Industrial attachment of Olio apparels ltd (envoy group)

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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF
OLIO APPARELS LTD (ENVOY GROUP).

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Objectives of Internship :
Objective:
The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different departments
in OLIO APPARELS LTD (ENVOY GROUP). A primary textile industry Academic knowledge
is not perfect without practical knowledge.
Specific Objectives:
This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives:
 To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding garments manufacturing as well
as others.
 To define and evaluate the performance of garments manufacturing Department as
well as others.
 To observe the effectiveness of garments manufacturing as well as others.
 To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.
 To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization.
 To know the economic condition of RMG in Bangladesh through Olio apparels Ltd.
 To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text) and
practice (what is really happened).
 To compare the improvement of the present condition of the Olio Apparels Ltd
(Envoy Group). with the previous years.
 To mention the problems that Olio apparels Ltd (Envoy Group). face in the process
of production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions.
 To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the Olio
Apparels Ltd (Envoy Group).

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SUMMERY:
Industrial attachment is an important and essential part of 4 year B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering Course of PRIMEASIA UNIVERSITY. Actually industrial
attachment is the practical experience for every Textile Engineer which is needed
to be familiar not only the industry but also all over the necessary job related to
continue in any industry. During student life a student cannot know about the
practical condition so its badly needed for every student for attain for the industrial
attachment .The Olio apparels ltd (Envoy Group) is truly an excellent industry
from our point of view. All types of modern technology are well arranged here.
Every section in here helps us so much by giving information during our training
period which was unbelievable.
Specially merchandising section with management maintain the buyer managing
System, a vital role for the companies smooth operation and development, We are
so satisfied and lucky student to completed our Industrial Attachment in Envoy
Group. We think this Industrial Attachment will be outstanding helpful in our
future career life.

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PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
Olio apparels ltd. 1/1, North Kamlapur,Motijiheel,Dhaka-1217,bangladesh It is the
largest complex of its kind in South Asia producing high quality garments. Swiss,
Italian, German, and French made manual and computer-controlled machineries
have been installed in each of the divisions to deliver quality textiles, which meet
the demand of European and American customers.
Major portion of turnover of the textile segment are for RMG units. Total fabrics
requirement for the group RMG segment is around 50 million yards per year. To
mention apart from cost advantage, sourcing from own backward linkage ensures
quality of the product as well as lead-time advantage for the RMG segment.
The OLIO APPARELS LTD. RMG division has an annual capacity of 6 million
dozen of RMG unit with a lead time of 90- 120 days. It comprises of 28 companies
with 170 standards production lines and a total covered factory space of 1088000
square feet. The main product of Olio Apparels Ltd. are in both woven and denim
fabrics; such as – pants with imported fabrics from all over the world.

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Company profile:
CORPORATE HEAD QUARTER :
Envoy Tower, 18/E, Lake Circus,
Kalabagan, West Panthapath,
Dhaka - 1205, Bangladesh.
Tel- 880-2-9102583 - 90.
Fax – 880-2-9103128 - 29
ENVOY TOWER

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OVERVIEW ABOUT of OLIO APPARELS LTD:
Mission: We are committed to providing excellence at all levels of production.
OLIO APPERELS LTD. established in 14th june 2003, which means infinite or
unlimited in Bengali, embraces the spirit of global trade. The company is dedicated
to excellence in merchandising, product development, production and logistics. We
have earned a reputation throughout the global apparel industry.
Asone of the foremost factories in Bangladesh for our commitment to quality,
timely delivery and total value. Through our extensive sourcing network, we have
the ability to effectively procure the best materials. Our customers rely on us to
deliver the best quality products and superb service, which enables them to
successfully compete in the emerging market place.
COMPANY NAME : OLIO APPARELS LTD(ENVOY GROUP)
Olio apparels ltd. 1/1, North Kamlapur,Motijiheel,Dhaka-1217
Total Floor Area: 60,000 SFT
Total Worker: 2000 Persons (75% Female & 25% Male)
Total Machineries: 1150 Nos.
Main Production Item: DENIM PANTS, WOVEN PANTS.
Production Capacity: 28,000 to 32,000 DOZENS PER MONTH.
DENIM & WOVEN :28,000 to 32,000 DOZENS PER MONTH DEPENDING
ON STYLE.
Payment terms: confirmed irrevocable letter of credit

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Fire/First Aid Equipment:
TYPE OF EQUIPMENTS TOTAL
First Aid Box 20
Co2 58
ABC Dry Power Fire Extinguisher 114
Foam Fire Extinguisher 02
Gas Mask 32
Fire Bucket 32
Bucket stand 08
Belch 08
Fire Hook 08
Fire Beater 08
Smoke Detector 56
Fire Alarm 08
Gong Bell 08
Hand Gloves 16
Lock cutter 08
Stretcher 04
Manila Rope 04
Fire Hose Cabinet 08
Reserve Water Drum 16
Fire Switch 16
Helmet 16

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OUR MAJOR BUYERS:
BUYER LOGO
Marks & spencer,UK
H&M,SWEDEN
Walmart,USA
Carrefour,france
Tema, Turkey

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Asia,USA
ZARE
GAP
TESCO
DEBENHAMS

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HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGEMENT:
ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

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The objectives of human resource management system activities can be listed as
follows:
 To ensure that the organization apply equal employment opportunities and other
government obligations.
 To conduct job analysis to specify different requirements of jobs in an
organization.
 To identify personnel requirements that led the organization to achieve its
objectives.
 To develop and implement a plan that meet personnel and job requirements.
 To recruit employees needed by the organization in order to achieve its
objectives.
 To select personnel in order to fill vacant positions within an organization.
 To provide orientation and training to the employees.
 To design and implement management and organizational development
programs.
 To design and implement performance appraisal systems to evaluate employee
performance.
 To assist employees in developing career plans.
 To design and implement compensation systems for employees.
 To mediate the relationship between organizations and its units.
 To design systems for discipline and grievance handling.
 To develop employee communication systems.
• To develop employee health and safety programs

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HR DPARTMENT:
Functions of Human Resource Department
A typical Human Resource Department is carries out the following functions:
Manpower Planning
It involves the planning for the future and finding out how many employees will
be needed in the future by the business and what types of skills
should they possess.
It depends on the following factors
 The number of people leaving the job
 The projected growth in sales of the business
 Technological changes
 Productivity level of the workers
Job analysis and Job description
HR Department is also involved in designing the Job analysis and Job description
for the prospective vacancies.
A job analysis is the process used to collect information about the duties,
responsibilities, necessary skills, outcomes, and work environment of a particular
job.
Job descriptions are written statements that describe the:
 duties,
 responsibilities,
 most important contributions and outcomes needed from a position,
 required qualifications of candidates, and
 reporting relationship and co-workers of a particular job.

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Determining wages and salaries
HR Department is also involved in conducting market surveys and determining the
wages and salaries for different position in an organization. These decision may
be taken in consultation with top management and the Finance department.
Recruitment and Selection
One of the most important jobs HR department is to recruit the best people for
the organization. This is of crucial importance as the success of any organization
depend on the quality of its workforce.
Performance Appraisal
Once the employees are recruited , the HR Department has to review their
performance on a regular basis through proper performance appraisals.
Performance appraisal is the process of obtaining, analysing and recording
information about the relative worth of an employee. The focus of the
performance appraisal is measuring and improving the actual performance of the
employee and also the future potential of the employee. Its aim is to measure
what an employee does.
On the basis of performance appraisal the HR Department will set up an action
plan for each employee. If the employees needs any training then he provided
that.
Training and Development
HR department is constantly keeping a watch over the employees of the
organization. In order to improve the efficiency level of the employees they
have go undergo regular trainings and
development programmes. All trainings and development needs are carried out
by this department. Training might include on the job or off the job training.

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Employee welfare and motivation
Happy employees mean a healthy organization. HR Department conducts various
employee welfare activities which might include employees get together, annual
staff parties etc. HR department also reviews organizational policies and its
impact on the motivation of the employees.
Addressing employees grievances
HR department is the link between the workers and the management. Employees
grievances related work environment are usually entertained and resolved by the
HR Department.
Labor management relations
For the smooth operation of any organization, it is crucial to have good labor
management relations. HR department has to ensure that these
relations are cordial. In case of any labor-management conflict the HR
Department will play a vital role in bringing both management parties to the
negotiation table and resolving the issue.
Implementing organizational policies
HR Department has to coordinate with line manager and see that the
organizational policies are being implemented in a proper manner. Disciplinary
action can be initiated against employees who are not following organizational
rules and regulations. All these actions are conceived and implemented by the HR
department.
Dismissal and redundancy
HR Department has to take firm actions against employees who are not following
the organizational code of conduct, rules and regulations. This can result in the
dismissal of the employee.Sometimes, an organization may no more require the
services of an employee. The employee may be made redundant. HR Department
has to see that organizational and government regulations are being followed in
this process.

