world. The share of shuttle 
less   looms   to   total   loomage   in   India   is   1.8%   as   compared   to   Indonesia   (10%), 
Bangladesh (10%), Sri Lanka (12%), China (14%) and Mexico (29%).

The   supply   chain   in   this   industry   is   not   only   highly   fragmented   but   is   beset   with 
bottlenecks that could very well slow down the growth of this sector. As a result the 
average   delivery   lead   times   (from   procurement   to   fabrication   and   shipment   of 
garments) still takes about 45­60 days. With international lead delivery times coming 
down to 30­35 days, India needs to cut down the production cycle time substantially to 
stay in the market. Besides, erratic supply of power and water, availability of adequate 
road connectivity, inadequacies in port facilities and other export infrastructure have 
been adversely affecting the competitiveness of Indian textiles sector.




                                                     25
Measures taken by Government
To promote exports of textiles from the country and to strengthen the textiles sector of 
the   country,   Government   has   taken   a   number  of   measures  from   time   to   time   as 
follows:­

(i)   To   improve   productivity   and   quality   of   cotton   for   manufacture   and   export   of 
competitive downstream textile products, Government has launched the Technology 
Mission   on   Cotton   (TMC).   The   Mission   has   achieved   success   in   increasing   the 
productivity   and   reducing   the   contamination   through   upgradation   of   cotton   market 
yards and modernisation of Ginning & Pressing factories.

(ii) The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) was launched to facilitate the 
modernization   and   upgradation   of   the   textile   industry   both   in   the   organized   and 
unorganized sector. The Scheme has been further fine tuned to increase the rapid 
investments in the targeted sub­sectors of the textile industry. The cost of machinery 
has been further brought down by reducing the customs duty on imports.

(iii) To provide the textile industry with world­class infrastructure facilities for setting up 
their textile units meeting international environmental and social standards, a Public­



                                                  26
Private Partnership (PPP) based Scheme known as the “Scheme for Integrated Textile 
Park (SITP)” has been introduced in August 2005.

(iv)   In   2004­05   Budget,   the   entire   textile   sector,   except   for   man­made   fibre   and 
filament yarn was provided optional exemption from excise duty. In 2005­06 Budget, 
Central Value­aided Tax (CENVAT) on Polyester Filament Yarn has been reduced 
from   24%   to   16%.   These   modifications   in   fiscal   levies   aim   at   attracting   more 
investments for modernization of textile sector.

(v) To facilitate import of state of the art machinery to make our products internationally 
competitive   in   post   quota   regime,  in   2005­06   Budget,  the   customs  duty  on   textile 
machinery has been brought down to 10% except 23 machinery appearing in List 49 
which   attracts   Basic   Customs   Duty   (BCD)   of   15%.   The   concessional   duty   of   5% 
continues to be at 5% on most of the machinery items.

(vi) Government has launched the Debt Restructuring Scheme w.e.f. Sept., 2003 with 
the principal objective to permit  banks  to lend to the textile sector at 8­9% rate of 
interest.

(vii) Government has allowed 100% Foreign Direct Investment in the textile sector 
under automatic route.

(viii)   Government  has  de­reserved  the   readymade  garments,  hosiery  and   knitwear 
from SSI sector so that large scale investments may be encouraged in these sectors.

(ix) National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has been set up to provide the 
leadership role in sensitizing the Industry to the concept of value addition by inducting 
trained   professionals   to   manage   the   industry.   This   has   resulted   in   an   increased 
demand for trained professionals in various sectors servicing the industry.

(x) Government has extended a number of relief measures to textiles exporters such 
as enhanced DEPB & Duty drawback rates, reduced ECGC premium, subvention on 
credit rates, refund of service tax paid by exporters on various services etc.;

(xi)   Apparel   Training   Design   Centres   (ATDCs)   have   been   set   up   throughout   the 
country to cope up the requirement of skilled / semi­skilled manpower for the textile 
industry.




                                                  27
(xii) To take a serious look at Fashion Education in the changing business context of 
the opening up of World Economies, Government is taking steps for:­

   a) Establishing   an   institution   of   National   Excellence   for   imparting   Fashion 
      Business Education with International Benchmarking.

   b) Appointing   a   nodal   agency   for   standardizing   and   benchmarking   Fashion 
      Business Education in the country.

   c) Setting  up  an  Apex  Body  to   train  the   teachers  /   trainers  imparting  Fashion 
      Business Education in the country.




      How to promote Textile exports
For promotion of exports the measures which should be taken up are

          Up gradation of textiles sector
      •
          Simplifying the procedures and bringing down transaction costs; 
      •

          Procedures for obtaining trading licences were also relaxed and simplified 
      •
          and public awareness of licensing rules and regulations increased.

          Reinforce   export   promotion,   especially   with   India,   by   market   studies   to 
      •
          explore the potential for textile industry.



                                               28
Conduct   training   courses/workshops   for   the   private   sector   on   export 
•
    documentation procedures, business negotiation, changes in the world trade 
    scenario and adjustments required. 

    Liaise with the Government of India with regard to the road, transit, customs 
•
    and related facilities in India.

    Promoting innovation  in both products and production processes, through 
•
    increased research and development, the uptake of new technologies, and 
    leading edge design that meets customer needs and expectations;
    Improving   market   access  and   development  through   better   servicing   and 
•
    developing the domestic market, identifying and developing export markets, 
    and   ensuring   interested   domestic   firms   have   appropriate   products   and 
    processes;
    Policy level decision to achieve export target
•
    Woven segment of readymade garment sector and knitwear have been de­
•
    reserved
    Technology Up­gradation Fund Scheme to be pursued till next five years
•
    Liberalization   of   FDI   Policy   with   up   to   100   per   cent   foreign   equity 
•
    participation
    Import   of   capital   goods  at   5%   concession   rate   of   duty   with   appropriate 
•
    export obligation under
    Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) Scheme and clearly laid out EXIM 
•
    policy
    Advance Licensing Scheme with standard input­output norms
•
    Prescribed Duty Exemption Pass Book (DEPB) Scheme credit rates
•
    Duty Drawback Scheme wherein the exporters are allowed refund of the 
•
    excise and import duty loss on raw materials
    Construction   of   Apparel   International   Mart   by   Apparel   Export   Promotion 
•
    Council to provide a world class facility to the apparel exporters to exhibit 
    products and built international reputation
    Setting up of quality checking laboratories
•
    Apparel  Park  for   Exports  Scheme  to   invite   international  production  units 
•
    along with in­house production floors.
    By putting more retail outlets, with better value added products,
•
    By taking the  lowest end  of  the  chain  into  confidence  and building  their 
•
    capability to innovate more and more.
    By upholding the market knowledge at every level that happens at higher­
•
    end that lifts the chain.




                                          29
By building on the expertise for technical textiles that include bed sheets; 
•
    filtration and abrasive materials; furniture and healthcare upholstery; thermal 
    protection   and   blood­absorbing   materials;   seatbelts;   adhesive   tape,   etc 
    which need skilled workers who are not easy to find in an Indian market.
    By keeping a regular research and development department with regards to 
•
    the industry
    By   building   up   the   peripheral   market   with   regular   update   of   new 
•
    accessories.
    By integrating the disorganized sectors into one segment that is functionally 
•
    independent of each other's unwanted stranglehold
    By creating a state owned cargo­shipping mechanism : with rationalizing 
•
    fiscal  duties;  upgrading  technology  through  the  Technology  Up­gradation 
    Fund Scheme (TUFS);
    By setting up of Apparel Parks
•
    By clearing off bottlenecks in the form of regulatory practices
•
    By   replacing   the   indirect   taxes   with   a   single   nationwide   VAT
•
    with liberalization of contract norms for textile and garments units.
    By curtailing the drawback claims falsely boosted invoice value of exports
•
    By effectively installing a price discovery mechanism to track market trend to 
•
    take effective measures before hand a slump




                                       30
Conclusion
It   is   believed   the   quota   regime   has   frozen   the   market   share,   providing   export 
opportunities even for high cost producers. Thus, in the free trade regime, the pattern 
of   imports   in   the   quota   countries  would   undergo   changes.   The   issues  that   would 
govern the market share in the post quota regime would eventually be productivity, raw 
material base, quality, cost of inputs, including labour, design skills and operation of 
economies of scale.

