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Unit 129-130, Sector 4, IMT Manesar, Gurgaon Pin Code:122050, INDIA
Tel: +91-124-4365444
Fax: +91-124-2291666
Website: www.shivshakti.in
eMail: info@shivshakti.in
Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd.
Company: Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd.
Lehar Gupta
Fashion Design Department
National Institute of Fashion Technology
New Delhi
Ph: +91 8826167710
Email: lehargupta@gmail.com
Acknowledgment
I would like to express my heart filled gratitude towards National Institute Of Fashion
Technology, and all the faculty members of Fashion Design Departments, for their support and
encouragement, without whom this project wouldn't be success.
I would also like to thank the team of Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd., namely
Mr. Sanjay Bansal, Director, Mr.Vikash Gupta, Director, Mr. Sandeep Gupta, Director Sales, Mr.
Rajesh Gupta, Director Sales, Mrs.Poonam Sahu, Head Merchandiser, Mr. Deepak Verma
Designer, Mr. Lalit Joshi, Production Manager and the Accounts team.
And all the export House namely Orient Craft Ltd., Matrix Clothing Pvt. Ltd. JB Fabrics, Super
Fashions and Singla Enterprises.
I would also like to thank Mr. Sparsh Gupta and Ms. Anshita Vachher for their support in the
Photo shoot.
Lehar Gupta, Fahion Design Department
Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. is
essentially a ‘Manufacturing company’ that
acts as an intermediary between buying houses
and export houses .For export houses, it
functions as a buyer, where as it acts as a
vendor for the buyers.
Shiv Shakti Embroideries
Pvt. Ltd., a leading provider
of Innovative, Quality
Embroidery Solutions. Since
its inception, over a decade,
they continually support
customers' efforts to produce
finer work, more efficiently
with fewer barriers and
greater accuracy. “ SSEPL
have every element of the
embroidery process together
in a tightly integrated
application suite.”.
The in-house design and
production facilities on
state-of-the-art Swiss made
Saurer machines and Japan
made Tazima machines offer
great products with excellent
value for money.
A fully compliant unit with
in house QC allows one to
focus on core
competency…whereas with
modern machines coupled
with a skilled and dedicated
team ensure one get what
they truly deserve –
excellent quality and
service.
Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. works with
Allied Exports Industries
CTAApparels Pvt. Ltd.
Gaurav International
Impulse International
J.B.Fabrics
Matrix Clothing Pvt. Ltd.
Orient Crafts Ltd.
Richa & Company
Sargam Exports Ltd.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
Singla Enterprises
SSEPL works for all international Buyers
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QUALITY CONTROL
Quality control is a process by which entities review the quality of all factors involved in production. This approach places an emphasis on three aspects:
1. Elements such as controls, job management, defined and well managed processes, performance and integrity criteria, and identification of records
2. Competence, such as knowledge, skills, experience, and qualifications
3. Soft elements, such as personnel integrity, confidence, Organizational culture, motivation , team spirit, and quality relationships.
The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these three aspects is deficient in any way.
Quality control emphasizes testing of products to uncover defects, and reporting to management who make the decision to allow or deny the release, whereas
quality assurance attempts to improve and stabilize production, and associated processes, to avoid, or at least minimize, issues that led to the defects in the first
place
Total quality control
Total Quality Control is the most important inspection control of all in cases where, despite statistical quality control techniques or quality improvements
implemented, sales decrease. If the original specification does not reflect the correct quality requirements, quality cannot be inspected or manufactured into the
product. For instance, the parameters for a pressure vessel should include not only the material and dimensions, but also operating, environmental, safety, reliability
and maintainability requirements.
Quality control in project management
In project management, quality control requires the project manager and the project team to inspect the accomplished work to ensure that it's aligned with the
project scope.
Quality assurance
Quality assurance, or QA for short, refers to a program for the systematic monitoring and evaluation of the various aspects of a project, service, or
facility to ensure that standards of quality are being met.
It is important to realize also that quality is determined by the program sponsor. QA cannot absolutely guarantee the production of quality products,
unfortunately, but makes this more likely.
Two key principles characterize QA: "fit for purpose" (the product should be suitable for the intended purpose) and "right first time" (mistakes should be
eliminated). QA includes regulation of the quality of raw materials, assemblies, products and components; services related to production; and
management, production and inspection processes.
It is important to realize also that quality is determined by the intended users, clients or customers, not by society in general: it is not the same as
'expensive' or 'high quality'. Even goods with low prices can be considered quality items if they meet a market need. QA is more than just testing the
quality of aspects of a product, service or facility, it analyzes the quality to make sure it conforms to specific requirements and comply with established
plans.
Failure testing
A valuableprocess to perform on a whole consumer product is failure testing or stress testing. In mechanical terms this is the operation of a product until it
fails, often under stresses such as increasing vibration, temperature, and humidity. This exposes many unanticipated weaknesses in a product, and the
data are used to drive engineering and manufacturing process improvements. Often quite simple changes can dramatically improve product service, such
as changing to mold-resistant paint or adding lock-washer placement to the training for new assembly personnel.
