Eco-Labels in Textiles

1. Eco-Labels
in
Textiles
By
Kanhaya kumawat

2. Introduction
• Promotion of environment friendly products
“green products”
• Information about a product’s environmental
impact
• Promotion of the development of
environmentally improved production methods
• Types of approach:
i) Life cycle or ‘cradle to grave’ analysis (LCA)
ii) Single issue label by third party certification

3. History
• Both in Europe and North America environmental concerns
arose in the 1970’s and 1980’s to a prominence in public
discourse never before known.
• Claims such as “eco-friendly”, “environmentally safe”,
“recyclable”, “biodegradable”, “ozone friendly”, “safe in a
landfill”, etc. bombarded consumers.
• Differentiating fact from fiction and meaningful from irrelevant
became difficult and so the idea of third party certification via
eco-labels was born.
• Eco-labels are designed to inform consumers that the labeled
product is more environmentally friendly than most in its
category.

4. Contd…
• Textile Eco-labeling involves production-process standards,
raising concern of developing countries in the form of technical
barrier for trade (TBT) and an important market access tool by
elite traders.
• Introduction of Eco-label facilitates the markets to value
process attributes and reward producers of environment-
friendly attributes.
• The label increases the cost of production of the textile
product.
• In other words, Eco-labeled goods meet some process
standards and declare their higher environmental quality to
consumers through the label.

5. Criteria for Eco labeling
• Group I - Baby clothing
• Group II - Textiles worn next to skin
• Group III - Textiles worn as the second layer /
higher level

6. Restrictions
• Banned amines from azo dyes
• Formaldehyde
• Pentachlorophenol
• Flame retardants
• Cadmium, Nickel, Chromium
• Organochlorines

7. Carcinogenic amines
Aromatic amines CAS No.
2 Naphthylamine 91-59-8
4 aminobiphenyl 92-67-1
4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
Benzidine 92-87-5
2,4,5-trimethylaniline 137-17-7
2,4 diaminoanisol 615-05-4
2,4 toluylendiamine 95-80-7
2-amino-4-nitrotoluene
3,3’,dichorobenzidene
3,3’,dimethoxybenzidene(3,3’,dianisidine)
3,3’,diphenyl-4,4’,diaminodiphenylmethane
3,3’,dimethyl benzidene (o-tolidine)
4,4’,diaminodiphenylmethane
4,4’,methylene-bis-(2 chloraniline)
4,4’,oxydianiline
4,4’,thiodianiline
o-amino azotoluene
o-toluidine
p-chloroaniline
p-cresidine
o-anisidine
p-amino azobenzene
99-55-8
91-94-1
119-90-4
838-88-0
119-93-7
101-77-9
101-14-4
101-80-4
139-65-1
97-56-3
95-53-4
106-47-8
120-71-8
90-4-2
60-9-3

8. Types of Eco Labeling Schemes
• Independent / private labels
• National labels
• Multinational labels

9. Contd…
Legal status Organization Eco-label examples
Private Non-governmental
organizations (NGOs)
Good Environmental Choice (Sweden)
Institution Related Oeko-Tex (Eco Tex ) 100 (Germany)
Producer’s Association AKN Trademark (Germany)
Company Related Steilmann; Otto Versand; Hess Natur;
Green Cotton
Government National EKO Seal (Holland); Environmental
Choice (Canada); Eco Mark (Japan);
Environmental Labelling (China); Eco
Mark (India)
Multinational EU-label; Nordic Eco-label
Eco-labeling schemes and their legal status

10. Contd…
• It improves the programs economic stability, local
protection, credibility in the opinion of manufactures
and consumers.
• Provide dependable long terms resources.
• Overcome high start-up and monitoring cost, thereby
allowing lower prices and greater participation from
small and medium scale manufacturers (SMEs)
• Allow facilitation of international standard.
• Provide better terms accountability and technical
expertise in certain areas.
• Ensure public observation, review and comment on
proposed standards.
Advantages of Eco-labeling programs

11. Contd…
• Product selection
• Criteria development
• Public review process
• Adoption of final criteria
• Application to competent body for eco-label
• Testing and verification
• Award of eco-label
General procedure for the development of eco-labels
is characterized by the following sequential steps:

12. The Blue Angel
• This is the world’s first national ecolabelling program
introduced in 1977. The German “Umweltbundesamt” (UBA)
or Federal Environmental Agency, in co-ordination with the
Environmental Label Jury has set up the eco-label.
Objectives:
• Guiding the consumer in purchasing the quality products
with fewer adverse environmental impacts.
• Encouraging manufacturers to “develop and supply
environmentally sound products”
• Using the eco-label as a “market oriented instrument of
environmental policy”

13. The Blue Angel
Salient features:
• Transportation and distribution costs,
• Product uses,
• Potential for the product to be reused,
• Maintenance costs,
• Recyclability,
• Final disposal,
• The product’s ingredients and materials
restrictions.

14. EU Eco-label
• The EU Eco-label was established in 1992 by the European Community
Regulation with the aim of helping consumers to identify products which
are less damaging to the environment across the whole of their life cycle.
The EU eco-label is voluntary, finding increasing acceptance in member
states.
Objective:
• To develop ecolabeling criteria encompassing process and product-related
criteria following the procedures of life-cycle analysis together with
stipulating quality requirements
Product categories:
• Bed linen
• T-shirts
• Bed mattresses
• Footwear
• Textile products

15. EU Eco-label
Salient features:
• The commission has delegated to member states the responsibility of
establishing the criteria for different product groups and for designating
national component bodies responsible for processing applications for the
European eco-label at a national level.
• Test methods are standardized in detail.
• Bans of certain substances according to European legislation are
effectuated.
• The chemical oxygen demand (COD) of wastewater from wet treatment is
limited and determined according to the ISO 6060 standard for water
quality.
• Occupational Conditions too have been considered.
• A written assessment of the risk to safety and health at work has to be
submitted as part of the application

16. EU Eco-label
Chemicals For Garments For Household and Furnishing
Textiles
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited Prohibited
Formaldehyde 75 ppm 75 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Prohibited Prohibited
Pesticide Prohibited
(list of 25 substances)
Prohibited
(list of 25 substances)
Other Compounds Prohibited carcinogenic carriers Prohibited carcinogenic carriers
Quality or process demands Yes Yes
Arsenic No use of metals in pesticides,
dyes and pigments
No use of metals in pesticides,
dyes and pigments
Standards / Norms:

17. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
• World’s first multinational eco-labeling scheme and the
Nordic Eco-labeling Board Issuing agency.
• The Nordic Council of ministers decided in November 1989 to
implement a harmonized, voluntary and positive Nordic
Environmental Eco-labeling system for various products.
• The Nordic Eco-labeling Board is a member of GEN and most
of the Nordic countries are participating in the development
of ISO draft standards. The Board is also working with the EU
to further develop the EU eco-label scheme.
• Denmark joined the Nordic eco-labeling system in 1997.
• The eco-labels viz; Nordic Swan and the EU flower are the two
official eco-labels in Denmark.

18. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
Objective:
• To provide consumers with guidance to help them to choose the products
and services that are least hazardous to the environment from the range
available in the market, and thereby encourage product development that
takes into account environmental factors in addition to other quality
considerations.
Product categories:
• Yarns
• Baby clothing
• Outerwear
• Curtains
• Furnishing textiles
• Bed linen
• Other textiles
• Diapers

19. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
Salient features:
• Holders of a certificate of one of the Nordic countries are entitled to use
the environmental label in other Nordic countries as well.
• Recycled fibers recovered from post-consumer waste can obtain the
certificate
• Semi-manufactured and final products, regardless of their intended use,
are eligible for the Nordic eco-label.
• Manufacturers must comply with domestic labor regulations, as well as
quality and performance requirements
• During fiber processing, the use of suspected carcinogenic substances is
only permitted, if they do not account for more than 0.1 percent of
chemical products.
• Chemical products must not contain substances, which are classified as
environmentally hazardous, in excess of 2 percent.
• Heavy metals must not be applied to textiles with the exception of copper,
cobalt and chromium, which may be used in mordant dyeing

20. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
Chemicals For Garments
Certain azo-dyes -
Formaldehyde 30 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Chlorophenol 20 mg/kg
Pesticide EOX, 3 ppm, list of
compounds which
may be used to certain limits
Other Compounds -
Quality or process
Demands
Yes
Arsenic -
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Cr VI
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
-
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 mg/kg
Total 900 mg/kg,
0.02 mg/kg
0.02 mg/kg
4 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
Chemicals For Garments
Certain azo-dyes -
Formaldehyde 100 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Chlorophenol 20 mg/kg
Pesticide EOX, 3 ppm, list of
compounds which
may be used to certain limits
Other Compounds -
Quality or process
Demands
Yes
Arsenic 0.2 mg/kg
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Cr VI
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
-
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 mg/kg
Total 900 mg/kg,
0.02 mg/kg
0.02 ppm
4 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
-
Norms for different Nordic eco-label programs
Swan A, B Swan C

21. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
Norms for different Nordic eco-label programs
Swan D, E, F Swan G
Chemicals For Household and
Furnishing textiles
Certain azo-dyes -
Formaldehyde 300 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Chlorophenol 20 mg/kg
Pesticide EOX< 3 ppm, list of
compounds which may be
used to certain limits
Other Compounds -
Quality or process
Demands
Yes
Arsenic 0.2 mg/kg
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Cr VI
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
-
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 mg/kg
Total 900 mg/kg,
0.02 mg/kg
0.02 mg/kg
4 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
-
Chemicals For Garments
Certain azo-dyes
Formaldehyde 100 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Chlorophenol 20 mg/kg
Pesticide EOX< 3 ppm, list of
compounds which may be
used to certain limits
Other Compounds -
Quality or process
Demands
Yes
Arsenic 0.2 mg/kg
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Cr VI
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
-
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 mg/kg
Total 900 mg/kg,
0.02 mg/kg
0.02 mg/kg
4 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
-

22. Nordic eco-labeling scheme
Norms for different Nordic eco-label programs
Swan G
Chemicals For Household and Furnishing textiles
Certain azo-dyes -
Formaldehyde 30 ppm
Pentachlorophenol Chlorophenol 20 mg/kg
Pesticide EOX< 3 ppm, list of compounds which may be
used to certain limits
Other Compounds -
Quality or process
Demands
Yes
Arsenic 0.2 mg/kg
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
-
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 mg/kg
Total 900 mg/kg,
Cr VI 0.02 mg/kg
0.02 mg/kg
4 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
900 mg/kg
-

23. Chinese Eco labeling scheme
• The Chinese eco-label program is known as the China
Certification Committee for Environmental Labeling of Products
(CCEL).
• It is a third party certification under the direction of the China
State Bureau of Technology Supervision (CSBTS) and the
National Environmental Protection Agency (NEPA).
• The CCEL was established in May 1994, which marked the official
launch of China’s environment labeling.
• The development of CCEL was prompted by commitments made
by the Chinese government at the 1992 UN Conference on
Environment and Development.
• CCEL consults other environmental labeling programs in the
setting of its own product criteria.

24. Chinese Eco labeling scheme
Product criteria are formulated to reflect four major
considerations.
• Product must meet all applicable quality, safety and
hygiene standards, as stated by law.
• Labeled products must minimize their potential
environmental impact.
• The criteria should reflect both the local conditions in
China.
• The criteria should be easily understood by the average
consumer.

25. Chinese Eco labeling scheme
Objective:
• The eco-label is designed to reduce domestic environmental
stress of products by using market forces as a means to
supplement mandatory environmental laws.
• It tries to target products that have significant environmental
impact, that cause global environmental problems.
• It also aims to increase public awareness of the environmental
impact of products.
• To promote China’s environmentally friendly products is also one
of the program’s objectives.

26. Environmental Choice
Program (Canada)
• The Environmental Choice Program (ECP) was created as a
voluntary eco-labeling program by Environment Canada (the
environment department of Government of Canada) in 1988.
Objectives:
• To encourage the efficient management of renewable
resources to ensure their availability to future generations.
• To promote the efficient use of non-renewable resources,
including fossil fuels; facilitate the reduction, reuse and
recycling of industrial, commercial and consumer waste.
• To encourage the protection of ecosystems and species
diversity.
• To encourage the proper management of chemicals in
products.

