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Design & Technology


    The Design Process
RainWalker
Client Profile
 Answer Questions:
      Who?
      What?
      When?
      Where?
       How?
Client Profile
                 The client for this design situation is a young
                 man in his early forties who is small in
                 stature and of light build. He dreams about
                 climbing mountains, bush walking and other
                 vigourous outdoor activities but due to
                 health constraints he instead enjoys regular
                 walks to exercise, aid digestion and pray. He
                 is practical person who is prepared to buy
                 quality products that work well and last but
                 he would purchase them when they are on
                 special as he likes to get value for money. He
                 dresses neatly yet conservatively with much
                 of his clothing purchased from the
                 opportunity shop. He often has difficulty
                 buying clothing because of his body shape
                 and would prefer to dress in natural fabrics
                 rather than synthetics.
Design Brief
    Outline:
    Situation
  Specifications
    Contraints
  Considerations
     Quality
Design Brief
 Situation
 For anyone who walks in the rain it is easy to throw on a coat over what you are wearing and
 venture out. The problem arises when the water accumulates on the front of the coat and runs
 down and saturates the front of your legs. What is required are some waterproof
 pants/leggings/gaiters that are compact, light, quick, easy and safe to put on.

 There are a wide variety of people who could use this product for recreational purposes but I am
 concentrating on the leisure/fitness/pet walkers who want to exercise even if it is raining. The
 product would be used seasonally when it rains and would market between 50 and 150 dollars.


 Specification
 Constraints
 - It needs to be waterproof
 - Durable and hard wearing
 - It is the correct size
 - Keeps legs dry
 - Can be easily and quickly put on and taken off
 - Cost under $150
Design Brief
 Specification
 Considerations
 - The types of material that area available. Taking into account weight, flexibility, waterproofness,
 durability, cost and colours.
 - How to hold the product up using elastic, a belt, clips or draw string.
 - How to make them quick, easy and safe to put on and take off using zips or clips.
 - The products style, shape and colour.
 - The product does not restrict movement and is comfortable to wear.
 - That the design keep as much water off the feet as possible.



 Quality Statement
 The quality of the product will be evident by;
 - Seams that will be sown neatly, straight and uniformly.
 - No extra puncture marks in the fabric.
 - Waterproof tape that is consistently and evenly attached over the seams.
 - The use of quality zips, buckles, straps and snap buttons.
Evaluation Criteria
       Itemize:
        Criteria
        Rating
      Justification
      Production
        Testing
Evaluation Criteria
Image Board

    Sets:
    Mood
   Concepts
    Arena
Image Board
          Wet, cold, refreshing,
          dark, restrictive,
          invigorating, essential,
          hibernating, life giving,
          cyclic, seasonal,
          depressing.
Research

Investigate Different Aspects:
            Materials
       Styles and design
      Tools and processes
        Testing materials
Research
 Fabrics
 To maintain the fabrics waterproofness and breathability the garment needs to be properly
 maintained. As over time the fabrics ability to enable water to bead up and roll off is diminished.
 When the ultra thin treatment that changes the fabrics surface tension the Durable Water Repellency
 (DWR) is gone it allows water to be absorbed through the fabric. And although there is a layer of
 material protecting the breathable membrane its breathability can be reduced by the accumulation of
 dirt or body oils. Therefore regular maintenance is required to maintain its performance.

 The maintenance involves washing the garment in warm water using a pure soap or a specific soap made
 for breathable waterproof fabrics that will also help restore the garments DWR. Or another way to restore
 the garments DWR is by applying heat. This can be done by placing the garment in the dryer on a warm
 setting or by ironing on the lowest steam setting. If due to the age of the garment the DWR is not restored
 then a spray on DWR treatment can be used.

 These waterproof breathable fabrics are very specialised and only used in only a small range of garments
 for outdoor recreation. None of the garments is manufactured in Australia making it difficult to source the
 fabric. A company who repairs outdoor recreation garments, ‘Remote Equipment Repairs’ has a few
 sources to purchase fabric but was only willing to give me one suppliers contact details. It appears form the
 samples that ‘Recreational Fabrics’ supplied that they have a limited range that may be several years old as
 it does not include the more recent fabrics now available on the market.
Research
Design and Styles
The pants vary in;
  ●
    Cut - Tapered or straight legs.
  ●
    Construction - One piece elastic waste, draw cord, buckle or zip and button, waterproof zip or
    storm flap.
  ●
    Features - Pockets, half, three quarter or full side leg zips, reflective tape, adjustable ankle tabs,
    snow gaiters, thigh venting, stretch knee panels, reinforced ankle and seat areas, articulated
    knee, zipped fly.
  ●
    Colour - Mainly grey or black, some navy blue and brown.
  ●
    Style - Depends on application. Generally a looser cut for bush walking and a tighter cut for
    climbing or skiing.