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ADMINISTRATION DEPARTMENT:
Depending on the sector, the role may also include many of the following:
 using a variety of software packages, such as Microsoft Word, Outlook,
Powerpoint, Excel, Access, etc., to produce correspondence and documents
and maintain presentations, records, spreadsheets and databases;
 devising and maintaining office systems;
 booking rooms and conference facilities;
 using content management systems to maintain and update websites and
internal databases;
 attending meetings, taking minutes and keeping notes;
 managing and maintaining budgets, as well as invoicing;
 liaising with staff in other departments and with external contacts;
 ordering and maintaining stationery and equipment;
 sorting and distributing incoming post and organizing and sending outgoing
post;
 liaising with colleagues and external contacts to book travel and
accommodation;
 organizing and storing paperwork, documents and computer-based
information;
 photocopying and printing various documents, sometimes on behalf of other
colleagues.
Other duties may include:
 recruiting, training and supervising junior staff and delegating work as
required;
 manipulating statistical data;
 arranging both in-house and external events.

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SOCIAL POLICY:
Management Systems Assessment and Certification
The Envoy Gr0up is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal
is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through
education, training, communication and employees involvement.
BSI Group is the world‘s largest certification body. It audits and provides
certification to companies worldwide who implement management systems
standards. BSI also provides a range of training courses regarding implementation
and auditing to the requirements of national and international management systems
standards.
It is independently accredited and delivers assessments for a wide range of
standards and other specifications including:
• ISO 9001 (Quality),
• ISO 14001 (Environment),
• ISO 22222 (Financial Planning),
• ISO 50001 (Energy management systems),
• OHSAS 18001 (Occupational Health and Safety),
• ISO/IEC 27001 (previously BS 7799 for Information Security),
• ISO/IEC 20000 (previously BS 15000 for IT Service Management);
• PAS 99 (Integrated Management),
• BS 25999 (Business Continuity),
• Greenhouse Gas Emissions Verification,
• SA8000 (Social Accountability) and

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FLOW CHART OF GARMENTS MANUFACTURING:
DESIGN
BASIC BLOCK
WORKING PATTERN
SAMPLE MAKING
APPROVED SAMPLE
COSTING
PRODUCTION PATTERN
PATTERN GRADING
MARKER MAKING
FABRIC SPREEDING
CUTTING

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STORTING & BUNDLING
INSPECTION
SEWING
INSPECTION
WASHING
PRESSING & FINISHING
INSPECTION
PACKING
CARTONING
FINAL INSPECTION
SHIPMENT OR DISPATCH

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MACHINE DESCRIPTION:
Production machine description
PATTERN MAKING MACHINE:
1. High speed and accuracy supported by servomotor, straight lead rail and
integrated circuit block.
2. Easy to operate.
3. Compatible with any CAD software.
4. Stable performance with long using lifetime
Marker drawing machine:
LECTRA PLOTTER & DIGITIZER SYSTEM
HARDWARE:
FL-DEGIPLAN 3 A0, FL-LC-FOOT, PLOTTER ALYS 60.
SOFTWARE:
MODARIS (MODE PRO V5R2): FOR PATTERN
DESIGN, GRADING & EDITING
DIAMINO (MARKPACK V5 R2): FOR PRODUCTION MARKER MAKING

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PATTERN CUTTING MACHING:
Brand name: WINDA
Product Description
Pattern Cutting Plotter
Winda series cutting machine is consisted by a fixed table, automatic feed-up
device and operating software. It is widely used in garment, shoes and box-bag
industry, etc. The high quality machine guarantees extreme precision and rapidity.
Features:
•Dual head for drawing and cutting, both head working separately;
•Fully automatic feeding device;
•Cutting material thickness up to 2mm;
•High precision cutting to improve the quality of your product;
•Save cost, save time, save labor force (3~5workers), save energy, save material.

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Sewing Machine Description:
Which are used in sewing section:
1. Plain m/c
2. Over lock m/c
3. Flat lock m/c
4. Kansai m/c
5. Chain stitch m/c
6. Vertical m/c
7. Eyelet hole m/c
8. Two needle m/c
9. Feed of the Arm m/c
10. Zigzag m/c
11. Bar tack m/c
12. Button Holing m/c
13. Button attach m/c
14. Pocket welting or attach m/c
# Description of the Machines Are Bellow:
1.PLAIN MACHINE:
Brand name : JUKI
Properties -
• One needle FIG: plain m/c

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• Two tensioners
• Three guide
• One hook
• Two thread
• One bobbin case
• One magnate guide
Applications -
• Bottom hemming
• Belt top seem stitch
• Belt joint stitch
• Loop tack stitch
• Pocket joint stitch
• Zipper joint
• Flap make
• Flap top stitch
2.FLAT LOCK MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
FIG: flat lock m/c

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Properties:
• 4tensioner
• 3 thread
• Contain a holder
• 2needle
Applications -
• Zigzag stitch
• Knit hemming
• Loop making
3.OVER LOCK SEWING MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Overlook stitching was invented by the MERROW Machine Company in 1881.An
overlook stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging,
hemming or seaming. Usually an overlook sewing machine will cut the edges of
the cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called ‗SERGERS‘), though
some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over
look machines to create finished seams easily and quickly.
Specifications -
• This over lock sewing machine is applicable to cover edging operation of thin,
moderate and thick fabrics. Due to its automatic lubricating device.
• The machine operates perfectly and smoothly at low sewing tension, and perfect
stable stitches even at high speed seaming.
• Suitable for thin, moderate and thick fabrics.
4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE:
BRAND NAME:JUKI

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Fig: 4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE
Properties -
• 5 thread/4 thread/3 thread
• 4tensioner
• 2 knifes (up / down)
• 2 needle for 5 thread
• 1 needle for 3 thread
• 3 lopper for 5 thread
• 2 lopper for 3 thread
Applications -
*side seam
*armhole
*sleeve

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2.BARTACK MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
The high speed bar tacking machine is designed for making reinforced stitching or
various kinds of clothing such as suits/jeans and working clothes and also for eye
let button hole tacking. Tack length can be easily adjusted.
Reduction gear and some mechanism simplified to get improved durability and
reliability.
FIG: Bartack m/c
Applications -
*To created Barack stitches in garments.
Bar tacking is a specialized sewing stitch designed to provide immense tensile
strength to the garment or equipment it is used on. Bar tacking is commonly used
on backpacks, tents, tactical gear, and other heavy wear sewn items where
normally sewn stitches might give way at a crucial moment. In general, bar tacking
is a sign of good quality, although the rest of the product should always be looked
over carefully as well. When a sewing pattern calls for bar tacking, it indicates that
the designer feels that section of the pattern is a critical area that needs extra
reinforcement and following areas it can used.

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• Loop attach
• Fly make
• Pocket side
• Front side
• Back pocketing
• side seam
• In seem
2.KANSAI MACHINE:
Brand name: Kansai special
Kansai sewing machine is suitable for zigzag sewing, embroidery, abutted seam on
light and medium material. It has excellent performance ratio and is conveniently
arranged. It has bobbin winder integrated in the arm cover with in operator‘s view.
It is suitable to sew underwear, corset, waist sections of ladies body suits, and
swim suits.
FIG: Kansai m/c
Properties:
• 2needle
• 4 thread
• 8tensioner
• 21 lopper point(used two lopper depends on distance of stitches)

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Applications -
• Back yoke stitch
• waistband stitch
 Front placket
2.CHAIN STITCH MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped
stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of
surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to
the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC). Handmade chain stitch
embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of
fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams
on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are
used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic ―drawing‖ in thread.
FIG: Chain stitch m/c
Properties -
• 2needle
• 2looper
• 4thread & 4tensioner (back 2/front 2)
Applications -
• Back rise stitch

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• Back yoke stitch
• Top seen ¼ stitch
•Feed off the Arm m/c:
Buyer name: JUKI
FIG: Feed off the arm m/c
Properties -
• 2needle
• 2Lopper
• 4 thread (Lopper 2/needle 2)
• Contains T & Magnate guide
• 3tensioner
Applications -
• Back rise stitch
• Inseam stitch
• Back yoke top seen

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•BUTTON HOLING MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Buttonholes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through, securing one
piece of the fabric to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished
with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some
forms of button, such as a Mandarin button, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a
buttonhole.
Fig: EYE LET BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Properties -
• 2 thread
• 1 needle
• 2tensioner
• Contains bobbin case, hook & knife
Applications -
• To make button hole in garment

