1. Growing Great Garlic
Pam Dawling
Twin Oaks Community, Central Virginia
Author of Sustainable Market Farming
SustainableMarketFarming.com
facebook.com/SustainableMarketFarming

2. Garlic is a great
crop!
It’s not just bulbs!
Bulbs (and braids)
Garlic Scapes
Garlic Scallions
(shown here)

3. Stages of Growth –
Garlic is day-length sensitive
• No control over when garlic starts to make bulbs, only over how large and
healthy the leaves are when bulbing starts, and how large the final bulbs
can be.
• Bulbs start forming and no more leaf growth happens once day-length
exceeds 13 hours, with air temperatures above 68°F (20°C) and soil
temperatures over 60°F (15.5°C) as secondary triggers.
• 12 hours of daylight on the spring equinox. After that, the farther north
you go, the longer the daylength is. Northern latitudes reach 13 hours of
daylight before southern ones, but garlic does not start bulbing there at 13
hours because temperatures are not yet high enough. Temperatures cause
harvest dates to be earlier in warmer zones than in cooler areas at the
same latitude.
• It is important to establish garlic in good time so roots and leaf growth are
as big as possible before the plants start making bulbs. Small plants on the
trigger date will only make small bulbs!

4. Drying down
Hot weather above 91°F (33°C) ends bulb growth and drying down starts. It is
important to get plenty of good rapid growth before hot weather arrives.
Garlic can double in size in its last month of growth, and removing the scapes
(the hard central stem) of hardneck garlic can increase the bulb size 25%.

5. Avoid confusion
• Hardneck (with flower stalks or scapes, bigger
cloves, easier to peel, more cold-tolerant).
• Softneck (no scapes, easier to braid, stores
later, smaller cloves, harder to peel).
• Asiatics and Creoles sometimes have scapes.

6. Planting Time
• Fall-planting is best.
• 9 am soil temperature 50°F (10°C) at 4” (10
cm) deep. We plant in early November. If the
fall is unusually warm, wait a week.
• Softneck garlic can be planted in the very early
spring if you have to (reduced yields). Give
your seed garlic 40 days at or below 40°F
(4.5°C) before spring planting, or the bulbs will
not differentiate (divide into separate cloves).

7. Garlic emerges quickly in the fall
Roots grow whenever the ground is not frozen
Tops grow whenever the temperature is above 40°F (4.5°C).

8. Growing in Winter
• Get enough top growth in fall so garlic has a roaring start
in the spring, but not so much that the leaves cannot
endure the winter.
• If garlic gets frozen back to the ground in the winter, it
can re-grow, and be fine. If it dies back twice in the
winter, the yield will be lower than it might have been if
you had been luckier with the weather.
• When properly planted, garlic can withstand winter lows
of -30°F (-35°C).
• If planted too early, too much tender top growth
happens before winter.
• If planted too late, there won’t be enough root growth
before winter, and you’ll get a lower survival rate and
smaller bulbs.

9. Storing Seed Stock
• Store at 50-60°F (10-15°C). Don’t
refrigerate.
• Avoid temperatures of 40-50°F
(4.5-10°C) during the summer, as
this causes sprouting before you
are ready to plant.
• We have been carefully selecting
seed stock for about 20 years
now, and it does great.
• Cloves for planting should be
from large (but not giant) bulbs
and be in good condition.

10. How Much to Plant
• Yield ratio about 1:6 or 1:7 with
hardnecks.
• Makes sense - you are planting one clove
to get a bulb of 6-7 cloves. If you get 1:12
you are doing very well indeed.
• Divide the amount you intend to produce
by 6 to figure out how much to plant.
• Single rows, 8 lbs (3.6 kg) of hardneck or
4 lbs (1.8 kg) of softneck per 100’ (30 m).
• Large areas 750-1000 lbs/ac (842-1122
kg/ha) are needed for plantings in
double rows, 3-4” in-row (7.5-10 cm),
beds 39” (1 m) apart.
• 3-9 lbs (1.4-4.2 kg) per person per year in
the US.

