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Focus, Depth of
   Field and
  Perspective

  Digital Photography
Sharp focus attracts the eye.
Sharp focus attracts the eye.
Think of the “plane of critical focus”
 as a pane of glass stretched from one
 side of the scene to the other where
        everything is in focus.
1/3                    2/3




Notice that the depth of field extends
 about one-third in front of the plane
    of critical focus and two-thirds
               behind it.
The photographer directs
your eye to the point of
interest by using focus.
Micha Bar-Am
“Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial,” Jerusalem, 1981
The “plane of critical focus”
        is also called
      the “image plane.”
What exactly is sharpness,
and how much can it be controlled?
In theory, a lens can only
  focus on a flat plane at
one single distance at a time
    (the plane of focus)
  and objects at all other
distances will be less sharp.
But, in most
cases, part of
the scene will
 be acceptably
 sharp both in
  front of and
    behind the
  most sharply
focused plane.
Light from a single point on the subject reaches the lens in
    the shape of a cone. Behind the lens, that same light
 converges again in the shape of a cone, to a corresponding
                         image point.
If your film or sensor is located at the tip of that cone of
     light, that image point will be exactly in focus.
If the recording surface is not at the tip of the cone
and instead slices through the cone in front of or behind
the focus point, it will record a small circle instead of
                         a point.
A circle can be just small enough that you can’t see that
 it’s a circle instead of a point. This size is called a
                  “circle of confusion.”
Any points in the recorded image that make a circle this
      size or smaller will appear to be in focus.
  Any points within this range are inside the depth of
                         field.
Reducing the size of the lens aperture makes the base
of each cone of light smaller and its angle narrower.
The same size circle of confusion can be recorded
          farther from the focus point.
So even though a smaller aperture doesn’t change the
actual location of the plane of focus, it widens the
  range of points that appear to be in focus, thus
           increasing the depth of field.
There are actually 3 different
 ways to control the depth of
    field in a photograph:


  change the aperture

  change the focal length

  change the distance to subject
We have already learned how to
adjust the aperture to change the
         depth of field.
In actuality, the aperture
 works along with the focal
length of the lens to define
       depth of field.
The longer the focal length, the less light reaches the
sensor or film, therefore a long lens will form a dimmer
image than a short lens unless more light is admitted by
                      the aperture.
Apertures of the
  same number are not
all the exact same size!
The sizes of
apertures are
determined so
that at a given
f-stop number
the same amount
of light reaches
the film, no
matter what the
focal length of
the lens.
If the focal
length of the lens
is 100mm, you need
a lens opening of
25mm to produce an
f/4 aperture.
If the focal
length of the lens
is 200mm, you need
a lens opening of
50mm to produce an
f/4 aperture.
What does all this mean to you?
When adjusting your camera for
depth of field, JUST REMEMBER:


  The smaller the aperture, the greater
  the depth of field

  The shorter the focal length of the
  lens, the greater the depth of field

  The greater the distance from the
  subject the greater the depth of
  field
The smaller the aperture, the greater
the depth of field
The shorter the focal length of the lens,
the greater the depth of field
The greater the distance from the
subject the greater the depth of
field
Two more techniques let you
  control depth of field:


 Zone focusing

 Focusing on the hyperfocal distance
For both of these techniques,
   you need a lens with a
    depth-of-field scale.
    depth-of-field scale.
Zone
Focusing
Focusing
Zone focusing is
useful when you want
to shoot rapidly
without refocusing,
and can predict
approximately where,
if not exactly when,
action will take
place.
To zone focus, use a lens’s depth-of-field scale to find
the f-stop settings that will give you adequate depth of
                         field.
Suppose the nearest focus point you want sharp is 7 feet away and
 the farthest is 13 feet away. Turn the focusing ring until those
distances on the distance scale fall opposite a matched pair of f-
 stops on the depth-of-field scale. If you set your lens aperture
   to that f-stop, objects between the two distances will be in
                              focus.
Suppose the nearest focus point you want sharp is 7 feet away and
 the farthest is 13 feet away. Turn the focusing ring until those
distances on the distance scale fall opposite a matched pair of f-
 stops on the depth-of-field scale. If you set your lens aperture
   to that f-stop, objects between the two distances will be in
                              focus.
This is a typical
digital lens with
a DOF scale.

