1. COTTON TO READYMADE GARMENTS Dr.R.B.CHAVAN FORMER PROFESSOR, I I T DELHI CONSULTANT MAHATMA GANDHI INSTITUTE OF RURAL INDUSTRIALIZATION WARDHA

2. COTTON CULTIVATION STATISICS

3. STATUS OF COTTON GROWING FARMERS AND COTTON USING INDUSTRIALISTS

4. ORGANIC AND NON-ORGANIC CULTIVATION Non ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION HIGHEST CONSUMPTION OF PESTICIDES (33%) MOST EXPENSIVE CROP HARMFUL TO SOIL HARMFUL TO HUMAN LIFE AND OTHER LIVING ORGANISMS ENVIRONMENT POLLUTION

5. ORGANIC LESS EXPENSIVE NON-HAZARDOUS TO SOIL, HUMAN LIFE, OTHER LIVING ORGANISMS ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY NO EFFECT ON PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON FIBRE

6. LONG RELATION OF HUMAN BEING AND CLOTH RIGHT FROM BIRTH TO DEATH MODERN CIVILIZATION CAN NOT THINK OF LIVING WITHOUT CLOTHS EXCEPT JAIN MUNIs WHEN A PERSON DIES EVERY THING IS RMOVED FROM HIS/HER BODY EXCEPT CLOTHES PROBABLY FIRST FIBRE DISCOVED WAS COTTON RECORDS INDICATE DISCOVERY OF COTTON FIBRE 8OOO YEARS B C RECORDS AND MYTHOLOGY ALSO INDICATE THAT COTTON PLANT WAS DISCOVERED BY BRIHANMAD RISHI AT KALAMB A VILLAGE NEAR YEOTMAL

7. DIFFERENT FIBRES FOR CLOTH MAKING NATURAL COTTON WOOL SILK SYNTHETIC NYLON POLYESTER ACRYLIC BLENDS OF NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC FIBRES

8. COTTON KING FIBRE COTTON CONSIDERED TO BE KING FIBRE SILK QUEEN FIBRE COTTON ROBUST TO DAY TO DAY WEARING COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL COUNTRY LIKE INDIA CHEAP ABUNDANT AVAILABILITY COMPARED TO WOOL AND SILK BIODEGRADABLE ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY

9. UNFORTUNATE VIDARBHA FARMERS LARGE SCALE CULTIVATION OF COTTON IN VIDARBHA COTTON GROWING FARMERS ARE POOREST AND IN DEBT PRONE TO SUICIDES BECAUSE OF DEBT DUE TO PURCHASE OF EXPENSIVE AND LARGE SCALE USE PETICIDES MANY TIMES NO EXPENSES INCURRED ARE MORE THAN EARNING IS IT POSSIBLE TO CHANGE THE EQUATION BETWEEN EXPENSES AND EARNING?

10. WAY OUT CONVERT THE RAW COTTON INTO FINISHED PRODUCT LIKE YARN GREY FABRIC FINSIHED FABRIC READYMADE GARMENTS PHASEWISE CONVERSION SUGGESTED IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO UNDERSTAND HOW PROFIT MARGIN INCREASES AS ONE MOVES FROM RAW COTTON ►YARN ►GREY FABRIC ►FINISHED FABRIC ►GARMENTS

11. STEPS INVOLVED PRE-SPINNING SPINNING PRE-WEAVING WEAVING CHEMICAL PROCESSING GARMENT MAKING

12. STEPS INVOLVED PRE-SPINNING 1. RAW COTTON 2. GINNING 3. BALE FORMATION 4. FIBRE OPENING 5. LAP MAKING 6. CARDING 7. SLIVER MAKING 8. ROVING MAKING SPINNING 9. YARN PRE-WEAVING 10. SIZING 11.LOOM PREPARATION 12. WEAVING GREY FABRIC CHEMICAL PROCESSING 13. DESIZING 14. SCOURING 15. BLEACHING 16. DYEING 17. PRINTING 18. FINISHING 19. GARMENT MAKING

13. CAPITAL INVESTMENT ESTABLISHING A TEXTILE MILL MOST CAPITAL AND LABOUR INTENSIVE CAPITAL INVESTMENT FEW CRORES RUPEES MOST EXPENSIVE PROPOSAL FOR MARGINAL FARMERS OR GROUP OF FARMERS WAY OUT CLUSTER ACTIVITY IN A GROUP OF MINIMUM OF 10 FARMERS EQUIPMENTS MINI-SLIVER PLANT AMBER CHARKHA HANDLOOM INVESTMENT 3-5 LAKH RUPEES