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•BUTTON ATTACH MACHINE:
Buyer name: JIKET
• This is a single needle chain stitch button sewing machine which inherits the
excellent sewing capability and hassle; free operation.
• The four hole button sewing mode can be easily switched over to two hole button
sewing.
• Number of stitches and stitching patterns are easily adaptable.
• The machine ensures consistence sewing performances even at maximum speed
1500 rpm.
• The thread trimming mechanism helps to produce beautifully finished seam with
lesser thread consumption.
• Suitable for all kinds of shirts, suits and work uniform.
Fig: BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE WITH AUTO TRIM

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Applications -
• To attach button in garment.
 TWO NEEDLE MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
FIG: Two needle m/c
Application:
This type ofmachines are used for decorative purpose. It is specially used for sew
woven fabric.
 ZIGZAG STITCH MACHINE:
FIG: Zigzag stitch m/c

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BRAND NAME: JUKI
STITCH SYSTEM: STANDERD ZIGZAG
STITCH PATTERN:
MAX. SEWING SPEED : 5000 stitch/ min.
 POCKET WELTING /ATTACH MACHINE :
Brand name:
FIG: Pocket welting m/c
It is specially used for sew pockets in coats , blazer and trouser/pant.
Sewing speed : 1000- 3000 stitch/min
Kind of welts : parallel double welt/ single double welt
Sewing length : min 18 – max 220 mm
Machine head : 2 needle lock stitch machine

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 BLIND STITCH MACHINE:
Brand name: ZUSUN
Fig: BLIND STITCH MACHINE
FEATURES –
 Blind stitch means stitch is not visible on fabric.
 It is formed based on chain stitch ( 1 thread) and lock stitch (2 thread).
 The hem and facing are folded back and caught by the needle.
 In this machine curved needle is used which penetrate straightly in the
fabric.
 Sewing speed of blind stitch is up to 3000 stitch/min.
This machine is used for special purpose. It is used for sew bottom hem.
 METAL DETECTOR MACHINE:
Brand name: BESTA CBS -400- M.A.S
 To detect metal in the accessories.

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RAW MATERIAL & STORE:
Types of Raw Materials:
Fabric: Woven & Denim Fabric
Accessories: Thread, Button, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly,
Hang tag, Main Level, Size level, C/O level, Tag pin, Patch level, Price Ticket,
Button, etc.
Washing Chemical: Necessary raw materials required for stone, Pigment, Acid,
bleach & Enzyme Wash These very according to the order of the buyer
Sources of Raw Materials:
Required raw materials are purchased from following countries through agent:
a. Hong- Kong
b. Taiwan
c. Philippines
d. India
e. Germany
f. Brazil
g. Pakistan
h. South china
Store:
It has big store room within fabric, trimming, accessories, box, readymade
garments, contains difference types materials electrical and machinery accessories.
Mainly it two sections store are:

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Technical Store:
It contains various types electrical, machinery & materials which supply in many
section of garments, such as
Various types of sewing m/c and their parts
Guide Clamp Shuttle carrier
Zipper guide Belt Shuttle
Feed dog Hand glove spring
Folder Knife Bobbin winter
Guard Blade Screw
Lopper Roller covers Patty
Attachments sate Needle Finger
Bobbin Pressure feed Rotary hook
Bobbin case
Fabric &Accessories store:
Standard commercial name of fabrics
There are many types of standard commercial name of fabric i.e. are bellow
Denim, Twill, Rib top, poplin, satin. Sateen, Mesh, Pure coated, Linen, T/C,
Nylon, Micro fabric, Polo pique, Polar fleece, Polyester, Canvas, Corduroy, Single
jersey etc.
FABRIC CONSUMPTION:
L*W=RESULT%2.54%36%FABRIC WIDTH

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FABRIC INSPECTION BEFORE INHOUSE:
Different types of fabric defect are shown on the fabric. These defects will be
overcome by inspection method.
Some defects are given below:
Foreign fiber, hole, slub / knots, stains / dirts, spot, splice, missing yarn, knitting
defect, thick yarn, shading etc.
As Paramount has ventured into making a range of fabric inspection machines
called Check MASTERS. This machine is used to provide the common fabric
defects and inspection methods for checking the fabrics.
FIG: FABRIC DEFECT TEST M/C
The acceptability level for first quality fabric is usually established by mutual
agreement between the buyer and the seller.
INSPECTION METHOD:
The inspection of fabric has two primary functions; first to classify the products
according to the different quality based on the demands of the buyer/market or
client and second to provide the information about the quality being produced.
During the inspection the fabric may be found to contain different defects. The
defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence, position,

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importance, effect on the purpose, consequence in the further process etc., shall be classified and
graded under various systems. During the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to
be examined and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per the required system.
There are two most common types of systems for grading the defects:
• 4 – Point System.
• 10-Point System.
But 4- point system is followed for fabric inspection by making blanket in the ENVOY GROUP
4 – Point system:
It is an inspection method used for the visual checking of fabric quality, faults are scored with
penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the side and significance. The 4-point system, also
called the American Apparel Manufacturers‘ Association (AAMA) point-grading system for
determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department
of Defense in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC.
. Shrinkage test:
Testing time: After dryer or before compacting.
Equipment used: Shrinkage board, shrinkage scale, measurement tape, scissor, washing machine,
detergent.
Lengthwise shrinkage = (-ve) %.
Lengthwise extension = (+ve) %.
Test method: ISO 6330:2000.
Shrinkage tolerance: ±5%.
The fabric is cut according to the shrinkage board. Then the fabric is wahed by washing m/c with
PCLF for 60 min. at 40. Then the shrinkage% is determined by the shrinkage scale.
Note: before inhouse fabric inspection and shrinkage test must be done.

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IN HOUSE CONTROL FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT 

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FLOW CHART OR SEQUENCE OF FABRIC INVENTORY:
Received the Fabric
Inspection
Physical Inventory
Make the Swatch Card
Prepare the Blanket Shade
Head Segregation
Issue Fabric to Cutting

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Fabric accessories
There are many types of fabric accessories are used in garments manufacturing
sectors, which are below-
Thread, Button, Rivet, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag,
Main Level, care level, Twill tape, Velcro tape etc.
FIG: FABRIC ACCESSORIES & TRIMMINGS
THREAD CONSUMPTION:
Total garments quantity*thread quantity% count wise thread quantity = total cone
Others accessories are counted by yards, pcs

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FLOW CHART OR SEQUENCE OF ACCESSORIES INVENTORY:
Received Accessories
Inspection
Physical Inventory
Swatch Making
Swatch Approval from Buyer
Record the Entry
Supply to the Sub-Store
Use to Bulk Production

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PRODUCTION PLANNING, SEQUENCES & OPERATION:
Swatch Making:
Swatch making is more important work garment sector. In line to line m/c to m/c
work continue according to swatch card.
A card which contains garment making fabric and fabrics accessories such as –
threads, buttons, elastics, level, japers e.g. . These types of card are called as
swatch card. E.g. in bellow-
Swatch card contains following items–
• Fabric
• Buttons
• Threads
• Levels
• Hocks
• Elastics
• Zippers , etc.

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GSM check:
Before sample making GSM check should be done.
The procedure for fabric weight test of finished fabric:
M/C used: G.S.M. cutter.
Frequency: Every order.
Procedure: 3 sample pieces are cut with G.S.M. cutter. Find their average wt.
• Gram per square meter (GSM)= Average wt.*100
• Ounce per square meter (oz./yd2)=G.S.M.*0.0296
Performance std.: According to buyer‘s given std.
In case of non-conformity:
• To increase G.S.M.: Reduce width mechanically.
• To decrease G.S.M.: Increase width mechanically

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Sequence of garment manufacturing processes:

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CAD, Pattern & Marker Department:
CAD:
Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of
objects, real or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the
manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD must
convey information, such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances,
according to application-specific conventions.
CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional (2D) space; or
curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional (3D) objects.
Patterns belonging to all models were prepared according to the steps shown
below;
•Main size pattern preparation,
•Grading of main size patterns,
•Different sizes separated by copying nest sizes on transparent pattern papers,
•Cardboard patterns obtained by transferring these transparent patterns on
cardboard.
Two methods were applied to obtain the findings in the research, the manual
method and the CAD method. These were determined separately for the manual
and CAD working method.
Either of the two procedures stated below can be followed to work the model with
the CAD system:
1- Digitizing the main size patterns after preparing them manually,
2- Preparing from the beginning of the main size patterns using CAD.
Two procedures were followed to obtain findings in the research:
The stages and procedures for the manual working method are shown in Table 1.