Statistical control
Manyorganizations use statistical process control to bring the organization to Six Sigma levels of quality, in other words, so that the likelihood of an
unexpected failure is confined to six standard deviations on the normal distribution. This probability is less than four one-millionths. Items controlled often
include clerical tasks such as order-entry as well as conventional manufacturing tasks.
Traditional statistical process controls in manufacturing operations usually proceed by randomly sampling and testing a fraction of the output. Variances in
critical tolerances are continuously tracked and where necessary corrected before bad parts are produced.
SSEPL Quality Vision
During the 1980s, the concept of “company
quality” with the focus on management and people
came to the fore. It was realized that, if all
departments approached quality with an open mind,
success was possible if the management led the
quality improvement process.
The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these
aspects is deficient in any way.
The approach to quality management given here is
therefore not limited to the manufacturing theatre
only but can be applied to any business or non-
business activity:
· Design work
· Administrative services
· Consulting
· Banking
· Insurance
· Computer software development
· Retailing
· Transportation
· Education
It comprises a quality improvement process, which
is generic in the sense it can be applied to any of
these activities and it establishes a behavior pattern,
which supports the achievement of quality.
This in turn is supported by quality management
practices which can include a number of business
systems and which are usually specific to the
activities of the business unit concerned.
In manufacturing and constructions activities, these
business practices can be equated to the models for
quality assurance defined by the International
Standards contained in the ISO 9000 series and the
specified Specifications for quality systems.
Still, in the system of Company Quality, the work
being carried out was shop floor inspection which
did not reveal the major quality problems. This led
to quality assurance or total quality control, which
has come into being recently.
Costs Associated With Manufactured Products
There are myriad potential costs associated with selling a product which may be directly or indirectly
linked to the actual production process. Possible costs include:
· Developing and maintaining supplier relationships.
· Transportation costs, including carrier payment terms; special charges in the realms of
packaging, handling, and loading and unloading; and loss and damage expenses.
· Sales and freight terms that define payment terms, sales, and title transfers.
· Payment terms—options here range from 15 days to as many as 90 days in some industries,
and letter of credit terms provide additional options. These options, stated Cavinato, "often are
not considered by managers in purchasing, traffic, and sales. Instead, most firms mandate these
terms and they become 'boiler plate' in purchase orders, carrier contracts, and invoices. It can
be mutually beneficial to negotiate these terms with suppliers and carriers.
· Costs to receive, process, or make ready, including unloading, counting, inspection, and
inventory costs, as well as expenses associated with disposal of packaging and other product
protection/transportation materials.
· Logistics expenses (warehousing, loading, unloading, handling, inventory control), which are
typically lumped together under the catch-all title "Overhead," despite the fact that costs for
each of these can vary significantly depending on the arrangement.
· Production costs accrued in actual manufacture of goods.
· Warranty costs.
· Quality costs, including costs associated with defective products (what percentage and how far
down the production line), inspections, product returns, chargebacks, cooperage, and storage.
· Lot size costs, including inventory and cash flow costs associated with lots of varying size.
· Supplier inventory.
· Overhead costs of supplier and customer transactions, including billing, collection, payment
preparation, and receiving processes.
· Product improvement and modification, including costs of correcting defects and
standardization of materials and packaging.
· Regulatory/environmental costs associated with meeting federal or state laws and community
expectations on environmentally friendly production and packaging processes.
Compliance ethics
Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd functions according to basic ethics and ensures that human right are
non-violated. No underage workers are employed and working conditions are excellent. Employees
paid holidays, bonuses; clean working conditions and several other perks. The company associates
with factories that are within 'compliant'. The compliance manager at Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt.
Ltd ensures that workers have clean working conditions, proper lighting, easy ext to fire exits, first-aid
facilities etc.
It is also ensured that workers follow all safety measures. Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd strive to
offer the best quality in the business without compromising on moral ground. It believes in constantly
bettering what it has already achieved. The way an organization depends a lot on the people and the
'team effort' that endlessly tolls behind the scenes. Good relationships go a long way in ensuring a
strong understanding between employees.
COSTING
Product costing is the process of tracking and studying
all the various expenses that are accrued in the
production and sale of a product, from raw materials
purchases to expenses associated with transporting the
final product to retail establishments. It is widely
regarded as an extremely important component in
evaluating and planning overall business strategies.