    Pants - Mont            Pants-Swift               Chaps                            Gaiters
    Hydronaut Pro           Gore-Tex                  Oil Cloth                        Gore-Tex
Research
Tools and Processes
The most important process other than ensuring the quality and fit of the of the
garment is to make sure that it is waterproof to keep the wearer dry. Care must be
taken in the manufacturing process not to make any unnecessarily holes in the fabric
that would allow water through. All stitching seams need to be waterproofed after
manufacturing. There are two methods to achieve this. The first is by using a
polyurethane sealer that is applied over the seam and cures over several days. This
sealer can also be thinned down using a solvent and then pressured into the thread
and holes. Or alcohol can be applied to the seam and then the sealer which also
makes it more workable. The second method is using a seam sealing tape. It is
placed over the seam and then heat and pressure is used to melt the glue to adhere
to the fabric . This can be done using a machine to ensure even temperature and
pressure or done using a household iron and a little practice.

The types of zips used are also a factor to consider. Again there seems to be two
alternatives. The first is using a regular zip and covering it with a flap that is held in
place by velcro or snap buttons to make it waterproof. Or by using a waterproof zip
(that does not need a flap to cover it) but which is not as flexible as a regular zip. The
snap buttons can be fastened using a specific machine or a hammer, block of wood
and a little practice. A normal domestic sewing machine can be used to sew the
garment together.
Research
Material Testing
Waterproofness is measured through a hydrostatic head pressure test. Placing a tube over the fabric
or seam then filling it with water until it leaks. The measurement before it leaks is its maximum
hydrostatic head. A hydrostatic head rating of 1000mm is equivalent to rain in 56kmph winds. This is
the minimum requirement in the United Kingdom for a fabric to be called waterproof.

Waterproof fabrics use different methods to make them waterproof. For example the Gore-Tex fabric
uses a microporous membrane with each hole being 20 000 smaller that a drop of water, yet allows
water vapour to pass through. Another fabric Sympatex use a closed hydrophilic membrane that
contains no holes but stiill draws water away from the body through physiochemical process.




     Water vapor passing through the fabric from the     Hydrostatic head pressure test with a water
     inside of the garment while water droplets are      filled tube placed over the seam.
     repelled on the outside.
Design Development

      Document:
          Ideas
      Brainstorming
        Concepts
        Creativity
Design Development
Ribs on legs
to run water
away from
feet


                                                  Knee
                                                  length zip
Chaps with
full length
zip
                                                  Full length
                                                  zip with
Tapered cuff
                                                  cover flap
to run water
off              Waterproof booty to cover foot

                                                  Belt and
                 Flap held down by snap buttons   straps to
Rib on                                            hold up
bottom of                                         leggings
                 Zips covered by flap to keep
coat to run
                 water out
water away
from legs
Design Options

Develop Working Drawings:
         Detailed
        Annotated
Design Option 1
Adjustable quick
release waist
band


Adjustable straps
                      Full length leg zip
                      with snap button
                      fastened cover flap



                       No inside leg
                       seam required




                      Seams sealed
                      with waterproof
                      seam tape
Curved cuffs to run
water away from
feet
Evaluation Criteria

   Assess Each Option:
          Criteria
          Rating
        Explanation
Design Option 1
Evaluation Criteria
Client Feedback
 Discuss Design Options:
         Concept
          Colour
          Shape
         Function
           Cost
          Appeal
Client Feedback
Client
The client had difficulty coming to a decision as he could see the advantages and disadvantages with
all the options. He observed that option 1 had less material, bulk, heat and more freedom around the
groin but he was not sure how the straps would work, how they would feel and ride when walking.
Option 2 did not have those problems but both the designs having no seat or front could only be used in
a limited and specific range of activities. He would not take them bush walking or skiing for example
because you could not safely sit down or fall over without the risk of getting wet. The main difference
between options 3 and 4 is the length of the zips down the legs.


