1. Kääntäjä
Hexagon
Among other things, the saddle is needed to remove the Allen key. There
are many different sizes of hex wrenches for various screw. It may be useful to
buy a kit that contains a number of keys to different maintenance situations
there is always the key to the required size. On the other hand, if you only
need one or two sizes (such as 4 and 5 mm), can be järkevänpää focus on quality
rather than quantity.
Torx keys
Allen wrenches similar to a Torx keys are often needed mm. brake disc
mounting bolts.
Cross and screwdriver
Screw Drivers should be more sizes and shapes, because the screws there
are many types. In particular, the cross head is worth noting that there are two
types of commonly used (in addition to sizes); Pozidriv (PZ) and Phillips (PH).
Although they look similar from a distance, they are not compatible with each
other. In an emergency, often even in doing wrong, but it often causes damage to
the screw. Among other things, therefore, the wheels should be used with an
Allen or Torx screws.
Spanner / wrench set
Wrench to tighten the nuts and ways to loosen the tools. Different sizes
of nuts have their own wrenches. Keys come in many shapes, especially the nut
from all angles catchy ring spanner is a good työkalu.Sitä not, however, often
can be used, for example, pedal removal. You should find those having ordinary
jaw at the other end. Sizes of 8, 10, 13, 15 and 17 mm is needed most.
Preferably a couple of pieces each.
Socket wrench / ratchet wrench set
The key is used ratchet wrench and lenkkiavaimien way to open and
tighten the nuts. Ratchet wrench is available in many different sizes of nuts
for cores. The bottom photo with the ratchet set is a handy acquisition,
including the actual ratchet sockets in addition to several sizes. Ratchet
wrench provides high torque and socket grips the nut firmly on each side, so the
more tightly the nut will open easily.
Kartioavain
Such as a wrench, but thinner so that it matches the wheel hub, the cone
opening better than thicker wrench. Most of the cones open keys whose opening is
14 or 15 mm. You should find out as soon as the key pair with these
kitaleveydet.
Pump
Bicycle maintenance is a very important tool in the wheel pump to fill
completely exhausted tires. The pumps are available in a variety of nozzles for
a variety of valves.
Valves
The store is always a good idea to have a few inexpensive safety valve.
Rubber repair kit
The patch set includes rubber normally liimatuubi, rasp, a few different
size of the place, and in many cases the operator's manual.

2. Plastics ring
In general, the tire can change hands, but is needed between the plastic
rengasrautoja or plastic ring to the outer ring may be out of the rim. Back to
the rim, it usually gets on your hands.
Oil Bottle
A bottle of oil is a necessity for the wheel being serviced. Oil quality
is different and their suitability for different applications has been a lot of
opinions. Consensus-a consensus on one thing - canola oil is not suitable for
your bike!
Thread Cutting Tool
Chain can be lengthened or shortened by cutting it with the special
tool. Removing the chain wheel / Attaching the wheel will also require cutting
tool unless the chain is the quick coupler.
Puolausavain
Surfaces may become loose over time. Puolausavaimella they be tightened
when the ring rotates directly. If the ring is already in, or in connection with
the tightening of the spokes of the so-called. throwing, it can straighten
rihtaamalla, which requires a little bit of practice. The alignment spokes
locally loosened from the side, where the band throws and accordingly tightened
on the other side.
Strollers removal tool designed for
Strollers are often needed to remove the special tool or more. These are
of many kinds. Modern cassette deck is required to remove the lock ring tool and
a chain whip. Threaded pack can be removed only circlip tool, which is slightly
different than kasettipakkaan suitable. Shimano Centerlock brake discs will be
opened and attached to the cassette deck tool.
Various small brushes and suteja
Chain and sprockets are easier to clean if you have a small brush.
Tire pumping
Prepare the working environment suitable blank.
Open the valve cap and put it in a safe place for recovery.
Turn the wheel until the valve is at the top.
Set the pump to the valve on the mouth, supported by the edge of the rim
with your thumb and start pumping.
Pump the tire to full and put the valve cap back on.
There are a few different types of valves. The most common is the so-called.