Product costing has undergone a dramatic
metamorphosis in India over the past 50 years. In the
1940s, cost estimates normally included nothing more
than total manufacturing costs. In the late '50s direct
costing was implemented to separate variable [cost of
materials, cost of transportation] and fixed [interest
payments on equipment and facilities, rent, property
taxes, executive salaries] costs. Fifty years ago, when
manufacturing was far less automated than it is today, the
costs of materials, labor and overhead were just about
evenly divided. Now, production of a product's various
components is often so synchronized on highly
automated production lines that there is little or no need
to maintain component inventories; thus, the old costing
formulas, still used by many industries, are no longer
applicable…. Further complicating the costing equation
is the trend in manufacturing to focus more attention on
quality, flexibility and responsiveness, to meet customer
needs. This makes production-line cost analysis more
difficult because each line requires small, but significant,
changes in production techniques." As a result, today's
managers and business owners have found that the
limited information available through older job costing
methods is inadequate for making informed decisions in
the contemporary business environment.
With this in mind,
Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd have increasingly
turned to detailed, long-range examinations that provide
a more accurate representation of a product's true costs
and benefits. The Company are discovering that their
competitiveness is enhanced when purchasing,
manufacturing, logistics, and product design groups
begin using total life cycle costing. "Total life cycle cost
recognizes that the purchase price of an item is only part
of its total cost, just the beginning of a series of costs to
be accumulated by the firm, its downstream customers,
and users until the end of the product's life." This
analysis is further enhanced when Shiv Shakti
Embroideries Pvt. Ltd include suppliers/vendors in the
process, because the costing process can help create a
partnership relationship that enables both parties to move
away from competitive stances on pricing, delivery
dates, etc., toward cooperative initiatives that optimize
the expense of creating and maintaining new products.
Fabric Inspection Procedure
Inspection Standard:
Four-Point System
Defect Classification:
Size of Defect Penalty (in Points)
3 inches or less 1
Over 3, but not over 6 inches 2
Over 6, but not over 9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Amount to Inspect:
At least 100% of the total rolls should be inspected
Definition to Major defects:
A major defect is any defect that, if found in a finished fabric, would classify that fabric as a second.
Some general Major defects:
Manufacturing Process Major Defects
Weaving slubs, hole, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, wrong yarn
Knitting mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub, hole, and press off
Dye or printing out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading
Inspection Process:
· Check the quantity of products available
· Select the rolls to be inspected
· Check the packing way of the products
· Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
· Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the
right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50
yards and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also make
sure to check the end of the role.
· Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find
the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to
effectively find flaws). Sometimes the light may have to be turned off to
see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
· Check the quality of weaving & knitting
· Check the color shading for dyeing and/or printing
· Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece
goods source.
· Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
· Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily
found and noted.
· Check the actual fabric weight per roll
· Check the actual piece length and compared with labeled length
· Record any defects.
Acceptance Point:
Take 40 points per 100 yards as the acceptable defect rate.
Acceptance Criteria (for the shipment):
· <=40 points/100 yards? Or,
· Acceptance of #% bad rolls
(Different buyers have different requirements)
Recently Introduced Sequin Device II Twin
Type
It can embroider a max. of 4 different sizes,
shapes and colors on each head, a wide
variety of stitching patterns as
?Embroidery of 2 types of sequins in random
sequence as desired.
?Embroidery of 2 types of neighboring
sequins in partially overlapping fish scale
pattern
?Superimposed Embroidery of 2 types of
sequins
Superimposed Embroidery of 2 types of
sequins in partially overlapping fish scales
pattern.
Schiffli Embroidery: Manufactured by
applying machine embroidering with front
yarn and back yarn on base cloth using the
Schiffli embroidery machine, which is 21
meters in length and equipped with 744
needles.
?The features that differentiate embroidery:
It has freedom of design and ability to
create luxurious three dimensional effects.
?The 15 yd length machines can also work on
knitted fabrics.
?Modern shearing machine complements the
embroidery machines.
ShivShaktiEmbroideriesPvt.Ltd.
TheCollection
A man's errors are his portals of
discovery.”
James Joyce quotes (Irish novelist, 1882-1941)
Think for a moment about how people look and feel on the first day of a new job. They're excited
and nervous and unusually chatty, or unusually quiet. They haven't made friends yet, and don't know
exactly who they'll end up working with, so they are extra polite to everyone they meet.
Every conversation, every meeting is a learning experience. From finding out where the coffee
machine is—and whether the coffee is worth drinking—to how the telephone system works. Such
days are as memorable as the first day at a new school back when we were kids, when we worried
about being able to find the bathroom.
As I entered Shiv Shakti Pvt. Ltd., I was excited and a bit anxious. Walking into the building on that
first day I had some notion of what I will be doing and what some of the challenges will be, but I
don't feel the real weight of responsibility. I had some goals in mind that I wish to accomplish in the
first few weeks, but you don't know what the biggest barriers will be, or the extent of the problems
you might inherited.
One thing was clear, as an internee my main aim was to learn. The experience there was more than
perfect. The way Designing is done in college is completely different from what I did there. In
college, it has individualistic approach to designing where color, motifs, type of fabric, construction,
production, cost effective everything depends on personal choice. In Industry everything revolves
around the customers because customers are the potential buyers. The sale of the product depends on
the customers.
