2. At the end of this chapter, you will be able to:
Understand about concept of fixing
Understand about types of appliqués
Understand about drawing
Objectives
2Functional Training
4. Watches have now become lifestyle
accessories rather than a device that is used
to tell time. Since the dial is the face of the
watch it is undergoing continuous change
and innovation to meet these requirements
Initial changes were done in surface color,
then surface finish, then dial shapes and
now it is done over appliqués. As appliqués
are becoming more complex and
customized, fixing becomes one of the
major processes to enhance the look and
appeal of the dial
Background
Dial with index
Dial with eddi
4Functional Training
5. Initially the hour marks were printed on the
dial and were represented by Arabic or
roman numerals or mix of both
After that these became indexes which are
fixed on the dial
Initially the indexes were also Arabic or
roman numerals or mix of both
Simple printed dial
Two piece dial with
indexes
Changing trends of Appliqués
5Functional Training
6. Today these shapes could be anything
depending upon the designs. With change in
shape has come change in positioning
because of chronographs, windows and
other complex designs
Unique shaped dial
Changing trends of Appliqués
6Functional Training
7. Fixing is a process in which appliqués are
manually fixed on the dial face one at a time
Tweezers are used to pick up the appliqué
and insert the appliqué feet on the
designated holes on dial face
Fixing
Definition of Fixing
7Functional Training
8. Fixing is a critical process because the dial is now in its semi-final stage and
there is no scope for rework any more. A mistake means that the dial has to be
made again and this has an impact on the following:-
Delivery compliance against plan will decrease because some dials have to be
remade
Stage wise quality rejection will increase leading to a greater risk of client
rejection.
For dispatching the same quantity now more dials have to be produced and
this will reduce our productivity ratios
The rejected dials are a waste and so this impacts our profitability
Lastly, since the dials are in the last stage and each rejected dial has a far
greater value as compared to dials in the first stage. At the prices of 2011, it
was calculated that while a blank costs Rs. 5/-, the dial in fixing stage is worth
Rs. 40/-. After finishing this cost now touches Rs 150/-
Criticality of Fixing
8Functional Training
10. Index
Indexes are time indicators in the form of
Stick indexes
Pins indexes
Roman digits indexes
Arabic digits indexes
Luminous indexes
Shaped indexes
Types of Appliqués
10Functional Training
12. Eddi
Eddi is a sticker which is pasted on the dial
surface
Customized appliqués
Customized appliqués refer to some special
designs on the watch dial associated with
certain brands ex. rotor
Eddi
Rotor
Types of Appliqués
12Functional Training
13. Customized appliqués
Customized appliqués also refer to some
trademark on the watch dial associated with
certain brands
Bushings
Bushing is an assembly of stone and holder
where the stone is mounted on jaws given in
the holder. These bushings are used as time
indicators and their assembly as well as
fixing is done in house at TTPA
Trademark and logo
Bushing
Types of Appliqués
13Functional Training
14. Parts
Except for indexes, other appliqués applied
on the dial are called parts. For example
outer rings, chrono rings logos, trademarks
etc
Dial ring
Chronograph ring
Types of Appliqués
14Functional Training
16. Drawings are the ultimate reference point
for any index or dial. At TTPA we have
standard formats for drawings and customer
specifications and requests are converted
into these drawings. After the conversion
these drawings are used as the only
reference point in the plant for all functions
including quality and production.
Drawing
Reading the drawing
16Functional Training
17. An index drawing specifies about the following dimensions of an index
Shape : Shape of an index is the appearance of the index in form of Arabic
numerals, roman numerals, stick , pins and others
Position : Position of the index is the position of that index on the specified
hour mark
Length of index
Width of index
Index height : Height of index is normally referred as thickness of index
Pitch of index feet : distance between the two index feet of a single index is
called pitch
Feet dia : diameter of the index feet
Feet length : length of the feet of the index
Facet : Facet is the cut done over the index
Color of the index in terms of the plating done
Index drawing
17Functional Training
18. Index length
Index width
Pitch of
index feet
Facet cut, index height, feet dia, and feet length
are specified here
Arabic index
Index width
18Functional Training
23. Position of the indexes
The dial drawing visually showcases the type of indexes to be fit on the dial and
also the position of the indexes on the dial. Index column shows visually the
type of indexes required and the dimension (length, width and height) and
position of the index. Index plating provides the details of the color of the
index.
23Functional Training
24. Position of the indexes
Dimension
and
position of
the index
Drawing of the dial
clearly showcasing
visual positioning of
the indexes on the dial
surface
Index
plating
determine
s the color
of the
index
24Functional Training
29. Position of the indexes
Pitch is the distance between two points. All the holes drilled on the dial are
having tolerances in microns and the pitch serves as the reference frame for
the position of the all these holes throughout the dial surface. Commonly used
examples of pitch in dial manufacturing are as follows:-
Distance between the center hole and index hole
Distance between the two holes for fitment of index
Distance between two feet of the index
Distance between the center hole and outer hole of the chrono ring
Distance between dial center hole and chrono ring center hole
29Functional Training
30. Index drawing codes details
AP stands for appliqués
The first two numbers
denote the length of the
index ex. – 325 means
3.25 mm
These two letters
indicates the type of
facet cut on the index
The next letters denote
the type of index
Ex. SI- Special index
The next 2 numbers
indicate the width of the
index ex. 11 means 1.10
mm
This information is vital as it informs
about the position of the index on the
dial ex. AT 8 Hr means the index has
to be placed at 8 hour mark
APSI/3251/GC/AT 8 Hr
(KDDL/ APSI/3300)- This code is a drawing number and one can use this reference to
access this drawing from our database
30Functional Training
31. Position of dial rings and chrono rings
Position of
Dial ring
Position of the
chrono rings
Dimension
of dial ring
Dimension of
chrono rings
31Functional Training
32. Profile of Dial Rings
Outer dia of dial ring
Inner dia of
dial ring
32Functional Training
33. Dial drawing with bushing
Drawing
of the
dial
clearly
showcasi
ng
position
of
Bushings
Dimensi
on and
position
of the
bushing
33Functional Training
34. Bushing details
Generally
bushing is in a
form of square
so length and
width of bushing
is same
Bushing feet
length
Bushing
feet dia
Diamond dia
34Functional Training
35. Bushing code details
AP stands for
appliqués
The first 4 numbers
indicate the length
and the width of
bushing ex 1414
means a square of
1.40 X 1.40 mm
This number indicates
the bush assembly height
from the dial face ex 0.35
means 0.35 mm from the
dial face
This number indicates the
drawing that contains all the
dimensional details about the
assembly of that bushing
BS stands for Bushing This number stand
for bushing feet
diameter ex. 1.00
means 1mm
diameter
This number indicates
the bushing feet length
ex 0.30 means 0.30 mm
is the feet length of
bushing
This specific code determines
any additional positioning of
bushing ex. 2 nos AT 12 Hr
means 2 bushings has to be
applied at 12 hour mark
APBS/1414/1.00/0.35/0.30/5017 2 nos. AT 12 Hr
35Functional Training
36. Dial with Eddi
Drawing of the
dial clearly
showcasing
position of Eddy
Eddi
sticker
to be
fixed
details
36Functional Training
37. Eddi details
Guide holes
Guide holes
Guide holes: Holes on the eddi which are used to fix them over the guide pins
37Functional Training