Quick valve, as found in most of the bikes. If the valve is, however, differs
from the traditional may be that the pump is not able to directly pump the air

3. from the tire. In this case, a separate adapter piece between the pump and the
valve (for example, adapter socket screw thread of the valve and then pumping
takes place in the normal way). Ask this example, the bike shop from expert
staff.
They must figure below traditional. Missing from the picture narrow metal
mounting ring, or just a nut, a valve is closed rim. Valve and the black plastic
cap in the middle of the metal sleeve to prevent air from escaping through the
valve out of the ring. Ring can be emptied for maintenance work, for example by
loosening the sleeve enough.
Loosen the caliper mounting screws using an Allen key enough, turn the screw
counter-clockwise, so that you can move the saddle up or down. If necessary,
turn the saddle to the right and to the left while lifting or lowering it.
Mounting screw holding the lever in some wheels that turn the saddle mount gets
loosened without tools
Raise or lower the seat height. Make sure that the seat is level. Tighten
the saddle screw, turn the screw clockwise or turn the lever tight enough so the
saddle does not move while driving.
The saddle is the right height when you are pedaling leg can straighten the
pedal is at the lowest point, but one extends very pedal.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE seat tube, seat tube HEIGHT BRAND upper must not be lifted.
Seat tube must be sufficiently BODY inside the tube!
Bicycle Maintenance and Repair / Lock Oiling
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It is a lock, but not its use.
Oiling the lock is not ostensibly as no surprise. However, it raises worth
mentioning a pitfall. The lock is not put into the non-locking or snap-melt oil
(Gun oil is apparently quite the same as the lock oil). In particular, chain
oil, or "universal oil" should not be used.
The reason for this is the fact that the lock mechanism is rather tight. The oil
has a habit of "pikeentyä" period of time when the lock mechanism hangs (stuck
in the side plates). Different fats repetitive lock and also tend to collect in
addition to the extra dirt.
Slowly working or winter will freeze the lock should put a lock oil. Slowness
and freezing can be prevented by working proactively for example, in the autumn.
Completely jammed the lock may try to open one of the solvent (eg, crc, wd-40)
but it would not necessarily särkemättä open again.

4. Bicycle Maintenance and Repair / rubber patches
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The following is a step by step instructions for patching the outbreak of
rubber. In the example, the rear tire rubber patch up the hard way, but with
less can get. Workflow is similar to the case of the front tire.
In general, positions can be adjusted in such a way that leaves the tire onto
the wheel and takes only a hole in the tire off the rim. Hole, however, often
can be found just by listening to where on the hisses.
The fastest way to do the job equipped with a quick release wheel is to change
the inner ring and the paikkoa then erupted with time. So, one should keep in
intact rings in stock.
The instructions are applicable mainly to all the wheels, only the tire removal
and mounting is slightly different, depending on the mounting method and the
gearbox.
The necessary tools
In most cases, stoked survives without actual tools, ie the place the contents
of the series (place, "glue", and sand paper) are sufficient. In addition, of
course, some type of pump is required.
Pump
Rubber repair kit
Ring Hardware Kit (makes it much easier removal of a tire / rim laittoa)
Indian ink
If the ring is removable so for some reason (not pikalinkulliseen) bolted
onto the right size wrench (15mm) or a set of ratchet (or wrench). In addition,
if necessary, a screwdriver (for the screws, not the direction of the rim at
all!)
Bucket of water
Rubber patches
Rear tire mounting screws have been removed, and the tire lifted partially out
of the back of the fork slot. Mounting screw must be removed in addition to the
gray intermediate parts which leave the shaft by pulling.
STEP 1 - Work Environment
First of all, prepare yourself a good working environment. The spacious interior
of the flat terrain or outdoors, with all the necessary facilities are readily
available. Protect your saddle and handlebar for example by pulling the ends of
the plastic bag, etc on top of them. Turn the wheel over so that it is in the
country of the saddle and the control rods. This bike is easy to maintain, and
the ring may snap out of it.
STEP 2 - Tire Removal
Loosen and remove the tire mounting nuts spanner or wrench. Some bikes ring may
be attached to the Allen bolt. See, the key can not rotate around an empty nut
as this will quickly nut corners round. Such a nut is difficult to remove. Put
the removed screws and other small parts recovered, so you do not lose them, and
you still get piled on the wheel! If you disconnect the rear wheel, open the

5. jarrukäpälän screw so that you can hoist ring out of the swing arm.