11. Popping the cloves
Up to 7 days before planting
Photo from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

12. Popping the Cloves
• Twist off the outer skins, pull the bulb apart
• With hardneck garlic, the remainder of the stem acts as a handy
lever for separating the cloves.
• Don’t worry if some skin comes off the cloves – they will still grow.
• Try not to break the basal plate of the cloves (the part the roots
grow from).
Sort:
• good size cloves in big buckets,
• damaged cloves in kitchen buckets,
• tiny cloves in tiny buckets (planted for garlic scallions)
• outer skins and reject cloves in compost buckets.

13. Pre-plant Treatments
To prevent some pests or diseases
Stem and bulb (bloat) nematode:
1. Soak the separated cloves for 30 minutes in 100°F (37.7°C) water containing 0.1% surfactant (soap).
2. Or soak for 20 mins in the same solution at 120°F (48.5°C).
3. Then cool in plain water for 10-20 mins.
4. Or soak in 10% bleach water for 10 mins, warm water rinse.
5. Allow to dry for 2 hours at 100°F (37.7°C) or plant immediately.
Mites :
1. Separate the cloves and soak them overnight (up to 16 hours) in water. The long soaking loosens the
clove skins so the alcohol can penetrate and reach the hidden mites.
2. Optional additions to the water: 1 heaping tablespoon of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of liquid
seaweed per gallon (around 8 ml baking soda and 4 ml liquid seaweed per liter).
3. Just before planting, drain the cloves and cover them in rubbing alcohol for 3-5 minutes, so the alcohol
penetrates the clove covers and kills any mites inside. Then plant immediately.
Various fungal infections:
1. Separate the cloves and soak them for 15-30 mins in water (optional extras as for mites).
2. Just before planting, drain the cloves and cover them in rubbing alcohol for 3-5 minutes.
Fusarium:
1. Soak the cloves in a 10% bleach solution, then roll them in wood ash (wear gloves). The wood-ash soaks
up the dampness of the bleach and provides a source of potassium.
2. Add wood ashes when planting, or possibly dust the beds with more ashes over the winter. (Use
moderation - don’t add so much that you make the soil alkaline.)

14. Crop Requirements
• Sandy or clay loam, very good
drainage, fertile soil, lots of
OM, P and K important.
• Rotation: at least five years
away from alliums.
• Full sun.
• pH of 6.0-8.4, with 6.8
optimum. Onion maggots
thrive if the soil is alkaline.
• Compost or soybean meal at
planting time. 30-60 #N/ac
• 1-2” (2.5-5 cm) of water per
week during the growing
season (not during the winter),
until the leaves start to yellow
and the bulbs start to dry
down, when irrigation should
be stopped.

15. When Foliar Feeding is Wasted
If your garlic reaches 4 leaves before winter, forget about foliar feeding
and side-dressing.
Reasons:
1. It provides no gain in yield if the soil had adequate fertility at
planting time.
2. Foliar fertilizers tend to run off the waxy near-vertical garlic leaves,
unless you add a good spreader-sticker (soap).
3. Foliar feeding (or side-dressing with compost or organic fertilizers)
is wasted after the fifth leaf, and certainly after the bulb starts to
enlarge.
4. In the South, spring is too late for foliar feeding, as garlic reaches a
four-leaf size before winter.
5. Don’t over-fertilize in the fall or growth will be too fast and tender
to survive cold conditions, and the storage life of the garlic will be
reduced.

16. Spacing
Give each plant 32 to 72 square inches (206 -465 cm2).
3” (7.5 cm) is too close. The shading of one plant by another reduces yield.
We like 5” (13 cm) spacing in the row, and 8-10” (20-25 cm) between rows, 4
rows in a 3.5-4’ (1-1.2 m) wide bed. That’s 40 in2 (258 cm2) each. We get
plenty of 2 ½ “ bulbs. Many growers plant at 6” (15 cm) in-row.
Double rows and drip tape - you can run a length of tape and plant one row
each side, with all plants 6” (15 cm) apart in all directions, and 40” (1 m) or
less between drip lines and the pairs of rows.