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The stages and procedures for the CAD working method are shown in Table 2.
** Table1. Stages and procedures for the manual working method
NUM
BER
OF
STAGE
STAGES PROCEDURES
1. Main size pattern preparation A. Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face sewing
places
C. Main size pattern correction
2. Main size pattern checking and
correction
3. Putting necessary allowances on
patterns
A. Production gathering allowances
B. Shrinkage allowances
C. Seam allowances
4. Main size, pattern size setting
5. Size set patterns check and correction A . M easurement check
B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Correction of size set patterns
6. Arrangements prior to marker making A . S eparation of sizes of nested patterns
B. Cutting of patterns on transparent papers
C. Checking of patterns on transparent
papers
D. Correction of patterns on transparent
papers
E. Transferring patterns on transparent
papers to
cardboard
F. Checking the patterns on cardboard
G. Correcting the patterns on cardboard
H. Cutting the patterns on cardboard
7. Marker making and correction F a b ric and rib marker making

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Table 2 Stages and procedures for the CAD system working method.
NUMBER OF STAGE STAGES PROCEDURES
1. Main size pattern preparation A . M a i n s i z e pattern
preparation manually
B. Digitizing main size
patterns
2. Main size pattern checking
and correction
A .Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face
sewing places
C. Main size pattern
correction
3. Putting necessary allowances
on patterns
A. Production gathering
allowances
B. Shrinkage allowances
C. Seam allowances
4. Main size pattern size setting
5. Size set patterns check and
correction
A. Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face
sewing places
C. Correction of size set
patterns
6. Arrangements prior to marker
making
A. Model file preparation
B. Order file preparation
7. Marker making and correction A . F a b r i c a n d rib marker
making
B. Fabric and rib marker check
and correction
8. Marker plotting A . F a b r i c m arker plotting
B. Rib marker plotting

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SEQUENCE OF CAD (Computer aided design) SECTION:
1 Receiving patterns
2 Taking the image of the pattern in CPU by Digitizer
3 Moderizing of all patterns part by the software
4 Patterns grading by software
5 Aligning all sizes of patterns in the marker by the software
6 Completing the marker
7Taking approval from CAM
8 Print the marker by plotter
9 Printed marker is delivered to cutting section

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Pattern:
An ornamental design in a fabric Pattern may be produced either by the
construction of the fabric by applying designs, by other means for printing,
embossing or embroidery.
Marker:
It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments. It gives special instructions for cutting. It can be done
both manually and computerized method.
In computerized method all information‘s are stored in the pre-fashioned data file
and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.
Maker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric spreading should be
done by taking the guideline from maker width.
Points should be considered before maker making:
• Fabric width must be higher than maker width (1/2‖).
• Fabric length must be higher than maker length (1‖+1‖).
• When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be
parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric where
pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to weft / course.
• All the pattern pieces of a garment should be alone the same direction when laid
down on an asymmetric fabric.
• Length of cutting table should be considered.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered.
• For the efficient marker, it is required to ensure the following things:
• One should be easily see the full length.
• To know about the appropriate width.

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• The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the
gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is
increased.
• After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker
length. It also helps to increase maker efficiency.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered.
• For the efficient marker, it is required to ensure the following things:
• One should be easily see the full length.
• To know about the appropriate width.
• The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the
gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is
increased.
• After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker
length. It also helps to increase maker efficiency.
HOW TO MAKE A GARMENT WITH SECTION WISE:
1. Sample section
2. Cutting section
3. Sewing section
4. Washing
5. Finishing section

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*Sample section:
Sample making is one of the most important activities in the garment
manufacturing process. The manufacturer always needs at least a sketch
of the garment, original patterns, specification and the designer’s sample
to make high quality sample garments at the contractor’s factories.
Garments factories are used different name used for different types of
samples. In the sample departments of garment factories different type of
sample are made for different purposes.
TYPES OF SAMPLE
1. Proto Sample
2. Approval Sample
3. Fit Sample
4. Size set Sample
5. Reference Sample
6. Offer Sample
7. Salesman Sample
8. Photo Sample
9. Pre-Production Sample
10. Production sample
11. Shipment Sample
Proto Sample: Proto sample is the initial sample made by the
manufacturer as per as the details of the export order, and send to the
buyer, to check weather the styling of the garment is ok as per the
requirement of the buyer. Proto Sample can be made in alternative fabric
& accessories, which is not with the original fabric and accessories. That
is as per the sketch & space in the production order (P.O) sheet).
Approval sample: The manufacturing must produce sample prior to
communication of the mass scale production of a particular style. The
number of samples required, vary from buyer to buyer. Most of the time

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buyers ask for 3-5 samples from the manufacturer. When constructing
these samples the manufacture’s instruction should be followed.
The original patterns, original sample & the specification are required to
produce these samples. After constructing these samples manufacturer
should send them to the buyer or to the agents to get the approval for the
mass production. There are two main types of approval samples and
they are known as:
 Fit approval samples
 Size series samples.
When an order is placed and confirmed, the manufacturer has to
produce samples for the buyer. The required size of the samples is
generally given by the buyer. If the size of samples is not given the
middle size of the order range is taken as the appropriate size. That is if
an order is given for a range of sizes, then the sample garment is made
from the middle size. The samples produce for the given size or the
middle sizes of the order are known as fit approval samples.
Once fit approval samples are approved by the buyers, request for
samples in all the sizes of the order before the mass production starts.
Then they are in a position to see the quality of the samples of all size of
the order. These samples are known as size series samples. Even if
there is no such request from the buyer, it is batter to produce to size
series samples for use within the factory. Then they can identify the
problem that might occur, when they produce different size in the mass
production.
Fit Sample: Fit Sample is made by the manufacture (exporter) and sends
to the buyer, to check if the fittings of the garments are ok or not as per
the requirement of the Buyer. Unusually the Fit sample is made in
alternative Fabric & accessories & it is made, which ever comes at the
middle of the export order sizes. For example: If the export order sizes
are, S, M&L, the Fit Sample will be in M size.
Size Set Sample: Size set sample contains all the size of the export
order contains sizes small, medium, large size. Then the size set is

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sample will contain all the size, the sample S are made by grading the M
size sample. Alternative fabric & accessories can make this Sample.
PP Sample (Pre-Production sample): original fabric & Accessories make
PP Sample, and this sample is made just before the Bulk production. This
sample represents the original garment to be made in Bulk production.
The buyer checks the PP samples & after the Buyer gives approval on PP
sample, and then only the manufacture goes for bulk production of the
export order. PP sample should include all the colors of the style.
Production Sample: Production Sample is taken from production unit, by
the bulk production is continuing, production sample represents the
original production pieces to be exported to Buyer. Usually the exporter
send production sample to Buyer once only, during the Bulk production,
But in some cases where the export order quantity is large enough for
single style for example incase of Buyer – Wal-Mart,
The production samples were sent three times during the Bulk production.
First Sample sent during 20% to 30% of Bulk production. Second fit
sample during 50% to 60% of Bulk production Third production sample
during 70% to 80% of Bulk Production.
Reference sample: Reference purpose when produce the extra sample is
called reference sample. When we produce the approval sample then we
have to produce an extra sample for reference purposes in the factory,
Reference sample is also called keep sample. After getting the approval
from buyer, the reference sample can be released for mass production.
When releasing the reference sample for mass production all this
comment made by agents and or by the buyer must be attached clearly to
the reference samples. The sample kept in the sample department until
getting the approval from the buyers after inspecting the approval
samples.
Offer Samples: If the factory wants to attract new buyers, they have to be
won by showing samples of garments that the manufacturer can offer. For
this purpose they produce on their own, samples of new designs. These
samples are known as offer samples. The ultimate objective of producing
these offer samples is to attract new buyers to find new markets.

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Shipment Sample: This Sample the manufacture keeps with them,
covering all sizes & colors of the style of garments they exported. It is for
the reference pieces, just to keep record for future reference.
Merchandising chronological processes:-
 -1st pattern (First sample)
 -2nd pattern (Second sample)
 -Approved sample and counter sample (three pace)
 Sales man sample (For sale every chain store can take 20)
 Photo / proto type sample (Original fabric & accessories are made)
 Size set sample
 Pre-production sample (production running in that time merchandiser
take)
 Production sample
 Shipping sample (Before shipping merchandiser takes some sample)
Sketch received from buyer to, manufacturers containing design including
measurement of the style. Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on paper each
and individual part which is called pattern when move with it throughout the whole
manufacturing processes. After getting all the specs the sample is made and then it
tested, inspected and other standard tested method when sample is ok, then it is
sent to buyer for identify the faults of sample and point it. After that it returned to
sample department .after rectify the sample is again sent to buyers. If it is ok, then
start manufacturing processes.