When these bolts are removed, you can lift the tire out of the back of the fork
the slots. Chain leaves generally easy gear around. If it is the hub of the
wheel speed and remove the rear tire, be careful not to damage the cables. The
cable is not the reason to remove the ring. If the ring is still air left, empty
it at this point.
The outer and inner rubber rim around disconnected.
STEP 3 - Exterior and interior Removing the rubber rim
Next, the need to get the tube out. Start by removing the valve. First, remove
the valve cap and the black turning, followed by one or more of the metal
mounting ring around the valve off. In some models, the valve is just a black
radome. Empty leaves rubber outer rim generally quite easily by lifting the
outer edge of the rubber band to the exterior. If necessary, can be used to help
even the blunt end of the wrench (or rengasrautoja), which pushes the outer edge
of the rubber and the rim and pushes the outer rubber. When the outer rubber has
a second edge outside the rim, leaving it quite easy to remove. Usually also
comes with a rubber lining (please note that the valve is pressed through the
hole in the rim, so that the interior rubber gets loose). Treat the inside of
the rubber gently, for example, sharp tools can make it more holes.
At this point, it is good to check the external and internal condition of the
rubber visually. If ulkokumissa has large cracks or holes, you may want to
change it at the same time a new one. Similarly, if the tube seems completely
corroded, may be wiser to change the place of a whole new rubber.
Sisuskumista locating hole.
STEP 4 - hole location and position of the
If any sharp and thin has made a hole into the rubber, it can be difficult to
detect with the naked eye. A clever trick is to use a bucket of water with help.
Attach the valve back to the inner tube and pump it some air. Then immerse the
rubber water container (or such a big part as it can hold at one time). Visit
the entire inner tube through this way. You can also squeeze gently add pressure
on the rubber ring and a clearer view of the leak. Leak point to identify future
bubbles around it. Once the hole has been found, for example, felt-tip pen to
mark it for further processing.
Rubber seats successfully repair kit with the included tools. Take first a small
metallic rasp and sand the hole in the rough environment. This glue stick and
place the rubber better. Next, take a small liimatuubi and apply a smooth, thin
layer of glue roughened area. Places of different sizes - abrade and apply
adhesive to the entire site within an area. Let the glue dry for a moment so
that it does not stick to your finger when touched. Then, take the necessary
size of the place and remove the foil screen is bright. Press the foil against
the surface was over the hole and squeeze the current position firmly against
the rubber. In general, the place gets liimaantua rubber in minutes. Finally,
remove the on-site plastic film. Rubber has been patched!
Below is a series of pictures of the hole in the rubber patching. Grind the
first rasp hole rough environment (Fig. 1). Then apply a thin and even layer of
adhesive on an area of ??size (Fig. 2). Take off the shiny foil screen position
(Fig. 3), and press it firmly over the hole (Fig. 4).
Kuminkarhennusraspilla.jpg Liimanlevittaminenkumiin.jpg Kuminpaikka.jpg
Paikkakumiin.jpg

6. Place the wheel / inner tube into the rubber in first on one side and on
progress around the ring. May need something to help blunt object.
STEP 5 - Indoor and outdoor putting the rubber back onto the rim
Start rubbers in place by pushing the illegal rubber valve inside the rim of the
hole and tighten it to the rim, a narrow clamping ring. Some valves have no such
tension ring, it is therefore sufficient to insert the valve through the hole in
the rim. See the inside of the rubber rotate the wheel straight, and it does not
go to the thread at any point. Pump sisuskumiin little air, if necessary, so
that it seals around the rim, and holds it there. Place the rim and the inside
of the tube into the rubber inside, starting from one side and moving slowly
around the entire ring. At this point, care must be taken so as not to damage
the inner tube. Different ways to have a definite number, but it is worth trying
to get the tube into the rubber inside and then go outside to put the rubber
edges of the edges of the inside of the rim. At the end you will probably use
tools such as a wrench blunt end (or rengasrautoja) kammetaksesi rubber outer
edge of the rim on the inside. Note that at this point you will probably need to
clear the inner tube completely from the air, so you get to go to the outer
rubber in place!
