1. Hair
Conditioners
By : Dr. Hemat Elgohary
Email : h_2007152002@yahoo.com

2. Benefits
•Reduce the forces
associated with
brushing of the hair
•Provides color
retention benefits for
color-treated hair
•The reduction or
prevention of flyaway specially by cationic
hair conditioners

3. •Increasing the ease of
brushing
•Repair of damaged hair
•Strengthening of hair
•Repair of split ends
• Increase in hair shine
•Feel softer
•Vitamin

4. HAIR FIBER
central cortex
responsible for the
tensile properties of the
hair
“cuticle.”
8 to 10 layers of overlapping cells
hair feel
shine
 comb ability

5. No conditioner
With conditioner

6. Virgin Hair Surfaces
Hair that has not been chemically treated
mix of hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity
As a result of its protein
structure the hair surface has
an isoelectric point near 3.67
as a result of a layer
which insures that the surface
of fatty acids
will contain negatively charged
covalently bound to
hydrophilic sites at the
the outermost
ordinary pH levels of hair care
surface of the cuticle
products

7. cystine
In the hair
cystine S-sulfonate UV
cysteic acid
The tip portions of the hair, being
older than the root portions
- -
- -
therefore be more hydrophilic
affecting the nature of species that
can bind to these sites.

8. greater combing damage
the surface friction of hair tips is higher
This eventually results in
destruction of the covalently the tip ends of hair require
bound lipid layer more
and a feeling of dryness at conditioning than the rest of
the tips the fiber
Without sufficient
conditioning, the cuticle
layer is
eventually lost, resulting
in a split end

9. Chemically Treated Hair Surfaces
perming
bleaching
permanent dyeing
significant damage to the hair fiber
tensile damage
modify the surface of the hair
Introducing negative charges
oxidation of cystine to cysteic acid
transformation of the fiber surface from a
hydrophobic to hydrophilic

10. treated hair generally requires
more conditioning than virgin
hair
conditioner, can prolong the
health of the hair fiber

11. COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS
Forms:
•thick Vaseline pomades
•creams
•gels
• mousses
•lotions
• spray mists.

12. Classes :
regular rinseoff conditioners
intensive treatment conditioners
leave-in products

13. regular rinse-off conditioners
normally applied after shampoo
followed by a rinsing step
This is the most common form of
conditioner sold.

14. Intensive treatment conditioners
Not for daily application.
 They are used for intensive treatment
contain a higher level of active ingredients that
are kept on the hair for a longer period of time
sold as thicker creams to provide the perception
of higher conditioning.

15. Leave-in products
lighter and can potentially provide more significant
benefits than rinse-off products
 everything applied stays on the hair until the next
shampoo.
come in various forms, such as detanglers, leave-in
lotions, and sprays.
They are marketed either for single application or
multiple applications during the day.
What
about
me?? !!!

16. KEY INGREDIENTS OF HAIR CONDITIONERS
 Cationic Surfactants
 Lipophilic Conditioners
 Polymers
 Silicones
 Auxiliary Ingredients

17. Cationic Surfactants
the most widely used agents in
commercial products
Benefits Examples
Effectiveness stearalkonium chloride
Versatility Cetrimonium chloride
Availability dicetyldimonium chloride
low cost

18.  counter anions
•chloride
•bromide
•Methosulfate
Because of the positive charge
•they are substantive to hair and bind to
negative sites on the hair surface.

19. The Results
•hydrophobic coating on the fiber that
render the hair softer and easier to comb
• Buildup of static charge (flyaway) is also greatly
reduced as a result of this surface modification
• deposition increases with
increasing negative charge on the
hair surface

20. Are you sure ??!!

21. deposition and degree of
penetration into the hair fiber
interaction between cationic conditioners and
the hair fiber mainly occurs at the surface
low–molecular weight materials may
penetrate the interior via intercellular diffusion
Cetrimonium bromide
(CETAB)
can penetrate the cuticular sheath as well as cortex

22. Conditioner Properties
and Hydrophobicity
•Binding of Stearalkonium Chloride to Human Hair
Type of hair Quat deposition at Quat deposition at tips
roots (mg/g hair)
(mg/g hair)
Virgin hair 0.649 0.789
Bleached 1.62 1.83
hair
more hydrophobic leads to increased
deposition on hair

23. Cetrimonium Laurtrimonium
chloride chloride
deposits on hair
tricetylmonium chloride
dicetyldimonium chloride
monocetyl quat

24. tricetylmonium cetrimonium
chlorides chloride
dicetyldimonium
provide Provides
heavier light to
conditioning medium conditioning

25. Detangling and wet combing, in particular,
improve significantly from monocetyl to
dicetyl to tricetyl quats
Note that on some types of hair, the greater
substantivity of higher conditioning quats can
lead to buildup with repeated use and result in
limp, unmanageable hair.
e.g
A tricetyl quat might be
used, in an intensive
conditioner meant only for
occasional use.