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Flow chart of sample department
Sketch/design
(it is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style
of designed)
Basic block
(Without any allowance)
Working pattern
(To make of garment according to design)
Sample making
(Sample is made by sample man)
Basic manufacturing difference
(Critical path is identify)
Approved sample
(Sample approved by buyer)
Costing
(To esteemed the making charge, trimming, fabric required and profit)
*Cutting Section:
Fabric cutting:
The definition of fabric is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from
lay and spreading accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.

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Production pattern
(To make production pattern for fabric cutting)
Grading
(It is done according to difference size)
Marker making
(To make marker according to various parts of production pattern)
Fabric spreading
(To spread the fabric for cut)
Cutting
(To cut the fabric)
Bundling
(To make the bundle according to various types of garment parts)
Requirements of fabric cutting:
• in cutting
• Precession of cut
• Clean edge
• Infused edge
• Consistency
• Support of the lay
Lay Preparation:
• Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the minusing person.
• Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.

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• Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time, if
any shade change is noticed then use separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for
identification.
• The cutting in charge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as – face-to-face,
face to back, face up, face down, grain line, nap direction during the PP meeting
stage upon the analysis of the garment.
• Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same
lay—the shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also.
Lay Precaution:
• During lying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center
to selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure.
• QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap direction
etc.
• End wastage for lying of fabric shouldn‘t be more than 1 cm.
Bulk Cutting:
• Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned.
• Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts
with deep curves. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of
movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated.
• Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade,
sharpening quality, evenness in sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before
cutting.
• Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and move the
parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting.
• QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon
the detection of defect.

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• Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects
to FM/PM.
• QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has to be
conducted. Checklist should have details of allowances, tolerance included in
pattern, notches and embellishments placement markings details.
• The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6‖ only.
• Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently
required,. This ensures even sharpening along the full length of the knife/blade.
Note: If sharpening of blade is uneven / inconsistent, it would result in uneven
depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too…
• For Band knife cutting, patterns preferably made of tin should be used.
• The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the
w wear and tear on the pattern, due to frequent usage.
Method of fabric cutting:
There are two method of cutting are follow
1. Manual
• Hand operated scissor.
• Manually operated power knife
• Straight knife
• Band knife
• Round knife
• Die knife
• Notcher
• Drill

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2. Computerized
• Knife
• Laser
• water knife
• Plasma torch
Straight knife cutting machines are used in Orient Group. Because it has some
advantages from others which are follows.
• Comparatively cheap
• Can be transferred easily
• Easily operated
• Round corner can cut smooth easily
• Fabric can be cut from any angle
• Directly garments components separated from fabric lays
Calculation for cutting man:
Fabric consumption calculation system:
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called
consumption. We can calculate and determine the consumption of fabric by the
following two system:
i. Marker planning system
ii. Mathematical system
1. Marker Planning System:
In the system mentioned here studying the range of size, following six pcs of six
sizes can be sorted out from size range. As in XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Besides these

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we can choose three pcs of three size or twelve pcs of twelve sizes for our
convenience. It depends on our intelligence and the size range; thereafter paper
pattern can be made by grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet.
Having made the paper pattern it should have to lay each parts of the paper pattern
on a marker paper of similar fabric width. After marking the paper pattern if we
measure marker paper to length wise, we will find an aggregate consumption of six
pcs of garment. If the aggregate is divided by six, we will find a consumption of
one pc garment as such we will find a consumption of one dozen garments from
the above system calculations.
2. Mathematical system:
Whatever is the fabric consumption of a garment or whatever quantity of fabric is
required to produce a garment is measured by mathematical system। Mathematical
system is a system of rough estimation. Consumption of a sample garment or
consumption as per measurement sheet is calculated mathematically by measuring
the area of length and width of each parts of each pcs of garment.
Example:
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Basic Pant:
Fabric width =60‘‘ -1‘‘
½ waist circular =46cm +8(seam allowance) =54cm
Front rise =28cm including WB +8(seam allowance) =36cm
½ thigh circular =36cm+6(seam allowance) = 42cm
Inseam length =82cm +3(seam allowance) =85cm
# Consumption formula = ( ½ waist cir x front rise) x2 + ( ½ thigh cir x inseam
length) x 4÷ 36 ÷ 59 + waste %
= [{( 54x 36)x2}+{(42x85)x4}÷36÷59+5%] cm
= [( 3888+14280) ÷ 6.45÷36÷59+0.05] yds/piece

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= (1.326+0.05) yds/piece
= 1.72 yds/piece
= 1.78 yds/piece
Sticker Tagging:
After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging
is an important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker
is tag on the cutting fabric surface.
Fig: Sticker Tagging for Batching
Numbering:
Sorting out the components according to size and for each size make individual
bundle
Cutting no:3
Bundle no:2
Style no:1700
Quantity:10

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Color:Red
Parts name:Pocket
Size: S M L:8c
Serial no: 145-170=26
Fig: Sorting / Bundling

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Bundling:
After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in
stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is
better to use code number on each pattern.
Bundle card:
The bundle card is most important in the garments section. In export qualify
garments any type of shading and size mistake is not accepted, so it is used.
Because buyer can not accepted any types of shading and size mistake garments.
Bundle number: 08
Company name: ORIENT GROUP
Top : Sample
Color : Dark wash
Style no : 45721
Quantity : 10 pies
Figure of bundle card 26. Understanding the information in a Bundle card
Company name : Bundle card contains name of it manufacturing company.
Color: It contains names of color. Because garment has many types color such as
Red, Black, Yellow, Blue, Green etc.
Style no : Company gives various types of style number. Normally it has five digit
number ex. 45216, 54213, 58746.
Quantity: which amount of pcs of garment contains in a bundle, it is write on the
bundle card. Ex- 10, 12, 14.
When sorting / bundling are complete, all the garment components are sending to
the sewing section.

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*Sewing Section:
Flow chart of sewing section for working process:
Production pattern
(To make pattern for garment)
Grading
(It is done according to difference size)
Marker making
(To make marker)
Fabric spreading
(To spreading the garment for cutting)
Cutting
(To cut the fabric for garment manufacturing)
Bundling
(To bundle the various parts of garment)
Sewing thread inspection:
Thread inspections are able to move 140-160 km speed per hours during into the
needle eye of sewing machine.
strength of thread must be 2-32 due to friction between the threads and parts of
machine.

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Criteria of sewing thread:
the following are the tests done to identify thread construction.
thread count
thread ply
thread number of twist
thread balance
thread tenacity
thread elongation
Sewing Quality Inspection in Sewing section:
After finishing the cutting process the cutting parts come here for sewing. It is
mainly an assembly section in the garments factory. Different parts of the garments
joined together here and attach other accessories like button, zipper make a
complete product.
Quality Control in Sewing Section:
1. Input material checking , 2. Accessories checking, 3. Machine is in well
condition, 4. Thread count check, 5. Needle size checking, 6. Stitching fault
should be checked, 7. Garments measurement check, 8. Seam fault check,
9. Size mistake check , 10. Shade variation within the cloth, 11. Wrong placement
of interlining , 12. Creased or wrinkle appearance control
Defects occur in sewing section and remedies:
Skipped stitch: Some place in the stitch line where the stitch does not formed :
Cause:1. Failure of needle to enter loop at correct time, 2. Needle deflection or
bent needle, 3. Thread loop failure due to incorrect needle size for thread size,
4. Incorrect sewing tension in the needle, 5. Thread loop failure due to incorrect
setting of thread control mechanism, 6. Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot
control.

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Solution:
1.The sewing tension in the needle should be proper. 2. Perfect
needle size for thread size
Needle breakage defect: Scratch on the sewing product by the needle tip when several stitches
are performed and needle is broken during sewing .
Cause:
1. Excessive tension in needle thread
2. Excessive needle heat, groove or eye blocked with melted fabric
3. Thread fraying at needle
4. Thread trapped at thread guide
5. Thread trapping at the base of cone
Solution:
1. The needle has to change immediately. If the scratch on the garments is very big or deep the
product should be rejected.
2. Use stronger thread or adjust tension.
3. Reduce Increase thread guides and reduce disc tension
4. The overhead guide should be directly above cone or the thread package. Also ensure that
thread package shouldn‘t get tilted during off winding.
Uneven (sleeve, armhole): sleeve or armhole edge fold has a measurement. Uneven means when
the measurement is not same in all place. This occur due to careless operating by sewing
operator
Solution: the uneven place seam has to open and again stitch with right measurement.
Main level not in center point: Buyer gives instruction where to place the main level. If it is
placing in the wrong area this is a fault.
Solution: Main level has to attach in the right place.