When the outer rubber is all over the edges of the rim inside the tire pumped
full of air, so you can see it leaking (I hope not!). If the air seems to remain
in the ring, you can go to the next step.
Putting in place the tire on the rear chain.
STEP 6 - Mounting the tire on the rear chain
Tyre put back in the same way as the wheel was taken out, but in reverse order.
Lift the ring in place, put a chain around the sprocket and the chain lower the
ring into the slots. Remember any spacers between the fork and the nut! Finally,
tighten the ring screws tight enough to wrench or socket wrench. Do not forget
to pay attention to the correct place, as well as possible jarrukäpälää a
shifting frame holders.
Tighten the ring screws alternately and make sure that the tire should be
straight. This sees Rotate the wheel and looking straight throwing it rotates
from side to side. When the ring is in place, tighten the screws on the end of a
sufficiently tight.
Finally, turn the wheel over, and test run before you go further. Every service
should also be lubricated bearings, sprockets and chain, and to ensure that all
nuts and bolts are tight.
Paineputsaus water
One clever way to clean out the chain is to wash it with a hose (pressure) or a
pressure washer. This gets to be too hard in the dirt out of it. Be careful not
to greasy Moska fly braking surfaces. Beware of the bearings.
To pressurize the water is injected, preferably the wheel in the longitudinal or
vertical axis, wherein the bearings will not go water. Kura goes really well so
the chain links of the inner surfaces.
Dry scratching

7. Reasonable conclusion can be reached just by looking at the scratch off excess
with a dish brush. The result can be finished with oiled cloth. The device of
the chain around the cloth and rotating the crank arm so that the chain runs
between the rag.
Dissolvents
All sorts of tricks can be found, biodegradable detergents bensaan car and lamp
oil. These are the more laborious tricks.
Detergent oil soap and are less toxic than solvents. However, the condition of a
solvent to clean faster and more thoroughly.
Chain cleaning is also a special washing equipment, which is placed in
detergent. The device is placed downstream of the chain around the chain with
the chain on the wheel in place. Then, just rotate the crank arm, so that the
chain runs through the device. Your machine has rotating brushes putsaavat chain
quite thoroughly.
KMC chain Manufacturer does not recommend solvent cleaning or washing facilities
for the use of the chain. [1]
Lubrication
Various oils and waxes can be found.
Generally, a compromise is sought with respect to the chain to adhere to the oil
and the amount of garbage as the oil sticks to the chain and thereby closed.
Chains should be regarded above all oiled and not rusting. If continuous OILING
does not like, is mainly an alternative to a tougher trade. Especially in the
winter rain mud keleissä no options For tough oils are hardly any.
Ketjuvahat are good alternatives to conventional oils because they do not just
collect dirt chain. Prior to the use of the wax should be removed completely and
wash chains in some solvent-based, so that all the old or the storage of oil and
grease can be removed. Waxes are good kurakeleillä.
Mountain Bike Action magazine had also recommended chain oil from the most
flattest synthetic car engine oil. In the evening cleaned up dirt from the chain
and the oil is placed in a chain. In the morning, before leaving wiped with a
cloth to remove excess oil.
Thin Teflon lubricating oils (eg, TF-2) are also suitable, but they will have to
put every day, because these oils are not strong enough for heavy consumption.
The wires are different grades and different rates.
Perusvaijerit are normally braided wires. It is now available in addition to the
so-called. smooth (the slick wire) wires (e.g. Jag wire) whose surface is very
smooth. The wire runs really flatter shell and not get stuck very easily, even
if the cable and insert there would be a thin mud. Furthermore, it is also
available in a teflon-coated wires. Teflon to reduce friction when the wire is
moving swiftly cortex.
Is not the same kind of shells are used with cables. It always pays to choose
the shell with Teflon inner tube. In this case, the wire of the oil is, in
essence, that a couple of times a year öljyrätillä disconnected the cable is
pulled clean. Teflon lining to help, even if the wire is a sharp turn.
