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University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
INTERNSHIP REPORT
Kohinoor dyeing mills
A Division of Kohinoor Weaving Mills (L.t.d)
Submitted to: GENERAL MANAGER
PRODUCTION
Kohinoor dyeing mills
Submitted by:
Azhar Hussain Shahid
Sheikh Arslan Shaukat
Muhammad Ayyoob
Omer Ali Bhatti
B.Sc. Textile Engineering
With specialization in Wet Processing
7th
semester (Final Year)
Date of submission: 12-08-2008
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Bahauddin Zakariya University
Multan.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
Dedicated to
Mr. Hafiz Muhammad Ali Jaan
Manager Dyeing
And
Mr. Amir Abbas Sherazi
One of our favorite teachers and a good friend of us
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
None, however great can lay claim to absolute originality in any branch
of knowledge. No one can deny it. Every one is indebted to their
precursors in the particular field in which they are working.
We are indebted to many individuals within our branch of knowledge and
outside it. At first, we are grateful to Almighty ALLAH, The most
Beneficent and Merciful, Who gave us mind to think and all physical
abilities to work out problems and obstacles faced in life, and for giving
us enough courage and commitment to complete this internship
successfully.
At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, we found people very cooperative. During our
internship we learnt a lot and found it as an excellent learning place.
We are very thankful to Mr. Asad-Ullah (GM Production) and Hafiz
Muhammad Ali Jaan sb. (Dyeing Manager) who allowed us to work
under their supervision. At this place I would also like to thank Ms.
Mumtaz Zia (Manager HR Dyeing) for her guidance and warm support
throughout the internship period.
We would also like to thank Mr. Nouman Shamsi (Manager Finishing),
Mr. Kamran Bashir (Manager Lab.), Mr. Nasir (AM Bleaching), Mr.
Naveed (AM Finishing), , Mr. Nouman (DM Dyeing for helping us
through thick and thin and guiding us in best possible way.
We would specially like to thank Mr. Umer, Mr. Rehan, and Mr. Naveed
Akbar for taking keen interest to help us out in problems.
With best wishes and regards,
Azhar Hussain
Sheikh Arslan Shaukat
Muhammad Ayyoob
Omer Ali Bhatti
B.Sc Textile Engineering, 7th
Semester (2005-2009),
University College of Textile Engineering, BZU, Multan
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
PREFACE
Bahauddin Zakariya University is one of the leading universities
of the country. University College of Textile Engineering is the heart of
this University. This institute is rendering invaluable services to the
nation Pakistan by producing outstanding graduate engineers who have
aims to change the world. We ourselves feel proud as being a part of that
superb college and of our teachers because of their excellent style of
teaching and vast knowledge, as well as their scholastic approach.
Preparing students to face the world confidently and courageously,
University College of Textile Engineering arranges an internship
Programs during summer vacations. The purpose of this program is to
give practical exposure to our field of studies. It is also helpful for
understanding the organizational environment and to deal with the
professionals. For that , We joined Kohinoor Dyeing Mills Limited, which
is one of the largest textiles Export Company in Pakistan. During our
internship span of 45 days we got chance to work in all the departments
of Kohinoor Dyeing Mills.
We tried best to include every thing which we learned and
observed here. This report details the technical and the managerial
aspects. This report is prepared to provide the reader with an overview of
Kohinoor Dyeing Mills.
Azhar Husaain Shahid
Sheikh Arslan Shaukat
Muhammad Ayyoob
Omer Ali Bhatti
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
AREAS OF WORK DURING OUR INTERNSHIP
During our internship at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, we worked on the
following areas of different departments
1. GREIGE INPUT
Process Flow
Inspection Procedures
Introduction Of Faults And Samples
Issuance
Lab Testing
2. PRETREATMENT
Process Flow
Machine & Steamers Specifications
Block diagrams of Machine
Procedures For Each Process And Machine
Chemical Recipes
Testing and Chemical Titration
3. DYEING
Process Flow and Machine Specifications
Block Diagrams Of Machines
Procedures For Each Process And Machine
Machine Conditions
Testing + Online Testing
Process Types And Conditions
4. FINISHING
Process Flow + Machine Specifications And Usage
Line Diagrams Of Machine
Chemicals And Their Usage+ Chemical Making
Machine Conditions
Testing + Online Testing
5. QUALITY CONTROL AND R&D LAB
Online Inspection
Online Testing
6. FOLDING
Inspection system and Inspection Procedure
Packing & Labeling and Storage
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
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University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
GREY INPUT DEPARTMENT
It is the first department in the textile-processing mill. It is called Greige
Department because greige fabric (from weaving mill) is first brought in
this department.
As the cloth is received from weaving mills, it is given a “lot” number
and other data in the receiving register. A computer record of the received
cloth is made and the cloth is stored according to the lot number.
When Production and Planning Department requires the specific
quality and type of fabric, the desired quality and type of fabric is issued
to the production department.
TYPES OF PACKAGES
The woven fabric comes in three types of packages which are as follows;
1. Bale form
2. Roll form
These types of packages differ in length, shape and type of packing.
The outermost layer of the packing is composed of polypropylene sheet
and under it is polythene sheet.
INSPECTION OF GREY CLOTH
Before the loom state or greige cloth is set for processing it has to go
through a number of inspections which would help to overcome any
defects and faults caused by inefficient weaving or mishandling of fabric
during its course of life from Weaving shed to Processing zone.
The greige cloth is inspected at two places
1. In weaving unit after weaving
2. In processing unit before processing
The purpose of inspections is the detection of faults and their removal
(incase the faults are mendable) caused by inefficient spinning or
weaving and mishandling of the fabric during the period from weaving to
processing zone.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
It also help to estimate the fabric quality and grade and it also assists to
consider the possible difficulties, which may come during the processing
of the fabric.
DEFECTS IN GREIGE FABRIC
The defects in the greige or loom state fabric can be divided into the
following categories.
1) Spinning faults
2) Weaving faults
3) Mechanical faults
4) Handling faults
5) Mending Faults
Faults can also be divided according to their mend ability.
1. Mendable Faults
2. Non-mendable faults
SPINNING FAULTS
These are the faults, which are caused due to improper spinning e.g.
Fat yarn
Slubby yarn
Thick yarn
Thin yarn
Uneven linear density
Count variation
Over or under twisted
Mixed yarn
Contaminated yarn
WEAVING FAULTS
The faults in the fabric, which are caused due to inefficient weaving
Short pick
Miss pick
Double pick
Short end
Loose end
Reed marks
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
Starting mark.
HANDLING FAULTS
These faults become the part of fabric during its weaving, transportation
and storage e.g.
Water stains
Color stains
Oil stains
Soil stains
Holes
MENDING FAULTS
Hanging thread
Mending Mark
Course pick
MECHANICAL FAULTS
Temple mark
Oil stain
Oily yarn
Selvedge defect
Reed cut
Let-off bar
Loose weft (slub)
PURPOSE OF GREIGE DEPARTMENT
The purposes of the greige department are
1. Receiving
2. Inspection
3. Storage
4. Issuance
Initially the fabric from all customers received here. Before it is stored,
inspection is done and results from QC Lab are considered. If the
inspection results of greige and quality control lab are satisfactory then it
is stocked by given its all identifications, i.e., lot no., bin no. type of
fabric total no of meters etc. and then according to the queries from PPC,
fabric is issued.
Internship Report
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
MACHINES IN GREIGE DEPARTMENT
Inspection Frames
No. of machines: 16
Rolling Machine
No. of machines: 02
RECEIVING OF FABRIC
First the fabric conducts into greige department, gate pass and list of
packing is provided by the supplier for greige department. This list
contains the whole information about fabric inside packing. It will be in
the form of bales, rolls and pallet. Then bales and roles are counted
measured and tally with the packing list. After clearance bin and lot no
are allotted.
RECEIVING REPORT
Receiving report prepared against packing list is sent to marketing
department. Here contract no is given to this report and sent back to
greige department.
SUPPLIERS OF FABRIC FOR KDML
Lot
no.
Contract
no.
Quality Width Weave Blend
Supplier
No. of
B/R Lot
Length
Ahmad HassanKWML
Suraj Cotton MillsAhmed Fine
Hamid TextileRoomi Fabrics
Fazal RehmanDimond Fabrics
Ltd. Qamar Fabrics
IMMI GarmentsFazal Cloth
Shafi TexelSamin Textiles
Fatima EnterprisesICC Textile
Sapphire Textiles
Mills
Sapphire Textile
Quetta Textile
Mills Ltd.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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PROCESS FLOW
Merchandiser Customer
Procurement Manager
Sample From
W i
Greige department Q.C Lab. Customer satisfaction
Order of Fabric
Receiving
Greige Department
Whole Inspection
Whole Treatment
Prepared Sample to
Customer
Accepted or
Rejected
Lot No. and Bin No.
Given
Inspection
Rolling
Send to Stock
PPC
Issuance of Fabric as
per PPUnrolling
Status Card
Pretreatment
Q.C Lab.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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SAMPLING
When a lot is received in greige, samples are taken for Q.C lab and
one for greige record also. No. of samples taken depends on type,
quality and length of the fabric received.
INSPECTION
The fabric comes in KDML is A grade as a whole so Inspection of
about 10 to 15% of whole fabric takes place in greige department.
Inspection percentage may vary depending upon the quantity of
fabric. If the amount of fabric is less then inspection percentage
may increases from 10% to 50%. There are five inspection frames
out of which 3 in working form. The main purpose of inspection is to
count faults in type of fabric.
In Kohinoor Dyeing Mills 4 point grading system is used for
inspection of fabric.
4 Point System
Length of fault Points
1-3 inches 1
3-6 inches 2
6-9 inches 3
9- above 4
This is called four point American systems. This system is
considered as a best grading system all over the world. It was
developed to create an understanding between customer and
supplier.
Average Point: Average point is calculated by following formula.
(Total Points) X (3937)
Total Average Points
Per 100 Meter2
(Total length in Meters) X (Width)
(Total Points) X 3600
Total Average Points
Per 100 Yards2
(Total length in Meters) X (Width)
Based on above calculation inspection report is prepared. If fabric
contains fault less then 15 or equal to 15 faults /100m2
then it
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
considers as ok or pass. If 18 faults/100m2
are detected in fabric
then it is under discussion. If more then 18 points are found/100m2
then it is rejected and tagged as hold or rejected.
Inspection frame
Daily Inspection Report
Then daily inspection report is made in which total fabric inspected,
total faults, faults per 100m2
, rejection or acceptance of fabric in
the whole day is written and then feed it into the computer.
STORAGE OF FABRIC
Re-Rolling
After inspection, the whole fabric is re-rolled and put in the
respective bin.
Storage conditions
Fabric must be kept in dry place and away from rain, tog, acid,
base, oil, and all other fiber damaging material.
Storage Capacity
Storage capacity of department is 6 to 7 lack meters. Bales or roles
are placed up to 7 feet height approximately.
Identification
If we want to find any type of fabric we have to see the stock
report. On the wall bin number and in front of each lot its lot
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
number shade total meters etc. (STATUS CARD) are attached, so
that it is identified easily.
Status Card
It is attached at one bale or roll in front of whole lot. It contains the
lot number, construction (quality), and number of pieces, total
meter, selvage type, party name, or textile mill name.
Production planning (P.P.)
Production planning comes from PPC department to greige
department. It tells about the construction ,lot number, number of
meters etc. so, according to PPC lot is taken out, then roles are un-
rolled and fabric is stitched and loaded on trolleys having an identity
number. During stitching keep in mind that stitching of different
rolls should be on the same side so, front to front, and back to
back.
Stock Report
It contains the whole information related to stock in greige
department. It tells us the total number of lot, types of
construction, weave type, contract number, supplier, total bales and
roles, meters etc.
ISSUANCE
According to PPC the fabric is issued. Daily issuance report contains
the whole issuance record of the day. It also shows the balance and
then it is fed in the computer, at the end side of report C or O is
written which means commercial or own respectively. Then fabric is
send to pretreatment department with its route card which contains
the whole information of process which should be done on fabric.
Unrolling
Fabric from the store is un rolled with the unrolling machine in the
trolley, before issuance.
Stitching Procedure
Stitching machine is used for this purpose. Two yarns are used for
stitching in this stitching machine. During stitching keep in mind
that front of fabric will stitch on the same side of other fabric. Also
on every fabric piece, its quality and quantity is written by textile
marker. Its ink is not removed during pretreatment process.
Internship Report
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
DDyyeeiinngg
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
Dye:
Dyes are colored compounds which are absorbed or adsorbed by the fiber
from a solution or suspension where they are subsequently fixed and are
thus used for the coloration of textiles.
All dyes have following basic elements
Chromophore:
It is the color giving element in dyes for producing color. Colorants are
sometimes classified on the basis of their chief chromophore, e.g. azo
dyes contain the chromophore (-N=N-). The most important
chromophores are azo, carbonyl, methane, anthraquinone and nitro
groups.
Auxochrome:
This is the second most important group in constitution of dyes; which is
responsible for increasing intensity of color. Common auxochromes
include hydroxyl (OH-) group and amino group.
Chromogen:
A chemical compound that is either coloured or can be made colored by
the attachment of suitable substituents is called as chromogen. The
chromophore and the auxochrome(s) are part of the chromogen.
Some Terms Used In Dyeing
Affinity:
The quantitative expression of substantivity is called as affinity. It is the
difference between the chemical potential of the dye in its standard state
in the fiber and the corresponding chemical potential in the dye bath.
Affinity is usually expressed in joules (or calories) per mole.
Substantivity:
It is the attraction between a substrate and a dye or other substance under
the precise conditions of test whereby the latter is selectively extracted
from the application medium by the substrate.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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Based on Application
Direct dyes
Reactive dyes
Sulphur dyes
Basic dyes
Acid dyes
Azoic dyes
Mordant dyes
Natural & regenerated cellulose
Cotton, Viscose rayon)
Natural & Regenerated Cellulose
Natural Protein/Synthetic (Nylon)
Disperse dyes
Vat dyes
Pigments
Natural and regenerated cellulose
Natural Protein (Wool & Silk)
Man-made (Acrylic)
Natural Protein (Silk/wool/Mohair)
Man-made (Nylon)
Natural and regenerated cellulose
Natural Protein specifically Wool
Acrylic & Nylon
Man-made Specifically Polyester
Natural & regenerated cellulose
Mostly for cellulose
Classification of Dyes
Dyes can be classified in three categories
• Based on Application Properties
• Based on Ionic nature
• Based on Solubility in Water
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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Based on Ionic structure
Anionic Dyes Cationic Dyes Non-ionic Dyes
Direct dyes
Reactive dyes
Sulphur dyes
Vat dyes
Acid dyes
Azoic dyes
Mordant dyes
Basic dyes Disperse dyes
Pigments
Based on Solubility
in Water
Water Soluble
Dyes
Water Insoluble
Dyes
Direct dyes
Reactive dyes
Basic dyes
Acid dyes
Azoic dyes
Mordant dyes
Disperse dyes
Vat dyes
Sulphur dyes
Pigments
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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Solubilizing groups used in dye molecules
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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Introduction of Some Dye Classes
Reactive Dyes
These dyes are water soluble and are anionic in nature. These dyes are
used for dyeing of cellulosics and modified reactive dyes can be used on
wool, silk, nylon etc.
These dyes have good to excellent fastness properties and form covalent
bong with the fiber.
Basic Structure of Reactive Dyes
There are many reactive groups that have been used in the manufacture of
reactive dyes but most reactive dyes have the structural features,
represented diagrammatically in Figure 1 and in the example of the dye
CI Reactive Red 1 in Figure.
Structural Features of a Reactive Dye
• S is one or more solubilizing groups.
• C is the chromophore of the dye.
• B is a bridging group.
• R is the reactive group.
• X is a leaving group.
Typical Components of a Reactive Dye (CI Reactive Red 1)
Some or all of these features may be present more than once in the dye
molecule, as in the case of bi- or poly-functional reactive dyes.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
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The solubilizing groups are usually sulphonic acids and they typically
range in number from one to four, depending on the starting materials
used for the synthesis of the dye, the overall size of the dye molecule and
the intended application method. Where high substantivity (the attraction
between the dye and a substrate) for the fibre is desirable (e.g. in batch-
wise exhaustion) a low number of solubilizing groups will be present
within the dye structure; the reverse is found where low substantivity is
required, for example, in continuous processes such as pad-bake.
It is possible to use almost any chromophore group in the reactive dye
class. The only structural features required are at least one sulphonic acid
group to ensure adequate water solubility and a site that a bridging group
(such as an amino group) can bond to in order to link in the reactive
group. Therefore, reactive ranges can incorporate, for example, mono-
azo, di-azo, metallised mono- and dis-azo, anthraquinone and
phthalocyanine chromogens. Bridging groups attach the reactive group to
the chromophore, but are not always necessary. Typical bridging groups
are amino (-NH-), substituted amino and amide linkages (-NHCO-). The
bridging group can bear some influence on the reactivity, substantivity
and stability of the reactive dye.
Relative Reactivity of Major Reactive Groups
REACTIVE GROUPS
Dichlorotriazine:
These dyes are highly reactive and can be readily fixed to cellulosic
materials by a pad batch dyeing or by a batch-wise method at 30-
40oC.These dyes are extremely suitable for bright dyeings but less
satisfactory for deep tertiary hues. Such dyes are stable in neutral solution
at ambient temperature, but subject to hydrolytic attack by hydroxide ions
at an alkaline pH. A weakness with certain Dichlorotriazine dyes is that
under acidic conditions the dye fibre bond is broken by acid-catalysed
hydrolysis, leading to deficiencies in fastness to washing or to acid
perspiration.
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Difluorochloropyrimidine:
Dyeing temperatures for optimal fixation of these dyes are 40-50oC. The
dye-fibre bond formed by reaction of cellulose with the highly reactive
difluorochloropyrimidine system is more stable in acid conditions than
that of the Dichlorotriazine system, but it does tend to undergo oxidative
cleavage under the influence of light exposure in the presence of peroxy
compounds.
Monofluorotriazine:
A fluorine atom is the leaving group in this system and they are therefore
more reactive than the monochlorotriazine systems.
Dichloroquinoxaline:
This type of dye has one reactive group and an amide bridging link
between the chromogen and the reactive system. Optimal fixation can be
achieved by batch-wise dyeing at 50oC. The reactivity of this system is
much higher than that of the corresponding dichlropyrimidine dyes and is
comparable with that of the dichlorotriazine and difluoropyrimidine dyes.
These dyes are readily hydrolysed under acidic conditions.
Vinylsuphone or sulphatoethyl-sulphone:
These dyes are intermediate in reactivity and are used in a number of
batch wise and continuous processes. They can be used between 40oC
and 60Oc depending on the pH. They tend to have low substantivity and
the dye-fibre bonds are at their weakest under alkali conditions but this
low substantivity makes washing-off easy.
Monochlorotriazine:
These dyes are of course less reactive than dichlorotriazine dyes and the
monofluorotriazine dyes and require more energetic reaction conditions;
therefore 80oC and pH 10.5 or even pH 11 are typically necessary for
batch-wise application for efficient fixation on cellulosic fibres.