17. Planting depth
Depth: 1.5-2” (4-5 cm) of soil over the top of the
cloves in the South, and 3-4” (8-10 cm) of soil in the
north. Avoid planting deeper than necessary, as any
mold problems you have may get worse.
Planting depth in Michigan is 6” (15 cm). (Deeper
planting helps prevent too much top growth and
moderates the soil temperature.)
In Arizona, some growers set the cloves on the soil
surface, then cover with 6” (15 cm) straw. This makes
for a clean crop and an easy harvest.

18. Planting
• Hardneck - plant the right way up (pointy end up)! Hardneck cloves with
the points down suffer a 30% reduction in yield. Softneck cloves can be
planted any way up, so are easier for mechanical planting.
• Our method is to mark the bed with a row-marker rake, make furrows
with pointed hoes, then lightly press the cloves into the furrows at the
chosen spacing, using measuring sticks. After that we pull soil over the
cloves using regular hoes or rakes, and tamp the soil down with the back
of the tool.
• Some other growers who also plant by hand make a planting jig to make
four or more holes at a time in loose soil, rather than make a furrow. Plant
a clove in each hole and cover with the right depth of soil.
• If you can’t squat, or you are planting from the seat of a tractor, use a 3’
(1 m) length of pipe to drop the cloves into the furrows. Dropped from
that height, through a tube wide enough for the garlic to tumble end-
over-end, the cloves will land the way they need to be.

19. No-till Planting
There were trials at Virginia Tech to develop no-till planting for garlic,
planting in the fall into a frost-killed cover crop.
• Sorghum-Sudan hybrid, Lab-lab bean and Sunn hemp were planted
in the first week of August in raised beds.
• When frost had killed the cover crops (10/24) the beds were rolled
to flatten the crop residue
• Garlic cloves were planted 5-6” (14 cm) deep in holes made with a
soil probe. All plots were given organic fertilizers.
• Some were covered with thick straw, which was always beneficial.
Disappointing results - no-till caused a 32-44% bulb loss, with
Sorghum-Sudan by far the worst. So don’t re-invent the wheel.
Speculation - the cover crop residues tied up the available nitrogen.

20. No-till where oats winter-kill:
Sow oats 4 weeks before garlic-planting date. David
Stern in upstate New York successfully plants into
oats that have reached 6” (15 cm) tall. He cuts slots
through the oats with a disc-furrower and plants
the cloves in the slots. The oats continue to grow
until winter-killed, and they continue to protect the
garlic. Timing is obviously critical and site-
dependent. Can be harder to harvest from the
“turf-like” soil. Wireworms could potentially be a
problem, encouraged by grasses.

21. To Mulch or Not to
Mulch?
• Roll round bales of spoiled hay
over our beds immediately after
planting.
• Come back a couple of weeks later
and free any shoots trapped by
clumps of over-thick mulch.
• Leave it all alone until late
February,
• Start weeding (once a month for
four months).
• In the South organic mulches keep
the soil cooler once the weather
starts to heat up. It is harder to
add mulch after the garlic has
started to grow.
• Organic mulches will protect the
cloves from cold winter
temperatures, and frost-heaving to
some extent.