Wires has in practice (at least) three different types of head (various

8. locations suitable for the wires, the handle end of the act):
Shift (cross-sectional or longitudinal direction of the cylindrical head,
less than the brake cables)
Road bike brake cable (longitudinal end)
Mountain bike brake cable (transverse cylindrical end)
The wires are sold in addition to a variety of lengths. Going to the rear
derailleur cable is the longest. For example, a normal 56-size road wheel may
not be sufficient 180cm long cable. Tandem learning is usually not enough either
normal rear brake cable. If the cable length is not enough to be reliably
connected in a two wire, in which the wire passes through the free (without the
cover). Note: the front before connecting the cable must be threaded into place.
Connection can be made in an emergency by making, for example, a sailor knot,
but the connection is in any case advisable to check with one or two small
concertina squeezable tube stage.
Brake cables are thicker than the gear cables.
Wire cutting and tying the head
Wire cutting there own pihtinsä, the use of which is highly recommended.
Ordinary pliers and linjapihdeillä with a cutting edge, then you're successful,
as long as to make sure that the blade is thick enough for metallilangalle.
End of the cable may be small crimp the ends of the head is not going fraying.
These ready to be placed at the ends of the wire "sheaths" are aluminum, but for
the same purpose is also the old or the new wheel finishes for nipples.
The wire tension
The cable is tensioned correctly (or length) is very critical, especially in the
transmission. More on this side of the gearbox.
V-brakes
Make sure that you are buying the correct type of brake pads, you may need a
piece of the old model. Remove the second jarrulänkeen adhesive metallic outer
casing complicated Press jarrulänkiä at each other and through the complex out
of place. Remove the brake pad retaining clip nut (often the Allen bolt from the
brake pad pin). Checking the order in which the logic and jarrulängen both sides
of the washers are of different shapes. Convex and concave discs designed to
offer a bit of adjustment. Remove the old washer off and install a new piece
into place accordingly. Make sure that the piece goes to the correct direction,
usually a piece of the side of the rim is marked with the direction of rotation
arrow.
Adjust the brake pad so that the brake is pressed, the brake pad hits the center
of the rim braking surface perpendicularly. Brake lining the front edge of the
wheel rim should be taken before a piece of the rear edge of the front of the
rim, in adopting the closed rear edge is about 1 mm from wheel. Tighten the shoe
nut (this may require more undertakings as brake pad tends to turn when the nut
is tightened, therefore, be very attached to a piece of tightening it). Repeat
to the other piece of the same thing. In particular, check that the piece hit
the side of the tire during braking, so as not to puncture.
Adjusting Wire: Often with new pieces jarrulänget remain farther, because the
old worn pieces puristuivat them closer together. This leads to the brake cable
is loosened, if the goal is the same handle business from the old pieces. Start
by turning the brake lever found on the adjustment screw inside the handle as
possible. Set screw consists of a screw and self-locking nut, first loosen the
lock nut, turn the screw in the handle and tighten the lock nut. By turning the

9. adjustment screw in the handle for the wire rope tension can afford, which is
required when the brake pads wear. Check that the brake cable covers are
securely in place, also at the start by removing the complicated place. Run the
wire tension generous adjustment by changing the point at which the wire is
tightened jarrulänkeen. So, loosen the clamping nut / bolt and loosen / tighten
the wire and tighten the nut / bolt back. Fine adjustment can be carried out
handle screw.
At the same time, when you change the brake pads, you should also clean the wire
and oiled it lightly. In winter you can use the car oiling locks used to lock
melt if the wires tend to freeze. Add ropes.
The other half of the rim lags
Sometimes it happens that when the brakes jumahtaa the other side of the wheel
rim, or handle moved by the other side.
Basically, the brake control can be adjusted on both sides of the adjustment
screws (centering screws). These not only usually need (or should) cover: - a
better bet is to address the more general cause of the fault. So, oil brake
pivot, or better yet, the first joint of the cleaning and then oil. If this does
not work then only to be adjusted. Oil in the same cable.
Disc brakes
Disc brakes have a wide variety. It should be noted that in many cases it is not
even from the same manufacturer in different models do not use the same brake
pads. For example, pieces of equipment manufacturing Kool stop to the catalog of
this writing 46 erimallista returns [1]. The various pieces of the brakes is
changed in various ways.
Common, however, it is probably that the fire exchange is quick and easy
compared to the wheel brakes.
Disc brakes must also remember that the pieces (or plates) shall be discharged
oil. Pieces of perishable finally, the disc can be cleaned if the pieces did not
make it öljyyntyä.