Trichloropyrimidine:
This is a pyrimidine unit with three chlorine atoms. The reactive system
is made less active by the nitrogen atoms in the heterocyclic ring system
and thus dyes of this type require batch wise application at the boil for
fixation to the fibre. Dichloropyrimidine dyes are even less reactive than
the trichloropyrimidine dyes.
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Classification of Reactive Dyes
Reactive dyes are versatile and allow a variety of different approaches for
controlling the rate of dye adsorption, degree of dye migration and dye
fixation. Salt additions, temperature variations and alkali additions are
used alone or in combination to control the dye adsorption and fixation.
Dyes are therefore often classified according to the most important
controlling parameters.
Classification by Application Method
Classification Description Examples
Cold brand
dyes or “M”
dyes
Batch wise dyeing temperatures, for optimal fixation,
of 30-400C. They are very reactive and show high
fastness properties. These dyes require alkaline
conditions for application. The required pH for
dyeing is pH12.5. Caustic soda or sodium phosphate
is required to achieve this pH.
Dichlorotriazine,
Difluorochloro
pyrimidine,
Dichloro
quinoxaline
Warm or
medium brand
dyes
Recommended dyeing temperature of these dyes for
the maximum fixation for exhaust dyeing is 50-600C.
The required pH for these dyes is pH 11.5
Vinyl sulphone,
Sulphonamide,
Monofluorotriazine
groups
Hot brand
dyes
The dyeing temperature for this type of dye is 800C
or more.
Monochlorotraizine
High Exhaust
or “HE dyes”
(a sub-set of
“Hot”)
Bis
(monochlorotriazin
e)
or Bis
(mono
nicotinotriazine)
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Classification by Parameters
Classification Description Examples
Alkali
controllable
reactive dyes
These dyes have optimal temperatures
of fixation between 300C and 600C.
They are characterized by relatively
low exhaustion in neutral salt solution,
before alkali is added. They have high
reactivity and it is necessary to be
careful when adding alkali to achieve
level dyeing, preferably at a controlled
dosage rate.
Dichlrotriazine,
Difluorochloro
pyrimidine,
Dichloro
quinoxaline and
Vinyl sulphone
reactive system
Salt
controllable
reactive dyes
Dyes in this group show optimal
fixation in the range 80-1000C and
comparatively exhibit high exhaustion
in neutral pH, so it is important to add
salt carefully to avoid uneven dyeing.
Dyes with these properties typically
have low reactivity systems, but they
are sufficiently reactive for fixation at
800C or lower by batch wise
application. Temperature is still
important though and varies by
reactive group.
Trichloropyrimid
ine,
Monochlorotriazi
ne
or
Monofluorotriazi
ne
reactive system
Temperature
controllable
reactive dyes
This group is represented by those
dyes that react with cellulose at
temperatures above 1000C in the
absence of alkali although if desired
they can be applied under the same
conditions. Dyes in this group have
self levelling characteristics so there is
no need to use auxiliary products to
facilitate level dyeing.
Bis
(Mononicotinotri
azine)
reactive
system
When selecting a dye it is important to know the reactive groups present
in a particular brand. Typical brand names for certain reactive systems are
therefore given in Table on next page.
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Some Important Points in Dyeing:
• The efficiency and therefore the cost effectiveness of dyeing can be
greatly enhanced by knowing the type of dye being used, its
compatibility with other dyes and the ideal conditions under which
it should be applied (again). A reputable dye supplier should
provide all this information to a dyer, although it is best practice to
make systematic checks according to an agreed protocol.
• It is also necessary to know and continually monitor the quality of
dye being received. This enables the dyer to make adjustments to
the recipe to ensure the correct shade is achieved. Not doing this
can result in the need to re-shade, which can be costly. Choosing
less expensive dyes often means that the quality is poor or variable,
which can ultimately result in the overall cost of dyeing increasing
due to the need to use more dye, or to re-dye or re-shade.
• Fixation levels can be optimized and right first time dyeings can be
achieved through an understanding of the dyes being used, the
chemistry involved and having appropriate control over the factors
influencing dye exhaustion and dye fixation levels. Choosing
appropriate and compatible dyes for any particular shade is one of
the most important factors.
• If the dyer is not satisfied with the quality of the dyes they receive
they should discuss it with the dye supplier. In the longer term, it
may be beneficial and cost effective to use a more reputable dye
supplier that provides dyes of consistently good quality as this
reduces the need to alter recipes or to re-shade.
• Dyestuff manufacturers should also be able to provide information
that is of use to the dye manager regarding the dyes that they
supply. Such information would include the:
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Recommended trichromate for each dye range; this is the
standard, most compatible red, yellow and blue dye for the
range.
Recommended application conditions for each dye range:
application time-temperature profile; salt concentration; and
pH (for covalent fixation).
Fastness data for each dye: light-fastness at 1:1 and 1/12
standard depth; wash-fastness; and rubbing fastness. This
enables the dyer to select dyes with appropriate fastness
characteristics for their purpose (linked to buyers’
specifications). This is the expected minimum data, though
other fastness data would be of benefit to the dyer.
Percentage exhaustion and percentage fixation of each dye
under standard dyeing conditions.
Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS): these provide workers
with details of the proper procedures for handling or working
with particular substances.
• When buying dyes and selecting recipes many dyers and dye house
managers focus on the cost of the dyes and select less expensive
dyes. However, this may be a false economy because using cheaper
dyes may increase the dyeing time or reduce the quality of the
dyeing, leading to the need to re-shade and re-dye, and ultimately
losing credibility with buyers. Full economic costing should
therefore be used when calculating the cost of dyeing not just the
cost of the dye. This means that cost calculations should include:
Man power - salaries including laboratory and factory floor
staff
Energy - for heating water, operating machinery, pumping
water, lighting and cooling the factory
Water - cost of purifying ground water
Dyes
Other chemical inputs, e.g. Dyeing auxiliaries
Fabric
Any penalties imposed by textile buyers for delayed delivery
of goods
Cost of effluent treatment
Costs associated with re-shading / re-dyeing
Costs associated with testing/analysis
Cost of depreciation
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VAT DYES
Vat dyes constitute a very important class of dyes for dyeing cotton
fabrics.
Features of Vat Dyes
• Mainly applied on celluloses
• Insoluble in water
• Anionic in nature
• Two or more reducible Keto (=C=O) groups are present
• Vat dyes, although insoluble in water can be reduced in dyeing, to
water soluble leuco compounds, which successfully dye the fibre.
The leuco form is then oxidised back on the fibre back into the
original insoluble dye which is trapped inside fiber.
• Require great care during application
• Have the highest standard to all-round fastness
• Vat dyes have a very high fastness to washing.
• Have high light fastness
• Have good chlorine fastness.
• Provide a wide range of shades from yellow to black.
• Difficult to achieve bright shades.
• Expensive
• Used on high quality shirting, towelling, curtains and furnishings.
Types of Vat Dyes
• Strong Alkali Dyes
• Weak Alkali Dyes
Strong Alkali Dyes
Vat dyes belonging to this class give maximum color value in the
presence of high concentrations of NaOH (i.e 6g/l).
Weak Alkali Dyes
Vat dyes belonging to this class give maximum color value in the
presence of less amount of NaOH (i.e 2g/l).
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Controlling Parameters for Vat Dyes
• Time
• Temperature
• Ph (alkaline)
• Reducing agent (sodium dithionite)
• Electrolyte
• Oxidizing agent (H2O2)
• Soaping
Application of Vat Dyes
Application of vat dyes consists essentially of four stages.
VATTING
OXIDATION
IMPREGNATION
SOAPING
Vatting
To prepare the leuco form, the vat dye is pasted with warm water, often
containing a suitable wetting agent, reduced by Sodium Dithionite
solution, made alkaline with sodium hydroxide.
The amount of sodium dithionite required for reduction is influenced by
the number of carbonyl groups in each dye molecule. In practice this
theoretical amount is well exceeded to allow for any oxidation which may
arise through air dissolved in the dye liquor.
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The amount of sodium hydroxide required also depends upon the number
of carbonyl groups.
Vatting requires close control because a number of undesirable effects
can occur. If there is insufficient alkali, the leuco may be subject to
undesirable molecular rearrangements. Careful control o temperature is
also important. If the temperature is too low reduction may be
incomplete. And if too high, the reducing agent may react with dye in
another way. Moreover, some conditions promote the loss of halogen
atoms from those vat dyes which contain them. Thus for a given vat dye,
there are well defined conditions of temperature, ph concentration of the
reducing agent.
Impregnation
The leuco dye, once formed, is thus applied from a solution containing
excess of alkali and excess of reducing agent. In many cases, sodium
chloride is also present. The leuco form is anionic. Leuco dyes are,
therefore, similar to direct dyes in that anions are absorbed by the
cellulosic fibres. However the concentration of electrolyte in the dye bath
is particularly high and consequently the adsorption of dye is often rapid.
On the other hand migration is often slow. As with the application of
direct dyes, electrolytes facilitate the approach of the leuco dye anions to
the negatively charged cellulosics fibers, so that non-ionic forces of
interaction becomes operative.
Oxidation
Once the leuco form of the dye has been adsorbed, it is oxidised to the
parent vat dye. In many instances, atmospheric oxygen is sufficient.
However, some leuco forms are more difficult to oxidize and oxidizing
agents such as potassium dichromate or hydrogen peroxide are required.
Oxidizing agent may also be needed where the fibres are densely packed.
Soaping
After oxidation of the leuco form, the fibers are treated with boiling soap
or detergent solution. Soaping has a two fold function
• It removes vat dye particles adhering to the surface of the fibres
• Modifies the shade of the dye
On soaping, larger, better defined crystals of dye are formed within the
fibers, and indeed their lattice structure may be altered.
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Disperse Dyes
The disperse dyes are so named because these are almost insoluble in
water and hence used as finely divided aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes
can be applied to Nylon, Cellulose Acetate, Acrylics and occasionally on
other fibers. Disperse dyes are the only class generally accepted for
dyeing of polyester and cellulose acetate. But the major consumption is
for dyeing of polyester.
Classification Of Disperse Dyes
The two most important types of disperse dyes are MONOAZO and
ANTHRAQUINONE based dyes.
Other structural type of disperse dyes include
DIAZO
NITRODIPHENYL METHANE
STRYL
BENZODIFURANONE
QUINOPHTHALONE
Developmental work on disperse dyes is going on, and new products and
structures are frequently being introduced.
Disperse dyes are non-ionic in nature which account for their low
solubility in the water. However they do contain some polar groups which
account for their solubility of the order of 0.2-2 %.
These dyes are called as disperse because they are made into dispersion
and then applied on the fibre.
Characteristics Of Disperse Dyes
Non-ionic in nature
Insoluble in water
Possess small dye molecule
Fastness Properties Of Disperse Dyes
Fair to excellent light fastness
Some colour change possible in hot pressing
Stains wool badly
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Perspiration fastness is good
Crocking fastness is good
Fastness to sea water is good
Excellent washing fastness
Nature of Attachment of Disperse Dyes
Mode of attachment of the dyes is “a Solution of Solid into Solid”. This
theory explains that the disperse dye molecule is simply dissolved by the
hydrophobic fibre. The dye distributes itself between the fibre and the dye
bath in direct proportion to its solubility in these two phases. The
resulting equilibrium absorption isotherm should be linear up to the limit
of the dye solubility in either the dye bath or the fibre.
Factors that effect “Rate of Dyeing”
The rate of dyeing primarily depends upon the rate of diffusion of the
disperse dyes into the amorphous regions of the fibers.
Factors affecting the rate of dyeing are;
Fiber morphology (nature of the amorphous regions, degree of
available openings)
Molecular size of the disperse dye
Degree of hydrophobicity of the fibre (degree of dye solubility in
fiber)
Temperature in dyeing
Use of dyeing assistants (dye carriers, swelling agent)
Methods of Creating Opening
For the fixation of disperse dyes, it is necessary to create opening in fibre
structure. Opening can be created by following methods;
With the help of Carriers
HT-Dyeing
Thermo fixation process
Carriers
Dye carriers are small hydrophobic organic compounds. Carriers increase
significantly the rate of dyeing of hydrophobic fibers and are used mainly
for dyeing polyester and to some extent on triacetate.
Normally the use of carrier is not feasible as it is;
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Expensive
Toxic in nature
Removing carrier by additional process
Water repellent
Bad smell
HT-Dyeing
High temperature dying is usually done for one hour and the temperature
ranges from 125-130oC. Above 100oC, the swelling of fibre enhances
and therefore more penetration of dye molecule inside the fiber results.
Thermo fixation Process
In continuous dyeing millions of polyester-cotton are processed annually
by thermo fixation process. The disperse dye is padded onto the fabric.
The fabric is passed through IR-predrying section and then through
intermediate drying section. The purpose is just to dry the fabric. The
fixation of the dyestuff is done in curing chambers of the thermosoling
machine for 90 sec at temperature of 180-220oC.
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Sulphur Dyes
Sulphur dyes are compounds prepared by heating various nitrogenous
organic materials with sulphur, Sodium sulphide, sodium polysulphide or
other sulphurizing agents. These chemicals are described as countering
thiazole, thiazone and thiantherene rings with polysulphide linkages.
Characteristics of Sulphur Dyes
Anionic in nature
Dissolved in alkaline solution
Moderate to good fastness properties
Good washing fastness
Provide fair to good chlorine bleach fastness.
Provide dull colours
Very cheaper than other classes of dyes
Different types of auxiliaries are used in sulphur dyeing process.
The main are as follows;
Reducing Agent----------Sodium Sulphide
Oxidation agent----------Hydrogen peroxide
Solubilizing agent-------NaOH
Application of Sulphur Dyes
Sulphur dyes are applied to the cellulosic fabrics in the same way as vat
dyes are applied.
Sulphur dyes are water insoluble substances. So these are brought into
soluble form for dyeing. Sulphur dyes are solubilized using sodium
sulphide. In solubilized form they become substantive to cellulosic fibers
and hence can be applied by using padder. Application on fabric requires
relatively strong dye bath. After application, the dyes are reoxidized in
and on the fiber back to original insoluble dye.
Since little is known about the constitution of sulphur dyes, they are
usually classified according to the chemistry of their starting materials
and in accordance with colour.
On the basis of solubility we can classified these into three classes;
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Water insoluble sulphur dyes
Ready to use liquid formulations-leuco sulphur dyes
Water insoluble “bunte salts” solubilized sulphur dyes
Sulphur Black
It is the most important member of the sulphur group. This is because of
ease of preparation, cheap dyeing and fastness properties. Full black
shades are obtained on cotton by air oxidation after dyeing from sodium
sulphide bath. It is remarkably fast to light, acids, alkalis, scouring and
milling.
Disadvantages of Sulphur Dyes
Sensitive to chlorine bleaches
Poor fastness to bleaching agents
Very toxic in nature
Bronzing: if dye does not penetrate inside the fiber perfectly and
remains on the surface of the fabric then surface of the fabric
appears shiny.
Tendering: if the dyes fabric is not stored in neutral conditions,
then there are chances of the formation of sulphuric acid because
the fibers absorb moisture from air. Hence strength of the fabric is
weakened.
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DYEING FLOOR
Machines on Dyeing Floor
LINE # 1
Pad Thermosol
Manufacturer Monforts (Germany)
Working Width 180cm
Year of manufacture 2001
Padder
Company Kusters (Germany)
Pad Steam
Manufacturer Benninger (Germany)
Working Width 180cm
Year of manufacture 2004
LINE # 2
Pad Thermosol
Manufacturer Monforts (Germany)
Working Width 180cm
Year of manufacture 2001
Padder
Company Kusters (Germany)
Pad Steam
Manufacturer Brugman (Holland)
Working Width 180cm
Year of manufacture 2001
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Pad Thermosol Machine
There are two pad-thermosol machines in line # 1 and line # 2 installed at
Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. If we stand in front of the dyeing lab then on our
right hand side there is pad dry # 1 and on left hand side there is pad dry
#2.
Both the machines have similar parts.
1. Entry section
a. Batcher unit
b. Pull roll system
c. J-Scray
d. Cloth guiders
e. Cooling drums
f. PLEVA humidity sensor
2. Kusters padder
3. VTG
4. IR chambers
5. Drying and curing chambers
6. Outlet section
Inlet Section
Inlet consists of following parts.
o Batcher unit
o Pull roll system
o J-Scray
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o Plaitor
o Tensioner rollers
o Cooling Drums
o PLEVA humidity sensor
o Cloth guiders
The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously
being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric
can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/
trolley change.
Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on
the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be
store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250
meters.
There are two cooling drums after the scray. Fabric from scray flows
from these cooling rollers. Chilled water from chiller is fed through on
side of the drums and slightly warm water is collected from the other end
and sent back to the chiller.
The function of these rollers is to reduce the temperature of the fabric, so
that it cannot raise the temperature of trough. Incase of reactive dyes, if
temperature of the trough is raised then there are chances that dye will
react with OH-
of water (Dye Hydrolysis). This exchange of heat may
cause LCR problems.
Padding Section
Main parts included in this section are:
• Padder rollers (Kusters Swimming Roll technology)
• Trough
• Economizer rollers
• Feeding nozzles
• Level sensor
• Chiller
• Mixing and dosing station
• Hydraulic system
The fabric after passing the cooling drums is guided through guide rollers
into trough containing the dye liquor to impregnate the fabric.
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According to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff made in the separate mixing
station is fed to the trough.
Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which
the dye liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. There are two
dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is fed in the trough due to
gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot water or with 2% hydro
and caustic.
Capacity of the trough is 60L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh
water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding
temperature of 40o
C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of
the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling.
There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing
probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered
down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic
action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased
due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is
fed at intervals.
There are small feeding nozzles throughout the width of the trough, from
which the dye liquor is fed. The purpose of using a number of nozzles is
to avoid the problem of concentration variation within the trough. Some
times in case of dye liquors having impurities or un-dissolved dyes
(especially incase of Vat dyestuff), pieces of fine meshing cloth (Organdi
Cloth) at the tied mouth of each nozzle to filter the dye liquor.
There is mechanism for the lowering and raising of the trough. The
trough can be lowered for washing purposes. There is a drain pipe
attached to the trough to drain the exhausted liquor.
The fabric to be dyed is stitched with the leading cloth and the leading
fabric is passed the trough. After that the trough is filled with dyestuff up
to 55 to 60 liter. There are four economizer rollers (covered with soft
rubber) in the trough to provide under liquor squeezing of the fabric.
The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder
rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the
excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur. Kusters padder (installed
at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills) is the best solution for the LCR problem. The
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center pressure at the padder is hydraulic while the pressure at the shafts
of the padder rollers is pneumatic.
There is a hydraulic system connected to the padder to provide the
pressurized oil for the pressure in the padder roller. There is a heat
exchanger in the hydraulic system. Chilled water from chiller exchanges
heat with the warm oil in the hydraulic system. This is to cool down the
temperature of the hydraulic oil so that its viscosity may not change and
hence provide even pressure across padder width and work at maximum
efficiency. A circulation pump then feeds it to the padder rollers.
