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HIGHLIGHTS FROM JUNE 2010 EXCURSION TO ICELAND

     We took a direct overnight flight from Dulles to Keflavik Airport on IcelandAir. The steward announced
     that the flight would take 5 hours, 34 minutes, and 14 seconds (our first hint of the Icelandic sense of
     humor we would discover). Our seating request fell through; putting us at opposite windows. Dave sat
     right by the main door (had to move legs so the door could be closed). Heather sat next to a man from
     Finland who was in D.C. to help create international standards for universal power supplies. We flew over
     land until we cleared Newfoundland/Labrador. Later saw what we believe were lights from the Greenland
     coast. Economy comfort class provided a small meal (good) and a beer (Icelandic of course). The
     airport was small; easy to navigate through. A short line took us through the passport check. We had
     nothing to declare. We found an ATM for Krona; then found the shuttle service booth.



                                                                       The Hotel Klettur (originally booked)
                                                                       did not have a room for us but had
                                                                       arranged for us to switch to a partner
                                                                       hotel - Hotel Cabin. We agreed and
                                                                       were driven to what turned out to be
                                                                       a better situation. The view of the
                                                                       bay and mountain ridge was
                                                                       tremendous. It was still only a 20
                                                                       minute walk to the city center; plus
                                                                       only 10 minutes to the start of the
                                                                       Midnight run. They even cleaned a
                                                                       room so we could check in early. We
                                                                       almost fell asleep in the lobby while
                                                                       we waited, but within 90 minutes, we
                                                                       had a room.


                                                                004
The hotel room was small by US standards, but we didn't need/expect more. It was functional and comfortable.
The only noise was from the mini frig. The geothermal heat made no noise, but it always radiated some heat -
even when turned to the lowest setting. We kept the window open all day and even into the night a few times.
Bus loads of tour groups (mainly retired Germans) packed the lobby and breakfast room during this busy season.



                                                                        The entire exterior wall (facing
                                                                        north) was window. The views were
                                                                        tremendous. We would sit at the
                                                                        end of the day, relax and enjoy
                                                                        watching the Iceland world go by.
                                                                        Even watching the ever changing
                                                                        clouds was fun. We called it our
                                                                        big-screen TV.

                                                                        The view of the “setting” and “rising”
                                                                        sun (of course it never fully went
                                                                        below the horizon) was a unique
                                                                        treat. Watching the sun while
                                                                        looking north, though, was
                                                                        disorienting – the sun is never to
                                                                        the north in the US.

                                                                006
                                                                                                            1
Another view from our top floor
            window.

            The breakfast room was also on the
            top floor - offering views toward the
            city (no pictures). Breakfast was a
            good change from an American
            "normal" breakfast routine. Nothing
            fried or even hot. Cheese, fruits,
            tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers,
            Icelandic yogurt, hard boiled eggs,
            cold cuts, breads and pastries.
            Only negative - the juices were
            watered down and we believe the
            orange juice was Tang-based.


007



            The path along the shoreline was
            the perfect way to begin our
            exploration. The path is paved with
            rocks stacked as a break wall.
            During our stay, there were no
            breaking waves within the protected
            bay. We could see the tide rolling
            in, though.
            This view is toward the city center.


            By the way – if you are viewing
            these in softcopy, you can expand
            the size of pictures for a closer look.


013




            View opposite from city center;
            towards the channel used by cruise
            and container ships – which we
            could watch from our room.




      015                                       2
018                                                     020
  In the distance, you can make out                     View closer to the city center.
  mountains on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.




                                                026                                                     027
Much photographed sculpture of a Viking ship.          "Vik" (as in Reykjavik) means bay.
                                                       Therefore, Viking refers to people of the bay.



                                                        Harbor at the city center (no longer the
                                                        main port). The boat "Christina" offers
                                                        bird watching and fishing excursions.
                                                        We didn't go on the excursion, just took
                                                        the picture.

                                                        We ate at a small Mediterranean
                                                        restaurant this first full day (most
                                                        restaurants are small). The
                                                        waitress/hostess was actually from
                                                        Bulgaria and had only been in Iceland
                                                        10 days. She did not seem thrilled to be
                                                        there - "It's cold, much warmer back
                                                        home".
                                                 028
                                                                                                        3
030                                                          031
June 20, 2012, Quarter till midnight (2345 using           Five minutes till midnight (2355) - Sun is a bit
Iceland’s 24 hour clock) - Setting sun over the water.     lower and dipping between distant mountains.




                                                                      Midnight - Sun remains above the
                                                                      horizon behind distant mountains.




                                                                             Color of rising sun reflecting on
                                                                             clouds. This picture (since it is not
                                                                             pointed directly at the sun) shows
                                                                             how light it is (you could read a
                                                                             book by the light). This is the
                                                                             darkest it gets this time of year.
                                                                             Of course, this also shows the
                                                                             most amount of light there will be
                                                                   032       six months from now.




 Ten minutes after midnight (0010) - Sun is       035                                                         036
 starting back up in the sky.
                                                                                                              4
050                                                     052
The sports complex and recreation area                     Most of the "Run with the Midnight Sun" race
occupies a large tract of land in a valley in the          wound through the park. The 5K started at
eastern part of Reykjavik. There are open park             10:30 pm (2230) with plenty of daylight; there
land, trails, gardens, farm exhibit, children's play       was no need for lights. After a warm (not at
areas and rides, sports fields (indoor and                 all hot) and relaxing time in the thermal pool
outdoor), skating rink, hot spring pool, etc. - and        we walked back to the hotel with the daylight
trees. It was in full use - many families.                 offered by the midnight sun. A very unique
                                                           experience (as was the entire trip).




                                                     054
 Another view of the sports complex. Note the
 sponsor sign of Coca-Cola. The major US
 chains included Subway, Dominos Pizza, and
 KFC, but no burger joints (although they had
 their own drive through brand).

 The Askirkja Church is on the hill - one of
                                                                 Closer view of Askirkja Church.            055
 many architectural churches in Reykjavik.


                                                                                                             5
Site of super-powers peace summit that led to the end of
                                                   the Cold War (as it existed before). The picture is from
                                                   the shoreline path, so obviously the house offered the
                                                   leaders a tremendous view of the bay. When the summit
                                                   occurred, there were no other buildings around.
                                                   Our guide (and the markers) referred to the Peace
                                                   Summit between President Reagan and Secretary
                                                   General Gorbachev as the most significant global event in
                                                   Iceland's history. It demonstrated that Iceland was all
                                                   about peace, offered a safe and carefree setting, and
                                                   reflected their concern for the well-being of all people.
                                                   The actual name of the Peace House is the Hofdi House
                                                   (Icelandic rune letters would require a different keyboard -
                                                   which Heather experienced while sending messages from
                                                   the hotel lobby). It is now used for small conferences
                                             040   receptions or events (can't walk in to look around).




                                       060                                                   062

There are many artists in Iceland - writers, musicians, painters and sculptors. There are many
small art museums in Reykjavik. These are sculptures by Asmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982).




                                            065                                                         068
 Old cemetery on a hill above the Tjornin Pond. The procession (referred to as the parade) after
 the National Day ceremony stopped here to respect those who came before independence.                  6
Statue of Ingolfur Arnarson - recognized as
                                                     the first "permanent” settler of Iceland.




                                                     075


Statue of Jon Sigurdsson on the square by the Parliament
building. He argued long and hard for Iceland's freedom from
Denmark. In 1874, Denmark allowed Iceland to establish a
constitution; giving them authority to govern themselves (to a
degree - trade was still controlled by Denmark).
Independence occurred in 1944 when Nazi Germany over ran
Denmark. Iceland took the stance that the previous
agreement was with the Denmark Monarchy - which became
void when the Nazi's dissolved the Monarchy. The Allied
nations backed their claim. Independence Day was
established on June 17, Jon Sigurdsson's birthday.




                                                                                                              077




                                                                 View across Austuuvollur Square.
                                                                 The building with the flag is the Althingi
                                                                 (House of Parliament).
                                                                 Iceland’s Parliament is still small enough
                                                                 to conduct official business here.


                                                           078                                                7
As we walked around on the 17th (our first
 full day of sightseeing) we stood against a
 rope and watched while some youth
 practiced marching with Icelandic flags.
 Then the honor guard marched in and lined
 up (we are not sure who makes up the
 honor guard (our term) since there is no
 military service. Maybe police or members
 of the Coast Guard?).
 Next thing we knew, a few security
 personnel took positions along the rope, the
 Church bells rang, and out came the
 President and Prime Minister; followed by
 diplomats and special guests. We found
 ourselves with a front row view of the official
 National Day ceremony.