27. Environmental Choice
Program (Canada)
Salient features:
• All stages of production including transportation and disposal of wastes
have to comply with national standards.
• The term “Reusable cloth diapers” has to be indicated on the product or
its packaging.
• The technical guidelines for cloth diapers prescribe a minimum number of
75 uses, that they be home washable and do not include a non-reusable
component.
• For reusable utility bags, a minimum life cycle of 300 uses, a minimum
capacity and carrying load under wet conditions are prescribed according
to their intended use.
• No requirements are formulated for the material, production or content of
hazardous substances in addition to legal requirements.
• Product should be manufactured from 100 percent organically grown
cotton.

28. Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)
Objective:
• The Oeko-Tex label is to guarantee that textiles do not contain
hazardous substances in amounts that could impair human
health within normal conditions of their usage.
Product categories:
• Fibers, Yarns, Fabrics and Accessories
• Products with direct contact to skin (e.g. blouses, shirts,
underwear, etc.)
• Products without skin contact (e.g. outer fabrics, linings and
stuffing)
• Household (decorative) products. (e.g. tablecloths, floor
coverings, mattresses, etc.)

29. Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)
Salient features:
• Oeko-Tex standard is gaining significance in the USA market as well. In
order to be largely harmonized with RSL (Restricted Substances List) of the
AAFA (American Association of Footwear and Apparel), some additional
criteria will be added in the Oeko-Tex standard 100:
-Six chloro-organic pesticides are being added (Isodrine /
Kelevane / Perthane / Kepone / Strobane / and Telodrine)
-Ban of Triphenyltin (TPhT)
-Ban of asbestos fibers
• As European Union has recently reclassified DBT (di-butyl tin), as a result,
the existing requirements for DBT from Product Class 1 [existing limit value
1 ppm] to Product Classes 2 to 4 [new limit value 2 ppm] are likely be
amended.

30. Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)
Salient features:
• [TeCP] Tetrachlorophenol: In view of the legal regulations in
Switzerland, all the 3 isomers of TeCP are now banned. Hence,
the existing limit value will hereafter be the limit of the total
content [SUM] of all the 3 TeCP’s detected.
• The ACP [Active Chemical Products] concept will be extended
to product class 4, for products with biological activity only.
Products with flame-retardant properties would be further
allowed in product class 4.
• The ACP concept will furthermore be extended to cosmetic-
textiles that actively store and release substances during the
wear process.

31. Oeko – 103 – Direct skin contact
(For Garments)
Hazardous Substances Remarks/Limits
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited
Formaldehyde 75 ppm
Pentachlorophenol
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol
0.5 ppm
0.5 ppm
Pesticide Total 1.0 ppm
Other compounds Prohibited Chloro-genic
carriers
Quality or process
demands
Yes
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
pH
1.0 ppm
30.0 ppm
1.0 ppm
0.1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
Cr 2.0 ppm
0.02 ppm
4 ppm
50 ppm
4 ppm
4.5-7.5
Oeko – 103 – Without skin contact
(For Garments)
Hazardous Substances Remarks/Limits
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited
Formaldehyde 300 ppm
Pentachlorophenol
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol
0.5 ppm
0.5 ppm
Pesticide Total 1.0 ppm
Other compounds Prohibited Chloro-genic
carriers
Quality or process demands Yes
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
pH
1.0 ppm
30.0 ppm
1.0 ppm
0.1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
Cr 2.0 ppm
0.02 ppm
4 ppm
50 ppm
4 ppm
4.0-9.0
Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)

32. Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)
Oeko – 106 Baby clothing
Hazardous
Substances
Remarks/Limits
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited
Formaldehyde n.d
Pentachlorophenol
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol
0.05 ppm
0.5 ppm
Pesticide Total 0.5 ppm
Other compounds Prohibited Chloro-genic
carriers
Quality or process
demands
Yes
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
pH
0.2 ppm
-
0.2 ppm
0.1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
Cr 1.0 ppm
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
25 ppm
1 ppm
4.0-7.5
Oeko – 109, 110- Textile furnishing Fabrics and
Curtains
Hazardous Substances Remarks/Limits
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited
Formaldehyde 300 ppm
Pentachlorophenol
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol
0.5 ppm
0.5 ppm
Pesticide Total 1.0 ppm
Other compounds Prohibited Chloro-genic
carriers
Quality or process demands Yes
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
pH
1.0 ppm
30.0 ppm
1.0 ppm
0.1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
Cr 2.0 ppm
0.02 ppm
4 ppm
50 ppm
4 ppm
4.0-9.0