There are three knobs at the named as L, C and R to adjust the pressure at
left, center and right respectively. Central pressure is provided by the
management and the operator adjusts the pressure of left and center
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accordingly so that no LCR problem is seen in the dyed fabric. This
pressure adjustment is called as tuning. A graph is provided in the panel
which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides
of padder with respect to central pressure. But this is not definite because
the fabric may have varying absorbency in LCR. So tuning is done to
avoid this problem.
Mechanism of Kusters swimming rollers
It is based on a mechanism where the roller floats on a hydraulic cushion.
Oil pressure applied internally over the full width of the bowl counters
the deflection of the outer shell. The oil pressure is directed towards the
mangle nip and the oil occupies one half of the space inside the bowl.
There is a danger that the deflecting internal mandrel will foul the internal
surface of the swimming roller. A graph is therefore supplied with each
machine, showing the permitted settings of air pressure to the bowl shafts
and the internal oil pressure.
The outer boundaries of the polygon must not be breached; otherwise
there is a danger of mechanical damage
The graph is specified to that particular machine and, although it is
located on the control panel of that machine for all to see, over a period of
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time it tends to become contaminated with dirty oil and dyestuff,
rendering it almost illegible. It is thus a wise precaution to keep another
copy.
The operation of the hydraulic chamber and the bearing pressure can
deflect every S roller positively or negatively, or allow the flexible line of
a conventional roller to be followed whilst applying even pressure.
For example, if we have fixed the central pressure at 2 bar and then we
adjust the left and right pressure by following the graph provided at
panel. Then initial running of the fabric is done and fabric is checked for
LCR variation at the exit of the machine. If there is no difference in LCR
then it is ok. But if LCR problem is occurring then tuning of the left and
right pressure must be done.
The Kusters padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup
should be 60 to 80% (depending upon the shade depth and quality).
VTG Section
It consists of vertically placed guide roller. Their purpose is to give
aeration to fabric to some extent and to give reasonable penetration time
of the dye into fabric. Also these rollers are Teflon coated to avoid stains
on the fabric due to rusting and stickiness of chemicals.
If these rollers are not placed in the flow of fabric and directly sent to IR
chambers, the dye will remain at the surface of the fibers and will not be
present at the center of the fibers. So migration problems and poor wash
fastness will be resulted.
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I.R Chambers
There are two IR chambers in each pad thermosol machine at Kohinoor
Dyeing Mills. These chambers help in the pre-drying of the padded fabric
so that dye migration chances become negligible in subsequent processes.
About 60-70 % of the moisture is removed
I.R have more penetration power than an ordinary dryer and can
evaporate water molecules from the inner core of fiber without coming
out on surface.
Thus in this way evaporation of water is done from inner side of fabric
without coming out on the surface and thus die will remain inside the
fiber. Drying is carried out at temperatures of 1000o
C.
Heating System for IR Chambers
I.R chambers at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills are gas fired.
Air is sucked through atmosphere with the help of blower and is filtered.
There is damper in the flow of air, which will control the vibration of this
equipment. After damper, there is a butterfly valve, which regulates flow
of air, and then ahead of it solenoid valve is present which indicates the
air pressure by giving signal on the panel.
Gas is carried through supply mains. The gas is filtered first and then
ahead of filter there is a gauge which is showing pressure of gas in mbar.
At this point pressure is 10 mbar. Then there is a pressure reducing valve,
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which reduces pressure which indicates on next gauge. At this point the
pressure to 80 mbar then again pressure reducing valve reduces pressure
from 80 mbar to 60 mbar. Then after this gauge there is a pair of solenoid
valve which regulates the flow of fuel gas.
There is an LPG vaporizer for vaporizing the LPG, incase LPG is being
used as fuel gas.
Air and gas are mixed in MAXON mixing tube in a proper ratio. Air and
gas are mixed in a ratio of 4/1. For proper mixing of the air and gas swill
plates are present in mixing tube which mixed the gas and air properly.
Then this gas air mixture is carried to the I.R chamber through main duct,
where it is further divided into six parts i.e. three on each side of an I.R
chamber.
The gas-air mixture enters into the core of the heater from one side. An
electric spark plug is on the other side of the heater for ignition. There are
two thick ceramic plates in the heater and between the plates there is a
narrow slit. The flame ejects through the narrow slit and also heats the
ceramic plates. Ceramic plates radiate IR energy which is then used up in
the evaporation of the water at a very high speed.
The pressure of gas air mixture at burning point is 12 mbar. When this
pressure reduces less then 10 mbar then the burner will automatically trip.
The temperature range of I.R. chamber is 750ºC – 1200ºC.
The burnt gases and water vapors are exhausted through rectangular
exhaust holes in the roof of the IR-chamber. There is an exhaust pipe
connected to the roof of IR chamber which takes away these gases and
vapors. There is one exhaust fan to exhaust the gases from both IR-
dryers.
Drying and Curing Chambers
There are three drying chambers and two curing chambers in both Pad-
Thermosol machines (at line # 1 and line # 2) in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills.
These chambers are having the same structure but vary in Cloth content
and temperatures inside the chambers. Drying is performed at
temperatures ranging from 100-140 oC, while curing is done at
temperatures ranging from 180-230 o
C.
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Each chamber consists of a series of rollers stacked vertically in a
chamber. Fabric enters the chamber at one end and passes from the upper
roller to the lower roller, threading in this way trough the chamber to the
exit at other end.
Hot air is circulated past the open sheets of fabric formed by the
alternating pair of upper and lower rollers. This allows the fabric to be
dried form both sides ate the same time. The tensions on the fabric are
similar to dying cans, the major difference is that fabric-to-metal contact
is minimal and water can evaporate from both sides of the fabric
simultaneously.
At thermosol machine, each chamber can be heated to different
temperatures, so this arrangement would allow for lower temperature
drying zones followed by higher temperature curing zones.
For producing higher temperature inside the chambers there is a radiator
in which Therm-Oil is flowing. Besides there is a Circulation Fan
(Blower) which sucks air from the atmosphere by centrifugal action and
throws it at the radiator. The air becomes hot by exchanging heat with the
radiator pipes. This hot air is then circulated in whole chamber through
nozzles.
Therm-Oil is heated in the Therm-Oil boiler. The hot oil is then fed to the
thermosol chamber via supply pipes. The used oil is then sent back to the
boiler for further heating.
To maintain a constant temperature inside the chamber, we have to
control the air circulation rate (through circulation fan), air exhaust rate
(through exhaust fan) and the temperature of the oil (through oil
circulation pumps).
In each chamber there is a dancer for compensating the tension of the
fabric. In 2nd
and 3rd
chamber there is a special roller before the
compensator, which is used to shutdown machine if there is problem in
the machine i.e. whether the compensator is not working properly or
tension is becoming out of order. There is an indicator attached to this
roller and it will give signal to the panel when the roller changes its
position and machine will shutdown.
In 1st
chamber, rollers are Teflon coated to avoid sticking of chemicals to
the rollers which will affect the fabric.
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Also PLEVA humidity sensor is present in each chamber which shows
%age humidity within the chamber on the panel.
There is a gauge on each dryer which is showing the balance of air inside
the chamber. If it is at 0 (neutral), it means air circulation in upper and
lower side is same. If positive + , then it means air in upper side is more
then lower side and if it is negative- it means air in lower side is more
then air in upper portion. However, here the neutral condition is desirable.
There is a knob in the machine which is used to adjust the air to be
exhausted from the chamber. A Lint Sieve is present on the bottom of
chamber above radiator, which filters the air from fluff. This sieve is
removed from the chamber at intervals and is cleaned.
1. Feeding section
2. Kusters Padder
3. Wetting unit
4. Thermex hot-flue
5. Measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere)
6. Steam injection unit
7. Outlet section
Cooling Drums
There are 4 cooling drums at the exit if the fabric from the chambers.
These are water circulated from inside. Cool water flows in from one side
and slightly hot water exits from the other side. The purpose is to cool
down the fabric to normal temperature before plaiting it into trolley or
winding it in batch form.
Outlet Section
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Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The
batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing.
Outlet section consists of following main parts:
• Pull roll system and J-Scray
• Cooling drums
• Static charge eliminator
• Cloth guiders
• Winder
Specifications of Pad-Thermosol machine
Model: Thermex C - C – C
Fabric speed 6 – 120 m/min
VTG 12m of fabric
Gas air mixer pressure 60-80 mbar
Drying chambers 3
Curing chambers 2
Rollers 40 + 40 + 40 = 120
Nominal width 200 cm
Working width 180 cm
Fabric (48+ 48 + 48) = 144m
Width (among transport rollers of dryer) 960mm
Diameter of transport rollers 140 mm
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Pad-Steam Machine
There are two PAD-STEAM machines at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills.
• Benninger Pad-Steam (in dyeing line # 1)
• Brugman Pad-Steam (in dyeing line # 2)
We will discuss now each machine separately.
Benninger Pad-Steam
Main sections of this machine are
• Entry Section
• Padding Section
• Booster
• Steamer
• Washing Boxes
• Drying Cylinders
• Exit Section
Inlet Section
Inlet consists of following parts.
o Batcher unit
o Pull roll system
o J-Scray
o Plaitor
o Tensioner rollers
o Cloth guiders
The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously
being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric
can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/
trolley change.
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Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on
the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be
store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250
meters.
Padding Section
Main parts included in this section are:
• Padder rollers (Benninger’s Bicoflex technology)
• Trough
• Economizer rollers
• Feeding nozzles
• Level sensor
• Mixing and dosing station
Benninger Pad-Steam at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is mainly being used for
the developing, oxidation and washing of Vat dyestuffs or fixation of the
reactive dyestuffs (PDPS route).
Fabric is led to the trough with the help of guide rollers. Trough has a
capacity of about 40L. There are 3 economizer rollers for under liquor
squeezing. The bottom roller in the trough is made up of Stainless steel
while the other two are soft rubber coated.
According to the lab dip recipe, the chemical solution made in the
separate mixing station is fed to the trough.
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Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which
the dye liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. The recipe is
prepared and fed at cold. For this purpose ice blocks are added to the
mixing tanks. There are two dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is
fed in the trough due to gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot
water or with 2% hydro and caustic.
Capacity of the trough is 40L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh
water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding
temperature of 40o
C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of
the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling.
There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing
probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered
down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic
action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased
due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is
fed at intervals.
There is a rod connected to the feed pipe from the dosing tanks. There are
small holes in this rod throughout the length of the padder trough. This
rod is connected to the trough and chemicals are fed through it.
There is mechanism for the lowering, raising and tilting of the trough.
The trough can be lowered for washing purposes or can be drained by
moving it in a fixed path. There is also a drain pipe attached to the trough
to drain the exhausted liquor.
The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder
rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the
excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur.
The BICOFLEX roll consists of a fixed load bearing axle with bearings at
each end. Pressure pads are mounted across the full width of the load
bearing axle and around its circumference.
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Each pressure pad is connected to a compressed air supply to provide
individual pressure control against the articulated sleeve. Supported on
rollers on top of the air-cushioned rubber pads is the flexible outer sleeve
which carries the removable shrunk-fit rubber working sleeve.
BICOFLEX rolls can also be retrofitted into existing padders.
The BICOFLEX roll ensures a uniform application, even with changing
fabric width. It is a convincing, technologically unique solution
individual internal pressure zone adjustment over the whole fabric width
as well as retracting cushions for avoiding selvedge pressing.
Side and end views of the BICOFLEX rollers
Benninger’s Bicoflex rollers help in minimizing variation in LCR and
lengthwise shade variation. There is pneumatic pressure throughout the
width of the padder. Bicoflex roller helps in using various nip profiles.
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Nip pressure profiles with a BICOFLEX roller system
Booster
There is booster installed overhead after the Bicoflex padder. Chemicals
can also be applied here onto the fabrics. The construction of the booster
padding rollers offers uniform nip, such that it ensures equal and uniform
liquor application. Liquor pick up can be adjusted from 70-130%. There
is an economizer trough in it which contains the liquor. This trough can
be raised or lowered when required. The liquor turnover in the trough is
14l/m. there is a swiveling roller in the trough. Because of the quick
liquor turnover, possible errors in the initial filling have almost no effect
and deviations over length are avoided. The displacement body can be
pneumatically lifted for easy cleaning of the BOOSTER.
This is used incase of vat dyeing or Sulphur dyeing for the application of
reducing agent or alkali application incase of reactive dyestuff. But
during our course of internship at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, booster was
not in operation.
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Steamer
The fabric leaving the padding section r booster section enters into the
steamer section. This is a Tight-strand roller steamer. The distance from
the booster or the Bicoflex padder is very short to ensure that no air
oxidation takes place.
1. Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan
for excess steam
2. Section with 25 m fabric content
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3. Large roller diameter (193 mm) for creaseless fabric run
4. Lifetime lubricated bearings
5. Top rollers individually driven by AC-motors
6. Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control
7. Roof heating
8. Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor
distribution
9. Temperature or volume controlled fresh
10.water flow to the water seal
11.Steam conditioning unit
12.Probe to measure the steam condition (below steamer bottom level)
13.Automatic cleaning system (option)
The fabric after passing through different guide rollers then comes to the
main steaming section. There are three dancer rollers to compensate for
the tension in the fabric, one at entry to steamer, one in the middle of the
steamer and one at the exit of the steamer. At the exit side there is a water
lock which serves as a seal for the steam to exit. This water lock is
temperature controlled and also serves to cool down the dyes when
necessary.
There is an exhaust pipe for condensate in bottom of steamer entry side.
In the Steamer, temperature required for the fixation of dyes is given to
the fabric. This temperature is achieved by fully saturated steam. This
saturated steam is supplied by steam saturator. Prior to entry into the
steamer, the steam is saturated in a steam conditioning device. There is a
controlled device for controlling the steam entering into the steamer. This
helps to avoid loss of energy.
Constant saturated steam conditions are the essential prerequisite for
perfect dyeings and their reproducibility. Benninger Reacta has an
arrangement to control for the humidity in incoming steam through a
steam conditioning station.
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This saturator mixes steam and water under pressure. The purpose of
using saturated steam is that the chemicals used for developing should not
dry on the surface of fabric preventing fabric from stains. Its temperature
is kept at 102ºC. The main purpose of steamer is to provide conditions for
the fixation of the dyes stuff and chemicals on the fabric and give a
proper time for fixation.
The steam enters the REACTA dyeing steamer in perfectly saturated
condition. The steamer design and the positioning of the steam condition
monitoring ensure absolute absence of air in the steamer. Even minimal
deviations in steam feed are automatically corrected. Geometry and drive
system of the REACTA ensures crease free cloth run. The rollers are with
large diameters of 193 mm, and are individually driven by maintenance
free AC-motors. Very precise drive control is ensured via load-cell
equipped measuring rollers and frequency converters. Tension differences
caused by shrinking or stretching of the cloth in the steaming process are
equalized immediately.
There are steam heated lips (indirectly heated) at the entry of the fabric to
steamer. This serves as a seal for the steam and steam cannot escape from
this point. The ceiling of the steamer filled with glass wool is also
indirectly heated with steam to avoid dropping.
The steamer roof is heated; roof and front and back side are well
insulated. The water lock at the steamer exit is a critical part of equipment
for a successful process. The temperature is controlled via the water feed
and low water volume ensures constant process parameters.
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The REACTA Steamer has good access through windows and can be
cleaned easily.
The Benninger’s steamer at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is mainly used to
provide suitable conditions for the continuous fixation of vat, or reactive
dyes on cotton and polyester/cotton blends.
The operating principle is that the uniformly distributed dyes located
mainly at the fiber surface diffuse quickly into the interior of the cotton
fibers during treatment for 20 to 120 seconds in saturated steam.
Reactive dyes of the low-reactivity classes require treatment for 60 to 90
seconds at 102°C for optimum fixation.
Vat dyes require treatment in dry saturated steam at 102 to 105°C.
The steam must be completely free from air when fixing the leuco forms
of vat dyes.
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Washing Boxes
After steamer, the fabric is guided to the washing section. The washing
section of the Pad-Steam in the line # 2 at Kohinoor Dyeing consists of 9
Extracta washers. The liquor capacity in the washer is 1100L.
The EXTRACTA washer is constructed in such a way that the washing
process is divided into stages that can be repeated with accuracy. This
makes the whole washing process easier to follow it also makes it
amenable to calculation of fresh water throughput. In each of the separate
washing chambers the dirt or chemical liquor present in the cloth is
exchanged 50 to 80% for wash liquor, which is loaded commensurately
with dirt and chemicals. Entrainment of the contaminated liquor with this
cloth is prevented by the EXTRACTA roller.
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In the next chamber the liquor exchange is repeated but with much lower
dirt concentration in the wash liquor. The EXTRACTA washer has the
advantage that fresh water throughput can be easily calculated.
Minimal fresh water consumption leads to saving in water, effluent and
energy costs. Capital investment and operating costs determine the
economy of washing machines. The water consumption for a defined
washing effect is depending on the type and number of washing
compartments.
A crease-free fabric run in EXTRACTA washing compartment is
guaranteed through
• Large guide roll diameters and adapted roll spacing that prevent the
fabric from skewing and guarantee crease-free treatment from entry to
exit of the range
• Computer controlled tension force from
100–500 N with press rolls or,
200–600 N without press rolls
• Screw expanders with separate drive
• Free running outer bearings with minimal friction on
bath rolls (Self-aligning ball-bearings, life-time lubricated, with
carbon sliding ring seals)
upper rolls (Self-aligning ball-bearings; life-time lubricated, with
PTFE labyrinth seals)
press rolls (Self-aligning roller-bearings; life-time lubricated, with
PTFE labyrinth seals)
EXTRACTA washer is equipped with drive control via swiveling
compensators and load cells. Intermediate squeezers (pulling/squeezing
device) are controlled via swiveling compensator and frequency converter
in the next compartment. The upper roll single drive is controlled with a
separate frequency converter. For the washers that have a pulling/
squeezing device, the upper roller drive is controlled through a measuring
roll with a load cell.
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Load cell
For the washers without a pulling/ squeezing device, the upper roller
drive is controlled through a swiveling compensator of the following
compartment.
Angle detector of swiveling compensator for drive control
There is a counter flow system in all washers. First 4 washers have a
separate water supply and are connected to first heat exchanger placed at
the drive side of the machine near dosing station. Next 4 washers are
connected to a second heat exchanger placed beside. All the washers are
equipped with overflow valves, counter flow valves and drain valves.
These are all automatically controlled through pneumatic system.
Rollers in EXTRACA are extremely rigid and strong and due to the large
diameter of the roller, the creasing of the fabric is minimized. Each roller
is equipped with a special seal and bearing construction so that no
leakage takes place.
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There are stainless steel plates having alternating gates in the bottom of
each washer section which provide Counter current partitions for the
water flow. Due to the counter current flow, turbulence is enhanced so
efficient washing takes place.