It  is believed  that  quotas,  by limiting the  supply of goods  have kept  export  prices 
artificially high. Thus, it is estimated that there would be price war in the post quota 
regime, with competitive price cuts. The price and quantity effects would depend on 
the efficiency in production process, supply chain management and the price elasticity 
of demand.

Due to the expected fall in prices, developing countries with high production cost have 
little   choice   but   to   compete   head­on   with   the   biggest   low   cost   suppliers.   In   this 
process,   it   is   presumed   that   there   would   be   better   resource   reallocation   in   these 
economies.

It is assumed that quota restrictions would continue beyond 2005 in various forms. It is 
also   widely   recognized   that   removal   of   quota   may   not   directly   provide   easy   and 
unrestricted access to developed country markets. There would be non­tariff barriers 
as well. Standards related to health, safety, environment, quality of work life and child 
labour would gain further momentum in international trade in textiles and clothing.


                    Strategies and Recommendations

Cost competitiveness in Indian garments sector has been restrained by limited scale 
operations, obsolete technology and reservation under SSI policies. While retaining its 
traditional cost advantages of home grown cotton and low cost labor, India needs to 
sharpen its competitive edge by lowering the cost of operations through efficient use of 
production inputs and scale operations. Besides, there are needs for rationalization of 
charges, levies related to usage of export logistics to remain cost competitive.

As   fallout   to   the   quota   regime,   there   would   be   consolidation   of   production   and 
restriction   on   supplying   countries,   which   would   necessarily   mean   improved   scale 


                                                    31
operations. Indian players should  also integrate to  achieve operating leverage and 
demonstrate high bargaining power.

In India, organised players in this sector would require huge investments to remain 
competitive   in   the   quota   free   world.   These   players  need   to   expand   and   integrate 
vertically to achieve scale operations and introduce new technologies. It is estimated 
that the industry would require Rs. 1.5 trillion (US $ 35 billion) new capital investment 
in the next five years (by 2014) to lap the potential export opportunities of US $ 70 
billion. It is estimated that USA and EU together would offer a market of US $ 42 billion 
for Indian textiles and garments in 2014.

Technology   would   play   a   lead   role   in   the   weaving   and   processing,   which   would 
improve quality and productivity levels. Innovations would also be happening in this 
sector, as many developed countries would innovate new generation machineries that 
are likely to have low manual interface and power cost. Indian textile industry should 
also   turn   into   high   technology  mode  to   reap  the   benefits   of   scale   operations  and 
quality. Foreign investments coupled with foreign technology transfer would help the 
industry to turn into high­tech mode.

Internationally, trading in textile and garment sector is concentrated in the hands of 
large retail firms. Majority of them are looking for few vendors with bulk orders and 
hence opting for vertically integrated companies. Thus, there is need for integrating the 
operations in India also, from spinning to garment making, to gain their attention. This 
would also bring down the turn around time and improve quality. Indian players should 
also   improve   upon   their   soft   skills,   viz.,   design   capabilities,   textile   technology, 
management and negotiating skills.

Garment manufacturing business is order driven. It would be difficult for the players to 
keep the workforce full time, even in lean season. This calls for changes in contract 
labour laws.

Logistics and supply chain would also play a crucial role as timely delivery would be an 
important requirement for success in international trade. The logistics and supply chain 
management of Indian textile firms are relatively weak and needs improvement and 
efficiency. China has already created a world class export infrastructure. Given the 
volume of projections for exports by India, it may be necessary to create additional 
export   infrastructure,   especially   investment   for   modernization   of   ports.   In   addition, 
India needs to invest for creating brand equity, supply chain management and apparel 
industry education.




                                                  32
To sum up, the ability of Indian textile industry to take advantage of quota phase­out 
would   depend   upon   their   ability   to   enhance   overall   competitiveness   through 
exploitation of economies of scale in manufacturing and supply chain. The need of the 
hour therefore is to evolve a well chalked out strategy, aimed at improvement in the 
levels of productivity and efficiency, quality control, faster product innovation, quick 
response to changes in consumer preferences and the ability to move up in the value 
chain   by   building   brand   names   and   acquiring   channels   of   distribution   so   as   to 
outweigh the advantages of competitors in the long run.




             Acknowledgement
I, Bhansali Jayantilal, would like to take this opportunity to thank Prof. Shital Mody for 

giving me such an interesting topic for the  assignment which has enlightened my 

knowledge on Export­Import (EXIM) procedure and documentation.


You have always being a source of inspiration and have always guided me throughout 
the assignment. I hope that this will be helpful to me in my near future. 



Thank you madam for all your support provided to me.  




                            References
The information is taken from the following sources:


         
        www.iloveindia.com 
    •


         
        http://www.bis.doc.gov/licensing/facts3.htm.com 
    •


         
        www.indiatimes.co.in
                            
    •




                                                 33
 
    http://www.eximbankindia.com/sme.asp.com 
•


     
    www.infobsnc.com 
•


     
    http://dgft.gov.in
                      
•


     
    http://www.intracen.org
                           
•


    Ministry of Finance, Government of India: Budget 2007­08. 
•




                              34

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how to make India self reliant in textile industry