26. commercial conditioners
and shampoos
The quaternium compounds normally used in
commercial conditioners are not generally
found in shampoos
because of its incompatibility with
common anionic detergents
&
conditioner

27. Example “Ethoquats.”
•polyethylene glycol (PEG)
•cocomonium chloride
Both of these quats are compatible with
typical anionic detergents
Introducing hydrophilic groups
decreases the conditioning efficacy
suitable only in light conditioning Formulations
conditioning shampoos based on ethoquats would
not be expected to be very effective as a result of low
deposition of the detergent-soluble ethoquat complex

28. Other detergent-soluble quats :
alkylamidopropyl
dihydroxypropyl dimonium chlorides
 lauryl methyl gluceth
 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride
hydrolyzed ginseng-saponin quaternary derived
from Korean ginseng saponin
low irritation
the same conditioning limitations
as the ethoquats.

29. Other Cationic Surfactants
Behentrimonium(C22) (longer fatty chain)
 reduced eye and skin irritation
superior conditioning and thickening
properties
Tallow octyl dimonium chloride
 provides high conditioning as a result of its two
hydrophobic chains.
soluble in water as a result of branching
easier to formulate into a commercial product.

30. immidazoline-based quats
claimed a softening effect on fabrics or hair.
 have also been disclosed
 led to the synthesis of ester quats that exhibit
biodegradability affect environmental safety
Dipalmitoylethyl
hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate
Guerbet alcohols
hydrolyzed keratin
Distearyldimonium chloride
soy and wheat protein milk protein

31. Amines (with fatty chains)
low pH protonation cationic
cationic
Emulsifiers and conditioning agents
such as
 stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
Different acids may have
different effects on
the viscosity of the final
product.

32. Lipophilic Conditioners
•long-chain fatty conditioners
cetyl alcohols
 stearyl alcohols
Function
Boost the conditioning effects of
the quaternary compounds
Reduced in wet combing forces on hair
Reduced surface friction.

33. cationic surfactants and fatty
alcohols mixtures
form lamellar liquid crystal mesophases and gel networks
increase viscosity
confer stability upon emulsions
manufacturing
solids at room temperature
requiring heating
to incorporate into a product
the cooling rate is not so rapid

34. Other lipids
glycol distearate
triglycerides
fatty esters
waxes of triglycerides
liquid paraffin

35. Polymers
(Cationic Polymers)
improved wet combing
reduced static charge
Examples:
Polyquaternium - 6
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-10
Polyquaternium-11
Polyquaternium-16

36. cationic charge density
the higher the charge density, the lower the weight
of polymer needed to neutralize all of the negative
chargeon the hair.
multiple points of electrostatic attachment
harder to remove
Care must be taken, to avoid over-conditioning as a
result of buildup with continued use
deposition of polyquaterniums increases on
treated or damaged hair.

37. commercial conditioners and
shampoos
compatible to varying degrees with anionic
surfactants
used more in shampoos than in stand-alone
conditioners
they find some use in leave-in conditioners.

38. Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10)
polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7)
•The most frequently used polymers in commercial
shampoos.
•Conditioning from shampoos is significantly less than
from stand-alone conditioners.
polyquaternium association complexes
formed with sodium lauryl sulfate resist
removal from hair
•Buildup
•heavy coated feel on the hair
•they are should carefully formulated.

39.  some polyquaternium materials
improve adhesion of the cuticle scales
thereby increasing resistance to scale
uplift when the hair is stressed
because of Other Polymers
cost, they
are rare. amphiphilc polymers
amphoteric polymers
block copolymers
graft polymers
dendrimers
use as
 conditioning agents
stabilizers,
deposition agents

40. Silicones
Conditioning effect
silicone quats,
Amodimethicone
dimethicone,
Dimethicone copolyol
dimethiconol,
soluble insoluble
may not be as must therefore be
effective in rinse-off
emulsified
products

41. Silicone emulsions can vary in:
1) charge (anionic, cationic, or nonionic),
2) size (microemulsion or macroemulsion),
3) how they are made (mechanical or emulsion polymerization)
the smaller the size of the silicone particles, the more
stable the product emulsion
reducing the particle size improves conditioning
performance
If a preformed
heat  to control
silicone emulsion is
not used???? particle size of
shear the silicone
droplets

42. Conditioning Properties of Silicones
 Lubricity
 Spread easily on the hair surface
 Ease of combing and imparts a
smooth, soft feel to the hair without
greasiness.
Dimethicone lowered frictional
coefficients and surface energy of
virgin hair to a greater extent than a
series of cationic surfactants, including
distearydimonium chloride, a very
effective conditioning agent.