The fabric is squeezed at the exit of each washer with a squeezing unit.
The top roller in squeezing unit is rubber covered while the bottom roller
is made up of stainless steel roller. At the exit of the 9th
washer there is a
high extraction squeezing unit to extract maximum of water. So that
minimum energy is consumed in drying cans. Each washer is equipped
with temperature sensor, level sensor, steam pressure control,
pneumatically operated steam valve.
To drive top rollers in each washing unit, there are three AC-motors.
There is single cloth threading system in each washer. Each washing
compartment has strip rollers installed with top rollers. Each washing
compartment is equipped with an intermediate squeezing unit. The
module of EXTRACTA in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is of plain EXTRACA
washer of the type E7. The cloth content of each washer is 20m. There
are two glass doors in a washer which provide good visibility and
accessibility to the fabric. Due to easy accessibility, the machine can be
cleaned easily. These glass doors have a special seal so that no leakage
takes place.
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First two washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals which are
being applied in trough of pad-steam padder. In 3rd
and 4th
washer
oxidation is done if required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is
done in 3rd
and 4th
washer. Further rinsing is carried out in next washers.
In 9th
washer acetic acid is added to control the pH of the fabric.
Drying Drums
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• At the last of Benninger Pad-Steam machine at Kohinoor Dyeing
Mills, there are three groups of vertically stacked drying cylinders
(made by WUMAG texroll) for the purpose of drying out the fabric
• Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool
cylinders.
• First two rollers in the first stack of drying rollers are Teflon
coated. Remaining 34 rollers are made up of stainless steel. Steam
is passed inside the cylinder through inlet pipe and the surface of
the cylinder becomes hot. The condensate is also collected from the
point of entrance of steam. There is a trap valves installed on each
condensate return pipe to separate the steam from the condensate.
Last two drums of the last stack of cans are water circulated from
inside to reduce the fabric temperature to normal. The water is fed
from one side and is drawn out from other side.
• There is a dancer installed after each stack of drying cans to
compensate for the tension in the fabric.
• There is a steam exhaust hood at the top of the stacks of drying
drums to exhaust the steam formed during the drying operation of
the fabric. The hood has filling of glass wool and is also steam
heated from inside to avoid from any chances of condensation of
the steam back on the fabric. There are three exhaust fans installed
above the hood to exhaust the steam.
• In each stack of drying rollers at Benninger’s pad-steam, there are
6 motor driven cylinders and remaining 6 are driven by pulling
force.
Outlet Section
Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The
batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing.
Outlet section consists of following main parts:
• Pull roll
• J-Scray
• Static charge eliminator
• Cloth guiders
• Winder
Block diagram of pad steam
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Brugman Pad-Steam
Main sections of this machine are
• Entry Section
• Cooling drums
• Padding Section
• Steamer
• Washing Boxes
• Drying Cylinders
• Exit Section
Inlet Section
Inlet consists of following parts;
o Batcher unit
o Pull roll system
o J-Scray
o Plaitor
o Tensioner rollers
o Cloth guiders
The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously
being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric
can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/
trolley change.
Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on
the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be
store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250
meters.
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There are two cooling drums after the scray. Fabric from scray flows
from these cooling rollers. At the Brugman Pad-Steam in Kohinoor
Dyeing Mills, these rollers are disconnected from water supply so we will
not discus them here.
Padding Section
Main parts included in this section are;
• Padder rollers (Kusters Swimming Roll technology)
• Trough
• Economizer rollers
• Feeding nozzles
• Level sensor
• Chiller
• Mixing and dosing station
• Hydraulic system
The fabric after passing the cooling drums is guided through guide rollers
into trough containing the dye liquor to impregnate the fabric.
According to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff made in the separate mixing
station is fed to the trough.
Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which
the chemical liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. There are
two dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is fed in the trough due to
gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot water or with 2% hydro
and caustic.
Capacity of the trough is 60L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh
water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding
temperature of 40o
C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of
the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling.
There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing
probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered
down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic
action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased
due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is
fed at intervals.
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There is a rod connected to the feed pipe from the dosing tanks. There are
small holes in this rod throughout the length of the padder trough. This
rod is connected to the trough and chemicals are fed through it.
There is mechanism for the lowering and raising of the trough. The
trough can be lowered for washing purposes. There is a drain pipe
attached to the trough to drain the exhausted liquor.
In Sulphur dyeing (on Pad-Steam-Line # 2), the fabric to be dyed is
stitched with the leading cloth and the leading fabric is passed the trough.
After that the trough is filled with dyestuff and chemical up to 55 to 60
liter. There are four economizer rollers (covered with soft rubber) in the
trough to provide under liquor squeezing of the fabric.
The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder
rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the
excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur. Kusters padder (installed
at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills) is the best solution for the LCR problem. The
center pressure at the padder is hydraulic while the pressure at the shafts
of the padder rollers is pneumatic.
There is a hydraulic system connected to the padder to provide the
pressurized oil for the pressure in the padder roller. There is a heat
exchanger in the hydraulic system. Chilled water from chiller exchanges
heat with the warm oil in the hydraulic system. This is to cool down the
temperature of the hydraulic oil so that its viscosity may not change and
hence provide even pressure across padder width and work at maximum
efficiency. A circulation pump then feeds it to the padder rollers.
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There are three knobs at the panel named as L, C and R to adjust the
pressure at left, center and right respectively. Central pressure is provided
by the management and the operator adjusts the pressure of left and
center accordingly so that no LCR problem is seen in the dyed fabric.
This pressure adjustment is called as tuning. A graph is provided in the
panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right
sides of padder with respect to central pressure. But this is not definite
because the fabric may have varying absorbency in LCR. So tuning is
done to avoid this problem.
Mechanism of Kusters swimming rollers
It is based on a mechanism where the roller floats on a hydraulic cushion.
Oil pressure applied internally over the full width of the bowl counters
the deflection of the outer shell. The oil pressure is directed towards the
mangle nip and the oil occupies one half of the space inside the bowl.
There is a danger that the deflecting internal mandrel will foul the internal
surface of the swimming roller. A graph is therefore supplied with each
machine, showing the permitted settings of air pressure to the bowl shafts
and the internal oil pressure.
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The outer boundaries of the polygon must not be breached; otherwise
there is a danger of mechanical damage
The graph is specified to that particular machine and, although it is
located on the control panel of that machine for all to see, over a period of
time it tends to become contaminated with dirty oil and dyestuff,
rendering it almost illegible. It is thus a wise precaution to keep another
copy.
The operation of the hydraulic chamber and the bearing pressure can
deflect every S roller positively or negatively, or allow the flexible line of
a conventional roller to be followed whilst applying even pressure.
For example, if we have fixed the central pressure at 2 bar and then we
adjust the left and right pressure by following the graph provided at
panel. Then initial running of the fabric is done and fabric is checked for
LCR variation at the exit of the machine. If there is no difference in LCR
then it is ok. But if LCR problem is occurring then tuning of the left and
right pressure must be done.
The Kusters padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup
should be 60 to 80% (depending upon the shade depth and quality).
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Steamer
The fabric leaving the padding section enters into the steamer section.
This is a Tight-strand roller steamer.
There are steam heated lips (indirectly heated) at the entry of the fabric to
steamer. This serves as a seal for the steam and steam cannot escape from
this point. The ceiling of the steamer filled with glass wool is also
indirectly heated with steam to avoid dropping. Brugman Dyeing Steamer
is completely insulated by 80mm of insulation material, clad by stainless
steel sheets.
The fabric after passing through different guide rollers then comes to the
main steaming section. There are three dancer rollers to compensate for
the tension in the fabric, one at entry to steamer, one in the middle of the
steamer and one at the exit of the steamer. At the exit side there is a water
lock which serves as a seal for the steam to exit. This water lock is
temperature controlled and also serves to cool down the dyes when
necessary.
There is an exhaust pipe for condensate in bottom of steamer entry side.
In the Steamer, temperature required for the fixation of dyes is given to
the fabric. This temperature is achieved by fully saturated steam. This
saturated steam is supplied by steam saturator. Prior to entry into the
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steamer, the steam is saturated in a steam conditioning device. There is a
controlled device for controlling the steam entering into the steamer. This
helps to avoid loss of energy.
Steam conditioning unit
This saturator mixes steam and water under pressure. The purpose of
using saturated steam is that the chemicals used for developing should not
dry on the surface of fabric preventing fabric from stains. Its temperature
is kept at 102ºC. The main purpose of steamer is to provide conditions for
the fixation of the dyes stuff and chemicals on the fabric and give a
proper time for fixation.
Brugman dyeing steamer
This is mainly used to provide suitable conditions for the continuous
fixation of vat, Sulphur or reactive dyes on cotton and polyester/cotton
blends.
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The operating principle is that the uniformly distributed dyes located
mainly at the fiber surface diffuse quickly into the interior of the cotton
fibers during treatment for 20 to 120 seconds in saturated steam.
Reactive dyes of the low-reactivity classes require treatment for 60 to 90
seconds at 102°C for optimum fixation.
Vat or Sulphur dyes require treatment in dry saturated steam at 102 to
105°C.
The steam must be completely free from air when fixing the leuco forms
of vat or Sulphur dyes.
Washing Boxes
After steamer, the fabric is guided to the washing section. The washing
section of the Pad-Steam in the line # 2 at Kohinoor Dyeing consists of 9
Brubo-Matic washers. The liquor capacity in the washer is 1100L.
First to four washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals which are
being applied in trough of pad steamer. In 5th
, 6th
washer, oxidation is
done if required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is done in 5th
,
6th
washers. Otherwise soaping is done in 8th
washer. In 9th
washer acetic
acid is added to control the pH of the fabric.
There is a counter flow system in all washers. First 4 washers have a
separate water supply and are connected to first heat exchanger placed at
the drive side of the machine near dosing station. Next 4 washers are
connected to a second heat exchanger placed beside. All the washers are
equipped with overflow valves, counter flow valves and drain valves.
These are all automatically controlled through pneumatic system.
Each washer has 25m cloth content. The rollers in the washing unit have
a diameter of 200mm. these rollers are ‘foam’ filled from inside (patented
rollers by Brugman) and thus are extremely rigid and strong and due to
the large diameter of the roller, the creasing of the fabric is minimized.
Each roller is equipped with a special seal and bearing construction so
that no leakage takes place. The seal is constructed of a flexible mounted
seal ring (high polymer composite) and spring loaded SS counter ring.
This special seal offers extremely low friction during roller rotation.
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There are stainless steel plates having alternating gates in the bottom of
each washer section which provide Counter current partitions for the
water flow. Due to the counter current flow, turbulence is enhanced so
efficient washing takes place.
The fabric is squeezed at the exit of each washer with a squeezing unit of
30kN. The diameter of top rubber covered roller in the squeezing unit is
265mm with a Journal diameter of 60mm. while the diameter f the
bottom stainless steel roller in this squeezing unit is 250mm with a
Journal diameter of 60mm. At the exit of the 9th
washer there is a
‘Unipad’ high extraction squeeze unit of 50N/mm. The diameter of each
of rubber covered top roller and stainless steel bottom roller in this
squeezing unit has a diameter of 300mm with a journal diameter of
90mm. Each washer is equipped with temperature sensor, level sensor,
steam pressure control, pneumatically operated steam valve
There is single cloth threading system in each washer. There are two
glass doors in a washer which provide good visibility and accessibility to
the fabric. Due to easy accessibility, the machine can be cleaned easily.
These glass doors have a special seal so that no leakage takes place.
Drying Drums
• At the last of Brugman Pad-Steam machine at Kohinoor Dyeing
Mills, there are three groups of vertically stacked drying cylinders
for the purpose of drying out the fabric. The frame of each stack
consists of I-beams with interconnections.
• The diameter of each cylinder is 800mm.
• There are inspection holes and vacuum valves on the sides of the
cylinders
• Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool
cylinders.
• These cylinders are steam circulated from inside. The operation
side of a stack has a vertical steam distribution pipe with a T-piece
at the upper end. This piece is connected to the steam supply and a
safety valve. The distribution pipe has a steam trap at the bottom
end. There is a stainless steel flexible steam hose connected to each
individual cylinder. This steam hose has a long life. There is a
‘Johnson’ rotary joint through which steam is fed inside the
cylinder and the condensate returns. ‘Johnson’ rotary joint is a
specially designed joint through which no leakage of steam or
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condensate takes place. The condensate is returned back through
condensate-return pipes.
• First 4 rollers in the first stack of drying rollers are Teflon coated.
But fabric is not being threaded from first two rollers as the surface
of these rollers is contaminated with fluff and dyes. Threading is
started from lower two Teflon coated rollers. Remaining 32 rollers
are made up of stainless steel. Steam is passed inside the cylinder
through inlet pipe and the surface of the cylinder becomes hot. The
condensate is also collected from the point of entrance of steam.
There is a trap valves installed on each condensate return pipe to
separate the steam from the condensate.
• There is a dancer installed after each stack of drying cans to
compensate for the tension in the fabric.
• There is a steam exhaust hood at the top of the stacks of drying
drums to exhaust the steam formed during the drying operation of
the fabric. The hood has filling of glass wool and is also steam
heated from inside to avoid from any chances of condensation of
the steam back on the fabric. There are three exhaust fans installed
above the hood to exhaust the steam.
• Each stack of drying rollers at Brugman’s pad-steam is driven by
one AC-motor at the drive-side of the machine. Drive mechanism
is belt-pulley system.
• Last two drums of the last stack of cans are water circulated from
inside to reduce the fabric temperature to normal. The water is fed
into the cylinder through ‘Johnson’ rotary joint and slightly hot
water is also retrieved from the same point.
• How much drying is required, depends upon
Initial moisture
Fabric weight
Machine speed
Residual moisture
• Actual drying capacity depends upon
Machine speed
Number of active drying cylinders; it can be
controlled by shutting-off pairs of drying cylinders
Steam supply; can be controlled by measurement of
fabric temperature and moisture content or the
temperature of the condensate.
Outlet Section
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Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The
batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing.
Outlet section consists of following main parts:
• Pull roll
• J-Scray
• Static charge eliminator
• Cloth guiders
• Winder
Block diagram of Brugman’s pad steam
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APPLICATION PROCESSES
Various methods depending upon type of fabric, type of dyes and their
interaction and properties can be applied.
In Kohinoor Dyeing Mills following application processes are being used.
PDPS
PDC
PS
DYEING OF 100 % COTTON FABRICS
At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills; Reactive, Vat or Sulphur dyestuff is applied on 100
% cotton fabrics depending upon customer requirements.
Dyeing With Reactive Dyes
Pad-Dry-Chemical Pad-Steam method
For dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics with reactive dyes first the dyes and
alginate solution are padded onto the fabric at the thermosol padder. The fabric
is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a temperature ranging from 700-1000
oC. The fabric is then led to the thermosol chambers at the temperature ranging
from 110-150 oC. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM, where it
is initially padded with the dye fixing agents and auxiliaries (NaCl, Na2CO3,
NaOH, Detergent and wetting agent) and then the fabric is led to the steamer
where fabric is steamed for 60-90 sec. After that the fabric is washed at the
washer first with normal then hot water at 80-95 oC. At last the fabric is dried
at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form.
PADDING
WITH DYE
SOLUTION
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
RINSING,
SOAPING,
NEUTRALIZING
STEAMING
PADDING
WITH
FIXATION
CHEMICALS
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
Pad-Dry-Cure method
100 % cotton fabrics can also be dyed with reactive dyes by Pad-Dry-Cure
method. For this process, the dyes along with all auxiliary chemicals (NaCl,
Na2CO3, NaOH, alginate and wetting agent) are padded onto the fabric at the
thermosol padder. The fabric is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a
temperature ranging from 700-1000 oC. The fabric is then led to the series of
thermosol chambers for drying and fixation of the dyestuff. The drying
temperature at the first thermosol chamber can be 120 to 135 oC and that of the
last can be 165-170 oC depending upon the fabric quality and type of the dye
and shade depth required. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM,
where the fabric is not steamed but just washed at the washers first with normal
then hot water at 80-95 oC. At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and
then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form.
PADDING
WITH DYES
AND
CHEMICALS
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
RINSING,
SOAPING,
NEUTRALIZING
CURING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
Dyeing With Vat Dyes
For dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics with vat dyes first the dyes, urea and
alginate solution are padded onto the fabric at the thermosol padder. The fabric
is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a temperature ranging from 700-1000
oC. The fabric is then led to the thermosol chambers at the temperature ranging
from 110-150 oC. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM, where it
is initially padded with the vat dyes developing solution (Sodium Sulphite and
Caustic Soda) and then the fabric is led to the steamer where fabric is steamed
for 60-90 sec. After that the fabric is led to the washers, where at first the fabric
is oxidized with NaOH and H2O2 (H2O2 for dark shades) after that the fabric
is washed with normal then hot water at 80-95 oC. At the last washer the fabric
is neutralized with acetic acid (along with some buffer). At last the fabric is
dried at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form.
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
PADDING
WITH DYES
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
COLD
WASHING
STEAMING
PADDING
DEVELOPING
CHEMICALS
OXIDATION
OF
DYESTUFF
HOT
WASHING
NEUTRALIZING
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
Dyeing With Sulphur Dyes
Pad-Steam process
In this process, the dyes with other additive auxiliaries are padded on the fabric
at the Pad-Steam padder. Padding is done at room temperature and pick-up is
adjusted about 70-80 %. Fixation of the dyestuff is done in an atmosphere of
saturated steam (102oC) at Steamer for 1-2 min. After that the fabric is led to
the washers. Initial washers are for cold rinsing. At the forth washer oxidation
process is done. Soaping is being done in 5th
and 6th
washer. 7th
washer is for
rinsing purposes while neutralization is being done in 8th
washer with acetic
acid. At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and then wound on the
batcher or stored in pile form.
PADDING
WITH DYES
AND
CHEMICALS
STEAMING
RINSING
COLD
RINSING,
SOAPING,
NEUTRALIZING
OXIDATION
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
DYEING OF POLYESTER/COTTON BLENDED
FABRICS
At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills; Pigment, Disperse-Reactive or Disperse-Vat
dyestuff is applied on PC blended fabrics depending upon customer
requirements.
Dyeing With Disperse-Reactive Combination
Two-bath process is used in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills Ltd.
Dyeing of PC blended fabrics is completed in two steps.
• Dyeing of Polyester portion
• Dyeing of cotton portion
Dyeing of Polyester Portion
Disperse dyes are used to dye polyester portion. The process would be Pad-
Dry-Cure. First the disperse dye is padded along with other auxiliary chemicals
(Dispersing agent, Anti-Migrating agent, Anti-Foaming agent, Acetic acid
etc.). The fabric is dried at IR Pre-dryers and intermediate drying chambers
while fixation of the dyestuff is done in the curing chambers at a temperature of
180-230 oC. After that Reduction-Clearance of the fabric is done at Pad-Steam
where RC chemicals are padded at the padder and washing out of the extra
chemicals and dyestuff is done in series of washers.