  • 1. Indian Economy Overview 1. The economy of India is the fourth largest in the world, with a GDP of $3.63 trillion at  PPP, and is the tenth largest in the world with a $691.9 billion at 2004 USD exchange  rates and has a real GDP growth rate of 6.2% at PPP. 2. Growth in the Indian economy has steadily increased since 1979, averaging 5.7%  per year in the 23­year growth record.  3. Indian economy has posted an excellent average GDP growth of 6.8% since 1994  India, the fastest growing free­market democracy in the world, registered a growth rate  of   8.2   percent   in   FY   2004. 4. India has emerged the global leader in software and business process outsourcing  services, raking in revenues of US$12.5 billion in the year that ended March 2004.  5.   Agriculture  has  fall   to   a   drop   because   of   a   bad  monsoon  in   2005.  There   is   a  paramount need to bring more area under irrigation. 6. Export revenues from the sector are expected to grow from $8 billion in 2003 to $48  billion in 2009. 7. India’s foreign exchange reserves are over US$ 102 billion and exceed the forex  reserves of USA, France, Russia and Germany. This has strengthened the Rupee and  boosted   investor   confidence   greatly. 8. A strong BOP position in recent years has resulted in a steady accumulation of  foreign exchange reserves. The level of foreign exchange reserves crossed the US  $100 billion mark on Dec 19, 2003 and was $142.13 billion on March 18, 2005. 9.  Reserve money growth  had  doubled to  18.3% in 2003­04 from 9.2 in 2002­03,  driven entirely by the increase in the net foreign exchange assets of the RBI.  10. Reserve money growth declined to 6.4% in the year 2005. 11. During the financial year 2004­05, broad money stock  increased by 7.4 per cent  12. Economics experts and various studies conducted across the globe envisage India  and China to rule the world in the 21st century. 1
  • 2. Exports The competitive advantage that India enjoys across a range of sectors has led to rapid  increase in India's exports. Back on the robust 23.88 per cent growth in exports during  2006­07, cumulative value of exports during 2007­08 grew by 23.02 per cent to total  US$ 155.51 billion as against US$ 126.41 billion in the corresponding period last year. Spice exports grew by 20 per cent in export volumes in April­May, totalling up to  • 98,570 tonnes as against 82,210 tonnes a year back. Jewellery   exports   rose   22.27   per   cent   during   2007­08   compared   to   the  • corresponding period last fiscal, to reach US$ 20.88 billion. Automobile Exports grew by 22.30 per cent during 2007­08 over 2006­07, with  • Two Wheelers growing by 32.31 per cent and Commercial Vehicles by 19.10  per cent. Software and services exports grew by 26.33 per cent to register revenues of  • US$  27.49  billion  during  April­December  2007  as  against  US$  21.76  billion  during same period last year. It is estimated that annual exports are likely to  grow to US$ 43.89 billion during 2007­08. Foreign tourist earnings have increased by 30.1 per cent during 2007 to touch  • US$ 11.62 billion compared to US$ 8.93 billion in 2006. During January­April  2008, foreign tourists earnings further rose by 28.9 per cent to US$ 4.84 billion. The new fiscal (2008–09) has continued the robust performance of the economy on  the trade front. Exports have risen by a healthy 31.5 per cent to US$ 14.4 billion during  April 2008, as against US$ 10.95 billion during the corresponding period last year.  With such continued buoyancy on the trade front, the Government has set a target of  US$ 200 billion in export earnings for the current fiscal year. WHAT IS ECONOMIC SELF-RELIANCE? Economic   self­reliance   (ESR)   represents   a   different   way   of   thinking   about   the  processes and outcomes of economic development. ESR is an individual's ability to  garner and hold economic resources in excess of their basic needs.  The concept of ESR recognizes that there are individuals who are unable (due to  physical   or   mental   disability)   to   garner   any   surplus   resources,   individuals   with  2
  • 3. surpluses large and secure enough to meet any conceivable need, and individuals at  every point in between. ESR affects the entire spectrum.  ESR   is   also   context   specific;   what   constitutes   basic   needs   for   someone   in   a  developed country will differ drastically from someone in a developing country. But the  core principles of economic development are the same throughout the world.  WHY IS ESR IMPORTANT? Individuals  who  are  economically  self­reliant  have  greater  resilience  in   the  face  of  negative  economic  shocks.  Those  with  greater  resilience  will  suffer  lower  intensity  (less   severe)   or   shorter   duration   (quicker   recovery).   ESR   represents   a   type   of  insurance against the disruptions caused by adverse economic events.  More important than its insurance value, ESR provides a solid platform from which  people  can  develop  and  reach  their  full   human  potential.  Once  people  possess  a  sustainable   surplus,   they   can   turn   their   attention   to   the   pursuit   that   psychologist  Abraham Maslow termed self­actualization: developing and expressing talents, skills,  emotions, and values to the fullest extent.2 It's hard to reach our full potential when we  are worried about our next meal.  3
  • 4. Export-Import Bank of India Export­Import   Bank   of   India   is   the   premier   export   finance  institution   of   the   country,   set   up   in   1982   under   the   Export­ Import Bank of India Act 1981. Government of India launched  the institution with a mandate, not just to enhance exports from  India,   but   to   integrate   the   country’s   foreign   trade   and  investment   with   the   overall   economic   growth.   Since   its  inception,   Exim   Bank  of   India   has   been   both   a   catalyst   and   a   key   player   in   the  promotion   of   cross   border   trade   and   investment.   Commencing   operations   as   a  purveyor of export credit, like other Export Credit Agencies in the world, Exim Bank of  India   has,   over   the   period,   evolved   into   an   institution   that   plays   a   major   role   in  partnering Indian industries, particularly the Small and Medium Enterprises, in their  globalisation  efforts,  through  a   wide  range  of  products  and  services  offered  at   all  stages of the business cycle, starting from import of technology and export product  development to export production, export marketing, pre­shipment and post­shipment  and overseas investment.  THE INITIATIVES  Exim Bank of India has been the prime mover in encouraging project exports  • from India. The Bank provides Indian project exporters with a comprehensive  range of services to enhance the prospect of their securing export contracts,  particularly those funded by Multilateral Funding Agencies like the World Bank,  Asian Development Bank, African Development Bank and European Bank for  Reconstruction and Development.  The   Bank   extends   lines   of   credit   to   overseas   financial   institutions,   foreign  • governments and their agencies, enabling them to finance imports of goods and  services from India on deferred credit terms. Exim Bank’s lines of Credit obviate  credit   risks   for   Indian   exporters   and   are   of   particular   relevance   to   SME  exporters.  4
  • 5. The   Bank’s   Overseas   Investment   Finance   programme   offers   a   variety   of  • facilities for Indian investments and acquisitions overseas. The facilities include  loan to Indian companies for equity participation in overseas ventures, direct  equity   participation   by   Exim   Bank   in   the   overseas   venture   and   non­funded  facilities such as letters of credit and guarantees to facilitate local borrowings by  the overseas venture.  The   Bank   provides   financial   assistance   by   way   of   term   loans   in   Indian  • rupees/foreign   currencies   for   setting   up   new   production   facility  expansion/modernization/upgradation of existing facilities and for acquisition of  production   equipment/technology.   Such   facilities   particularly   help   export  oriented Small and Medium Enterprises for creation of export capabilities and  enhancement of international competitiveness.  Under its Export Marketing Finance programme, Exim Bank supports Small and  • Medium Enterprises in their export marketing efforts including financing the soft  expenditure   relating   to   implementation   of   strategic   and   systematic   export  market development plans.  The Bank has launched the Rural Initiatives Programme with the objective of  • linking Indian rural industry to the global market. The programme is intended to  benefit rural poor through creation of export capability in rural enterprises.  In order to assist the Small and Medium Enterprises, the Bank has put in place  • the   Export  Marketing  Services  (EMS)  Programme.  Through  EMS,  the   Bank  seeks  to   establish,  on  best  efforts  basis,  SME  sector  products  in   overseas  markets,   starting   from   identification   of   prospective   business   partners   to  facilitating placement of final orders. The service is provided on success fee  basis.  Exim Bank supplements its financing programmes with a wide range of value­ • added information, advisory and support services, which enable exporters to  evaluate   international   risks,   exploit   export   opportunities   and   improve  competitiveness, thereby helping them in their globalisation efforts.  5
  • 6.   Indian Textile Industry 6