If you will call your troubles
experiences, and remember that
every experience develops
some latent force within you,
you will grow vigorous and
happy, however adverse your
circumstances may seem to be.”
John Heywood quotes (English Playwright and
Poet, 1497-1580)
Design Methodology
The first step to design for a brand is
We get brief from the buyer, which mentions the theme, season, fabric, colour
and look.
According to this research we start designing.
During week one we did an intensive brand research and made presentations.
Week 2 started with introduction of different types of machine. We had to
understanding how the machine works. The software used for these machines
which helps in transforming Sketches into design reality.
After understanding the machine, this week We had to explore shiffli
embroidery.
Shiffli Embroidery
Schiffli Embroidery is manufactured by applying machine
embroidering with front yarn and back yarn on base cloth using the
schiffli embroidery machine, which is 21 meters in length and
equipped with 750 needles.
The features that differentiate embroidery from other kinds of lace
are its freedom of design and ability to create luxurious three
dimensional effects.
In addition, patterns can be created and modified in a shorter period
of time.
Different Variations of Embroidery
Embroidery is classified into several variations depending on
production methods and materials used.
(1) All-overs
The stitching is performed on the fabric. The fabric remains on the
final product
(2)Bored embroidery
The fabric is perforated by a special device called borers on the
machine in addition to being stitched by needles.
(3) Guipires
The stitching is performed on water-soluble fabric which is dissolved
afterward, allowing only the embroidered yarn to remain on the final
product, thus laces of many styles can be duplicated on the
embroidery machine.
(4)Embroidery on Net
The water-soluble fabric is lapped over the net, on which the stitching
is performed. Later the water-soluble fabric is dissolved allowing the
embroidered stitching and the net to remain.
(5)Color Change Embroidery
Multi-color embroidery produced by a special type of machine called
Color Change Machine, which enables the needles for different colors
to work in turn.
1 2 3 4 5
“If we're growing, we're
always going to be out of our
comfort zone.”
John Maxwell quotes (American Author and
motivational speaker )
Applications
Schiffli Embroidery is used for the following applications
and others.
· Lingerie and foundations
· Formal dresses
· Party dresses
· Home textile
· Automobile Seat covers
There are no failures - just
experiences and your reactions to
them.”
Tom Krause quotes ( motivational speaker, Teacher and
Coach, b.1934)
Production Process of Embroidery
(1) Punching and Sampling
The sketch created by an embroidery designer is first enlarged by 6 times and traced
manually, and the resulting drawing is posted on the digitizer of a special CAD
system called computer punching system. When the outlines of the shapes on the
drawing are digitized by the use of a mouse, the system determines the locations of
the stitching point by referring to pre-specified parameters such as stitch width, then
translate them into machine interpretative pattern data which is output on to a floppy
disk. This process is called punching which is an important element to determine the
quality of embroidery. The data on the floppy is loaded into a sampling machine
whose length ranges from 1 meter to 4 meters. The manufactured sample piece is
shown to the customers for order.
(2) Machine Embroidering (Production)
Once the order is placed, embroidering begins on a 15-yard production machine.
The machine is a large one with 18 meter length, 4.5 meter height, and more than
1000 needles. Two pieces of base fabric are set vertically, one piece on the upper
stage, the other on the lower. Thus two pieces of fabric, each with 14.25 meters
length and 1.5 meter width can be embroidered at once. Since the introduction of
computer numerical control, the positioning of the machine frame can be
performed with higher speed and more accuracy.
(3) Inspection, Mending, Shearing, Finishing
The defects found upon close inspection will be mended by sewing machine. The
floating thread is clipped by the shearing machine and sent to a dying factory to be
finished.
Experience: that most brutal
of teachers. But you learn,
my God do you learn.”
C.S. Lewis quotes (British Scholar and
Novelist. 1898-1963)
Design Process
The Brief
As per the brief given by the brand, we were not
suppose to completely change the existing design
of the brand. A little bit changes here and there
were acceptable but the design should have the
essence of the brand. Earlier it was difficult to
follow the Design Brief because I was more into
developing a complete new look but later I realised
that design should be cost effective. Designs
should be sellable, wearable, cost effective and
production friendly.
Be brave. Take risks.
Nothing can substitute
experience.”
Paulo Coelho quotes (Mystical author, one of
Brazil's most successful novelist)
I understood the basic Corporate Strategy
· Once Styles were selected, sample development started.
· Styles were sent to an export house.
· Meanwhile sourcing for thread quality was done.
· After this, rough body of the styles came from the export house for
pattern approval
· Embroidery swatches of khakas came from export house for approval
· Final samples came.
The only source of knowledge is
experience”
Albert Einstein quotes (German born American
Physicist who developed the special and general
theories of relativity. Nobel Prize for Physics in 1921.
