Dr. Alan Kling explains restoring dry hair through conditioning treatments in Vogue Magazine.

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2. /
-
there are as-
..
rna
tress treatnre" ts
n
there are hairs on the h
Amy Taran Asttey gets
to the root of them
A s a lifelong low-maintenance maven,
I am curious, if a bit skeptical, about
the slew of customized deep-condi-
tioning hair treatments currently cropping
up at Manhattan's cutting-edge salons .
Clairriing to aid not just the appearance but
the health of the hair and scalp, the latest
treatments take that trendy beauty buzzword
natural very seriously; far from being ultra-
scientific, these back-to-basics treatments
rely on earthy ingredients and rival such cozy,
low-tech hair-<:are lore as mayonnaise masks
and rum rinses for old-fashioned homemade
appeal. For do-it-yourselfers, drugstore
shelves are also overflowing with a confus-
ing melange of similar promise-anything
products, all clairriing to repair whatever ails
th! hair. From fighting the frizzies and split
ends to restoring shine to lackluster locks
and boosting the volume in fme, flat hair, the
heady promises are encouraging enough to
excite any would-be Rapunzel. .
Do the various magic elixirs on the market
contain more hype than hope? Can a weekly
dollop of mashed-up mango tame a mane
that's been damaged by such processes as col-
oring and perming? Will a regular seaweed
wrap really render split ends null and void?
I start my inquiry armed with the facts.
New York dermatologist Dr. Alan Kling ex-
plains that while moisture can be temporar-
ily restored to dry hair via a conditioning treat-
ment, damage (caused by perming, coloring,
straightening; heated styling tools; over-
brushing; and cold or dry environments) can-
not be repaired. Since haiT cells are dead and
cannot rejuvenate themselves, scissors, Dr. Alan Kling
says, are the only permanent solution to split
ends, while treating chemical damage .. 218
216

3. beauty
i
simply requires patience until the healthy new hair grows in. (I think of residue from styling products and the grime of New York, constitutes an
blond bombshell Jean Harlow, who owed her famous platinum locks to aII-{)ut attack on my hair. I
C1orox, Lux flakes, and ammonia. No wonder that by the age of 23 she The counterattack begins. Mackin first removes buildup with a clar-
was usually filmed wearing a wig.) ifying shampoo, then he mixes a custom-made concoction of mint-col-
Miracle claims notwithstanding, dermatologists are reluctant to en- ored eucalyptus (said to "revitalize" by stimulating blood flow in the
dorse external hair treatments. "They have a temporary effect only," scalp) topped with a frothy conditioning foam that includes seaweed.
cautions Dr. Alan Kling who decribes the outer layer of the hair as resembling ("Marine nutrients nourish all hair types; I put them in every treat-
roof shingles; ideally, the cells should lie flat and smooth, giving hair shine ment. ") My head, tingling from the cooling sensation of eucalyptus and
by evenly reflecting light. If the cuticle layer is damaged, however, the an invigorating scalp massage, is placed for about 20 minutes under a
"shingles" separate, causing hair to look dull and rough. A conditioner steam machine that resembles an old-fashioned hair dryer; this is said
or special treatment that coats the shaft smooths those rough cells, tem- to "open the cuticles to allow penetration." The vibrant redhead sitting
porarily "filling in" damaged areas and making hair at least look good. at the station next to me confides that she never misses her monthly ap-
Since a conditioning treatment makes hair less prone to tangles, comb- pointment with Mackin; he keeps her colored hair "pseudovirgin."
ing and styling may be easier, and that, says Dr. Alan Kling helps prevent further Ninety minutes and $55 later, I leave with ultraclean, lightly scent-
damage. (Dr. Alan Kling does concede the "psychotherapeutic" benefits of a few ed hair, shiny and silky as a baby's. Later that day, the moist, hot air in
hours of salon pampering.) my aerobics class seems to replicate the effect of the steamer, and my
I decide to investigate for myself by embarking on a treatment tour hair is comically reactivated. While I perform leg lifts in a strong-smelling
of duty that takes me to several up-to-the-minute Manhattan salons cloud of eucalyptus, my hair becomes gangster slick and slimy to the
and hair clinics and leaves my bathroom stocked with more masks touch; after showering, to my relief, it reverts to pregym condition.
than a costume shop. After the Peter Coppola Salon I move a few blocks up Madison A v-
As I head off to visit the first of my four scheduled salons, I am ap- enue (stomping ground of the buffed and polished crowd) to French
prehensive. I've never really liked having my sensitive skin slathered in clinic J. F . Lazartigue, an acknowledged mecca for hair. Parisian tech-
goo; my mind's-eye image of egg yolks and honey coating my scalp is nician Bernard Virginie plucks several strands from my head for analy-
less than appealing. I also wonder if my short, unprocessed hair (nev- sis. Placing them under a microviewer that magnifies the hair 160 times,
er colored and stick straight) is perhaps actual- Virginie tells me that the main concerns he encounters are lack of moi&-
ly too healthy to register any benefit ture, lack of volume, and hair loss. While I don't appear to suffer from
from intensive treatment. I am any of these common hair crises, my strands are alarmingly unlike the
quickly disabused of this notion. flawless specimen he has displayed on the microviewer for my eluci-
"Anyone with a hair on her dation. He confums my suspicion of imperfection.