Here the aperture
is set to f/11.

The depth-of-field
scale shows that
objects from 1 to
2 meters will be
in focus at this
aperture.
Hyperfocal Distance
Instead of focusing on infinity, (as shown
above), set the distance scale so that the
infinity mark lines up opposite your chosen
                 f-stop on
         the depth-of-field scale.
As shown above, the infinity
 symbol falls just within depth-
of-field scale for the chosen f-
            stop: f/8.
Perspective:
How a photograph shows depth
Perspective
is the way
the brain
judges
depth.
The brain judges depth in a photograph mostly by
comparing objects in the foreground with those in
 the background. The greater the size differences
 perceived, the greater the impression of depth.
Compare the   scale of   the bird to
   the cage   in these   3 views.
When changing the focal
   lengths only, the scale
between the bird and the cage
     remains consistent.
Expanded perspective            seems to result
from a very wide lens, but using any lens close
  to a subject stretches distances because it
magnifies objects near the lens in relation to
       those that are far from the lens.
Compressed perspective              is usually associated
with a long focal length lens. It is because the lens is
 relatively far from both foreground and background that
size differences between near and far parts of the scene
                      are minimized.
Making “Close-Ups”
Close-up Photography
The best   way to take close-up
photographs   is with a macro lens.
There are several
types of macro lenses
and they are often
distinguished by their
focal lengths.
A 50-60 mm lens is typically used
for small objects and product shots.
A 90 - 105 mm range macro lens
   is versatile and can be used
for anything from insects to small
             objects.
A 120 - 200 mm range lens gives
 you more working distance and
  is commonly used for insects
    and other small animals.
If a macro lens is
not in your
budget, a
reasonably priced
alternative is a
close-up lens.
A close-up lens
attaches to the front
of your camera lens.
They come in
different strengths
(measured in
diopters). The higher
the diopter number,
the closer you can
focus.
Close-up lenses are relatively
  inexpensive and small, but image
quality will not be as good as with
       other close-up methods.
Still another option for close-up
photography is a bellows which fits
  between the lens and the camera to
increase the distance from the lens to
              the sensor.
Extension tubes        work essentially the same
 way as a   bellows. The object of both is to
 increase   the distance from the lens to the
                     sensor.
Extension tube attached
between the camera body
       and lens.
How big is a “close-up?”
A photograph is considered a
close-up    if it is 1/10 life size (1:10)
to life size (1:1).
Macro-photography        generally refers
to an image that is anywhere from
life size (1:1) to as big as 10 times
life size (10:1).
Micro-photography is achieved by
photographing through a microscope
to get an image larger than 10
times life size.
Other terms commonly used are:
Photomacrography and Photomicography.
                   .
Depth of field
is shallow in
close-ups so
focusing becomes
critical.
A 50 mm lens at a
 distance of about
12 inches from the
 subject has a DOF
 of 1/16 inch when
   the aperture is
       set to f/4.
At f/11 the DOF increases -
   but only to 1/2 inch!
Here you can see how increasing the
distance between the lens and the sensor
     increases the size of the image.
Regardless of the method used to take a close-up,
you must move the lens farther from the sensor to
focus closer to your subject.
And the farther
the lens is
extended, the
dimmer the light
that reaches the
light-sensitive
surface.
So you must increase the
exposure time so the photo
 will not be underexposed.
Use a tripod to
 take close-ups
     to prevent
   motion blur.
Use a cable release if you have one.
You can also use a flash to
   “freeze” the motion.
These photos
were made using
a macro lens
and a flash.
Filters
A polarizing
filter removes
   reflections
 from surfaces
 such as glass
This works best at a
30 - 40 degree angle.
A polarizing filter also
makes distant objects clearer
     and the sky darker.
The effect works best when you are shooting at a
          90 degree angle from the sun.
Other popular
types of filters
 are soft focus
and star (cross
screen) filters.