1879-1955)
Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson
afterwards
Unknown
“One of the most important lessons that experience teaches is that, on
the whole, success depends more upon character than upon either
intellect or fortune”
William Edward Hartpole Lecky quotes (Irish Historian and Essayist. 1838-1903)
“Experience tells you what to do; confidence allows you to do it.”
Stan Smith quotes
More than 5000 days of work Experience!
Lehar Gupta, Fashion Design Department, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ph: +91 8826167710, Email: lehargupta@gmail.com

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Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. quality control and assurance processes

  • 1. Unit 129-130, Sector 4, IMT Manesar, Gurgaon Pin Code:122050, INDIA Tel: +91-124-4365444 Fax: +91-124-2291666 Website: www.shivshakti.in eMail: info@shivshakti.in Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd.
  • 2. Company: Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. Lehar Gupta Fashion Design Department National Institute of Fashion Technology New Delhi Ph: +91 8826167710 Email: lehargupta@gmail.com
  • 3. Acknowledgment I would like to express my heart filled gratitude towards National Institute Of Fashion Technology, and all the faculty members of Fashion Design Departments, for their support and encouragement, without whom this project wouldn't be success. I would also like to thank the team of Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd., namely Mr. Sanjay Bansal, Director, Mr.Vikash Gupta, Director, Mr. Sandeep Gupta, Director Sales, Mr. Rajesh Gupta, Director Sales, Mrs.Poonam Sahu, Head Merchandiser, Mr. Deepak Verma Designer, Mr. Lalit Joshi, Production Manager and the Accounts team. And all the export House namely Orient Craft Ltd., Matrix Clothing Pvt. Ltd. JB Fabrics, Super Fashions and Singla Enterprises. I would also like to thank Mr. Sparsh Gupta and Ms. Anshita Vachher for their support in the Photo shoot. Lehar Gupta, Fahion Design Department
  • 4. Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. is essentially a ‘Manufacturing company’ that acts as an intermediary between buying houses and export houses .For export houses, it functions as a buyer, where as it acts as a vendor for the buyers.
  • 5. Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd., a leading provider of Innovative, Quality Embroidery Solutions. Since its inception, over a decade, they continually support customers' efforts to produce finer work, more efficiently with fewer barriers and greater accuracy. “ SSEPL have every element of the embroidery process together in a tightly integrated application suite.”. The in-house design and production facilities on state-of-the-art Swiss made Saurer machines and Japan made Tazima machines offer great products with excellent value for money. A fully compliant unit with in house QC allows one to focus on core competency…whereas with modern machines coupled with a skilled and dedicated team ensure one get what they truly deserve – excellent quality and service.
  • 6.
  • 7. Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd. works with Allied Exports Industries CTAApparels Pvt. Ltd. Gaurav International Impulse International J.B.Fabrics Matrix Clothing Pvt. Ltd. Orient Crafts Ltd. Richa & Company Sargam Exports Ltd. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. Singla Enterprises SSEPL works for all international Buyers ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
  • 8. QUALITY CONTROL Quality control is a process by which entities review the quality of all factors involved in production. This approach places an emphasis on three aspects: 1. Elements such as controls, job management, defined and well managed processes, performance and integrity criteria, and identification of records 2. Competence, such as knowledge, skills, experience, and qualifications 3. Soft elements, such as personnel integrity, confidence, Organizational culture, motivation , team spirit, and quality relationships. The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these three aspects is deficient in any way. Quality control emphasizes testing of products to uncover defects, and reporting to management who make the decision to allow or deny the release, whereas quality assurance attempts to improve and stabilize production, and associated processes, to avoid, or at least minimize, issues that led to the defects in the first place Total quality control Total Quality Control is the most important inspection control of all in cases where, despite statistical quality control techniques or quality improvements implemented, sales decrease. If the original specification does not reflect the correct quality requirements, quality cannot be inspected or manufactured into the product. For instance, the parameters for a pressure vessel should include not only the material and dimensions, but also operating, environmental, safety, reliability and maintainability requirements. Quality control in project management In project management, quality control requires the project manager and the project team to inspect the accomplished work to ensure that it's aligned with the project scope.