PADDING
WITH DYES
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
WASHING STEAMING
PADDING
REDUCTION
CLEARANCE
CHEMICALS
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
Fabric back to
Pad-Thermosol
Entry
University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan
Internship Report
Dyeing of cotton portion
At the second step, the cotton contents are dyed with reactive dyes by using
Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam or Pad-Dry-Cure process at the same conditions used for
dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics.
PADDING
WITH DYE
SOLUTION
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
RINSING,
SOAPING,
NEUTRALIZING
STEAMING
PADDING
WITH
FIXATION
CHEMICALS
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
PDPS PROCESS
PADDING
WITH DYES
AND
CHEMICALS
PRE-DRYING
AT IR
CHAMBERS
DRYING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
RINSING,
SOAPING,
NEUTRALIZING
CURING AT
THERMOSOL
MACHINE
FINAL
DRYING AT
DRYING
CANS
PDC PROCESS
Dyeing With Disperse-Vat Combination
Two methods can be employed
• One Bath
• Two Bath
One bath process
In the one bath process both disperse and vat dyestuffs are padded onto the
fabric at the Pad-Thermosol padder. Fixation of the Disperse dyes is done in
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Kohinoor Internship Report

  • 1. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report INTERNSHIP REPORT Kohinoor dyeing mills A Division of Kohinoor Weaving Mills (L.t.d) Submitted to: GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Kohinoor dyeing mills Submitted by: Azhar Hussain Shahid Sheikh Arslan Shaukat Muhammad Ayyoob Omer Ali Bhatti B.Sc. Textile Engineering With specialization in Wet Processing 7th semester (Final Year) Date of submission: 12-08-2008 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Bahauddin Zakariya University Multan.
  • 2. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report
  • 3. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Dedicated to Mr. Hafiz Muhammad Ali Jaan Manager Dyeing And Mr. Amir Abbas Sherazi One of our favorite teachers and a good friend of us
  • 4. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report ACKNOWLEDGMENT None, however great can lay claim to absolute originality in any branch of knowledge. No one can deny it. Every one is indebted to their precursors in the particular field in which they are working. We are indebted to many individuals within our branch of knowledge and outside it. At first, we are grateful to Almighty ALLAH, The most Beneficent and Merciful, Who gave us mind to think and all physical abilities to work out problems and obstacles faced in life, and for giving us enough courage and commitment to complete this internship successfully. At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, we found people very cooperative. During our internship we learnt a lot and found it as an excellent learning place. We are very thankful to Mr. Asad-Ullah (GM Production) and Hafiz Muhammad Ali Jaan sb. (Dyeing Manager) who allowed us to work under their supervision. At this place I would also like to thank Ms. Mumtaz Zia (Manager HR Dyeing) for her guidance and warm support throughout the internship period. We would also like to thank Mr. Nouman Shamsi (Manager Finishing), Mr. Kamran Bashir (Manager Lab.), Mr. Nasir (AM Bleaching), Mr. Naveed (AM Finishing), , Mr. Nouman (DM Dyeing for helping us through thick and thin and guiding us in best possible way. We would specially like to thank Mr. Umer, Mr. Rehan, and Mr. Naveed Akbar for taking keen interest to help us out in problems. With best wishes and regards, Azhar Hussain Sheikh Arslan Shaukat Muhammad Ayyoob Omer Ali Bhatti B.Sc Textile Engineering, 7th Semester (2005-2009), University College of Textile Engineering, BZU, Multan
  • 5. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report PREFACE Bahauddin Zakariya University is one of the leading universities of the country. University College of Textile Engineering is the heart of this University. This institute is rendering invaluable services to the nation Pakistan by producing outstanding graduate engineers who have aims to change the world. We ourselves feel proud as being a part of that superb college and of our teachers because of their excellent style of teaching and vast knowledge, as well as their scholastic approach. Preparing students to face the world confidently and courageously, University College of Textile Engineering arranges an internship Programs during summer vacations. The purpose of this program is to give practical exposure to our field of studies. It is also helpful for understanding the organizational environment and to deal with the professionals. For that , We joined Kohinoor Dyeing Mills Limited, which is one of the largest textiles Export Company in Pakistan. During our internship span of 45 days we got chance to work in all the departments of Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. We tried best to include every thing which we learned and observed here. This report details the technical and the managerial aspects. This report is prepared to provide the reader with an overview of Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. Azhar Husaain Shahid Sheikh Arslan Shaukat Muhammad Ayyoob Omer Ali Bhatti
  • 6. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report AREAS OF WORK DURING OUR INTERNSHIP During our internship at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, we worked on the following areas of different departments 1. GREIGE INPUT Process Flow Inspection Procedures Introduction Of Faults And Samples Issuance Lab Testing 2. PRETREATMENT Process Flow Machine & Steamers Specifications Block diagrams of Machine Procedures For Each Process And Machine Chemical Recipes Testing and Chemical Titration 3. DYEING Process Flow and Machine Specifications Block Diagrams Of Machines Procedures For Each Process And Machine Machine Conditions Testing + Online Testing Process Types And Conditions 4. FINISHING Process Flow + Machine Specifications And Usage Line Diagrams Of Machine Chemicals And Their Usage+ Chemical Making Machine Conditions Testing + Online Testing 5. QUALITY CONTROL AND R&D LAB Online Inspection Online Testing 6. FOLDING Inspection system and Inspection Procedure Packing & Labeling and Storage
  • 7. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report GGrreeiigg DDeeppaa ee IInnppuutt rrttmmeenntt
  • 8. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report GREY INPUT DEPARTMENT It is the first department in the textile-processing mill. It is called Greige Department because greige fabric (from weaving mill) is first brought in this department. As the cloth is received from weaving mills, it is given a “lot” number and other data in the receiving register. A computer record of the received cloth is made and the cloth is stored according to the lot number. When Production and Planning Department requires the specific quality and type of fabric, the desired quality and type of fabric is issued to the production department. TYPES OF PACKAGES The woven fabric comes in three types of packages which are as follows; 1. Bale form 2. Roll form These types of packages differ in length, shape and type of packing. The outermost layer of the packing is composed of polypropylene sheet and under it is polythene sheet. INSPECTION OF GREY CLOTH Before the loom state or greige cloth is set for processing it has to go through a number of inspections which would help to overcome any defects and faults caused by inefficient weaving or mishandling of fabric during its course of life from Weaving shed to Processing zone. The greige cloth is inspected at two places 1. In weaving unit after weaving 2. In processing unit before processing The purpose of inspections is the detection of faults and their removal (incase the faults are mendable) caused by inefficient spinning or weaving and mishandling of the fabric during the period from weaving to processing zone.
  • 9. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report It also help to estimate the fabric quality and grade and it also assists to consider the possible difficulties, which may come during the processing of the fabric. DEFECTS IN GREIGE FABRIC The defects in the greige or loom state fabric can be divided into the following categories. 1) Spinning faults 2) Weaving faults 3) Mechanical faults 4) Handling faults 5) Mending Faults Faults can also be divided according to their mend ability. 1. Mendable Faults 2. Non-mendable faults SPINNING FAULTS These are the faults, which are caused due to improper spinning e.g. Fat yarn Slubby yarn Thick yarn Thin yarn Uneven linear density Count variation Over or under twisted Mixed yarn Contaminated yarn WEAVING FAULTS The faults in the fabric, which are caused due to inefficient weaving Short pick Miss pick Double pick Short end Loose end Reed marks
  • 10. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Starting mark. HANDLING FAULTS These faults become the part of fabric during its weaving, transportation and storage e.g. Water stains Color stains Oil stains Soil stains Holes MENDING FAULTS Hanging thread Mending Mark Course pick MECHANICAL FAULTS Temple mark Oil stain Oily yarn Selvedge defect Reed cut Let-off bar Loose weft (slub) PURPOSE OF GREIGE DEPARTMENT The purposes of the greige department are 1. Receiving 2. Inspection 3. Storage 4. Issuance Initially the fabric from all customers received here. Before it is stored, inspection is done and results from QC Lab are considered. If the inspection results of greige and quality control lab are satisfactory then it is stocked by given its all identifications, i.e., lot no., bin no. type of fabric total no of meters etc. and then according to the queries from PPC, fabric is issued.
  • 11. Internship Report University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan MACHINES IN GREIGE DEPARTMENT Inspection Frames No. of machines: 16 Rolling Machine No. of machines: 02 RECEIVING OF FABRIC First the fabric conducts into greige department, gate pass and list of packing is provided by the supplier for greige department. This list contains the whole information about fabric inside packing. It will be in the form of bales, rolls and pallet. Then bales and roles are counted measured and tally with the packing list. After clearance bin and lot no are allotted. RECEIVING REPORT Receiving report prepared against packing list is sent to marketing department. Here contract no is given to this report and sent back to greige department. SUPPLIERS OF FABRIC FOR KDML Lot no. Contract no. Quality Width Weave Blend Supplier No. of B/R Lot Length Ahmad HassanKWML Suraj Cotton MillsAhmed Fine Hamid TextileRoomi Fabrics Fazal RehmanDimond Fabrics Ltd. Qamar Fabrics IMMI GarmentsFazal Cloth Shafi TexelSamin Textiles Fatima EnterprisesICC Textile Sapphire Textiles Mills Sapphire Textile Quetta Textile Mills Ltd.
  • 12. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report PROCESS FLOW Merchandiser Customer Procurement Manager Sample From W i Greige department Q.C Lab. Customer satisfaction Order of Fabric Receiving Greige Department Whole Inspection Whole Treatment Prepared Sample to Customer Accepted or Rejected Lot No. and Bin No. Given Inspection Rolling Send to Stock PPC Issuance of Fabric as per PPUnrolling Status Card Pretreatment Q.C Lab.
  • 13. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report SAMPLING When a lot is received in greige, samples are taken for Q.C lab and one for greige record also. No. of samples taken depends on type, quality and length of the fabric received. INSPECTION The fabric comes in KDML is A grade as a whole so Inspection of about 10 to 15% of whole fabric takes place in greige department. Inspection percentage may vary depending upon the quantity of fabric. If the amount of fabric is less then inspection percentage may increases from 10% to 50%. There are five inspection frames out of which 3 in working form. The main purpose of inspection is to count faults in type of fabric. In Kohinoor Dyeing Mills 4 point grading system is used for inspection of fabric. 4 Point System Length of fault Points 1-3 inches 1 3-6 inches 2 6-9 inches 3 9- above 4 This is called four point American systems. This system is considered as a best grading system all over the world. It was developed to create an understanding between customer and supplier. Average Point: Average point is calculated by following formula. (Total Points) X (3937) Total Average Points Per 100 Meter2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width) (Total Points) X 3600 Total Average Points Per 100 Yards2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width) Based on above calculation inspection report is prepared. If fabric contains fault less then 15 or equal to 15 faults /100m2 then it
  • 14. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report considers as ok or pass. If 18 faults/100m2 are detected in fabric then it is under discussion. If more then 18 points are found/100m2 then it is rejected and tagged as hold or rejected. Inspection frame Daily Inspection Report Then daily inspection report is made in which total fabric inspected, total faults, faults per 100m2 , rejection or acceptance of fabric in the whole day is written and then feed it into the computer. STORAGE OF FABRIC Re-Rolling After inspection, the whole fabric is re-rolled and put in the respective bin. Storage conditions Fabric must be kept in dry place and away from rain, tog, acid, base, oil, and all other fiber damaging material. Storage Capacity Storage capacity of department is 6 to 7 lack meters. Bales or roles are placed up to 7 feet height approximately. Identification If we want to find any type of fabric we have to see the stock report. On the wall bin number and in front of each lot its lot
  • 15. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report number shade total meters etc. (STATUS CARD) are attached, so that it is identified easily. Status Card It is attached at one bale or roll in front of whole lot. It contains the lot number, construction (quality), and number of pieces, total meter, selvage type, party name, or textile mill name. Production planning (P.P.) Production planning comes from PPC department to greige department. It tells about the construction ,lot number, number of meters etc. so, according to PPC lot is taken out, then roles are un- rolled and fabric is stitched and loaded on trolleys having an identity number. During stitching keep in mind that stitching of different rolls should be on the same side so, front to front, and back to back. Stock Report It contains the whole information related to stock in greige department. It tells us the total number of lot, types of construction, weave type, contract number, supplier, total bales and roles, meters etc. ISSUANCE According to PPC the fabric is issued. Daily issuance report contains the whole issuance record of the day. It also shows the balance and then it is fed in the computer, at the end side of report C or O is written which means commercial or own respectively. Then fabric is send to pretreatment department with its route card which contains the whole information of process which should be done on fabric. Unrolling Fabric from the store is un rolled with the unrolling machine in the trolley, before issuance. Stitching Procedure Stitching machine is used for this purpose. Two yarns are used for stitching in this stitching machine. During stitching keep in mind that front of fabric will stitch on the same side of other fabric. Also on every fabric piece, its quality and quantity is written by textile marker. Its ink is not removed during pretreatment process.
  • 16. Internship Report University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan DDyyeeiinngg
  • 17. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Dye: Dyes are colored compounds which are absorbed or adsorbed by the fiber from a solution or suspension where they are subsequently fixed and are thus used for the coloration of textiles. All dyes have following basic elements Chromophore: It is the color giving element in dyes for producing color. Colorants are sometimes classified on the basis of their chief chromophore, e.g. azo dyes contain the chromophore (-N=N-). The most important chromophores are azo, carbonyl, methane, anthraquinone and nitro groups. Auxochrome: This is the second most important group in constitution of dyes; which is responsible for increasing intensity of color. Common auxochromes include hydroxyl (OH-) group and amino group. Chromogen: A chemical compound that is either coloured or can be made colored by the attachment of suitable substituents is called as chromogen. The chromophore and the auxochrome(s) are part of the chromogen. Some Terms Used In Dyeing Affinity: The quantitative expression of substantivity is called as affinity. It is the difference between the chemical potential of the dye in its standard state in the fiber and the corresponding chemical potential in the dye bath. Affinity is usually expressed in joules (or calories) per mole. Substantivity: It is the attraction between a substrate and a dye or other substance under the precise conditions of test whereby the latter is selectively extracted from the application medium by the substrate.
  • 18. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Based on Application Direct dyes Reactive dyes Sulphur dyes Basic dyes Acid dyes Azoic dyes Mordant dyes Natural & regenerated cellulose Cotton, Viscose rayon) Natural & Regenerated Cellulose Natural Protein/Synthetic (Nylon) Disperse dyes Vat dyes Pigments Natural and regenerated cellulose Natural Protein (Wool & Silk) Man-made (Acrylic) Natural Protein (Silk/wool/Mohair) Man-made (Nylon) Natural and regenerated cellulose Natural Protein specifically Wool Acrylic & Nylon Man-made Specifically Polyester Natural & regenerated cellulose Mostly for cellulose Classification of Dyes Dyes can be classified in three categories • Based on Application Properties • Based on Ionic nature • Based on Solubility in Water
  • 19. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Based on Ionic structure Anionic Dyes Cationic Dyes Non-ionic Dyes Direct dyes Reactive dyes Sulphur dyes Vat dyes Acid dyes Azoic dyes Mordant dyes Basic dyes Disperse dyes Pigments Based on Solubility in Water Water Soluble Dyes Water Insoluble Dyes Direct dyes Reactive dyes Basic dyes Acid dyes Azoic dyes Mordant dyes Disperse dyes Vat dyes Sulphur dyes Pigments
  • 20. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Solubilizing groups used in dye molecules
  • 21. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Introduction of Some Dye Classes Reactive Dyes These dyes are water soluble and are anionic in nature. These dyes are used for dyeing of cellulosics and modified reactive dyes can be used on wool, silk, nylon etc. These dyes have good to excellent fastness properties and form covalent bong with the fiber. Basic Structure of Reactive Dyes There are many reactive groups that have been used in the manufacture of reactive dyes but most reactive dyes have the structural features, represented diagrammatically in Figure 1 and in the example of the dye CI Reactive Red 1 in Figure. Structural Features of a Reactive Dye • S is one or more solubilizing groups. • C is the chromophore of the dye. • B is a bridging group. • R is the reactive group. • X is a leaving group. Typical Components of a Reactive Dye (CI Reactive Red 1) Some or all of these features may be present more than once in the dye molecule, as in the case of bi- or poly-functional reactive dyes.
  • 22. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report The solubilizing groups are usually sulphonic acids and they typically range in number from one to four, depending on the starting materials used for the synthesis of the dye, the overall size of the dye molecule and the intended application method. Where high substantivity (the attraction between the dye and a substrate) for the fibre is desirable (e.g. in batch- wise exhaustion) a low number of solubilizing groups will be present within the dye structure; the reverse is found where low substantivity is required, for example, in continuous processes such as pad-bake. It is possible to use almost any chromophore group in the reactive dye class. The only structural features required are at least one sulphonic acid group to ensure adequate water solubility and a site that a bridging group (such as an amino group) can bond to in order to link in the reactive group. Therefore, reactive ranges can incorporate, for example, mono- azo, di-azo, metallised mono- and dis-azo, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine chromogens. Bridging groups attach the reactive group to the chromophore, but are not always necessary. Typical bridging groups are amino (-NH-), substituted amino and amide linkages (-NHCO-). The bridging group can bear some influence on the reactivity, substantivity and stability of the reactive dye. Relative Reactivity of Major Reactive Groups REACTIVE GROUPS Dichlorotriazine: These dyes are highly reactive and can be readily fixed to cellulosic materials by a pad batch dyeing or by a batch-wise method at 30- 40oC.These dyes are extremely suitable for bright dyeings but less satisfactory for deep tertiary hues. Such dyes are stable in neutral solution at ambient temperature, but subject to hydrolytic attack by hydroxide ions at an alkaline pH. A weakness with certain Dichlorotriazine dyes is that under acidic conditions the dye fibre bond is broken by acid-catalysed hydrolysis, leading to deficiencies in fastness to washing or to acid perspiration.
  • 23. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Difluorochloropyrimidine: Dyeing temperatures for optimal fixation of these dyes are 40-50oC. The dye-fibre bond formed by reaction of cellulose with the highly reactive difluorochloropyrimidine system is more stable in acid conditions than that of the Dichlorotriazine system, but it does tend to undergo oxidative cleavage under the influence of light exposure in the presence of peroxy compounds. Monofluorotriazine: A fluorine atom is the leaving group in this system and they are therefore more reactive than the monochlorotriazine systems. Dichloroquinoxaline: This type of dye has one reactive group and an amide bridging link between the chromogen and the reactive system. Optimal fixation can be achieved by batch-wise dyeing at 50oC. The reactivity of this system is much higher than that of the corresponding dichlropyrimidine dyes and is comparable with that of the dichlorotriazine and difluoropyrimidine dyes. These dyes are readily hydrolysed under acidic conditions. Vinylsuphone or sulphatoethyl-sulphone: These dyes are intermediate in reactivity and are used in a number of batch wise and continuous processes. They can be used between 40oC and 60Oc depending on the pH. They tend to have low substantivity and the dye-fibre bonds are at their weakest under alkali conditions but this low substantivity makes washing-off easy. Monochlorotriazine: These dyes are of course less reactive than dichlorotriazine dyes and the monofluorotriazine dyes and require more energetic reaction conditions; therefore 80oC and pH 10.5 or even pH 11 are typically necessary for batch-wise application for efficient fixation on cellulosic fibres. Trichloropyrimidine: This is a pyrimidine unit with three chlorine atoms. The reactive system is made less active by the nitrogen atoms in the heterocyclic ring system and thus dyes of this type require batch wise application at the boil for fixation to the fibre. Dichloropyrimidine dyes are even less reactive than the trichloropyrimidine dyes.