22. Liberate trapped shoots!
Free trapped garlic shoots from over-thick mulch, when 50% emerged.

23. Garlic Scallions
Small whole garlic plants, pulled and bunched like onion scallions.
An attractive early spring crop.
• To grow garlic scallions, save the smallest cloves from planting
your main garlic crop
• Plant close together in furrows, dropping them in almost shoulder
to shoulder, just as they fall. Close the furrow and mulch over the
top with spoiled hay or straw.
• Plant these next to your main garlic patch, or in a part of the
garden that's easily accessible in spring.
• We harvest garlic scallions from early March, once they reach
about 7-8" (18-20 cm) tall,
• They last till May, unless we need to use the space for lettuce
seedlings.
• You may need to loosen the plants with a fork rather than just
pulling.
• Trim the roots, rinse, bundle, set in a small bucket with a little
water, and you're done!
• Some people cut the greens at 10" (25 cm) tall, and bunch them,
allowing cuts to be made every two or three weeks. We tried this,
but prefer to simply pull the whole plant. The leaves keep in better
condition if still attached to the clove.
• Scallions can be sold in small bunches of 3-6 depending on size.

24. Weed control is important
Weeds can decrease yield by as much as 50%.
Kill the spring cool-weather weeds, then kill the summer weeds.

25. Weed control methods
• Without mulch: cultivate fairly frequently. Use
tine weeders up until garlic is 6-8” tall. Then
hillers will deal with the between-row weeds and
some of the in-row weeds, but be careful not to
cover too much of the foliage as this reduces
yields.
• Take care when hoeing or cultivating and hand-
weeding. Keep the leaves in good shape.
• Each leaf damaged or removed will cause about a
17% yield reduction for that plant.

26. Vinegar Weeding
Useful in controlling broadleaf weeds, but has no effect on grass
weeds. It is possible to reduce labor by 94% using vinegar rather
than hand-weeding, so if broadleaf weeds are what you get, this
is a good solution.
2004 SARE Grant report by Fred Forsburg.
• 5 applications of 10% acetic acid vinegar spray during the
growing season.
• Start when the garlic is 18” (46 cm) tall
• Spray about every 10 days, from both sides of each row.
• Wear a mask and gloves, long sleeves and long pants, this
strength of vinegar is caustic.
• www.honeyhillfarm.com

27. Flame Growers who prefer not to mulch
Weeding need to deal with weeds sooner.
Colorado State Specialty Crops photo
• Flame-weeding can achieve as
good results as hand-weeding
using one-third of the labor.
• Can be used for relatively
mature garlic, but young plants
(four or fewer leaves) are too
easily damaged.
• Direct the flame at the base of
the plants, in the morning, when
the plants are turgid.
• Don’t flame-weed if you have
mulch!

28. Diseases
• The major diseases are mostly fungal: White Rot, Fusarium, Botrytis, Rust, Penicillium
Molds, Purple Blotch, Powdery Mildew and Downy Mildew. Use pre-plant clove treatments to
reduce these diseases. Bacterial soft rots are also sometimes seen. Remove isolated sick plants as
soon as you see them. Always remove garlic debris from the field at the end of the season, or till it
in and plant a non-allium crop. In summer, soil biological life is very active, and soil organisms will
quickly break down the debris.
• White Rot is most active below 75°F (24°C) and leads to yellowing and dying of older leaves,
tipburn, destruction of the root system and rotting of the bulb. This fungus can persist in the soil for
10 years, and requires assertive action to reduce the problem. A clever trick is to spray garlic extract
on the soil when the temperature is 60-70°F (15-21°C) and you have no garlic growing. The fungal
mycelium may grow and then die off in the absence of food. Several weeks later, garlic can be
planted and will escape the rot.
• Fusarium usually attacks plants that are under stress. (In our garden it is the plants on the
gravelly edge of the patch.) It grows during hot weather, with symptoms similar to White Rot, but
slower to develop. Fusarium produces small brown spots on the cloves, yellowed leaves and
stunted browned roots. The discoloration of the leaves spreads from the tips. The main organic
approaches to controlling Fusarium are good sanitation (and pre-planting treatments) as well as
fostering strong plant growth.
• Botrytis symptoms include “water-soaked” leaves, and can lead to bulbs rotting, sometimes
during storage. This fungus grows best (worst!) in warm wet weather. Good airflow during growth,
curing and storage, will reduce the chances of Botrytis problems.
• Rust shows up initially as small white flecks on the leaves, developing into orange spots.
Favorable conditions include temperatures of 45-55°F (7-13°C), high humidity but low rainfall, and
low light. Stressed plants are the most likely to be stricken. Infected bulbs may shrink, yellow and
die. Once again, good sanitation and rotations are the organic approaches.