head needs treatment!" de- "Your scalp is very oily; the sebaceous glands are overactive. Excess
clares Christopher Mackin, sebum is caused by stress, and without early prevention the hair can ac-
hair-guru-in-residence at tually fall out over time." Although this news is delivered in charming
Manhattan's Peter Coppo- French-accented English, it doesn't lessen the blow; I have a vision of my-
la Salon and a true believer. self in ten years, nerve-racked and bald. (Dr. Alan Kling assures me that baldness
(Mackin comes by his pro- is a genetic, hormonally based condition; only catastrophic stress'could
fession naturally: Growing trigger hair loss.) Virginie tells me that the anxiety-activated oily scalp is
up Brady Bunch style, he a common afTIiction of nervous New Yorkers, but at least Americans
regularly helped wash the shampoo frequently. "In France some people only shampoo once or
, heads of his seventeen twice a week," he laments. (Given this piece of information I am amazed
younger siblings.) "Just that such a shampoo-indifferent population has made posh Lazartigue a
like a facial, once a month household name in France.) Virginie emphasizes how important it is to
you should also rid the hair clean the scalp, since it is the source of oil, and instructs me to gently but
and scalp of impurities like firmly massage the head with fmger pads (not nails) when shampooing.
product and environmen- Once we get past the serious stuff, the $150 Lazartigue treatment
tal residue." Both a lack of is sheer sybaritic bliss, featuring a sleep-inducing head massage and
the scalp's natural oils, he lots ofluxurious products. First Virginie dabs a cleansing green Ma-
, tells me, and external factors rine Mask on those offending greasy roots with a little paintbrush. Next
J (like harsh shampoos and my scalp is dotted with some refreshing propolis jelly ("a natural an-
chemical processes) can strip tiseptic derived from bees that treats the sebaceous gland") while the
the hair shaft of moisture, re- tips of my hair are treated to moisturizing carrot oil.
sulting in dry, brittle hair that I am told my hair "absorbs" well and once again am left under the
lacks elasticity and shine. Al- steamer. After receiving a thorough washing with Marine Shampoo, fol-
though I am not one of lowed by the impressive-sounding Vita Cream Conditioner with milk
those monthly facial proteins and a dose of the mysterious Liposome Hair Energizer ("to treat
seekers he mentioned, oil glands and the bulb of the hair shaft"), I emerge with hair to rival the
I'm willing to give it a Lazartigue poster girl's. Too bad it's not long enough to toss a bit.
go; even to a beauty From fruits and vegetables to seaweed and coconut oil, the earthy
minimalist his enthu- ingredients I've encountered along the way read more like a menu than
siasm is infectious. I a scientific experiment in beauty boosting, and the wholesome "hair
am furthermore food" treatments ($65) whipped up by Richard Cordoba at Manhat-
convinced that my tan's Le Salon Bruno are truly straight out of the kitchen. Growing up
daily regime of in Bogota, Colombia, Cordoba learned from his mother how to use
blow-drying, plus local organic produce for cosmetic purposes, and he literally ~220
218 V OGUE DE C EMBER 1 9 93

4. beauty
DISCOVER TODAY'S shares the fruits of his knowledge with his grateful customers. Not unlike the manufactur-
ers of many sumptuous modem hair treatments, Cordoba believes nature supplies " every-
#1 DECORATING thing you need to detoxify and beautify your hair."
With my scalp swathed in an edible headdress of avocado, honey. and yogurt, I sit un-
SECRET der yet another steamer. (This one is the best- it emits the fragrant, soothing scent of rost>-
mary.) While I am lulled by the warm steam, Cordoba shares his New Age philosophy with
me. It includes such homey advice as replacing my current styling pomade with flat beer
... and how to put it to magical ("it has the same effect"), rinsing blond tresses in rosemary tea ("a natural shine enhancer"),
use in your own home. and combating dandruff with a strawberry paste. I'm somewhat dubious, but it's true that
after the moisture-rich mask is removed and my hair is rinsed in cool rosemary tea, it glim-
Decorating with Paper shows how mers and is free offlyaways. And it smells like a fruit bar.