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  • 8. Indian Textile Industry The term ‘Textile' is a Latin word which cones from the word ‘texere' which means ‘to  weave'. Textile originally referred to a woven fabric but latter on the term textile  as well as the plural textiles refers to fibers, filaments and yarns. Textile industry  occupies a significant position in India. The primary contribution of textile industry : Export earning for the country, textile industry occupies 16% of the country's  • export earning.  Generating   employment,   second   largest   employment   generator   after  • agricultural sector  Industrial   output   sums   up   to   14%   of   total   industrial   production   and  • approximately contributes to 30 % of total export products.  The primary sectors which comprise of the textile industry •  Manmade fiber mill textile mill industry •  Filament yarn industry •  Deconcentrated power loom sector  •  Woolen textile industry  •  Silk industry  •  Jute industry •  Handicraft industry  Textile industry is constituted of the following segments • Readymade Garments • Cotton Textiles including Handlooms (Millmade / Powerloom/ Handloom) • Man­made Textiles • Silk Textiles • Woollen Textiles • Handicrafts including Carpets 8
  • 9. • Coir • Jute Advantages and Limitations of Textile Industry Indian textile industries enjoy certain favorable factors which contribute in retaining its  leading   position   in   national   and   international   scenario.   These   factors   can   be   fully  utilized to ensure further growth and development.  Large raw material base including  cotton,  wool,  silk,  jute  and other manmade  • fibers.  Huge capacity of production  • Easy accessibility to large scale skilled man power  • Entrepreneurship  • Flexible production process  • But there are certain limitations as well which constrict the pace of growth in textile  sector.  The whole industry is split up  • Cotton quality  • Limitation and hazards in procedure of processing  • Labor reform problems  • Infrastructural limitations and bottlenecks  • Major products of textile industries Awnings, textile  • Blankets and  Towels  • Bags or sacks, textile  • Blinds, textile  • Canvas goods, textile  • Fabrics, textile  • Felts ( except floor coverings)  • Glass fiber fabric  • 9
  • 10. Household linen, Lace  • Narrow fabric  • Netting, textile  • Piece goods  • Ropes (except wire ropes)  • Sail cloth  • Sewing thread / String  • Tarpaulin  • Trimmings, textile  • Yarns  • Main aspects of Textile industry Textile apparel which includes clothing and garment  • Textile fabric  • Fibers, yarns and threads  • Textile chemical , Textile products , Textile machinery, Textile services  • Textile Industry in India Textile Industry in India is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. It  holds significant status in India as it provides one of the most fundamental necessities  of the people. Textile industry was one of the earliest industries to come into existence  in India and it accounts for more than 30% of the total exports. In fact Indian textile  industry is the second largest in the world, second only to China.  Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic  requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value­addition at every  stage   of   processing.   Textile   industry   in   India   has   vast   potential   for   creation   of  employment opportunities in the agricultural, industrial, organised and decentralised  sectors & rural and urban areas, particularly for women and the disadvantaged.  Till the year 1985, development of textile sector in India took place in terms of general  policies. In 1985, for the first time the importance of textile sector was recognized and  a   separate  policy  statement  was  announced  with  regard  to   development  of  textile  sector. In the year 2000, National Textile Policy was announced. Its main objective  was: to provide cloth of acceptable quality at reasonable prices for the vast majority of  the population of the country, to increasingly contribute to the provision of sustainable  employment and the economic growth of the nation; and to compete with confidence  for an increasing share of the global market. The policy also aimed at achieving the  target of textile and apparel exports of US $ 50 billion by 2010 of which the share of  10
  • 11. garments   will   be   US   $   25   billion. Strengths of Indian textile Industry India has rich resources of raw materials of textile industry. It is one of the  • largest producers of cotton in the world and is also rich in resources of fibres  like polyester, silk, viscose etc.  India is rich in highly trained manpower. The country has a huge advantage due  • to   lower  wage  rates.  Because  of  low  labor  rates  the   manufacturing  cost  in  textile automatically comes down to very reasonable rates.  India is highly competitive in spinning sector and has presence in almost all  • processes of the value chain.  Indian garment industry is very diverse in size, manufacturing facility, type of  • apparel produced, quantity and quality of output, cost, requirement for fabric  etc. It comprises suppliers of ready­made garments for both, domestic or export  markets.  Weaknesses of Indian textile Industry Indian textile industry is highly fragmented in industry structure, and is led by  • small scale companies. The reservation of production for very small companies  that was imposed with the intention to help out small scale companies across  the country, led substantial fragmentation that distorted the competitiveness of  industry.   Smaller   companies   do   not   have   the   fiscal   resources   to   enhance  technology or invest in the high­end engineering of processes. Hence they lose  in productivity.  Indian   labour  laws   are   relatively   unfavorable   to   the   trades  and   there   is   an  • urgent need for labour reforms in India.  India   seriously   lacks   in   trade   pact   memberships,   which   leads   to   restricted  • access to the other major markets.  Outlook for Indian textile Industry The outlook for textile industry in India is very optimistic. It is expected that Indian  textile industry would continue to grow at an impressive rate. Textile industry is being  11
  • 12. modernized  by  an   exclusive  scheme,  which  has  set   aside   $5bn  for   investment  in  improvisation of machinery. India can also grab opportunities in the export market. The  textile industry is anticipated to generate 12mn new jobs in various sectors. The textile industry is the largest industry of modern India.   It accounts for over 20  percent of industrial production and is closely linked with the agricultural and rural  economy.  It is the single largest employer in the industrial sector employing about 38  million  people.   If employment in allied sectors like ginning, agriculture, pressing,  cotton trade, jute, etc. are added then the total employment is estimated at 93 million.  The net foreign exchange earnings in this sector are one of the highest and, together  with carpet and handicrafts, account for over 37 percent of total export earnings at  over US $ 10 billion.  Textiles, alone, account for about 25 percent of India’s total forex  earnings. India’s textile industry since its beginning continues to be predominantly cotton based  with about 65 percent of fabric consumption in the country being accounted for by  cotton.  The industry is highly localised in Ahmedabad and Bombay in the western part  of   the   country   though   other   centres   exist   including   Kanpur,   Calcutta,   Indore,  Coimbatore, and Sholapur. The   structure   of   the   textile   industry   is   extremely   complex   with   the   modern,  sophisticated   and   highly   mechanised   mill   sector   on   the   one   hand   and   the  handspinning and handweaving (handloom) sector on the other.  Between the two falls  the   small­scale   powerloom   sector.     The   latter   two   are   together   known   as   the  decentralised sector.  Over the years, the government has granted a whole range of  concessions to the non­mill sector as a result of which the share of the decentralised  sector has increased considerably in the total production.   Of the two sub­sectors of  the decentralised sector, the powerloom sector has shown the faster rate of growth.  In  the   production  of  fabrics  the   decentralised  sector  accounts  for  roughly  94  percent  while the mill sector has a share of only 6 percent. Being an agro­based industry the production of raw material varies from year to year  depending on weather and rainfall conditions.  Accordingly the price fluctuates too. India's trade in textiles and its share in world trade can be categorized as follows: India’s Trade in Textiles Annual Growth Rate Compound (CAGR) of different segments (1998) Type India's Share in Type CAGR (1993-98) World Trade Yarn 31.79% 12 Fabric 9.04% Made-ups 15.18%
  • 13. Yarn 22% Fabrics 3.2% Apparel 2% Made-ups 9% Over-all 2.8% 13
  • 14. SECTOR- WISE ANALYSIS (i) Readymade Garments: Readymade Garments account for approximately 45%  of   the   country’s   total   textiles   exports.   During   the   year   2004–2005,   Readymade  Garment exports were US$ 6 billion, recording an increase of 4.1% as compared to  the   corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the Readymade Garment  exports have amounted to US$ 7.75 billion, recording an increase of 28.69 % over the  exports   during   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter   of   2006­2007   the   Readymade  Garment exports have amounted to US$ 2.17 billion, recording an increase of 15.70%  over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006. (ii) Cotton Textiles including Handlooms:  Cotton Textiles i.e. yarn, fabrics  and made­ups (Mill made / Powerloom/ Handloom) constitute more than 2/3rd of our  exports   of   all   fibres/yarns/made­ups.   During   2004–2005,   Cotton   Textile   exports  including Handlooms were US$ 3.54 billion, recording a decline of 1.5% as compared  to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the Cotton Textiles exports  have amounted to US$ 4.49 billion, recording a healthy increase of 26.78% over the  exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­ 2007 the Cotton Textiles including Handlooms exports have amounted to US$ 1.25  billion, recording an increase of 25.70% over the exports during the corresponding  period of 2005­2006.  (iii) Man-made Textiles:  During 2004 –2005, man­made Textiles exports were  US$  2.05  billion,  recording  a   growth  of   12.6%  as   compared  to   the   corresponding  period of 2003­04. During 2005­2006 the man­made Textile exports have amounted to  US$   2.00   billion,   recording   a   decline   of   2.47%   over   the   exports   during   the  corresponding period of 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the Man­ made Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.52 billion, recording an increase of  13.15% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006. (iv) Silk Textiles: During 2004–2005, Silk Textiles exports were US$ 0.59 billion,  recording a  growth  of 9.0%  as  compared to the  corresponding  period  of  2003­04.  During 2005­2006 the silk exports have amounted to US$ 0.69 billion, recording an  increase of 16.37% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005.  During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the Silk Textiles exports have amounted to US$  0.165   billion,   recording   an   increase   of   4.23%   over   the   exports   during   the  corresponding period of 2005­2006. 14