  • 24. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Classification of Reactive Dyes Reactive dyes are versatile and allow a variety of different approaches for controlling the rate of dye adsorption, degree of dye migration and dye fixation. Salt additions, temperature variations and alkali additions are used alone or in combination to control the dye adsorption and fixation. Dyes are therefore often classified according to the most important controlling parameters. Classification by Application Method Classification Description Examples Cold brand dyes or “M” dyes Batch wise dyeing temperatures, for optimal fixation, of 30-400C. They are very reactive and show high fastness properties. These dyes require alkaline conditions for application. The required pH for dyeing is pH12.5. Caustic soda or sodium phosphate is required to achieve this pH. Dichlorotriazine, Difluorochloro pyrimidine, Dichloro quinoxaline Warm or medium brand dyes Recommended dyeing temperature of these dyes for the maximum fixation for exhaust dyeing is 50-600C. The required pH for these dyes is pH 11.5 Vinyl sulphone, Sulphonamide, Monofluorotriazine groups Hot brand dyes The dyeing temperature for this type of dye is 800C or more. Monochlorotraizine High Exhaust or “HE dyes” (a sub-set of “Hot”) Bis (monochlorotriazin e) or Bis (mono nicotinotriazine)
  • 25. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Classification by Parameters Classification Description Examples Alkali controllable reactive dyes These dyes have optimal temperatures of fixation between 300C and 600C. They are characterized by relatively low exhaustion in neutral salt solution, before alkali is added. They have high reactivity and it is necessary to be careful when adding alkali to achieve level dyeing, preferably at a controlled dosage rate. Dichlrotriazine, Difluorochloro pyrimidine, Dichloro quinoxaline and Vinyl sulphone reactive system Salt controllable reactive dyes Dyes in this group show optimal fixation in the range 80-1000C and comparatively exhibit high exhaustion in neutral pH, so it is important to add salt carefully to avoid uneven dyeing. Dyes with these properties typically have low reactivity systems, but they are sufficiently reactive for fixation at 800C or lower by batch wise application. Temperature is still important though and varies by reactive group. Trichloropyrimid ine, Monochlorotriazi ne or Monofluorotriazi ne reactive system Temperature controllable reactive dyes This group is represented by those dyes that react with cellulose at temperatures above 1000C in the absence of alkali although if desired they can be applied under the same conditions. Dyes in this group have self levelling characteristics so there is no need to use auxiliary products to facilitate level dyeing. Bis (Mononicotinotri azine) reactive system When selecting a dye it is important to know the reactive groups present in a particular brand. Typical brand names for certain reactive systems are therefore given in Table on next page.
  • 26. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Some Important Points in Dyeing: • The efficiency and therefore the cost effectiveness of dyeing can be greatly enhanced by knowing the type of dye being used, its compatibility with other dyes and the ideal conditions under which it should be applied (again). A reputable dye supplier should provide all this information to a dyer, although it is best practice to make systematic checks according to an agreed protocol. • It is also necessary to know and continually monitor the quality of dye being received. This enables the dyer to make adjustments to the recipe to ensure the correct shade is achieved. Not doing this can result in the need to re-shade, which can be costly. Choosing less expensive dyes often means that the quality is poor or variable, which can ultimately result in the overall cost of dyeing increasing due to the need to use more dye, or to re-dye or re-shade. • Fixation levels can be optimized and right first time dyeings can be achieved through an understanding of the dyes being used, the chemistry involved and having appropriate control over the factors influencing dye exhaustion and dye fixation levels. Choosing appropriate and compatible dyes for any particular shade is one of the most important factors. • If the dyer is not satisfied with the quality of the dyes they receive they should discuss it with the dye supplier. In the longer term, it may be beneficial and cost effective to use a more reputable dye supplier that provides dyes of consistently good quality as this reduces the need to alter recipes or to re-shade. • Dyestuff manufacturers should also be able to provide information that is of use to the dye manager regarding the dyes that they supply. Such information would include the:
  • 27. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Recommended trichromate for each dye range; this is the standard, most compatible red, yellow and blue dye for the range. Recommended application conditions for each dye range: application time-temperature profile; salt concentration; and pH (for covalent fixation). Fastness data for each dye: light-fastness at 1:1 and 1/12 standard depth; wash-fastness; and rubbing fastness. This enables the dyer to select dyes with appropriate fastness characteristics for their purpose (linked to buyers’ specifications). This is the expected minimum data, though other fastness data would be of benefit to the dyer. Percentage exhaustion and percentage fixation of each dye under standard dyeing conditions. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS): these provide workers with details of the proper procedures for handling or working with particular substances. • When buying dyes and selecting recipes many dyers and dye house managers focus on the cost of the dyes and select less expensive dyes. However, this may be a false economy because using cheaper dyes may increase the dyeing time or reduce the quality of the dyeing, leading to the need to re-shade and re-dye, and ultimately losing credibility with buyers. Full economic costing should therefore be used when calculating the cost of dyeing not just the cost of the dye. This means that cost calculations should include: Man power - salaries including laboratory and factory floor staff Energy - for heating water, operating machinery, pumping water, lighting and cooling the factory Water - cost of purifying ground water Dyes Other chemical inputs, e.g. Dyeing auxiliaries Fabric Any penalties imposed by textile buyers for delayed delivery of goods Cost of effluent treatment Costs associated with re-shading / re-dyeing Costs associated with testing/analysis Cost of depreciation
  • 28. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report VAT DYES Vat dyes constitute a very important class of dyes for dyeing cotton fabrics. Features of Vat Dyes • Mainly applied on celluloses • Insoluble in water • Anionic in nature • Two or more reducible Keto (=C=O) groups are present • Vat dyes, although insoluble in water can be reduced in dyeing, to water soluble leuco compounds, which successfully dye the fibre. The leuco form is then oxidised back on the fibre back into the original insoluble dye which is trapped inside fiber. • Require great care during application • Have the highest standard to all-round fastness • Vat dyes have a very high fastness to washing. • Have high light fastness • Have good chlorine fastness. • Provide a wide range of shades from yellow to black. • Difficult to achieve bright shades. • Expensive • Used on high quality shirting, towelling, curtains and furnishings. Types of Vat Dyes • Strong Alkali Dyes • Weak Alkali Dyes Strong Alkali Dyes Vat dyes belonging to this class give maximum color value in the presence of high concentrations of NaOH (i.e 6g/l). Weak Alkali Dyes Vat dyes belonging to this class give maximum color value in the presence of less amount of NaOH (i.e 2g/l).
  • 29. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Controlling Parameters for Vat Dyes • Time • Temperature • Ph (alkaline) • Reducing agent (sodium dithionite) • Electrolyte • Oxidizing agent (H2O2) • Soaping Application of Vat Dyes Application of vat dyes consists essentially of four stages. VATTING OXIDATION IMPREGNATION SOAPING Vatting To prepare the leuco form, the vat dye is pasted with warm water, often containing a suitable wetting agent, reduced by Sodium Dithionite solution, made alkaline with sodium hydroxide. The amount of sodium dithionite required for reduction is influenced by the number of carbonyl groups in each dye molecule. In practice this theoretical amount is well exceeded to allow for any oxidation which may arise through air dissolved in the dye liquor.
  • 30. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report The amount of sodium hydroxide required also depends upon the number of carbonyl groups. Vatting requires close control because a number of undesirable effects can occur. If there is insufficient alkali, the leuco may be subject to undesirable molecular rearrangements. Careful control o temperature is also important. If the temperature is too low reduction may be incomplete. And if too high, the reducing agent may react with dye in another way. Moreover, some conditions promote the loss of halogen atoms from those vat dyes which contain them. Thus for a given vat dye, there are well defined conditions of temperature, ph concentration of the reducing agent. Impregnation The leuco dye, once formed, is thus applied from a solution containing excess of alkali and excess of reducing agent. In many cases, sodium chloride is also present. The leuco form is anionic. Leuco dyes are, therefore, similar to direct dyes in that anions are absorbed by the cellulosic fibres. However the concentration of electrolyte in the dye bath is particularly high and consequently the adsorption of dye is often rapid. On the other hand migration is often slow. As with the application of direct dyes, electrolytes facilitate the approach of the leuco dye anions to the negatively charged cellulosics fibers, so that non-ionic forces of interaction becomes operative. Oxidation Once the leuco form of the dye has been adsorbed, it is oxidised to the parent vat dye. In many instances, atmospheric oxygen is sufficient. However, some leuco forms are more difficult to oxidize and oxidizing agents such as potassium dichromate or hydrogen peroxide are required. Oxidizing agent may also be needed where the fibres are densely packed. Soaping After oxidation of the leuco form, the fibers are treated with boiling soap or detergent solution. Soaping has a two fold function • It removes vat dye particles adhering to the surface of the fibres • Modifies the shade of the dye On soaping, larger, better defined crystals of dye are formed within the fibers, and indeed their lattice structure may be altered.
  • 31. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Disperse Dyes The disperse dyes are so named because these are almost insoluble in water and hence used as finely divided aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes can be applied to Nylon, Cellulose Acetate, Acrylics and occasionally on other fibers. Disperse dyes are the only class generally accepted for dyeing of polyester and cellulose acetate. But the major consumption is for dyeing of polyester. Classification Of Disperse Dyes The two most important types of disperse dyes are MONOAZO and ANTHRAQUINONE based dyes. Other structural type of disperse dyes include DIAZO NITRODIPHENYL METHANE STRYL BENZODIFURANONE QUINOPHTHALONE Developmental work on disperse dyes is going on, and new products and structures are frequently being introduced. Disperse dyes are non-ionic in nature which account for their low solubility in the water. However they do contain some polar groups which account for their solubility of the order of 0.2-2 %. These dyes are called as disperse because they are made into dispersion and then applied on the fibre. Characteristics Of Disperse Dyes Non-ionic in nature Insoluble in water Possess small dye molecule Fastness Properties Of Disperse Dyes Fair to excellent light fastness Some colour change possible in hot pressing Stains wool badly
  • 32. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Perspiration fastness is good Crocking fastness is good Fastness to sea water is good Excellent washing fastness Nature of Attachment of Disperse Dyes Mode of attachment of the dyes is “a Solution of Solid into Solid”. This theory explains that the disperse dye molecule is simply dissolved by the hydrophobic fibre. The dye distributes itself between the fibre and the dye bath in direct proportion to its solubility in these two phases. The resulting equilibrium absorption isotherm should be linear up to the limit of the dye solubility in either the dye bath or the fibre. Factors that effect “Rate of Dyeing” The rate of dyeing primarily depends upon the rate of diffusion of the disperse dyes into the amorphous regions of the fibers. Factors affecting the rate of dyeing are; Fiber morphology (nature of the amorphous regions, degree of available openings) Molecular size of the disperse dye Degree of hydrophobicity of the fibre (degree of dye solubility in fiber) Temperature in dyeing Use of dyeing assistants (dye carriers, swelling agent) Methods of Creating Opening For the fixation of disperse dyes, it is necessary to create opening in fibre structure. Opening can be created by following methods; With the help of Carriers HT-Dyeing Thermo fixation process Carriers Dye carriers are small hydrophobic organic compounds. Carriers increase significantly the rate of dyeing of hydrophobic fibers and are used mainly for dyeing polyester and to some extent on triacetate. Normally the use of carrier is not feasible as it is;
  • 33. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Expensive Toxic in nature Removing carrier by additional process Water repellent Bad smell HT-Dyeing High temperature dying is usually done for one hour and the temperature ranges from 125-130oC. Above 100oC, the swelling of fibre enhances and therefore more penetration of dye molecule inside the fiber results. Thermo fixation Process In continuous dyeing millions of polyester-cotton are processed annually by thermo fixation process. The disperse dye is padded onto the fabric. The fabric is passed through IR-predrying section and then through intermediate drying section. The purpose is just to dry the fabric. The fixation of the dyestuff is done in curing chambers of the thermosoling machine for 90 sec at temperature of 180-220oC.
  • 34. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Sulphur Dyes Sulphur dyes are compounds prepared by heating various nitrogenous organic materials with sulphur, Sodium sulphide, sodium polysulphide or other sulphurizing agents. These chemicals are described as countering thiazole, thiazone and thiantherene rings with polysulphide linkages. Characteristics of Sulphur Dyes Anionic in nature Dissolved in alkaline solution Moderate to good fastness properties Good washing fastness Provide fair to good chlorine bleach fastness. Provide dull colours Very cheaper than other classes of dyes Different types of auxiliaries are used in sulphur dyeing process. The main are as follows; Reducing Agent----------Sodium Sulphide Oxidation agent----------Hydrogen peroxide Solubilizing agent-------NaOH Application of Sulphur Dyes Sulphur dyes are applied to the cellulosic fabrics in the same way as vat dyes are applied. Sulphur dyes are water insoluble substances. So these are brought into soluble form for dyeing. Sulphur dyes are solubilized using sodium sulphide. In solubilized form they become substantive to cellulosic fibers and hence can be applied by using padder. Application on fabric requires relatively strong dye bath. After application, the dyes are reoxidized in and on the fiber back to original insoluble dye. Since little is known about the constitution of sulphur dyes, they are usually classified according to the chemistry of their starting materials and in accordance with colour. On the basis of solubility we can classified these into three classes;
  • 35. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Water insoluble sulphur dyes Ready to use liquid formulations-leuco sulphur dyes Water insoluble “bunte salts” solubilized sulphur dyes Sulphur Black It is the most important member of the sulphur group. This is because of ease of preparation, cheap dyeing and fastness properties. Full black shades are obtained on cotton by air oxidation after dyeing from sodium sulphide bath. It is remarkably fast to light, acids, alkalis, scouring and milling. Disadvantages of Sulphur Dyes Sensitive to chlorine bleaches Poor fastness to bleaching agents Very toxic in nature Bronzing: if dye does not penetrate inside the fiber perfectly and remains on the surface of the fabric then surface of the fabric appears shiny. Tendering: if the dyes fabric is not stored in neutral conditions, then there are chances of the formation of sulphuric acid because the fibers absorb moisture from air. Hence strength of the fabric is weakened.
  • 36. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report DYEING FLOOR Machines on Dyeing Floor LINE # 1 Pad Thermosol Manufacturer Monforts (Germany) Working Width 180cm Year of manufacture 2001 Padder Company Kusters (Germany) Pad Steam Manufacturer Benninger (Germany) Working Width 180cm Year of manufacture 2004 LINE # 2 Pad Thermosol Manufacturer Monforts (Germany) Working Width 180cm Year of manufacture 2001 Padder Company Kusters (Germany) Pad Steam Manufacturer Brugman (Holland) Working Width 180cm Year of manufacture 2001
  • 37. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Pad Thermosol Machine There are two pad-thermosol machines in line # 1 and line # 2 installed at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. If we stand in front of the dyeing lab then on our right hand side there is pad dry # 1 and on left hand side there is pad dry #2. Both the machines have similar parts. 1. Entry section a. Batcher unit b. Pull roll system c. J-Scray d. Cloth guiders e. Cooling drums f. PLEVA humidity sensor 2. Kusters padder 3. VTG 4. IR chambers 5. Drying and curing chambers 6. Outlet section Inlet Section Inlet consists of following parts. o Batcher unit o Pull roll system o J-Scray
  • 38. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report o Plaitor o Tensioner rollers o Cooling Drums o PLEVA humidity sensor o Cloth guiders The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/ trolley change. Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250 meters. There are two cooling drums after the scray. Fabric from scray flows from these cooling rollers. Chilled water from chiller is fed through on side of the drums and slightly warm water is collected from the other end and sent back to the chiller. The function of these rollers is to reduce the temperature of the fabric, so that it cannot raise the temperature of trough. Incase of reactive dyes, if temperature of the trough is raised then there are chances that dye will react with OH- of water (Dye Hydrolysis). This exchange of heat may cause LCR problems. Padding Section Main parts included in this section are: • Padder rollers (Kusters Swimming Roll technology) • Trough • Economizer rollers • Feeding nozzles • Level sensor • Chiller • Mixing and dosing station • Hydraulic system The fabric after passing the cooling drums is guided through guide rollers into trough containing the dye liquor to impregnate the fabric.
  • 39. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report According to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff made in the separate mixing station is fed to the trough. Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which the dye liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. There are two dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is fed in the trough due to gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot water or with 2% hydro and caustic. Capacity of the trough is 60L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding temperature of 40o C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling. There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is fed at intervals. There are small feeding nozzles throughout the width of the trough, from which the dye liquor is fed. The purpose of using a number of nozzles is to avoid the problem of concentration variation within the trough. Some times in case of dye liquors having impurities or un-dissolved dyes (especially incase of Vat dyestuff), pieces of fine meshing cloth (Organdi Cloth) at the tied mouth of each nozzle to filter the dye liquor. There is mechanism for the lowering and raising of the trough. The trough can be lowered for washing purposes. There is a drain pipe attached to the trough to drain the exhausted liquor. The fabric to be dyed is stitched with the leading cloth and the leading fabric is passed the trough. After that the trough is filled with dyestuff up to 55 to 60 liter. There are four economizer rollers (covered with soft rubber) in the trough to provide under liquor squeezing of the fabric. The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur. Kusters padder (installed at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills) is the best solution for the LCR problem. The
  • 40. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report center pressure at the padder is hydraulic while the pressure at the shafts of the padder rollers is pneumatic. There is a hydraulic system connected to the padder to provide the pressurized oil for the pressure in the padder roller. There is a heat exchanger in the hydraulic system. Chilled water from chiller exchanges heat with the warm oil in the hydraulic system. This is to cool down the temperature of the hydraulic oil so that its viscosity may not change and hence provide even pressure across padder width and work at maximum efficiency. A circulation pump then feeds it to the padder rollers. There are three knobs at the named as L, C and R to adjust the pressure at left, center and right respectively. Central pressure is provided by the management and the operator adjusts the pressure of left and center
  • 41. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report accordingly so that no LCR problem is seen in the dyed fabric. This pressure adjustment is called as tuning. A graph is provided in the panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides of padder with respect to central pressure. But this is not definite because the fabric may have varying absorbency in LCR. So tuning is done to avoid this problem. Mechanism of Kusters swimming rollers It is based on a mechanism where the roller floats on a hydraulic cushion. Oil pressure applied internally over the full width of the bowl counters the deflection of the outer shell. The oil pressure is directed towards the mangle nip and the oil occupies one half of the space inside the bowl. There is a danger that the deflecting internal mandrel will foul the internal surface of the swimming roller. A graph is therefore supplied with each machine, showing the permitted settings of air pressure to the bowl shafts and the internal oil pressure. The outer boundaries of the polygon must not be breached; otherwise there is a danger of mechanical damage The graph is specified to that particular machine and, although it is located on the control panel of that machine for all to see, over a period of
  • 42. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report time it tends to become contaminated with dirty oil and dyestuff, rendering it almost illegible. It is thus a wise precaution to keep another copy. The operation of the hydraulic chamber and the bearing pressure can deflect every S roller positively or negatively, or allow the flexible line of a conventional roller to be followed whilst applying even pressure. For example, if we have fixed the central pressure at 2 bar and then we adjust the left and right pressure by following the graph provided at panel. Then initial running of the fabric is done and fabric is checked for LCR variation at the exit of the machine. If there is no difference in LCR then it is ok. But if LCR problem is occurring then tuning of the left and right pressure must be done. The Kusters padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup should be 60 to 80% (depending upon the shade depth and quality). VTG Section It consists of vertically placed guide roller. Their purpose is to give aeration to fabric to some extent and to give reasonable penetration time of the dye into fabric. Also these rollers are Teflon coated to avoid stains on the fabric due to rusting and stickiness of chemicals. If these rollers are not placed in the flow of fabric and directly sent to IR chambers, the dye will remain at the surface of the fibers and will not be present at the center of the fibers. So migration problems and poor wash fastness will be resulted.