33. Oeko-Tex Standard 100
(Germany)
Oeko – 111, 112 – Upholstery fabrics, Blankets, cushions (and their filling)
Hazardous Substances Remarks/Limits
Certain azo-dyes Prohibited
Formaldehyde 75/120 ppm
Pentachlorophenol
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol
0.5/0.05 ppm
0.5 ppm
Pesticide Total 1.0/0.5 ppm
Other compounds Prohibited Chloro-genic carriers
Quality or process demands Yes
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
pH
1.0/0.2 ppm
30.0 ppm
1.0/0.2 ppm
0.1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
Cr 2.0/1.0 ppm
0.02 ppm
4/1 ppm
50/25 ppm
4/1 ppm
4.0-9.0

34. Toxproof Eco-label
Scheme
• The German TUV Rheinland Sicherheit und
Umweltschutz GmbH, an independent research
organization has developed the eco-label scheme
and is the official issuing authority
Objective:
• Main objective is to ensure safety, technical progress
and verification of environmental standards in textile
production, mainly cotton.

35. Toxproof Eco-label
Scheme
Salient features:
• This labeling scheme focuses on textiles, predominantly cotton,
and considers the life cycle, banning of child labour, reduction of
negative impacts on human health, ecologically sound cultivation
of raw materials, etc.
• The label- Toxproof testifies the use of harmful substances, which
might have negative effects on human health, has been avoided
in textiles.
• With regard to the processing phase, various polluting phase are
excluded, as is the use of carcinogens, flame retardants, biocides
and chlorine based bleaching.
• Even aspects like transportation and packaging are considered,
with attention paid to reusability and avoidance of use of planes.

36. Toxproof Eco-label
Scheme
Chemicals For Garments For Household and furnishing
textiles
Certain azo-dyes - Prohibited
Formaldehyde 300 ppm 300 ppm
Pentachlorophenol 0.5 ppm 0.5 ppm
Pesticide List with restrictions List with restrictions
Other compounds Glyoxal 300 ppm; chloro-organic
carriers prohibited
Glyoxal 300 ppm; chloro-organic
carriers prohibited
Quality or process
Demands
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
Glyoxal 75 ppm; chloro-organic
carriers prohibited
0.2 ppm
0.2 ppm
0.8 ppm
0.1 mg/kg
Total 1 ppm Cr VI prohibited
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
No
0.2 ppm
0.2 ppm
0.8 ppm
0.1 mg/kg
Total 1 ppm Cr VI prohibited
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
Norms for Toxproof – Without skin contact

37. Toxproof Eco-label
Scheme
Norms for Toxproof – Direct skin contact
Chemicals For Garments For Household and
furnishing textiles
Certain azo-dyes - Prohibited
Formaldehyde 75 ppm 75 ppm
Pentachlorophenol 0.5 ppm 0.5 ppm
Pesticide List with restrictions List with restrictions
Other compounds Glyoxal 300 ppm; chloro-
organic carriers prohibited
Glyoxal 300 ppm; chloro-
organic carriers prohibited
Quality or process
Demands
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
No
0.2 ppm
0.2 ppm
0.8 ppm
0.1 ppm
Total 1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
Flame-retardants prohibited.
0.2 ppm
0.2 ppm
0.8 mg/kg
0.1 ppm
Total 1 ppm
Cr VI prohibited
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm

38. Toxproof Eco-label
Scheme
Norms for Toxproof – Baby clothing
Chemicals For Garments For Household and
furnishing textiles
Certain azo-dyes - Not applicable
Formaldehyde 20 ppm
Pentachlorophenol 0.05 ppm
Pesticide List with restrictions
Other compounds Glyoxal 20 ppm; chloro-organic
carriers prohibited
Quality or process
Demands
Arsenic
Antimony
Lead
Cadmium
Chromium
Mercury
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Zinc
Flame-retardants
prohibited
0.2 ppm
0.2 ppm
0.8 ppm
0.1 ppm
Total 1 ppm Cr VI prohibited
0.02 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm
1 ppm
20 ppm

39. Arbeitskreis Naturtextil
• The Arbeitskreis Naturtextil E.V. association was founded in
1991 in Stuttgart and currently consists of fourteen members.
This eco-label is issued by the Arbeitskreis Naturtextil E.V.
association. The eco-label is addresses the natural fiber
products or Organic textiles.
Objectives:
• The Arbeitskreis Naturtextil has developed a criteria catalogue
for a trademark of “natural textiles” which is more stringent
than the criteria of made for membership.
• The product-related trademark “Naturtextil” stands for a
complete production information comprising material and
auxiliaries used in the fiber production, finishing and
confectioning as well as directions for use and disposal.