  • 15. (v) Woolen Textiles:  During 2004–2005, woolen Textiles exports were US$ 0.42  billion, recording a growth of 23.4% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­ 04.   During   the   period   of   April­March,   2005­2006   the   woolen   Textile   exports  have  amounted to US$ 0.47 billion, recording an increase 13.63% over the exports during  the   corresponding  period   of   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter  of   2006­2007   the  Woolen Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.114 billion, recording an increase of  11.96% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006. (vi) Handicrafts including Carpets:  During 2004 –2005, handicrafts including  carpet exports were US$ 1.01 billion, showing a decline of 6.6% as compared to the  corresponding   period   of   2003­04.   During   2005­2006   the   handicrafts   exports   have  amounted   to   US$   1.24   billion,   recording   an   increase   of   22.24%   over   the   exports  during   2004­2005.   During   the   first   quarter   of   2006­2007   the   Handicrafts   including  Carpets exports have  amounted to US$ 0.301 billion, recording a marginal decline of  1.31% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006. (vii) Coir:  During  2004  –2005,  coir   exports  were  US$  0.106  billion,  recording  a  growth of 35.7% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­ 2006 the coir exports have amounted to US$ 0.134 billion recording an increase of  27.19% over the exports during 2004­2005. During the first quarter of 2006­2007 the  Coir exports have amounted to US$ 0.032 billion, recording an increase of 10.03%  over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005­2006.  (viii) Jute:  During 2004 –2005, jute exports were US$ 0.276 billion, recording a  growth of 14% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003­04. During 2005­ 2006 the Jute exports have amounted to US$ 0.295 billion, recording an increase of  6.64% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2004­2005. 15
  • 16. Global Scenario The textile and clothing trade is governed by the Multi­Fibre Agreement (MFA) which  came into force on January 1, 1974 replacing short­term and long­term arrangements  of the 1960’s which protected US textile producers from booming Japanese textiles  exports.  Later, it was extended to other developing countries like India, Korea, Hong  Kong, etc. which had acquired a comparative advantage in textiles.   Currently, India  has bilateral arrangements under MFA with USA, Canada, Australia, countries of the  European Commission, etc.   Under MFA, foreign trade is subject to relatively high  tariffs and export quotas restricting India’s penetration into these markets.  India was  interested   in   the   early   phasing   out   of   these   quotas   in   the   Uruguay   Round   of  Negotiations but this did not happen due to the reluctance of the developed countries  like the US and EC to open up their textile markets to Third World imports because of  high labour costs.   With the removal of quotas, exports of textiles have now to cope  with  new  challenges in  the  form of growing non­tariff  /  non­trade barriers  such  as  growing regionalisation of trade between blocks of nations, child labour, anti­dumping  duties, etc. Nevertheless,  it   must  be  realised  that  the  picture  is  not  all   rosy.    It   is  now  being  admitted universally and even officially that the year 2005 AD is likely to present more  of a challenge than opportunity. If the industry does not pay attention to the very vital  needs of modernisation, quality control, technology upgradation, etc. it is likely to be  left behind.  Already, its comparative advantage of cheap labour is being nullified by  the use of outmoded machinery. With the dismantling of the MFA, it becomes imperative for the textile industry to take  on competitors like China, Pakistan, etc., which enjoy lower labour costs.  In fact the  seriousness of the situation becomes even more apparent when it is realised that the  non­quota exports have not really risen dramatically over the past few years.   The  continued dominance of yarn in exports of cotton, synthetics, and blends, is another  cause for worry while exports of fabrics is not growing.   The lack of value  added  products in textile exports do not augur well for India in a non­MFA world. Textile exports alone earn almost 25 percent of foreign exchange for India yet its  share in global trade is dismal, having declined from 10.9 percent in 1955 to 3.23  percent in 1996.   More significantly, the share of China in world trade in textiles, in  16
  • 17. 1994, was 13.24 percent, up from 4.36 percent in 1980.  Hong Kong, too, improved its  share from 7.06 percent to 12.65 percent over the same period.  Growth rate, in US$  terms, of exports of textiles, including apparel, was over 17 percent between 1993­94  to  1995­96.   It  declined  to  10.5 percent  in 1996­97 and  to  5  percent  in  1997­98.  Another disconcerting aspect that reflects the declining international competitiveness  of Indian textile industry is the surge in imports in the last two years.  Imports grew by  12 percent in dollar terms in 1997­98, against an average of 5.8 percent for all imports  into India.   Imports from China went up by 50 percent while those from Hong Kong  jumped by 23 percent.   Global factors influencing textile industry The history of the textile and clothing industry has been replete with the use of various  bilateral   quotas,   protectionist   policies,   discriminatory   tariffs,   etc.   by   the   developed  world against the developing countries. The result was a highly distorted structure,  which imposed hidden costs on the export sectors of the Third World.  Despite the fact  that GATT was established way back in 1947, the textile industry, till 1994, remained  largely   out   of   its   liberalisation   agreements.     In   fact,   trade   in   this   sector,   until   the  Uruguay Round, evolved in the opposite direction. Consequently, since 1974 global  trade   in   the   textiles   and   clothing   sector   had   been   governed   by   the   Multi­fibre  agreement,   which   was  the   sequel   to   an   increasingly  pervasive   quota   regime   that  began with the Short­term arrangement on cotton products in 1962 and followed by  the Long­Term arrangement.  After the successful conclusion of the Uruguay Round in  1994, the MFA was replaced by the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), which  had the same MFA framework in the context of an agreed, ten year phasing out of all  quotas by the year 2005.    Current Scenario Textile exports are targeted to reach $50 billion by 2010, $25 billion of which will go to  the US. Other markets include UAE, UK, Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Canada,  Bangladesh and Japan. The name of these countries with their background can give  thousands   of   insights   to   a   thinking   mind.   The   slant   cut   that   will   be   producing   a  readymade garment will sell at a price of 600 Indian rupees, making the value addition  to be profitable by 300 %. Currently,   because   of   the   lifting   up   of   the   import   restrictions   of   the   multi­fibre  arrangement  (MFA)  since   1st   January,   2005   under  the   World   Trade   Organization  17
  • 18. (WTO) Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, the market has become competitive; on  closer look however, it sounds an opportunity because better material will be possible  with the traditional inputs so far available with the Indian market. At present, the textile industry is undergoing a substantial re­orientation towards other  then clothing segments of textile sector, which is commonly called as technical textiles.  It is moving vertically with an average growing rate of nearly two times of textiles for  clothing applications and now account for more than half of the total textile output. The  processes in making technical textiles require costly machinery and skilled workers. The   application   that   comes   under   technical   textiles   are   filtration,   bed   sheets   and  abrasive materials, healthcare upholstery and furniture, blood­absorbing materials and  thermal  protection,  adhesive  tape,  seatbelts,  and  other  specialized  application  and  products. Strengths India enjoys benefit of having plentiful resources of raw materials. It is one of the  largest producers of cotton yarn around the globe, and also there are good resources  of fibres like polyester, silk, viscose etc. There is wide range of cotton fibre available, and has a rapidly developing synthetic  fibre industry. India has great competitiveness  in spinning sector and has presence in almost  all  processes of the value chain. Availability   of   highly   trained   manpower   in   both,   management   and   technical.   The  country has a huge advantage due to lower wage rates. Because of low labor rates the  manufacturing cost in textile automatically comes down to very reasonable rates. The installed capacity of spindles in India contributes for 24% share of the world, and it  is one of the biggest exporters of yarns in the global market. Having modern functions  and favorable fiscal policies, it accounts about 25% of the world trade in cotton yarn. The apparel industry is largest foreign exchange earning sector, contributing 12% of  the country's total exports. The garment industry is very diverse in size, manufacturing  facility, type of apparel produced, quantity and quality of output, cost, requirement for  fabric etc. It comprises suppliers of ready­made garments for both, domestic or export  markets. 18