088


 The President and Prime Minister laid a
 wreath at Jon Sigurdsson's statue - and we
 were just yards away from these leaders.

 When Heather met with the Reykjavik
 Public Librarians, she mentioned her
 amazement of how close the public was
 during such an official ceremony. One
 Librarian got an aggravated look on her face
 and stated that two years ago there was no
 rope and you could sit where you wanted.
 Last year she was told she had to sit in the
 back so she didn't bother attending this year
 because of how things had changed. We
 were amazed by the access; she was
 disappointed by the “control”.
089




 Youth choir signing national songs during
 the procession of the President and Prime
 Minister. Icelanders who had attended the
 official the church service started gathering
 around the rope, so we left to give them
 room – it was their special day.




093
                                            8
114
                                                       Oldest standing building in Reykjavik (1762). There
                                                       were a lot of fires in Reykjavik during the 1970s and
                                                       1980s so they banned wood framed buildings. This one
                                                       survived.



 Downtown sculpture reflecting the            106
 geothermal activity of the island.




                                                                                                          109
                                                         View of the city's beautiful architecture. Love the
                                                         mountain in the background. The architecture isn't
                                                         very old by European (or even American)
                                                         standards. Iceland was extremely poor for much
                                                 108
                                                         of it's history, so there were not many show-case
View across Tjornin, the large pond in Reykjavik.        homes built by "the wealthy". The 1990s and early
The building at the left is the City Government          2000s brought increased prosperity. As with many
Building. The "person" on the bench is another           other countries, they over extended the building
sculpture. The far side of the pond was filled with      boom and international credit holdings grew
booths and entertainment for the National Day            beyond control. The bust hit hard. Tourism (not a
festival; which included music, rides, a puppet          major industry prior to then) has helped their
show with a huge crowd of children, a vintage car        recovery – which a guide thanked us for.
show featuring many American models, and a
strong man competition.
                                                                                                           9
The National Museum was very good (and free
                                                        on National Day). Settlement of the island is a
                                                        recent event historically speaking. There were
                                                        no-pre-history peoples. Extensive use of sod and
                                                        wood for early buildings results in few ruins.
                                                        Churches were the most long lasting structures
                                                        from which historians could build an
                                                        understanding of early settlements. Displays also
                                                        show recent (within our lifetime) aspects of
                                                        society, including a collection of photographs
                                                        from ordinary citizens. There is also a display on
                                                        the 1972 Fischer / Spassky World Chess
                                                        Championship held in Iceland.


                                             111

                                                        Note that the sign includes English as well as
                                                        Icelandic. Displays (in all museums) were in
                                                        Icelandic and English. Most of our fellow tourists
                                                        were from Europe, but English is the default
                                                        language for non-Icelandic speakers. While the
                                                        tourist excursions were in English this didn't mean
                                                        they were catering to the American and British
                                                        tourists which were in the minority. The exception
                                                        was the number of German speaking tours
                                                        offered (again, they came by the busloads).
                                                        Also note that "Iceland" is "Island" in Icelandic.
                                                        We also toured the City Settlement Museum (no
                                                        picture) - an archeological excavation of an early
                                                        home.



                                             112




Einer Jonsson sculpture along the Tjornin Pond.
More on this artist later.




                                                  107
                                                                                                     10
120
View of what has become the "upscale" shopping street
- Skolavoroustigur. It leads up to Hallgrimskirkja
Church which dominates most views of the city.




                                                                  Architecture is based on columns of      122
                                                                  volcanic basalt rock. Statue is of
                                                                  Leifur Eiriksson.




                                        123
Guides pointed out with pride how
Eiriksson discovered North American
long before Columbus.                                                                                      121
                                                View from Hallgrimskirkja Church down Skolavoroustigur.

                                                                                                          11
View inside
        Hallgrimskirkja
        Church .
        Simplistic (vice
        ornate) but
        grand.




      132

                                                                          133
                                       The pipe organ is huge and
                                       beautiful. The church hosts many
                                       recitals and concerts. The backs
                                       of the pews easily switch positions
                                       so people can sit facing the organ.




                                 Stained glass window in the Church.




                                 147




Beautiful Baptismal Font.
Every Icelandic birth is
registered with the Lutheran
Church. People can change
their registration but many
don't bother. As a result over
84% of the Icelandic people
are Lutheran (according to
the registry).


138                                         Hallgrimskirkja Pulpit.     139
                                                                           12
City view from the Hallgrimskirkja
 Church bell tower. Looking toward
 downtown and the original harbor.
 The ridge along the horizon to the
 right is the same one we view from
 our hotel.




155




 The dome structure just right of center is
 the Perlan (referred to as the "Pearl"). It
 is a museum, restaurant and observation
 point built on top of huge tanks used to
 store hot water for Reykjavik. Pictures
 from that location appear later.




158




      View of the shoreline and the
      path we used to get back to our
      hotel.

      We happened to be in the tower
      when noon chimed. We could
      feel the reverberation.




 160
                                           13
171
Loved the "stack 'em where you can" used book
store. Icelandic people love to read - and write
(one in ten will be published). This is a store you
could spend days in - if you could read Icelandic.
                                                                                                              172
                                                                 We think this must be the shop Heather's
                                                                 brother Greg visited and struck up a sitar jam
                                                                 session with the owner. We'll find out for sure.




                                                      173                                                        174
  Reykjavik is famous for its lamb and beef                  Picture opportunity along the longest
  hotdogs. Somehow we didn't get around to                   shopping/dining street - Laugavegur.
  eating here, even though we planned to.                    Icelandic mythology is filled with Trolls,
  More than one guide told the story that Bill               Elves and Hidden People who live farm and
  Clinton ate hot dogs at this stand, and had his            raise families among the rocks. Planned
  heart attach a month later. They love that                 roads are willingly (matter-of factly) re-routed
  story - the Icelandic sense of humor was                   if they come across rocks recognized as
  clearly evident throughout our trip.                       places where hidden people live.
                                                                                                                14
177                                                     182
 Harpa Concert Hall - a unique architecture with              Inside the City Government Building (which
 prism-shaped glass; again inspired by volcanic               is bigger than the Parliament Building) is a
 basalt rock formations. The building reflects                large relief map of the island. Of course the
 light in multiple ways and colors. We mentioned              old cartographer Dave loved it.
 it positively to one guide who disagreed. Many               A partial view of the building from across the
 see it as an intrusion of the shoreline. It is seen          pond was on picture 108 (page 9).
 as an example of Reykjavik trying to become
 cosmopolitan which was out of character. It is
 also one of the reminders of the building boom
 that contributed to the financial crisis. The
 people we met were more than willing to share
 their perspectives - which was a good way to
 understand their society in a personal manner.




                                                        186
During Heather's meeting with the Librarians,
she learned about one of their intercultural
                                                                                                           191
programs – Women's Story Circle. They created                   Hateigskirkja Church - another
this “map” of the Reyjkavik area. It was on                     architecturally unique church within
display in the City Government Building.                        Reykjavik. There are many bells in
                                                                the towers.
                                                                                                               15
200
Some of the colorful homes
throughout the city.




                                                                                                  205
                                                       This intricate mosaic is made from
                                                       many small pieces of tile. It covers
                                                       an entire side of a building.




                                                                                                   202
                                                       Another bright and colorful building. We
                                                       wondered what WOW Air was (ventilation
                                                       systems?, radio station?). We found it
 Heather is standing in front of another         206
                                                       was an actual airline when we saw ticket
 section of the mosaic.
                                                       counters at the airport. Fly WOW!
 Beautiful!
                                                                                                  16
210                                                211
Einar Jonsson (1874-1954) was Iceland's                 View from the sculpture garden.
first famous sculptor. Many of his works                Jonsson and his wife lived on the small
are throughout the city. He built this home             top floor, the middle floor was a display
and workshop on top of a hill outside of                area, and the massive ground floor was
town when there was nothing else around -               his workshop.
but this has changed over the years. This
picture is taken from the grounds of the
Hallgrimskirkja Church. The building
houses many of his works. A sculpture
garden is in the back.