Others
The other people who looked over the different design options had some rather well formed views of
what they would like in a pair of breathable water proof pants. Firstly they did not like zips and the idea
of having to connect the zip together and then zip down the full length of the leg was not appealing at
all. It was enough just to have a zip from the knee down. For them it was simpler to have pull on pants
rather than get tangled in zips and getting frustrated in trying to do them up. They also would prefer an
elastic waist band with a draw string as they thought it would be more comfortable than a buckle and
adjustable straps. They were not concerned about the bulk around the groin area with and options 3
and 4 but they did have reservations about option 1 with the straps and how they would feel walking
and sitting. They agreed that option 3 and 4 would be more multi purpose and versatile because they
had a seat in them. You could use them in the snow for instance.
Prefered Option
  Write Justification:
        Concept
         Colour
         Shape
        Function
          Cost
         Appeal
Prefered Option
Justification
The preferred design is option number 1 as it fulfils all the specifications and achieved the highest
score using the Criteria Grid. The reasons for its choice are listed below:
  ●
    The design eliminated the need for an inside leg seam thus reducing the potential for leaks.
  ●
    The simplicity of the design means that it is quick and easy to put on and take off. All that it
    required is to click the adjustable waist buckle on, join and zip down each leg, cover the zip with
    the flap and fasten the snap buttons. To take it off just reverse the process. This can be done with
    two feet on the ground. Which eliminates the need to try and balance yourself against a wall as you
    try and pull off your wet pants over your shoes (option 3).
  ●
    The materials used; the fabric, buckles, snap buttons, strap, waterproof tape and zips are of the
    same quality of those used in the garments of the leading brands on the market. All that is
    required now is to ensure that the workmanship is of the same standard.
  ●
    With the design finishing at the top of the legs it eliminates the doubling up of material around the
    groin and therefore doesn’t restrict movement or generate excess heat. In design options 3 and 4
    the wearer would add three layers of fabric over their groin; their trousers, coat and waterproof
    pants.
  ●
    The cuffs at the bottom ot the garment are curved over the foot to run the water coming down the
    leg away from the feet in an attempt to keep them as dry as possible.
  ●
    I was originally thinking of using a 2 ply breathable waterproof fabric because it is more pliable
    and compact, lighter and drapes better than the 3 ply fabric but I would have had to attach a
    backing to it to protect the breathable membrane. Instead I settled for the 3 ply breathable
    waterproof fabric which comes with a protective layer already attached.
Production Planning
  Detailed Working Drawing:
            Sizes
             Cuts
           Shapes
           Materials
         Specifications
Prefered Option
Working
Drawing
Production Planning
     Materials List:
         Item
        Material
        Number
         Size
       Cost per...
       Total cost
Production Planning
Materials List
Production Planning
    Production Steps:
           Step
         Process
         Material
        Equipment
         Quality
          Safety
          Time
Production Planning
Production Steps
Production Planning

     Gant Timeline:
    Production schedule
           Task
           Time
Production Planning
Gant Timeline
Production Planning
    Risk Assessment:
     Specific aspect
         Hazards
     Possible injuries
     Rating risk/injury
      Controlling risk
Production Planning
Risk Assessment
Concludes