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Focus

  • 1. Focus, Depth of Field and Perspective Digital Photography
  • 4. Think of the “plane of critical focus” as a pane of glass stretched from one side of the scene to the other where everything is in focus.
  • 5. 1/3 2/3 Notice that the depth of field extends about one-third in front of the plane of critical focus and two-thirds behind it.
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8. The photographer directs your eye to the point of interest by using focus.
  • 9.
  • 10. Micha Bar-Am “Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial,” Jerusalem, 1981
  • 11.
  • 12. The “plane of critical focus” is also called the “image plane.”
  • 13. What exactly is sharpness, and how much can it be controlled?
  • 14. In theory, a lens can only focus on a flat plane at one single distance at a time (the plane of focus) and objects at all other distances will be less sharp.
  • 15.
  • 16. But, in most cases, part of the scene will be acceptably sharp both in front of and behind the most sharply focused plane.
  • 17. Light from a single point on the subject reaches the lens in the shape of a cone. Behind the lens, that same light converges again in the shape of a cone, to a corresponding image point.
  • 18. If your film or sensor is located at the tip of that cone of light, that image point will be exactly in focus.
  • 19. If the recording surface is not at the tip of the cone and instead slices through the cone in front of or behind the focus point, it will record a small circle instead of a point.
  • 20. A circle can be just small enough that you can’t see that it’s a circle instead of a point. This size is called a “circle of confusion.”
  • 21. Any points in the recorded image that make a circle this size or smaller will appear to be in focus. Any points within this range are inside the depth of field.
  • 22. Reducing the size of the lens aperture makes the base of each cone of light smaller and its angle narrower.
  • 23. The same size circle of confusion can be recorded farther from the focus point.
  • 24. So even though a smaller aperture doesn’t change the actual location of the plane of focus, it widens the range of points that appear to be in focus, thus increasing the depth of field.
  • 25.
  • 26.
  • 27. There are actually 3 different ways to control the depth of field in a photograph: change the aperture change the focal length change the distance to subject
  • 28. We have already learned how to adjust the aperture to change the depth of field.
  • 29. In actuality, the aperture works along with the focal length of the lens to define depth of field.
  • 30. The longer the focal length, the less light reaches the sensor or film, therefore a long lens will form a dimmer image than a short lens unless more light is admitted by the aperture.
  • 31. Apertures of the same number are not all the exact same size!
  • 32. The sizes of apertures are determined so that at a given f-stop number the same amount of light reaches the film, no matter what the focal length of the lens.
  • 33. If the focal length of the lens is 100mm, you need a lens opening of 25mm to produce an f/4 aperture.
  • 34. If the focal length of the lens is 200mm, you need a lens opening of 50mm to produce an f/4 aperture.
  • 35.
  • 36. What does all this mean to you?
  • 37. When adjusting your camera for depth of field, JUST REMEMBER: The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field The shorter the focal length of the lens, the greater the depth of field The greater the distance from the subject the greater the depth of field
  • 38. The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field
  • 39. The shorter the focal length of the lens, the greater the depth of field
  • 40. The greater the distance from the subject the greater the depth of field
  • 41. Two more techniques let you control depth of field: Zone focusing Focusing on the hyperfocal distance
  • 42. For both of these techniques, you need a lens with a depth-of-field scale. depth-of-field scale.
  • 43.
  • 45. Zone focusing is useful when you want to shoot rapidly without refocusing, and can predict approximately where, if not exactly when, action will take place.
  • 46. To zone focus, use a lens’s depth-of-field scale to find the f-stop settings that will give you adequate depth of field.
  • 47. Suppose the nearest focus point you want sharp is 7 feet away and the farthest is 13 feet away. Turn the focusing ring until those distances on the distance scale fall opposite a matched pair of f- stops on the depth-of-field scale. If you set your lens aperture to that f-stop, objects between the two distances will be in focus.