                                                 232                                                 235
 We are now inside the Perlan (see picture              View of the dining area with the
 158, page 13).                                         observation level on top. There is a
 The ground floor of the "Pearl" displays many          view from inside, or you can walk
 works of art (plus a small museum and gift             around the outside of the dome. It was
 shop). We believe the palm trees reflect               a windy and misty day but we walked all
 more of the Icelandic sense of humor. The              around the observation deck.
 rounded walls are actually sides of the water
 tanks the observation tower is built on.

                                                                                                    17
View from the Perlan - of Reykjavik
 and surrounding mountains.




236




 The clouds cleared over this mountain.
  To the left you can see the bell towers
 of Hateigskirkja Church (see picture
 191, page 15).
 We reference other pictures to make
 the point of how close (relatively)
 everything is. We could easily walk
 most places (although this location was
 a stop on the Reykjavik bus tour we
 took).



237




  View toward Hallgrimskirkja Church.




239
                                        18
245   The excursion van took us through surrounding suburbs          250
 Zoomed-in view from Perlan across
                                                    (seven towns grew together to make up the Reykjavik
 the Reykjavik Airport (regional flights to
                                                    metropolitan area). 80% of Iceland's 320,000 population
 other parts of the island only). The
                                                    (320,034 according to one sign in a restaurant - more of their
 buildings in the distance (red roofs) are
                                                    sense of humor?) lives in this metropolitan area.
 the President's home.
                                                    We came to an old farmstead near the end of a peninsula.
                                                    This is where the President lives. The Icelandic flag was raised
                                                    - meaning the President was there. We were asked, out of
                                                    respect, to not go beyond the Church building. That was it - in
                                                    terms of security. No gate, no fence, no guards, no snipers
                                                    stationed on the roof. Another unique experience.




                                                  251    View from the grounds of the President's home             253
Many large farm complexes of the early
                                                         looking back towards Reykjavik. We started talking to a
territorial leaders included churches. These were
                                                         journalist who was riding with the tour. He mentioned that
symbols of power and sources of income (they got
                                                         the next Presidential election was 30 June, and the leading
a portion of the tithes). When the economy crisis
                                                         challenger (Ms. Thora Arnorsdottir) was the wife of a long-
hit a few years ago, people were mad that the
                                                         time friend. Heather voiced surprise that there was no
Parliament was discussing minor issues rather
                                                         indication that a major election was less than two weeks
than addressing the crisis. They started banging
                                                         away. He mentioned that his friend had just put up some
on pots and pans outside of the Parliament
                                                         posters at bus stops. Debates were held, but
Building. Many of the members were forced to
                                                         advertisement-type techniques are not how they do things.
resign by this "pots and pans" revolution. The
                                                         When Heather mentioned to one of the librarians that we
guide told that some protesters came to the
                                                         met someone who knew Ms. Thora, she replied - "Oh yes,
President's home. It was cold out, so he came out
                                                         I had lunch with her yesterday". It is a small country.
and invited them in for coffee and hot chocolate.
                                                         By the way, the incumbent was re-elected.               19
301                                                   303
Our first excursion outside of Reykjavik                   Our first stop was at Gerouberg Cliff a
was north to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula                    long cliff formation of volcanic basalt
(Mon. 18 June). The bus took us through rugged             (the inspiration of artwork and
landscape with numerous old lava fields. We saw            architecture).
many small farms with free-range grazing sheep (not
in flocks), horses and a few cattle. Hay is harvested
where ever it can be to help feed the animals through
the long winters. This picture shows a few remnants
of ancient volcanoes.




                                                                                                        308
                                                         View from the cliff across the vast
                                                         landscape (ancient volcano in the distance).




                                             305
      The climb to the exposed rock was
      fairly steep and the cliff was tall.
                                                                                                         20
The shoreline at Arnarstapi, along the southern     314
                                                                                                    315
coast of the peninsula, was extremely rugged.
The very hard volcanic rocks form vertical cliffs         Many seagulls nest on the steep cliffs.
and tall standing rock formations.




                                                                                                          317
                                              319
                                                               We visited at low tide, which
 More rock formations. A few feet from where Dave              exposed more of the rock.
 is squatting is a sheer drop to rocks below. There
 are few safety measures at the parks in Iceland.
 As with most countries, there liability laws are
 different than what exists in the US.




                                                                                                           325

     Looking inland from the coastline.       323
                                                            Monument to the local protective entity.
                                                                                                           21
335                                                     337
Black sand beach near the end of the                         The pebbles got smaller as we neared
Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Walking through the                  the coast.
smooth oval pebbles along the shore was cool -
and a challenge. The rust colored items are
metal debris from a ship wreck. It is left in place
out of respect for those who lost their lives.




                                                                  Unfortunately, our time at the black sand   340
                                                                  beach was short. We hiked a whirlwind
                                                                  circuit, but would have loved to spend
                                                                  more time here.




                                                            338

It is taking Mother Nature a long time to turn this rock into black sand.
                                                                                                               22
342                                                        351
View of the Snaefellsjokull Glacier at the end           Visit to Stykkisholmur Village; a small, but still
of the peninsula. When the sky was clear, we             active, fishing village. The harbor is well protected
could see this feature from our hotel room (see          by the massive rock. A quota system and
picture 018, page 3 – this is the distant                regulations try to maintain the viability of these
mountain at the far left on that picture).               small fishing operations and communities.




                                                   353                                                     354
 View from the fishing harbor. There are                  Sheer volcanic basalt cliff of the
 numerous rocky islands just off the coast.               massive rock seen above (picture 351).




                                                                                                            23
363
                                                               This excursion was heading into rough
                                                       361     road and off-road territory within
On Tue. 19 June, our excursion took us
along the southern coast to Thorsmork                          Thorsmork. A bus like this (and an
(Thor's Woods) National Park. We drove through                 experienced driver) was a must. Some
vast flat "fertile" (by Icelandic standards) agricultural      people hire vehicles, like the one next to
areas We could have been in Nebraska (minus the                our bus, for small group excursions.
grain crops).

This picture is of the volcano that erupted in 2010 -
disrupting air travel over much of Europe. We were
expecting to see a lot of devastation, but that was not
the case – recovery has been rapid.
The volcano is Eyjafjallajokull. This rolls easily off the
tongue of Icelandic speakers.




                                                                                                             366
                                                             Thorsmork (note: the actual spelling uses
                                                             a rune-like character similar to a P with the post
                                                             extending above the loop. Everywhere in this
                                                             guide where you see "th" for place names or a
                                                    365      person's name (i.e. the Presidential candidate),
View of the rugged valley leading into                       the rune is actually used in the spelling).
Thorsmork. Streams meander through the
valley carving ever changing paths through                   View as the bus was fording this stream.
the rock and rubble.                                         Holding a steady camera in the bouncing,
                                                             rocking and rolling bus was a challenge.

                                                                                                             24
373
                                                         The hard volcanic rock erodes into
                                                   371   huge, sheer and fascinating
 Thorsmork National Park
                                                         formations.
 The guide leads us on a hike through
 Stakkholtsgja, a valley that narrows
 progressively into a gorge.




                                                   375
Like the bus, we had to ford our own streams
on the hike. The experienced guide bounded
right across - then lent a steadying hand to all
us tourists.
                                                                                                    377
                                                           The valley narrowed into a gorge along
                                                           the way. We didn’t follow this branch,
                                                           but continued to what the guide
                                                           promised would be a special treat.

                                                                                                    25
378


  The destination of our Stakkholtsgja hike
  was this very tall, vertical cut into the rock.
  A waterfall cascades down the cliff forming
  a pipe-like cut. We climbed into the
  crevasse and onto the fallen rocks to be
  right in the midst of this natural wonder.
  It was a special treat as promised.




      Pictures cannot capture this spectacular       381
      feature, but here is one attempt. The water
      is falling along the right side of the "pipe".




 This hike was a highlight
 of the trip's highlights.
 Beautiful Awesome

389
                                                     26
396
                                                               View across the large rugged valley.
                                                               There was off-n-on drizzle during this hike.




Starting a second hike after off-roading            395
deeper into the park's large valley. This location
offered camping spaces and basic services for
people on days-long hikes. This portion of the
park also contains large tracts of Birch trees (the
only tree native to the island). Throughout our
visit, guides referred to any stand of trees, no
matter how small, as a "forest" - probably that is
the translation since we were often looking at the
results of reforestation projects.