Pre Production Design Process

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Rain Walker

  • 1. Design & Technology The Design Process
  • 3. Client Profile Answer Questions: Who? What? When? Where? How?
  • 4. Client Profile The client for this design situation is a young man in his early forties who is small in stature and of light build. He dreams about climbing mountains, bush walking and other vigourous outdoor activities but due to health constraints he instead enjoys regular walks to exercise, aid digestion and pray. He is practical person who is prepared to buy quality products that work well and last but he would purchase them when they are on special as he likes to get value for money. He dresses neatly yet conservatively with much of his clothing purchased from the opportunity shop. He often has difficulty buying clothing because of his body shape and would prefer to dress in natural fabrics rather than synthetics.
  • 5. Design Brief Outline: Situation Specifications Contraints Considerations Quality
  • 6. Design Brief Situation For anyone who walks in the rain it is easy to throw on a coat over what you are wearing and venture out. The problem arises when the water accumulates on the front of the coat and runs down and saturates the front of your legs. What is required are some waterproof pants/leggings/gaiters that are compact, light, quick, easy and safe to put on. There are a wide variety of people who could use this product for recreational purposes but I am concentrating on the leisure/fitness/pet walkers who want to exercise even if it is raining. The product would be used seasonally when it rains and would market between 50 and 150 dollars. Specification Constraints - It needs to be waterproof - Durable and hard wearing - It is the correct size - Keeps legs dry - Can be easily and quickly put on and taken off - Cost under $150
  • 7. Design Brief Specification Considerations - The types of material that area available. Taking into account weight, flexibility, waterproofness, durability, cost and colours. - How to hold the product up using elastic, a belt, clips or draw string. - How to make them quick, easy and safe to put on and take off using zips or clips. - The products style, shape and colour. - The product does not restrict movement and is comfortable to wear. - That the design keep as much water off the feet as possible. Quality Statement The quality of the product will be evident by; - Seams that will be sown neatly, straight and uniformly. - No extra puncture marks in the fabric. - Waterproof tape that is consistently and evenly attached over the seams. - The use of quality zips, buckles, straps and snap buttons.
  • 8. Evaluation Criteria Itemize: Criteria Rating Justification Production Testing
  • 10. Image Board Sets: Mood Concepts Arena
  • 11. Image Board Wet, cold, refreshing, dark, restrictive, invigorating, essential, hibernating, life giving, cyclic, seasonal, depressing.
  • 12. Research Investigate Different Aspects: Materials Styles and design Tools and processes Testing materials
  • 13. Research Fabrics To maintain the fabrics waterproofness and breathability the garment needs to be properly maintained. As over time the fabrics ability to enable water to bead up and roll off is diminished. When the ultra thin treatment that changes the fabrics surface tension the Durable Water Repellency (DWR) is gone it allows water to be absorbed through the fabric. And although there is a layer of material protecting the breathable membrane its breathability can be reduced by the accumulation of dirt or body oils. Therefore regular maintenance is required to maintain its performance. The maintenance involves washing the garment in warm water using a pure soap or a specific soap made for breathable waterproof fabrics that will also help restore the garments DWR. Or another way to restore the garments DWR is by applying heat. This can be done by placing the garment in the dryer on a warm setting or by ironing on the lowest steam setting. If due to the age of the garment the DWR is not restored then a spray on DWR treatment can be used. These waterproof breathable fabrics are very specialised and only used in only a small range of garments for outdoor recreation. None of the garments is manufactured in Australia making it difficult to source the fabric. A company who repairs outdoor recreation garments, ‘Remote Equipment Repairs’ has a few sources to purchase fabric but was only willing to give me one suppliers contact details. It appears form the samples that ‘Recreational Fabrics’ supplied that they have a limited range that may be several years old as it does not include the more recent fabrics now available on the market.
  • 14. Research Design and Styles The pants vary in; ● Cut - Tapered or straight legs. ● Construction - One piece elastic waste, draw cord, buckle or zip and button, waterproof zip or storm flap. ● Features - Pockets, half, three quarter or full side leg zips, reflective tape, adjustable ankle tabs, snow gaiters, thigh venting, stretch knee panels, reinforced ankle and seat areas, articulated knee, zipped fly. ● Colour - Mainly grey or black, some navy blue and brown. ● Style - Depends on application. Generally a looser cut for bush walking and a tighter cut for climbing or skiing. Pants - Mont Pants-Swift Chaps Gaiters Hydronaut Pro Gore-Tex Oil Cloth Gore-Tex
  • 15. Research Tools and Processes The most important process other than ensuring the quality and fit of the of the garment is to make sure that it is waterproof to keep the wearer dry. Care must be taken in the manufacturing process not to make any unnecessarily holes in the fabric that would allow water through. All stitching seams need to be waterproofed after manufacturing. There are two methods to achieve this. The first is by using a polyurethane sealer that is applied over the seam and cures over several days. This sealer can also be thinned down using a solvent and then pressured into the thread and holes. Or alcohol can be applied to the seam and then the sealer which also makes it more workable. The second method is using a seam sealing tape. It is placed over the seam and then heat and pressure is used to melt the glue to adhere to the fabric . This can be done using a machine to ensure even temperature and pressure or done using a household iron and a little practice. The types of zips used are also a factor to consider. Again there seems to be two alternatives. The first is using a regular zip and covering it with a flap that is held in place by velcro or snap buttons to make it waterproof. Or by using a waterproof zip (that does not need a flap to cover it) but which is not as flexible as a regular zip. The snap buttons can be fastened using a specific machine or a hammer, block of wood and a little practice. A normal domestic sewing machine can be used to sew the garment together.