Avid BB7
Avid BB7 mechanical model brakes pads changed as follows (no tools needed):
disconnected disk (ring)
rotated the brakes on both sides of the quick adjustment screws fully open
turning a small piece may be diverted into the old out (with fingers)
when the two pieces are not come completely off between the pieces of the
metal insert (springs) out of the
put new pads in place (like the old) careers
put a piece of string between them (career)
puck back
Finally, in such a way that cuts down the brake works as desired (each
individually quick adjustments so that the piece almost touching the plate but
does not drag on, as close as possible).
The job is quite simple and does not require the same kind of "applying" the
wheel brakes. Cuts corners can not and need to be adjusted changing. None of the
(hex, etc) on the screw does not need to be touched. Wire does not need to be
touched.

10. Hub bearing is usually attached to the axis of the cone and the hub of the
bearing cup through a slot in the ball bearings (other types are very rare).
The bearing is inspected, cleaned and greased regularly.
The hub must not be hand-substantial slack, but on the other hand, it must
rotate easily.
Before landing, look for an exploded view of the hub, you will see the parts and
their order.
Navan unloading and stacking
Kartioavaimia.
Cones open kartioavaimella.
Navan cones are locked onto the shaft nut (= standard nut). The package is
opened by opening the nuts.
Cones, hub bearings keep the balls in place, or they will fall when the cones
removed. On plugging it may not stay in place when you put the hub suitably fat.
The hub must not be hand-substantial slack, but on the other hand, it must
rotate easily. Thus, to obtain precise torque is not quite easy and does not
succeed every time on the first try as a professional. However, since it is the
only nuts so that will work in the end and does not in itself is not difficult,
just tedious.
All the hub parts are subject to wear in the long run, of course, but properly
tuned very long-lived.
Normal dimensions of the hub
Terrible generalization: Fork width 100mm. Rear Fork (10-8 speed) 135mm. 7-speed
130 or 135mm.
Shaft diameter is generally harder for 9mm but gets thicker.
The poles
The different shapes of the poles is a ferocious rate.
Find your hands on your belly exploded view, you will see the parts and their
order.
Cones are the different models of the different poles.
The use of various polar axes (length, thickness, threads, ...)
Poles have a wide range of ball bearings.
Rear wheel Ketjuvaihteisen is a particular nuisance, it is also that the hub and
freewheel sprocket mounting. Connections should be different.
In addition, the terminals may be other differences.
Nestevälitteisten or hydraulic wheel-disc brakes and bleed the manufacturer's
instructions.
In general, the work needed to manufacturer or model-specific expression of a

11. series, which consists of the brake caliper matching terminals and usually a
plastic tube and a syringe or container. In addition, tools are needed to open
the expansion tank.
Slurry and increasing the need for brake fluid suitable liquids. Brake fluid is
a wide range of bicycle brakes. For example, manufacturers of Magura and Shimano
use of mineral oil while in use, for example Hope Dot-4 liquid (car brake
fluid). These are not interchangeable, and using the wrong fluid can ruin the
brake lever or brake piston seals or the time to get up to burns.
Brake pads and rim jarrulevyineen is a good time to vent removed even if the
fluid is not properly vented, should not have to brake surfaces can splash it by
accident, or to grab the hands of the brake disc surface, for example, where it
is easily transferred to the brake pads. Oiled brake pads do not like.
The trip computer is a bicycle connected to an electronic device that measures
and displays the rider on the model, depending on the current speed, distance
traveled and time elapsed, peak and average speed and total distance, and time.
Other activities may include kalorimittari, tire speed measurement, and
especially high-end models, heart rate and elevation.
Between the different functions you move in a simple interface and a few,
usually only two buttons.
Computer attached to a wheel on the handlebars a small stand, when the computer
is able to take the wheel at all times when leaving the house.
Performing the measurement sensor is placed close to the normal to the front
fork spokes. Magnet, the sensor will react with the sensor attached to a spoke
on the same date with the screw. The sensor and the magnet, the distance should
be approximately 3 mm. The sensor and magnet must be kept clean so that mud
accumulated dirt does not affect too much the magnetic field, the sensor can not
register the tire rotation