29. Pests
• Pests include nematodes, thrips, onion maggots, cutworm,
armyworm, and mites. Weekly scouting is a good practice. Use pre-
planting treatments against nematodes and mites. Caterpillars can be
killed with Bt.
• Nematode infestations show up as distorted, bloated, spongy leaves and
bulbs, perhaps with brown or yellow spots. Top growth yellows and may
separate from the root system. Farmscaping (planting flowers to attract
beneficial insects that feed on pests) can work for thrips, which are on the
menu for lady bugs and minute pirate bugs.
• Beneficial nematodes can be effective against onion maggots; ground and
rove beetles, birds and braconid wasps all prey on some life stage of the
onion maggot. Rowcover can exclude the fly (mother of the maggots).
• Mites can eat the skins of the cloves, survive the winter and multiply all
spring long, seriously damaging or even killing your crop.

30. Garlic Scapes
Garlic scapes are the firm, round seed stems that grow from hard-neck garlic, starting to appear 3 weeks before
harvest, as the bulbs size up. If these are removed, the garlic bulbs will be easier to braid, if you want braids from
hardneck varieties. Scapes also make an early-season visually attractive crop. Contrary to ideas mentioned by some
sources, leaving scapes in does not increase the storage life of the garlic. Most people who remove scapes cut them
where they emerge from the leaves. We prefer to pull ours, to get the most out. We don't wait for the top of the
scape to loop around, as the scapes will have begun to toughen and reduce the final yield of the garlic. As soon as the
pointed caps of the scape have cleared the plant center, grasp the round stem just below the cap and pull slowly and
steadily vertically upwards. The scape emerges with a strange popping sound and you have the full length of the
scape, including the tender lower portion. Sometimes the scapes will snap rather than pull right out, but the
remainder of the stem can be pulled next time, when it has grown taller. We gather into buckets, with the scapes
standing upright, so we can put a little water in the bucket, and so that the scapes are aligned, easy to cut up. They
will store well in a refrigerator for months if needed. Late morning is a good time to pull scapes (or early afternoon).
The wound heals over in 15-20 minutes in the heat of the day, whereas otherwise it could drip for up to 24 hours,
increasing the risk of disease, and losing water from the plant.
We harvest scapes two or three times a week, for about three weeks in May. The crew always enjoys this job, partly
because it's a stand-up job, and partly because we encourage a friendly competition to see who can get the longest
scape of the day. This encourages everyone to perfect their technique too. Scapes can be chopped and used in stir-
fries, pesto, garlic butter, pickles and other dishes in place of bulb garlic. They can also be frozen for out of season
use. Searching the internet will reveal lots of recipes. Scapes sell in bunches of 6-10. One acre (0.4 hectare) of
hardneck garlic can produce 300-500 lbs (136-226 kg) of scapes.
Coloradp State University Specialty Crops photo.

31. Pre-harvest prep
• With hardneck garlic, scapes will start appearing about 3
weeks before the bulbs are mature. (Day-length as well as
accumulated degree days determines when scapes appear
as well as when bulbs are ready to harvest.) This is a good
time to be paying more attention to your garlic crop, and
what better way than walking through pulling scapes?
• Take the opportunity to remove any diseased plants from
the patch at the same time. Three weeks before the
expected harvest, remove the mulch to help the bulbs dry
down, and to prevent fungal diseases.
• In our rotation, the spring broccoli is usually next door to
the garlic, and we move the old garlic mulch to the broccoli
to top up the mulch there. It helps us stay on track with
getting the broccoli weeded too.