14. PHOTO Ginning machine Lap making machine Sliver making machine Carding machine

15. VALUE ADDITION RAW MATERIAL COTTON WITH SEED COST Rs.3200 PER QUINTAL i.e. 100 Kg COST PER Kg Rs.32 3 Kg COTTON WITH SEED = 1 Kg COTTON WITHOUT SEED COST OF 1 KG GINNED COTTON = 32x3 = Rs.96 GINNING COST OF GINNING Rs. 1.5 PER Kg GINNING COST 1.5x3 = Rs. 4.5 PER Kg COST OF COVERSION OF 1Kg OF GINNED COTTON TO 1 Kg ROVING = Rs.30 ASSUMPTION ALL OPERATIONS CARRIED OUT INHOUSE NO TRANSPORTATION COST INVOLVED

16. COST OF CONVERSION OF 1 Kg ROVING INTO 1 Kg YARN = Rs.60 (30 HANKS OF 30s COUNT IN 1 Kg. Rs. 2 PER HANK SPINNING WAGES) TOTAL COST OF CONVERSION OF 1 KG YARN COST OF GINNED COTTON + GINNING COST + ROVING CONVERSION COST + YARN CONVERSION COST Rs. 96 + 4.5 + 30 + 60 = 190.5 i.e 190 YARN SELLING COST Rs. 240 PER Kg. PROFIT ON 1 Kg YARN Rs. 240 – 190 = 50 THIS MEANS PROFIT ON 3 Kg UNGINNED COTTON = Rs.50 PROFIT ON 1 Kg UNGINNED COTTON = 50 /3 = 16 SALE PRICE OF UNGINNED COTTON 32 + 16 = 48 COST OF 1 QUINTAL COTTON INCREASE TO 48x100 = 4800

17. CONVERSION OF YARN TO GREY FABRIC FROM 1 KG YARN IT IS POSSIBLE TO WEAVE 8 METERS OF GREY FABRIC WEAVING CHARGES Rs. 10 PER METER CHARGES FOR WEAVING 8 METER FABRIC 10x8 = Rs.80 SELLING COST OF GREY FABRIC Rs. 50 PER METER TOTAL COST OF FABRIC 8x50 = Rs 400 PROFIT ON 8 METER FABRIC SELLING COST OF GREY FABRIC – (YARN CONVERSION COST + FABRIC CONVERSION COST) 400 – (190+80) = 130 PROFIT ON 3 Kg UNGINNED COTTON = Rs.130 PROFIT ON 1 Kg UNGINNED COTTON = 130/3 = 43 SALE PRICE OF 1Kg COTTON AFTER CONVERSION TO GREY FABRIC 32 + 43 = 75 SALE PRICE OF 1 QUINTAL COTTON 75x100 = 7500

18. CONVERSION OF GREY FABRIC TO FINISHED WHITE FABRIC COST OF DESIZING, SCOURING AND BLEACHING Rs. 5 PER METER TOTAL PROCESSING COST 8x5 = 40 SELLING PRICE OF WHITE FINISHED FABRIC Rs. 70 PER METER PRICE OF 8 METERS WHITE FABRIC 70x8 = Rs 560 PROFIT ON WHITE FABRIC 560 – 40 = 520 COST OF 3 Kg UNGINNED COTTON = Rs.520 COST OF 1 Kg UNGINNED COTTON 520/3 = Rs. 173 SELL PRICE OF 1 Kg UNGINNED COTTON 32 + 173 = 205 SELL PRICE OF 1 QUINTAL COTTON = Rs.20,500

19. CONVERSION OF WHITE FABRIC TO GARMENTS FROM 8 METERS FABRIC ONE CAN STITCH 4 HALF SHIRTS STITCHING CHARGES Rs. 70 PER GARMENT STITCHING CHARGES OF 4 GARMENTS = 4x60 = Rs.240 SELLING PRICE OF EACH GARMENT Rs. 225 TOTAL SELLING PRICE 225x4 = 900 PROFIT ON 4 GARMENTS 900 – 240 = Rs.660 PRICE OF 3 Kg. UNGINNED COTTON INCREASED TO RS. 660 PRICE OF 1 Kg UNGINNED COTTON 660/3 = 220 SELL PRICE OF 1 Kg. COTTON BECOMES 32 + 220 = 252 SELL PRICE OF 1 QUINTAL COTTON 252x100 = 25200

20. PRICE APPRECIATION SUMMARY SELLING PRICE PER QUINTAL (Rs.) RAW COTTON 3200 YARN 4800 GREY FABRIC 7500 WHITE FABRIC 20,500 GARMENT 25,200