  • 43. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report
  • 44. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report I.R Chambers There are two IR chambers in each pad thermosol machine at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. These chambers help in the pre-drying of the padded fabric so that dye migration chances become negligible in subsequent processes. About 60-70 % of the moisture is removed I.R have more penetration power than an ordinary dryer and can evaporate water molecules from the inner core of fiber without coming out on surface. Thus in this way evaporation of water is done from inner side of fabric without coming out on the surface and thus die will remain inside the fiber. Drying is carried out at temperatures of 1000o C. Heating System for IR Chambers I.R chambers at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills are gas fired. Air is sucked through atmosphere with the help of blower and is filtered. There is damper in the flow of air, which will control the vibration of this equipment. After damper, there is a butterfly valve, which regulates flow of air, and then ahead of it solenoid valve is present which indicates the air pressure by giving signal on the panel. Gas is carried through supply mains. The gas is filtered first and then ahead of filter there is a gauge which is showing pressure of gas in mbar. At this point pressure is 10 mbar. Then there is a pressure reducing valve,
  • 45. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report which reduces pressure which indicates on next gauge. At this point the pressure to 80 mbar then again pressure reducing valve reduces pressure from 80 mbar to 60 mbar. Then after this gauge there is a pair of solenoid valve which regulates the flow of fuel gas. There is an LPG vaporizer for vaporizing the LPG, incase LPG is being used as fuel gas. Air and gas are mixed in MAXON mixing tube in a proper ratio. Air and gas are mixed in a ratio of 4/1. For proper mixing of the air and gas swill plates are present in mixing tube which mixed the gas and air properly. Then this gas air mixture is carried to the I.R chamber through main duct, where it is further divided into six parts i.e. three on each side of an I.R chamber. The gas-air mixture enters into the core of the heater from one side. An electric spark plug is on the other side of the heater for ignition. There are two thick ceramic plates in the heater and between the plates there is a narrow slit. The flame ejects through the narrow slit and also heats the ceramic plates. Ceramic plates radiate IR energy which is then used up in the evaporation of the water at a very high speed. The pressure of gas air mixture at burning point is 12 mbar. When this pressure reduces less then 10 mbar then the burner will automatically trip. The temperature range of I.R. chamber is 750ºC – 1200ºC. The burnt gases and water vapors are exhausted through rectangular exhaust holes in the roof of the IR-chamber. There is an exhaust pipe connected to the roof of IR chamber which takes away these gases and vapors. There is one exhaust fan to exhaust the gases from both IR- dryers. Drying and Curing Chambers There are three drying chambers and two curing chambers in both Pad- Thermosol machines (at line # 1 and line # 2) in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. These chambers are having the same structure but vary in Cloth content and temperatures inside the chambers. Drying is performed at temperatures ranging from 100-140 oC, while curing is done at temperatures ranging from 180-230 o C.
  • 46. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Each chamber consists of a series of rollers stacked vertically in a chamber. Fabric enters the chamber at one end and passes from the upper roller to the lower roller, threading in this way trough the chamber to the exit at other end. Hot air is circulated past the open sheets of fabric formed by the alternating pair of upper and lower rollers. This allows the fabric to be dried form both sides ate the same time. The tensions on the fabric are similar to dying cans, the major difference is that fabric-to-metal contact is minimal and water can evaporate from both sides of the fabric simultaneously. At thermosol machine, each chamber can be heated to different temperatures, so this arrangement would allow for lower temperature drying zones followed by higher temperature curing zones. For producing higher temperature inside the chambers there is a radiator in which Therm-Oil is flowing. Besides there is a Circulation Fan (Blower) which sucks air from the atmosphere by centrifugal action and throws it at the radiator. The air becomes hot by exchanging heat with the radiator pipes. This hot air is then circulated in whole chamber through nozzles. Therm-Oil is heated in the Therm-Oil boiler. The hot oil is then fed to the thermosol chamber via supply pipes. The used oil is then sent back to the boiler for further heating. To maintain a constant temperature inside the chamber, we have to control the air circulation rate (through circulation fan), air exhaust rate (through exhaust fan) and the temperature of the oil (through oil circulation pumps). In each chamber there is a dancer for compensating the tension of the fabric. In 2nd and 3rd chamber there is a special roller before the compensator, which is used to shutdown machine if there is problem in the machine i.e. whether the compensator is not working properly or tension is becoming out of order. There is an indicator attached to this roller and it will give signal to the panel when the roller changes its position and machine will shutdown. In 1st chamber, rollers are Teflon coated to avoid sticking of chemicals to the rollers which will affect the fabric.
  • 47. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Also PLEVA humidity sensor is present in each chamber which shows %age humidity within the chamber on the panel. There is a gauge on each dryer which is showing the balance of air inside the chamber. If it is at 0 (neutral), it means air circulation in upper and lower side is same. If positive + , then it means air in upper side is more then lower side and if it is negative- it means air in lower side is more then air in upper portion. However, here the neutral condition is desirable. There is a knob in the machine which is used to adjust the air to be exhausted from the chamber. A Lint Sieve is present on the bottom of chamber above radiator, which filters the air from fluff. This sieve is removed from the chamber at intervals and is cleaned. 1. Feeding section 2. Kusters Padder 3. Wetting unit 4. Thermex hot-flue 5. Measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere) 6. Steam injection unit 7. Outlet section Cooling Drums There are 4 cooling drums at the exit if the fabric from the chambers. These are water circulated from inside. Cool water flows in from one side and slightly hot water exits from the other side. The purpose is to cool down the fabric to normal temperature before plaiting it into trolley or winding it in batch form. Outlet Section
  • 48. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing. Outlet section consists of following main parts: • Pull roll system and J-Scray • Cooling drums • Static charge eliminator • Cloth guiders • Winder Specifications of Pad-Thermosol machine Model: Thermex C - C – C Fabric speed 6 – 120 m/min VTG 12m of fabric Gas air mixer pressure 60-80 mbar Drying chambers 3 Curing chambers 2 Rollers 40 + 40 + 40 = 120 Nominal width 200 cm Working width 180 cm Fabric (48+ 48 + 48) = 144m Width (among transport rollers of dryer) 960mm Diameter of transport rollers 140 mm
  • 49. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Pad-Steam Machine There are two PAD-STEAM machines at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills. • Benninger Pad-Steam (in dyeing line # 1) • Brugman Pad-Steam (in dyeing line # 2) We will discuss now each machine separately. Benninger Pad-Steam Main sections of this machine are • Entry Section • Padding Section • Booster • Steamer • Washing Boxes • Drying Cylinders • Exit Section Inlet Section Inlet consists of following parts. o Batcher unit o Pull roll system o J-Scray o Plaitor o Tensioner rollers o Cloth guiders The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/ trolley change.
  • 50. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250 meters. Padding Section Main parts included in this section are: • Padder rollers (Benninger’s Bicoflex technology) • Trough • Economizer rollers • Feeding nozzles • Level sensor • Mixing and dosing station Benninger Pad-Steam at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is mainly being used for the developing, oxidation and washing of Vat dyestuffs or fixation of the reactive dyestuffs (PDPS route). Fabric is led to the trough with the help of guide rollers. Trough has a capacity of about 40L. There are 3 economizer rollers for under liquor squeezing. The bottom roller in the trough is made up of Stainless steel while the other two are soft rubber coated. According to the lab dip recipe, the chemical solution made in the separate mixing station is fed to the trough.
  • 51. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which the dye liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. The recipe is prepared and fed at cold. For this purpose ice blocks are added to the mixing tanks. There are two dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is fed in the trough due to gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot water or with 2% hydro and caustic. Capacity of the trough is 40L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding temperature of 40o C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling. There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is fed at intervals. There is a rod connected to the feed pipe from the dosing tanks. There are small holes in this rod throughout the length of the padder trough. This rod is connected to the trough and chemicals are fed through it. There is mechanism for the lowering, raising and tilting of the trough. The trough can be lowered for washing purposes or can be drained by moving it in a fixed path. There is also a drain pipe attached to the trough to drain the exhausted liquor. The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur. The BICOFLEX roll consists of a fixed load bearing axle with bearings at each end. Pressure pads are mounted across the full width of the load bearing axle and around its circumference.
  • 52. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Each pressure pad is connected to a compressed air supply to provide individual pressure control against the articulated sleeve. Supported on rollers on top of the air-cushioned rubber pads is the flexible outer sleeve which carries the removable shrunk-fit rubber working sleeve. BICOFLEX rolls can also be retrofitted into existing padders. The BICOFLEX roll ensures a uniform application, even with changing fabric width. It is a convincing, technologically unique solution individual internal pressure zone adjustment over the whole fabric width as well as retracting cushions for avoiding selvedge pressing. Side and end views of the BICOFLEX rollers Benninger’s Bicoflex rollers help in minimizing variation in LCR and lengthwise shade variation. There is pneumatic pressure throughout the width of the padder. Bicoflex roller helps in using various nip profiles.
  • 53. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Nip pressure profiles with a BICOFLEX roller system Booster There is booster installed overhead after the Bicoflex padder. Chemicals can also be applied here onto the fabrics. The construction of the booster padding rollers offers uniform nip, such that it ensures equal and uniform liquor application. Liquor pick up can be adjusted from 70-130%. There is an economizer trough in it which contains the liquor. This trough can be raised or lowered when required. The liquor turnover in the trough is 14l/m. there is a swiveling roller in the trough. Because of the quick liquor turnover, possible errors in the initial filling have almost no effect and deviations over length are avoided. The displacement body can be pneumatically lifted for easy cleaning of the BOOSTER. This is used incase of vat dyeing or Sulphur dyeing for the application of reducing agent or alkali application incase of reactive dyestuff. But during our course of internship at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, booster was not in operation.
  • 54. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Steamer The fabric leaving the padding section r booster section enters into the steamer section. This is a Tight-strand roller steamer. The distance from the booster or the Bicoflex padder is very short to ensure that no air oxidation takes place. 1. Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan for excess steam 2. Section with 25 m fabric content
  • 55. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report 3. Large roller diameter (193 mm) for creaseless fabric run 4. Lifetime lubricated bearings 5. Top rollers individually driven by AC-motors 6. Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control 7. Roof heating 8. Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor distribution 9. Temperature or volume controlled fresh 10.water flow to the water seal 11.Steam conditioning unit 12.Probe to measure the steam condition (below steamer bottom level) 13.Automatic cleaning system (option) The fabric after passing through different guide rollers then comes to the main steaming section. There are three dancer rollers to compensate for the tension in the fabric, one at entry to steamer, one in the middle of the steamer and one at the exit of the steamer. At the exit side there is a water lock which serves as a seal for the steam to exit. This water lock is temperature controlled and also serves to cool down the dyes when necessary. There is an exhaust pipe for condensate in bottom of steamer entry side. In the Steamer, temperature required for the fixation of dyes is given to the fabric. This temperature is achieved by fully saturated steam. This saturated steam is supplied by steam saturator. Prior to entry into the steamer, the steam is saturated in a steam conditioning device. There is a controlled device for controlling the steam entering into the steamer. This helps to avoid loss of energy. Constant saturated steam conditions are the essential prerequisite for perfect dyeings and their reproducibility. Benninger Reacta has an arrangement to control for the humidity in incoming steam through a steam conditioning station.
  • 56. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report This saturator mixes steam and water under pressure. The purpose of using saturated steam is that the chemicals used for developing should not dry on the surface of fabric preventing fabric from stains. Its temperature is kept at 102ºC. The main purpose of steamer is to provide conditions for the fixation of the dyes stuff and chemicals on the fabric and give a proper time for fixation. The steam enters the REACTA dyeing steamer in perfectly saturated condition. The steamer design and the positioning of the steam condition monitoring ensure absolute absence of air in the steamer. Even minimal deviations in steam feed are automatically corrected. Geometry and drive system of the REACTA ensures crease free cloth run. The rollers are with large diameters of 193 mm, and are individually driven by maintenance free AC-motors. Very precise drive control is ensured via load-cell equipped measuring rollers and frequency converters. Tension differences caused by shrinking or stretching of the cloth in the steaming process are equalized immediately. There are steam heated lips (indirectly heated) at the entry of the fabric to steamer. This serves as a seal for the steam and steam cannot escape from this point. The ceiling of the steamer filled with glass wool is also indirectly heated with steam to avoid dropping. The steamer roof is heated; roof and front and back side are well insulated. The water lock at the steamer exit is a critical part of equipment for a successful process. The temperature is controlled via the water feed and low water volume ensures constant process parameters.
  • 57. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report The REACTA Steamer has good access through windows and can be cleaned easily. The Benninger’s steamer at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is mainly used to provide suitable conditions for the continuous fixation of vat, or reactive dyes on cotton and polyester/cotton blends. The operating principle is that the uniformly distributed dyes located mainly at the fiber surface diffuse quickly into the interior of the cotton fibers during treatment for 20 to 120 seconds in saturated steam. Reactive dyes of the low-reactivity classes require treatment for 60 to 90 seconds at 102°C for optimum fixation. Vat dyes require treatment in dry saturated steam at 102 to 105°C. The steam must be completely free from air when fixing the leuco forms of vat dyes.
  • 58. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Washing Boxes After steamer, the fabric is guided to the washing section. The washing section of the Pad-Steam in the line # 2 at Kohinoor Dyeing consists of 9 Extracta washers. The liquor capacity in the washer is 1100L. The EXTRACTA washer is constructed in such a way that the washing process is divided into stages that can be repeated with accuracy. This makes the whole washing process easier to follow it also makes it amenable to calculation of fresh water throughput. In each of the separate washing chambers the dirt or chemical liquor present in the cloth is exchanged 50 to 80% for wash liquor, which is loaded commensurately with dirt and chemicals. Entrainment of the contaminated liquor with this cloth is prevented by the EXTRACTA roller.
  • 59. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report In the next chamber the liquor exchange is repeated but with much lower dirt concentration in the wash liquor. The EXTRACTA washer has the advantage that fresh water throughput can be easily calculated. Minimal fresh water consumption leads to saving in water, effluent and energy costs. Capital investment and operating costs determine the economy of washing machines. The water consumption for a defined washing effect is depending on the type and number of washing compartments. A crease-free fabric run in EXTRACTA washing compartment is guaranteed through • Large guide roll diameters and adapted roll spacing that prevent the fabric from skewing and guarantee crease-free treatment from entry to exit of the range • Computer controlled tension force from 100–500 N with press rolls or, 200–600 N without press rolls • Screw expanders with separate drive • Free running outer bearings with minimal friction on bath rolls (Self-aligning ball-bearings, life-time lubricated, with carbon sliding ring seals) upper rolls (Self-aligning ball-bearings; life-time lubricated, with PTFE labyrinth seals) press rolls (Self-aligning roller-bearings; life-time lubricated, with PTFE labyrinth seals) EXTRACTA washer is equipped with drive control via swiveling compensators and load cells. Intermediate squeezers (pulling/squeezing device) are controlled via swiveling compensator and frequency converter in the next compartment. The upper roll single drive is controlled with a separate frequency converter. For the washers that have a pulling/ squeezing device, the upper roller drive is controlled through a measuring roll with a load cell.
  • 60. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Load cell For the washers without a pulling/ squeezing device, the upper roller drive is controlled through a swiveling compensator of the following compartment. Angle detector of swiveling compensator for drive control There is a counter flow system in all washers. First 4 washers have a separate water supply and are connected to first heat exchanger placed at the drive side of the machine near dosing station. Next 4 washers are connected to a second heat exchanger placed beside. All the washers are equipped with overflow valves, counter flow valves and drain valves. These are all automatically controlled through pneumatic system. Rollers in EXTRACA are extremely rigid and strong and due to the large diameter of the roller, the creasing of the fabric is minimized. Each roller is equipped with a special seal and bearing construction so that no leakage takes place.
  • 61. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report There are stainless steel plates having alternating gates in the bottom of each washer section which provide Counter current partitions for the water flow. Due to the counter current flow, turbulence is enhanced so efficient washing takes place. The fabric is squeezed at the exit of each washer with a squeezing unit. The top roller in squeezing unit is rubber covered while the bottom roller is made up of stainless steel roller. At the exit of the 9th washer there is a high extraction squeezing unit to extract maximum of water. So that minimum energy is consumed in drying cans. Each washer is equipped with temperature sensor, level sensor, steam pressure control, pneumatically operated steam valve. To drive top rollers in each washing unit, there are three AC-motors. There is single cloth threading system in each washer. Each washing compartment has strip rollers installed with top rollers. Each washing compartment is equipped with an intermediate squeezing unit. The module of EXTRACTA in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills is of plain EXTRACA washer of the type E7. The cloth content of each washer is 20m. There are two glass doors in a washer which provide good visibility and accessibility to the fabric. Due to easy accessibility, the machine can be cleaned easily. These glass doors have a special seal so that no leakage takes place.