32. Determining when to harvest
Garlic is ready to harvest when the sixth leaf down is
starting to brown on 50% of the crop. See Ron
Engeland's Growing Great Garlic. The point is to have
five green leaves still on the plant, to provide the
protection of five intact skins over the bulb. Each leaf
corresponds to one wrapper on the cloves or
bulb, and as the leaf dies, so the skin rots.
Harvesting too early means smaller bulbs (harvesting
way too early means an undifferentiated bulb and lots
of wrappers that then shrivel up). Harvesting too late
means the bulbs may "shatter" or have an exploded
look, and not store well.
It is possible to take apart any small or shattered
bulbs and replant them immediately after harvest to
grow more scallions. They won’t start growing
immediately if the weather is really hot, they’ll just
stay dormant until cooler weather arrives.
Usually it's 6/7-6/14 for harvest of our main crop of
hardneck garlic, but it has been as early as 5/30, and
as late as 6/18.

33. Cut across hardneck garlic – airspaces
around stem show maturity
Music German Red

34. Mechanical Harvest
Colorado State Univesity Specialty Crops photo
Use a tractor-mounted
undercutter to loosen the
bulbs, or a root-harvester to
completely dig them up.
Sub-soilers, European leek
harvesting machines or
homemade undercutters
fashioned from an old snow
plow blade bent into a
rectangular shape, have all
been used.

35. Manual Harvest
• Use digging forks to loosen the soil –
lift, don’t pull. Stressing the necks
will not improve the curing.
• In drought years use overhead
irrigation the evening before, to
loosen the soil enough to harvest
without damage.
• Treat the bulbs like precious sun-
sensitive eggs! Bruised bulbs won't
store well, nor will sun-scalded ones.
It’s better not to wash them, as
drying is what’s needed. Shake off
the soil, without banging the bulbs.

36. Avoid cooking your garlic!
We harvest into buckets to keep the bulbs shaded. Others might use crates. If
it’s hot, get the garlic out of the field quickly, hang it up and get it drying,
(indoors!) Don’t let garlic get above 121°F (49°C) as it will start to cook.

37. Despite looking a lot yellower
than “5 green leaves”, this 2012
crop was not shattering.

38. Garlic harvest gets fast follow-up
Immediately after the harvest we till the old garlic
area and sow buckwheat and soy. We have about six
or seven weeks before we'll use these beds to sow
our fall carrots at the very beginning of August.

39. The indoor job of hanging the garlic
Setting garlic to cure to cure as it comes in from the field
is popular when it is hot outside. It
takes us several morning shifts to get
Pic of garlic drying on floor
our 4200 row feet (1280 m) of garlic
harvested and hung up.
Some growers tie the plants in loose
bundles of about 8-12 plants and
hang the bundles under cover. If you
can size the bunch so it ends up
around one pound (0.5 kg) in
weight, you may save yourself a task
later.
Whatever method you are using, get
the garlic spread out immediately.
Don’t leave it in plastic containers
where the heat and moisture will
incubate fungi!

40. Cure for 2-4 weeks.
We hang our garlic in nylon netting
around the walls of a barn. The netting
has a 2" (5 cm) diamond mesh.
Snowfencing (slats and wire, or the
plastic kind) can also be used to hang
garlic.
Or you can make horizontal racks, and
lay the garlic on top.
To braid softneck garlic, start braiding
within the first week of curing, before
the leaves become too brittle. You’ll also
need to clean your garlic.

41. Using netting
We thread a bulb in each
diamond, by bending the
tops of the leaves and
feeding them through the
space. We take a section of
netting and work upwards in
rows, back and
forth, covering the walls in
garlic. We use fans to move
the air, which you should
consider if your climate is
also humid.

43. Snipping and Sorting
Test the curing garlic by rolling the
neck of a few sample bulbs
between finger and thumb. If it
feels dry, rather than moist, it's
ready.
Use scissors to cut off the roots
close to the bulb and the tops
¼ - ½ " (0.5-1 cm) above the bulb.
Some growers brush mud off with
toothbrushes. We find enough dirt
drops off during storage to save us
this tedious task.

