Kohlapuri chappal

2/26/2015 1Neha Kestwal; M.Des; Semester - 2

Panorama
2/26/2015 Neha Kestwal; M.Des; Semester - 2 2
• Origin dated back to early 13th century.
•Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj was the main promoter .
• Earlier Dhor families Tanning
•Chambars families Chappals making.
•Men do cutting, women do stitching and children do
weaving the ‘veni’. The entire family produces nearly 35 to 45 chappals per week. Total of 20,000 craft persons are
doing this. 5633 units engaging in the manufacture of Kolhapuri chappals
• Shivaji university of Kolhapur has applied for GI.
Kapashi,
Paytaan
Kachkadi
Bakkalnali
Pukari

Reasons of “Far reaching popularity”
Eco - friendly
Not harmful for body
Cheaper than other similar product
Traditional
Comfortable

Chappal’s part
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
A – Heel
B – Upper sole
C – Lower sole
D – Anghotta
E – Dhetta ki veni
F – Patta
G – Pan, Mani, Zari
H – Anguli ki veni
H

Types of Chappals
Men
Women
•A)Senapati Kapshi
•B) Light Kapshi
•C) Pudha Kapshi
• D)Pudha charmasgi
• E)Pudha punching
• F)Punching pudha kapshi
• G)Zari pudha kapshi
• H)Pudha Athni
• I)Special Kolhapuri
• J)Kolhapuri
• A)Kolhapuri
• B)Four veni
• C)Six veni
• D)Eight veni
• E)Maharani chappals
C
D
F
H
C
B

Raw material and tools
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-
chappal/tools/08.html#up
Animal hides Hirda nuts
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/180858563
/Babul_Natural_Dye.jpg
Babool Bark
1 Screw driver
2 Rappi
3 Hammer
4 Palbana
5 Scythe
Scrapper

http://www.dsource.in/gallery/gall
ery-0175/fullview.html
Sukha
Chikal matti – Normal clay solution used to
join 2 layers while stitching it to the sole.
Slab (Laadi)
Ari

Process of making Kolhapuri chappals
Making Leather Making chappal

Technique of making leather
1
Maceration
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhap
ur-chappal/process/leather/01.html#up
Hide is kept in
lime water
mixture for 15
days in cement
tanks.
Pishvi Paddhat( Bag tanning)
2
TapasheTannery, JawaharNagar, Kolhapur

3
Scudding
Removal of flesh patch, hair and fat.
Deliming
4
Scrapper is used to
remove extra lime from
hide
Wooden barrels
5
Solution is changed 6 to 7
times a day.
Once the skins are ready, they are sold to manufacturers by
the weight (One sheet weighting 6-7kgs is usually sold at Rs.
1200-1500)

Process of making chappal
1 Marking
2
Cutting and cleaning

3 Sole and Heel formation
4 Stitching

5 Making of Strap
6
Attachment of strap and braid
6
Making of Braid

Polishing
Finishing
6
Smoothness is given to
edges by motor grinding
machine.
chappal/process/chappel/22.html#up
Soaking
8
7
Before polishing
chappals are
soaked in water, it
helps in better
penetration of
colors.

Wage Rate of Artisian
The wages are paid on piece rate for different process of manufacture. On an average Rs.28/- to Rs. 32/- are
paid as wages per pair. The wages paid to different process of job work are:
1) Seasoning and cutting - Rs. 9 to 13/-
2) Sole stiching - Rs. 51-
3) Making of upper belts with veni - Rs. 7/- design work etc.
4) Fitting and finishing etc. - Rs. 7/- Total Rs. 28 to 32/-
The making charges for upper belts and fitting differ from designs of the chappals.
Source: OFFICE OF THE DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER [ HANDICRAFTS ]

Design problems faced by Kholapuri chappal makers
• The artisans did not have a standard pattern of sizing. They used fingers and hand
for sizing. This results in inconsistent sizing of footwear. Customer cannot look for size 7 or 9 in a Kolhapuri -
he has to try the chappal on.
• The stiff base of the chappal was achieved by stitching together layers of leather. A piece of canvas was
placed in between to increase the stiffness of the sole. But the stiff base turns soggy in water.
• The layers of leather stitched to form sole were temporarily attached using a unique ‘mud’ taken from
nearby river.
• The two ends of ‘angutha’ are stitched one above the other and pushed between the layers of leather
resulting in discomfort.

Craft revival
• Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) – Technological Support.
• Asian Centre for Entrepreneurial Initiatives (ASCENT) – Social Support Ascent – a Bangalore-based non-
government organization with a difference. Ascent is an establishment launched by executives and
business people with an interesting method of working, in the downtrodden of this nation.
• National Leather Development Programme (NLDP) – Sponsors When Athani traditional craft of making
Kolhapuri and Bandh toe sandals slowly started sinking in this fast-paced world, NLDP, along with other
groups of common interest launched on a project aimed at a revamp of the trade; without taking away the
skill and craftsmanship of decades standing. This is the NLDP – Athani Project.
• Leather Technology Mission (LTM) – Sponsors Athani artisans and their craft; may have a respectable
position in the Indian leather sector, by way of quality technology and design.

Contemporary use
Keychains
Sandals
http://images.mid-day.com/2013/may/_MG_1550.jpg

"Aaj pure desh ko Kolhapuri ki chappal ki
zaroorat hai, taaki pura desh tez gati se chale,
(the nation needs Kolhapuri chappals, so that
it can move ahead fast)," the Prime Minister
said as the crowd roared in approval.

References
• http://www.vigyanprasar.gov.in/Radioserials/kolhapuri%20chappal.pdf
• http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/tools/08.html#up
• Craft documentation in resource center: KOLHAPUR by Singh Naveen and others CD-0015
• Handmade in India by M.P Ranjan
• http://planningcommission.nic.in/reports/sereport/ser/stdy_ict/9_leather.pdf
• http://handicrafts.nic.in/khol5.htm

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