2. urban renewal
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urban renewal
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quIRKy DEcOR IN ThE
AGORA cOllEcTIVE’S
cAfE AT SAMEhEADS
lIGhT-flOODED cOffEE
a former indusTrial hub becomes
SAlON
berlin’s new bohemia
T
hese days, Berlin’s cachet of cool is located
in a gritty quarter on the city’s south-west
periphery. A former industrial hub, its rebirth
started roughly five years ago when Tempelhof
airport closed down. Rents skyrocketed, workers
moved out, and bohemians from neighbouring
Kreuzberg, and abroad, started spilling in.
Today, these young opportunists are revitalising
the area through fashion studios, artsy collectives
and designer eateries, creating an enclave uniquely
theirs in one of the world’s most defined cities.
Rag and Bone Man (9 Briesestraße) is one such chIll-OuT TIME AT
Overlooked as their glitzy instance. A stone’s throw from Neukölln’s main
artery, Karl-Marx-Straße, this chic dress-up box of
RAG AND BONE MAN
cities prospered elsewhere wooden floors and white-washed walls was started
Berlin’s Neukölln, Madrid’s by a Brit and a Swede only a year ago. On top of the
well-sourced stash of vintage clothing on the rails,
Malasaña and Rome’s owners Maggie Coker and Johanna Hagman draw
Pigneto were left in the crowds with their live-music basement parties, bake
nights and book readings from local writers.
VINTAGE fOR SAlE IN
SAMEhEADS’S BOuTIquE
dust for decades. Now, A five-minute stroll from here up the leafy Karl-
after some careful creative Marx, and you’ll hit Sameheads (10 Richardstraße,
tel. +49 (0)30 7012 1060, sameheads.com). Largely
tuning, these once rough- regarded as the progenitor of Neukölln’s renewal, These young opportunists
and-tumble districts are Sameheads’s three British owners moved it from its are creating an enclave
original Kreuzberg spot two and a half years ago.
stealing the show The large industrial space is a mecca for creatives:
uniquely theirs in one pASSAGE cINEMA
AlONG NEuKöllN’S
a design lab, recording studio, bar, café and cinema of the world’s most KARl-MARx-STRASSE
are housed across the two floors. Quirky, themed,
day-long DJ parties (come as your favourite dead
defined cities BOOTS AND
hATS ON
cAVE-lIKE DINING AT
celebrity) capture a fashion-minded, tattooed crowd And when the Neukölln hipsters need to refuel, DISplAy IN RAG
SIMplE SAuVAGE
who stay sipping whisky cocktails and beers into they snag one of the 40 hand-carved seats at simple, AND BONE MAN
the wee hours. chic Sauvage (25 Pflügerstraße, tel. +49 (0)30 5316
Though it is not all so pop-and-bang. Calmer, 7547, sauvageberlin.com). This concept restaurant
more retreat-like respites have their place amid the honours the diet of our Palaeolithic ancestors,
masses. Located in a gingerbread brick building meaning a heap of organic vegetables, thick slabs of
between a cemetery and a park, Agora Collective fresh meat, and absolutely no raw dairy, pasta, rice
(50 Mittelweg, agoracollective.org) is a members- or sugar. The decor, like the food, is remarkably non-
only art commune started by a patchwork team of fussy: single wax candles warm the earthen stone
Germans and Brazilians. Artists from around the walls, white cloth napkins adorn the bare-wood
Photo GETTY IMAGES
world come to the bright, minimalist space to live, tables, atop which a duo of long-stemmed yellow
work and hold courses on everything from museum roses lean together in clear glass vases. You don’t
curating to yoga poses for the collective’s pack of have to be hip to eat here, but it helps.
eager young protégés. Words by Conor Creighton. Photos by Guido Castagnoli
BOOK NOw! GO TO ryanair.com 79 80 Let’s go wITh RyANAIR BOOK NOw! GO TO ryanair.com 81
urban renewal
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INFLIGHT SERVICES
GRAffITTI- ThE SuN-INSpIRED
ScRAwlED wAllS upSTAIRS DINING ROOM
AT NAIf AT OjAlA
AT ThE flEA MARKET IN
MAlASAñA’S plAzA DEl
DOS DE MAyO
M A D,
BL A ND A ND
ESpIRITu 23 AS SEEN
fROM cAllE BARcO
madrid’s rebellious barrio, reborn beers and strumming guitars. Not surprisingly, this
spot offers some of the city’s top people-watching.