View of our hiking destination - after walking  400
along the narrow ridge at the lower left on the
                                                          Numerous small flowers blossom during the      397
picture. The background shows another view of
                                                          short growing season. Here are a few examples.
the valley with meandering rivers and streams.
                                                                                                              27
403
                                                                 Another view from the rock formation we hiked
                                                     401         to. We then finished the loop back to the bus.
View from the rock formation on the previous                     A young British man and his 80-something (we
picture - looking back at the path we took                       think) grandmother were on the hike. She
                                                                 hiked along well (an inspiration), but slow.
                                                                 Falling behind on this loop trail, they took a
                                                                 wrong turn and became lost. As we all waited
                                                                 on the bus, the guide made another quick loop
                                                                 but couldn't find them. He started a second
                                                                 loop with the bus driver heading along the
                                                                 valley in case they picked up a different trail
                                                                 and existed elsewhere. While driving, Heather
                                                                 spotted them sliding down the hill to get to the
                                                                 valley. The driver worked the bus over to
                                                                 them, then picked up the guide (who had quite
                                                                 a workout). It was raining steady at that point,
                                                                 so they were wet as well. The grandmother
                                                                 quickly fell asleep - thankfully safe.




View of a glacier finger extending toward      413
a valley. This looks like a black and white
shot, but it is the same camera. With the
black rock, white ice, and grey sky, these
                                                           The dark streaks are from layers of dust/soil         412
were the only colors in view.
                                                           that accumulates between layers of ice.
                                                           These are exposed as the ice melts.
                                                                                                                28
Back near the entrance to the national park is 420                                                               423
Seljalandsfoss. While not a spectacular falls                   Seljalandsfoss is also popular because
(according to our guide), this falls is a popular stop          you can walk behind the cascading
because of its proximity to Thorsmork’s entrance                water. We thought it was spectacular
(visitors don't have to go off-road to get to it).              (i.e. by Shenandoah standards).




                                                                                                                 429
                                                         In addition to the Seljalandsfoss, there are many
                                                         smaller falls emerging over the ridge. The water is
                                                         only partially from the summer melting of snow.
                                              426        Much of it is precipitation that falls on the island.
View from the other side of the falls - the
direction the mist was blowing.                                                                                  29
445

                                                      The Golden Circle excursion started along back
                                                      roads just outside the Reykjavik metropolitan
                                                      area. We drove through lava fields that do not
                                                      have much vegetation taking hold.
                                                      We came to an area where geothermal steam
                                                      vents reach the surface.
                                                      Thingvallavatn (the lake), our destination area,
                                                      can be seen in the distance.




                                            446
    View of bore holes (the white domes) that
    tap into the natural source of energy.
    Pipes carry the hot steam and water to
    the energy plant (later in the tour).




                                                      448
                                                        The Golden Circle excursion is one of the most
                                                        popular tours. Cruise ships offer this tour to their
                                                        passengers. Plus it was a Saturday, so each stop
                                                        was shared with many people. The white bus is
                                                        ours - the largest of any excursion we took. The
                                                        other bus is with the same company (Iceland
                                                        Excursions - Grey Line) and on the same run; only
                                                        it was conducted in German.




Another view of the natural steam vents with
Thingvallavatn in the distance. The thick moss
that has grown on top of the lava rocks is very
soft and cushiony. Our feet sunk down into it.


                                                452

                                                                                                         30
465
                                                         Thingvellir National Park is extensive and
                                                         contains many natural wonders. It is popular
                                                         with tourists, and also is a vacation spot for
                                                         Icelandic people. There are numerous summer
                                                         cottages throughout the area.

                                                         The lake is very clear. Excursion companies offer
The Atlantic Ridge that separates the North        463   scuba tours (with very warm wet suits) to view the
American teutonic plate and the Eurasia plate            underwater formations and water life.
runs through this part of Iceland. These two plates
(and therefore the island) are pulling apart at about
two centimeters a year - leaving a deep and
uneven trench in the landscape.
Notice the two columns of steam on the side of the
mountain in the distance; that was our first stop.




                                                   467                                                        471
 Another view of the separating teutonic                 Two of the massive number of tourists.
 plates - looking away from the lake.                    There is a large multi-bus parking lot and a
                                                         visitors center at this site. Pay toilets, though.
                                                                                                              31
478
Althingi is the site of the annual gathering of
ancient leaders and their entourages from across
the island. They met to rule on official business,
form agreements, and govern themselves. This is
seen as one of the earliest parliamentary forms of
governance in the world. If you remember page 7,
the current Parliament Building has the same
name (Althingi).                                                                                          480
                                                                  Example of how clear the water is.
The day we visited, the interior part of the island
                                                                   This is a view of rocks on the
actually reached 23 degrees C (upper 60s - 70 F).
                                                                  bottom of the stream (not algae
Short sleeves in Iceland!
                                                                  floating on top).




                                                   482    View of the surrounding landscape. It was       483
View from the spot where the Icelandic                    fairly lush along the small rivers that
leaders conducted official business. Social               meander through this valley. It could easily
and competitive events were also part of                  support a large gathering of people and their
this annual gathering.                                    animals.



                                                                                                          32
484

                                                More picture at Althingi.
                                                Another view or the valley -
                                                looking towards the lake
                                                (Thingvallavatn).




                                       490
        View of a large stream that falls
        from the cliff, then cuts a
        parallel course along its base.




                                               493
                                                The stream then enters the
                                                ancient meeting grounds.




The flag pole marks the spot of the official
meeting. The lush streams and vegetation
seen on the previous pictures lay in
between the near and far rock formations.
                                        501

                                                                               33
508


                                                Gulfoss is a crowning jewel on the
                                                Golden Circle Tour.
                                                Truly awesome display of nature.




                                         509

   View of the distant mountains that are
   a source of the water. The vast flat
   land funnels the water to the falls




                                                510




Once the water falls, it takes a 90 degree
turn to cut a deep and narrow gorge
through the hard volcanic rock.
Tremendous amounts of spray chimney
up above the gorge.
Very unique and awesome.
                                          513


                                                                                     34
518


                                                         More pictures of Gulfoss.
                                                         Directly above the falling water -
                                                         looking along the narrow gorge.




                                                  523
The sound of thundering water was awesome. At
the National Gallery of Iceland in Reykjavik, there
is a display that encases a series of large panels.
When you pull one out, you see a transparent
picture of one of Iceland’s prominent falls, and also
here a recording of the sound it makes.
Of course there is nothing like the real thing.




                                                        525

                                                         A view downstream from the falls.




              A partial and distant view of a large
              glacier - Langjokull. The ice extends
              beyond the full length of the picture.
              This is as close as this excursion
              came to it.
                                                 536

                                                                                              35
540


                                            Geysir is the name of this location - from
                                            which our term geyser came from. This
                                            is the most popular and accessible site of
                                            geothermal pools and geysers. Not
                                            nearly as extensive as Yellowstone, but
                                            still wonderful.




                                    541


We hiked, on our own, up a small ridge
flanking the Geysir area and came
across this hot spring bubbling to the
surface, then flowing down to join the
main area of geothermal activity.




                                          Bubbling hot springs in Geysir. The area is
                                          open for people to wonder as they wish. We
                                          even saw a camper rinsing a metal pot by
                                          dipping it into a spring (not a smart move).

                                          551

                                                                                         36
View of the Geysir area from the
 ridge we hiked up.
 Happened to catch the main
 geyser erupting.




544




 Another view from the ridge – the
 upper portion of the hot spring area..




545




 View of the other side of the
 ridge; which opened to a lush
 (relatively speaking) valley.




546
                                          37
563
       Skalkolt – site of the first bishops’ compound
       on Iceland. This is a reconstructed old church.
        Archeological digs are discovering numerous
       structures and providing insight into how they
       lived and interacted with others in the area.




                                                                      565
                                                                      Distant view of Hekla, Iceland's most active
                                                                      volcano - erupting about every 10 years.
                                                                      The guide said it was due.




Our last stop on the Golden Circle excursion was at the
Geothermal Energy Plant outside of Reykjavik. Use of
geothermal energy sources is why Iceland exists today (in
the words of the plant's guide). It supplies reliable and
inexpensive heating and hot water to most of the
inhabitants. Recently, a contingent of Japanese energy
experts visited the plant to learn how they can tap into this
source of energy on their island (they had made the
nuclear choice years ago, but are rethinking the decision
after the tsunami disaster). They commented on the irony
of going to Iceland to see how to utilize geothermal power
and finding the generators and equipment were
manufactured in Japan.                                    570




                                                                 Some of the generators. Notice the pipes
                                                                 coming over the hill carrying steam and
                                                                 water from sites such as the one the
                                                                 Golden Circle excursion started with.