  • 19. Weakness Massive Fragmentation: A   major   loop­hole   in   Indian   textile   industry   is   its   huge   fragmentation   in   industry  structure, which is led by small scale companies. Despite the government policies,  which made this deformation, have been gradually removed now, but their impact will  be seen for some time  more. Since most of the companies are small  in size, the  examples of industry leadership are very few, which can be inspirational model for the  rest of the industry. The industry veterans portrays the present productivity of factories at half to as low as  one­third of levels, which might be attained. In many cases, smaller companies do not  have the fiscal resources to enhance technology or invest in the high­end engineering  of  processes.  The  skilled  labor  is  cheap  in   absolute  terms;  however,  most  of  this  benefit is lost by small companies. The uneven supply base also leads barriers in attaining integration between the links  in   supply   chain.   This   issue   creates   uncontrollable,   unreliable   and   inconsistent  performance. Political and Government Diversity: The reservation  of production for very small companies that  was imposed  with an  intention   to   help   out   small   scale   companies   across   the   country,   led   substantial  fragmentation  that distorted the competitiveness of  industry. However,  most of  the  sectors   now   have   been   de­reserved,   and   major   entrepreneurs   and   corporate   are  putting­in huge amount of money in establishing big facilities or in expansion of their  existing plants. Secondly, the foreign investment was kept out of textile and apparel production. Now,  the Government has gradually eliminated these restrictions, by bringing down import  duties on capital equipment, offering foreign investors to set up manufacturing facilities  in India. In recent years, India has provided a global manufacturing platform to other  multi­national companies that manufactures other than textile products; it can certainly  provide a base for textiles and apparel companies. Despite some motivating step taken by the government, other problems still sustains  like various taxes and excise imbalances due to diversification into 35 states and  Union Territories. However, an outline of VAT is being implemented in place of all  other tax diversifications, which will clear these imbalances once it is imposed fully. 19
  • 20. Labour Laws: In India, labour laws are still found to be relatively unfavorable to the trades, with  companies having not more than ideal model to follow a 'hire and fire' policy. Even the  companies have often broken their business down into small units to avoid any trouble  created by labour unionization. In past few years, there has been movement gradually towards reforming labour laws,  and it is anticipated that this movement will uphold the environment more favorable.  Distant Geographic Location: There are some high­level disadvantages for India due to its geographic location. For  the foreign companies, it has a global logistics disadvantage due the shipping cost is  higher   and   also   takes   much   more   time   comparing   to   some   other   manufacturing  countries like Mexico, Turkey, China etc. The inbound freight traffic has been also low,  which affects cost of shipping ­ though, movement of containers are not at reasonable  costs. Lack of trade memberships:  India is serious lacking in trade pact memberships, which leads to restricted access to  the other major markets. This issue made others to impose quota and duty, which put  scissors on the sourcing quantities from India. Opportunities It   is   anticipated   that   India's   textile   industry   is   likely   to   do   much   better.   Since   the  consumption of domestic fibre is low, the growth in domestic consumption in tandem is  anticipated with GDP of 6 to 8 % and this would support the growth of the local textile  market at about 6 to 7 % a year. India can also grab opportunities in the export market. The industry has the potential of  attaining $34bn export earnings by the year 2010. The regulatory polices is helping out  to   enhance   infrastructures   of   apparel   parks,   Specialized   textile   parks,   EPZs   and  EOUs. The Government support has ensured fast consumption of clothing as well as of fibre.  A single rate will now be prevalent throughout the country. The  Indian manufacturers  and  suppliers  are  improving  design skills, which  include  different fabrics according  to different markets. Indian fashion industry and  fashion  20
  • 21. designers are marking their name at international platform. Indian silk industry that is  known for its fine and exclusive brocades, is also adding massive strength to the textile  industry. The industry is being modernized via an exclusive scheme, which has set aside $5bn  for investment in improvisation of machinery. International brands, such as Levis, Wal­ Mart, JC Penny, Gap, Marks & Spencer and other industry giants are sourcing more  and more fabrics and garments from India. Alone Wal­Mart had purchased products  worth $200mn last year and plans to increase buying up to $3bn in the coming year.  The clothing giant from Europe, GAP is also sourcing from India. Anticipation  As   a   result   of   various   initiatives   taken   by   the   government,   there   has   been   new  investment of Rs.50,000 crore in the textile industry in the last five years. Nine textile  majors invested Rs.2,600 crore and plan to invest another Rs.6,400 crore. Further,  India's  cotton  production  increased by 57% over  the  last  five years; and 3  million  additional spindles and 30,000 shuttle­less looms were installed. Forecast till 2010 for textiles by the government along with the industry and Export  Promotion Councils is to attain double the GDP, and the export is likely attain $85bn.  The industry is anticipated to generate 12mn new jobs in various sectors. 21
  • 22. Multi –Fibre Agreement (MFA) On January 1st, 1974, the Arrangement Regarding the International Trade in Textiles,  otherwise   known   as   the   MFA   came   into   force.     It   superseded   all   existing  arrangements that had been governing trade in cotton textiles since 1961.  The  MFA sought to achieve the expansion of trade, the reduction of barriers to trade  and the progressive liberalisation of world trade in textile products, while at the  same time ensuring the orderly and equitable development of this trade and  avoidance of disruptive effects in individual markets and on individual lines of  production in both importing and exporting countries.  Though it was supposed  to be a short­term arrangement to enable the adjustment of the industry to a  free trade regime, the MFA was extended in 1974, 1982, 1986, 1991, and 1992.  Because of the quotas allotted, the MFA resulted in a regular shift of production  from quota restricted countries to less restricted ones as soon as the quotas  began to cause problems for the traders in importing countries. The first three  extensions of the MFA, instead of liberalising the trade in textiles and clothing,  further intensified restrictions on imports, specifically affecting the developing  country   exporters   of   the   textile   and   clothing   products.     Increased   usage   of  several   MFA   measures   tended   to   further   erode   the   trust   which   developing  countries had originally placed in the MFA. The MFA set the terms and conditions for governing quantitative restrictions on textile  and   clothing   exports   of   developing   countries   either   through   negotiations   or  bilateral   agreements   or   on   a   unilateral   basis.     The   bilateral   agreements  negotiated   between   importing   and   exporting   country’s   contained   provisions  relating to the products traded but they differed in the details.   The restraints  under the MFA were often negotiated, or unilaterally imposed at relatively short  intervals, practically annually. The quotas could be either by function or fibre 22
  • 23. Under the MFA, product coverage was extended to include textiles and clothing made  of wool and man­made fibres (MMF), as well as cotton and blends thereof.  With regard to applications of safeguard measures, import restrictions could be  imposed unilaterally in a situation of actual market disruption in the absence of  a   mutually  agreed  situation.    However,  in   situations  involving  a   real   risk  of  market disruption only bilateral restraint agreements were possible. The Textile  Surveillance   Body   (TSB)   was   set   up   to   monitor   disputes   regarding   actions  taken in response to market disruptions. The MFA permitted certain flexibility in quota restrictions for the exporters so that they  could  adjust  to   changing  market  conditions,  export  demands  and  their  own  capabilities. The MFA also provided for higher quotas and liberal growth for  developing countries whose exports were already restrained. The MFA asked  the participants to refrain from restraining the trade of small suppliers under  normal circumstances.  In general, developed countries, under MFA, chose not  to impose restrictions on imports from other developed countries The TSB ensured compliance by all parties to the obligations of bilateral agreements  or unilateral agreements.  It called for notification of all restrictive measures.  A  Textiles   Committee   –   established   as   a   management   body   consisting   of   all  member countries – was the final arbiter under the MFA and worked as a court  of appeal for disputes that could not be resolved under TSB. The eventual outcome of prolonged negotiations was the Agreement on Textiles and  Clothing. Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) The ATC calls for a progressive phasing out of all the MFA restrictions and other  discriminatory measures in a period of 10 years.   In contrast to the MFA, the  ATC is applicable to all members of the WTO. The   Agreement   on   Textiles   and   Clothing   (ATC)   is   made   to   abolish   MFA   quotas  marked   a   significant   turnaround   in   the   global   textile   trade.   The   ATC   mandated  progressive phase out of import quotas established under MFA, and the integration of  textiles and clothing into the multilateral trading system before January 2005. Estimated Gains in USA and EU For China and India 23