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Oil mark in garments: Oil mark occur from the sewing machine lubricants and
spot is appeared on the garments.
Cause: During the sewing operation oil can accidentally slick out from the machine
and drop on the fabric and spotted.
Solution: Spot lifter chemical use to remove the oil the mark of the garments. At
first the spot lifting chemical spray on the garments spot then air blown by the
machine. The spot remove.
Side seam not in line: Side seam are not at the side line. It may come forward or
backward.
Cause: If the front and back part of the garments do not cut by correct
measurement or operator make mistake of sewing the seam formation in the side
come forward or backward from the side formation.
Solution: Cutting parts must have right measurement and operator have to be
conscious about that. Sometimes it can recover by stitching again or it can be
reject.
Seam Pucker: After sewing when the fabric is puckered in the seam area. It is the
wrinkle, or corrugation of the sewn fabric running across the seam
Cause:
1. Fabric and / or thread instability
2. Poorly controlled fabric feed
3. Extension in sewing thread
4. Incorrect tension setting
5. Structural jamming or inherent pucker
Solution:
1. Adjust feed timing and fabric control for maximum pulling of the fabric.

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2. Check tension level in the thread, Sew with minimum tension possible. Always
adjust bobbin thread tension first then needle thread tension.
3. Check if the coefficient of friction of the thread with metal is high.
Shade problem: It is the problem appeared when the two parts shade looks
different in the garments
Causes: It is also may be a problem in cutting section where this parts made
numbering mistake.
For the lack of experience or concentration of worker and if different parts are
mixed by worker.
Solution: Shade problem parts are separate and actual parts are attached
Kacha problem: If unexpected parts are shown by the garments from sewing area
then this problem is occurred
Causes: For lack of experience or concentration of worker.
Solution: The unexpected part is cut out precisely.
Stitch line uneven: Stitch line is not straight position, it is displaced from its line.
Cause: This fault is occurred by operator.
Solution: The stitch has to open and again sewing.
Non matching thread: Some times when sewing is done, the garments and the
sewing thread looked shade variation.
Cause: If garments color and sewing thread does not match with color
Solution: The sewing thread must have the same color with the garments. To
ensure that before sewing the thread must check with the garments.

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PROCESS FLOW CHART OF TROUSER SEWING:
Front Rise Over-locking (Left)
Front Rise Over-locking (Right)
Single Fly Over-locking (Left)
Double Fly Down Part Sewing
Double Fly Over-locking (Right)
Pocket Facing Over-locking (Left)
Pocket Facing Over-locking (Right)
Dirt on Back Part at Waist (left)
Dirt on Back Part at Waist (Right)
Back Rise Joining (Sewing)
Back Rise Top Stitching
Side Pocket Facing Attach (Sewing) With Pocket (Left)
Side Pocket Facing Attach (Sewing) With Pocket (Right)
Front Part Attach (Sewing) with Side pocket (at side line)
Front Part Attach (Sewing) with Side pocket (at side line)
Pocket Opening Top Stitch (Right)
Pocket Opening Top Stitch (Left)
Side Pocket Opening two Tacking (back stitch) Left
Side Pocket Opening two Tacking (back stitching) Right
Side pocket (top) Sewing after half folding at Waist Line (left)
Side pocket (top) Sewing after half folding at Waist Line (right)

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Pocket Bag Bottom Sewing (left)
Pocket Bag Bottom Sewing (left)
Pocket Bag Bottom Stitching (left)
Pocket Bag Bottom Stitching (right)
Upper Front Fly (single part) Attach (Sewing) left part
Upper Front Fly (single part) Attach Stitching left part
Top Stitching Line of Zip Fly Position Marking
Zip Sewing (attach) with Upper Fly (single fly)
Zip Stitching with Upper Fly (single fly)
Zip Attach with Right Front (double fly)
Zip Stitch with Right Front (double fly)
Front Rise Attaching with Stitching
Back Pocket Hemming or Rolling
Back Pocket Folding
Back Pocket Ironing
Back Pocket Attach with Stitching
Out Seam Sewing (left)
Out Seam Sewing (right)
Inseam Sewing
Out Seam Stitching (left)
Out Seam Stitching (right)
Zip Bottom Tacking

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Leg Hemming (rolling) left
Leg Hemming (rolling) Right
Loop Over-locking
Loop Ironing
Waist Band Center Back Joining
Main and Size Label Attaching
Waist Band Ironing
Waist Band Lining Ironing
Loop Top Stitching (double stitch)
Waist Band Joining (sewing) with Lining
Waist Band top Stitching
Loop Position Marking
Waist Band and Loop Attaching with Body
Waist Band End (mouth) Closing (left)
Waist Band End (mouth) Closing (right)
Waist Band Top Stitching (including mouth)
Bar-tacking at Loop-end, Pocket Opening, Crotch, etc
Hook Attaching at Waist Band
Inspection
Counting
Delivery to Finishing Section

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An example of basic pant production lay out is given below:
A GARMENT SEWING WITH LINE LAY OUT AND MACHINE
LAYOUT:
PICTURE OF BASIC PANT:
BUYER : Walmart, USA
BACK PART :
1. Back part tuck -> plain machine =1
2. Seam ->overlock = 1
3. Back part ticken -> plain machine= 1
4. Back bond rolling -> plain machine= 1

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5. Back pocket tuck -> plain machine= 1
6. Bond joint -> 2 needle =1
7. Bond rolling -> plain machine= 2
8. Bond tuck -> plain machine= 2
9. Bond top stitch -> plain machine= 2
10. Seam joint tuck -> plain machine=1
11. Back pocket overlock ->overlock machine = 1
12. Back part tuck -> plain machine = 1
FRONT PART:
1. Seam joint -> plain machine = 1
2. Single fly + double fly + zipper ->overlock machine = 1
3. Zipper joint -> 2 needle machine = 1
4. High tuck -> plain machine = 1
5. Fly round -> plain machine =1
6. Double fly joint -> plain machine = 1
7. Pocket seam joint -> plain machine = 1
8. Pocket seam top stitch -> plain machine = 1
9. Pocket seam joint -> plain machine = 1
10. Front pocket tuck -> plain machine = 1
11. Front pocket overlock ->overlock machine = 1

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OUTPUT/ ASSEMBLY :
1. Belt tuck -> plain machine = 2
2. Belt make ->kansai machine = 1
3. Belt top stitch -> plain machine = 1
4. Belt cutting -> vertical machine = 1
5. Belt piping -> plain machine = 1
6. Inseam ->overlock machine = 1
7. Backrise ->overlock machine = 1
8. Sideseam ->overlock machine = 1
9. Loop make -> vertical machine = 1
10. Loop joint -> plain machine = 2
11. Belt joint -> plain machine = 2
12. Mouth tuck -> plain machine = 1
13. Care and size label joint -> plain machine = 1
14. Main and size label -> plain machine = 1
15. Belt tuck -> plain machine = 1
16. Belt hidden stitch -> plain machine = 2
17. Loop tuck -> plain machine = 3
18. Hem/ bottom -> plain machine = 1
19. Bartack ->bartack machine = 1
TOTAL MACHINE = 52

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WASHINGSECTION:
1. Normal wash:
• For 3 or 4 pieces garments
• Softener 100-200 gm.
• Silicone 100-300 gm.
• For denim in case of normal wash any of the desizingand softener step is done.
2. Pigment wash:
o Ionize hits pigments will be catalyzed at 300- 500 gm.
o Water 70 litter.
o 20-30 minutes
o 2 rinse
o 4 types of pigments are used
o Cold water used to dissolve the color
o Machine will start run by using 50 litter water.
o Temp will start run by using 50 litter water.
o 20 to 30 minutes to beat the color
o Machine will start run by using 50 litter water
o Temp will be color brightener are used 100 gm for 2-3 minutes
o 2rinse
o Dryer used to dry
3. Bleach wash
o For denim 2 to 3 pieces
oDesizing agent used 150 gm and anti-stain agent used 200 gm.
o 60 degree temp
o 10 minutes
o 2 rinse
o Enzyme used 150to 200 gm and stone 5 kg
o Time 30 to 40 minutes
o 2 rinse will take 15 to 30 minutes
o Bleach is used 1 kg
o 5to 10 minutes
o to destroy the smell of the bleach hypo is used after bleaching 300 gm for 2 legs
for 1 to 2 minutes
o Next acetic acid is used 100 to 150 gm.