O
ne of Madrid’s central areas, spread across Down the hill on buzzing Calle Barco, six-
the hilly inclines off the Gran Vía, Malasaña month-old Quel Bordel (40 Calle Barco, blog.
D A NGE R O U S
has long been a hotbed of non-conformist quelbordel.es) is a pretty, petite fashion boutique
activity. Thirty years ago, the city’s restless youth stocking flirty dresses, weave tops and chunky
took to its tight cluster of brick lanes to unleash heels from a some of Spain’s hot independent labels,
their angst-ridden punk music and artworks – such as diKsi and Lavand. Check out their funky 58 59
born out of the 40 years of Franco’s dictatorship. collection of brass necklaces and slender bracelets,
And while its original rebels may have moved on, displayed on cracked wood, salvaged wardrobes.
its mission to spread a different societal vision
remains. Today, a new generation of entrepreneurs
and artists is taking to those same streets, injecting bag one of naif’s outdoor
a fresh energy through new and creative businesses. tables to feel like you’re The list of dietary exclusions continues to grow.
Here is what airlines need to know
Espíritu 23 (23 Calle Espíritu Santo, tel. +34 915
321849, espiritu23.com) was recently opened with in madrid’s largest open-
a goal to aid the artistic and social development air living room WORDS BY GUY DIMOND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANIA WAWRZKOWICZ
of the neighbourhood. It provides a space for
professional and aspiring artists of all stripes, with For some of the district’s top plates, head to
hire-by-the-day workspaces, multi-lingual fine- Ojalá (1 San Andrés, tel. +34 915 232747, grupolamusa.
and performance-art classes, and fashion design com). Malasaña restaurant gurus Grupo La Musa,
workshops. By night, local acting troupes give who have a five-strong clutch of sceney eateries in
performances in the 170m2 basement space. the area, opened this vibrant spot eight years ago,
Two minutes up to Plaza de San Ildefonso, one- with the intention of offering diners more than just Airlines do an amazing job of Yet the list of dietary exclusions
year-old Naif (16 San Joaquín, tel. +34 910 072071) a meal. The street-level dining space is inspired by catering for special diets. The and options continues to grow
serves its hip young crowd goblets of gin and tonics, the sun, so bright colours form the backdrop to chef major carriers offer a score or and expand like a gourmand’s
more choices for every sort of waistline, making it ever more
Madrid’s drink du jour, along with tasty bar snacks. Patricio Fonseca’s heaped plates of simple, inventive preference and penchant, ranging important that airline staff
The industrial interior of exposed lead pipes and global fare, like cubed goat’s cheese salad served from religious exclusions and understand what exactly these
graffiti-scrawled walls may conjure up a New York with tangy rocket and black olives. In the basement, vegetarian options to meals that dietary restrictions are, and why
are just plain bland – reminiscent customers insist on them.
artist’s loft, but bag one of its outdoor tables – spread it’s gone all beachy, with cushions positioned on a of the Goodness Gracious Me British Airways’ menus are
generously across the square – to feel like you’re in bed of sand. It’s as close to the sea as you’re likely to television comedy sketch, in typical of larger carriers flying
lADIES’ DRESS-up TIME IN Madrid’s largest open-air living room. The square is get in Madrid. which a group of raucous Bombay out of the UK. BA currently has 18
quEl BORDEl youths “Go for an English”, daring meal options listed on its website,
popular with young people who sit in groups sipping Words by Scott Adams. Photos by Ana Zaragoza
each other to order the blandest neatly divided into special meals
thing on the menu. and medical meals, any of which
82 Let’s go wITh RyANAIR BOOK NOw! GO TO ryanair.com 83
MARCH 2012 APEX | AIRLINE PASSENGER EXPERIENCE
Ryanair - INK APEX - INK
APEX_MAR2012_058_064_InflightFood_j_AG_f.indd 58 09/02/2012 11:53 APEX_MAR2012_058_064_InflightFood_j_AG_f.indd 59 09/02/2012 11:53

3. NEW
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The free colleague magazine Nov/Dec 2012
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