21. PROFIT MARGIN THE PROFIT MARGIN SHOWN AS GUIDELINE THERE IS LIKELY TO BE VARIATION DEPENDING ON VARIOUS FACTORS ONE THING IS CERTAIN CONSIDERABLE VALUE ADDITION AS ONE MOVES FROM RAW COTTON YARN GREY FABRIC FINISHED FABRIC GARMENTS ORGANIC COTTON WILL HAVE BETTER PROFIT MARGIN COMPARED TO NON-ORGANIC COTTON

22. NO DOUBT ALL BIG BUSINESSMEN IN INDIA LIKE TATA, BIRLA, AMBANI ETC BUILD UP THEIR EMPIRE STARTING FROM TEXTILE BUSINESS THE FARMERS CAN ALSO DREAM OF BECOMING TATA, BIRLA, AMBANI YOU HAVE TO HAVE HIGH DREAMS AND GET TOGETHER, PLAN AND WORK HARD TO CONVERT THE DREAM INTO REALITY

23. MGIRI’S ROLE KHADI GROUP AT MGIRI IS VERY ACTIVE IN PROVIDING TECHNICAL SUPPORT TO FARMERS PLANNED TO DESIGN AND FABRICATE LOW COST PRE-SPINNING MACHINES FOR SMALL SCALE PRODUCTION 20 Kg YARN PER DAY COST OF SUCH DOWSIZED MACHINES WILL BE IN THE RANGE OF Rs. 2-3 LAKH AGAINST FEW CRORES FOR LARGE SCALE MACHINES THIS PRODUCTION CAPACITY USES THE MAH’ATMA GANDHI’S PRINCIPLE OF PRODUCTION BY MASSES FARMERS IN A GROUP OF 10 CAN DO YARN AND FABRIC PRODUCTION IN THE FORM OF CLUSTER IT IS STRONGLY BELIEVED THAT SUCH A EXPERIMENT BASED ON GANDHIAN PHILOSOPHY WILL GO A LONG WAY FOR THE BENEFIT OF FARMERS AND WILL PROVIDE A TECHNOLOGY SOLUTION TO SUICIDE PRONE FARMERS.

24. REMEMBERING GANDHI WHEN ONE TALKS OF SMALL SCALE PRODUCTION IT IS OBVIOUS TO REMEMBER GANDHI MAHATMA GANDHI STARTED HIS FREEDOM STRUGGLE PROPAGATING THE PRODUCTION OF KHADI THEREFORE KHADI SYMBOLISES THE FABRIC OF FREEDOM STRUGGLE GANDHI FIRM BELIEVED AND WAS CONVINCED THAT SMALL SCALE MANUFCTURING BASED ON THE PRINCIPLE OF PRODUCTION BY MASSES IS THE ONLY WAY TO FIGHT WITH THE EVIL OF UNEMPLOYMENT AND THE MISERABLE PLIGHT OF FARMERS AND VILLAGES IN GENERAL I

25. KHADI A FABRIC FOR EMPLOYMENT GENERATION KHADI MANUFACTURING INVOLVES LONG CHAIN OF PROCESSES MOST IMPORTANT ACTIVITY FOR EMPLOYMENT GENERATION GANDHI DREAMT THAT EVERY HOUSE SHOULD BECOME A TEXTILE MILL THE DOWN SIZED TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPED AT MGIRI CAN HELP TO FULFILL THE DREAM OF GANDHI GANDHI ALSO BELIEVED THAT KHADI IS PHILOSOPHY AND NOT A COMMERCIAL FABRIC HE USE TO SAY EVERY REVOLUTION OF CHARKHA SPINS LOVE AND PEACE TIME IS OPPRTUNE TO REVOLVE CHARKHA TO BRING CHEERS ON THE FACE OF FARMERS AND LOVE AND PEACE IN THIR FAMILIES.

26. NEED OF COLLECTIVE EFFORTS TO FULFILL MAHATMA GANDHI’S DREAM THERE IS NEED FOR COLLECTIVE EFFORTS, HARD WORK WITH PATIENCE. FARMERS ARE BORN WITH THE QUALITY OF HARD WORK AND PATIENCE WHAT IS NEEDED IS THE NEED OF COLLECTIVE EFFORTS IT IS HOPED THAT FARMERS WILL MAKE USE OF GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY OF COMING TOGETHER PALN TO WORK UPLIFTING THEMSELVES MGIRI WILL PROVIDE ALL POSSIBLE TECHNICAL SUPPORT IN THIS ENDEAVOR