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o 1 rinse
o Softener is used 100 to 200 gm.
o 2 minutes.
o Dryer.
4. Enzyme + stone wash:
• Desizing agent used 150 gm and anti- stain agent used 200 gm.
• Temp 60 degree
• Time 10 minutes
• 2 rinse
• Enzyme used 150 to 200 gm. And stone 5 kg
• Time 30 to 40 minutes
• 2 rinse
• Softener 100-200 gm.
• 2 minutes.
• Dryer
5. Acid wash
• Desizing agent 150 gm and anti-stain 200 gm.
• Tem, 60 degree
• Time 10 minutes
• 2 rinse
• Dryer
Sand blasting and other dry process:
Sand blasting is a mechanical process of faded affect formation on garments fade
form heavy fabrics like denim this process is followed by a wash of dying process.
Aluminum oxide is used for sand blasting. These aluminum oxides are blown at
very high pressure through a gun, the gun has a switch to start and stop flow of
aluminum oxides. Garments to be sand blasted are placed on the bed of closed
chamber. Then the gun is operated by hand, when the switch of the gun is
operated, aluminum oxides from a feeding chamber through pipe and gun starts
blowing. the blowing of aluminum oxides are done on the garments surface , the
area of the garments fabric surface is instantly faded by the flowing action of
aluminum oxide due to frictional effect of aluminum oxide the blow of the
aluminum oxides on the garment fabric surface is controlled at 10 degree to 20

86. Page | 86
degree angle. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading affect and higher the risk
of garments fabric damage.
OTHER DRY PROCESS:
1. Hand rubbing
2. Hand craping
3.Wrinkle
4. Grinding and destroy
5. P. P. spray
6. P. P. sponging
washing Quality Inspection:
Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After
washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.
-Washing technique create new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy,
Blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand
crapping, p.pspoon zing etc. Which is also seems the best touch of garments.
-The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result
the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
-When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
-To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and
market developments.
-Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of
further shrinkage of wash garments.
-Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also
removed due to washing
Quality control in washing section:
1.Shade variation check.
2. Uneven check.

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3. Maintain time schedule for each process.
4. Maintain exact temperature for each process.
Fault occur in washing and remedies:
3. Shade variation:
Shade variation is a common problem in washing process. One garments shade
might be deep and another is light.
Cause: Selection of wrong recipe
4. Lot variation
Solution: If shade is deep then the garments again rewash and if it is light then re-dye
the garments.
5. Wash hole: Before washing if the garments have any hole, it can be
increased during washing process.
Solution: When any hole in the garments appeared, it does not process to washing.
6. Fabric may damage by excessive whickering: If fabric damage by
whickering, to minimize it denim pen is used.
Solution: Mark on the garments where effect to create by the denim pen.
7. Destroying of the fabric: if destroying process done before washing it
can damage the fabric.
Solution: So after washing and before P.P spray destroying is done, and then
washes for a short time. So the garments get the desired effect.
8. Enzyme wash: Excessive enzyme use or excess time can change the
shade.

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Solution: So appropriate amount of enzyme should use to maintain the reaction
time.
9. Uneven problem: Any uneven problem occurs in the garments.
Solution: Denim pen or diamond pencil use to match with the desired shade.
*Finishing Section:
The process by which unwanted crease and crinkle are removed with the view of
increasing smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is called pressing. In
the garments industries it is called ironing. This process plays an important role to
grow attractiveness to the buyers.
Materials used in garment Finishing:
Iron, Master cartoon box, Hanger, Size sticker, Elastic, clip, Poly bag, Inner
cartoon box, Gum taps, Neck board, Full board, Tag pin, Tissue paper, Al pin,
Hand tag, Ball pin, Back board, Blister, etc.
Flow chart of working processes in Finishing Section of orient Group is given
bellow:
Button attach
(To attach button)
Loop cutting
(To cut the loop)
Inline check
(To check inside of a garment)
Top side check

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(To check top side of a garment)
Rivet, button check
(To check rivet, button attach)
Ironing
(To iron the garments)
Get up quality control
(To check all processes of garments making)
Measurement checking
(To measure all parts of the garments for accuracy)
Hand tagging
(To attach hand tag)
Folding / hungering
(To folding/hungering according to buyer requirement)
Shading
(To separate various shade of garments)
Packing
(To pack in the poly bag)
Ready for inspection
(To inspect garment)
Final inspection draw by 1st, 2nd/ 3rdparty
Cartooning
(To keep on cartoon of buyer requirements)

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Cartooning:
Cartooning is very important every production manufacturing company for final
product shipment.
Types of carton:
DEPEND ON PAPER:
1. Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton
2. Duplex Carton
3. Box Carton
DEPEND ON STITCHING :
1. Stitching Carton
2. Non stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or Metal Free Carton
DEPEND ON PLY:
1. 3 Ply Carton
2. 5 Ply Carton
3. 7 Ply Carton
DEPEND ON LINER:
1. Both Side Liner Carton
2. Out Side Liner Carton
DEPEND ON SIZE:
1. Master Carton
2. Inner Carton

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Carton measurement:
FORMULA:
CBM = L*w*H*TOTAL CARTON QUANTITY/1000000
Example:
Here,
Length: 60,
Width: 40,
Height: 40,
Total carton quantity: 5266 pcs
From formula = 60*40*40*5266/1000000
= 505.536 CBM
Finishing Quality Inspection:
This is the final section of the garments industry. Various types of fault check
here. This is the important section where finally the product has to inspect and
solve the defect of the garments.
Quality Control in Finishing Section:
1. Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt, impurities
2. Shading variation check
3. Smooth and unfold in pocket
4. In secured or broken chain or button
5. Wrong fold

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6. Proper shape in garment
7. Properly dried in after pressing
8. Collar closing
Fault occur in finishing section and its remedies:
Ironing problem: Some ironing problem occurred are giving bellow most8.3.1
Shoulder up down: During ironing if the shoulder side is not placed correctly.
Causes: It is also the mistake of the worker.
Remedies: Shoulder placed correctly and ironing again.
Bottom up down: If top and bottom are not placed correctly.
Causes: For the lack of experience or concentration of worker.
Remedies: Bottom and top placed correctly and ironing again.
Puckering: Crease if brought in the fabric and ironing.
Causes: For the lack of concentration of worker if he ironing the garment on the
crease area.
Remedies: Remove the crease from the fabric and ironing again.
Poor folding resulting poor appearance: Due to poor folding the garments
Appearance looks odd or not appreciating.
Solution: The garments should fold properly according to buyers instruction.
Incorrect packing: The packing should do by following instruction from the buyer.
Solution: The product has to pack properly
Size mistake: Different size sign are used in garment and lock pin label.
Causes: It‘s a mistake or lack of concentration of worker.
Solution: Place the lock pin which size are shown in the product.

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Barcode problem: If the main label and hang tag barcode are not similar.
Causes: It‘s a mistake of worker.
Solution: Same barcode of main label and hang tag are placed.
So, final inspection is occurred by 3rd party for buyer requirements.
Final Inspection:
Garments are inspected by AQL. In this system samples are collected inspected by
statistically from the lot size and will decide the lot of garments to be granted or
rejected. AQL is mainly used in final inspection after garment making.
Acceptable quality level (AQL) sample inspection methods have been proven to be
accurate over a long run. However, the quality level of merchandise at destination
is sometimes lower than the per-shipment inspection results. This may be due to
transport, handling, change in environment and/or reliability problems. Buyers are
therefore advised to take this into consideration when deciding the AQL levels.
Defect Classification: The client defines the AQL and the maximum number of
defective goods allowed in the sample size. Defects detected during visual
inspection are usually classified within 3 categories: ―Critical‖, ―Major‖ and
―Minor‖
Critical: likely to result in unsafe condition or contravene mandatory regulation or
reject by import customs.
Major: reduces the usability/function and/or sale of the product or is an obvious
appearance defect.
Minor: doesn‘t reduce the usability/function of the product, but is a defect beyond
the defined quality standard more or less reduces the sale of the products.
An Individual with defect(s) is called defective sample. In the inspection process,
one defective sample is counted one for the most serious defect only no matter how
many defects found in the said sample.