40. Arbeitskreis Naturtextil
Salient features:
• A shift to raw fibers entirely from organic agriculture is stipulated as the
organization’s goal.
• Only natural fibers of vegetable or animal origin are permitted.
• All substances classified as hazardous according to the German Chemicals
Law, AOX building substances, heavy metals, aldehydes, organic
halogenous substances, phenols, EDTA and DTPA as well as bleach, are not
allowed.
• Furthermore the use of dyes and dyeing auxiliaries is limited to natural
products. However, synthetic dyes that are considered as harmless can be
applied.
• Finishing may be either mechanical, thermal or with natural products, but
require a specific permission and have to be mentioned in the product
declaration.

41. Eco Mark Scheme (India)
• There are three committees involved with the criteria
development for each product and the award of Eco-Mark.
The inter-ministerial steering Committee set-up in the
Ministry of Environment and Forests, the Technical Committee
in the Central Pollution Control Board and the Sectional
Committees of the Bureau of Indian Standards and
Directorate of Marketing.
Objective:
• To develop the criteria “cradle-to-grave-approach”, for
meeting the stringent legislation in European countries as well
as Indian Legislation

42. Eco Mark Scheme (India)
Salient features:
• Products under consideration should cause comparatively less
pollution during production, use and disposal.
• Products should either be recyclable, made from recycled
material or biodegradable.
• Products eligible for the Eco Mark should contribute
significantly to saving non-renewable resources.
• Producers are encouraged to replace prohibited azo dyes with
natural substances.
• Handling harmful aryl-amine based dyes including
manufacture, transport and use is prohibited since 1996.

43. Eco Mark Scheme (India)
Sr.
No.
Parameter Requirement mg/kg (ppm), max Ref to Test
MethodBaby
Clothing
Close to Skin Outer wear
1. Free Formaldehyde 20 75 300 IS 14563
2. Extractable heavy metals by artificial acidic sweat solution
a. Antimony (Sb) 5 10 10
b. Arsenic (As) 0.2 1.0 1.0
c. Lead (Pb) 0.2 1.0 1.0
d. Cadmium (Cd) 0.1 0.1 0.1
e. Mercury (Hg) 0.02 0.02 0.02
f. Chromium total 1.0 2.0 2.0
g. Cobalt (Co) 1.0 4.0 4.0
h. Copper (Cu) 25.0 50.0 50.0
i. Nickel (Ni) 1.0 4.0 4.0
3. Pentachlorophenol 0.05 0.5 0.5
4. 2/3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol 0.05 0.5 0.5
5. Orthophenylphenol 0.5 1.0 1.0
6. Organo-tin Compounds
a. Tributyltin (TBT) 0.5 1.0 1.0
b. Dibutyltin (DBT) 1.0 1.0 1.0
7. Pesticides (sum parameter) 0.5 1.0 1.0
8. pH of aqueous extract 4.0-7.5 4.0-7.5 4.0-7.5 IS 1390
Cold
method
9. Banned aryl amines from azo-dyes 30.0 30.0 30.0 IS 15570
Product specific requirement for environmental labeling of textiles

44. Eco Mark Scheme (India)
Product specific requirement for environmental labeling of textiles
Sr. No. Parameter Cotton, Wool,
Silk, Jute &
Jute products
Manmade silk
fiber &
products
Home blends &
clothing
Hessians,
sackings
1. Free & Releasable Formaldehyde
Baby clothing 20 20 NA NA
Close to skin 75 75 75 NA
Outer fabrics 300 300 300 NA
2. Extractable Artificial Sweat/saliva Heavy metals
Mercury 0.02 0.1 0.1 NA
Chromium III 0.1 0.1 0.1 NA
Chromium VI/Total Cr Nil/1.0 Nil Nil NA
Below detectable
limit
NA
Sum parameters (as lead) 10.0 10.0 10.0 NA
3. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) 0.5 0.5 NA NA
4. Volatile hydrocarbons (non-
Halogens)
150.0 150.0 NA 3%
5. Volatile halogenated Organics 200.0 NA NA NA
6. Fatty esters based oil NA NA 2% NA
7. Pesticides 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Banned pesticides Nil Nil Nil Nil
8. pH of aqueous extract 4.0-7.5 4.0-7.5 6.0-7.0 6.0-7.0
9. Coupled amines released from Azo-dyes 50.0
(detectable limit)
50.0 50.0 50.0