  • 48. Suppose the nearest focus point you want sharp is 7 feet away and the farthest is 13 feet away. Turn the focusing ring until those distances on the distance scale fall opposite a matched pair of f- stops on the depth-of-field scale. If you set your lens aperture to that f-stop, objects between the two distances will be in focus.
  • 49. This is a typical digital lens with a DOF scale. Here the aperture is set to f/11. The depth-of-field scale shows that objects from 1 to 2 meters will be in focus at this aperture.
  • 51. Instead of focusing on infinity, (as shown above), set the distance scale so that the infinity mark lines up opposite your chosen f-stop on the depth-of-field scale.
  • 52. As shown above, the infinity symbol falls just within depth- of-field scale for the chosen f- stop: f/8.
  • 53.
  • 54.
  • 55.
  • 57. Perspective is the way the brain judges depth.
  • 58. The brain judges depth in a photograph mostly by comparing objects in the foreground with those in the background. The greater the size differences perceived, the greater the impression of depth.
  • 59.
  • 60. Compare the scale of the bird to the cage in these 3 views.
  • 61.
  • 62. When changing the focal lengths only, the scale between the bird and the cage remains consistent.
  • 63.
  • 64.
  • 65.
  • 66.
  • 67.
  • 68.
  • 69. Expanded perspective seems to result from a very wide lens, but using any lens close to a subject stretches distances because it magnifies objects near the lens in relation to those that are far from the lens.
  • 70. Compressed perspective is usually associated with a long focal length lens. It is because the lens is relatively far from both foreground and background that size differences between near and far parts of the scene are minimized.
  • 73. The best way to take close-up photographs is with a macro lens.
  • 74. There are several types of macro lenses and they are often distinguished by their focal lengths.
  • 75. A 50-60 mm lens is typically used for small objects and product shots.
  • 76. A 90 - 105 mm range macro lens is versatile and can be used for anything from insects to small objects.
  • 77. A 120 - 200 mm range lens gives you more working distance and is commonly used for insects and other small animals.
  • 78. If a macro lens is not in your budget, a reasonably priced alternative is a close-up lens.
  • 79. A close-up lens attaches to the front of your camera lens. They come in different strengths (measured in diopters). The higher the diopter number, the closer you can focus.
  • 80. Close-up lenses are relatively inexpensive and small, but image quality will not be as good as with other close-up methods.
  • 81. Still another option for close-up photography is a bellows which fits between the lens and the camera to increase the distance from the lens to the sensor.
  • 82. Extension tubes work essentially the same way as a bellows. The object of both is to increase the distance from the lens to the sensor.
  • 83. Extension tube attached between the camera body and lens.
  • 84. How big is a “close-up?”
  • 85. A photograph is considered a close-up if it is 1/10 life size (1:10) to life size (1:1).
  • 86. Macro-photography generally refers to an image that is anywhere from life size (1:1) to as big as 10 times life size (10:1).
  • 87. Micro-photography is achieved by photographing through a microscope to get an image larger than 10 times life size.
  • 88. Other terms commonly used are: Photomacrography and Photomicography. .
  • 89. Depth of field is shallow in close-ups so focusing becomes critical.
  • 90. A 50 mm lens at a distance of about 12 inches from the subject has a DOF of 1/16 inch when the aperture is set to f/4.
  • 91. At f/11 the DOF increases - but only to 1/2 inch!
  • 92. Here you can see how increasing the distance between the lens and the sensor increases the size of the image.
  • 93. Regardless of the method used to take a close-up, you must move the lens farther from the sensor to focus closer to your subject.
  • 94. And the farther the lens is extended, the dimmer the light that reaches the light-sensitive surface.
  • 95. So you must increase the exposure time so the photo will not be underexposed.
  • 96. Use a tripod to take close-ups to prevent motion blur.
  • 97. Use a cable release if you have one.
  • 98. You can also use a flash to “freeze” the motion.
  • 99. These photos were made using a macro lens and a flash.
  • 101. A polarizing filter removes reflections from surfaces such as glass
  • 102. This works best at a 30 - 40 degree angle.
  • 103. A polarizing filter also makes distant objects clearer and the sky darker.
  • 104. The effect works best when you are shooting at a 90 degree angle from the sun.
  • 105.
  • 106. Other popular types of filters are soft focus and star (cross screen) filters.