43. Measure conditioning effect on Experiment
slightly bleached European hair 1
Dimethiconol gums more effective
in reducing dry
combing forces.
Dimethicone fluids
wet combing was roughly the same

44. Exposure to Experiment
silicone solutions 2
for 30 seconds
followed by drying without rinsing
 presence of
tricetylmonium chloride (quat)
 double deposition of all silicones
Reduction in combing forces was also roughly
doubled
Synergistic Effect

45. Effects of a series of silicone Experiment
emulsions on bleached and 3
virgin hair
Silicones
dimethicones or
amodimethicones
Emulsions
anionic
neutral
cationic
Emulsions were applied directly to the
hair and combing forces measured both
before and after rinsing

46. Before rinsing
reduction of combing forces by most emulsions was
greater than 80%.
After rinsing
the least change in ease of combing was found for cationic
emulsions,especially those containing amodimethicone
Combing forces on virgin hair increased less than on
bleached hair after rinsing
The silicones were more
substantive to virgin
hair

47. Effects of Amodimethicones Experiment
3
Deposition on hair was found to
increase with increasing amine
content in the silicone
Microemulsion in the test series
that provided high conditioning was
also shown to significantly reduce the
color fading caused by shampoo of
temporarily dyed hair

48. Other Silicones
Cyclomethicone
volatile and will not remain on dry hair, especially after blow-
drying
It helps other conditioning agents to disperse
helps improve wet combing and
provides transient shine
widely used as a solvent to reduce the
viscosity of silicone gums with much
higher molecular weights.

49. phenyl trimethicone
high refractive index, close to that
of hair,
commonly used in leave-in
conditioners to enhance the shine of
hair fibers
dimethicone copolyol phosphates
anionic functional silicones
able to complex with tertiary amines of cationic
hair conditioners and form effective emulsifiers
and conditioners

50. fluorocarbon-modified organosilicones
very hydrophobic like dimethicone; however, they are
claimed to have a lighter and more lubricious feel
silicone blends
blends of these materials
having different molecular weights
different functional groups
 silicones with other hydrophobic oils
improve overall conditioning benefits

51. 2-in-1 Shampoos
Silicones find important application as the primary
conditioning agents in 2-in-1 conditioningshampoos
the shampoo emulsion breaks, releasing the silicone
for deposition on hair.
Dimethicone
The conditioning agent used most
frequently in 2-in-1 shampoos
provide good performance in shampoo
formulations without excessive buildup on &
the hair conditioner

52. Newer formulations
Dimethicone emulsions
Amodimethicones
Dimethiconols,
Copolyols
Combinations of these different types
The level of conditioning from 2-in-1 shampoos
is lower than that from stand-alone conditioners
Many 2-in-1 products contain polyquats, which
might be expected to increase conditioning on
damaged hair

53. Polyquat performance on treated hair may be no
better than Dimethicone as a result of formation of
the negatively charged polymer complexes
in 2-in-1 shampoos
Dimethicone Amodimethi Dimethicone
cone copolyols
combing Similar Similar Law
conditioning Similar Similar Law
foam volume reduced minimal effect minimal effect
soluble dimethicone
copolyols did not perform well

54. Auxiliary Ingredients
Preservatives
Thickeners
Humectants Others
Emulsifiers Fragrances
Dyes
pearlizers
herbal extracts
vitamins

55. Preservatives
insure the microbiological integrity
If the product contains high concentrations of ethyl
alcohol (generally 20% or above), additional
preservatives are not needed and the product is
described as self-preserving.
Most of the preservatives used in
personal care products are described in
the Cosmetic Preservatives
Encyclopedia

56. Thickeners
Cationic conditioning polymers can also act as
thickeners
Hydroxyethylcellulose
a nonionic cellulose ether compatible with cationic
surfactants and stable over a wide pH range
the most common thickening agent added to
conditioning products
increased viscosity, this material stabilizes viscosity
over time

57. Polyamides
can be used to emulsify and thicken lotion or
cream conditioners
Polyacrylate-based thickeners
such as carbopol
in the past these thickeners have not always
been compatible with cationic surfactants
Recently, new thickeners based on polyacrylate
chemistry have been commercialized to address this
issue.

58. Humectants
purpose is to attract moisture
Examples
propylene glycol
Glycerin
Honey
Chitosan
hyaluronic acid
Not expected to be very effective in rinse-off products.

59. Emulsifiers
Most emulsifiers used in conditioners are
nonionic including:
Ethoxylated fatty alcohols
Ethoxylated fatty esters
Ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters.

60. To be …………
healthy & beautiful