  • 24. (US $ Billions) Textiles Clothing Total Markets Present  Future (2014)  Present (2003) Future (2014) 2014 (2003)  Gains in  China India China India China India China India China India USA  3.6  1.5  13.0  5.0  12.0  2.3  67  13  80  18  (20)  (8.4)  (32)  (13.5)  (16.9)  (3.2)  (42)  (8)  (40)  (9)  EU  2.8  1.9  12  8  12.3  3.0  60  16  72  24  (5.3)  (3.2)  (12)  (8)  (12.2)  (3.0)  (30)  (8)  (24)  (8)  Textiles and Garments Exports from India The share of textiles and garments exports in India’s total exports in the year 2003­04  stood at about 20 percent, amounting to US $ 12.5 billion. The quota countries, USA,  EU and Canada accounted for nearly 70 percent of India’s garments exports and 44  percent of India’s textile exports. Amongst non­quota countries, UAE is the largest  market for Indian textiles and garments; UAE accounted for 7 percent of India’s total  textile exports and 10 percent of India’s garments exports. In terms of products, cotton yarn, fabrics and made­ups are the leading export items in  the textile category. In the clothing category, the major item of exports was cotton  readymade garments and accessories. However, in terms of share in total imports by  EU and USA from India, these products hold relatively lesser share than products  made of other fibers, thus showing the restrain in this category. Critical Factors that Need Attention Though India is one of the major producers of cotton yarn and fabric, the productivity  of cotton as measured by yield has been found to be lower than many countries. The  level of productivity in China, Turkey and Brazil is over 1 tonne / hector, while in India it  is only about 0.3 tonne / hector. In the manmade fiber sector, India is ranked at fifth  position in terms of capacity. However, the capacity and technology infusion in this  sector need to be further enhanced in view of the changing fiber consumption in the  world. It may be mentioned that the share of cotton in world fiber demand declined  from around 50 percent (14.7 mn tons) in 1982 to around 38 percent (20.12 mn tons)  24
  • 25. in 2003, while the share of manmade fiber has increased from 44 percent (13.10 mn  tons) to around 60 percent (31.76 mn tons) over the same period. Apart from low cost labour, other factors that are having impact on final consumer cost  are   relative   interest   cost,   power   tariff,   structural   anomalies   and   productivity   level  (affected   by   technological   obsolescence).   A   study   by   International   Textile  Manufacturers Federation revealed high power costs in India as compared to other  countries like Brazil, China, Italy, Korea, Turkey and USA. Percentage share of power  in total cost of production in spinning, weaving and knitting of ring and O­E yarn for  India ranged from 10 percent to 17 percent, which is also higher than that of countries  like Brazil, Korea and China. Percentage share of capital cost in total production cost  in India was also higher ranging from 20 percent to 29 percent as compared to a range  of 12 to 26 percent in China. In India, very few exporters have gone in for integrated production facility. It is noted  that   countries   that   would   emerge   as   globally   competitive   would   have   significantly  consolidated  supply   chain.  For   instance,   competitor   countries   like   Korea,   China,  Turkey, Pakistan and Mexico have a consolidated supply chain. In contrast, apart from  spinning, the rest of the activities like weaving, processing, made­ups and garmenting  are all found to be fragmented in India. Besides, the level of technology in the Indian  weaving sector is low compared to other countries of the world. The share of shuttle  less   looms   to   total   loomage   in   India   is   1.8%   as   compared   to   Indonesia   (10%),  Bangladesh (10%), Sri Lanka (12%), China (14%) and Mexico (29%). The   supply   chain   in   this   industry   is   not   only   highly   fragmented   but   is   beset   with  bottlenecks that could very well slow down the growth of this sector. As a result the  average   delivery   lead   times   (from   procurement   to   fabrication   and   shipment   of  garments) still takes about 45­60 days. With international lead delivery times coming  down to 30­35 days, India needs to cut down the production cycle time substantially to  stay in the market. Besides, erratic supply of power and water, availability of adequate  road connectivity, inadequacies in port facilities and other export infrastructure have  been adversely affecting the competitiveness of Indian textiles sector. 25
  • 26. Measures taken by Government To promote exports of textiles from the country and to strengthen the textiles sector of  the   country,   Government   has   taken   a   number  of   measures  from   time   to   time   as  follows:­ (i)   To   improve   productivity   and   quality   of   cotton   for   manufacture   and   export   of  competitive downstream textile products, Government has launched the Technology  Mission   on   Cotton   (TMC).   The   Mission   has   achieved   success   in   increasing   the  productivity   and   reducing   the   contamination   through   upgradation   of   cotton   market  yards and modernisation of Ginning & Pressing factories. (ii) The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) was launched to facilitate the  modernization   and   upgradation   of   the   textile   industry   both   in   the   organized   and  unorganized sector. The Scheme has been further fine tuned to increase the rapid  investments in the targeted sub­sectors of the textile industry. The cost of machinery  has been further brought down by reducing the customs duty on imports. (iii) To provide the textile industry with world­class infrastructure facilities for setting up  their textile units meeting international environmental and social standards, a Public­ 26
  • 27. Private Partnership (PPP) based Scheme known as the “Scheme for Integrated Textile  Park (SITP)” has been introduced in August 2005. (iv)   In   2004­05   Budget,   the   entire   textile   sector,   except   for   man­made   fibre   and  filament yarn was provided optional exemption from excise duty. In 2005­06 Budget,  Central Value­aided Tax (CENVAT) on Polyester Filament Yarn has been reduced  from   24%   to   16%.   These   modifications   in   fiscal   levies   aim   at   attracting   more  investments for modernization of textile sector. (v) To facilitate import of state of the art machinery to make our products internationally  competitive   in   post   quota   regime,  in   2005­06   Budget,  the   customs  duty  on   textile  machinery has been brought down to 10% except 23 machinery appearing in List 49  which   attracts   Basic   Customs   Duty   (BCD)   of   15%.   The   concessional   duty   of   5%  continues to be at 5% on most of the machinery items. (vi) Government has launched the Debt Restructuring Scheme w.e.f. Sept., 2003 with  the principal objective to permit  banks  to lend to the textile sector at 8­9% rate of  interest. (vii) Government has allowed 100% Foreign Direct Investment in the textile sector  under automatic route. (viii)   Government  has  de­reserved  the   readymade  garments,  hosiery  and   knitwear  from SSI sector so that large scale investments may be encouraged in these sectors. (ix) National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has been set up to provide the  leadership role in sensitizing the Industry to the concept of value addition by inducting  trained   professionals   to   manage   the   industry.   This   has   resulted   in   an   increased  demand for trained professionals in various sectors servicing the industry. (x) Government has extended a number of relief measures to textiles exporters such  as enhanced DEPB & Duty drawback rates, reduced ECGC premium, subvention on  credit rates, refund of service tax paid by exporters on various services etc.; (xi)   Apparel   Training   Design   Centres   (ATDCs)   have   been   set   up   throughout   the  country to cope up the requirement of skilled / semi­skilled manpower for the textile  industry. 27
  • 28. (xii) To take a serious look at Fashion Education in the changing business context of  the opening up of World Economies, Government is taking steps for:­ a) Establishing   an   institution   of   National   Excellence   for   imparting   Fashion  Business Education with International Benchmarking. b) Appointing   a   nodal   agency   for   standardizing   and   benchmarking   Fashion  Business Education in the country. c) Setting  up  an  Apex  Body  to   train  the   teachers  /   trainers  imparting  Fashion  Business Education in the country. How to promote Textile exports For promotion of exports the measures which should be taken up are Up gradation of textiles sector • Simplifying the procedures and bringing down transaction costs;  • Procedures for obtaining trading licences were also relaxed and simplified  • and public awareness of licensing rules and regulations increased. Reinforce   export   promotion,   especially   with   India,   by   market   studies   to  • explore the potential for textile industry. 28