to use glorious papers to rival the Massage, a mainstay of most salon treatments, is said to stimulate the scalp and dislodge
most spectacular effects of paint. dead cells. For a spa-quality rubdown, try the Stress-Relieving Treatment at the Aveda Es-
plaster. fabric - at a fraction of thetique, reasonably priced at $40. (Call800j328-0849 for Aveda concept salons around
the country.) After an application of A veda Purescriptions for oily hair and scalp and a few
the time and cost! Packed with
drops of Aveda Energizing Nutrients for exfoliation, my scalp is massaged; this is followed
projects. this breakthrough new
by a marvelous 20-minute neck, shoulder, and arm massage while my slicked hair cooks
guide makes it easy to:
under a warm towel. Aesthetician Rafael Virguez has to wake me up for my shampoo,
~ Add fabulous details to doors.
which is given while I relax supine on a padded table. When I admire the fragrances of the
windows. walls ~ Turn ordinary
Aveda Camomile Shampoo ("great for enhancing highlights in both natural and color-treat-
objects into brilliant. one-of-a-kind ed blonds") and the Aveda Curessence conditioner he uses, Virguez explains that there are
accessories ~ Turn mirrors. no synthetic ingredients in A veda products, only distilled plant and flower essences-hence
tables. screens. lamps into heirloom the alluring aromas. I leave with lovely shiny hair and a looser neck too.
treasures ~ Turn a plain room By now my hair has been coated in just about anything you can put in a blender, and I
into a gazebo .. .or romantic decide to check in with New York dermatologist Karen Landau. "The notion of 'nourish-
Victorian refuge! With step-by-step ing' the hair is misleading," she says, when told of my exploits. "Dead protein can't be nour-
directions. tips. tricks. fast new ished." But what about my wonderfully sleek hair? Like Dr. Alan Kling, she is adamant that whether
decoupage methods. An A-Z guide the hair is doused in fruit juices or stearalkonium chloride (the main ingredient in most com-
to tools. terms. techniques. Plus mercial conditioners) it's a temporary, not a permanent, improvement.
over 125 inspiring photographs. By my second week of salon hopping, my hair is silky, but I am disappointed that the re-
sults last only a day or two. I want my hair to look constantly coddled, but who has the time
or money for more than the infrequent pampering session with a pro? This is where what
each of my treatment technicians solemnly calls "home maintenance" comes in.
I equip my bathroom with the latest news in hair care, the leave-in conditioner. Worked
through the hair after shampooing, they save time by skipping the rinsing step that regular
conditioners require and offer all-day treatment benefits. Leave-ins can also be more effi-
cient and less messy to use than hot oil treatments and hair masks. (It's very modem to save
time; nevertheless I am attracted to the all-girl glamour oflounging around my apartment
for the evening in a white terry robe, hair coated in a purple C1ayPac ClayOn moisturizing
mask by A1tobella, $12.90.)
Some of the best weapons in my at-home arsenal: Aveda's lightweight, bodybuilding
10 save 20% on new leave-in Elixir ($8); Mastey Liquid Pac Leave-In Hair Reconstuctor ($7.50); Matrix's Es-
sential Therapy Leave-In Conditioner ($7.97), which didn't weigh down my fine hair; and
Decorating with Paper... Sebastian's new Potion 9 ($ I 2.50), which, with its nine botanical extracts, left my hair soft
call toU free even after blow-drying. The French company Phytotherathrie has an excellent static-fight-
800·426·9922 ing leave-in cream called Phyto 7 ($15) for dry or dehydrated hair. Senscience Inner Re-
pair Leave-In Conditioner ($8) is said to repair damage by replicating the fluids found in
the inner core of healthy hair. It sounds a bit scientific, but one application and I am con-
Or send check or money order vinced- my hair has volume and shine and lies smooth.
The Tresemme professional line by Alberto Culver is now available at retail and offers
for: $28* for the HARDCOVER
four new conditioners. I am enthusiastic about European Overnight Ends Replenisher
edition (that's 20% off the cover
($4.49) and European SeIfcWarming Shine Conditioner ($4.49), which heats up in the palm
price of $35) plus $3 for shipping
of the hand and leaves hair lively. ..
and handling; or $19* for the C1airol's new ColorHold ColorCare System is a boon to those with color-treated hair.
SOFfCOVER edition (that's over The ColorSealing Conditioner ($4.99) has a sealer that helps lock in color and provides rinse-
20% off the cover price of $24) out moisturization; a bottle-blond friend whom I've pressed into service tells me her hair feels
plus $2.50 for shipping and "rich" after using it. For daily use, the same chemically dependent friend finds Neutrogena
handling to: Conditioner for Permed or Color Treated Hair ($6.15) a good antidote for dryness.
The Conde Nast Collection After putting my own head to the test I can safely claim status as a conditioning con-
Box 10214. Dept. 883041 vert. While I may occasionally make pilgrimages to the hair gurus for tender loving care,
Des Moines. IA 50336. my new-found posse of gently priced at-home products promises to serve me well. And
even if all that shiny good health is just an illusion, as the dermatologists insist, I still yearn
for long locks to show it off.. VOGUE BEAUTY ~222
220 V O G UE OE CE MBER 1 993