  • 9. Quality assurance Quality assurance, or QA for short, refers to a program for the systematic monitoring and evaluation of the various aspects of a project, service, or facility to ensure that standards of quality are being met. It is important to realize also that quality is determined by the program sponsor. QA cannot absolutely guarantee the production of quality products, unfortunately, but makes this more likely. Two key principles characterize QA: "fit for purpose" (the product should be suitable for the intended purpose) and "right first time" (mistakes should be eliminated). QA includes regulation of the quality of raw materials, assemblies, products and components; services related to production; and management, production and inspection processes. It is important to realize also that quality is determined by the intended users, clients or customers, not by society in general: it is not the same as 'expensive' or 'high quality'. Even goods with low prices can be considered quality items if they meet a market need. QA is more than just testing the quality of aspects of a product, service or facility, it analyzes the quality to make sure it conforms to specific requirements and comply with established plans. Failure testing A valuableprocess to perform on a whole consumer product is failure testing or stress testing. In mechanical terms this is the operation of a product until it fails, often under stresses such as increasing vibration, temperature, and humidity. This exposes many unanticipated weaknesses in a product, and the data are used to drive engineering and manufacturing process improvements. Often quite simple changes can dramatically improve product service, such as changing to mold-resistant paint or adding lock-washer placement to the training for new assembly personnel. Statistical control Manyorganizations use statistical process control to bring the organization to Six Sigma levels of quality, in other words, so that the likelihood of an unexpected failure is confined to six standard deviations on the normal distribution. This probability is less than four one-millionths. Items controlled often include clerical tasks such as order-entry as well as conventional manufacturing tasks. Traditional statistical process controls in manufacturing operations usually proceed by randomly sampling and testing a fraction of the output. Variances in critical tolerances are continuously tracked and where necessary corrected before bad parts are produced.
  • 10. SSEPL Quality Vision During the 1980s, the concept of “company quality” with the focus on management and people came to the fore. It was realized that, if all departments approached quality with an open mind, success was possible if the management led the quality improvement process. The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these aspects is deficient in any way. The approach to quality management given here is therefore not limited to the manufacturing theatre only but can be applied to any business or non- business activity: · Design work · Administrative services · Consulting · Banking · Insurance · Computer software development · Retailing · Transportation · Education It comprises a quality improvement process, which is generic in the sense it can be applied to any of these activities and it establishes a behavior pattern, which supports the achievement of quality. This in turn is supported by quality management practices which can include a number of business systems and which are usually specific to the activities of the business unit concerned. In manufacturing and constructions activities, these business practices can be equated to the models for quality assurance defined by the International Standards contained in the ISO 9000 series and the specified Specifications for quality systems. Still, in the system of Company Quality, the work being carried out was shop floor inspection which did not reveal the major quality problems. This led to quality assurance or total quality control, which has come into being recently.
  • 11. Costs Associated With Manufactured Products There are myriad potential costs associated with selling a product which may be directly or indirectly linked to the actual production process. Possible costs include: · Developing and maintaining supplier relationships. · Transportation costs, including carrier payment terms; special charges in the realms of packaging, handling, and loading and unloading; and loss and damage expenses. · Sales and freight terms that define payment terms, sales, and title transfers. · Payment terms—options here range from 15 days to as many as 90 days in some industries, and letter of credit terms provide additional options. These options, stated Cavinato, "often are not considered by managers in purchasing, traffic, and sales. Instead, most firms mandate these terms and they become 'boiler plate' in purchase orders, carrier contracts, and invoices. It can be mutually beneficial to negotiate these terms with suppliers and carriers. · Costs to receive, process, or make ready, including unloading, counting, inspection, and inventory costs, as well as expenses associated with disposal of packaging and other product protection/transportation materials. · Logistics expenses (warehousing, loading, unloading, handling, inventory control), which are typically lumped together under the catch-all title "Overhead," despite the fact that costs for each of these can vary significantly depending on the arrangement. · Production costs accrued in actual manufacture of goods. · Warranty costs. · Quality costs, including costs associated with defective products (what percentage and how far down the production line), inspections, product returns, chargebacks, cooperage, and storage. · Lot size costs, including inventory and cash flow costs associated with lots of varying size. · Supplier inventory. · Overhead costs of supplier and customer transactions, including billing, collection, payment preparation, and receiving processes. · Product improvement and modification, including costs of correcting defects and standardization of materials and packaging. · Regulatory/environmental costs associated with meeting federal or state laws and community expectations on environmentally friendly production and packaging processes. Compliance ethics Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd functions according to basic ethics and ensures that human right are non-violated. No underage workers are employed and working conditions are excellent. Employees paid holidays, bonuses; clean working conditions and several other perks. The company associates with factories that are within 'compliant'. The compliance manager at Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd ensures that workers have clean working conditions, proper lighting, easy ext to fire exits, first-aid facilities etc. It is also ensured that workers follow all safety measures. Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd strive to offer the best quality in the business without compromising on moral ground. It believes in constantly bettering what it has already achieved. The way an organization depends a lot on the people and the 'team effort' that endlessly tolls behind the scenes. Good relationships go a long way in ensuring a strong understanding between employees. COSTING Product costing is the process of tracking and studying all the various expenses that are accrued in the production and sale of a product, from raw materials purchases to expenses associated with transporting the final product to retail establishments. It is widely regarded as an extremely important component in evaluating and planning overall business strategies. Product costing has undergone a dramatic metamorphosis in India over the past 50 years. In the 1940s, cost estimates normally included nothing more than total manufacturing costs. In the late '50s direct costing was implemented to separate variable [cost of materials, cost of transportation] and fixed [interest payments on equipment and facilities, rent, property taxes, executive salaries] costs. Fifty years ago, when manufacturing was far less automated than it is today, the costs of materials, labor and overhead were just about evenly divided. Now, production of a product's various components is often so synchronized on highly automated production lines that there is little or no need to maintain component inventories; thus, the old costing formulas, still used by many industries, are no longer applicable…. Further complicating the costing equation is the trend in manufacturing to focus more attention on quality, flexibility and responsiveness, to meet customer needs. This makes production-line cost analysis more difficult because each line requires small, but significant, changes in production techniques." As a result, today's managers and business owners have found that the limited information available through older job costing methods is inadequate for making informed decisions in the contemporary business environment. With this in mind, Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd have increasingly turned to detailed, long-range examinations that provide a more accurate representation of a product's true costs and benefits. The Company are discovering that their competitiveness is enhanced when purchasing, manufacturing, logistics, and product design groups begin using total life cycle costing. "Total life cycle cost recognizes that the purchase price of an item is only part of its total cost, just the beginning of a series of costs to be accumulated by the firm, its downstream customers, and users until the end of the product's life." This analysis is further enhanced when Shiv Shakti Embroideries Pvt. Ltd include suppliers/vendors in the process, because the costing process can help create a partnership relationship that enables both parties to move away from competitive stances on pricing, delivery dates, etc., toward cooperative initiatives that optimize the expense of creating and maintaining new products.