  • 29. Conduct   training   courses/workshops   for   the   private   sector   on   export  • documentation procedures, business negotiation, changes in the world trade  scenario and adjustments required.  Liaise with the Government of India with regard to the road, transit, customs  • and related facilities in India. Promoting innovation  in both products and production processes, through  • increased research and development, the uptake of new technologies, and  leading edge design that meets customer needs and expectations; Improving   market   access  and   development  through   better   servicing   and  • developing the domestic market, identifying and developing export markets,  and   ensuring   interested   domestic   firms   have   appropriate   products   and  processes; Policy level decision to achieve export target • Woven segment of readymade garment sector and knitwear have been de­ • reserved Technology Up­gradation Fund Scheme to be pursued till next five years • Liberalization   of   FDI   Policy   with   up   to   100   per   cent   foreign   equity  • participation Import   of   capital   goods  at   5%   concession   rate   of   duty   with   appropriate  • export obligation under Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) Scheme and clearly laid out EXIM  • policy Advance Licensing Scheme with standard input­output norms • Prescribed Duty Exemption Pass Book (DEPB) Scheme credit rates • Duty Drawback Scheme wherein the exporters are allowed refund of the  • excise and import duty loss on raw materials Construction   of   Apparel   International   Mart   by   Apparel   Export   Promotion  • Council to provide a world class facility to the apparel exporters to exhibit  products and built international reputation Setting up of quality checking laboratories • Apparel  Park  for   Exports  Scheme  to   invite   international  production  units  • along with in­house production floors. By putting more retail outlets, with better value added products, • By taking the  lowest end  of  the  chain  into  confidence  and building  their  • capability to innovate more and more. By upholding the market knowledge at every level that happens at higher­ • end that lifts the chain. 29
  • 30. By building on the expertise for technical textiles that include bed sheets;  • filtration and abrasive materials; furniture and healthcare upholstery; thermal  protection   and   blood­absorbing   materials;   seatbelts;   adhesive   tape,   etc  which need skilled workers who are not easy to find in an Indian market. By keeping a regular research and development department with regards to  • the industry By   building   up   the   peripheral   market   with   regular   update   of   new  • accessories. By integrating the disorganized sectors into one segment that is functionally  • independent of each other's unwanted stranglehold By creating a state owned cargo­shipping mechanism : with rationalizing  • fiscal  duties;  upgrading  technology  through  the  Technology  Up­gradation  Fund Scheme (TUFS); By setting up of Apparel Parks • By clearing off bottlenecks in the form of regulatory practices • By   replacing   the   indirect   taxes   with   a   single   nationwide   VAT • with liberalization of contract norms for textile and garments units. By curtailing the drawback claims falsely boosted invoice value of exports • By effectively installing a price discovery mechanism to track market trend to  • take effective measures before hand a slump 30
  • 31. Conclusion It   is   believed   the   quota   regime   has   frozen   the   market   share,   providing   export  opportunities even for high cost producers. Thus, in the free trade regime, the pattern  of   imports   in   the   quota   countries  would   undergo   changes.   The   issues  that   would  govern the market share in the post quota regime would eventually be productivity, raw  material base, quality, cost of inputs, including labour, design skills and operation of  economies of scale. It  is believed  that  quotas,  by limiting the  supply of goods  have kept  export  prices  artificially high. Thus, it is estimated that there would be price war in the post quota  regime, with competitive price cuts. The price and quantity effects would depend on  the efficiency in production process, supply chain management and the price elasticity  of demand. Due to the expected fall in prices, developing countries with high production cost have  little   choice   but   to   compete   head­on   with   the   biggest   low   cost   suppliers.   In   this  process,   it   is   presumed   that   there   would   be   better   resource   reallocation   in   these  economies. It is assumed that quota restrictions would continue beyond 2005 in various forms. It is  also   widely   recognized   that   removal   of   quota   may   not   directly   provide   easy   and  unrestricted access to developed country markets. There would be non­tariff barriers  as well. Standards related to health, safety, environment, quality of work life and child  labour would gain further momentum in international trade in textiles and clothing. Strategies and Recommendations Cost competitiveness in Indian garments sector has been restrained by limited scale  operations, obsolete technology and reservation under SSI policies. While retaining its  traditional cost advantages of home grown cotton and low cost labor, India needs to  sharpen its competitive edge by lowering the cost of operations through efficient use of  production inputs and scale operations. Besides, there are needs for rationalization of  charges, levies related to usage of export logistics to remain cost competitive. As   fallout   to   the   quota   regime,   there   would   be   consolidation   of   production   and  restriction   on   supplying   countries,   which   would   necessarily   mean   improved   scale  31
  • 32. operations. Indian players should  also integrate to  achieve operating leverage and  demonstrate high bargaining power. In India, organised players in this sector would require huge investments to remain  competitive   in   the   quota   free   world.   These   players  need   to   expand   and   integrate  vertically to achieve scale operations and introduce new technologies. It is estimated  that the industry would require Rs. 1.5 trillion (US $ 35 billion) new capital investment  in the next five years (by 2014) to lap the potential export opportunities of US $ 70  billion. It is estimated that USA and EU together would offer a market of US $ 42 billion  for Indian textiles and garments in 2014. Technology   would   play   a   lead   role   in   the   weaving   and   processing,   which   would  improve quality and productivity levels. Innovations would also be happening in this  sector, as many developed countries would innovate new generation machineries that  are likely to have low manual interface and power cost. Indian textile industry should  also   turn   into   high   technology  mode  to   reap  the   benefits   of   scale   operations  and  quality. Foreign investments coupled with foreign technology transfer would help the  industry to turn into high­tech mode. Internationally, trading in textile and garment sector is concentrated in the hands of  large retail firms. Majority of them are looking for few vendors with bulk orders and  hence opting for vertically integrated companies. Thus, there is need for integrating the  operations in India also, from spinning to garment making, to gain their attention. This  would also bring down the turn around time and improve quality. Indian players should  also   improve   upon   their   soft   skills,   viz.,   design   capabilities,   textile   technology,  management and negotiating skills. Garment manufacturing business is order driven. It would be difficult for the players to  keep the workforce full time, even in lean season. This calls for changes in contract  labour laws. Logistics and supply chain would also play a crucial role as timely delivery would be an  important requirement for success in international trade. The logistics and supply chain  management of Indian textile firms are relatively weak and needs improvement and  efficiency. China has already created a world class export infrastructure. Given the  volume of projections for exports by India, it may be necessary to create additional  export   infrastructure,   especially   investment   for   modernization   of   ports.   In   addition,  India needs to invest for creating brand equity, supply chain management and apparel  industry education. 32
  • 33. To sum up, the ability of Indian textile industry to take advantage of quota phase­out  would   depend   upon   their   ability   to   enhance   overall   competitiveness   through  exploitation of economies of scale in manufacturing and supply chain. The need of the  hour therefore is to evolve a well chalked out strategy, aimed at improvement in the  levels of productivity and efficiency, quality control, faster product innovation, quick  response to changes in consumer preferences and the ability to move up in the value  chain   by   building   brand   names   and   acquiring   channels   of   distribution   so   as   to  outweigh the advantages of competitors in the long run. Acknowledgement I, Bhansali Jayantilal, would like to take this opportunity to thank Prof. Shital Mody for  giving me such an interesting topic for the  assignment which has enlightened my  knowledge on Export­Import (EXIM) procedure and documentation. You have always being a source of inspiration and have always guided me throughout  the assignment. I hope that this will be helpful to me in my near future.  Thank you madam for all your support provided to me.   References The information is taken from the following sources:   www.iloveindia.com  •   http://www.bis.doc.gov/licensing/facts3.htm.com  •   www.indiatimes.co.in   • 33
  • 34.   http://www.eximbankindia.com/sme.asp.com  •   www.infobsnc.com  •   http://dgft.gov.in   •   http://www.intracen.org   • Ministry of Finance, Government of India: Budget 2007­08.  • 34