45. Some privately
owned Brands:

46. Otto Versand
Otto Versand, a mail order firm in Germany is an issuing agency.
Salient features:
• Establishment of a set of product-related criteria for a collection of
environmentally friendly textiles named “future collection”, and one called
‘hautfreundlich schadstoffgepruft
• Limiting values are set for the content of soluble heavy metals, pH,
formaldehyde, and PCB and pesticide residues.
• Chlorine bleaching, optical brighteners, chlororganic carriers, biocides and
flame retardant finishing are not allowed.
• Cotton is, as a minimum requirement, hand-picked and partly grown
organically.
• Both collections must meet the criteria for ‘skin friendliness’ which stress
health risks from contact with hazardous substances.

47. Hess Natur
• Hess Natur, a German mail order company offering clothing,
baby clothing, shoes, bed-linen and blankets is an issuing
agency.
Salient features:
• For the apparel collections, only upper cloths made from
natural fibers are used.
• Increasingly organic cotton is used, currently accounting for
70% of the cotton collection, whereas the remainder comes
from integrated agriculture.
• Underwear and nightwear are exclusively manufactured from
organic cotton; however wool and linen are not from organic
agriculture.

48. Hess Natur
Salient features:
• The content of the pesticide residues is subjected to internal
controls.
• None of the fibers is bleached with chlorine based substances
and the use of optical brighteners is not allowed.
• Fabrics are dyed with synthetic and vegetable dyestuffs.
• All auxiliaries used are to be biodegradable.
• Chemical finishing and moth finishing are not permitted.
• During confectioning, sewing yarn containing synthetic core
are used because of longer durability.
• All products are packaged in paper-board boxes from recycled
paper and cotton strings.

49. Hautfreundlich (‘kind to skin’)
• QUELLE Schickedanz AG & Co., a mail order company
is an issuing agency.
Salient features:
• Criteria are set for pH value, pesticide, heavy metal
and PCP residues in the products.
• Metal accessories must be free from nickel, and fulfill
standards for colour genuineness.
• Finishes should be chlorine free (unbleached), and
avoid formaldehyde, glyoxal and synthetic resin.

50. Eco Seal
• Neckermann Versand AG, a mail order company is an issuing
agency.
Salient features:
• The label marked products of the Neckermann Versand
Company are less polluting than others of the same function.
• Water and energy saving processing methods are emphasized
in textile production, as also less polluting dyes.
• While the entire life cycle is considered in principle, products
are typically labeled on the basis of single aspects of their
environmental performance.
• Testing is conducted partly by the company itself, and partly
relies on information from suppliers.

51. Hungary
• Issuing agency is the Hungary Eco-Labeling
Organization (HELO).
Objective:
• To direct producers and distributors to
produce and distribute environmentally sound
products (goods and services) and to inform
consumers about the environmental features
of the goods and services

52. Hungary
Product categories:
• Woolen-flax bed clothes
• Bed mattresses made of natural material
Salient features:
• During their whole lifecycle, impose less environmental load
than similar products.
• Reduce the environmental load in other ways thus
contributing significantly to environmental conservation
without reducing significantly their fitness for use and
maintaining safety.
• Excluded are: mineral raw materials, food products and
beverages, pharmaceuticals and medical products.

53. Scope for Eco-labels
• Depends on strong consumer demand for
“green products”
• Understanding of environmental issues by
consumers
• Competence for “green dollar”

54. Conclusion
• Textile industry – a potential outlet for
hazardous chemicals into water bodies
• Monitoring of concentrations during
processing itself by eco labeling
• Eco labeling, in spite of high production costs,
should be made mandatory