  • 62. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report First two washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals which are being applied in trough of pad-steam padder. In 3rd and 4th washer oxidation is done if required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is done in 3rd and 4th washer. Further rinsing is carried out in next washers. In 9th washer acetic acid is added to control the pH of the fabric. Drying Drums
  • 63. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report • At the last of Benninger Pad-Steam machine at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, there are three groups of vertically stacked drying cylinders (made by WUMAG texroll) for the purpose of drying out the fabric • Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool cylinders. • First two rollers in the first stack of drying rollers are Teflon coated. Remaining 34 rollers are made up of stainless steel. Steam is passed inside the cylinder through inlet pipe and the surface of the cylinder becomes hot. The condensate is also collected from the point of entrance of steam. There is a trap valves installed on each condensate return pipe to separate the steam from the condensate. Last two drums of the last stack of cans are water circulated from inside to reduce the fabric temperature to normal. The water is fed from one side and is drawn out from other side. • There is a dancer installed after each stack of drying cans to compensate for the tension in the fabric. • There is a steam exhaust hood at the top of the stacks of drying drums to exhaust the steam formed during the drying operation of the fabric. The hood has filling of glass wool and is also steam heated from inside to avoid from any chances of condensation of the steam back on the fabric. There are three exhaust fans installed above the hood to exhaust the steam. • In each stack of drying rollers at Benninger’s pad-steam, there are 6 motor driven cylinders and remaining 6 are driven by pulling force. Outlet Section Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing. Outlet section consists of following main parts: • Pull roll • J-Scray • Static charge eliminator • Cloth guiders • Winder Block diagram of pad steam
  • 64. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Brugman Pad-Steam Main sections of this machine are • Entry Section • Cooling drums • Padding Section • Steamer • Washing Boxes • Drying Cylinders • Exit Section Inlet Section Inlet consists of following parts; o Batcher unit o Pull roll system o J-Scray o Plaitor o Tensioner rollers o Cloth guiders The fabric enters the machine from batcher/trolley or is continuously being fed from Pad-Thermosol machine through guide rollers. The fabric can either be stored for a short duration in the J-Scray incase of batcher/ trolley change. Fabric is pulled by the pull-roll system. Capacity of the scray depends on the quality of the fabric being processed. Light quality like 40 x 40 can be store 600 meters and heavy quality like 7 x 7 can be store about 250 meters.
  • 65. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report There are two cooling drums after the scray. Fabric from scray flows from these cooling rollers. At the Brugman Pad-Steam in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, these rollers are disconnected from water supply so we will not discus them here. Padding Section Main parts included in this section are; • Padder rollers (Kusters Swimming Roll technology) • Trough • Economizer rollers • Feeding nozzles • Level sensor • Chiller • Mixing and dosing station • Hydraulic system The fabric after passing the cooling drums is guided through guide rollers into trough containing the dye liquor to impregnate the fabric. According to the lab dip recipe, the dye stuff made in the separate mixing station is fed to the trough. Mixing station consists of three recipe preparation tanks through which the chemical liquor is pumped in the overhead dosing tanks. There are two dosing tanks. The liquor through the tanks is fed in the trough due to gravity. Line washing is some times done by hot water or with 2% hydro and caustic. Capacity of the trough is 60L. Trough is jacketed from outside. Fresh water from chiller enters from one side to maintain the constant padding temperature of 40o C. Slightly warm water is collected from other side of the trough jacket and is again fed to the chiller for cooling. There is a level sensor attached at one side of the trough and the sensing probe is dipped in the liquor. When the level of the trough is lowered down to a certain level it send signal to PLC and through automatic action the dye liquor is fed in the trough. The liquor level is decreased due to the pickup of the fabric, and hence to avoid the tailing, liquor is fed at intervals.
  • 66. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report There is a rod connected to the feed pipe from the dosing tanks. There are small holes in this rod throughout the length of the padder trough. This rod is connected to the trough and chemicals are fed through it. There is mechanism for the lowering and raising of the trough. The trough can be lowered for washing purposes. There is a drain pipe attached to the trough to drain the exhausted liquor. In Sulphur dyeing (on Pad-Steam-Line # 2), the fabric to be dyed is stitched with the leading cloth and the leading fabric is passed the trough. After that the trough is filled with dyestuff and chemical up to 55 to 60 liter. There are four economizer rollers (covered with soft rubber) in the trough to provide under liquor squeezing of the fabric. The fabric after passing through the trough comes to the nip of the padder rollers. The purpose of the padder rollers is to evenly squeeze out the excess liquor so that LCR problem by not occur. Kusters padder (installed at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills) is the best solution for the LCR problem. The center pressure at the padder is hydraulic while the pressure at the shafts of the padder rollers is pneumatic. There is a hydraulic system connected to the padder to provide the pressurized oil for the pressure in the padder roller. There is a heat exchanger in the hydraulic system. Chilled water from chiller exchanges heat with the warm oil in the hydraulic system. This is to cool down the temperature of the hydraulic oil so that its viscosity may not change and hence provide even pressure across padder width and work at maximum efficiency. A circulation pump then feeds it to the padder rollers.
  • 67. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report There are three knobs at the panel named as L, C and R to adjust the pressure at left, center and right respectively. Central pressure is provided by the management and the operator adjusts the pressure of left and center accordingly so that no LCR problem is seen in the dyed fabric. This pressure adjustment is called as tuning. A graph is provided in the panel which shows that what pressure should be adjusted at left and right sides of padder with respect to central pressure. But this is not definite because the fabric may have varying absorbency in LCR. So tuning is done to avoid this problem. Mechanism of Kusters swimming rollers It is based on a mechanism where the roller floats on a hydraulic cushion. Oil pressure applied internally over the full width of the bowl counters the deflection of the outer shell. The oil pressure is directed towards the mangle nip and the oil occupies one half of the space inside the bowl. There is a danger that the deflecting internal mandrel will foul the internal surface of the swimming roller. A graph is therefore supplied with each machine, showing the permitted settings of air pressure to the bowl shafts and the internal oil pressure.
  • 68. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report The outer boundaries of the polygon must not be breached; otherwise there is a danger of mechanical damage The graph is specified to that particular machine and, although it is located on the control panel of that machine for all to see, over a period of time it tends to become contaminated with dirty oil and dyestuff, rendering it almost illegible. It is thus a wise precaution to keep another copy. The operation of the hydraulic chamber and the bearing pressure can deflect every S roller positively or negatively, or allow the flexible line of a conventional roller to be followed whilst applying even pressure. For example, if we have fixed the central pressure at 2 bar and then we adjust the left and right pressure by following the graph provided at panel. Then initial running of the fabric is done and fabric is checked for LCR variation at the exit of the machine. If there is no difference in LCR then it is ok. But if LCR problem is occurring then tuning of the left and right pressure must be done. The Kusters padder should be adjusted here in such away that pickup should be 60 to 80% (depending upon the shade depth and quality).
  • 69. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Steamer The fabric leaving the padding section enters into the steamer section. This is a Tight-strand roller steamer. There are steam heated lips (indirectly heated) at the entry of the fabric to steamer. This serves as a seal for the steam and steam cannot escape from this point. The ceiling of the steamer filled with glass wool is also indirectly heated with steam to avoid dropping. Brugman Dyeing Steamer is completely insulated by 80mm of insulation material, clad by stainless steel sheets. The fabric after passing through different guide rollers then comes to the main steaming section. There are three dancer rollers to compensate for the tension in the fabric, one at entry to steamer, one in the middle of the steamer and one at the exit of the steamer. At the exit side there is a water lock which serves as a seal for the steam to exit. This water lock is temperature controlled and also serves to cool down the dyes when necessary. There is an exhaust pipe for condensate in bottom of steamer entry side. In the Steamer, temperature required for the fixation of dyes is given to the fabric. This temperature is achieved by fully saturated steam. This saturated steam is supplied by steam saturator. Prior to entry into the
  • 70. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report steamer, the steam is saturated in a steam conditioning device. There is a controlled device for controlling the steam entering into the steamer. This helps to avoid loss of energy. Steam conditioning unit This saturator mixes steam and water under pressure. The purpose of using saturated steam is that the chemicals used for developing should not dry on the surface of fabric preventing fabric from stains. Its temperature is kept at 102ºC. The main purpose of steamer is to provide conditions for the fixation of the dyes stuff and chemicals on the fabric and give a proper time for fixation. Brugman dyeing steamer This is mainly used to provide suitable conditions for the continuous fixation of vat, Sulphur or reactive dyes on cotton and polyester/cotton blends.
  • 71. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report The operating principle is that the uniformly distributed dyes located mainly at the fiber surface diffuse quickly into the interior of the cotton fibers during treatment for 20 to 120 seconds in saturated steam. Reactive dyes of the low-reactivity classes require treatment for 60 to 90 seconds at 102°C for optimum fixation. Vat or Sulphur dyes require treatment in dry saturated steam at 102 to 105°C. The steam must be completely free from air when fixing the leuco forms of vat or Sulphur dyes. Washing Boxes After steamer, the fabric is guided to the washing section. The washing section of the Pad-Steam in the line # 2 at Kohinoor Dyeing consists of 9 Brubo-Matic washers. The liquor capacity in the washer is 1100L. First to four washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals which are being applied in trough of pad steamer. In 5th , 6th washer, oxidation is done if required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is done in 5th , 6th washers. Otherwise soaping is done in 8th washer. In 9th washer acetic acid is added to control the pH of the fabric. There is a counter flow system in all washers. First 4 washers have a separate water supply and are connected to first heat exchanger placed at the drive side of the machine near dosing station. Next 4 washers are connected to a second heat exchanger placed beside. All the washers are equipped with overflow valves, counter flow valves and drain valves. These are all automatically controlled through pneumatic system. Each washer has 25m cloth content. The rollers in the washing unit have a diameter of 200mm. these rollers are ‘foam’ filled from inside (patented rollers by Brugman) and thus are extremely rigid and strong and due to the large diameter of the roller, the creasing of the fabric is minimized. Each roller is equipped with a special seal and bearing construction so that no leakage takes place. The seal is constructed of a flexible mounted seal ring (high polymer composite) and spring loaded SS counter ring. This special seal offers extremely low friction during roller rotation.
  • 72. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report There are stainless steel plates having alternating gates in the bottom of each washer section which provide Counter current partitions for the water flow. Due to the counter current flow, turbulence is enhanced so efficient washing takes place. The fabric is squeezed at the exit of each washer with a squeezing unit of 30kN. The diameter of top rubber covered roller in the squeezing unit is 265mm with a Journal diameter of 60mm. while the diameter f the bottom stainless steel roller in this squeezing unit is 250mm with a Journal diameter of 60mm. At the exit of the 9th washer there is a ‘Unipad’ high extraction squeeze unit of 50N/mm. The diameter of each of rubber covered top roller and stainless steel bottom roller in this squeezing unit has a diameter of 300mm with a journal diameter of 90mm. Each washer is equipped with temperature sensor, level sensor, steam pressure control, pneumatically operated steam valve There is single cloth threading system in each washer. There are two glass doors in a washer which provide good visibility and accessibility to the fabric. Due to easy accessibility, the machine can be cleaned easily. These glass doors have a special seal so that no leakage takes place. Drying Drums • At the last of Brugman Pad-Steam machine at Kohinoor Dyeing Mills, there are three groups of vertically stacked drying cylinders for the purpose of drying out the fabric. The frame of each stack consists of I-beams with interconnections. • The diameter of each cylinder is 800mm. • There are inspection holes and vacuum valves on the sides of the cylinders • Each group has 12 hot cylinders but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool cylinders. • These cylinders are steam circulated from inside. The operation side of a stack has a vertical steam distribution pipe with a T-piece at the upper end. This piece is connected to the steam supply and a safety valve. The distribution pipe has a steam trap at the bottom end. There is a stainless steel flexible steam hose connected to each individual cylinder. This steam hose has a long life. There is a ‘Johnson’ rotary joint through which steam is fed inside the cylinder and the condensate returns. ‘Johnson’ rotary joint is a specially designed joint through which no leakage of steam or
  • 73. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report condensate takes place. The condensate is returned back through condensate-return pipes. • First 4 rollers in the first stack of drying rollers are Teflon coated. But fabric is not being threaded from first two rollers as the surface of these rollers is contaminated with fluff and dyes. Threading is started from lower two Teflon coated rollers. Remaining 32 rollers are made up of stainless steel. Steam is passed inside the cylinder through inlet pipe and the surface of the cylinder becomes hot. The condensate is also collected from the point of entrance of steam. There is a trap valves installed on each condensate return pipe to separate the steam from the condensate. • There is a dancer installed after each stack of drying cans to compensate for the tension in the fabric. • There is a steam exhaust hood at the top of the stacks of drying drums to exhaust the steam formed during the drying operation of the fabric. The hood has filling of glass wool and is also steam heated from inside to avoid from any chances of condensation of the steam back on the fabric. There are three exhaust fans installed above the hood to exhaust the steam. • Each stack of drying rollers at Brugman’s pad-steam is driven by one AC-motor at the drive-side of the machine. Drive mechanism is belt-pulley system. • Last two drums of the last stack of cans are water circulated from inside to reduce the fabric temperature to normal. The water is fed into the cylinder through ‘Johnson’ rotary joint and slightly hot water is also retrieved from the same point. • How much drying is required, depends upon Initial moisture Fabric weight Machine speed Residual moisture • Actual drying capacity depends upon Machine speed Number of active drying cylinders; it can be controlled by shutting-off pairs of drying cylinders Steam supply; can be controlled by measurement of fabric temperature and moisture content or the temperature of the condensate. Outlet Section
  • 74. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Fabric comes out of the machine and is wound to form batcher. The batcher is then sent to the next machine for further processing. Outlet section consists of following main parts: • Pull roll • J-Scray • Static charge eliminator • Cloth guiders • Winder Block diagram of Brugman’s pad steam
  • 75. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report APPLICATION PROCESSES Various methods depending upon type of fabric, type of dyes and their interaction and properties can be applied. In Kohinoor Dyeing Mills following application processes are being used. PDPS PDC PS DYEING OF 100 % COTTON FABRICS At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills; Reactive, Vat or Sulphur dyestuff is applied on 100 % cotton fabrics depending upon customer requirements. Dyeing With Reactive Dyes Pad-Dry-Chemical Pad-Steam method For dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics with reactive dyes first the dyes and alginate solution are padded onto the fabric at the thermosol padder. The fabric is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a temperature ranging from 700-1000 oC. The fabric is then led to the thermosol chambers at the temperature ranging from 110-150 oC. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM, where it is initially padded with the dye fixing agents and auxiliaries (NaCl, Na2CO3, NaOH, Detergent and wetting agent) and then the fabric is led to the steamer where fabric is steamed for 60-90 sec. After that the fabric is washed at the washer first with normal then hot water at 80-95 oC. At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form. PADDING WITH DYE SOLUTION PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL RINSING, SOAPING, NEUTRALIZING STEAMING PADDING WITH FIXATION CHEMICALS FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS
  • 76. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Pad-Dry-Cure method 100 % cotton fabrics can also be dyed with reactive dyes by Pad-Dry-Cure method. For this process, the dyes along with all auxiliary chemicals (NaCl, Na2CO3, NaOH, alginate and wetting agent) are padded onto the fabric at the thermosol padder. The fabric is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a temperature ranging from 700-1000 oC. The fabric is then led to the series of thermosol chambers for drying and fixation of the dyestuff. The drying temperature at the first thermosol chamber can be 120 to 135 oC and that of the last can be 165-170 oC depending upon the fabric quality and type of the dye and shade depth required. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM, where the fabric is not steamed but just washed at the washers first with normal then hot water at 80-95 oC. At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form. PADDING WITH DYES AND CHEMICALS PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE RINSING, SOAPING, NEUTRALIZING CURING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS Dyeing With Vat Dyes For dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics with vat dyes first the dyes, urea and alginate solution are padded onto the fabric at the thermosol padder. The fabric is then led to the IR pre-dryer chamber at a temperature ranging from 700-1000 oC. The fabric is then led to the thermosol chambers at the temperature ranging from 110-150 oC. After that the fabric is guided to the PAD-STEAM, where it is initially padded with the vat dyes developing solution (Sodium Sulphite and Caustic Soda) and then the fabric is led to the steamer where fabric is steamed for 60-90 sec. After that the fabric is led to the washers, where at first the fabric is oxidized with NaOH and H2O2 (H2O2 for dark shades) after that the fabric is washed with normal then hot water at 80-95 oC. At the last washer the fabric is neutralized with acetic acid (along with some buffer). At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form.
  • 77. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report PADDING WITH DYES PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE COLD WASHING STEAMING PADDING DEVELOPING CHEMICALS OXIDATION OF DYESTUFF HOT WASHING NEUTRALIZING FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS Dyeing With Sulphur Dyes Pad-Steam process In this process, the dyes with other additive auxiliaries are padded on the fabric at the Pad-Steam padder. Padding is done at room temperature and pick-up is adjusted about 70-80 %. Fixation of the dyestuff is done in an atmosphere of saturated steam (102oC) at Steamer for 1-2 min. After that the fabric is led to the washers. Initial washers are for cold rinsing. At the forth washer oxidation process is done. Soaping is being done in 5th and 6th washer. 7th washer is for rinsing purposes while neutralization is being done in 8th washer with acetic acid. At last the fabric is dried at the drying cans and then wound on the batcher or stored in pile form. PADDING WITH DYES AND CHEMICALS STEAMING RINSING COLD RINSING, SOAPING, NEUTRALIZING OXIDATION FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS
  • 78. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report DYEING OF POLYESTER/COTTON BLENDED FABRICS At Kohinoor Dyeing Mills; Pigment, Disperse-Reactive or Disperse-Vat dyestuff is applied on PC blended fabrics depending upon customer requirements. Dyeing With Disperse-Reactive Combination Two-bath process is used in Kohinoor Dyeing Mills Ltd. Dyeing of PC blended fabrics is completed in two steps. • Dyeing of Polyester portion • Dyeing of cotton portion Dyeing of Polyester Portion Disperse dyes are used to dye polyester portion. The process would be Pad- Dry-Cure. First the disperse dye is padded along with other auxiliary chemicals (Dispersing agent, Anti-Migrating agent, Anti-Foaming agent, Acetic acid etc.). The fabric is dried at IR Pre-dryers and intermediate drying chambers while fixation of the dyestuff is done in the curing chambers at a temperature of 180-230 oC. After that Reduction-Clearance of the fabric is done at Pad-Steam where RC chemicals are padded at the padder and washing out of the extra chemicals and dyestuff is done in series of washers. PADDING WITH DYES PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE WASHING STEAMING PADDING REDUCTION CLEARANCE CHEMICALS DRYING AT DRYING CANS Fabric back to Pad-Thermosol Entry
  • 79. University College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan Internship Report Dyeing of cotton portion At the second step, the cotton contents are dyed with reactive dyes by using Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam or Pad-Dry-Cure process at the same conditions used for dyeing of 100 % cotton fabrics. PADDING WITH DYE SOLUTION PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL RINSING, SOAPING, NEUTRALIZING STEAMING PADDING WITH FIXATION CHEMICALS FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS PDPS PROCESS PADDING WITH DYES AND CHEMICALS PRE-DRYING AT IR CHAMBERS DRYING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE RINSING, SOAPING, NEUTRALIZING CURING AT THERMOSOL MACHINE FINAL DRYING AT DRYING CANS PDC PROCESS Dyeing With Disperse-Vat Combination Two methods can be employed • One Bath • Two Bath One bath process In the one bath process both disperse and vat dyestuffs are padded onto the fabric at the Pad-Thermosol padder. Fixation of the Disperse dyes is done in