                                                                571
                                                                                                                     38
591                                                         594
The largest brewery in Iceland (Egils brands)            A sample of the offerings. Gull is their award
is in a suburb adjacent to Reykjavik. The tour           winning beer. It flowed freely – which the lads
was a surprisingly small group (11 of us).               took full advantage of.
When we arrived, a local resident dropped                The other major brewery (Vifilfrll) creates Viking
off 5 young English soccer players and                   and Thule brands and is in Akureyri in the
arranged for them to joined our group.                   northern part of the island. The clean Icelandic
                                                         water does not require chlorination – a reason
This tour was not about the plant and brewing            for the great taste. Unfortunately, we have not
process. The hostess talked about the                    found Icelandic beers offered anywhere in the
history and cultural aspects of Icelandic beer.          northern VA area.
It was all about entertainment (Heather                  The hostess asked everyone in the group where
thought the hostess was an actor by trade).              they were from. There were the British Lads of
The British "Lads" (as the hostess referred to           course, another person from Britain, a couple
them) added to the entertainment experience              from Canada, one lady from Australia, and the
(leading the group in a pub song at one                  rest from America. Everyone who signed up for
point).                                                  the brewery tour was from an English speaking
                                                         country - go figure.




                                                   596                                                    597
The hostess gathered cameras for group                    The hostess took a second picture with our
pictures as we toasted "Skal". The Lads are               camera after the posed "Skal".
the enthusiastic ones in the back.                        Clearly everyone had fun.
                                                          Allow us to say "unique" once again.
                                                                                                          39
611
                                                     View from the back of the building.
                                                     The Reykjavik harbor is behind us.




Heather had arranged to meet with the Youth    610
Services librarians at the Reykjavik Public
Library to share experiences and information
on programs. View of the Library which is
located near the Reykjavik harbor.
The top floor of the building houses the
Museum of Photography; which rotates works
by Icelandic artists.




                                                      There is a colorful and fanciful mural
                                                      painted along the entire wall of the
                                                      building (parking lot side). When
                                                      Heather asked about it, the librarian
                                                      answered that an American artist
                                                      offered to paint the mural, which was
                                                      accepted. They had no real idea of
                                                      what he had in mind. She was clearly
                                                      not thrilled with the result. But she
                                                      accepts it in true Icelandic spirit.




                                                     643

                                                                                               40
628



                                                                  Heather with an example of the public art that
                                                                  was on display throughout the library..




                                                                 630

                                                                  View of the library interior. Dave read
                                                                  magazines while Heather met with the
                                                                  staff. They provide magazines in English
                                                                  as well as Icelandic.




            We close our highlights with this statue –
            the likeness of a prevalent ancient icon found
            throughout the island. There are differing
            opinions of what the icon represents or
            symbolizes. People don’t agree on what the
            figure is holding. Icelandic people don’t worry
            about any of this. They still revere it as part of
            their heritage (as much as the trolls, elves,
            and hidden people.)



This trip was more than we could have imagined.
Awesome country and awesome people.
We returned with more memories than could
be captured in this summary.
Very unique experience!                                    262
                                                                                                              41