44. Selecting seed garlic
Measure the bulbs and
assess which are good for
seed.
We save for seed all bulbs 2-
2.5" (5-7 cm) in diameter,
with an even shape and
cloves that are tight
together, not opening up.
Some growers use jigs with
two foam-lined battens
tapering towards each other
on a board to measure sizes.
Photo: Colorado State University Specialty Crops

45. Sorting garlic
Don’t just save all
the biggest bulbs
for seed - they
tend to be
uneven ("rough")
in shape and
quality, with
cloves of all sizes.

46. Storage
• Our seed garlic goes on a high shelf in the garden shed, at
quite variable ambient temperatures, and does fine until
late October or early November when we plant it. The
ideal storage conditions for seed garlic are 50-65°F (10-
18°C) and 65-70% relative humidity.
• Don’t refrigerate seed garlic - prolonged cool storage
results in “witches-brooming” (strange growth shapes),
and early maturity (along with lower yields).
• Storage above 65°F (18°C) results in delayed sprouting and
late maturity.
• The eating garlic is stored in a dry, coolish basement at 60-
70°F (15.5-21°C) over the summer. In late September we
move our eating garlic from the basement to the walk-in
cooler at 35-38°F (1.5-3°C) to make space available for the
winter squash. By this time most of the apples have gone
from the walk-in cooler, and there is no longer the problem
of ethylene emitted by the apples, which causes garlic to
sprout. Ideally they would never be in the same storage
space.
• At 32°F (0°C) it will store for 6-7 months.
• Avoid the middle temperature range of 40-56°F (4.4-
13°C), as this encourages sprouting. This is another reason
why we move garlic out of the basement in the fall –
temperatures there are dropping below 56°F (13°C).

47. Kilarney hardneck (SESE)

48. Music hardneck (SESE)

49. Siberian hardneck (SESE)

50. German Red Hardneck (SESE)

51. Italian softneck (Artichoke
type) (SESE)

52. French Red Softneck (SESE)

53. Silverwhite softneck (Silverskin type)
(SESE)

54. Inchelium Red Softneck (Artichoke type)
(SESE)

55. Polish White Softneck (SESE)

56. Lorz Italian (SESE)

57. Resources
Growing Great Garlic, Ron Engeland, 1991, Filaree Colorado State University Specialty Crop Garlic
Project,
ATTRA, Organic Garlic Production, specialtycrops.colostate.edu/scp_exp_demo/garlic_
attra.ncat.org/attra-
pub/summaries/summary.php?pub=29 2004_spce_flme_scpe.htm
The Garlic Seed Foundation, Sources for Seed
garlicseedfoundation.info An organization of
growers and eaters. Their website lists suppliers and Gourmet Garlic Gardens, gourmetgarlicgardens.com
resources, including the ARS Germplasm Resource,
which supplies small amounts of plant material to /index.htm 325-348-3049, 73 varieties
growers. They have an extensive library and
information on building your own harvesting
equipment. Filaree Farms, WA, filareefarm.com 509-422-6940,
over 100 varieties
Dr Gayle Volk’s Garlic DNA Analysis, garlicseedfound
ation.info/allium_sativum_DNA.htm Territorial Seeds, OR, territorialseed.com
800-626-0866, 27 varieties
Nematodes, garlicseedfoundation.info/bloat-
nematode-new-york.htm Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, VA, southern
garlicseedfoundation.info/images/nematode-cce.jpg
exposure.com 540-894-9480, 17 varieties
Gourmet Garlic Garden growing instructions, pests
and diseases, growing in the South, and more, Irish Eyes Garden Seeds, WA,
gourmetgarlicgardens.com/index.htm irisheyesgardenseeds.com 509-964-7000 or 509-
925-6025, 19 varieties

58. Growing Great Garlic
Pam Dawling
Twin Oaks Community Central Virginia
Author of Sustainable Market Farming
SustainableMarketFarming.com
facebook.com/SustainableMarketFarming