  • 12.
  • 13. Fabric Inspection Procedure Inspection Standard: Four-Point System Defect Classification: Size of Defect Penalty (in Points) 3 inches or less 1 Over 3, but not over 6 inches 2 Over 6, but not over 9 inches 3 Over 9 inches 4 Amount to Inspect: At least 100% of the total rolls should be inspected Definition to Major defects: A major defect is any defect that, if found in a finished fabric, would classify that fabric as a second. Some general Major defects: Manufacturing Process Major Defects Weaving slubs, hole, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, wrong yarn Knitting mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub, hole, and press off Dye or printing out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading
  • 14.
  • 15. Inspection Process: · Check the quantity of products available · Select the rolls to be inspected · Check the packing way of the products · Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device. · Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role. · Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes the light may have to be turned off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment. · Check the quality of weaving & knitting · Check the color shading for dyeing and/or printing · Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source. · Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric. · Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted. · Check the actual fabric weight per roll · Check the actual piece length and compared with labeled length · Record any defects. Acceptance Point: Take 40 points per 100 yards as the acceptable defect rate. Acceptance Criteria (for the shipment): · <=40 points/100 yards? Or, · Acceptance of #% bad rolls (Different buyers have different requirements)
  • 16. Recently Introduced Sequin Device II Twin Type It can embroider a max. of 4 different sizes, shapes and colors on each head, a wide variety of stitching patterns as ?Embroidery of 2 types of sequins in random sequence as desired. ?Embroidery of 2 types of neighboring sequins in partially overlapping fish scale pattern ?Superimposed Embroidery of 2 types of sequins Superimposed Embroidery of 2 types of sequins in partially overlapping fish scales pattern. Schiffli Embroidery: Manufactured by applying machine embroidering with front yarn and back yarn on base cloth using the Schiffli embroidery machine, which is 21 meters in length and equipped with 744 needles. ?The features that differentiate embroidery: It has freedom of design and ability to create luxurious three dimensional effects. ?The 15 yd length machines can also work on knitted fabrics. ?Modern shearing machine complements the embroidery machines.
  • 17.
  • 19. A man's errors are his portals of discovery.” James Joyce quotes (Irish novelist, 1882-1941) Think for a moment about how people look and feel on the first day of a new job. They're excited and nervous and unusually chatty, or unusually quiet. They haven't made friends yet, and don't know exactly who they'll end up working with, so they are extra polite to everyone they meet. Every conversation, every meeting is a learning experience. From finding out where the coffee machine is—and whether the coffee is worth drinking—to how the telephone system works. Such days are as memorable as the first day at a new school back when we were kids, when we worried about being able to find the bathroom. As I entered Shiv Shakti Pvt. Ltd., I was excited and a bit anxious. Walking into the building on that first day I had some notion of what I will be doing and what some of the challenges will be, but I don't feel the real weight of responsibility. I had some goals in mind that I wish to accomplish in the first few weeks, but you don't know what the biggest barriers will be, or the extent of the problems you might inherited. One thing was clear, as an internee my main aim was to learn. The experience there was more than perfect. The way Designing is done in college is completely different from what I did there. In college, it has individualistic approach to designing where color, motifs, type of fabric, construction, production, cost effective everything depends on personal choice. In Industry everything revolves around the customers because customers are the potential buyers. The sale of the product depends on the customers.
  • 20.