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Iceland Trip June 2012

  • 1. HIGHLIGHTS FROM JUNE 2010 EXCURSION TO ICELAND We took a direct overnight flight from Dulles to Keflavik Airport on IcelandAir. The steward announced that the flight would take 5 hours, 34 minutes, and 14 seconds (our first hint of the Icelandic sense of humor we would discover). Our seating request fell through; putting us at opposite windows. Dave sat right by the main door (had to move legs so the door could be closed). Heather sat next to a man from Finland who was in D.C. to help create international standards for universal power supplies. We flew over land until we cleared Newfoundland/Labrador. Later saw what we believe were lights from the Greenland coast. Economy comfort class provided a small meal (good) and a beer (Icelandic of course). The airport was small; easy to navigate through. A short line took us through the passport check. We had nothing to declare. We found an ATM for Krona; then found the shuttle service booth. The Hotel Klettur (originally booked) did not have a room for us but had arranged for us to switch to a partner hotel - Hotel Cabin. We agreed and were driven to what turned out to be a better situation. The view of the bay and mountain ridge was tremendous. It was still only a 20 minute walk to the city center; plus only 10 minutes to the start of the Midnight run. They even cleaned a room so we could check in early. We almost fell asleep in the lobby while we waited, but within 90 minutes, we had a room. 004 The hotel room was small by US standards, but we didn't need/expect more. It was functional and comfortable. The only noise was from the mini frig. The geothermal heat made no noise, but it always radiated some heat - even when turned to the lowest setting. We kept the window open all day and even into the night a few times. Bus loads of tour groups (mainly retired Germans) packed the lobby and breakfast room during this busy season. The entire exterior wall (facing north) was window. The views were tremendous. We would sit at the end of the day, relax and enjoy watching the Iceland world go by. Even watching the ever changing clouds was fun. We called it our big-screen TV. The view of the “setting” and “rising” sun (of course it never fully went below the horizon) was a unique treat. Watching the sun while looking north, though, was disorienting – the sun is never to the north in the US. 006 1
  • 2. Another view from our top floor window. The breakfast room was also on the top floor - offering views toward the city (no pictures). Breakfast was a good change from an American "normal" breakfast routine. Nothing fried or even hot. Cheese, fruits, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, Icelandic yogurt, hard boiled eggs, cold cuts, breads and pastries. Only negative - the juices were watered down and we believe the orange juice was Tang-based. 007 The path along the shoreline was the perfect way to begin our exploration. The path is paved with rocks stacked as a break wall. During our stay, there were no breaking waves within the protected bay. We could see the tide rolling in, though. This view is toward the city center. By the way – if you are viewing these in softcopy, you can expand the size of pictures for a closer look. 013 View opposite from city center; towards the channel used by cruise and container ships – which we could watch from our room. 015 2
  • 3. 018 020 In the distance, you can make out View closer to the city center. mountains on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. 026 027 Much photographed sculpture of a Viking ship. "Vik" (as in Reykjavik) means bay. Therefore, Viking refers to people of the bay. Harbor at the city center (no longer the main port). The boat "Christina" offers bird watching and fishing excursions. We didn't go on the excursion, just took the picture. We ate at a small Mediterranean restaurant this first full day (most restaurants are small). The waitress/hostess was actually from Bulgaria and had only been in Iceland 10 days. She did not seem thrilled to be there - "It's cold, much warmer back home". 028 3
  • 4. 030 031 June 20, 2012, Quarter till midnight (2345 using Five minutes till midnight (2355) - Sun is a bit Iceland’s 24 hour clock) - Setting sun over the water. lower and dipping between distant mountains. Midnight - Sun remains above the horizon behind distant mountains. Color of rising sun reflecting on clouds. This picture (since it is not pointed directly at the sun) shows how light it is (you could read a book by the light). This is the darkest it gets this time of year. Of course, this also shows the most amount of light there will be 032 six months from now. Ten minutes after midnight (0010) - Sun is 035 036 starting back up in the sky. 4
  • 5. 050 052 The sports complex and recreation area Most of the "Run with the Midnight Sun" race occupies a large tract of land in a valley in the wound through the park. The 5K started at eastern part of Reykjavik. There are open park 10:30 pm (2230) with plenty of daylight; there land, trails, gardens, farm exhibit, children's play was no need for lights. After a warm (not at areas and rides, sports fields (indoor and all hot) and relaxing time in the thermal pool outdoor), skating rink, hot spring pool, etc. - and we walked back to the hotel with the daylight trees. It was in full use - many families. offered by the midnight sun. A very unique experience (as was the entire trip). 054 Another view of the sports complex. Note the sponsor sign of Coca-Cola. The major US chains included Subway, Dominos Pizza, and KFC, but no burger joints (although they had their own drive through brand). The Askirkja Church is on the hill - one of Closer view of Askirkja Church. 055 many architectural churches in Reykjavik. 5
  • 6. Site of super-powers peace summit that led to the end of the Cold War (as it existed before). The picture is from the shoreline path, so obviously the house offered the leaders a tremendous view of the bay. When the summit occurred, there were no other buildings around. Our guide (and the markers) referred to the Peace Summit between President Reagan and Secretary General Gorbachev as the most significant global event in Iceland's history. It demonstrated that Iceland was all about peace, offered a safe and carefree setting, and reflected their concern for the well-being of all people. The actual name of the Peace House is the Hofdi House (Icelandic rune letters would require a different keyboard - which Heather experienced while sending messages from the hotel lobby). It is now used for small conferences 040 receptions or events (can't walk in to look around). 060 062 There are many artists in Iceland - writers, musicians, painters and sculptors. There are many small art museums in Reykjavik. These are sculptures by Asmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). 065 068 Old cemetery on a hill above the Tjornin Pond. The procession (referred to as the parade) after the National Day ceremony stopped here to respect those who came before independence. 6
  • 7. Statue of Ingolfur Arnarson - recognized as the first "permanent” settler of Iceland. 075 Statue of Jon Sigurdsson on the square by the Parliament building. He argued long and hard for Iceland's freedom from Denmark. In 1874, Denmark allowed Iceland to establish a constitution; giving them authority to govern themselves (to a degree - trade was still controlled by Denmark). Independence occurred in 1944 when Nazi Germany over ran Denmark. Iceland took the stance that the previous agreement was with the Denmark Monarchy - which became void when the Nazi's dissolved the Monarchy. The Allied nations backed their claim. Independence Day was established on June 17, Jon Sigurdsson's birthday. 077 View across Austuuvollur Square. The building with the flag is the Althingi (House of Parliament). Iceland’s Parliament is still small enough to conduct official business here. 078 7
  • 8. As we walked around on the 17th (our first full day of sightseeing) we stood against a rope and watched while some youth practiced marching with Icelandic flags. Then the honor guard marched in and lined up (we are not sure who makes up the honor guard (our term) since there is no military service. Maybe police or members of the Coast Guard?). Next thing we knew, a few security personnel took positions along the rope, the Church bells rang, and out came the President and Prime Minister; followed by diplomats and special guests. We found ourselves with a front row view of the official National Day ceremony. 088 The President and Prime Minister laid a wreath at Jon Sigurdsson's statue - and we were just yards away from these leaders. When Heather met with the Reykjavik Public Librarians, she mentioned her amazement of how close the public was during such an official ceremony. One Librarian got an aggravated look on her face and stated that two years ago there was no rope and you could sit where you wanted. Last year she was told she had to sit in the back so she didn't bother attending this year because of how things had changed. We were amazed by the access; she was disappointed by the “control”. 089 Youth choir signing national songs during the procession of the President and Prime Minister. Icelanders who had attended the official the church service started gathering around the rope, so we left to give them room – it was their special day. 093 8
  • 9. 114 Oldest standing building in Reykjavik (1762). There were a lot of fires in Reykjavik during the 1970s and 1980s so they banned wood framed buildings. This one survived. Downtown sculpture reflecting the 106 geothermal activity of the island. 109 View of the city's beautiful architecture. Love the mountain in the background. The architecture isn't very old by European (or even American) standards. Iceland was extremely poor for much 108 of it's history, so there were not many show-case View across Tjornin, the large pond in Reykjavik. homes built by "the wealthy". The 1990s and early The building at the left is the City Government 2000s brought increased prosperity. As with many Building. The "person" on the bench is another other countries, they over extended the building sculpture. The far side of the pond was filled with boom and international credit holdings grew booths and entertainment for the National Day beyond control. The bust hit hard. Tourism (not a festival; which included music, rides, a puppet major industry prior to then) has helped their show with a huge crowd of children, a vintage car recovery – which a guide thanked us for. show featuring many American models, and a strong man competition. 9
  • 10. The National Museum was very good (and free on National Day). Settlement of the island is a recent event historically speaking. There were no-pre-history peoples. Extensive use of sod and wood for early buildings results in few ruins. Churches were the most long lasting structures from which historians could build an understanding of early settlements. Displays also show recent (within our lifetime) aspects of society, including a collection of photographs from ordinary citizens. There is also a display on the 1972 Fischer / Spassky World Chess Championship held in Iceland. 111 Note that the sign includes English as well as Icelandic. Displays (in all museums) were in Icelandic and English. Most of our fellow tourists were from Europe, but English is the default language for non-Icelandic speakers. While the tourist excursions were in English this didn't mean they were catering to the American and British tourists which were in the minority. The exception was the number of German speaking tours offered (again, they came by the busloads). Also note that "Iceland" is "Island" in Icelandic. We also toured the City Settlement Museum (no picture) - an archeological excavation of an early home. 112 Einer Jonsson sculpture along the Tjornin Pond. More on this artist later. 107 10
  • 11. 120 View of what has become the "upscale" shopping street - Skolavoroustigur. It leads up to Hallgrimskirkja Church which dominates most views of the city. Architecture is based on columns of 122 volcanic basalt rock. Statue is of Leifur Eiriksson. 123 Guides pointed out with pride how Eiriksson discovered North American long before Columbus. 121 View from Hallgrimskirkja Church down Skolavoroustigur. 11