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Clients can specify what points are minor, major or critical in a defect
classification checking-list together with the inspection criteria and product
specification.
For Example: Total garments (lot Size) 1200 garments Sample size (selected for
inspection) 80 garments AQL 2.5 / 4.0If the major defective found is 5 and minor
defective found is 7 the total garments is "Acceptable". If the defective exceed (Above 5
major and 7 Minor), the total garments is Reject / Re-check.
AQL CHART
Category of inspection
FRI
(Final Random inspection)
Sample size level
Normal II
of shipment quantity AQL max.
Lot size 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0 6.5
51-90
*13
+0
8
0
20
1
13
1
13
2
91-150
13
0
32
1
20
1
20
2
20
3
151-280
50
1
32
1
32
2
32
3
32
5
281-500
50
1
50
2
50
3
50
5
50
7
501-1200
80
2
80
3
80
5
80
7
80
10
1201-3200
125
3
125
5
125
7
127
10
125
14
3201-10000
200
5
200
7
200
10
200
14
200
21
10001-35000
315
7
315
10
315
14
315
21
200
21
35001 150000
500
10
500
14
500
21
315
21
200
21
150001 500000
800
4
800
21
500
21
315
21
200
21

95. Page | 95
AQL max = Acceptable Quality level.
i.e.: maximum number of defective sample.
* = Sample Size, + = AQL number
FINAL INSPECTION REPORT:
An example of inspection by TEX ALLIANCE

96. Page | 96
MERCHANDIZING:
The ―Merchandizing‖ is known to the persons specially involved in garments
trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise.
Merchandise means goods that are brought & sold.
The term Merchandizing may be defined as: Person who merchandising the goods,
specifically for exports purposes. Garments merchandising means buying raw
materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level
and exporting the garments within schedule time. From the above definitions, we
can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of
knowledge & skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is technical and
general as well.
FLOW CHART /SEQUENCE OF MERCHANDIZING:
BUYER DEVELOPING
RECIVE ORDER INFORMATION
CONSUMPTION
COSTING
NEGOTIATION WITH BUYER
ORDER RECIVING (L/C RECEIVING)
MATERIAL PURCHASING

97. Page | 97
SAMPLE APPROVING
APPROVAL FOR BULK PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION PLANNING
START BULK PRODUCTIO
LINE INSPECTION
FINAL INSPECTION
DOCUMENT SENDING
PAYMENT RECEIVING FROM BANK

98. Page | 98
Merchandiser is data bus between buyer & seller:
Merchandiser is he or she, who builds up a relationship with the buyer and acts as a
seller. He or she plays a vital role in an organization in a sense that he or she bears
more responsibility than other in regards to execution of an order. The
responsibility which he bears on the job is as follows:
1. He or she represents as a buyer to a factory.
2. He or she represents as a seller to the buyers.
3. He or she inspects quality as a buyer(from the buyer‘s point of view)
4. He or she negotiates a price for the sellers
5. He or she looks at deal from sellers point of view
6. He or she looks into the business to flourish more in the future
7. He or she tries to offer the deal more competitive without
compromising the quality
8. His or her object is to satisfy the buyers to progress more of the
future business
9. His or her aim is to impress the buyer by means of:
Right products, quantities & qualities.
Right time & Honesty.
Function of a merchandiser:
# When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, He or she has to schedule the
functions to execute the order perfectly on time.
The major functions/steps of a merchandiser:
1. Procuring the garments order.
2. Procuring the raw materials.
3. Production of garments.
4. Shipments of garments.
5. Receiving of payment for garments.

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The steps are shown as diagrammatically:

100. Page | 100
Buyer Confirms an order to a Factory:

101. Page | 101
Qualities of a merchandiser:
 Good knowledge about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes,
color fastness, garments production, etc.
 Clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the garments
manufacturing.
 Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection systems & garments
inspection system
 Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the production countries,
duty rates, custom regulation, shipping and banking documentation etc.
 Right consumption knowledge of various goods
 Costing knowledge of raw materials
 Order getting ability
 Sincere& responsible
 Hard worker
Negotiation with buyers:
The most critical work is the procurement of garment export order. Normally
garment export order is found from the potential garment importers called garment
buyer. Anybody wants to collect garments export order, should be able to convince
the buyer. When the buyer is convinced about garment production, garments
quality, garments costing and shipment ability of a garments exporter, he or she
can think about issuing garments export order.
Without clear confidence among buyer& exporter from both sides, may be a risky
business deal. If a garment exporter can continuously deal with only three or four
buyer with buyer‘s satisfaction, it will be sufficient enough to run garment
production & garment export business smoothly round the year.

102. Page | 102
A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur through luck, but by
following a clear process. The process reflects the different levels of knowledge of
the subject of negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at various
stages in the negotiation. The following is an outline of steps essential to effective
negotiation:
COSTING:
Costing of garment is a very necessary and important task. In this factory costing is
carried out by the merchandising dept. Firstly, merchandiser contacts with the
buyer and collects order. Then he is provided a sample from sample section
according to the buyer‘s specification. The sample section also supplies the fabric
consumption. Cost of the fabric is determined according to this consumption. Then
he or she makes the costing of other raw materials, accessories, trimmings etc. He
adds then all the production cost, transport cost, commission (buying house, C & F
agent) and profit.
COMMERCIAL:
LC: Letter of Credit- Once the order is confirmed, buyer‘s bank issues a
Letter of Credit (LC) to the manufactures Bank. With this LC, manufactures can
start procurement of yarn, fabric, accessories etc. necessary for particular order
execution.
• If the LC delayed from buyers end, it will impact on the delivery date and
merchandisers need to follow this up with buyer to get the LC for on time delivery.
Back to Back L/C: To procure the yarn, fabric and accessories, suppliers need to
open another LC for secondary suppliers bank based on the master LC. This
secondary suppliers LC is called back to back LC.
Documentation for shipment:
Packing list
U.D
Commercial invoice

103. Page | 103
Bank account
Bill of Lading
Standard, Measurement spec sheet/Product pack
Standards are provided by the customer and it could get vary from customer to
customer.Merchandisers need to study the standard very carefully.
If any issues with any part of customers standard, this need to be share with
customer before order confirmation.
Each style will be briefed with a product pack and all necessary information will
be mentioned there along with measurement sheet.
Example: If the tolerance limit in measurement specs is too low compare to
production feasibility, merchandisers need to inform this to buyer before order
confirmation and need to settle down the acceptable tolerance limit by both parties.
UD [Utilization declaration]
UD-[Utilization declaration] suppliers need to submit master LC, back to back
LC, bank certificate, BTMA certificate of yarn, Invoice of the yarn to get the UD
from BGMEA/BKMEA. And to get the GSP form A, suppliers need to submit the
UD and other necessary documents to EPB.
This UD is mainly for the yarn procurement to show that the suppliers have
procured the yarn for those particular orders.
Bill of lading:
A bill of lading (sometimes referred to as a BOL, B/L) is a document issued by a
carrier to a shipper, acknowledging that specified goods have been received on
board as cargo for conveyance to a named place for delivery to the consignee who
is usually identified. A through bill of lading involves the use of at least two
different modes of transport from road, rail, air, and sea. The term derives from the
verb ―to lade‖ which means to load a cargo onto a ship or other form of
transportation.

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COMPLIANCE ISSUE:
Compliance:
Compliance means comply something i.e. yield to the wishes another.
The main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labor rights and
facilities according to buyer code of conduct.
Different compliance issues which they are obeyed:
 Personnel policies
 Attendance and leave register card
 Recruitment policy
 Leave and holiday policy
 Their weekly working hour not more than 66 hours including overtime
in a week.
 They have the approved manpower list.
Health & hygiene:
 First aid ensures.
 Medicine registers.
 Maternity and pregnancy register.
 Pure drinking water
 Towel for hand dry.
Safety:
 Safety committee
 Firefighting committee
 Rescue committee
 Broken needle register
 Needle detector
 Fire alarm & switch
 Evacuation plan
 Rubber mats to every iron man.
Welfare:
 Welfare committee
 Day care center
 Canteen facility

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Salary and wages:
 Fix wages in considering minimum wages which is declared by the government.
 Salary and wages given before 7th day of month.
Physical security:
 They have separate cargo entrance area (receiving and unloading) from the front
side.
 They do not keep any partially filled/ completed cartons on the floor at the end of
any working day. They keep it to finished goods store.
Education and training program:
They arrange security training program on regular basis for all employee of the
factory.
Compliance item:
Some example of compliances item are given below:
 First aid box
 Water paper
 Toilet
 Wash basin
 Complain box
 Evacuation plan
 Exhaust fan
 Emergency exit/light/ light set
 Smoke detector
 Fire extinguisher
 Hose cabinet
 Manila rope
 Gas musk

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Conclusion:
Now-a-days Textile field becomes very competitive & the buyer
wants 100% quality product. For this reason it is very important
to know about the latest technologies in textile sector. To
produce a quality product, as a textile engineer I must have a
vast knowledge about the production parameters & how to
produce a high quality product. To accommodate the theoretical
study with technical and practical things industrial training
(Internee) is very important. In my training period I have
observed that OLLIO APPARELS LTD.(ENVOY GROUP).
produce high quality garments and fulfill the special
requirements from the different types of buyers by following
different internationally recommended standard method. In my
training period I have learned many things such as different
types of machines and their functions, techniques of productions
and the management system. In this training period I have also
learned how the desired product is made ready for shipment
from the starting to the end i.e. from merchandising to the
packaging. In this training period I have got an idea about the
responsibility of different departments of the factory. So I think
this industrial training will help me in future.

107. Page | 107
END