  • 16. Research Material Testing Waterproofness is measured through a hydrostatic head pressure test. Placing a tube over the fabric or seam then filling it with water until it leaks. The measurement before it leaks is its maximum hydrostatic head. A hydrostatic head rating of 1000mm is equivalent to rain in 56kmph winds. This is the minimum requirement in the United Kingdom for a fabric to be called waterproof. Waterproof fabrics use different methods to make them waterproof. For example the Gore-Tex fabric uses a microporous membrane with each hole being 20 000 smaller that a drop of water, yet allows water vapour to pass through. Another fabric Sympatex use a closed hydrophilic membrane that contains no holes but stiill draws water away from the body through physiochemical process. Water vapor passing through the fabric from the Hydrostatic head pressure test with a water inside of the garment while water droplets are filled tube placed over the seam. repelled on the outside.
  • 17. Design Development Document: Ideas Brainstorming Concepts Creativity
  • 18. Design Development Ribs on legs to run water away from feet Knee length zip Chaps with full length zip Full length zip with Tapered cuff cover flap to run water off Waterproof booty to cover foot Belt and Flap held down by snap buttons straps to Rib on hold up bottom of leggings Zips covered by flap to keep coat to run water out water away from legs
  • 19. Design Options Develop Working Drawings: Detailed Annotated
  • 20. Design Option 1 Adjustable quick release waist band Adjustable straps Full length leg zip with snap button fastened cover flap No inside leg seam required Seams sealed with waterproof seam tape Curved cuffs to run water away from feet
  • 21. Evaluation Criteria Assess Each Option: Criteria Rating Explanation
  • 23. Client Feedback Discuss Design Options: Concept Colour Shape Function Cost Appeal
  • 24. Client Feedback Client The client had difficulty coming to a decision as he could see the advantages and disadvantages with all the options. He observed that option 1 had less material, bulk, heat and more freedom around the groin but he was not sure how the straps would work, how they would feel and ride when walking. Option 2 did not have those problems but both the designs having no seat or front could only be used in a limited and specific range of activities. He would not take them bush walking or skiing for example because you could not safely sit down or fall over without the risk of getting wet. The main difference between options 3 and 4 is the length of the zips down the legs. Others The other people who looked over the different design options had some rather well formed views of what they would like in a pair of breathable water proof pants. Firstly they did not like zips and the idea of having to connect the zip together and then zip down the full length of the leg was not appealing at all. It was enough just to have a zip from the knee down. For them it was simpler to have pull on pants rather than get tangled in zips and getting frustrated in trying to do them up. They also would prefer an elastic waist band with a draw string as they thought it would be more comfortable than a buckle and adjustable straps. They were not concerned about the bulk around the groin area with and options 3 and 4 but they did have reservations about option 1 with the straps and how they would feel walking and sitting. They agreed that option 3 and 4 would be more multi purpose and versatile because they had a seat in them. You could use them in the snow for instance.
  • 25. Prefered Option Write Justification: Concept Colour Shape Function Cost Appeal
  • 26. Prefered Option Justification The preferred design is option number 1 as it fulfils all the specifications and achieved the highest score using the Criteria Grid. The reasons for its choice are listed below: ● The design eliminated the need for an inside leg seam thus reducing the potential for leaks. ● The simplicity of the design means that it is quick and easy to put on and take off. All that it required is to click the adjustable waist buckle on, join and zip down each leg, cover the zip with the flap and fasten the snap buttons. To take it off just reverse the process. This can be done with two feet on the ground. Which eliminates the need to try and balance yourself against a wall as you try and pull off your wet pants over your shoes (option 3). ● The materials used; the fabric, buckles, snap buttons, strap, waterproof tape and zips are of the same quality of those used in the garments of the leading brands on the market. All that is required now is to ensure that the workmanship is of the same standard. ● With the design finishing at the top of the legs it eliminates the doubling up of material around the groin and therefore doesn’t restrict movement or generate excess heat. In design options 3 and 4 the wearer would add three layers of fabric over their groin; their trousers, coat and waterproof pants. ● The cuffs at the bottom ot the garment are curved over the foot to run the water coming down the leg away from the feet in an attempt to keep them as dry as possible. ● I was originally thinking of using a 2 ply breathable waterproof fabric because it is more pliable and compact, lighter and drapes better than the 3 ply fabric but I would have had to attach a backing to it to protect the breathable membrane. Instead I settled for the 3 ply breathable waterproof fabric which comes with a protective layer already attached.
  • 27. Production Planning Detailed Working Drawing: Sizes Cuts Shapes Materials Specifications
  • 29. Production Planning Materials List: Item Material Number Size Cost per... Total cost
  • 31. Production Planning Production Steps: Step Process Material Equipment Quality Safety Time
  • 33. Production Planning Gant Timeline: Production schedule Task Time
  • 35. Production Planning Risk Assessment: Specific aspect Hazards Possible injuries Rating risk/injury Controlling risk