  • 12. View inside Hallgrimskirkja Church . Simplistic (vice ornate) but grand. 132 133 The pipe organ is huge and beautiful. The church hosts many recitals and concerts. The backs of the pews easily switch positions so people can sit facing the organ. Stained glass window in the Church. 147 Beautiful Baptismal Font. Every Icelandic birth is registered with the Lutheran Church. People can change their registration but many don't bother. As a result over 84% of the Icelandic people are Lutheran (according to the registry). 138 Hallgrimskirkja Pulpit. 139 12
  • 13. City view from the Hallgrimskirkja Church bell tower. Looking toward downtown and the original harbor. The ridge along the horizon to the right is the same one we view from our hotel. 155 The dome structure just right of center is the Perlan (referred to as the "Pearl"). It is a museum, restaurant and observation point built on top of huge tanks used to store hot water for Reykjavik. Pictures from that location appear later. 158 View of the shoreline and the path we used to get back to our hotel. We happened to be in the tower when noon chimed. We could feel the reverberation. 160 13
  • 14. 171 Loved the "stack 'em where you can" used book store. Icelandic people love to read - and write (one in ten will be published). This is a store you could spend days in - if you could read Icelandic. 172 We think this must be the shop Heather's brother Greg visited and struck up a sitar jam session with the owner. We'll find out for sure. 173 174 Reykjavik is famous for its lamb and beef Picture opportunity along the longest hotdogs. Somehow we didn't get around to shopping/dining street - Laugavegur. eating here, even though we planned to. Icelandic mythology is filled with Trolls, More than one guide told the story that Bill Elves and Hidden People who live farm and Clinton ate hot dogs at this stand, and had his raise families among the rocks. Planned heart attach a month later. They love that roads are willingly (matter-of factly) re-routed story - the Icelandic sense of humor was if they come across rocks recognized as clearly evident throughout our trip. places where hidden people live. 14
  • 15. 177 182 Harpa Concert Hall - a unique architecture with Inside the City Government Building (which prism-shaped glass; again inspired by volcanic is bigger than the Parliament Building) is a basalt rock formations. The building reflects large relief map of the island. Of course the light in multiple ways and colors. We mentioned old cartographer Dave loved it. it positively to one guide who disagreed. Many A partial view of the building from across the see it as an intrusion of the shoreline. It is seen pond was on picture 108 (page 9). as an example of Reykjavik trying to become cosmopolitan which was out of character. It is also one of the reminders of the building boom that contributed to the financial crisis. The people we met were more than willing to share their perspectives - which was a good way to understand their society in a personal manner. 186 During Heather's meeting with the Librarians, she learned about one of their intercultural 191 programs – Women's Story Circle. They created Hateigskirkja Church - another this “map” of the Reyjkavik area. It was on architecturally unique church within display in the City Government Building. Reykjavik. There are many bells in the towers. 15
  • 16. 200 Some of the colorful homes throughout the city. 205 This intricate mosaic is made from many small pieces of tile. It covers an entire side of a building. 202 Another bright and colorful building. We wondered what WOW Air was (ventilation systems?, radio station?). We found it Heather is standing in front of another 206 was an actual airline when we saw ticket section of the mosaic. counters at the airport. Fly WOW! Beautiful! 16
  • 17. 210 211 Einar Jonsson (1874-1954) was Iceland's View from the sculpture garden. first famous sculptor. Many of his works Jonsson and his wife lived on the small are throughout the city. He built this home top floor, the middle floor was a display and workshop on top of a hill outside of area, and the massive ground floor was town when there was nothing else around - his workshop. but this has changed over the years. This picture is taken from the grounds of the Hallgrimskirkja Church. The building houses many of his works. A sculpture garden is in the back. 232 235 We are now inside the Perlan (see picture View of the dining area with the 158, page 13). observation level on top. There is a The ground floor of the "Pearl" displays many view from inside, or you can walk works of art (plus a small museum and gift around the outside of the dome. It was shop). We believe the palm trees reflect a windy and misty day but we walked all more of the Icelandic sense of humor. The around the observation deck. rounded walls are actually sides of the water tanks the observation tower is built on. 17
  • 18. View from the Perlan - of Reykjavik and surrounding mountains. 236 The clouds cleared over this mountain. To the left you can see the bell towers of Hateigskirkja Church (see picture 191, page 15). We reference other pictures to make the point of how close (relatively) everything is. We could easily walk most places (although this location was a stop on the Reykjavik bus tour we took). 237 View toward Hallgrimskirkja Church. 239 18
  • 19. 245 The excursion van took us through surrounding suburbs 250 Zoomed-in view from Perlan across (seven towns grew together to make up the Reykjavik the Reykjavik Airport (regional flights to metropolitan area). 80% of Iceland's 320,000 population other parts of the island only). The (320,034 according to one sign in a restaurant - more of their buildings in the distance (red roofs) are sense of humor?) lives in this metropolitan area. the President's home. We came to an old farmstead near the end of a peninsula. This is where the President lives. The Icelandic flag was raised - meaning the President was there. We were asked, out of respect, to not go beyond the Church building. That was it - in terms of security. No gate, no fence, no guards, no snipers stationed on the roof. Another unique experience. 251 View from the grounds of the President's home 253 Many large farm complexes of the early looking back towards Reykjavik. We started talking to a territorial leaders included churches. These were journalist who was riding with the tour. He mentioned that symbols of power and sources of income (they got the next Presidential election was 30 June, and the leading a portion of the tithes). When the economy crisis challenger (Ms. Thora Arnorsdottir) was the wife of a long- hit a few years ago, people were mad that the time friend. Heather voiced surprise that there was no Parliament was discussing minor issues rather indication that a major election was less than two weeks than addressing the crisis. They started banging away. He mentioned that his friend had just put up some on pots and pans outside of the Parliament posters at bus stops. Debates were held, but Building. Many of the members were forced to advertisement-type techniques are not how they do things. resign by this "pots and pans" revolution. The When Heather mentioned to one of the librarians that we guide told that some protesters came to the met someone who knew Ms. Thora, she replied - "Oh yes, President's home. It was cold out, so he came out I had lunch with her yesterday". It is a small country. and invited them in for coffee and hot chocolate. By the way, the incumbent was re-elected. 19
  • 20. 301 303 Our first excursion outside of Reykjavik Our first stop was at Gerouberg Cliff a was north to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula long cliff formation of volcanic basalt (Mon. 18 June). The bus took us through rugged (the inspiration of artwork and landscape with numerous old lava fields. We saw architecture). many small farms with free-range grazing sheep (not in flocks), horses and a few cattle. Hay is harvested where ever it can be to help feed the animals through the long winters. This picture shows a few remnants of ancient volcanoes. 308 View from the cliff across the vast landscape (ancient volcano in the distance). 305 The climb to the exposed rock was fairly steep and the cliff was tall. 20
  • 21. The shoreline at Arnarstapi, along the southern 314 315 coast of the peninsula, was extremely rugged. The very hard volcanic rocks form vertical cliffs Many seagulls nest on the steep cliffs. and tall standing rock formations. 317 319 We visited at low tide, which More rock formations. A few feet from where Dave exposed more of the rock. is squatting is a sheer drop to rocks below. There are few safety measures at the parks in Iceland. As with most countries, there liability laws are different than what exists in the US. 325 Looking inland from the coastline. 323 Monument to the local protective entity. 21
  • 22. 335 337 Black sand beach near the end of the The pebbles got smaller as we neared Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Walking through the the coast. smooth oval pebbles along the shore was cool - and a challenge. The rust colored items are metal debris from a ship wreck. It is left in place out of respect for those who lost their lives. Unfortunately, our time at the black sand 340 beach was short. We hiked a whirlwind circuit, but would have loved to spend more time here. 338 It is taking Mother Nature a long time to turn this rock into black sand. 22
  • 23. 342 351 View of the Snaefellsjokull Glacier at the end Visit to Stykkisholmur Village; a small, but still of the peninsula. When the sky was clear, we active, fishing village. The harbor is well protected could see this feature from our hotel room (see by the massive rock. A quota system and picture 018, page 3 – this is the distant regulations try to maintain the viability of these mountain at the far left on that picture). small fishing operations and communities. 353 354 View from the fishing harbor. There are Sheer volcanic basalt cliff of the numerous rocky islands just off the coast. massive rock seen above (picture 351). 23
  • 24. 363 This excursion was heading into rough 361 road and off-road territory within On Tue. 19 June, our excursion took us along the southern coast to Thorsmork Thorsmork. A bus like this (and an (Thor's Woods) National Park. We drove through experienced driver) was a must. Some vast flat "fertile" (by Icelandic standards) agricultural people hire vehicles, like the one next to areas We could have been in Nebraska (minus the our bus, for small group excursions. grain crops). This picture is of the volcano that erupted in 2010 - disrupting air travel over much of Europe. We were expecting to see a lot of devastation, but that was not the case – recovery has been rapid. The volcano is Eyjafjallajokull. This rolls easily off the tongue of Icelandic speakers. 366 Thorsmork (note: the actual spelling uses a rune-like character similar to a P with the post extending above the loop. Everywhere in this guide where you see "th" for place names or a 365 person's name (i.e. the Presidential candidate), View of the rugged valley leading into the rune is actually used in the spelling). Thorsmork. Streams meander through the valley carving ever changing paths through View as the bus was fording this stream. the rock and rubble. Holding a steady camera in the bouncing, rocking and rolling bus was a challenge. 24
  • 25. 373 The hard volcanic rock erodes into 371 huge, sheer and fascinating Thorsmork National Park formations. The guide leads us on a hike through Stakkholtsgja, a valley that narrows progressively into a gorge. 375 Like the bus, we had to ford our own streams on the hike. The experienced guide bounded right across - then lent a steadying hand to all us tourists. 377 The valley narrowed into a gorge along the way. We didn’t follow this branch, but continued to what the guide promised would be a special treat. 25
  • 26. 378 The destination of our Stakkholtsgja hike was this very tall, vertical cut into the rock. A waterfall cascades down the cliff forming a pipe-like cut. We climbed into the crevasse and onto the fallen rocks to be right in the midst of this natural wonder. It was a special treat as promised. Pictures cannot capture this spectacular 381 feature, but here is one attempt. The water is falling along the right side of the "pipe". This hike was a highlight of the trip's highlights. Beautiful Awesome 389 26
