This document discusses three common methods of pattern making: drafting, draping, and flat paper pattern making. Drafting involves measuring the body and marking measurements on paper to construct patterns. Draping involves shaping fabric directly on a dress form or body. Flat pattern making develops a basic fitted sloper pattern that can then be manipulated to create different fashion designs. The document provides details on each of these three pattern making methods.

1. S.Manohari, msc.,
Assistant professor,
Department of fashion technology and costume designing,
Bon secours college for women,
Thanjavur.
METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING

2. Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
 Drafting
 Draping
 Flat paper pattern making

3. Drafting

4. Drafting
 It involves measurements derived from sizing
systems or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form.
 Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on,
and ease allowances are marked on paper and
construction lines are drawn to complete the
pattern.
 Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or
design patterns.

5. MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of
chest.
Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.
High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the
hips.
Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level
Shoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of
neck.
Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm
level.
Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder
blades.
Neck – measure around base of neck.

6. Tools use for Drafting
 A: Tape Measure
 B: Seam Ripper
 C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
 D: Tracing Wheel
 E: Rotary Cutter

7. Continue…….
.
G: Tracing Paper
F: Fabric Scissors
H: Scotch Tape
I: Clear Rulers
J: Right Angle
K: Curved Rulers

8. Draping


9. Draping
 It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece
of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape,
creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern.
 Ease allowances for movement are added to
make the garment comfortable to wear.
 However, it is more expensive and time
consuming than flat pattern making.
 Draping can be made on a Human body or on a
stand.
 Advantage of draping is that the designer can see
the overall design effect of the finished garment
on the body form before the garment piece is cut
and sewn.

10. Flat Pattern Making

11. Flat Pattern Making
 It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern
with comfort ease to fit a person or body form.
 A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
 It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just
enough ease for movement and comfort. Five basic
pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing.
 They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice
back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a
fitted skirt front and back with darts.
 However, as fashion changes frequently women’s
styles fluctuate frequently.
 These basic slopers are then manipulated to create
fashions.

12. Flat Pattern Making
 Nowadays draping is also tested by Computer aid
techniques.
 A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which
facilitates its manipulations to various styles.
 It has no design interest, only construction lines
are marked on it.
 It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper
should be such that adjustments can be
introduced easily.
 For a good pattern making, accurate
measurements are of utmost importance.

13. THANK YOU