  • 21. If you will call your troubles experiences, and remember that every experience develops some latent force within you, you will grow vigorous and happy, however adverse your circumstances may seem to be.” John Heywood quotes (English Playwright and Poet, 1497-1580) Design Methodology The first step to design for a brand is We get brief from the buyer, which mentions the theme, season, fabric, colour and look. According to this research we start designing. During week one we did an intensive brand research and made presentations. Week 2 started with introduction of different types of machine. We had to understanding how the machine works. The software used for these machines which helps in transforming Sketches into design reality. After understanding the machine, this week We had to explore shiffli embroidery.
  • 22. Shiffli Embroidery Schiffli Embroidery is manufactured by applying machine embroidering with front yarn and back yarn on base cloth using the schiffli embroidery machine, which is 21 meters in length and equipped with 750 needles. The features that differentiate embroidery from other kinds of lace are its freedom of design and ability to create luxurious three dimensional effects. In addition, patterns can be created and modified in a shorter period of time. Different Variations of Embroidery Embroidery is classified into several variations depending on production methods and materials used. (1) All-overs The stitching is performed on the fabric. The fabric remains on the final product (2)Bored embroidery The fabric is perforated by a special device called borers on the machine in addition to being stitched by needles. (3) Guipires The stitching is performed on water-soluble fabric which is dissolved afterward, allowing only the embroidered yarn to remain on the final product, thus laces of many styles can be duplicated on the embroidery machine. (4)Embroidery on Net The water-soluble fabric is lapped over the net, on which the stitching is performed. Later the water-soluble fabric is dissolved allowing the embroidered stitching and the net to remain. (5)Color Change Embroidery Multi-color embroidery produced by a special type of machine called Color Change Machine, which enables the needles for different colors to work in turn. 1 2 3 4 5
  • 23. “If we're growing, we're always going to be out of our comfort zone.” John Maxwell quotes (American Author and motivational speaker ) Applications Schiffli Embroidery is used for the following applications and others. · Lingerie and foundations · Formal dresses · Party dresses · Home textile · Automobile Seat covers
  • 24.
  • 25. There are no failures - just experiences and your reactions to them.” Tom Krause quotes ( motivational speaker, Teacher and Coach, b.1934) Production Process of Embroidery (1) Punching and Sampling The sketch created by an embroidery designer is first enlarged by 6 times and traced manually, and the resulting drawing is posted on the digitizer of a special CAD system called computer punching system. When the outlines of the shapes on the drawing are digitized by the use of a mouse, the system determines the locations of the stitching point by referring to pre-specified parameters such as stitch width, then translate them into machine interpretative pattern data which is output on to a floppy disk. This process is called punching which is an important element to determine the quality of embroidery. The data on the floppy is loaded into a sampling machine whose length ranges from 1 meter to 4 meters. The manufactured sample piece is shown to the customers for order.
  • 26. (2) Machine Embroidering (Production) Once the order is placed, embroidering begins on a 15-yard production machine. The machine is a large one with 18 meter length, 4.5 meter height, and more than 1000 needles. Two pieces of base fabric are set vertically, one piece on the upper stage, the other on the lower. Thus two pieces of fabric, each with 14.25 meters length and 1.5 meter width can be embroidered at once. Since the introduction of computer numerical control, the positioning of the machine frame can be performed with higher speed and more accuracy. (3) Inspection, Mending, Shearing, Finishing The defects found upon close inspection will be mended by sewing machine. The floating thread is clipped by the shearing machine and sent to a dying factory to be finished.
  • 27. Experience: that most brutal of teachers. But you learn, my God do you learn.” C.S. Lewis quotes (British Scholar and Novelist. 1898-1963) Design Process The Brief As per the brief given by the brand, we were not suppose to completely change the existing design of the brand. A little bit changes here and there were acceptable but the design should have the essence of the brand. Earlier it was difficult to follow the Design Brief because I was more into developing a complete new look but later I realised that design should be cost effective. Designs should be sellable, wearable, cost effective and production friendly.
  • 28.
  • 29. Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.” Paulo Coelho quotes (Mystical author, one of Brazil's most successful novelist) I understood the basic Corporate Strategy · Once Styles were selected, sample development started. · Styles were sent to an export house. · Meanwhile sourcing for thread quality was done. · After this, rough body of the styles came from the export house for pattern approval · Embroidery swatches of khakas came from export house for approval · Final samples came.
  • 30.
  • 31. The only source of knowledge is experience” Albert Einstein quotes (German born American Physicist who developed the special and general theories of relativity. Nobel Prize for Physics in 1921. 1879-1955) Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards Unknown “One of the most important lessons that experience teaches is that, on the whole, success depends more upon character than upon either intellect or fortune” William Edward Hartpole Lecky quotes (Irish Historian and Essayist. 1838-1903) “Experience tells you what to do; confidence allows you to do it.” Stan Smith quotes
  • 32. More than 5000 days of work Experience!
  • 33. Lehar Gupta, Fashion Design Department, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ph: +91 8826167710, Email: lehargupta@gmail.com