  • 27. 396 View across the large rugged valley. There was off-n-on drizzle during this hike. Starting a second hike after off-roading 395 deeper into the park's large valley. This location offered camping spaces and basic services for people on days-long hikes. This portion of the park also contains large tracts of Birch trees (the only tree native to the island). Throughout our visit, guides referred to any stand of trees, no matter how small, as a "forest" - probably that is the translation since we were often looking at the results of reforestation projects. View of our hiking destination - after walking 400 along the narrow ridge at the lower left on the Numerous small flowers blossom during the 397 picture. The background shows another view of short growing season. Here are a few examples. the valley with meandering rivers and streams. 27
  • 28. 403 Another view from the rock formation we hiked 401 to. We then finished the loop back to the bus. View from the rock formation on the previous A young British man and his 80-something (we picture - looking back at the path we took think) grandmother were on the hike. She hiked along well (an inspiration), but slow. Falling behind on this loop trail, they took a wrong turn and became lost. As we all waited on the bus, the guide made another quick loop but couldn't find them. He started a second loop with the bus driver heading along the valley in case they picked up a different trail and existed elsewhere. While driving, Heather spotted them sliding down the hill to get to the valley. The driver worked the bus over to them, then picked up the guide (who had quite a workout). It was raining steady at that point, so they were wet as well. The grandmother quickly fell asleep - thankfully safe. View of a glacier finger extending toward 413 a valley. This looks like a black and white shot, but it is the same camera. With the black rock, white ice, and grey sky, these The dark streaks are from layers of dust/soil 412 were the only colors in view. that accumulates between layers of ice. These are exposed as the ice melts. 28
  • 29. Back near the entrance to the national park is 420 423 Seljalandsfoss. While not a spectacular falls Seljalandsfoss is also popular because (according to our guide), this falls is a popular stop you can walk behind the cascading because of its proximity to Thorsmork’s entrance water. We thought it was spectacular (visitors don't have to go off-road to get to it). (i.e. by Shenandoah standards). 429 In addition to the Seljalandsfoss, there are many smaller falls emerging over the ridge. The water is only partially from the summer melting of snow. 426 Much of it is precipitation that falls on the island. View from the other side of the falls - the direction the mist was blowing. 29
  • 30. 445 The Golden Circle excursion started along back roads just outside the Reykjavik metropolitan area. We drove through lava fields that do not have much vegetation taking hold. We came to an area where geothermal steam vents reach the surface. Thingvallavatn (the lake), our destination area, can be seen in the distance. 446 View of bore holes (the white domes) that tap into the natural source of energy. Pipes carry the hot steam and water to the energy plant (later in the tour). 448 The Golden Circle excursion is one of the most popular tours. Cruise ships offer this tour to their passengers. Plus it was a Saturday, so each stop was shared with many people. The white bus is ours - the largest of any excursion we took. The other bus is with the same company (Iceland Excursions - Grey Line) and on the same run; only it was conducted in German. Another view of the natural steam vents with Thingvallavatn in the distance. The thick moss that has grown on top of the lava rocks is very soft and cushiony. Our feet sunk down into it. 452 30
  • 31. 465 Thingvellir National Park is extensive and contains many natural wonders. It is popular with tourists, and also is a vacation spot for Icelandic people. There are numerous summer cottages throughout the area. The lake is very clear. Excursion companies offer The Atlantic Ridge that separates the North 463 scuba tours (with very warm wet suits) to view the American teutonic plate and the Eurasia plate underwater formations and water life. runs through this part of Iceland. These two plates (and therefore the island) are pulling apart at about two centimeters a year - leaving a deep and uneven trench in the landscape. Notice the two columns of steam on the side of the mountain in the distance; that was our first stop. 467 471 Another view of the separating teutonic Two of the massive number of tourists. plates - looking away from the lake. There is a large multi-bus parking lot and a visitors center at this site. Pay toilets, though. 31
  • 32. 478 Althingi is the site of the annual gathering of ancient leaders and their entourages from across the island. They met to rule on official business, form agreements, and govern themselves. This is seen as one of the earliest parliamentary forms of governance in the world. If you remember page 7, the current Parliament Building has the same name (Althingi). 480 Example of how clear the water is. The day we visited, the interior part of the island This is a view of rocks on the actually reached 23 degrees C (upper 60s - 70 F). bottom of the stream (not algae Short sleeves in Iceland! floating on top). 482 View of the surrounding landscape. It was 483 View from the spot where the Icelandic fairly lush along the small rivers that leaders conducted official business. Social meander through this valley. It could easily and competitive events were also part of support a large gathering of people and their this annual gathering. animals. 32
  • 33. 484 More picture at Althingi. Another view or the valley - looking towards the lake (Thingvallavatn). 490 View of a large stream that falls from the cliff, then cuts a parallel course along its base. 493 The stream then enters the ancient meeting grounds. The flag pole marks the spot of the official meeting. The lush streams and vegetation seen on the previous pictures lay in between the near and far rock formations. 501 33
  • 34. 508 Gulfoss is a crowning jewel on the Golden Circle Tour. Truly awesome display of nature. 509 View of the distant mountains that are a source of the water. The vast flat land funnels the water to the falls 510 Once the water falls, it takes a 90 degree turn to cut a deep and narrow gorge through the hard volcanic rock. Tremendous amounts of spray chimney up above the gorge. Very unique and awesome. 513 34
  • 35. 518 More pictures of Gulfoss. Directly above the falling water - looking along the narrow gorge. 523 The sound of thundering water was awesome. At the National Gallery of Iceland in Reykjavik, there is a display that encases a series of large panels. When you pull one out, you see a transparent picture of one of Iceland’s prominent falls, and also here a recording of the sound it makes. Of course there is nothing like the real thing. 525 A view downstream from the falls. A partial and distant view of a large glacier - Langjokull. The ice extends beyond the full length of the picture. This is as close as this excursion came to it. 536 35
  • 36. 540 Geysir is the name of this location - from which our term geyser came from. This is the most popular and accessible site of geothermal pools and geysers. Not nearly as extensive as Yellowstone, but still wonderful. 541 We hiked, on our own, up a small ridge flanking the Geysir area and came across this hot spring bubbling to the surface, then flowing down to join the main area of geothermal activity. Bubbling hot springs in Geysir. The area is open for people to wonder as they wish. We even saw a camper rinsing a metal pot by dipping it into a spring (not a smart move). 551 36
  • 37. View of the Geysir area from the ridge we hiked up. Happened to catch the main geyser erupting. 544 Another view from the ridge – the upper portion of the hot spring area.. 545 View of the other side of the ridge; which opened to a lush (relatively speaking) valley. 546 37
  • 38. 563 Skalkolt – site of the first bishops’ compound on Iceland. This is a reconstructed old church. Archeological digs are discovering numerous structures and providing insight into how they lived and interacted with others in the area. 565 Distant view of Hekla, Iceland's most active volcano - erupting about every 10 years. The guide said it was due. Our last stop on the Golden Circle excursion was at the Geothermal Energy Plant outside of Reykjavik. Use of geothermal energy sources is why Iceland exists today (in the words of the plant's guide). It supplies reliable and inexpensive heating and hot water to most of the inhabitants. Recently, a contingent of Japanese energy experts visited the plant to learn how they can tap into this source of energy on their island (they had made the nuclear choice years ago, but are rethinking the decision after the tsunami disaster). They commented on the irony of going to Iceland to see how to utilize geothermal power and finding the generators and equipment were manufactured in Japan. 570 Some of the generators. Notice the pipes coming over the hill carrying steam and water from sites such as the one the Golden Circle excursion started with. 571 38
  • 39. 591 594 The largest brewery in Iceland (Egils brands) A sample of the offerings. Gull is their award is in a suburb adjacent to Reykjavik. The tour winning beer. It flowed freely – which the lads was a surprisingly small group (11 of us). took full advantage of. When we arrived, a local resident dropped The other major brewery (Vifilfrll) creates Viking off 5 young English soccer players and and Thule brands and is in Akureyri in the arranged for them to joined our group. northern part of the island. The clean Icelandic water does not require chlorination – a reason This tour was not about the plant and brewing for the great taste. Unfortunately, we have not process. The hostess talked about the found Icelandic beers offered anywhere in the history and cultural aspects of Icelandic beer. northern VA area. It was all about entertainment (Heather The hostess asked everyone in the group where thought the hostess was an actor by trade). they were from. There were the British Lads of The British "Lads" (as the hostess referred to course, another person from Britain, a couple them) added to the entertainment experience from Canada, one lady from Australia, and the (leading the group in a pub song at one rest from America. Everyone who signed up for point). the brewery tour was from an English speaking country - go figure. 596 597 The hostess gathered cameras for group The hostess took a second picture with our pictures as we toasted "Skal". The Lads are camera after the posed "Skal". the enthusiastic ones in the back. Clearly everyone had fun. Allow us to say "unique" once again. 39
  • 40. 611 View from the back of the building. The Reykjavik harbor is behind us. Heather had arranged to meet with the Youth 610 Services librarians at the Reykjavik Public Library to share experiences and information on programs. View of the Library which is located near the Reykjavik harbor. The top floor of the building houses the Museum of Photography; which rotates works by Icelandic artists. There is a colorful and fanciful mural painted along the entire wall of the building (parking lot side). When Heather asked about it, the librarian answered that an American artist offered to paint the mural, which was accepted. They had no real idea of what he had in mind. She was clearly not thrilled with the result. But she accepts it in true Icelandic spirit. 643 40
  • 41. 628 Heather with an example of the public art that was on display throughout the library.. 630 View of the library interior. Dave read magazines while Heather met with the staff. They provide magazines in English as well as Icelandic. We close our highlights with this statue – the likeness of a prevalent ancient icon found throughout the island. There are differing opinions of what the icon represents or symbolizes. People don’t agree on what the figure is holding. Icelandic people don’t worry about any of this. They still revere it as part of their heritage (as much as the trolls, elves, and hidden people.) This trip was more than we could have imagined. Awesome country and awesome people. We returned with more memories than could be captured in this summary. Very unique experience! 262 41